My 540i was as loud as a mofo when the timing chain guides went. Very loud chain slapping on startup and then a constant rattle. Here's hoping that it's just residual metal from previous work on the car.
I also had the big banana chain guide go on a M62, it started developing a soft slapping noise on the right hand side valver cover that was noticeable. Even though I caught it fairly early the chain was already eating into the backing material of the chain guide ever so slightly, the plastic was gone. One big clue was the chain guide being in pieces on the oil sump though, you guys dropped the sump for the bearing job right and found nothing right? Have you checked the pickup screen of the oil pump?
The guides are plastic for the most part, so if they are gone you would see the plastic bits in the oil plan. Chain slap can cause metal flakes. But something to consider - more specifically - the Oil Pump tensioner. If that chain in loose, it will slap and you will get metal fragments from it wearing
Damn guys that sucks, I would definitely put fresh oil in and new filter and check it again after a few miles just to be absolutely certain it’s not residual.
Moly is now your best friend. Ad some Nulon or LiquiMoly oil additive. Your oil filter will be black, good because shiny metals will contrast against it enabling better spotting of contamination. Only two options now, run it hard or pull it apart !!
Seen this on two S54s before and after doing rod bearings. Very few microscopic flakes and slight glitter at the end of the oil drain in the pan. Wouldn't worry about it and call it standard engine wear. Everyone is hypersensitive on checking the oil for metallic substances on these M-engines. As long as there are not large pieces of metal or vast amounts of it, like one would see after a spun bearing, it should be fine. And if the pieces are large enough for you to see, the oil analysis machine will not pick it up (called and asked), which is why those are not that helpful.
It could be from the chain rubbing the front cover it could be the bearings get seated in and it could be from the vanos pumps as well. I certainly wouldn't put the supercharger belt back on it nor drive it at all before you knew what it is from. It could just be from the system itself from the last time before the bearings were replaced. How ever its alot better to be safe than sorry. I would say while you are waiting for results to get back to completely clean the oil cooler and lines .
Some more thoughts.. - You can get a peak at the top of the main guide with bank 1 valve cover off. Also have a good look at the chain with oil fill cap off, turn engine by hand and see if there’s and scoring on the chain suggesting it’s been rubbing on the main guide. - on back of vanos units the radial oil pump on the intake side is held in with a big circlip, these circlips can eat away at the pump drive over time. There’s actually a revision to these circlips available. When i did a vanos rebuild on my 148k km s62 there was evidence of the circlips wearing away the pump drives. Rod bearings have been ruled out and i still lean towards something aftermarket causing this, as mentioned oil cooler. Good luck lads!
I am DIYing a Chrysler 2.7L V6. I know for certain that the timing chain tensioner was well beyond its change indicator line. The crankshaft bearings appear to have no movement. I found this video while searching for "shiny flakes in oil pickup tube". Yes, flakes. Not glitter. Thank you for suggesting that chain slap can cause flakes.
Had a very similar problem to you a few years back: my S62 was hemorrhaging aluminum. I also developed a ticking noise at 2200 rpm. Tore my hair out trying to diagnose it, but nothing worked. It wasn’t the valve train, the rod bearings, lifters, or chain. When the engine was pulled apart, the cylinder bores and pistons were horrifically scored, and it was concluded the noise I had developed was a piston slap from all the lost material. Most S62 engines that are pulled apart have scored bores, some worse than others but it seems to be a feature of these engines. What is the history of this engine? Was 5w30 used frequently or did it sit for a long time?
andrew put engine flush oil in it and do a second flush and check the filter again as what is in the oil and filter might be from before the bearing change. the v8 bimmer engines also had a problem with aluminium flakes coming off from the inside of the rocker covers common problem take the covers off and have a look there are plenty of articals on this problem
Don't torture yourselves with speculation. Wait for the oil analysis to come back. Make sure you do a video to go over the analysis. It's nothing that can't be fixed.
Does the supercharger use the same oil as the engine? Other than that I'd be looking at the timing chain too. Maybe try another oil change just incase the metal particles were just residual from the crank bearings?
