Would you try making these trays using both options or just one? *and which one??? Also, can you give any tips to our Woodworking Community to make this project easier? Thank you for watching and all of your support as my channel and passion for woodworking grows like crazy every day😍🤩😍
Thx for the explanation on the router bits, this is the kind of stuff I also like to see you do as well as make things, you have such a knack of “teaching” that I believe most people can understand, maybe the Pros among us may feel they know better but often the newbies get forgotten by those masters on other channels
I was surprised when I heard you say 12k subs. This channel is underrated and definitely deserves more! I had to go and check. Ive been a follower for a while and thought you had way more!
Thank you for your very kind comment, the channel is growing quickly thanks to the many wonderful supporters such as yourself, and I am just thankful I get to do this and share my work. Thanks for watching 😊
Winnie, most of the routers that I recently ordered through different EBay sellers arrived. One of the three 90th anniversary Porter Cable 90690 routers that I purchased is somewhat "jumpy" when using a 1/2" spiral cutter with a 1/2" shank when taking a 3/4" deep cut in red oak. I am not sure if this is the same "jumpy" behavior that you are experiencing with your old router. Three causes that I am able to think of that might cause this "jumpy" feeling: 1. The collet may be worn out. This Porter Cable 90690 router is the only one that came with a 1/2" collet, the others came with a 1/4" collet. I used this router's collet in the other routers and did not experience the "jumpy" behavior with the other routers. If the collet in your router is worn out, you may be able to find replacement collets - I found that the router bit manufacturer Amana makes a replacement 1/2" collet for Porter Cable routers, so I ordered two of those to test, rather than buying one of the Chinese made replacement router collets. 2. The collet or collet socket may be packed with sawdust or the router bit may be touching the bottom of the collet socket (if the router bit touches the bottom of the socket when inserted, pull the router bit out of the collet 1/16" to 1/8" so that the router bit seats correctly in the collet). 3. The arbor bearings or the socket that holds the arbor bearings in place may be worn out. I believe that this is the problem with my 90690 router. With the 1/2" spiral cutter installed, I am able to shift the router bit slightly side to side using my fingers. Previously posted, not sure if you saw this comment: --- To help you quickly identify what areas of a curve are prone to chip out, look at the grain direction in the curve. When approaching a curve, if the router bit's path were to keep cutting straight rather than curving, would the router bit cut into the wood that you want to keep in the project? If so, the wood fibers may break away as the router bit moves through that curve, so you would want to rout that section in the "wrong" direction to eliminate the chip out that might otherwise happen. Hold the router firmly when routing in the "wrong" direction, as it may try to self-feed. I suggest that you buy a router that has a 1/2" collet. The general rule of thumb is that the router's cutting depth should be no more than the diameter of the router bit. So, if you used a 1/2" diameter router bit in a router with a 1/2" collet, by this rule of thumb, you would be able to cut twice as deep in each pass, reducing your cutting time by 50%. Last weekend I bought a Bosch 1617 EVS router at an auction for $65 USD. The router came with both a fixed base and a plunge base. The router kit was missing a 1/2" collet, the collet wrenches, and the sub-base for the plunge base - I was able to buy those missing parts on Amazon. The PantoRouter that I bought also came with a Bosch 1617 EVS router. The Bosch 1617 EVS seems to be a good router, if you are able to find one in good shape used, for example on EBay. The Milwaukee body grip routers are also nice, but you will need rather large hands to use one of those routers one-handed (they may be used with two hands also). I have ordered nine routers through various EBay sellers in the last month (some have not arrived yet) - the old Milwaukee 5650 1.5 HP and Milwaukee 5670 2.0 HP fixed-based routers from the 1990s are also great routers that usually sell cheaply on EBay, but you need to make certain that the seller is including the collet size you need and the correct-size wrenches (the wrenches may not be a requirement, I was able to find new old-stock collets for these routers for roughly $30 USD on EBay).
I appreciate this response, thank you for taking the time! I may have yo check out eBay myself for a good deal it sounds like it’s the place to get those! I am currently only using hand held routers that are 1/4, my table saw is 1/2 so would be nice to have that for those bits as well. I’ll add it to my wish list;)
Great project, Winnie! They look terrific and functional. It’s so cool they you shared two ways to make them, too. I prefer the first way for the truly clean pieces of wood, but the second is faster and a good option. Thanks for more quality inspiration and education! 👍🏼
Im brand new at wood working and this is awesome. I recently bought my first router a few weeks ago and its a beast. Im going to need some practice and learning about the bits before i attenpt this, but im looking forward to it. Thank you for making this video. New follower here!
