Some of us long in the tooth, greying, balding boomer DIYers have been “so happy we can hardly count” with our single driver/full range speaker build for well over 20 years. Somebody please send Randy a pair of FrugelHorn FH3s with Mark Audio or even Fostex 4” drivers. My personal favourites in that enclosure were the Alpair 7.3., MAOP7, and Fostex FF105WK, and my current Atmos system is A10.3/Pluvia 7 and Alpair 6 in the bed layer. If you bass management them properly and keep your listening at sane levels below 90dB, you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
When you discover DIY; you kind of come to understand cost. The biggest trick is to get over the consumer gratification of saying “look what I just bought”. Much harder to say “look what I just built” There is something in making it yourself that appeals to a small percentage of people. We are literally groomed by the industry to want what is on the shelf. No matter how appealing a DIY rig is. The larger percentage of hifi consumers will always go the other way. It’s the way the industry wants the money to flow. I like DIY. It’s really just a tiny step further than piecing a system together. Cheers and thanks cheap audio man.
So true! "Back in the Day" "Home-brew" HiFi was what it was all about. I remember the catalogs put out by Allied Radio, Lafayette, Radio Shack and others that sold raw speakers and DIY components. As a kid looking through those catalogs I would assemble my dream system, in my mind, but having no $$ would kick in. I think in the early days of JBL and some of the other big names they sold more raw speakers than complete systems. Folks would build their own cabinets (some the size of a small car) from plans from Popular Electronics or Science or buy a pre-made enclosure from Acustacraft (sp?) put in the speakers & crossovers and enjoy.
Niel is a really good guy, and has helped me in my own HiFi "journey" discussing amps, dacs, and linear PSUs. I am pumped to see his work highlighted here. I have a feeling he's going to be busy after this video!
I heard these speakers last year at Capital Audio Fest. They blew me away!!! I hope to hear them again this year. These are at the Top of my list!!! Thanks Randy! 👍👍👍
I’m a huge full range fan. I built some Pensil design enclosures for a pair of Mark Audio Pluvia 7.2 HD 4” full range drivers and they blew my mind. All of my other speakers have either been sold off or live in storage. No joke. These little 4” aluminum drivers, (I traditionally loathe metal speakers) in these enclosures, hit as low as 38Hz and all the way up past 30kHz! I then stumbled upon a Nelson Pass design for a full range speaker EQ that incorporates a bump in the low range and a slight dip at the top, points set based on the value of the resistors in specific slots and dialed an EQ that makes these little speakers absolutely sing. They were mind blowing before the EQ, don’t get me wrong, but with it… Let’s just say I haven’t fired up my subwoofer in about six months. Don’t need it. My super tweeters are in storage. I wish everyone could have a chance to hear these. I love that Niel is making these DIY designs so accessible. I had no idea how satisfying HiFi could really be until I listened to gear that I built. Assembled. I assembled it. I have no electrical engineering ability. I do have years of soldering experience and a bull headed belief that I can do anything. These speakers are my crowning achievement. Don’t tell my son 😉
@@otherwillsmith if you search online for baffle step filter calculator you will be able to calculate the values of the resistor and coil for your box then buy the closest value and mount them (it is dead simple and there are instructions around).
Looks like an amazing project, but I would definitely need Neil's 'flat pack' to make this. I wish him much success with this kit. All the best to you all. Take care.
I have my own single-driver based system set up in my bedroom together with a single-ended triode tube amp and a Wiim streamer with activated room correction. The room correction replaces Neil's baffle step filter, compensates for the room resonance at 50 Hz and reduces some niggles in the frequency response of the full range driver. Makes it more versatile, good at playing more types of music. It can't play loud. Its sound stage is wiiiiide and spacey. Transients like a plucked guitar string are super-realistic. Same for men's and women's voices. -> A dream with well recorded and not too complex/overloaded music. When I want to feel the music in my chest I use my big speakers instead.
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That sounds much like my "target " system. Philosophically that is close to optimum. To which big speakers do you listen? I'd like to find plans for a single 300B mono amp and use a full range driver. Years ago I built some parts express flat pak boxes and used their 4" 8Ω full range for some desk top speakers and was amazed at the purity. At about 18" away they impressed.
