I was actually a little bit nervous that I was going to mess something up on my guitar LOL. I bought a Misha Mansoor ht6 Juggernaut, but not his 3 to $4,000 model! No! I bought the affordable $800 version LOL my only gripe with that guitar is that I'm constantly fine tuning. So I looked up the model online and lo and behold for $800, you get a plastic nut! Isn't that wonderful? Long story short I went to Guitar Center and I bought a black graphite nut. Grabbed my phone and looked up a TH-cam video and yours popped up. 15 minutes later the new nut is on it and not only does it sound and feel better, it's in tune and it's staying in tune. I however did have to sand the nut down a little bit. So for anybody who is wondering what I used, I had some 220 grit sandpaper laying around and it was actually perfect. You just go back and forth evenly and keep checking it against your existing nut. Just don't go lower than the existing nut. And then do like this guy told you to do before you glue it put it on tune it up and make sure it's where it needs to be. Thanks a lot for your video man really appreciate it! Next Step, take these Jackson locking tuners off and put on hipshot locking tuners and a hipshot hardtail bridge. Cheers!
Only thing I would have done is put painters tape on the headstock next to the nut slot, so when you were sanding with the sandpaper you didn’t have a chance in scuffing the finish on the headstock. As good and confident as we are, we are only human and sometimes we slip and make a mistake. Good video though and nicely done.
You could see a little gap between the nut and the fretboard edge when you had it stringed up, was that a problem? Looked like there may have been glue residue needing removed from the fretboard end edge.
I purchased a matte black Schector c6 Deluxe & when I went to change the strings, I realized that the nut slot on the D string is to low! Where did u get a black tusk nut?
So if you're at the right measurements after sanding the old nut glue do you still need to lightly sand the new nut? I'm not sure if there's some kind of residue on the new nut?
Masters-of-Music Thanks! I spent about 15 minutes measuring yesterday to figure that out! haha! I took a nut from a cheaper Schecter to replace it on my expensive one. It worked quite well. It was surprisingly easy to do.
Yeah, I know what you mean. Trying to measure those things is a pain. I got one for a different guitar and it ended up being shorter than it should've been but it actually worked out well because now the guitar has super low action. :)
I have another guitar that I didn't use any glue on and it's never been a problem, hasn't moved at all. I got the wrong nut and wasn't sure if it was going to work because it was a little shorter than it was supposed be, but it just gives it lower action and it works great.
Masters-of-Music hey thanks alot for timley response I think I'm gonna give it a whack cause a 12 dollar part and installing it my self sounds alot better then 80 bucks plus strings and parts and not gluing it there really isn't much to mess up cept maybe hitting it off a little wrong which shouldn't be a issue using the method you've used
bone will last longer but has less lubricating properties. For floyds/kahlers, get tuskxl. Also if you're going for bone, make sure you pick one with the EXACT same dimensions, cuz sanding bone is hard.
Please spend some bucks for a complete fueler gage set. Your mesurement is wrong and you did not hit the right angle hat and did not have the tool you need. Also, it's better to measure the disance between undersite of string and first fret when not pressed. Erlewine published the setups of famous guitar players, and some manufacturers like PRS publish their standard values. Typical is 0,4 mm for the E and 0,2 mm for the e''. Also, you can compare the distance between A) 1st fret and unpressed string and B) 2nd fret and string when pressed on 1st fret. A) shall never be smaller than B), but can be = B (for some guitars, A) must be slightly higher, but only a few "hairs". With 0,4 mm and 02 mm, you are always secure. But your result looks good as far I can see.
Well, after replacing the nut I think you’re supposed to set your string height at the 12th fret at 5/64 on the lawyer and 3 1/2 to 4/64 on the high e. Any wanna check your relief in the neck? Check your string clearance like u did at the third fret, I think the six fret as well. If you want to check your internation, then you would want to check all your notes at the second fret and see what slots need to be filed down so all your second fret notes are in tune. And then I think he would want to check your string tension with minor tailpiece adjustments. Can also check the radius of your foot forward make sure it matches with the slots on the saddle. With all that said, you may have gotten away with just a simple truss rod adjustment of vita just needed some relief in the neck Maybe not but cool video bud cheers
I was actually a little bit nervous that I was going to mess something up on my guitar LOL. I bought a Misha Mansoor ht6 Juggernaut, but not his 3 to $4,000 model! No! I bought the affordable $800 version LOL my only gripe with that guitar is that I'm constantly fine tuning. So I looked up the model online and lo and behold for $800, you get a plastic nut! Isn't that wonderful? Long story short I went to Guitar Center and I bought a black graphite nut.
Grabbed my phone and looked up a TH-cam video and yours popped up. 15 minutes later the new nut is on it and not only does it sound and feel better, it's in tune and it's staying in tune. I however did have to sand the nut down a little bit.
So for anybody who is wondering what I used, I had some 220 grit sandpaper laying around and it was actually perfect. You just go back and forth evenly and keep checking it against your existing nut. Just don't go lower than the existing nut. And then do like this guy told you to do before you glue it put it on tune it up and make sure it's where it needs to be. Thanks a lot for your video man really appreciate it! Next Step, take these Jackson locking tuners off and put on hipshot locking tuners and a hipshot hardtail bridge. Cheers!
