Easy Way to Change or Upgrade Your BambuLab P1P Nozzle
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ม.ค. 2023
- In this video I show you step by step how to change your BambuLab P1P nozzle. I switched out my .4mm nozzle for a .6 for even FASTER prints!
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video opens on a closeup of the relevant part and starts with "first thing you gotta do is" - followed by detailed concise instructions. Great job!
so refreshing for a video to get straight to the point without unnecessary intros and begging to like and subscribe because the algorithm blah blah blah. Thank you, it was very helpful. (Liked and subscribed because you earned it}.
Although everyone should be aware that at 3:10, they tried to put the clip on incorrectly, and instead of telling everyone, they cut to a shot of it added correctly. Doing it their way can damage the thermistor.
That's what I was going to say! No scratch screen. No "hello everyone", or bs talk talk. Just straight to the point! Bravo for that.
@@hippopotamus86 yeah I almost got it wrong end it's easy to miss it but since you went that far an have it in front of you it's not hard to figure out how it goes back in. I mean the clip itself is self explanatory - leaving room for the cable.
@@chrisradical2046 You say that but another TH-camr put it on wrong on an offbrand hotend while complaining that they didn't make a clip for the specific hotend. It would have fit if they turned it the other way around.
Just changed .02 to my Bambu, thanks this was useful!
I would point out that, for approximately $20 difference, it might also be convenient and safe to take the Complete Hotend Assembly.
Yeah I was thinking of grabbing a variety of nozzles but after 1.5 minute I figured it'd be much easier, faster and lower risk to get a set of additional assemblies and only change the nozzle if it has issues 😅
I was thinking the same. That looks too risky for me.
Definetly. And you have some spare parts as a bonus with the ease of use.
fucking nightmare assembling this piece of shit
this is the type of content and structure I like, thanks for the video
Prusa has a gigantic opportunity here with nozzle changes.
E3d revo
0:00 straight into it. Love it
Thank you for a great and quick video... Love all the people that show how to do the simple assembled unit. You took the time to show how to just change the hot end. I appreciate it!!
thank you. holy shit that was a pain in the ass though
thank you very much for this video ;)
Thanks for the very thorough step by step. I'm about to print some marble filament for the first time on my P1S and wanted to know how to remove the nozzle if it clogs as it did on a different printer. You mentioned a retraction flow. How do you identify a retraction flaw? Thanks. Liked and subbed up and commented.
Had first layer issues P1P with pei and bambu filament after a dozen prints.
Got a .6 nozzle
Fingers cossed
Thanks for the vid
It's because they make it so you have to use glue. It's not that bad, it actually doesn't even show up in the print
@@maximuschapman7760 I never used glue on my P1P. Only time I had issues with first layer was when initially I didn't pick the right plate type in Bambu Studio or I would use prints that had small contact area and would really require a brim, but I used no brim for whatever reason. Other times, using textured PEI plate and official Bambu filament or some other filament I had no issues with PLA or PETG.
I will just buy the full assembly or buy the heater/thermistor and put them permanently on a nozzle.
Same, while not that big of a deal to assemble it all, with the entire assembly you get spare fans etc if really needed.
No one gives a fuck what you're going to do.
The A1 ruined me, because this looks like too much work lol. I’m just gonna keep the stainless one on 😂
A1 is better? Quicker?
Good video, but I had a problem. When I removed the thermal cable from the nozzle, the cable broke because it was stuck in the hole so tightly that I couldn't pull it out. Now I can't use the printer until I receive the new delivery from Bambulab. What is your solution to unplug stuck thermal sensors?
How often do you need to do this ?
Is this the same on the p1S ? Ty
Is there any advantage of the normal steel nozzle versus the hardened one ? They cost the same, so I can install the hardened one and forget about the normal?
Crazy that they used a stainless steel one. Nobody uses those and they are the same price.
Do u need to run a nozzle calibration or anything?
I have a Carbon X1 and the original .4 nozzle. I just got a .6 nozzle but when I sliced it in Bambu Studio the .4 was often faster than the .6! Apparently it's tweeted for .4. Your video shows a significant savings in time (like my Prusa does when I use the .6) but my slices show otherwise. Any thoughts on real world .6 nozzle times and usage after your
last few weeks?
He sliced the 0.4 at 0.2 layer height and the 0.6 at 0.3 layer height. The layer height accounts for ALL of the time savings.
@@petercallison5765 Extrusion width also makes a really big difference (at least with conventional machines and slicers) Extrusion width, is typically 120% of the nozzle size.
