I have that same tool, when you check the action at the 12th fret, it is best to do it in the playing position. The weight of the plunger will push on the string and the reading will be lower by a bit. At the first fret the strings are supported at the nut so they are not influenced nearly as much.
@@Projectjx1 I have this tool and I'm sure they said its not recommended for the 12th fret should only be used at the nut, I thought that was a bit odd and was hoping to use it for both, seemed fine here - apart from the point you made but I guess it could be held like that.
Great video. I like how he differentiates between setup vs. QC. I had trouble setting my action low on my MIM Tele. I bought the StewMac tool because as a retired engineer I appreciated the ease-of-use. Anyway the nut height on my was all above .030”, whereas my American Strat and Gibson SG are in the .020” range. So now I’m confident I can file the Tele nut and therefore lower the action to my preference.
@@stringhacker1 I have tried several fret files. I like the Fret Guru Dagger followed with micro mesh papers for polishing. I like the HOSCO sets for nuts. Both are reasonably priced. I have only bought Screwmac when there was no other choice...or a crazy cheap sale price.
SEARCH: guitar dial indicator There is similar with probably a better base for $70. (NOT Amazon) and there is a purpose made digital tool measuring to 1/100 mm. for under $50. Stumac poisoned me on stumac with their looney priced nut files. Stumac self serving videos run from good to WASTE OF TIME.
It’s not “doing the same thing a $2 set of feeler gauges do”. It’s a different method for doing the same job. Certainly the StewMac tool is expensive, as is always the case, but to give it it’s due, you get a more accurate read, and you get it easier, quicker and more consistently. It’s actually a great tool. The high price deflects away from that because it gets people annoyed. There is actually a version of this tool on Amazon for half the price of the StewMac one. I can’t remember the name, but it’s easy enough to find. I wouldn’t be surprised if StewMac respond by lowering their price - the new management seems to be recognizing that they’re losing market share to brands with more reasonable prices.
This guy is using this tool incorrectly. It's measuring from the top of the string not the bottom. What's funny is that even the directions that come with this tool are incorrect... Because it's cheap Chinese garbage. Anyway, to get the correct measurements he would have to subtract the width of each string. One last thing, generally speaking, unless you are spending thousands or even tens of thousands of dollars on gauges like this, they are all reasonably accurate. In other words, there really isn't much difference between a Harbor freight depth gauge and what this guy is using.
When I first got into setting up my own guitars, I was obsessed with the acutal measurements of string height, nut height, bridge height, etc. I have now worked on enough guitars where I find that all of these measurements are "Rule of Thumb" and you just need to be close. The reason is personal preference and feel of the guitar allows fine tuning. Things like fret height have a huge impact on all of these measurements. I have a new tele neck that has a bone nut blank that I need to cut and looking forward to you nut cutting video. Good info in this video! Thanks!
You can take the same measurement using a Digital Caliper.. just set the depth bar on the fretboard next to the fret, then lower the beam down until it just touches the top of the string, then zero it out, then push the beam down until it bottoms out the string on the fret, and read your measurement.. it may not be quite as accurate as the purpose built tool, but if you already have a Caliper, it'll save you $100..
Great video, but I think you're using the tool incorrectly. From what Stewmac instructs us, we're supposed to press down on the string on both sides of the tool and check the reading that way, rather than pressing down on the plunger to get the reading. Also, they don't recommend using the tool to check the action on the 12th fret, as the plunger's weight effects the reading the further down the neck you go from the nut.
Exactly correct! Did all my electrics yesterday and immediately saw that pressing down on the plunger gave widely varying results. I would also recommend using a rubber band to hold the device in place as it tends to slide off the fretboard when doing the high E string. Cheers.
