Easy to follow, thanks for the video. Mine was embedded in plastic and impossible to disassemble. I had to put it back on the printer and heated it up to 85C until I could work a pick under the plastic to work it all free. Was just barely cool enough to handle and using the pick gently I was able to peel it all free and swap it out.
This is great information! I need to swap my nozzle after only 5 days of printing! The nozzle got clogged using the default Generic PETG profile (with Prusament PETG). Bambu Lab was also very forward thinking by including nozzle clog clearing tools with the printer, though I also used these incorrectly and seemingly made the clog worse. They even included a spare nozzle! It's like until knew exactly what was going to happen. I'm very impressed.
Thanks. This was very helpful! I have the set of complete hot-ends for normal nozzle size swapping, but my .2 nozzle got hopelessly clogged and your video was perfect. Took the nozzle off/apart, replaced it, the thermistor, and heating element for good measure, and back in business. Its a little messy but it works!
I dont even have the printer yet but i'm used to taking stuff apart and putting it back together because I do that weekly with controllers and conskles :D I'm so ready for this hobby it's insane!
Got P1S yesterday. did this today morning. First time doing something like this and it was actually pretty easy, I only used hex key and toothpick for thermal paste lol. Idk why they put 0.2 as standart hot end yeah it's super clean but not for everyday prints imo
Great video. I bought a spare hotend and had to replace it for the first time last night. I'll probably just order the nozzle since I have spare full hotend to work with. Your video was so very helpful.
Can I just unscrew the nozzle itself and replace lit like on the ender 3? The nozzles only cost less than one buck and I want to do the same with P1P. If not then are there any mods that help me?
Happy new year! Officially here in the UK anyway lol. Just done this on the stroke of midnight, proper party lol. Thanks for saving me with a worn nozzle replacing with the x1c spare! Cheers.
ive had my p1s for going on about 3 months now maybe alittle long but ive not changed the nozzle it came with yet an i was thinking about swapping the spare it came with out for the one its been using but part of me wants to order a couple different sized nozzles an a hole hotend assembly cause i have nothing on hand to fix it if something happens to it so i think im going to buy up a few extra hole assembly b4 i try to swap my first one. i got a bunch of stuff for my other printers but ive not picked anything up for my bambu labs yet mainly cause i have to buy directly instead of being able to pick it all up on amazon.
the bambulab x1c has a pwm fan. so 4 wires one for power one ground one to sense speed and one pwm. the p1p with 2 wires would be on at the speed the fan is designed to
Good video, now I'm glad that I just got the complete assembly, I think it is worth the extra, especially if you want to swap often. I also suggest you have extra bolts on hand, I lost one somewhere inside the X1 Carbon one of the times I was swapping, never could find it.
My ideal setup is to have the nozzles I use all be full assemblies and have a spare of each size as a bare hotend. So I can swap the nozzles as I want but I have a spare for if and when they wear or get damaged somehow.
So did I blink at the wrong moment, or did this video have nothing to do with changing the nozzle, but rather just how to reapply thermal paste to a replacement hot end???
Just did this for the first time, nerve racking as hell, lol. It wasn't that bad. My .4mm nozzle died, broke off, and had to do this with the extra one they sent, move everything over. I just ordered all the sizes, one made up and then a $15 replacement for a spare. I only have a .4mm and a .2mm made up so it cost me like $140 bucks but I already wanted the two larger sizes for a huge project I'm printing now.
After the swap my printer says nozzle temp is abnormal the sensor may use an open circuit. The temp of the zozzle displays zero but it's hot to the touch
Sounds like your thermistor is not wired properly or is broken. I would check that all the wires are properly put into the board and seated good. Also check that no wires are pinched or anything on the hot end..
