Hey Tom, (Chris here). Just wanted to commend you on this video! So informative and inspiring to go try it soon. Just gotta get my hands on some quarter sawn white pine and it seems like you could just almost start by making the door and design the cabinet accordingly. Never thought you could produce such a result with tape as the clamping source. Great job! Ps, am well into the shaker end table course and enjoying it a lot. Can’t wait to make it and get into some other projects. Thx Pps, I know it was said but please don’t change that teaching style to accommodate impatient people. What you’re teaching in these videos is best done in a methodical, engaging way (the essence of actual teaching) and is why I and alot of others go to your channel and take the courses. I’ve been watching a ton of TH-cam content on woodworking and a majority of it are these short sound bites or over simplified “overviews.” The problem is that most people are often then left with more questions than answers. So keep doing what you’re doing, I wouldn’t change a thing.
Thank you so much, I really appreciate that and it means more than you know. Every now and then there is a “squeaky wheel” who prefers the quick edited style and I have to explain that is not what we’re about here…esp since we are recording as a livestream, and true deeper understanding doesn’t happen that way either. But it never feels good to hear a negative complaint. So thanks again! 👍😎
Hi Tom, excellent lessen learned, on coopered doors or leds. Your teaching technique is excellent, by taking your time to explain and show the process in detail, so that the method and procedure comes across clear as a bell. Tom, don't even change a thing, go on teaching the way you have always been teaching. Who cares what some people say, they only wish they could be like you. When doing live streaming at the same time explaining the subject at hand and with in a time frame can be challenging, you handle this with no problems, it feels like everyone is in the shop with you and you are talking face to face. Thank you for the wood movement chart, you would think the the soft wood would have more movement then the hard woods, I find this interesting. Tell Kris, thanks for listening the chart info from FWW. Building a cooper door or lid for a project can be different and Interesting to do making it a lot of fun. I will definitely try to put my woodworking skills to work building a project with a cooper door. How did you come up with the size and angle of the curve? Did you show this in last week's SNL, I don't remember if so, I will check back. Thank you again for all you and Kris do, see you on Tuesday.
Thanks Steve! I appreciate your affirming words, I don’t plan on changing my teaching ways…I don’t think I could if I tried. We have to be ourselves in the end, and I guess I try to talk to people the way I would like to be spoken to. Of course there is always room for improvement and I often consider learning to speak and communicate authentically looking into a camera is a craft and art in itself. It’s interesting and challenging to me in a fresh way so I actually do appreciate critique, just not the kind that has nothing constructive in it. I sure enjoyed the coopered door as well, and can’t wait to finish the cabinet. I do mention the radius and how I arrived at it during the jewelry box episode…I think it was right around an 18” radius. Thanks again Steve! 👍😎
Another very interesting session. The curved-lid box is going to be a really nice piece. I also like coopered doors on small cabinets, as you have mentioned, and I have made a number of them. Reading books by James Krenov really had an impact on me. I agree with you that the tape method of "clamping" the door staves works easily and well. There is one possible drawback -- maintaining a consistent arc with no twist (not so much a twist as a shifted stave) over the length of the door can be hit-or-miss with the tape method. The door will glue up and dry very nicely with tight joints but it might also have an unintended "twist" that complicates mounting the curved panel at a later stage of a cabinet or box build. A small "twist" can make for a big problem. The result can be a lot of fiddling and fettling down the line. I dealt with this problem by making a "saddle frame", which was made of three pieces of 3/4" plywood: two identical door supports with concave curves to match the outside of the coopered door and a flat base piece on which to mount the supports. This allows one to (1) tape the door staves together efficiently, AND (2) to tape (or clamp) the freshly-glued door to the saddle frame. Using a taping/clamping caul curved to match the interior of the panel is probably a good practice here. The latter step assures that the curves on the ends of the door are identical. This makes mounting doors and hinges SO much easier at a later stage of the build. At least, it worked for me. Not long after I started making coopered doors, I also made a "Krenov-style" plane with a convex sole and a blade to match -- a stoup plane, I gather. It is great for cleaning up the inside of a coopered door or any other interior curve, for that matter. Nothing else seemed to work quite as well, as long as the blade was nicely sharpened. It was far more efficient and controlled than power sanding, in my experience. Further, like all "Krenov-style" planes, a stoup plane of this type is also easy and enjoyable to make. Thanks for the video, guys. Great stuff. All the best from Wisconsin! P.S. I noticed a few comments about your narrative style. Those who don't like it seem to misunderstand the purpose of the shop session, which is to emulate the experience of being in the shop with a mentor or teacher. The conversation and the stories are essential parts of this experience. Anyone who has ever served an apprenticeship of any kind knows this from their own experience. Anyway, that's just a thought from a shop geezer who has learned a lot from older (and younger) shop geezers. 😎