I don't know if the metal parts of the chain guides are steel or another magnetic type of metal, but the block is Aluminium, so it can't be that. Guides/chains worn that much would sound really bad tho. I know nothing about super chargers so with the risk of sounding like a complete dummy I still have to ask, does the SC share the oil with the engine? If it does it might be the charger thats faulty. The S62 is a noisy ass engine as it is so it can be hard to hear over the other things that make a racket, vanos mostly.
More flushes I reckon, there are plenty of nooks and crannies for little flakes like that to hide inside the motor. Hopefully each flush yields less debris than the last
Possibly the timing chain rubbing against the timing chain cover? Not very common in the s62 unless its been running warmer than normal, which with the supercharger is very possible.
How is the supercharger lubricated? I once had an issue like this but it was the supercharger bearing that was doing it, just a thought outside the box. I had to get the supercharger rebuilt. It was very noisy too.
The car is a manual with more than likely a heavy duty clutch this can cause excessive wear on a thrust bearing check the crank end float any more than 3-4thou I’d be worried 😟
You're doing the right thing, send that oil off and find out what it is. Only alternative is start ripping it apart randomly searching, potentially breaking goodness knows what else along the way. Good news is that you're on it before it's catastrophic. I'd totally be tempted to run a couple of budget-cheap oil changes through though, to rinse everything out, it could be residual - that stuff might have been circulating round for while, coating everything up? I really hope that is all it is.
This is the first flush since the rod bearings. However the rod bearings were in pretty condition. In fact i'd say the metal we saw prior to the bearings and what we assumed were rod bearings, probably wasn't rod bearings. :|
What about the supercharger? That's not a new V3 type that has its own oil is it? My Vortech S-Trim ran oil from my sending unit & dumped into my oil pan. Any of the gears in the blower going...?
@@ZeroTo60Tube Oh see 25 yrs ago when i ran an S-Trim in my mustang they didn't. That sucks hope it turns out to be nothing! I'll be making a video of my car late spring or very beginning of summer! I have an 09 135i black on black 43 thousand original miles. Full bolt ons with a few other mice parts. Car rips! I'll hit you guys up if you're interested....👍🏁
That's rough, I would wait untill the results from castrol come back before driving the car hard or at all. Best of luck with it, I hope all turns out well.
I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. If you can be bothered remove cam covers and inspect for cam lobes. Change oil again and more often. Keep an eye on it.
Just a thought, did you pull and check the thrust bearing on the mains? Is this from the supercharger lube line? Have you taken any return lines off any oil lubed accessory and checked those?
We thought about checking the mains while it was apart but chose not to. The logic was, if there is an issue with them, the car wont be going back together as the crank needs to come out. We did do some research on main bearing failures and it seems very rare. Well i couldn't find any documented cases where mains had failed without the rod bearings failing first causing heat around the main. Figured it was pretty unlikely. But hey that doesnt mean its impossible.
Personally I'd check the timing chain and tensioner and guides, make sure your using the right oil. *IF* it was rod bearings, would it do any harm to just leave them and wait until anything happens that confirms its rod bearings, so if it knocks then you'd be pretty certain it's bearings. Also i have no experience with m5's so just guessing.
E85? Did you use a moly based “assembly” lube? Ide run an engine flush through. Fresh oil, then 1000km and oil sample. What oil did you put in with new bearings?
That oil sample won’t really give you a true indication. Might get a hit on the metal but yeah. If you wanna run it a while and do a proper sample ie get it hot sample from sump buy pumping it out, I have a proper sample pump here.
Used the lube that come with the rod bearings. Can’t remember exactly what it was. Completely agree about the sample. They are always a bit vague, just wanting to find out what metal that was in the pan. Then might be able to work out where it’s come from.
Well that sucks! If someone has fiddled with the chain then I’d suspect it is coming from a gear tooth or gear face. Perhaps it wasn’t reassembled properly and something is misaligned or become loose. If those black bits look like dirt I’d be swapping out that pod as well as oil contamination from the air it’s breathing is the last thing you want at this point.
Might need a few more flushes, there's specific oil just for engine flushing, might help getting rid of all the crap. This reminds me when during VCG change, I found out the belts had been shredded previously and ingested, chunks of it floating around in the oil. First thought was, that's it engines done for, but Mechanic managed to remove virtually all of it and the car still drives strong. Chin up guys, hope for the best.