I just took the hot end assembly apart to make sure I followed the directions to a T. I checked the connectors to make sure the connection was tight to the board . I removed the square metal thing on the nozzle to check the copper wires to the hole and make sure it's not pinched . I'm kinda lost now . I made sure to look at the wiring to see if there was damage and I didn't see any . The calibration fails almost immediately and the self test too
Would you mind helping me out ? I could email pictures of my setup and maybe you can see what the hell is going on . My printer has been down for a few weeks . I got it a week before Christmas and printed beautifully until the first nozzle clogged up and I found this video on hot to do the swap . It's so frustrating
yeah see here's the thing though...its offset by the fact that it's the only printer that you can buy that shows up, and works flawlessly from the start. being able to print so finely that when tuned properly, there's literally not even visible print lines for some filaments. ive found on multiple occasions that files i was printing actually wound up being out of spec because they were designed around printers with larger margins of error, and the bambu was printing it with damn near pixel perfect accuracy. i had to edit STL's on occasion for designs that were integrated with precision machined metal parts because it was capable of achieving such ridiculously tight tolerances. im here on this video right now because this is the first and only repair ive ever had to do on it after extensive use. do you know how much ive put through it in that time? 56. 56 rolls of PLA+ with the only issues ive ever had being caused by being lazy about cleaning the glue off the baseplate often enough. ((i use a proprietary mix of elmers and bottled water, secret recipe.)) it cost me $14.99. i pulled out 3 connectors, removed 4 screws, and applied thermal paste. if that's wrong, i don't wanna be right.
This is why I have a complete horned setup for .2, .4, and .6 which makes my swaps happen in under 5 min which is awesome compared to the process I had to go through on my Anycubic Chiron. I also have spare hotends for the chance I get a clog that cannot be cleared or the end gets damaged in some way… but either which way I would rather work on my P1S than the hassle it takes to work on my Chiron.
I stopped this tedious procedure since I bought a hotend with removable nozzle, just lower the bed, screw off the nozzle, screw on new nozzle at 260C, done
dear god what a pain in the ass. I've got a Revo CR on my ender 3 and I can change nozzles with just my fingers and doesn't require any thermal paste. I change nozzle from print to print. This is an absolute nightmare comparatively. A 0.6 might be a decent middle ground, but I love being able to jump to a 0.8 nozzle when printing brackets or large prints with no fine detail. It makes those prints stronger too.
when i see things like this i know we are not destined to go to space and have never been to the moon. Why things are designed like this is fustrating. But I get, money. If everything was perfectly designed you could not make money. Why my fridge from the 90s is still working. SMH
Guy didn’t even unscrew the nozzle. They’re threaded therefore replaceable. I wanted to see someone unthread and thread a new one in. thanks for nothing
Easy to follow, thanks for the video. Mine was embedded in plastic and impossible to disassemble. I had to put it back on the printer and heated it up to 85C until I could work a pick under the plastic to work it all free. Was just barely cool enough to handle and using the pick gently I was able to peel it all free and swap it out.
This is great information! I need to swap my nozzle after only 5 days of printing! The nozzle got clogged using the default Generic PETG profile (with Prusament PETG).
Bambu Lab was also very forward thinking by including nozzle clog clearing tools with the printer, though I also used these incorrectly and seemingly made the clog worse.
They even included a spare nozzle! It's like until knew exactly what was going to happen. I'm very impressed.
Thanks. This was very helpful! I have the set of complete hot-ends for normal nozzle size swapping, but my .2 nozzle got hopelessly clogged and your video was perfect. Took the nozzle off/apart, replaced it, the thermistor, and heating element for good measure, and back in business. Its a little messy but it works!
You had me at 1:47... Complete Hotend ordered... LOL
I dont even have the printer yet but i'm used to taking stuff apart and putting it back together because I do that weekly with controllers and conskles :D I'm so ready for this hobby it's insane!
Possibly the easiest thing I have ever done. Couldn’t have made it any simpler to follow. Thank you 🙏
Thanks, good advice. I'll probably just get 1-2 more fully assembled and swap tips for further options
Excellent video. I watched it once and followed it through whilst changing the nozzle. Thank you so much.
Got P1S yesterday. did this today morning. First time doing something like this and it was actually pretty easy, I only used hex key and toothpick for thermal paste lol. Idk why they put 0.2 as standart hot end yeah it's super clean but not for everyday prints imo
Great video. I bought a spare hotend and had to replace it for the first time last night. I'll probably just order the nozzle since I have spare full hotend to work with. Your video was so very helpful.
Really, really helpful video. Just finished putting a 0.2 on my X1C. Thanks!
Cheers, Jim. Now I have the X1 Carbon that I didn’t need, but wanted, this video will come in handy! 😊
Can I just unscrew the nozzle itself and replace lit like on the ender 3? The nozzles only cost less than one buck and I want to do the same with P1P. If not then are there any mods that help me?
Does the slicer automatically change speed / flow (optimize) settings once you select the 0.2 nozzle? Im on X1C
Thanks, Jim. My nozzle just crashed into my part and bent it. Swapped out with the extra they gave me with this video 🙂
Thanks for the info, my two day old X1C clogged up and I couldn't unclog it following a few posted ways. ?
