Electronic distributor is a game changer. You won’t regret it. I threw one on mine and it transformed it. Also I’ve timed it properly and used a colour tune to adjust the mixture. I also converted my two and a quarter to an SU carb. Amazing 😊
New shocks work wonders. Also , on my 1966 S2A 88”. The original springs were just cruddy. I jacked the vehicle up by the frame enough to relax the and separate the leafs. I then pressure washed the springs and worked 90 weight gear oil between the leafs. It really did smooth the ride. New springs are always an option, but for now, I’m good.👍
Electronic ignition is a must; I fitted a new distributor to my 1949 series one 1600cc and the difference is astonishing. I also drained the tank and cleared out 70 years of grit which helped no end. There is what I call a "hidden" fuel filter inside the banjo joint holding the fuel line to the carb; the little perforated brass tube within was clogged up on mine. Those few efforts have even changed the sound of the engine; quite a sporty little rip off it now.
Try painting oil on the sides of the springs and it may lube them up and get them to move and work better. It worked on my 2a that had been standing for a few years.
Not a Land Rover, but one of my older cars was a nightmare with keeping the points distibutor adjusted. Fitted an original second hand electronic ignition from a later model and it as like a new car. Keep up the good work.
When I first got my 1966 Series 2a, I had trouble starting it for return trips after sitting a short time. Full choke? Half choke? No choke? I found myself guessing and making several failed attempts risking draining the battery. Cold starts in cold temps were a no brainer--full choke! As I got more familiar with it I found pressing on the accelerator just enough while hitting the start button to get ignition worked! These old Series trucks have their own personalities and quirks and the more you drive them the more you get familiar with them!
To echo other comments, I would redo the timing, electronic distributors have different settings. The procedure can be found on the excellent Geoffrey Croker video "Farm Fresh". It's a Series 3 but you will get the idea. Springs, I would regularly spray them with WD40, motorcycle chain lube, even used engine oil. They can be brought back to life unless the leaves are visibly spayed apart from corrosion between the leaves. Your chassis definitely looks a bit crusty, I'd clean it up and get your choice of Dinitrol, fish oil, Bilt Hamber chassis wax, Lanoguard etc both inside and outside. Id be tempted replace those shock absorbers with decent quality ones.
I swapped to a high torque Powerlite starter motor on my 2.25 petrol 2A and have been really impressed. Direct replacement and simple to fit. Not one for the purist but starts like a modern car, even in the cold. Easy to swap back in the future (not that I would)
I had one of these ten years back. Always cutting out due to the points gap distributor - sorted it by changing to an electronic unit - which should not have been necessary, but unlike the original fibre unit, the new red nylon ones get floppy when they are hot. Had other problems too - didn't work out what the reason was until I'd sold the old girl - a previous owner had taken out the dynamo and put an alternator in - nothing wrong with having an alternator, but this one wasn't regulating the voltage properly, and burning out coils, bulbs etc once the battery was fully charged
I would get the wire brush over that chassis and then treat with something like dinitrol, I converted my 11A to electronic, definitely better but I still have an intermittent loss of power sometimes.
I think to preserve it and protect it from disintegrating you definitely need to treat the chassis to give it longevity as it looked pretty bad underneath, other than that what you have done makes it more reliable. 👍
Great video - a fuel regulator will help solve the over fuelling problem. I put a fuel regulator and a fuel pressure gauge on my Alfa twin carbs and you can set the pressure coming into the carbs - I run between 1-2 psi and problem solved
Hi. I know the problem with it over fueling. What u need is a fuel pressure regulator. There’s a company called RPI. Engineering who sell them. I’ve fitted one to mine and it solves the problem. There adjustable and come with a gauge. Set it to about 4.5 psi. Problem solved. Only been doing this for 50 years myself. Hopefully this helps. Bob. The Garage. Brentwood
Hi yes the Red ht leads don’t look right. Judging by the way it started with the initial hesitation before it fired up sounds like the ignition is out Get ignition timing checked possibly with a strobe light. Pulling distributor and plonking it back in is a bit hit and miss. As for the leaf springs they just need wire brushing both sides of each spring and oiling with a light oil do this periodically it’ll help spring leafs to slip against each other more freely. That’s what I do with mine on my 109 s3. Also the leaf spring bushes could be seized in chassis or eyes on either end of the spring. Can check these out with knuckle bar and spanner. Penetrating oil for this as well. Spray around spring fixings.
I’m surprised you don’t need choke, the solex carbs have a float to stop fuel entering the carb when the bulb is full they only have a ide mix adjustment which can be found on the series one forum. They used to sell a jet rebuild kit for these carbs, can be removed with an AF spanner. My experience is been growing up with series ones. They may start but they never idle cold with out a bit of choke.. I pretty sure the condenser in the manual distributor cause you problem not starting hot. But if you can flood it just pumping the carb with out turning it over there got to be something wrong with the carb.