I can't say I'm experienced with the S62. I imagine with anything internally you'll have to bed them in. It's been mentioned, it could be bits that were already in the engine. A few flushes may clear it. I know how that feels when you put your heart & soul into the car, only to find theres a problem. It's disheartening to say the least. Eather way, we car guys are dedicated people. We will overcome these obstacles when they arise. The car looks amazing. It could of easily ended being ripped apart and scrapped, but you've given her a new lease of life. It's just figuring out whats been done as with any modified car. Keep us posted...
This pieces might be from the valve covers they are magnesium They peal from the inside . This what I found out in my 540 but the M5 valve covers are made from the same material
Bit of a bummer guys. Maybe it's still residue. If that's not the problem , maybe the oil pump is not 100% anymore, and that's metal. Dutch regards, Nico.
Feel your pain dave all that work, but you still have a mint e39 m5 which not many folk can say. Just a thought but mibi drain oil cooler and flush it and does it drain cooler through sump or it got thermostat?? 👍🏴
I’m figuring it’s about time to do my guides on my 540. So if you guys end up doing yours, please make a nice detailed set of videos. Realistically all you can do is send it off for inspection and hope for the best. Wishing you guys good fortune
So.. if u end up removing the engine... Just take out all oil line, soft and hard, oil cooler and such... Clean them up with degreaser and pressure wash
Doesn't seem like bearin material to me guys I'd just wait till you oil analysis comes back and do some kms in the meantime and do another change once you get the results...
Yeah, the chunks in the filter seem like something other than bearings and really small particles in the oil, werent in the filter sooooo hmmmmmmmmm what could it be....
As I think about my locked up n55 I feel for you boys - at least it still runs gents and everything can be fixed - at least that what I am telling myself...
Cars like this and Andrews 335i that are running a reasonable state of tune over stock we will do every 2000-3000klms. Probably overkill, but its to try and catch an issue before it gets serious and then also to give the oil the best chance of working before breaking down. A stock car like daves 540i and say the X5 we would do every 10,000k's. The work van we tend to do when it starts smelling like it might be on fire haha.....
New bearings should be run in. There will definitely be wear as they mate to the crankshaft even if it plastigauged ok Fingers crossed thats all it is along with some residual shavings.
They can be quiet and go bad or they can slap and carry on for thousands of miles. they are odd engines sounding engines but once you do everything its bulletproof from what ive been told
I would flush it a few times with cheap oil. Just idle it for a bit, get it nice and hot then drain it. I think it's residual junk. Usually you get a fair bit of noise with bad guides. Bet of luck
Next time you do an oil change, Drain the oil while hot then Fill the complete capacity less 2 liters and Fill the remaining 2 liters with diesel and let the car idle for 5min. Do Not rev it or drive it as the viscosity of the oil will be substantially lower. Just let it idle ( you can even just fill up with diesel if you really want a deep clean but then don't idle for that long, This has been done to death all around the world by thousands of mechanics for decades so its completely safe as long as you don't load the motor). while that oil is hot drain it, Don't let it cool. You want the oil to have as little viscosity as possible when draining to allow the most amount of oil to drain. Then put new oil, New filter and drive the car for 45mins on a motor way at 120kph. Once you return drain that oil while hot then put new oil new filter and drive that for a week or so. Drain the oil again and see if it still has any flakes in it. This is basically how I have been doing oil changes for the past 4 years on my N54. When I took the tappet cover off recently it was like new inside the motor still and it has 144k km and it's heavily modified with hybrid turbos and methanol running 26psi of boost and is driven daily.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Yea its quite a hectic way of changing oil and not the cheapest but it takes 3 - 4 oil changes in an N54 for the oil to drain out the engine the same colour it went in. It's amazing how much dirty oil is left in the engine when you do an oil change. I do my oil changes every 3000 - 5000km. If the car was stock I would leave the oil a bit longer but for me the most important thing in a modded turbocharged engine is oil as it reaches very high temps often which breaks the oil down fast, also the higher the boost the more blowby which contaminates the oil quickly too.