Thanks Jerry! I’m glad you enjoyed the session. Sounds like you go way back with your own Kenovian inspirations :) There was something special about the way he communicated the meaningful aspects of the craft while sharing fine craftsmanship. I agree with your assessment of the potential for a “twisted” door using the tape method. I noticed on one of my small curved lids the tape had come slightly loose toward the end of one seam and that last outer stave was a tiny bit out of the arched plane. The other two had no lifting tape (because I used more tape) and were beautifully aligned. Theoretically, if the outer surface is held tightly to the tape and remains flush during the bend it will produce a reliable arc. And if it will sit flat without rocking (convex side up) on a true flat surface, there in no twist to be concerned with. But better to be sure with some type of form when absolute reliability is required. And if you were in a limited production run you would want the assurance of consistency. A stoup plane as you described sounds ideal for shaping the interior. I’ll have to look into those myself! Thanks also for your affirmations regarding the “bored” comments :). I’ve learned you can’t please everyone, and the kind of person who need “just the facts” as quickly as possible is not likely to enjoy this format, nor be interested in producing finer work. So even though those comments can ruffle my spirits, it’s usually not for long, especially after I go back and look over the positive chats and affirming good will that is so much a part of the spirit of our community here…and you are a prime example, so thanks again! 👍 Tom
@@EpicWoodworking I taught university students for almost forty years, so I am a foremost expert on boring other people. One important lesson I learned early on as a teacher was that I was not simply conveying information or teaching a subject; I was communicating with and teaching students. Big difference! As a result of this epiphany, I always remembered I was talking with other people. I did not read notes and I did not talk to my notes, as many of my colleagues were wont to do. Nor did I answer my own questions. Human beings continually absorb quite a lot of information from the world around them, but to get them to focus on the information YOU are providing can be a challenge. Incorporating key information into narrative form can be very helpful. Talking to people, rather than talking "at" them, and maintaining eye contact are both crucial, as well. This is why I think your task is harder than mine was. You cannot make eye contact and you cannot get a tangible feel for the audience. This is why you have The Camera Lady read questions from the Fan Club, I am sure. If you weren't trying to connect with people, you wouldn't bother doing this in the first place. As one who has advanced degrees in inflicting boredom upon others, I really appreciate and admire the videos you guys develop each week. They are interesting, informative, and entertaining. I can only begin to imagine the work involved. Many, many thanks from an old geezer to two younger ones.
For hinges on small pieces, I use brass rod.. or pins. Drill holes in the end of the door top and bottom . Slide the door up into the top hole with a longer pin (marginally) then let down with short pin at the bottom hole Barely , if at all, visible hardware. Door can easily be removed by lifting up and out.
Excellent Video. Liked and subscribed. PS. I have James Krenov's first Swedish bench which he bought there in the 60s. I added a runner at the bottom of each end to increase the height, otherwise all original.
Excellent video Tom. I really enjoyed it and learned loads. Would you consider doing a video on how to instal knife hinges? Best wishes Mark (from Swindon, England)
Thanks Mark, I’m glad you enjoyed it! I am currently working on a new hanging cabinet project for an upcoming course. So I will be demonstrating different hinges in the near future and I’m sure I’ll be talking about it on a livestream soon. Thanks for watching! 👍😎
Dude said I don't know if that was a serious question?? Hand planes are part of the woodworking process my friend. That was hilarious. LOL I get it is a lot easier to do it on the table saw but a lotta ppl don't have these types of machines. They cost a lot of money. It's nice to have a really nice Powermatic table saw but to get a good table saw nowadays will set u back anywhere between 2-5 grand depending on where u are in the world. I would love a jointer like the one u have in ur shop man. I have a jointer/thicknesser but it was really a waste of money bcos the fence has given me no end of trouble. I need to get a new fence for it. It's one of the cheaper models. That's a great tip about Snipe and having the outfeed table set correct. I kept getting snipe last night at the end of every board. It wrecked my head bcos I didn't think of that. I'm kinda new to these machines. I haven't used it all that much to date and I've had it for a year now. I think I've used it 5 times in a year. I need to get to grips with the Joiter and my table saw. I'm actually in the process of building my own Table saw now. I bought the steel to build the frame and housing for the blade and motor, belt/pulley system. Sorry man I started waffling there.. I'm enjoying the video..
