7 Things I Wish I Knew Before Resin Casting Alumilite
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ส.ค. 2024
- Use Coupon Code "WineCountry10" on Alumilite for a 10% discount!
The resin I use: www.alumilite.com/?oid=3&affi...
Shop my pen blanks and other blanks here: etsy.com/shop/winecountrywoodwork
or
www.winecountrywoodworks.com
Glow powders: www.turntex.com/wine-country-...
Color Shift & Holographic: www.turntex.com/wine-country-...
Interference and Others: www.turntex.com/wine-country-...
Tools I Use: winecountrywoodworks.com/page...
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My email for questions or business inquiries: casey@winecountrypens.com - บันเทิง
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Great advice Casey!
Thanks man great video. I love learning from the trial and errors of others. I really appreciate that there were many quick bits of knowledge and not a bunch of rambling on!
Thanks for taking time out of your busy day to make this really helpful video! I’m just getting into resin casting and I really appreciate the advice
Top tips from the top, Casey! Many thanks for passing on your knowledge! 🇬🇧
This video is so helpful thank you Soo much! I'm making an important piece so I don't wanna mess it up and this has been the most informative one I've seen!
Thank you for your tips and tricks, this is helping me learn!
Awesome bunch of "wish I had known that" tips. Nice job and well presented. If the opportunity presents itself maybe you could do a vid on what the technique is for swirling and what the resin should look like at the 6min mark.
Thanks for sharing this Casey. I got my blanks that I ordered and the one that I won, money blank. Thanks. But it inspired me to try blank making. And your answer about doing the swirling late into the open time is exactly what I needed. Thanks
Great to hear David! Feel free to shoot me a picture of whatever you make with the money blank cause I’d love to see!
Casey Martin will do, thanks!!
Thanks, I like it so much that I sent a link to myself. Lol 😜
You can't always find your bookmarked video. Well not if you have as many as I do anyway. Now I double my chances.
Could you do a video on making the mold rack that you mentioned in the video? Thanks. Great video for people getting into casting. I’ll get there some day.
Great bunch of tips! You're right about almost nothing sticking to HDPE. One thing about it, though, is it can creep, or sag, especially at higher temperatures, much more than mdf. So for some things you might want to have HDPE on top, but wood or metal underneath for support.
Thank you, Casey. Great advice!!
Super helpful! Thank you!
Good job, Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the great tips. I hope to start casting in near future as soon as I collect the equipment I need . Thanks again.
Thanks for all your helpful tips..
Great video. Thanks for this.
Appreciated. Very informative.
Nice, Casey... good info.
Hi Casey thanks for the tips.
Anytime Mark!
Thanks for this! Next time examples would be really helpful.
Excellent video!
Good tips, thanks Casey
Of course Kevin glad I can help everyone who has supported me!
Wish I'd known about the sanding the alumilite before adding more.....I've not cut up and turned that bock yet but it did not look right when i took it out of the pressure pot....oh well, lesson learned. Great tips - Thanks. Scott
Hey Scott glad I could help. I’d still recommend cutting it up and trying to turn one. You just may have to add thin CA throughout the process, that’s all.
Thanks for tips
Greats from holland
Great tips thanks for sharing
Hey Casey, thanks for the tips. If possible I'm looking for a little advice, my casts using this resin, it's curing and is not sticky or tacky but the cast is bendy and soft enough to dig a fingernail in, any advice?
Can I use Epoxy Resin on my glass top using a blow torch.
Good tips thanks!
Thanks for the tips man
Glad to help Nick!
Hey i was wondering if you have any tips on casting stuff with closed molds. I tried casting doll shoes using amazing mold rubber and the mold came out great but when casting the shoes it turned out sticky even tho i let them cure for 2 days... i even tried to paint them and i have to build up a lot of layers and even the paint cracked over time..also is there another cheaper alternative to dyeing resing?
good tips, thanks. Unfortunately Alumilite is out of my budget but I'm sure the same applies to cheaper brands.
Thanks and stay safe.
Thanks Casey.
Will water based food color work with cactus juice?