Had timing chain guides done on my 535 E39 last month and for me it was audible chain slapping. Not loud. But definatly noticebable when you got close. definatly something worth looking into. Although i think Dave might be right about the bearings needing time to settle in after freshies are put in but ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ im no mechanic have no experience changing them. Also pain in the ass to change. Keen to see the video for that!!
Very probably is metal that is on the oil cooler,, flush everything, that engines have so much oil channels, cheap oil run 100 to 200km and change oil again with good oil and run 1000km and check again.
I’ve got a daily 94 civic that throws out 3 times as much metal shaving flakes than this bmw and I’ve put 60k miles on it since I noticed the shavings 😂 It’s got 236,000 on the clock … I didn’t see the video before this one as it says “more metal flakes found” Obviously I’m not redlining my old commuter and it’s not supercharged … but it’s still kicking and with no knocks, tics or smoke 😂😂😂
Look on it as more quality content .You guys overcome and educate with alacrity.Keep On Keeping on ;) Show us how to do timing chains then they’re Done
You know,i bought my car used qith 29k miles am now at 71k and had that glitter in oul since 29k has gotton more notice but so has my timmimg chain sound.mechanic going to drop oil pan amd tale a look at some things to see hat the next step is
@@ZeroTo60Tube Hey, know worries mate. Just trying to help you lads out. Yes.. e.g. certain pistons in that engine look the same but have different coatings. Best of luck with her. Any leads on what the ferrous material is yet?
This why I run a magnetic sump plug in my E39.
Fixed a fog light and collapsed lumbar support switch today for free. Winning.
I would flush the oil several times before thinking there are issues. IMO
That is what I would do
Was thinking the same thing. Flush it out as much as possible and see how it looks after that.
This is the 3rd oil change in 80klms of driving. So it should be getting pretty clean inside. We'll see what the change shows soon i guess.
@@ZeroTo60Tube hoping for the best
@@ZeroTo60Tube any word on findings?
I would suggest driving it again 500-1000km and do an oil and filter change again to see that result...
@@doorgoo But if the bearings look fine to them the first time and this is metallic then how could it be fixed?
My 540i was as loud as a mofo when the timing chain guides went. Very loud chain slapping on startup and then a constant rattle. Here's hoping that it's just residual metal from previous work on the car.
I also had the big banana chain guide go on a M62, it started developing a soft slapping noise on the right hand side valver cover that was noticeable. Even though I caught it fairly early the chain was already eating into the backing material of the chain guide ever so slightly, the plastic was gone. One big clue was the chain guide being in pieces on the oil sump though, you guys dropped the sump for the bearing job right and found nothing right? Have you checked the pickup screen of the oil pump?
Fingers crossed for a Christmas miracle and nothing too catastrophic!
The guides are plastic for the most part, so if they are gone you would see the plastic bits in the oil plan. Chain slap can cause metal flakes. But something to consider - more specifically - the Oil Pump tensioner. If that chain in loose, it will slap and you will get metal fragments from it wearing
Damn guys that sucks, I would definitely put fresh oil in and new filter and check it again after a few miles just to be absolutely certain it’s not residual.
Keep us updated. You guys sound like my brother and I just back and forth brainstorming, trouble shooting, and thinking out loud. Good material
Moly is now your best friend. Ad some Nulon or LiquiMoly oil additive. Your oil filter will be black, good because shiny metals will contrast against it enabling better spotting of contamination.
Only two options now, run it hard or pull it apart !!
Seen this on two S54s before and after doing rod bearings. Very few microscopic flakes and slight glitter at the end of the oil drain in the pan. Wouldn't worry about it and call it standard engine wear. Everyone is hypersensitive on checking the oil for metallic substances on these M-engines. As long as there are not large pieces of metal or vast amounts of it, like one would see after a spun bearing, it should be fine. And if the pieces are large enough for you to see, the oil analysis machine will not pick it up (called and asked), which is why those are not that helpful.
Custom oil cooler? Metal shavings from the tapped line fittings? That has happened before and there’s a post on m5board about it.
It could be from the chain rubbing the front cover it could be the bearings get seated in and it could be from the vanos pumps as well. I certainly wouldn't put the supercharger belt back on it nor drive it at all before you knew what it is from. It could just be from the system itself from the last time before the bearings were replaced. How ever its alot better to be safe than sorry. I would say while you are waiting for results to get back to completely clean the oil cooler and lines .