Ah yes Chris, that is what I was looking for! I had not heard of the shoemakers spokeshave, but just did some reading up about them. I think they would do the trick nicely, thanks for that!! 👍😎
iS 1/4 SAWN TIMBER FROM THE TOP LEFT OF THE TREE ROUND?? sO i HAVE A QUICK QUESTION FOR ANYBODY IN THE COMMENTS AS WELL AS THE MAN IN THESE VIDEOS.. - tHE WAY U CUT THE PIECES FOR THE ARCHed top of the box - Does it mean that the movement will be up/down rather than side to side or am I not getting it?? I love the look of the arch door/top. I use Bostik or ordinary PVA for my glue ups. I know it's the cheaper of the glues but it has a much longer open time for me anyways. I know a lotta woodworkers would balk at it but I like to use it. It dries clear too. I like that about it. I don't know if all these glues dry clear bcos I've only really used the EVOSTIK PVA glue atm. The Arched box top is really nice. I was wondering what the angle would be. I'm going to take a punt at it in my shop today. I have some nice pieces of wood and I was wondering if it would be possible to build the Arch door front for a cabinet and have glass in it. I wanted to make a shadow box for a family member but I love the idea of having an arched door for the front door part of the box. I think it would be something different t the ones I've seen on YT lately. THANKS for this great tutorial my friends. 87.4 is the angle I need. I will be looking to make a wooden hinge for my door. I saw one where the guy making it used little metal pins in his own shop made dowel which he cut into shorts and drilled holes with this contraption he had on his hand drill. It was the weirdest thing I'd ever seen where he pushed the small dowels into this little connection on the drill chuck which made the tiny holes to hold the pins. Then he glued some to the frame and door every 2nd one I think and waxed the other ones. It worked really well. I must look up that video and send u the link to his box with the wooden hinge idea.. It worked a treat for his box. I'm looking forward to the next video now. I will be checking out more of ur content over the next few days and seeing what's in ur back catalogue too. Thanks again for this awesome tutorial my friends. Take care.
Thank you so much, great to hear from you! The glues you used are quite good for this application. And that’s a good question about the movement…I was describing movement only happening along the width of the door, but you are making me wonder if any happens upward on the arch as well. It is probably very minimal if at all. My main concern is along the width, and using quartersawn staves is deliberate in order to produce the most stable solid door possible. I love the idea of the wooden hinges with the center pin! I actually saw a video on that briefly a while ago and should have saved it. I’d like to explore that technique and see if we can incorporate into another version of box…it’s so pure and elegant. Please do send the link if you find it. Thanks for being with us! 👍😎
Hey Tom, been rewatching a bunch of these sessions on curves (why so many comments on different videos haha). This is a bit of topic but have you done anything on making a skateboard (obviously the lamination method as opposed to coopering😄). I thought sometime of checking into this and trying with the vacuum bag. Occurred to me maybe some folks have that RoarRocket setup and might be fun. Of course it’s not a one session thing though but it would be interesting to consider the variety of cool things one could do in terms of the look of the veneer, inlays etc. probably it would be beyond SNL tho haha. Of course all the contours of a decent skateboard makes this fairly complex.
Good question. In the same way as solid, recessing and inlaying as needed. It is a little trickier and more care needs to be taken cutting cleanly with a sharp chisel. The 1/8” bending ply core layer offer strong screw purchase and the 1/8” solid wood edging also makes for a strong material in which the knife hinges are recessed. Hope that makes sense, thanks!