Right on, Casey. I've run into some of these myself. Have you poured by measuring temperature for separation? I have not but want to try it. Not sure of the temp and also concerned about bubbles in waiting that long on larger pours like 40 OZ.
Good vid,
Lee
I have not Lee, but I think that has a lot to do with it. Because when the Alumilite gets to that point I can feel it getting warm in my hand
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for tips.i seem to be getting bubbles an heat is making it worse.any vice would be appreciated.
I'd like to see a demo on the casting racks, Thanks for sharing
I have a video on it!
Try to product Goop, to remove resin from clothes. Pre-soak just like Shout, use a toothbrush or similar to scrub, then wash normally. Multiple attempts may be necessary or longer soak. I have gotten most of some epoxy paint out of my clothes. No guarantees, and there is white vinegar too
I will have to try that! I just have a collection of older ugly clothes I wouldn’t really wear out of the house but are perfect for the shop lol
You mentioned not all wood require stabilization. Can you mention few please? Also I don't need to put my pieces on a lathe but simply intend on immersing wood pieces in resin. Wouldn't it suffice to just put a clear coat of resin on the wood piece first, have it cure and then continue with the resin casting?
I love your videos. Thanks so much for all of them!!!
Australian burls like the mallee burls, coolibah, etc are very dense and don’t need it really. And yes that would work fine for your purposes
@@CaseyMartin707 Thanks so much Casey! Total life saver!
Glad I could help Lola!
Good look
Thank's a lot for your Tips Martin! Great job 👍. What do you think about Alumilite Clear Slow? They say, that it has 12 minutes open time. Do you have some experience with this product?
It works just fine and just like my normal Alumilite it just takes a little longer to cure. I usually don’t have a lot of time and want it to cure faster so that’s why I use regular, but tons of people use slow!
Your so adorable . . .
Thanks for the tips...
*You're
Thanks for the info. I’m starting to get into casing and looking for any info I can get. I subscribed.
Good info
Just subbed..👍👍👍
Can I use their molds to cast a threaded object? Or will i need to just machine it. I want to cast a clear object. Basically just a hollow tube with threaded ends
Yes but I’m sure there’s a limit on how small you can go. I’ve seen a nut and bolt cast in their silicone and then their resin used in that mold. If you reached out to them I’m sure they could tell you
I am using the Alumilite AC-3 tan. Can you tell me what dyes you would recommend or what dying process to use to get highlighter/fluorescent colors?
I have never used that. Does it cure tan or clear? If tan then I have no idea how to get fluorescent. If clear, Alumilite has florescent dyes they sell on their site. I only use Alumilite dyes myself. Best of luck my friend!
Dry, porous wood can release bubbles while it's soaking into the wood causing the resin to actually fluff a bit and be cloudy like the inside of an ice cube.
That’s almost certainly from moisture in my experience. I’ve never had wood that has 0% moisture have bubbles when it’s under pressure.
Thanks for tips gonna subscribe to u now 👍
What kind of pressure pot do you use or recommend
I have a couple videos on the topic if you go through my channel. I use a few. Zac Higgins also just posted a great video on the topic and what he recommends. I stand by everything he says in that video too.
Hey Casey, or anyone that uses Alumilite. Have you ever had issues with it foaming up too much when put in a pressure pot, or when you have mixed in Micah powder or glow powder? I have had 2 fails on the same project. Following alumilite slow clear directions to a T. weighing and double checking, letting each side sit to de-gas (especially the part B which had the powders mixed in), mixing for about 2 minutes with paddle mixer on slow. First time used pressure pot as suggested only for about 2 minutes, didn't even get it poured halfway before it gelled. Second time did everything the same minus the pressure pot. bubbled all to hell especially when I tried to ribbon in the second color at end of pot life. Any suggestions on what is going on. only 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick pour.
Sounds like it could be a moisture problem, or you’re not getting it into your pressure pot soon enough. If it’s hot where you are try to get it in the pot around 5 minutes. If you’re pouring it with wood it needs to be 0% moisture. I made a video on moisture and that could help.