Unless it’s residual, I’d flush it and give it another go. Take the oil pan off and check it out.
Some more thoughts..
- You can get a peak at the top of the main guide with bank 1 valve cover off. Also have a good look at the chain with oil fill cap off, turn engine by hand and see if there’s and scoring on the chain suggesting it’s been rubbing on the main guide.
- on back of vanos units the radial oil pump on the intake side is held in with a big circlip, these circlips can eat away at the pump drive over time. There’s actually a revision to these circlips available. When i did a vanos rebuild on my 148k km s62 there was evidence of the circlips wearing away the pump drives.
Rod bearings have been ruled out and i still lean towards something aftermarket causing this, as mentioned oil cooler.
Good luck lads!
Its more likely to be something related to the timing chain rather than bearings IMO.
I am DIYing a Chrysler 2.7L V6. I know for certain that the timing chain tensioner was well beyond its change indicator line. The crankshaft bearings appear to have no movement. I found this video while searching for "shiny flakes in oil pickup tube". Yes, flakes. Not glitter. Thank you for suggesting that chain slap can cause flakes.
I'd say check timing chain guides. Few of them are aluminum. Friends M5 had issue with guides before.
It’s been 3 years now. Did you figured out what occurred! ?
Had a very similar problem to you a few years back: my S62 was hemorrhaging aluminum. I also developed a ticking noise at 2200 rpm. Tore my hair out trying to diagnose it, but nothing worked. It wasn’t the valve train, the rod bearings, lifters, or chain. When the engine was pulled apart, the cylinder bores and pistons were horrifically scored, and it was concluded the noise I had developed was a piston slap from all the lost material. Most S62 engines that are pulled apart have scored bores, some worse than others but it seems to be a feature of these engines. What is the history of this engine? Was 5w30 used frequently or did it sit for a long time?
it sat for a few months this year but the previous owner used liqui moly 10w-60
The lower bearings are grinding away or the timing chain guides.
A lot owners with the newer M series end up having the same problem
andrew put engine flush oil in it and do a second flush and check the filter again as what is in the oil and filter might be from before the bearing change. the v8 bimmer engines also had a problem with aluminium flakes coming off from the inside of the rocker covers common problem take the covers off and have a look there are plenty of articals on this problem
Borescope the cylinders and look at the cylinder walls.
I think this is gonna be a must!
Don't torture yourselves with speculation. Wait for the oil analysis to come back. Make sure you do a video to go over the analysis. It's nothing that can't be fixed.
These dudes....they'll fix ANYTHING!
Does the supercharger use the same oil as the engine? Other than that I'd be looking at the timing chain too.
Maybe try another oil change just incase the metal particles were just residual from the crank bearings?
no these superchargers are a separate unit with their own oil
the supercharger unit is self contained
I don't know if the metal parts of the chain guides are steel or another magnetic type of metal, but the block is Aluminium, so it can't be that. Guides/chains worn that much would sound really bad tho. I know nothing about super chargers so with the risk of sounding like a complete dummy I still have to ask, does the SC share the oil with the engine? If it does it might be the charger thats faulty. The S62 is a noisy ass engine as it is so it can be hard to hear over the other things that make a racket, vanos mostly.
not a silly question (especially with how much noise the charger makes) but they are a standalone unit with its own oil
More flushes I reckon, there are plenty of nooks and crannies for little flakes like that to hide inside the motor. Hopefully each flush yields less debris than the last
Possibly the timing chain rubbing against the timing chain cover? Not very common in the s62 unless its been running warmer than normal, which with the supercharger is very possible.
How is the supercharger lubricated? I once had an issue like this but it was the supercharger bearing that was doing it, just a thought outside the box. I had to get the supercharger rebuilt. It was very noisy too.
Is that gold glitter in the oil the bearings ? Or is that just from the type of oil you use ?
Yeah good luck, hope there can be a good outcome to this situation. Or at least a cheap fix.