Get yourself a trim router. Its small and will do just about everything you need but best of all it will give you experience before tackling a beast. Harbor freight sells an inexpensive one for getting your feet wet.
@standishwoodstory I got a digital Skil router, it got the plunge base and excepts the 1/4 and 1/2 inch bits. I'm not sure what the model is, but it's full size. I have to get more practice with with it. I also recently got myself a Kobalt table saw with the rack and pin fence. I love that saw. It'd been a bit intimidating but I've learned alot and really enjoy using it. I've been practicing my miters and rabbit joints with it. I also got a miter saw and a jig saw. I picked up these tools over the last year and it's been fun.
@@badgerdog9898 That is very neat that it takes both the 1/4 and the 1/2 shank size, that will come very handy as you expend your bit collection. Keep up the good and fun work of practicing, you'll be making what ever you want very soon! :)
Well done. Thank you for the very clear explanation. When I use a forstner bit to hog out the inside of a router cut bowl, I cut the first path around the template with the router about 5 mm deep before using the drill bit. This gives me a much sharper line to work to with the drill bit and eliminates a lot of chisel work.
Another great job Winnie!! I am lazy too when changing the resaw blade on my big bandsaw. I have a smaller desktop for that reason :) The 2nd method was definitely quicker. I sent you an email with a short video from my latest CNC project. Take care
Cliff you are a smart man, a 2nd bandsaw is for sure the way to go. I may have to keep my eyes out for a smaller one, I did just get a scroll saw so hoping it can do a bit of my super small work, but turns out scrolling wood is harder then it looks or maybe I just need more patience as it sure is slower then a bandsaw 😂 thanks for the email, I will have a look :)
@standishwoodstory as you know when you sand you make fine wood dust. Put a nice coat of poly on your piece then sand it. The fine dust mixes with the poly and fills cracks and fibers in the wood. Once it dries you will be pleased with the results. Then I use a mix of 1 cup turpentine 1cup beeswax 1 cup shellac rubbed on then after about 30 minutes I wipe it off to a beautiful finish. Let dry and you will have an amazing finish. Make some sawdust, looks like you're having fun. I know I love my woodshop.
Thank you so much for the deep explanation about the different router bits as this particular tool was a bit of a mystery for me😁. I would try the router method as I don't have a bandsaw (hope to get one soon:).
One thing to consider when designing router templates. That being, design them to fit the router bits you will be using. Inside corners the bits can do smoothly. Both look grrrrreat! JimE
It’s a balance between functional design and common router but sizes for sure, the smaller bit I have do work but just need to use my plunge router going forward ;)
Really nice looking results on this project. A couple of possible tips to help you with the router. If your plunge router is cable of using router bits with a half inch shank, buy a half inch spiral router bit, and use that router bit to clear the majority of the wood (flush trim spiral bits are available, but may be very expensive, so you might use a non-flush trim spiral bit to clear most of the waste, and then switch to a straight blade flush trim bit for the last 1/16"). The half inch shank router bits will deflect less than the quarter inch shank router bits, which will reduce the jumpiness of the cut. Since the spiral type router bit's cutting edge will be in constant contact with the wood being cut (rather than just twice per revolution), that too will reduce the jumpiness of the cut. For best control of the router, I suggest sitting in a chair so that you are able to rest your arms or a portion of your hands on what is being cut. You were cutting in what is considered the correct direction with the router. However, there are times when cutting in the "wrong" direction for small sections of the cut will reduce the risk of chip out, as you experienced when routing a portion of the outside of the project. I think that you will quickly learn what areas of a curve are prone to chip out, and rout those sections in the "wrong" direction.
I really appreciate you taking the time to share those tips, thank you. I wish my hand-held router also took 1/2 shanks but sadly it does not... maybe I need to wish for yet another router ;) I'll try your tips none the less and let you know how it goes.