Hi, Electronic ignition can make a big improvement compared to a worn distributor. 1. It sounds like it is running too rich all the time, the mixture should be adjusted as it will cause premature wear to the cylinder bores. 2. New HT Leads can eliminate issues with spark but the leads should be the correct length. 3. Ignition timing should be adjusted with the electronic distributor in place, the engines will still run when ignition timing is quite far off but to get it idling and running smoothly the timing should be adjusted and the advance/retard checked. 4. Springs should be cleaned up with a wire brush and grease injected between the leaves, it will make a huge improvement. I have two sets of parabolics under my bench but went back to original semi elliptic springs after cleaning them up & greasing them in between each leaf. Fronts may be slightly splayed, rears look ok from what I can see. Jones Springs are the ones to buy if keeping suspension standard.
your electric fuel pump might be putting out too much pressure...if it is you can put in a fuel pressure regulator between the fuel pump and the carburetor....with my willys jeep my electric pump puts out around 4-6 psi but my carburetor can't handle much more than 1.75psi...i installed the regulator and set it to 1.5psi... now it never floods out....it also solved my always running rich problem as well...cheers
Hello Marcus, I am keen to know what fuel pump you used as I have fuel starvation issues on my series 2a, By the way I have changed it to a L77 5 speed, fitted disk brakes on the front and power steering as its my wifes car, and to fit the brakes the wheels needed to be changed, the bigger wheels made it nearly impossible for her to drive. The fuel starvation is the only issue now.
Hi, landy is looking good.. have seen AC Dodd you tube!.. if not check him out as he's a wizard on mini engines & what he doesn't know if anything won't be worth knowing lol.. He goes through electric car distributors like no one.. Watch his back catalogue of vids 👍😊
Just clickbait......why??? because Landrover enthusiasts never call the Landrover a car.....it's a bit like the spivs that buy them clean them up and try to sell them on for a buck or two extra....they call it a car!! clickbait.
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Electronic distributor is a game changer. You won’t regret it. I threw one on mine and it transformed it. Also I’ve timed it properly and used a colour tune to adjust the mixture. I also converted my two and a quarter to an SU carb. Amazing 😊
New shocks work wonders. Also , on my 1966 S2A 88”. The original springs were just cruddy. I jacked the vehicle up by the frame enough to relax the and separate the leafs. I then pressure washed the springs and worked 90 weight gear oil between the leafs. It really did smooth the ride. New springs are always an option, but for now, I’m good.👍
Electronic ignition is a must; I fitted a new distributor to my 1949 series one 1600cc and the difference is astonishing. I also drained the tank and cleared out 70 years of grit which helped no end. There is what I call a "hidden" fuel filter inside the banjo joint holding the fuel line to the carb; the little perforated brass tube within was clogged up on mine. Those few efforts have even changed the sound of the engine; quite a sporty little rip off it now.
Try painting oil on the sides of the springs and it may lube them up and get them to move and work better. It worked on my 2a that had been standing for a few years.
The leaf springs look fine except for some rust. Not swollen.
So indeed, treating it with oil is best. I did that too and it makes a big difference.
Not a Land Rover, but one of my older cars was a nightmare with keeping the points distibutor adjusted. Fitted an original second hand electronic ignition from a later model and it as like a new car. Keep up the good work.
When I first got my 1966 Series 2a, I had trouble starting it for return trips after sitting a short time. Full choke? Half choke? No choke? I found myself guessing and making several failed attempts risking draining the battery. Cold starts in cold temps were a no brainer--full choke! As I got more familiar with it I found pressing on the accelerator just enough while hitting the start button to get ignition worked! These old Series trucks have their own personalities and quirks and the more you drive them the more you get familiar with them!
🙏🏼🙏🏼
To echo other comments, I would redo the timing, electronic distributors have different settings. The procedure can be found on the excellent Geoffrey Croker video "Farm Fresh". It's a Series 3 but you will get the idea. Springs, I would regularly spray them with WD40, motorcycle chain lube, even used engine oil. They can be brought back to life unless the leaves are visibly spayed apart from corrosion between the leaves. Your chassis definitely looks a bit crusty, I'd clean it up and get your choice of Dinitrol, fish oil, Bilt Hamber chassis wax, Lanoguard etc both inside and outside. Id be tempted replace those shock absorbers with decent quality ones.
I swapped to a high torque Powerlite starter motor on my 2.25 petrol 2A and have been really impressed. Direct replacement and simple to fit. Not one for the purist but starts like a modern car, even in the cold. Easy to swap back in the future (not that I would)
I had one of these ten years back. Always cutting out due to the points gap distributor - sorted it by changing to an electronic unit - which should not have been necessary, but unlike the original fibre unit, the new red nylon ones get floppy when they are hot. Had other problems too - didn't work out what the reason was until I'd sold the old girl - a previous owner had taken out the dynamo and put an alternator in - nothing wrong with having an alternator, but this one wasn't regulating the voltage properly, and burning out coils, bulbs etc once the battery was fully charged
Parabolic springs are the way to go, genuinely the best thing you can do on a series Landy
thanks will take a look!