Dylan, yep, that is a cool tool. I actually made my own. If yo do make your own you actually have to do a little mod inside the dial indicator, because there is an internal spring that pushes the rod downwards. That spring is really soft, but it still adds enough push to throw the measurements off, especially on an electric guitar that has less string tension. In fact, I normally tune the strings a bit higher, when using the dial indicator, to reduce that factor. Even with the spring completely removed, the weight of the rod can push the string gown a bit. You are correct that we shouldn't be obsessing about .001 of an inch, but when you want to measure the leftover distance over the first fret, after the string is touching the 2nd fret, it is sometimes impossible to measure what that distance is, due to the plunger pushing the string. In other words, I can see there's a gap, but the dial indicator will measure zero, if the string is too loose and/or if the internal spring is at full tension. I've never worked with the StewMac version of this tool, so I don't know if they actually modify the dial indicator. But I did modify the dial indicator I used to make this tool. BTW, I also use this tool to measure the fret crown heigh. I just can't measure the fret height over a worn-down fret because the plunger is riding over the highest parts of the crown. But I do want to make a tip that will attach to the plunger, so that I can measure fret wear.
I set the action while fretting on the first fret to measure action at the 12th fret. Then, I set the string height at the nut as if the nut was a zero fret. Meaning, the nut slot depth should be level with the frets. Anyone who talks about it depending on the player's "playing style" is assuming the "playing style" only matters in the open position. They forget that most playing doesn't happen in the first position. If all the frets are level, why would the nut be the only "fret" that's higher? When you play barre chords, the first finger turns the fret it's on into the "nut".
There are several factors that are going to break down the height for your playstyle and for your guitar you own. Break angle on your headstock/tuners, string gauge, fret height, if you're a slide player you may want it lower depending on what is more comfortable for you and what sounds more pleasing. There are numerous things. You may set your action in measure your action based off of a zero fret But that has nothing to do with the nut. Otherwise you could say the same thing about your saddle/bridge. And that's just the thing the nut isn't just another fret it's a bridge. Some players prefer to have higher action and would like their action to be somewhat level across the fretboard which would not be possible if you just level it the same height as another fret. I'm not sure but I would also assume that the break angle/height is also going to play a factor in the amount of tension the strings will have the closer you get to the nut as well. You also cannot just readjust your nut up and down like you can on the other components of your guitar. You may be able to go lower but you cannot just go back up so identifying what fits you best vs just doing the absolute standard is going to be much better than the ladder. Also lastly if you just adjust the nut to the same height as the frets then you will have no leeway once you get down to a certain action because you will simply just start fretting out and buzzing off your first several frets. I have three different guitars and each of them have different nut heights based off of what felt more comfortable and had the most playability for my play styles mainly being based off of one being my acoustic, one being my standard tuned guitar, and the third one being the guitar I play all of my drop tuned music with. With how low I like my action and string gauge on my drop tuned guitar if I tried to drop my nut as low as I do on my standard tuned guitar I would be buzzing all over the top like I used to before I replaced the nut and upped the slot height
@@SlightLeeBased That only matters in the open position. Every time you fret a note, it becomes the nut in a sense. Like using a capo. Why doesn't your playing style matter in the same way once you leave the open position? Now, string buzz (and, sympathetic resonance) between the nut and the fretted note is a real thing.
I bought a AM PRO II Strat neck for a partscaster build and appreciated the nut being pretty much uncut. It allowed me to cut cut my string gauge and height exactly the way I wanted it. Not everything is plug and play, and that’s not necessarily a bad thing.
Great tool! And great video for people learning to do some nut slotting. Philip mentioned it below, and I believe you mentioned it in your video. If you fret the third fret and take the relief and saddle height measurements out of the picture you may get a more accurate reading, however a micrometer of that style reading .005-.012 is much harder than it reading .012 - .025. That being said, if someone was to first set the relief to .005-.008 and your saddle heights to 3/64 and 5/64 as you mentioned before using this tool, they would have a much easier time. Thanks for the content! Great advise.