Hi Tom, it's a Jointer Planer combo by SCM called a Minimax FS 30c. You can see it here www.scmgroup.com/en_US/scmwood/products/joinery-machines.c884/planer-thicknessers-jointer-planers.893/minimax-fs-30c.748. Hope that helps!
Thanks, this may not be for you and that’s okay. But I think you’re missing the point, this is a livestream. I’m demonstrating a process in live time, so I am talking and explaining as normal exchanges go when showing a process, not trying to quickly make any specific point. Making anything of worth takes time, and if there are ways I can talk faster to speed the description of the process I will try to keep that in mind. The great thing is the videos are free, and you are free to come and go as you please.
Tony, you should have stuck with Tom's fantastic presentation. Later in the video, Camera Lady gave out a coupon code for a free SawsStop table saw...professional grade no less! Mine is arriving this coming Wednesday. And to sweeten the deal, Tom offered everyone watching a lifetime supply of Churchill cigars complete with his signature humidor/jewelry box. Sorry you missed out....
I appreciate that you are concerned for the safe demonstration of table saw use. Unfortunately, with the Powermatic model 66 version I am using, when the blade is tilted as it was in this demonstration, the splitter cannot be in place as it does not tilt with the saw arbor.
Thanks for the video, Tom. I just made my first 15x22" coopered cabinet door today. Also I dig your Inca bandsaw
Hey Tom, (Chris here). Just wanted to commend you on this video! So informative and inspiring to go try it soon. Just gotta get my hands on some quarter sawn white pine and it seems like you could just almost start by making the door and design the cabinet accordingly. Never thought you could produce such a result with tape as the clamping source. Great job! Ps, am well into the shaker end table course and enjoying it a lot. Can’t wait to make it and get into some other projects. Thx
Pps, I know it was said but please don’t change that teaching style to accommodate impatient people. What you’re teaching in these videos is best done in a methodical, engaging way (the essence of actual teaching) and is why I and alot of others go to your channel and take the courses. I’ve been watching a ton of TH-cam content on woodworking and a majority of it are these short sound bites or over simplified “overviews.” The problem is that most people are often then left with more questions than answers. So keep doing what you’re doing, I wouldn’t change a thing.
Thank you so much, I really appreciate that and it means more than you know. Every now and then there is a “squeaky wheel” who prefers the quick edited style and I have to explain that is not what we’re about here…esp since we are recording as a livestream, and true deeper understanding doesn’t happen that way either. But it never feels good to hear a negative complaint. So thanks again! 👍😎
The angle layout method you offered here is excellent. I’m also learning a lot from my “Neighborwood” membership on your website. Thanks
Tom, thanks for sharing your knowledge! I learned a ton.
Thanks Keegan, I’m glad you enjoyed it! 👍
Hi Tom, excellent lessen learned, on coopered doors or leds. Your teaching technique is excellent, by taking your time to explain and show the process in detail, so that the method and procedure comes across clear as a bell. Tom, don't even change a thing, go on teaching the way you have always been teaching. Who cares what some people say, they only wish they could be like you. When doing live streaming at the same time explaining the subject at hand and with in a time frame can be challenging, you handle this with no problems, it feels like everyone is in the shop with you and you are talking face to face.
Thank you for the wood movement chart, you would think the the soft wood would have more movement then the hard woods, I find this interesting. Tell Kris, thanks for listening the chart info from FWW.
Building a cooper door or lid for a project can be different and Interesting to do making it a lot of fun. I will definitely try to put my woodworking skills to work building a project with a cooper door. How did you come up with the size and angle of the curve? Did you show this in last week's SNL, I don't remember if so, I will check back. Thank you again for all you and Kris do, see you on Tuesday.
Thanks Steve! I appreciate your affirming words, I don’t plan on changing my teaching ways…I don’t think I could if I tried. We have to be ourselves in the end, and I guess I try to talk to people the way I would like to be spoken to. Of course there is always room for improvement and I often consider learning to speak and communicate authentically looking into a camera is a craft and art in itself. It’s interesting and challenging to me in a fresh way so I actually do appreciate critique, just not the kind that has nothing constructive in it.
I sure enjoyed the coopered door as well, and can’t wait to finish the cabinet. I do mention the radius and how I arrived at it during the jewelry box episode…I think it was right around an 18” radius.