The car is a manual with more than likely a heavy duty clutch this can cause excessive wear on a thrust bearing check the crank end float any more than 3-4thou I’d be worried 😟
another problem is the oil pump chain rubbing on the oil pump cover when it stretches
Have you tried an engine flush, oil, run it for a few miles and change? could be left over deposits? just an idea (Process of elimination).
Haven't tried a specific engine flush. But it has had 3 oil changes in about 100klms now.
Wouldnt there be metal flakes from before still in oil galleries etc?
You're doing the right thing, send that oil off and find out what it is. Only alternative is start ripping it apart randomly searching, potentially breaking goodness knows what else along the way. Good news is that you're on it before it's catastrophic. I'd totally be tempted to run a couple of budget-cheap oil changes through though, to rinse everything out, it could be residual - that stuff might have been circulating round for while, coating everything up? I really hope that is all it is.
Did you guys flush the oil cooler out after doing the rod bearings? They might just be residual shavings from before the bearings were replaced.
This is the first flush since the rod bearings. However the rod bearings were in pretty condition. In fact i'd say the metal we saw prior to the bearings and what we assumed were rod bearings, probably wasn't rod bearings. :|
What about the supercharger? That's not a new V3 type that has its own oil is it? My Vortech S-Trim ran oil from my sending unit & dumped into my oil pan. Any of the gears in the blower going...?
Nah this one has its own oil.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Oh see 25 yrs ago when i ran an S-Trim in my mustang they didn't. That sucks hope it turns out to be nothing! I'll be making a video of my car late spring or very beginning of summer! I have an 09 135i black on black 43 thousand original miles. Full bolt ons with a few other mice parts. Car rips! I'll hit you guys up if you're interested....👍🏁
That's rough, I would wait untill the results from castrol come back before driving the car hard or at all. Best of luck with it, I hope all turns out well.
I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. If you can be bothered remove cam covers and inspect for cam lobes. Change oil again and more often. Keep an eye on it.
Thanks for the tips!
Just a thought, did you pull and check the thrust bearing on the mains? Is this from the supercharger lube line? Have you taken any return lines off any oil lubed accessory and checked those?
We thought about checking the mains while it was apart but chose not to. The logic was, if there is an issue with them, the car wont be going back together as the crank needs to come out. We did do some research on main bearing failures and it seems very rare. Well i couldn't find any documented cases where mains had failed without the rod bearings failing first causing heat around the main. Figured it was pretty unlikely. But hey that doesnt mean its impossible.
Personally I'd check the timing chain and tensioner and guides, make sure your using the right oil. *IF* it was rod bearings, would it do any harm to just leave them and wait until anything happens that confirms its rod bearings, so if it knocks then you'd be pretty certain it's bearings. Also i have no experience with m5's so just guessing.
Was thinking a similar thing. If its something that wont damage the block in a failure or smash valves in to pistons, its a lot less stressfull.
E85? Did you use a moly based “assembly” lube? Ide run an engine flush through. Fresh oil, then 1000km and oil sample. What oil did you put in with new bearings?
That oil sample won’t really give you a true indication. Might get a hit on the metal but yeah. If you wanna run it a while and do a proper sample ie get it hot sample from sump buy pumping it out, I have a proper sample pump here.
Used the lube that come with the rod bearings. Can’t remember exactly what it was.
Completely agree about the sample. They are always a bit vague, just wanting to find out what metal that was in the pan. Then might be able to work out where it’s come from.
Don’t know anything about bmws but looks almost like hard facing. Do run anything between valve and cam? Have you had tappet cover off?
Timing chain guides just fall apart after a few years of hard driving it appears to be guide material
Well that sucks! If someone has fiddled with the chain then I’d suspect it is coming from a gear tooth or gear face. Perhaps it wasn’t reassembled properly and something is misaligned or become loose. If those black bits look like dirt I’d be swapping out that pod as well as oil contamination from the air it’s breathing is the last thing you want at this point.
Really hope it's some sort of residue, have you guys flushed the oil thoroughly then put new oil and filter in?
This is the 3rd oil change in 80klms of driving. New filter each time.
Might need a few more flushes, there's specific oil just for engine flushing, might help getting rid of all the crap.