Thanks Dylan! I laughed out loud when you turned the bottom of the gauge for the lower strings - I was frustrated with it and turn the guitar thinking that's not like them for a quality tool 🙄Actually when I first got them I say them I have the neck gauge too - love them both by the way- I looked every where for someone actually using them like you did here and couldn't find it anywhere. Tell them to give you the relief one it would be great to see what you think of it - and check I'm not doing anything stupid with that one too 😁
I got it from Philadelphia luthiers. A bit cheaper but not by much. Great tool I use it all the time. For measuring relief and action too. Only I measure them all in an almost playing position at a slight angle just to allow the plunger to drop
I spoke with someone at Gibson a while back, because it's always been a complaint that their nuts are cut high. The reason they do that is because if you want to play slide, a higher action is better. A lot of people want to do the southern rock thing and be Derrick Trucks, so it's not out of the realm of possibility. They know you can take nut material off easily with a file, but putting it back on is dubious at best. With a bone nut, it's easier, but smelly to make that bone dust! Also, all Gibson USA guitars and some Custom shop are pleck-ed, but the pleck machine does not cut the nut.
I tend to agree with you. I have I think 7 USA Les Pauls? Maybe 6 anyway most of the nuts were not cut great in my opinion. Not horrifying or anything but not great. Now I just made a deal on an R9(first custom shop) we shall see how that one looks.
This was really helpful since I was just installing a new Floyd Rose locking nut and needed a way to accurately measure this. I found that I had a digital caliper that had a depth gauge on one side. I was able to use that to accomplish what you showed in this video. If I were a luthier I would no doubt have one of these. In fact I might just buy one since I'm huge OCD nerd. 🤓
@@musicproductionvideos5019... That's .01 height off the 1st fret with guitar set up or .01 while pressing 3rd fret? If it's with guitar set up that must feel real nice and low... Easy and fast to play on first few frets...
Cant wait to see your next video. Could u also explain what are good measurements for the nut? When it comes to set ups i can adjust the truss rod, set intonation, and set action, but i dont know how to cut a nut at all. Definitely would love to learn as much as u can teach on this topic. Maybe in the future a soldering lesson too would be cool. Thanks for what u do Dylan!
Where do you think the string action should be on the Sable at the 12th fret? What do you recommend the heights should be for easy playability for rhythm strumming? Did you need to adjust action on your Sable?
i think a lotta brands send them out totally uncut these daze. the last few guitars i bought new seemed that way. No worries for me though I hear people complaining about that without understanding it's done on purpose.
I recently bought a feeler gauge (the old fashioned one), but the way you hold yours makes me think yours is not as greasy as mine. How did you manage?
Love that tool for the nut. Not so much for action at the 12th fret. I play 11-49s and I find that when the guitar is on its back, the string sag at the midpoint due to gravity is significant. The tool is not useful for a guitar in playing position.
If you ever cut a nut with a fret file, it's way easy to cut too much. Human hair width is on average 4 to 8 thousands of an inch, so these are a lot more accurate than you think. We're basically splitting hairs here! Pun intended! Seriously though, one swipe of a file and you can be too deep and now you have to replace the nut. Been there and done that! A cool trick is using masking tape on the fretboard, stack them up until it flush with the first fret. Add at least one or two extra, strips (masking tape is about .004 per, strip depending on the tape). Anyway you cut the nut until it just kisses the tape. It gets you really close and matches the fretboard radius well.
I only put brass nuts on everything I build or modify. For one I like that it gives the guitar the exact same sound playing open notes and fretted, and secondly cutting the slot too deep really takes some work. Nothing you do in a swipe or two.
To my experience Ernie Balls have relatively too bad nut jobs. Even ball family reserve models have very bad samples. Slots are not good enough for a guitar in that price range, strings were too high, there are serious intonation problems in the first couple of frets; i still remember my disappointment very well.
Why not measure the nut against the frets, and not the strings? When building a guitar, it has no strings. Do they just, "rough in" the nut, until the guitar is strung, and finished? Then go back and fix it? Doesn't sound very practical. $122.09, for the same tool Elmer sells for, $66.99... ScrewMac really likes to ignore normal business rules.