Thanks again Steve! 👍😎
Another very interesting session. The curved-lid box is going to be a really nice piece. I also like coopered doors on small cabinets, as you have mentioned, and I have made a number of them. Reading books by James Krenov really had an impact on me.
I agree with you that the tape method of "clamping" the door staves works easily and well. There is one possible drawback -- maintaining a consistent arc with no twist (not so much a twist as a shifted stave) over the length of the door can be hit-or-miss with the tape method. The door will glue up and dry very nicely with tight joints but it might also have an unintended "twist" that complicates mounting the curved panel at a later stage of a cabinet or box build. A small "twist" can make for a big problem. The result can be a lot of fiddling and fettling down the line.
I dealt with this problem by making a "saddle frame", which was made of three pieces of 3/4" plywood: two identical door supports with concave curves to match the outside of the coopered door and a flat base piece on which to mount the supports. This allows one to (1) tape the door staves together efficiently, AND (2) to tape (or clamp) the freshly-glued door to the saddle frame. Using a taping/clamping caul curved to match the interior of the panel is probably a good practice here. The latter step assures that the curves on the ends of the door are identical. This makes mounting doors and hinges SO much easier at a later stage of the build. At least, it worked for me.
Not long after I started making coopered doors, I also made a "Krenov-style" plane with a convex sole and a blade to match -- a stoup plane, I gather. It is great for cleaning up the inside of a coopered door or any other interior curve, for that matter. Nothing else seemed to work quite as well, as long as the blade was nicely sharpened. It was far more efficient and controlled than power sanding, in my experience. Further, like all "Krenov-style" planes, a stoup plane of this type is also easy and enjoyable to make.
Thanks for the video, guys. Great stuff. All the best from Wisconsin!
P.S. I noticed a few comments about your narrative style. Those who don't like it seem to misunderstand the purpose of the shop session, which is to emulate the experience of being in the shop with a mentor or teacher. The conversation and the stories are essential parts of this experience. Anyone who has ever served an apprenticeship of any kind knows this from their own experience. Anyway, that's just a thought from a shop geezer who has learned a lot from older (and younger) shop geezers. 😎
Thanks Jerry! I’m glad you enjoyed the session. Sounds like you go way back with your own Kenovian inspirations :) There was something special about the way he communicated the meaningful aspects of the craft while sharing fine craftsmanship.
I agree with your assessment of the potential for a “twisted” door using the tape method. I noticed on one of my small curved lids the tape had come slightly loose toward the end of one seam and that last outer stave was a tiny bit out of the arched plane. The other two had no lifting tape (because I used more tape) and were beautifully aligned. Theoretically, if the outer surface is held tightly to the tape and remains flush during the bend it will produce a reliable arc. And if it will sit flat without rocking (convex side up) on a true flat surface, there in no twist to be concerned with. But better to be sure with some type of form when absolute reliability is required. And if you were in a limited production run you would want the assurance of consistency.
A stoup plane as you described sounds ideal for shaping the interior. I’ll have to look into those myself!
Thanks also for your affirmations regarding the “bored” comments :). I’ve learned you can’t please everyone, and the kind of person who need “just the facts” as quickly as possible is not likely to enjoy this format, nor be interested in producing finer work. So even though those comments can ruffle my spirits, it’s usually not for long, especially after I go back and look over the positive chats and affirming good will that is so much a part of the spirit of our community here…and you are a prime example, so thanks again! 👍 Tom
@@EpicWoodworking I taught university students for almost forty years, so I am a foremost expert on boring other people.
One important lesson I learned early on as a teacher was that I was not simply conveying information or teaching a subject; I was communicating with and teaching students. Big difference!
As a result of this epiphany, I always remembered I was talking with other people. I did not read notes and I did not talk to my notes, as many of my colleagues were wont to do. Nor did I answer my own questions.
Human beings continually absorb quite a lot of information from the world around them, but to get them to focus on the information YOU are providing can be a challenge. Incorporating key information into narrative form can be very helpful. Talking to people, rather than talking "at" them, and maintaining eye contact are both crucial, as well.