To help you quickly identify what areas of a curve are prone to chip out, look at the grain direction in the curve. When approaching a curve, if the router bit's path were to keep cutting straight rather than curving, would the router bit cut into the wood that you want to keep in the project? If so, the wood fibers may break away as the router bit moves through that curve, so you would want to rout that section in the "wrong" direction to eliminate the chip out that might otherwise happen. Hold the router firmly when routing in the "wrong" direction, as it may try to self-feed. I suggest that you buy a router that has a 1/2" collet. The general rule of thumb is that the router's cutting depth should be no more than the diameter of the router bit. So, if you used a 1/2" diameter router bit in a router with a 1/2" collet, by this rule of thumb, you would be able to cut twice as deep in each pass, reducing your cutting time by 50%. Last weekend I bought a Bosch 1617 EVS router at an auction for $65 USD. The router came with both a fixed base and a plunge base. The router kit was missing a 1/2" collet, the collet wrenches, and the sub-base for the plunge base - I was able to buy those missing parts on Amazon. The PantoRouter that I bought also came with a Bosch 1617 EVS router. The Bosch 1617 EVS seems to be a good router, if you are able to find one in good shape used, for example on EBay. The Milwaukee body grip routers are also nice, but you will need rather large hands to use one of those routers one-handed (they may be used with two hands also). I have ordered nine routers through various EBay sellers in the last month (some have not arrived yet) - the old Milwaukee 5650 1.5 HP and Milwaukee 5670 2.0 HP fixed-based routers from the 1990s are also great routers that usually sell cheaply on EBay, but you need to make certain that the seller is including the collet size you need and the correct-size wrenches (the wrenches may not be a requirement, I was able to find new old-stock collets for these routers for roughly $30 USD on EBay).
Great video. The second method looks easier. However, my small band saw would not be able to resaw the bottom out. So, I would need to use method one. Nice to have an option. Thanks
If you have a table saw you could resaw the wood first on that, and then reattach the bottom using double sided tape while cutting out the shape on the bandsaw before removing the back again. You may need to reduce the template size a bit as it’s 7.5” wide currently which may be a bit too wide to resawing on a table saw. Or just use method number 1 :)
My husband uses a frenchs mustard cap on his bottles of tite bond glue they dont clog up and the cap locks in place. These caps only work on round bottles like the one you used in this project
Thank you so much, I’ve been watching you awhile and have learned so much! I finally got my shop set up. I’m so excited to get started. I think this will be my first project.💙 I don’t have a bandsaw or a drill press what would be the best alternative for the drill press I have a Forster bit.. i’m pretty sure it will tear up my wrist to use just a drill 😅😮
I’m so excited for you to get started! Please share your work when done. Do you have a router? If so I would use that and use method #1 - you don’t need to use a drill/forestner bit, you can remove it all just with a router it just takes a bit longer:) have a great time building.
I had the same thing happen to me but on my table router and the piece went flying so now I prefer to use my handheld, guess it all comes down to our experiences. I have learned a lot about routers since and the right bit, direction, type of wood using and amount you try to remove all makes a huge difference to avoid the 'jerk' most of the time.... but not all the time.
From my own experience, the more times you change those bandsaw blades, the quicker you accomplish it. And the right blade for the project speeds up the process.
The change it self is what it is, it’s the dialing the machine back in that seems to take me forever, but I agree practice would make it a speedier process :)
@@standishwoodstoryI make a lot of bandsaw boxes. I would cut the 1/2” piece off the bottom with a 3/4” blade first before cutting the tree profile. Then I would switch out to a 3/8” blade- tape the 2 pieces together with double sided tape and then cut out the tree profile for both. Take the pieces apart-Then cut the inner profile making a straight through cut from the top of the tree to the bottom/trunk- cutting straight through makes the cut disappear when you glue it back up. Then cut the inner curves. Glue the top pieces together and tape the template to the top. Route the inside profile of the top and clean up any of the inside curves that the router missed. Leave the template on and glue the top to the bottom. Then route the outer profile. Happy Woodworking and good luck with your channel! I love to see women woodworkers!
Would you try making these trays using both options or just one? *and which one??? Also, can you give any tips to our Woodworking Community to make this project easier? Thank you for watching and all of your support as my channel and passion for woodworking grows like crazy every day😍🤩😍
I love these trays. That’s a great shape. I really like how deep they are. Great project.
Thanks so much! Glad you like them :)
Great project and intro to the video, nice job. Templates really make projects so much more efficient and accurate.👍
Thank you very much 😁
Just subscribed because you admitted that you couldn't locate your scroll saw blades. I like that you are honest and truthful.