Can we stop with the premier BS! "Premiers in 20 hours" Amazing! This takes space on the feed of something I could watch right now. I am interested and want to watch it but I`m hiding it cuz I don`t want a jpg on my feed over something I could watch 🤷♂
Is it really that hard to scroll an extra inch? The reason for a premier is to enable live chat while everyone watches for the first time. I do agree it isn't necessary for more mundane videos though.
I have that same tool, when you check the action at the 12th fret, it is best to do it in the playing position. The weight of the plunger will push on the string and the reading will be lower by a bit. At the first fret the strings are supported at the nut so they are not influenced nearly as much.
Thanks for this comment... I've been wondering why my numbers were off...
This tool sucks.
@@Projectjx1 I have this tool and I'm sure they said its not recommended for the 12th fret should only be used at the nut, I thought that was a bit odd and was hoping to use it for both, seemed fine here - apart from the point you made but I guess it could be held like that.
Great video. I like how he differentiates between setup vs. QC. I had trouble setting my action low on my MIM Tele. I bought the StewMac tool because as a retired engineer I appreciated the ease-of-use. Anyway the nut height on my was all above .030”, whereas my American Strat and Gibson SG are in the .020” range. So now I’m confident I can file the Tele nut and therefore lower the action to my preference.
I wouldn’t press on the plunger Dylan. I depress the string on both sides of the fret, the plunger will drop on its own
That PRS was crazy good…all the slots were stepped down just like you would want…I’m impressed 👍
Leave it to ScrewMac to sell a $150.00 "tool" that does the same thing a $2.00 set of feeler gauges do.
@@stringhacker1 I have tried several fret files. I like the Fret Guru Dagger followed with micro mesh papers for polishing. I like the HOSCO sets for nuts. Both are reasonably priced. I have only bought Screwmac when there was no other choice...or a crazy cheap sale price.
It’s worth it if you own a lot of guitars and you really want to double check from multiple ways especially if you’re charging money to customers
SEARCH: guitar dial indicator
There is similar with probably a better base for $70. (NOT Amazon) and there is a purpose made digital tool measuring to 1/100 mm. for under $50. Stumac poisoned me on stumac with their looney priced nut files. Stumac self serving videos run from good to WASTE OF TIME.
It’s not “doing the same thing a $2 set of feeler gauges do”. It’s a different method for doing the same job. Certainly the StewMac tool is expensive, as is always the case, but to give it it’s due, you get a more accurate read, and you get it easier, quicker and more consistently. It’s actually a great tool. The high price deflects away from that because it gets people annoyed. There is actually a version of this tool on Amazon for half the price of the StewMac one. I can’t remember the name, but it’s easy enough to find. I wouldn’t be surprised if StewMac respond by lowering their price - the new management seems to be recognizing that they’re losing market share to brands with more reasonable prices.
This guy is using this tool incorrectly. It's measuring from the top of the string not the bottom. What's funny is that even the directions that come with this tool are incorrect... Because it's cheap Chinese garbage. Anyway, to get the correct measurements he would have to subtract the width of each string.
One last thing, generally speaking, unless you are spending thousands or even tens of thousands of dollars on gauges like this, they are all reasonably accurate. In other words, there really isn't much difference between a Harbor freight depth gauge and what this guy is using.
When I first got into setting up my own guitars, I was obsessed with the acutal measurements of string height, nut height, bridge height, etc. I have now worked on enough guitars where I find that all of these measurements are "Rule of Thumb" and you just need to be close. The reason is personal preference and feel of the guitar allows fine tuning. Things like fret height have a huge impact on all of these measurements. I have a new tele neck that has a bone nut blank that I need to cut and looking forward to you nut cutting video. Good info in this video! Thanks!
You can take the same measurement using a Digital Caliper.. just set the depth bar on the fretboard next to the fret, then lower the beam down until it just touches the top of the string, then zero it out, then push the beam down until it bottoms out the string on the fret, and read your measurement.. it may not be quite as accurate as the purpose built tool, but if you already have a Caliper, it'll save you $100..
Or, you can get the depth and subtract the diameter of the string.