After reading your comment again, you need to have the resin under pressure for at least 3 hours to be safe. The resin takes hours to cure. Putting it under pressure for 2 minutes won’t do anything at all, bubbles will just come up. Also I would never recommend mixing in powders before you mix A and B together. You’re never going to know if you’ve fully mixed A and B and there’s no striations and cloudiness unless it’s clear. I would recommend to do it in the method I do so you know for sure it’s mixed and then add your colors, then put it in the pressure pot for 3 hours. If you do that and get it in there within 5 minutes of mixing the A and B I doubt you’ll have any problems. You’d probably be fine under 7-9 mins with slow set but to eliminate all variables try a small test pour and get it in quick.
@@CaseyMartin707 thanks, I'll try it that way when I do another small pour project.
How do you stabilise the wood, just ordered resin and going to have first go......
Look at cactus juice. You would need a vacuum chamber.
To stabilize wood, you need to use actual stabilizing resin. So be sure that's what you have. Then you pour enough of it into a vacuum chamber to cover the wood you're going to use. Weight the wood down if you need to because it needs to be fully covered. Then you turn on the chamber and let it run until NO air is coming out of the wood. Take the wood and set it aside to fully dry. Save the resin you still have in the pot/chamber, it can be used over and over. The wood will have to sit for a few days to a week at the least depending on the size of it, so that the resin in the center will be fully hardened.
A how to on building on you're own working vacuum chamber.
th-cam.com/video/bv3tYR4ROBs/w-d-xo.html
what type of saw blade do u use to cut wood/alumilite for knife scales
Diablo ultra fine finish. But any blade will work fine. I use it so I don’t have to sand my pen blanks after
@@CaseyMartin707 thanks !! i think you have some of the best videos on casting. i have learn alot . it's amazing how many people making these videos gloss over the point that you have to wait until the open time is almost done before putting your resin into a mold for best color separation..
Can you share your source for casting alumilite epoxy resin please?
I used to buy from Alumilite.com but now I buy from turntex.com for the faster shipping
you mentioned sanding when adding another layer of alumilite, do you actually sand the cured alumilite to make a rougher surface right?
Yes, sand the cured
HGP or HDP?? Or did I miss hear you?
HDPE Plastic
Thank you!
9:03 so your advice is to do all casting naked?
Most of your Presentation makes Sense, Why use a Pressure Pot, when Vacuum will remove Air Bubbles that may be generated by Mixing.!! ... Thanks
Alumilite starts curing in 7 minutes. Vacuum can’t pull out all the bubbles in that amount of time. Pressure forces the bubbles to be microscopic to the point where the human eye can’t see them. This happens instantly when pressurized.
Thanks.!!
Check out stone coat countertop and their videos
I’m good friends with Greg Dahl who does a lot of work with them. I personally don’t ever use epoxy products or really would ever want/need to. For a river table I’ve used it but that’s the only time I would
Hey Casey. Can I just start of by saying a massive thank you for all your videos! They've been a massive help so far. I am looking to start a project, producing resin/wood jewellery, mainly necklaces and pendants and mainly as a hobby but one that will hopefully turn a profit and we'll see where it goes from there. If you check out facebook.com/BoldBDesign/?ref=br_rs or www.artfulresin.com/ you'll be able to see the sort of stuff I’m looking to produce. I know it's slightly different to pens you produce but I’m guessing much of the process is the same. I just wanted to get in touch and ask for any advice you many have with process and supplies. I've watched a lot of your vids and got some great info but I thought it can't hurt to send a message. Specifically, any advice on best products for translucent colours and effects such as iridescence, purulence and colour distortion as well as process and products for finishing the products to give them that glassy, quality finish. I’m looking to capture interesting colours and effects in the pieces that respond well to light. Also, would you advise using Epoxy or Alumilite for this sort of thing? Like I said any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Thanks, good tips but a lot of filler talk, would enjoy it more if I didn’t have to constantly skip
Use plastic for the mold and dont get it on ur cloths the rest is babel !!!
Vocs? The smell?
No VOCS with alumilite and it is odorless
@@CaseyMartin707 thank you so much !!!!
why is this 15 year old wearing a wedding ring?
I’m actually 11 thank you very much