Thank you:) I looked everywhere for those blades with no luck. Ordered a new pack and as soon as they arrived I found the other ones 🤦♀️😂
Thx for the explanation on the router bits, this is the kind of stuff I also like to see you do as well as make things, you have such a knack of “teaching” that I believe most people can understand, maybe the Pros among us may feel they know better but often the newbies get forgotten by those masters on other channels
You are too kind but I appreciate the kind feedback on the teaching from what I’ve learned from other seasoned pros 💪
I was surprised when I heard you say 12k subs. This channel is underrated and definitely deserves more! I had to go and check. Ive been a follower for a while and thought you had way more!
Thank you for your very kind comment, the channel is growing quickly thanks to the many wonderful supporters such as yourself, and I am just thankful I get to do this and share my work. Thanks for watching 😊
Great explanation on the use of the router.
Glad it was helpful, have a great time making your own
Winnie, most of the routers that I recently ordered through different EBay sellers arrived. One of the three 90th anniversary Porter Cable 90690 routers that I purchased is somewhat "jumpy" when using a 1/2" spiral cutter with a 1/2" shank when taking a 3/4" deep cut in red oak. I am not sure if this is the same "jumpy" behavior that you are experiencing with your old router. Three causes that I am able to think of that might cause this "jumpy" feeling:
1. The collet may be worn out. This Porter Cable 90690 router is the only one that came with a 1/2" collet, the others came with a 1/4" collet. I used this router's collet in the other routers and did not experience the "jumpy" behavior with the other routers. If the collet in your router is worn out, you may be able to find replacement collets - I found that the router bit manufacturer Amana makes a replacement 1/2" collet for Porter Cable routers, so I ordered two of those to test, rather than buying one of the Chinese made replacement router collets.
2. The collet or collet socket may be packed with sawdust or the router bit may be touching the bottom of the collet socket (if the router bit touches the bottom of the socket when inserted, pull the router bit out of the collet 1/16" to 1/8" so that the router bit seats correctly in the collet).
3. The arbor bearings or the socket that holds the arbor bearings in place may be worn out. I believe that this is the problem with my 90690 router. With the 1/2" spiral cutter installed, I am able to shift the router bit slightly side to side using my fingers.
Previously posted, not sure if you saw this comment:
---
To help you quickly identify what areas of a curve are prone to chip out, look at the grain direction in the curve. When approaching a curve, if the router bit's path were to keep cutting straight rather than curving, would the router bit cut into the wood that you want to keep in the project? If so, the wood fibers may break away as the router bit moves through that curve, so you would want to rout that section in the "wrong" direction to eliminate the chip out that might otherwise happen. Hold the router firmly when routing in the "wrong" direction, as it may try to self-feed.
I suggest that you buy a router that has a 1/2" collet. The general rule of thumb is that the router's cutting depth should be no more than the diameter of the router bit. So, if you used a 1/2" diameter router bit in a router with a 1/2" collet, by this rule of thumb, you would be able to cut twice as deep in each pass, reducing your cutting time by 50%.
Last weekend I bought a Bosch 1617 EVS router at an auction for $65 USD. The router came with both a fixed base and a plunge base. The router kit was missing a 1/2" collet, the collet wrenches, and the sub-base for the plunge base - I was able to buy those missing parts on Amazon. The PantoRouter that I bought also came with a Bosch 1617 EVS router. The Bosch 1617 EVS seems to be a good router, if you are able to find one in good shape used, for example on EBay. The Milwaukee body grip routers are also nice, but you will need rather large hands to use one of those routers one-handed (they may be used with two hands also). I have ordered nine routers through various EBay sellers in the last month (some have not arrived yet) - the old Milwaukee 5650 1.5 HP and Milwaukee 5670 2.0 HP fixed-based routers from the 1990s are also great routers that usually sell cheaply on EBay, but you need to make certain that the seller is including the collet size you need and the correct-size wrenches (the wrenches may not be a requirement, I was able to find new old-stock collets for these routers for roughly $30 USD on EBay).