Excellent gear. So much better than eyeballing. Love the digital side of precision and accuracy
Great video, but I think you're using the tool incorrectly. From what Stewmac instructs us, we're supposed to press down on the string on both sides of the tool and check the reading that way, rather than pressing down on the plunger to get the reading. Also, they don't recommend using the tool to check the action on the 12th fret, as the plunger's weight effects the reading the further down the neck you go from the nut.
Exactly correct! Did all my electrics yesterday and immediately saw that pressing down on the plunger gave widely varying results. I would also recommend using a rubber band to hold the device in place as it tends to slide off the fretboard when doing the high E string. Cheers.
Dylan, yep, that is a cool tool. I actually made my own. If yo do make your own you actually have to do a little mod inside the dial indicator, because there is an internal spring that pushes the rod downwards. That spring is really soft, but it still adds enough push to throw the measurements off, especially on an electric guitar that has less string tension. In fact, I normally tune the strings a bit higher, when using the dial indicator, to reduce that factor. Even with the spring completely removed, the weight of the rod can push the string gown a bit.
You are correct that we shouldn't be obsessing about .001 of an inch, but when you want to measure the leftover distance over the first fret, after the string is touching the 2nd fret, it is sometimes impossible to measure what that distance is, due to the plunger pushing the string. In other words, I can see there's a gap, but the dial indicator will measure zero, if the string is too loose and/or if the internal spring is at full tension.
I've never worked with the StewMac version of this tool, so I don't know if they actually modify the dial indicator. But I did modify the dial indicator I used to make this tool.
BTW, I also use this tool to measure the fret crown heigh. I just can't measure the fret height over a worn-down fret because the plunger is riding over the highest parts of the crown. But I do want to make a tip that will attach to the plunger, so that I can measure fret wear.
I set the action while fretting on the first fret to measure action at the 12th fret. Then, I set the string height at the nut as if the nut was a zero fret. Meaning, the nut slot depth should be level with the frets. Anyone who talks about it depending on the player's "playing style" is assuming the "playing style" only matters in the open position. They forget that most playing doesn't happen in the first position. If all the frets are level, why would the nut be the only "fret" that's higher? When you play barre chords, the first finger turns the fret it's on into the "nut".
There are several factors that are going to break down the height for your playstyle and for your guitar you own. Break angle on your headstock/tuners, string gauge, fret height, if you're a slide player you may want it lower depending on what is more comfortable for you and what sounds more pleasing. There are numerous things. You may set your action in measure your action based off of a zero fret But that has nothing to do with the nut. Otherwise you could say the same thing about your saddle/bridge. And that's just the thing the nut isn't just another fret it's a bridge. Some players prefer to have higher action and would like their action to be somewhat level across the fretboard which would not be possible if you just level it the same height as another fret. I'm not sure but I would also assume that the break angle/height is also going to play a factor in the amount of tension the strings will have the closer you get to the nut as well. You also cannot just readjust your nut up and down like you can on the other components of your guitar. You may be able to go lower but you cannot just go back up so identifying what fits you best vs just doing the absolute standard is going to be much better than the ladder. Also lastly if you just adjust the nut to the same height as the frets then you will have no leeway once you get down to a certain action because you will simply just start fretting out and buzzing off your first several frets. I have three different guitars and each of them have different nut heights based off of what felt more comfortable and had the most playability for my play styles mainly being based off of one being my acoustic, one being my standard tuned guitar, and the third one being the guitar I play all of my drop tuned music with. With how low I like my action and string gauge on my drop tuned guitar if I tried to drop my nut as low as I do on my standard tuned guitar I would be buzzing all over the top like I used to before I replaced the nut and upped the slot height
@@SlightLeeBased That only matters in the open position. Every time you fret a note, it becomes the nut in a sense. Like using a capo. Why doesn't your playing style matter in the same way once you leave the open position? Now, string buzz (and, sympathetic resonance) between the nut and the fretted note is a real thing.
I bought a AM PRO II Strat neck for a partscaster build and appreciated the nut being pretty much uncut. It allowed me to cut cut my string gauge and height exactly the way I wanted it. Not everything is plug and play, and that’s not necessarily a bad thing.