This reminds me when during VCG change, I found out the belts had been shredded previously and ingested, chunks of it floating around in the oil. First thought was, that's it engines done for, but Mechanic managed to remove virtually all of it and the car still drives strong.
Chin up guys, hope for the best.
I can't say I'm experienced with the S62. I imagine with anything internally you'll have to bed them in.
It's been mentioned, it could be bits that were already in the engine. A few flushes may clear it.
I know how that feels when you put your heart & soul into the car, only to find theres a problem. It's disheartening to say the least.
Eather way, we car guys are dedicated people. We will overcome these obstacles when they arise. The car looks amazing. It could of easily ended being ripped apart and scrapped, but you've given her a new lease of life. It's just figuring out whats been done as with any modified car. Keep us posted...
Thanks man, we'll try and get to the bottom of it thats for sure.
This pieces might be from the valve covers they are magnesium They peal from the inside . This what I found out in my 540 but the M5 valve covers are made from the same material
Supercharger contaminating the oil?
Bit of a bummer guys. Maybe it's still residue. If that's not the problem , maybe the oil pump is not 100% anymore, and that's metal. Dutch regards, Nico.
Feel your pain dave all that work, but you still have a mint e39 m5 which not many folk can say. Just a thought but mibi drain oil cooler and flush it and does it drain cooler through sump or it got thermostat?? 👍🏴
The cooler is simply t-eed in to the oil going to the oil filter housing. Probably need to look in to that a little better
@@ZeroTo60Tube just thought it might stay full of oil while changing and that mite be source of metal???
I’m figuring it’s about time to do my guides on my 540. So if you guys end up doing yours, please make a nice detailed set of videos.
Realistically all you can do is send it off for inspection and hope for the best. Wishing you guys good fortune
Thanks man, if the guides dont get done on this we will probably do the M62 ones in the x5 in the next year.
Check the supercharger if oil go thru it , supercharger have bearings too .
They are seperate oil systems. But not a bad thought at all.
So.. if u end up removing the engine...
Just take out all oil line, soft and hard, oil cooler and such...
Clean them up with degreaser and pressure wash
The none magnetic flakes are from the bearings it’s the protective layer
🤞🏻 It's nothing serious, never knew you could send oil samples to castrol, that's pretty cool!
No time to watch at work, dropped a like and comment and left. Cheers boys
Appreciate the love none the less haha
Doesn't seem like bearin material to me guys I'd just wait till you oil analysis comes back and do some kms in the meantime and do another change once you get the results...
Yeah, the chunks in the filter seem like something other than bearings and really small particles in the oil, werent in the filter sooooo hmmmmmmmmm what could it be....
engine flush wouldn't hurt.
Also note that Nickel is also magnetic?
Good Luck
Hope it’s something fixable and not a more serious thing. Keep us informed.
Dave’s face says it all. Like your countryman sang, “Kicked in the teeth again.”
As I think about my locked up n55 I feel for you boys - at least it still runs gents and everything can be fixed - at least that what I am telling myself...
spoken like a true bmw owner 😅
What was it in the end?
We are still not sure. Rod bearings looked pretty good. Motor is still running fine currently. But something must be lurking
Do it got a aftermarket oil cooler ?
yes it does
What's your typical oil change interval? I do it every 5000 miles.
Cars like this and Andrews 335i that are running a reasonable state of tune over stock we will do every 2000-3000klms. Probably overkill, but its to try and catch an issue before it gets serious and then also to give the oil the best chance of working before breaking down. A stock car like daves 540i and say the X5 we would do every 10,000k's. The work van we tend to do when it starts smelling like it might be on fire haha.....
@@ZeroTo60Tube Poor ole van! 🤣
Good work, keep it up
Starting broken engine broke down, I guest someone tripping put on gas tank or using the wrong oil
Flush it 2 more times with a new filter before you jump the gun guides will show a tonne of metal
What happened w this engine after all?
Developed a coolant leak in the valley. It’s done about 1000ks since this. Still needs some love.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I take it the metal shavings were normal due to tear and west of internal components...!?
New bearings should be run in. There will definitely be wear as they mate to the crankshaft even if it plastigauged ok Fingers crossed thats all it is along with some residual shavings.
Did you ever figure out what it was?