Thank you! I knew you would have the video I needed for my first hotend swap. Love your easy to follow tutorials!
I just have to say, this video f*ing rocks. Thank you for no bs and the great explanation and shots of how to do this
Love the video! I just changed mine today right before this video.
Happy new year! Officially here in the UK anyway lol. Just done this on the stroke of midnight, proper party lol. Thanks for saving me with a worn nozzle replacing with the x1c spare! Cheers.
I did it! Really appreciate you!
ive had my p1s for going on about 3 months now maybe alittle long but ive not changed the nozzle it came with yet an i was thinking about swapping the spare it came with out for the one its been using but part of me wants to order a couple different sized nozzles an a hole hotend assembly cause i have nothing on hand to fix it if something happens to it so i think im going to buy up a few extra hole assembly b4 i try to swap my first one. i got a bunch of stuff for my other printers but ive not picked anything up for my bambu labs yet mainly cause i have to buy directly instead of being able to pick it all up on amazon.
Hey Jim, thanks for the video. Good information here. Question, why does the P1P only have two wires? It would seem all three would be needed.
Hey Scott! I am not sure. haha
the bambulab x1c has a pwm fan. so 4 wires one for power one ground one to sense speed and one pwm. the p1p with 2 wires would be on at the speed the fan is designed to
Thanks for this video. Bambu couldda made the hot end swap more finicky (the wires! really?), but they would've had to work on it.
Good video, now I'm glad that I just got the complete assembly, I think it is worth the extra, especially if you want to swap often. I also suggest you have extra bolts on hand, I lost one somewhere inside the X1 Carbon one of the times I was swapping, never could find it.
My ideal setup is to have the nozzles I use all be full assemblies and have a spare of each size as a bare hotend. So I can swap the nozzles as I want but I have a spare for if and when they wear or get damaged somehow.
I subscribe and. Bookmark this video 😎👍🏻🍀
So did I blink at the wrong moment, or did this video have nothing to do with changing the nozzle, but rather just how to reapply thermal paste to a replacement hot end???
that's how you change the nozzle in these things lol
This dumbass could've made a video about changing hotend to a screw nozzle but no, they gotta be dumb
Welcome to the bambu world where terms from the rest of the industry mean nothing.
The nozzle for a bambu is the whole metal piece they last for quite a while so I think this process is worth it
yeah, I totally don't get it either. was that the new nozzle?
Is that amount of thermal paste needed ? Had to dissasemble mine because a clog on the extruder and was almost dry.
You always want thermal paste as thin as possible. So no, use less than in this video.
Now, what exactly is the thermal compound they use?
soo, no option for tungsten nozzle for Carbon fiber filaments? That bumps the price of CF frinting quite high when you need nozzle per spool...
Just did this for the first time, nerve racking as hell, lol. It wasn't that bad. My .4mm nozzle died, broke off, and had to do this with the extra one they sent, move everything over. I just ordered all the sizes, one made up and then a $15 replacement for a spare. I only have a .4mm and a .2mm made up so it cost me like $140 bucks but I already wanted the two larger sizes for a huge project I'm printing now.
After the swap my printer says nozzle temp is abnormal the sensor may use an open circuit.
The temp of the zozzle displays zero but it's hot to the touch
Sounds like your thermistor is not wired properly or is broken. I would check that all the wires are properly put into the board and seated good. Also check that no wires are pinched or anything on the hot end..
I just took the hot end assembly apart to make sure I followed the directions to a T. I checked the connectors to make sure the connection was tight to the board . I removed the square metal thing on the nozzle to check the copper wires to the hole and make sure it's not pinched . I'm kinda lost now . I made sure to look at the wiring to see if there was damage and I didn't see any .
The calibration fails almost immediately and the self test too
Would you mind helping me out ? I could email pictures of my setup and maybe you can see what the hell is going on . My printer has been down for a few weeks . I got it a week before Christmas and printed beautifully until the first nozzle clogged up and I found this video on hot to do the swap . It's so frustrating
@@xslayerizedx Sure! I can try to help. Shoot me an email.
@TheEdgeofTech thank you , how do I get your email ?
What happens when the thermistor has welded itself into the hole?
Short, sweet, to the point. Love it!