This is why I think your task is harder than mine was. You cannot make eye contact and you cannot get a tangible feel for the audience. This is why you have The Camera Lady read questions from the Fan Club, I am sure. If you weren't trying to connect with people, you wouldn't bother doing this in the first place.
As one who has advanced degrees in inflicting boredom upon others, I really appreciate and admire the videos you guys develop each week. They are interesting, informative, and entertaining. I can only begin to imagine the work involved.
Many, many thanks from an old geezer to two younger ones.
I like the way you teach
Thanks, I’m glad you enjoyed it! 👍😎
That was fun. Thanks Tom...I'm kinda jazzed too.
Thanks, it’s nice to know others are into it too 😎 I’m itching to finish that cabinet now, using the coopered door we made 👍
For hinges on small pieces, I use brass rod.. or pins. Drill holes in the end of the door top and bottom .
Slide the door up into the top hole with a longer pin (marginally) then let down with short pin at the bottom hole
Barely , if at all, visible hardware. Door can easily be removed by lifting up and out.
So cool! Can’t wait until I have something to use this application with.
Awesome, thanks Justin! 😎
Excellent Video.
Liked and subscribed.
PS. I have James Krenov's first Swedish bench which he bought there in the 60s.
I added a runner at the bottom of each end to increase the height,
otherwise all original.
Great tip on how to find a unknown angle.
Thanks Brian, glad you found that useful! 👍
Excellent video Tom. I really enjoyed it and learned loads. Would you consider doing a video on how to instal knife hinges?
Best wishes
Mark (from Swindon, England)
Thanks Mark, I’m glad you enjoyed it! I am currently working on a new hanging cabinet project for an upcoming course. So I will be demonstrating different hinges in the near future and I’m sure I’ll be talking about it on a livestream soon.
Thanks for watching! 👍😎
Dude said I don't know if that was a serious question?? Hand planes are part of the woodworking process my friend. That was hilarious. LOL
I get it is a lot easier to do it on the table saw but a lotta ppl don't have these types of machines. They cost a lot of money. It's nice to have a really nice Powermatic table saw but to get a good table saw nowadays will set u back anywhere between 2-5 grand depending on where u are in the world.
I would love a jointer like the one u have in ur shop man. I have a jointer/thicknesser but it was really a waste of money bcos the fence has given me no end of trouble. I need to get a new fence for it. It's one of the cheaper models.
That's a great tip about Snipe and having the outfeed table set correct. I kept getting snipe last night at the end of every board. It wrecked my head bcos I didn't think of that. I'm kinda new to these machines. I haven't used it all that much to date and I've had it for a year now. I think I've used it 5 times in a year.
I need to get to grips with the Joiter and my table saw.
I'm actually in the process of building my own Table saw now. I bought the steel to build the frame and housing for the blade and motor, belt/pulley system.
Sorry man I started waffling there.. I'm enjoying the video..
Great Video. Travisher!? Or a shoemakers spokeshave works great.
Ah yes Chris, that is what I was looking for! I had not heard of the shoemakers spokeshave, but just did some reading up about them. I think they would do the trick nicely, thanks for that!! 👍😎
@@EpicWoodworking No problem. We are All Here To Help Each Other. Your Work Is Great .Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
iS 1/4 SAWN TIMBER FROM THE TOP LEFT OF THE TREE ROUND??
sO i HAVE A QUICK QUESTION FOR ANYBODY IN THE COMMENTS AS WELL AS THE MAN IN THESE VIDEOS.. - tHE WAY U CUT THE PIECES FOR THE ARCHed top of the box - Does it mean that the movement will be up/down rather than side to side or am I not getting it??
I love the look of the arch door/top. I use Bostik or ordinary PVA for my glue ups. I know it's the cheaper of the glues but it has a much longer open time for me anyways. I know a lotta woodworkers would balk at it but I like to use it. It dries clear too. I like that about it. I don't know if all these glues dry clear bcos I've only really used the EVOSTIK PVA glue atm.
The Arched box top is really nice. I was wondering what the angle would be. I'm going to take a punt at it in my shop today. I have some nice pieces of wood and I was wondering if it would be possible to build the Arch door front for a cabinet and have glass in it. I wanted to make a shadow box for a family member but I love the idea of having an arched door for the front door part of the box. I think it would be something different t the ones I've seen on YT lately.