Ever since I heard a Clements RT7 transmission line speaker in a Federated store ~40 years ago, that particular tech has fascinated me. Among all the cheap speakers in that discount chain store, it just sounded special, with a bass that was extended and controlled far more than everything else in the room. Thanks for this video; it really made me smile.
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I worked with Phil Clements at Phase Research prior to his forming Clements.
Transmission line design is kind of like a reverse horn system. Instead of using a horn in front to load the driver's front wave to, a tunnel/ horn is behind the driver to control the back wave. The wave from the back of the driver is loaded into a path who's length and size controls the air pressures release into the room. Like a ported speaker but with additional time delay and more tuning. Because of the length of the transmission tunnel, it's output is delayed in time from the front wave. Thus the extra energy/ extended bass is because of the time delay/ smear.
The 3D acoustic modeling covers the cancellations due to phase shifts; and includes the distance on the outside of the cabinet between the center of the driver and the center of the terminus opening. What you do hear from the terminus opening is *in phase*.
@@haydendoan7691 see my response above - the air inside the TL couples more and more to the back of the driver cone; as the frequency goes down. This adds the mass of that air, which lowers the resonance frequency. Everything you hear coming out the terminus opening is in phase. Because you are getting lower bass from a smaller driver than you can with other designs - the "speed" and control of the bass is better than other designs.
The transmission line is likely a quarter wave TL, and the energy coming out of the opening is "in phase" with that of the drivers to compliment the output, that is why there is so much output for such a small driver! No time delay or smearing.
I built some DIY speakers back in the day that had a very rigid enclosure-cinder block. Chipped out the middle, glued plywood front and back, and popped in a single cone speaker with a tweeter in the middle of a woofer. Sounded pretty good.
The fact it is a transmission line is bada$$, I love unique designs and approaching solutions to a given problem in interesting and intelligent ways. Well done Neil!!
I have built quite a few single driver speakers using various driver manufacturers such as fostex, tangband, and Mark Audio. While they do have something different to offer and can be quite pleasing to listen to, without a baffle step correction circuit they all tend to sound a little thin. Depending on the baffle width frequencies below 400hz to 800hz are attenuated up to as much as 6db. Its unavoidable due to the physics of soundwaves. A baffle step correction circuit brings things back into balance with the tradeoff being some loss in spl sensitivity. There are other ways to address the baffle step loss. WiiM offers a parametric eq that can accomplish this. Also, putting the speakers against the rear wall can boost the lower end. The latter approach is probably the least desirable as the boost will be more focused on 150hz and down, leaving 150hz up to 500hz or so unaffected. Some imaging will also suffer from this last approach.
Years ago a buddy of mine who's electrical engineer designed my crossovers and cabinets he is also a huge audio guy and I use Dyna audio and a set of 3 1/2 in scan speak tweeters some of the best speakers I've ever heard
I used to have a pair of Lowther Acousta cabinets with Lowther PM6s, They were full range, horn loaded, and sounded wonderful, and could be driven from a 15 watt amp. Sounded great with my then NAD3020 and a Garrard turntable. All inexpensive, although i did get the Lowthers cheaply as they were second hand.
I've just been introduced to full range, single driver speakers via the Icon Audio Frm 2 floorstander. With a low power tube amp it is simply stunning. Like nothing I have heard before. I don't often get surprised these days, but I was astounded at how good they are. They don't need a sub, but they do benefit from one. Synergy is vital with full range speakers, but with the right amplification and musical choice they sound like nothing else.
whizzer cones are suboptimal for high frequencies. I preferred just using the Tang Band drivers with phase plug and accepting the high frequency rolloff.
got one pair of DIY speakers with single driver. its transmission line 8 inch with no crossovers. those are rated at 1 and 2 ohms and the sound is probably the best i have ever heard, not because they are mine
A ‘audiophile’ friend of mine built his own speakers ( this guy has a stand-alone room added to his garage, with the only purpose/design being listening to music )…I was surprised at how simple they were, and how great the sound was !
I have a pair of Mark Audio 4" fullrange speakers. They are my everyday speakers. My carpenter buddy built the boxes (bass reflex). I love them. Great detail without the Xover hassle. I do dial in a touch of subwoofer, not because they cant handle it, just to give them the ability to concentrate on their main job of details in the center. This speaker build here that you speak of interests me. For $300, I am very curious.