Hi Philip, I was thinking of buying a p1p and doing some tests with Bambu Studio I noticed the same thing.
I am not very experienced and can't figure out if they use more conservative speed settings for flow rate limits or cooling, what do you think?
As soon as the input shaper for Prusa MK4 is made official I will do some testing with Prusa Slicer, the Prusa is slower anyway but I find it interesting, if effective, to work on the timings by changing the nozzle.
how ofter would you need to change the nozzle?
I've been watching videos on lithophanes and they say to use a .2 nozzle. I had no idea swapping nozzles was such a huge hassle.
Thats really easy! You should have tried it on older Prusa Models
For other printers, its not. Its just unscrewing and screwing a new nozzle in
It's not usually this difficult. Bambu also sells the nozzles already assembled, so it's usually 2 screws, unhook wires, put the new nozzle on, put the 2 screws back in, plug the new nozzle wires in, good to go. Very simple. The nozzle in the video is not pre-assembled, which they also sell, they're just cheaper than already assembled nozzles. The price difference is so minimal that it's worth just getting a pre assembled nozzle.
I actually find it easier than trying to change the nozzle on my Ender 3 since I don't have to preheat the nozzle, and no worries about if the new nozzle is fitting snug, etc etc.
Why did you said you had an x1 carbon when you used a p1p?
I saw the same issue lol
Are the nozzles always a complete assembly change? That seems really inconvenient - especially if the nozzles are brass instead of hardened steel.
This is not brass, this is stainless steel, but not hardened. Still it will print a lot more than brass one.
Really? I feel like it's MORE convenient to just change the whole assembly. Why?
1) don't have to worry about heating up the hotend to hot-tighten the nozzle when you change it.
2) don't have to worry about getting a good grip on both the nozzle AND the heater block when trying to tighten the nozzle (like on my Ender 3 S1 Pro) so you don't twist something that shouldn't be twisted.
3) since the Bambu automatically retracts the filament when printing is done, as far as I'm aware, don't have to even worry about doing that prior to switching to a larger/smaller nozzle.
Is there anyway just to replace the metal tip without going through this crazy process?
The Ceramic heater will NOT come off of mine, I'm afraid to pull on the wiring. :( Not sure what I can do at this point.
Sell the printer to someone else who isn't retarded.
what size nozzle is the original. I use 1.75 filament
It comes with 0.4 nozzle.
When and why would you want to use the .6mm nozzle?
Nevermind, I watched the whole video and I guess you change it to increase the printing time. Good one :-)
@@doctorpd1959 jesus christ
You would also use it with wood or carbon fiber to prevent clogs.
Like Peter said, .6mm is recommended for "infused" filaments to prevent clogging. Also to help decrease overall print time as you said. But unless you regularly print at sub-.2mm layer heights on a .4mm nozzle, you won't really notice a quality change at .3mm layer height on a .6mm nozzle. one tenth of a millimeter is almost LITERALLY a hairs bredth.
The title says P1P and in the video you said X1 Carbon. Which is it?
I don't think it matters at all. They both seem to have the same process for swapping hotends/nozzles
it would be probably easier (if you need to change it a lot) to keep it as a bundle with the fan, etc and just switch those :)
You have p1p not x1c?
Just buy the whole assembly and you're done easy as that. You forgot to cut the filament before removing it.
You changed not only the nozzle diameter from 0.4 to 0.6, but also the layer height from 0.2 to 0.3. Most of the saved time is due to the layer height. Still awesome video and very detailed and professional explanation!
And final quality print is always so horrible? 😅
Wait is this the nozzle vhange procedure? This is wayyyyy too slow and hard
not gonna lie the final print looked pretty poor, and you printed on a P1P and not an X1C as stated. Not that it matters, just noticed these things.
to komplicaqtit
Obnoxious that the thermistor and ceramic heater are part of the same unit on the P1P. One dies? Replace both for double the price. Yippee. And of course this is the one item they don't include a spare for in the box. :(
One of the reasons I barely use my Bambu P1P and now 99% of the time use my Flashforge Adventurer 5M. Its way to much work to just change a nozzle on the Bambu, My Flashforge is just a flip a clip and take out the nozzle
you didnt change the "nozzle" which is what i was here for.. all you did was change the hot end...
What an awful nozzle design.
lmao ok..
This isn't the "easy way " this is how it's done by bambu directions.
Are you that needy for views?