THANKS for this great tutorial my friends. 87.4 is the angle I need. I will be looking to make a wooden hinge for my door. I saw one where the guy making it used little metal pins in his own shop made dowel which he cut into shorts and drilled holes with this contraption he had on his hand drill. It was the weirdest thing I'd ever seen where he pushed the small dowels into this little connection on the drill chuck which made the tiny holes to hold the pins. Then he glued some to the frame and door every 2nd one I think and waxed the other ones. It worked really well. I must look up that video and send u the link to his box with the wooden hinge idea.. It worked a treat for his box.
I'm looking forward to the next video now. I will be checking out more of ur content over the next few days and seeing what's in ur back catalogue too. Thanks again for this awesome tutorial my friends. Take care.
Thank you so much, great to hear from you! The glues you used are quite good for this application. And that’s a good question about the movement…I was describing movement only happening along the width of the door, but you are making me wonder if any happens upward on the arch as well. It is probably very minimal if at all. My main concern is along the width, and using quartersawn staves is deliberate in order to produce the most stable solid door possible.
I love the idea of the wooden hinges with the center pin! I actually saw a video on that briefly a while ago and should have saved it. I’d like to explore that technique and see if we can incorporate into another version of box…it’s so pure and elegant. Please do send the link if you find it. Thanks for being with us! 👍😎
Hey Tom, been rewatching a bunch of these sessions on curves (why so many comments on different videos haha). This is a bit of topic but have you done anything on making a skateboard (obviously the lamination method as opposed to coopering😄). I thought sometime of checking into this and trying with the vacuum bag. Occurred to me maybe some folks have that RoarRocket setup and might be fun. Of course it’s not a one session thing though but it would be interesting to consider the variety of cool things one could do in terms of the look of the veneer, inlays etc. probably it would be beyond SNL tho haha. Of course all the contours of a decent skateboard makes this fairly complex.
How you deal with hinges on the laminated and veneered doors?
Good question. In the same way as solid, recessing and inlaying as needed. It is a little trickier and more care needs to be taken cutting cleanly with a sharp chisel. The 1/8” bending ply core layer offer strong screw purchase and the 1/8” solid wood edging also makes for a strong material in which the knife hinges are recessed.
Hope that makes sense, thanks!
What model of jointer do you have?
Hi Tom, it's a Jointer Planer combo by SCM called a Minimax FS 30c. You can see it here www.scmgroup.com/en_US/scmwood/products/joinery-machines.c884/planer-thicknessers-jointer-planers.893/minimax-fs-30c.748. Hope that helps!
You really do take a long time to say something or make a point.FYI. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
Thank you, sincerely, I will work on that…I’ve got my issues 😎 And thanks for watching! 👍
Im sure it must not be easy to make videos. Just a reminder of how the world went and got itself in big dadgum hurry. Thanks again brother!
Lost the will to live and turned off, before you got to the point.
Thanks, this may not be for you and that’s okay. But I think you’re missing the point, this is a livestream. I’m demonstrating a process in live time, so I am talking and explaining as normal exchanges go when showing a process, not trying to quickly make any specific point. Making anything of worth takes time, and if there are ways I can talk faster to speed the description of the process I will try to keep that in mind. The great thing is the videos are free, and you are free to come and go as you please.
Tony, you should have stuck with Tom's fantastic presentation. Later in the video, Camera Lady gave out a coupon code for a free SawsStop table saw...professional grade no less! Mine is arriving this coming Wednesday. And to sweeten the deal, Tom offered everyone watching a lifetime supply of Churchill cigars complete with his signature humidor/jewelry box.
Sorry you missed out....
I watch a lot of videos, and I'm sorry but I give a THUMBS DOWN to everyone that doesn't use their riving knife, regardless of how good the video is.
I appreciate that you are concerned for the safe demonstration of table saw use. Unfortunately, with the Powermatic model 66 version I am using, when the blade is tilted as it was in this demonstration, the splitter cannot be in place as it does not tilt with the saw arbor.
Oh no, he's sure to use it now since you're so well regarded in the community. No one cares about your thumbs down.
@@Fiberglasser03 cheers buddy, I am a better person for communicating with you