Great tool! And great video for people learning to do some nut slotting. Philip mentioned it below, and I believe you mentioned it in your video. If you fret the third fret and take the relief and saddle height measurements out of the picture you may get a more accurate reading, however a micrometer of that style reading .005-.012 is much harder than it reading .012 - .025. That being said, if someone was to first set the relief to .005-.008 and your saddle heights to 3/64 and 5/64 as you mentioned before using this tool, they would have a much easier time.
Thanks for the content! Great advise.
I need this tool in my life.
Hey there brother. I have been using that gauge for about three years and love it!
So what about the strings and the 12th fret per Felix? I have not seen Stew Mac's instructions.
Thanks Dylan! I laughed out loud when you turned the bottom of the gauge for the lower strings - I was frustrated with it and turn the guitar thinking that's not like them for a quality tool 🙄Actually when I first got them I say them I have the neck gauge too - love them both by the way- I looked every where for someone actually using them like you did here and couldn't find it anywhere. Tell them to give you the relief one it would be great to see what you think of it - and check I'm not doing anything stupid with that one too 😁
I got it from Philadelphia luthiers. A bit cheaper but not by much. Great tool I use it all the time. For measuring relief and action too. Only I measure them all in an almost playing position at a slight angle just to allow the plunger to drop
Love the classic Audi Sport hat
I spoke with someone at Gibson a while back, because it's always been a complaint that their nuts are cut high. The reason they do that is because if you want to play slide, a higher action is better. A lot of people want to do the southern rock thing and be Derrick Trucks, so it's not out of the realm of possibility. They know you can take nut material off easily with a file, but putting it back on is dubious at best. With a bone nut, it's easier, but smelly to make that bone dust! Also, all Gibson USA guitars and some Custom shop are pleck-ed, but the pleck machine does not cut the nut.
I tend to agree with you. I have I think 7 USA Les Pauls? Maybe 6 anyway most of the nuts were not cut great in my opinion. Not horrifying or anything but not great. Now I just made a deal on an R9(first custom shop) we shall see how that one looks.
This was really helpful since I was just installing a new Floyd Rose locking nut and needed a way to accurately measure this. I found that I had a digital caliper that had a depth gauge on one side. I was able to use that to accomplish what you showed in this video. If I were a luthier I would no doubt have one of these. In fact I might just buy one since I'm huge OCD nerd. 🤓
I learned Immediately, and I subscribed immediately. Thanks Dillon
Science! Great job and explanation, Dylan. Definitely looking forward to the nut-cutting info.
Really like this series of content.
Enjoy CO !!
@DylanTalksTone Thanks For Sharing 🎸 Take Care for now ✌
Luthiers Mercantile makes one for $49. Works great… and keeps my repair guys honest. Haha
My Suhr is under .010 all the way across and plays amazing. Not all brands can get that.
@@musicproductionvideos5019... That's .01 height off the 1st fret with guitar set up or .01 while pressing 3rd fret? If it's with guitar set up that must feel real nice and low... Easy and fast to play on first few frets...
Hi Dylan. I'll catch up this evening. I had a minute to hit the like. That tool looks pretty cool. Thanks for posting.
Gorgeous Gibson guitar.
Cant wait to see your next video. Could u also explain what are good measurements for the nut? When it comes to set ups i can adjust the truss rod, set intonation, and set action, but i dont know how to cut a nut at all. Definitely would love to learn as much as u can teach on this topic. Maybe in the future a soldering lesson too would be cool. Thanks for what u do Dylan!
He’s already put out a soldering video mate
@@Man_fay_the_Bru awesome. I have to look that one up. Thanks
Where do you think the string action should be on the Sable at the 12th fret? What do you recommend the heights should be for easy playability for rhythm strumming? Did you need to adjust action on your Sable?
Just bought it because of this video.
Shouldn't the standard just be that the guitar plays in tune at the first fret?