I would get the wire brush over that chassis and then treat with something like dinitrol, I converted my 11A to electronic, definitely better but I still have an intermittent loss of power sometimes.
I think to preserve it and protect it from disintegrating you definitely need to treat the chassis to give it longevity as it looked pretty bad underneath, other than that what you have done makes it more reliable. 👍
You would have to be Superman to do that😊
Great video - a fuel regulator will help solve the over fuelling problem. I put a fuel regulator and a fuel pressure gauge on my Alfa twin carbs and you can set the pressure coming into the carbs - I run between 1-2 psi and problem solved
That choke looks like its adjusted wrong, it appears to be in the full choke position. I think its a great looking engine.
Hi. I know the problem with it over fueling. What u need is a fuel pressure regulator.
There’s a company called RPI. Engineering who sell them. I’ve fitted one to mine and it solves the problem. There adjustable and come with a gauge. Set it to about 4.5 psi. Problem solved.
Only been doing this for 50 years myself.
Hopefully this helps.
Bob. The Garage. Brentwood
Hi yes the Red ht leads don’t look right. Judging by the way it started with the initial hesitation before it fired up sounds like the ignition is out Get ignition timing checked possibly with a strobe light. Pulling distributor and plonking it back in is a bit hit and miss. As for the leaf springs they just need wire brushing both sides of each spring and oiling with a light oil do this periodically it’ll help spring leafs to slip against each other more freely. That’s what I do with mine on my 109 s3. Also the leaf spring bushes could be seized in chassis or eyes on either end of the spring. Can check these out with knuckle bar and spanner. Penetrating oil for this as well. Spray around spring fixings.
Parabolics on my station wagon made it a lovely ride but definitely lifted the back and front up by a couple of inches
Lucky start that one
Use motorcycle chan lube on the springs, it comes in an Aerosol so easy to apply, it should make a fair differnce to the springs
I’m surprised you don’t need choke, the solex carbs have a float to stop fuel entering the carb when the bulb is full they only have a ide mix adjustment which can be found on the series one forum. They used to sell a jet rebuild kit for these carbs, can be removed with an AF spanner. My experience is been growing up with series ones. They may start but they never idle cold with out a bit of choke.. I pretty sure the condenser in the manual distributor cause you problem not starting hot. But if you can flood it just pumping the carb with out turning it over there got to be something wrong with the carb.
If too much fuel is getting to the carb and you think it is flooding, assuming the needle valve is good you need to check the float level.
The over fueling would be the fuel float is not set correctly. You will need the manual for the correct procedure for that carb.
i would change all suspention and shocks. easy to do and not to expensive
Hi, Electronic ignition can make a big improvement compared to a worn distributor.
1. It sounds like it is running too rich all the time, the mixture should be adjusted as it will cause premature wear to the cylinder bores.
2. New HT Leads can eliminate issues with spark but the leads should be the correct length.
3. Ignition timing should be adjusted with the electronic distributor in place, the engines will still run when ignition timing is quite far off but to get it idling and running smoothly the timing should be adjusted and the advance/retard checked.
4. Springs should be cleaned up with a wire brush and grease injected between the leaves, it will make a huge improvement. I have two sets of parabolics under my bench but went back to original semi elliptic springs after cleaning them up & greasing them in between each leaf. Fronts may be slightly splayed, rears look ok from what I can see. Jones Springs are the ones to buy if keeping suspension standard.
Brilliant advice thank you!
your electric fuel pump might be putting out too much pressure...if it is you can put in a fuel pressure regulator between the fuel pump and the carburetor....with my willys jeep my electric pump puts out around 4-6 psi but my carburetor can't handle much more than 1.75psi...i installed the regulator and set it to 1.5psi... now it never floods out....it also solved my always running rich problem as well...cheers
Nice one thanks - sounds like a good idea!
Some people rate parabolic springs.
Should be able to adjust the fuel air mix whilst its on tickover, then u can re adjust the timing with advancing or retarding the electric ignition
Hello Marcus, I am keen to know what fuel pump you used as I have fuel starvation issues on my series 2a, By the way I have changed it to a L77 5 speed, fitted disk brakes on the front and power steering as its my wifes car, and to fit the brakes the wheels needed to be changed, the bigger wheels made it nearly impossible for her to drive. The fuel starvation is the only issue now.
Hi, landy is looking good.. have seen AC Dodd you tube!.. if not check him out as he's a wizard on mini engines & what he doesn't know if anything won't be worth knowing lol.. He goes through electric car distributors like no one.. Watch his back catalogue of vids 👍😊
Who cares what the purists think. As long as you have reliability, that's all that matters.
looks like the choke lever is pulled on
Please don't put parabolic springs on. Make the ride height too high and looks awful.
Plumbing pipes normal.
Just clickbait......why??? because Landrover enthusiasts never call the Landrover a car.....it's a bit like the spivs that buy them clean them up and try to sell them on for a buck or two extra....they call it a car!! clickbait.
Your leads are too long. You may of improved things in changing them however they are now hanging over the exhaust
Good tip thanks, I will take a look