We think it was timing chain hitting the timing cover, however not really sure.
There's a positive side to this more content
They can be quiet and go bad or they can slap and carry on for thousands of miles. they are odd engines sounding engines but once you do everything its bulletproof from what ive been told
I would flush it a few times with cheap oil. Just idle it for a bit, get it nice and hot then drain it. I think it's residual junk. Usually you get a fair bit of noise with bad guides. Bet of luck
She'll be right mate, just send it!
Vodka Helps with the nerve damage. But I will change the oil 5 times about 500 KM. Have a a magnet at the oil collector to see what it gets.
The black dots are sludge that is cleaned out.
Oh o..........ting ting ting....round two!
Next time you do an oil change, Drain the oil while hot then Fill the complete capacity less 2 liters and Fill the remaining 2 liters with diesel and let the car idle for 5min. Do Not rev it or drive it as the viscosity of the oil will be substantially lower. Just let it idle ( you can even just fill up with diesel if you really want a deep clean but then don't idle for that long, This has been done to death all around the world by thousands of mechanics for decades so its completely safe as long as you don't load the motor). while that oil is hot drain it, Don't let it cool. You want the oil to have as little viscosity as possible when draining to allow the most amount of oil to drain.
Then put new oil, New filter and drive the car for 45mins on a motor way at 120kph. Once you return drain that oil while hot then put new oil new filter and drive that for a week or so. Drain the oil again and see if it still has any flakes in it. This is basically how I have been doing oil changes for the past 4 years on my N54. When I took the tappet cover off recently it was like new inside the motor still and it has 144k km and it's heavily modified with hybrid turbos and methanol running 26psi of boost and is driven daily.
That is a very methodical way of doing changes. I really like it. How frequently do you change the oil in your N54?
@@ZeroTo60Tube Yea its quite a hectic way of changing oil and not the cheapest but it takes 3 - 4 oil changes in an N54 for the oil to drain out the engine the same colour it went in. It's amazing how much dirty oil is left in the engine when you do an oil change. I do my oil changes every 3000 - 5000km. If the car was stock I would leave the oil a bit longer but for me the most important thing in a modded turbocharged engine is oil as it reaches very high temps often which breaks the oil down fast, also the higher the boost the more blowby which contaminates the oil quickly too.
Camshafts could be flaking
Had timing chain guides done on my 535 E39 last month and for me it was audible chain slapping. Not loud. But definatly noticebable when you got close. definatly something worth looking into. Although i think Dave might be right about the bearings needing time to settle in after freshies are put in but ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ im no mechanic have no experience changing them. Also pain in the ass to change. Keen to see the video for that!!
Very probably is metal that is on the oil cooler,, flush everything, that engines have so much oil channels, cheap oil run 100 to 200km and change oil again with good oil and run 1000km and check again.
I’ve got a daily 94 civic that throws out 3 times as much metal shaving flakes than this bmw and I’ve put 60k miles on it since I noticed the shavings 😂
It’s got 236,000 on the clock … I didn’t see the video before this one as it says “more metal flakes found”
Obviously I’m not redlining my old commuter and it’s not supercharged … but it’s still kicking and with no knocks, tics or smoke 😂😂😂
Look on it as more quality content .You guys overcome and educate with alacrity.Keep On Keeping on ;) Show us how to do timing chains then they’re Done
I hate to be that person, but; come ≠ came. You guys say it almost every episode.
You know,i bought my car used qith 29k miles am now at 71k and had that glitter in oul since 29k has gotton more notice but so has my timmimg chain sound.mechanic going to drop oil pan amd tale a look at some things to see hat the next step is
Oh dang.. you lads have never looked so sad.. This doc lists all ferrous parts in your engine. www.meeknet.co.uk/E38/M62%20Engine%20Details.pdf.
Thanks for the link dude. It went to youtube spam filter but just found it. Shes a scary expensive engine this one.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Hey, know worries mate. Just trying to help you lads out. Yes.. e.g. certain pistons in that engine look the same but have different coatings. Best of luck with her. Any leads on what the ferrous material is yet?
@@joshbrennan8545 Not yet, we will defs update with a vid when we have some idea.
Inconclusive just send it.
ballsy