I appreciate this response, thank you for taking the time! I may have yo check out eBay myself for a good deal it sounds like it’s the place to get those! I am currently only using hand held routers that are 1/4, my table saw is 1/2 so would be nice to have that for those bits as well. I’ll add it to my wish list;)
Great project, Winnie! They look terrific and functional. It’s so cool they you shared two ways to make them, too. I prefer the first way for the truly clean pieces of wood, but the second is faster and a good option. Thanks for more quality inspiration and education! 👍🏼
Thank you and absolutely will do :)
You should see the router plate that 3x3 Custom-Tamar built. That thing is awesome and adjustable!
I’ve seen it; looks super cool!
Im brand new at wood working and this is awesome. I recently bought my first router a few weeks ago and its a beast.
Im going to need some practice and learning about the bits before i attenpt this, but im looking forward to it.
Thank you for making this video.
New follower here!
Get yourself a trim router. Its small and will do just about everything you need but best of all it will give you experience before tackling a beast. Harbor freight sells an inexpensive one for getting your feet wet.
Welcome to woodworking it’s a true joy! What router did you end up with?
@standishwoodstory I got a digital Skil router, it got the plunge base and excepts the 1/4 and 1/2 inch bits.
I'm not sure what the model is, but it's full size. I have to get more practice with with it.
I also recently got myself a Kobalt table saw with the rack and pin fence. I love that saw. It'd been a bit intimidating but I've learned alot and really enjoy using it.
I've been practicing my miters and rabbit joints with it.
I also got a miter saw and a jig saw. I picked up these tools over the last year and it's been fun.
@@badgerdog9898 That is very neat that it takes both the 1/4 and the 1/2 shank size, that will come very handy as you expend your bit collection. Keep up the good and fun work of practicing, you'll be making what ever you want very soon! :)
Well done. Thank you for the very clear explanation. When I use a forstner bit to hog out the inside of a router cut bowl, I cut the first path around the template with the router about 5 mm deep before using the drill bit. This gives me a much sharper line to work to with the drill bit and eliminates a lot of chisel work.
Oh that is a good idea, thank you for sharing that and thanks for the nice feedback :)
Great project
Thank you very much, I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Superbe vidéo 😊
A bientôt
Thank you very much 😊
@standishwoodstory c'est avec plaisir
@@potagermalo :)
Excellent presentation very thorough and explained clearly.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching :)
Hej
Flot arbejde og en god introduktion, gode ideer til julemarked.
Tak for det, og hyggeligt at have en dansker 🇩🇰 kigge med :)
Meget fint❤️
Tak :)
Truly amazing work I love it😊
You are very kind, thank you for watching 😊
Congratulations on your 12k subs. You are doing a great job!
Thank you very much, I appreciate the support :)
Another great video! Thank you so much!
My pleasure, thanks for watching 😊
Another great job Winnie!! I am lazy too when changing the resaw blade on my big bandsaw. I have a smaller desktop for that reason :) The 2nd method was definitely quicker. I sent you an email with a short video from my latest CNC project. Take care
Cliff you are a smart man, a 2nd bandsaw is for sure the way to go. I may have to keep my eyes out for a smaller one, I did just get a scroll saw so hoping it can do a bit of my super small work, but turns out scrolling wood is harder then it looks or maybe I just need more patience as it sure is slower then a bandsaw 😂 thanks for the email, I will have a look :)
Thanks for the video, I would do the router version..love you're shop.well organized and clean.. would you do a shop tour sometime?
Thanks for the lovely feedback, and yes I hope to do a new shop tour in January once the Christmas rush has settled down, so stay tuned :)
I use a woodworkers gravy to hide seams. Put poly on then sand the dust mixes with the poly. You will like the results. Thanks for the awesome video.
What is a woodworkers gravy? Please share :)
@standishwoodstory as you know when you sand you make fine wood dust. Put a nice coat of poly on your piece then sand it. The fine dust mixes with the poly and fills cracks and fibers in the wood. Once it dries you will be pleased with the results. Then I use a mix of 1 cup turpentine 1cup beeswax 1 cup shellac rubbed on then after about 30 minutes I wipe it off to a beautiful finish. Let dry and you will have an amazing finish. Make some sawdust, looks like you're having fun. I know I love my woodshop.
@standishwoodstory I probably don't have to tell you melt the bees wax. You will love the finish you get.
@@Windsongwoodshop That is something I'll have to give a try, thank you for sharing your method, much appreciated.
@@Windsongwoodshop 😂Would have been funny if I didn't though. Thanks for clarifying :)
Thank you so much for the deep explanation about the different router bits as this particular tool was a bit of a mystery for me😁. I would try the router method as I don't have a bandsaw (hope to get one soon:).