Only thing I would have done is put painters tape on the headstock next to the nut slot, so when you were sanding with the sandpaper you didn’t have a chance in scuffing the finish on the headstock. As good and confident as we are, we are only human and sometimes we slip and make a mistake. Good video though and nicely done.
Straightforward, close up angle to see what the hell is actually happening. Thank you for this. Cheers!
how is the white one installed?
HAHAHAHA
HAHAHAHAHAHAHA you made my day brother
You could see a little gap between the nut and the fretboard edge when you had it stringed up, was that a problem? Looked like there may have been glue residue needing removed from the fretboard end edge.
Good advice on the cloth and block of wood
I purchased a matte black Schector c6 Deluxe & when I went to change the strings, I realized that the nut slot on the D string is to low! Where did u get a black tusk nut?
you didn't bounce it to see if it's authentic?
You want to tune all the strings up when checking the nut as the extra string tension will add to the bow.
So if you're at the right measurements after sanding the old nut glue do you still need to lightly sand the new nut? I'm not sure if there's some kind of residue on the new nut?
What string gauge did you use
Awesome video!
Was the slot angles correct?
Which model number tusq nut did you use for this Schecter? I have the exact same thing so I would really like to know the model number.
It uses model PT-6642-00, the 42 x 6 nut: amzn.to/20WWap0
Masters-of-Music
Thanks! I spent about 15 minutes measuring yesterday to figure that out! haha!
I took a nut from a cheaper Schecter to replace it on my expensive one. It worked quite well. It was surprisingly easy to do.
Yeah, I know what you mean. Trying to measure those things is a pain. I got one for a different guitar and it ended up being shorter than it should've been but it actually worked out well because now the guitar has super low action. :)
Will this one fit a Jackson js22?
@@masters-of-music7602 I'm surprised the height of this model isn't too low for the .54 gauge string on the Schecter.
Debating on trying this myself only concern is messing up the gluing part
I have another guitar that I didn't use any glue on and it's never been a problem, hasn't moved at all. I got the wrong nut and wasn't sure if it was going to work because it was a little shorter than it was supposed be, but it just gives it lower action and it works great.
Masters-of-Music hey thanks alot for timley response I think I'm gonna give it a whack cause a 12 dollar part and installing it my self sounds alot better then 80 bucks plus strings and parts and not gluing it there really isn't much to mess up cept maybe hitting it off a little wrong which shouldn't be a issue using the method you've used
The tricky part is the sanding.
hell yea! black nuts!!!
What gauge strings do you use? I wanna replace the nut on one of my guitars, and I want one that’ll fit 10-52
I know this is late but I use 12-54 strings (EXL145) on this guitar and they work great for drop c.
Tusq vs real bone,, anyone have a take on this?
bone will last longer but has less lubricating properties. For floyds/kahlers, get tuskxl. Also if you're going for bone, make sure you pick one with the EXACT same dimensions, cuz sanding bone is hard.
I don’t know if bone does last longer, ive seen a lot of bone wear down, havnt seen many Tusq’s worn
Thanks
Please spend some bucks for a complete fueler gage set. Your mesurement is wrong and you did not hit the right angle hat and did not have the tool you need. Also, it's better to measure the disance between undersite of string and first fret when not pressed. Erlewine published the setups of famous guitar players, and some manufacturers like PRS publish their standard values. Typical is 0,4 mm for the E and 0,2 mm for the e''. Also, you can compare the distance between A) 1st fret and unpressed string and B) 2nd fret and string when pressed on 1st fret. A) shall never be smaller than B), but can be = B (for some guitars, A) must be slightly higher, but only a few "hairs". With 0,4 mm and 02 mm, you are always secure. But your result looks good as far I can see.
A feeler guage is handy for these kinds of things but this was the exact same nut this guitar comes with stock so there was no need to get technical.
demo tester actually, the strings should sit in the nut as close as possible without buzzing when played open.
I don’t even measure..I go by eye
Has anyone run into the problem that this nut actually makes the guitar strings buzz? I think it might be a bit too short.
Thats the reason why i changed mine it actuall sound better the old nut was worned down because i left it for a year
This is hardly the correct way of replacing the nut. Measuring is off.
Could you explain the proper measuring? Ive seen another way, basing it off of slight lift off of the first fret.
Well, after replacing the nut I think you’re supposed to set your string height at the 12th fret at 5/64 on the lawyer and 3 1/2 to 4/64 on the high e. Any wanna check your relief in the neck? Check your string clearance like u did at the third fret, I think the six fret as well. If you want to check your internation, then you would want to check all your notes at the second fret and see what slots need to be filed down so all your second fret notes are in tune. And then I think he would want to check your string tension with minor tailpiece adjustments. Can also check the radius of your foot forward make sure it matches with the slots on the saddle.
With all that said, you may have gotten away with just a simple truss rod adjustment of vita just needed some relief in the neck Maybe not but cool video bud cheers