Jim I have seen a kit for an enclosure for the P1P, is it possible to fit and use the replacement X1C high temperature nozzle on the P1P?
Great video. Thanks made swapping super simple.
Thanks really helpful!
this is a ridiculous amount of effort to change a nozzle. pretty negligent of Bambu to not design a user-friendly way to swap the nozzle
yeah see here's the thing though...its offset by the fact that it's the only printer that you can buy that shows up, and works flawlessly from the start. being able to print so finely that when tuned properly, there's literally not even visible print lines for some filaments.
ive found on multiple occasions that files i was printing actually wound up being out of spec because they were designed around printers with larger margins of error, and the bambu was printing it with damn near pixel perfect accuracy. i had to edit STL's on occasion for designs that were integrated with precision machined metal parts because it was capable of achieving such ridiculously tight tolerances.
im here on this video right now because this is the first and only repair ive ever had to do on it after extensive use. do you know how much ive put through it in that time?
56. 56 rolls of PLA+ with the only issues ive ever had being caused by being lazy about cleaning the glue off the baseplate often enough. ((i use a proprietary mix of elmers and bottled water, secret recipe.))
it cost me $14.99. i pulled out 3 connectors, removed 4 screws, and applied thermal paste. if that's wrong, i don't wanna be right.
It’s not negligence if they sell, full, hot and assemblies. I was just trying to get people to buy more from them.
They fixed this on the A1
you can also just buy the full hotend assembly and it takes like five seconds to change out
This is why I have a complete horned setup for .2, .4, and .6 which makes my swaps happen in under 5 min which is awesome compared to the process I had to go through on my Anycubic Chiron. I also have spare hotends for the chance I get a clog that cannot be cleared or the end gets damaged in some way… but either which way I would rather work on my P1S than the hassle it takes to work on my Chiron.
Guess the whole assembly is a better plan?
Mako is working on releasing a hotend for the bambu lab printers that allow unscrewable nozzles
I don’t have one of these but plan to print glow in the dark on a p1s 😅
Pain in the ass compared to my old Creality printers, looks like
Excellent. Thank you for another great video!
Really well laid out. Thanks
Guess the wobbly desk stuck around for one more video 😂
After hours of struggle: that's it, now you're done.
Am I trippen or did we go from "nozzle change" to a "how to apply thermal paste" video... Skipping over the nozzle part?
Thank you! That was easier than i though :)
Thanks G
I stopped this tedious procedure since I bought a hotend with removable nozzle, just lower the bed, screw off the nozzle, screw on new nozzle at 260C, done
"Checkout this video right here"
Why is it when people say that the video is never there?
dear god what a pain in the ass. I've got a Revo CR on my ender 3 and I can change nozzles with just my fingers and doesn't require any thermal paste. I change nozzle from print to print. This is an absolute nightmare comparatively. A 0.6 might be a decent middle ground, but I love being able to jump to a 0.8 nozzle when printing brackets or large prints with no fine detail. It makes those prints stronger too.
now i understand why they sell them complete
Why does this video have so many dislikes? I didnt have a problem with it, thanks for being helpful.
This is bs. I did it this exact way and somehow got a nozzle temp abnormal error. Uhggg 🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️. All for trying to switch to a .2 nozzle
Yeah, for $15 more bucks, Ill just get a whole new hotend.
Hi i am wanho d6 , its very nice typ for hotend , irs very paste , , de past its from pc performenc its for reper , Bravo for Video😂😂😂😂❤❤
Complete hot end it is
yeah im not going to do this ever
its not to bad to do once you do it a few times you dont need the pliers you can do it all by hand in about 5 mins
Is a nice ❤
Everything was glued together on mine :/
HUH? When was the nozzle changed??? You just took the parts off one and put them back on.
The "nozzle" is the whole hotend that he swopped out.
Soul Glo
That's too much work to be practical.
Of course, if you're staying with the new hot end,
then it's not a problem.
when i see things like this i know we are not destined to go to space and have never been to the moon. Why things are designed like this is fustrating. But I get, money. If everything was perfectly designed you could not make money. Why my fridge from the 90s is still working. SMH
Please just show the hotend with the screws... Please just show the hotend with the screws... Please just show the hotend with the screws... FUCK
Guy didn’t even unscrew the nozzle. They’re threaded therefore replaceable. I wanted to see someone unthread and thread a new one in. thanks for nothing
These ones aren't. They're machined as a single piece. You can't unscrew it.