Good point. But, you can't really have that in the rest of the frets.
i think a lotta brands send them out totally uncut these daze. the last few guitars i bought new seemed that way.
No worries for me though I hear people complaining about that without understanding it's done on purpose.
Doesn’t the guitar need to be in playing position to measure properly? Otherwise gravity pulls the strings down closer to the fret?
I dont think the Fender nut was all over the place. Theirs seems to take a gradual declination.
35 30 27 28 23 ?
I recently bought a feeler gauge (the old fashioned one), but the way you hold yours makes me think yours is not as greasy as mine. How did you manage?
Why that’s nuts!
Mmmm.. I have both my guitars tuned to 0.012 on the low e, and 0.0015 on the high E, with no buzz. Why do you have to adjust so high?
Love that tool for the nut. Not so much for action at the 12th fret. I play 11-49s and I find that when the guitar is on its back, the string sag at the midpoint due to gravity is significant. The tool is not useful for a guitar in playing position.
@luisrovira2872 I get that the string sag could be an issue when the guitar is on its back, but why is the tool not useful in the playing position?
Gibson does plek their nuts.
Hello i want to convert my teisco e-guitar for slide ehich nut size should i take?
I bought a replacement bone nut for a cheap tele I have but it’s not as tall as the plastic one I’m replacing, can I shim the bone nut?
If you ever cut a nut with a fret file, it's way easy to cut too much. Human hair width is on average 4 to 8 thousands of an inch, so these are a lot more accurate than you think. We're basically splitting hairs here! Pun intended! Seriously though, one swipe of a file and you can be too deep and now you have to replace the nut. Been there and done that! A cool trick is using masking tape on the fretboard, stack them up until it flush with the first fret. Add at least one or two extra, strips (masking tape is about .004 per, strip depending on the tape). Anyway you cut the nut until it just kisses the tape. It gets you really close and matches the fretboard radius well.
I only put brass nuts on everything I build or modify. For one I like that it gives the guitar the exact same sound playing open notes and fretted, and secondly cutting the slot too deep really takes some work. Nothing you do in a swipe or two.
Once you get close - say within a few thou - a few swipes can absolutely go too deep in brass, and completely screw up your nut
That’s Nutz. 😂🤙🤙
When you said, "Let me show you how it works", you looked uber uncomfortable, and sounded it as well. You sure you were okay hawking that thing? lol
I play stings, and admire your knowledge, really enlightening me.., {~¿~}• thankyou Dylan
To my experience Ernie Balls have relatively too bad nut jobs. Even ball family reserve models have very bad samples. Slots are not good enough for a guitar in that price range, strings were too high, there are serious intonation problems in the first couple of frets; i still remember my disappointment very well.
This same tool is on Aliexpress for much cheaper
Why not measure the nut against the frets, and not the strings? When building a guitar, it has no strings. Do they just, "rough in" the nut, until the guitar is strung, and finished? Then go back and fix it? Doesn't sound very practical.
$122.09, for the same tool Elmer sells for, $66.99...
ScrewMac really likes to ignore normal business rules.
They hang lower with age, Dylan.
i think the age of your nuts matter according to how low they are. i'm guessing the old experienced guys at Texas Toast would agree
Texas toast isn't out of Texas?
The 12 year old in my laughs every video about a guitar nut.😅
my word, there is some mixed information in the video.
Every sentence contradicts the other.
Hehe… nuts.
Can we stop with the premier BS! "Premiers in 20 hours" Amazing! This takes space on the feed of something I could watch right now.
I am interested and want to watch it but I`m hiding it cuz I don`t want a jpg on my feed over something I could watch 🤷♂
Is it really that hard to scroll an extra inch? The reason for a premier is to enable live chat while everyone watches for the first time. I do agree it isn't necessary for more mundane videos though.
🥜🥜🥜🥜🥜🥜
Seriously?
Your measurements are not accurate because you don't know how to use the tool propoperly
feel free to elaborate
Lmao 😂 bruh is Making this way to complicated. You just use your eyes and ears.
I didn't know oompah loompa played guitar.