Your most welcome, let me know how yours turn out.
One thing to consider when designing router templates. That being, design them to fit the router bits you will be using. Inside corners the bits can do smoothly.
Both look grrrrreat! JimE
It’s a balance between functional design and common router but sizes for sure, the smaller bit I have do work but just need to use my plunge router going forward ;)
Really nice looking results on this project. A couple of possible tips to help you with the router. If your plunge router is cable of using router bits with a half inch shank, buy a half inch spiral router bit, and use that router bit to clear the majority of the wood (flush trim spiral bits are available, but may be very expensive, so you might use a non-flush trim spiral bit to clear most of the waste, and then switch to a straight blade flush trim bit for the last 1/16"). The half inch shank router bits will deflect less than the quarter inch shank router bits, which will reduce the jumpiness of the cut. Since the spiral type router bit's cutting edge will be in constant contact with the wood being cut (rather than just twice per revolution), that too will reduce the jumpiness of the cut. For best control of the router, I suggest sitting in a chair so that you are able to rest your arms or a portion of your hands on what is being cut. You were cutting in what is considered the correct direction with the router. However, there are times when cutting in the "wrong" direction for small sections of the cut will reduce the risk of chip out, as you experienced when routing a portion of the outside of the project. I think that you will quickly learn what areas of a curve are prone to chip out, and rout those sections in the "wrong" direction.
I really appreciate you taking the time to share those tips, thank you. I wish my hand-held router also took 1/2 shanks but sadly it does not... maybe I need to wish for yet another router ;) I'll try your tips none the less and let you know how it goes.
To help you quickly identify what areas of a curve are prone to chip out, look at the grain direction in the curve. When approaching a curve, if the router bit's path were to keep cutting straight rather than curving, would the router bit cut into the wood that you want to keep in the project? If so, the wood fibers may break away as the router bit moves through that curve, so you would want to rout that section in the "wrong" direction to eliminate the chip out that might otherwise happen. Hold the router firmly when routing in the "wrong" direction, as it may try to self-feed.
I suggest that you buy a router that has a 1/2" collet. The general rule of thumb is that the router's cutting depth should be no more than the diameter of the router bit. So, if you used a 1/2" diameter router bit in a router with a 1/2" collet, by this rule of thumb, you would be able to cut twice as deep in each pass, reducing your cutting time by 50%.
Last weekend I bought a Bosch 1617 EVS router at an auction for $65 USD. The router came with both a fixed base and a plunge base. The router kit was missing a 1/2" collet, the collet wrenches, and the sub-base for the plunge base - I was able to buy those missing parts on Amazon. The PantoRouter that I bought also came with a Bosch 1617 EVS router. The Bosch 1617 EVS seems to be a good router, if you are able to find one in good shape used, for example on EBay. The Milwaukee body grip routers are also nice, but you will need rather large hands to use one of those routers one-handed (they may be used with two hands also). I have ordered nine routers through various EBay sellers in the last month (some have not arrived yet) - the old Milwaukee 5650 1.5 HP and Milwaukee 5670 2.0 HP fixed-based routers from the 1990s are also great routers that usually sell cheaply on EBay, but you need to make certain that the seller is including the collet size you need and the correct-size wrenches (the wrenches may not be a requirement, I was able to find new old-stock collets for these routers for roughly $30 USD on EBay).
Great video. The second method looks easier. However, my small band saw would not be able to resaw the bottom out. So, I would need to use method one. Nice to have an option. Thanks
If you have a table saw you could resaw the wood first on that, and then reattach the bottom using double sided tape while cutting out the shape on the bandsaw before removing the back again. You may need to reduce the template size a bit as it’s 7.5” wide currently which may be a bit too wide to resawing on a table saw. Or just use method number 1 :)
Niiiiiiiiiiiiiice ty
Thanks 😁
My husband uses a frenchs mustard cap on his bottles of tite bond glue they dont clog up and the cap locks in place. These caps only work on round bottles like the one you used in this project
Good idea. The titebond bottles are such a pain to open, the LePage bottles are much simpler, titebond is great glue but the bottle, not so much 😂
Thank you so much, I’ve been watching you awhile and have learned so much! I finally got my shop set up. I’m so excited to get started. I think this will be my first project.💙 I don’t have a bandsaw or a drill press what would be the best alternative for the drill press I have a Forster bit.. i’m pretty sure it will tear up my wrist to use just a drill 😅😮
I’m so excited for you to get started! Please share your work when done. Do you have a router? If so I would use that and use method #1 - you don’t need to use a drill/forestner bit, you can remove it all just with a router it just takes a bit longer:) have a great time building.
I would just use the "bandsaw box" method. I have made many of them and it seemed much easier with the same results.
It’s great to have options indeed :)
I guess I would have to go with the router method. I have just a small bandsaw which does an absolutely bad job on rewawing.
That makes sense indeed, either way it's great that so many wood project can be made in different ways
Try a small flush trim saw
For which part? For the top corner?
For that corner, maybe an oscillating tool?
Maybe, I need something smaller that fits corners for sure
I MAKE A LOT OF BAND SAW BOXS, AND THINK THE BAND SAW IS THE BEST WAY OF DOING IT.
Thanks for sharing, bandsaw boxes are fun to make, do you make yours with inside drawers as well?
@@standishwoodstory YES I DO, THEN I FLOCK THE INSIDE OF THE DRAW.
I make my own lumber by re-sawing fallen tree limbs. I can cut whatever thickness I want that way.
Awesome, how long do you dry your cut wood for?
I'm not comfortable using my handheld router yet. It jerked on my initial use and I've generally avoided it. I plan to get a table router.
I had the same thing happen to me but on my table router and the piece went flying so now I prefer to use my handheld, guess it all comes down to our experiences. I have learned a lot about routers since and the right bit, direction, type of wood using and amount you try to remove all makes a huge difference to avoid the 'jerk' most of the time.... but not all the time.
From my own experience, the more times you change those bandsaw blades, the quicker you accomplish it. And the right blade for the project speeds up the process.
The change it self is what it is, it’s the dialing the machine back in that seems to take me forever, but I agree practice would make it a speedier process :)
@@standishwoodstoryI make a lot of bandsaw boxes. I would cut the 1/2” piece off the bottom with a 3/4” blade first before cutting the tree profile. Then I would switch out to a 3/8” blade- tape the 2 pieces together with double sided tape and then cut out the tree profile for both. Take the pieces apart-Then cut the inner profile making a straight through cut from the top of the tree to the bottom/trunk- cutting straight through makes the cut disappear when you glue it back up. Then cut the inner curves. Glue the top pieces together and tape the template to the top. Route the inside profile of the top and clean up any of the inside curves that the router missed. Leave the template on and glue the top to the bottom. Then route the outer profile. Happy Woodworking and good luck with your channel! I love to see women woodworkers!
Routering: Outside counter-clockwise, inside clockwise, wasn't it?
Correct (I have to look it up every single time just to be sure!)
You should get a smaller band saw just to use a smaller blade with.
I fully agree, might have to make a purchase ;)
Winnie, Great job with you're presentation, I appreciate the details,but yet you kept moving thru ..
😊
My shop is 8x12 feet. I have the cheaper tools in it and make keepsake boxes out of fallen tree limbs. I sell out of them every time I do a show.
That’s amazing! And just shows that you can do A LOT with simple tools. Love it!
You must have been a teacher in your past life.
That's very obvious in your videos.
Nope sorry to disappoint but I’ve never been a teacher in my past careers but I do love what I do now :)
you are funny! ha ha ha!
We only have the fun we make ourselves right 😂
Just so you know, the word for what you do with a router is routing, not "routering". Great job routing out the tray!
I learn something new every day :)
There's alway one db in thr crowd
The tool is a router, the verb is "to rout". When you use the tool, you are "routing", not "routering".
Thank you for sharing your grammar wisdom. I wonder how many languages do you speak as English is not my first language? Thanks for watching👍
Not to jump the router: don't drill holes! Router first, holes later... 🙄.
Thanks for sharing the tip
I just have to say it, it's "router vs bandsaw" but the "router team" is using a bandsaw....
I know, team router don’t play fairly 😂
30 minutes to change the band saw blade???😮😮 You need more practice doing it lady!
Thank you for your words or wisdom. Hopefully one day I will be as successful as you👍
I know it’s been said in previous comments but the router bit explanation was great. Thank you! @bottles_and_beams
My pleasure I’m glad you found it useful :)