While they certainly are not for everyone, I believe that everyone would benefit from hearing a well-executed pair of single-driver speakers at least once. Especially if imaging is high on your list of desirable speaker attributes. Most of them will have some limitations with dynamics but the imaging with well-recorded source material can be utterly magical. And the transmission line is an excellent design to complement them too.
I have been designing and building my own speakers with great success. I know that driver and with a t line it can get some bass . Idk about a ton. Some full ranges need a notch filter. I built a really nice portable Bluetooth speaker with 2 Dayton 4" full range mids but I still used 1" titanium tweeters because the full range doesn't get the full high frequency. I also used a tang band 5.5 subwoofer with a 8 " passive radiator. It's a beast. I have built a lot of passive speakers but I like big speakers .
Several years ago I walked into a showroom in Paris selling DIY kits. They had many single driver speakers in the catalog. The Audax AM21 kit blew me away. There were some 2 way bookshelf speakers too. In my humble opinion, single driver speakers sound better. It just feels like getting your ears cleaned out. The midrange opens up. But 2-way speakers sound more dynamic. I mostly listen to Mac DeMarco so I am biased. Single driver speakers aren't the best for metal fans.
I upgraded the drivers in My Wharfedale Linton 2's and Bose 301 & 201's and Immediately Impressed with more Clarity and Deeper Bass from All Applications here. On The Cheap Side here, I did Spend More for these Quality Drivers.
The problem with a small coax/full range speaker like this is that the midbass cone is also the waveguide and it starts to suffer from doppler distortion when playing loud bass...
I feel these speakers particularly might be more suitable for jazz, which is often how I have seen other similar design presented - Fostex for example. Sorry if this sounds arrogant, but Randy, have you ever tried to audition with music that isn't maybe (for want of a better term) "top 40" type of stuff? There are much better and more sonically interesting tracks if you give them a chance. I have discovered so much interesting music since having Tidal and browsing different tracks.
I agree fully, there is so much to testing speakers with the right material, a go to for me is Maggot brain by funkadelic. It's a very hard one to do right with a wide range and amazing sound stage!!
I just finished a pair of T-line speakers based on the 8" Dayton Audio point source full range drivers PS220-8. They have an amazingly open sound but do require a little EQing to tame the midrange hump.
I like axial speakers. Theres a China seller using the same driver in a finished speaker but they list the driver size as 7"! Also looks like a transmission line. And they seem to be the only store offering this speaker on Ali
I built Neil’s Tower 6 speakers (photos are on his website. Mine are the black with natural bevels). They sound amazing! Bass down to 25hz. And the flatpack kit and crossovers were fun to build. Go for it’
Seeing one of your videos earlier this year got me interested in home audio again. I went the DIY full range route myself like these but with a pair of Mark audio Alpair 11 MS. Built the cabinets myself and couldn't be happier with them.
Just a reminder. Through windows you can add a bass boost that mimics a baffle step filter through the sound control panel, under device enhancements. Otherwise, use an amp with DSP like the (sureaudio) CJL BRU5 TPA3255 for less than 50$.
I am hoping Neil does a TL flat-pack for the 5 inch Tang Band with no baffle-step filter I need that for my low powered SE tube amps It looks very very promising, but as I understand it, he has some cool projects in his pipeline, so who knows if that will happen. The 5 inch Tang Band will be great from top to bottom in a TL
Oh man it’s great to see you with Neil’s speakers, I heard his amazing speakers at axpona and was definitely impressed with them, and the man himself (thanks again Neil, that was a great time!) hopefully he’ll be buried in orders after this vid gets out there!!!
Just visited Neil’s site. Not cheap. $50 for the plans. $250 for the flat pack. Then add on components for roughly $150. So for $450-500, you’ll have a fairly decent product. Also will have the satisfaction of building your own. There is absolutely nothing wrong with doing this. Great review and description. Many thanks
Right - $50 for the build manual, $70 for the pair of drivers, $15 for binding posts, ~$20 for wire and polyfil, a 5x5 sheet of 18mm Baltic birch plywood is $95 at my local supplier (you can build the speakers and a stands for them with this. That's $250; and the optional baffle step filter would cost $50, so $300. If you don't want to or can't cut your own cabinet, then the $95 becomes $250 (plus shipping). So $405 (plus the shipping), or $455 with the BSF.
Ok... now you need to do a review of his other speaker (Tower 6). [SB Accoutstics tweeter]. Yes its a little bit more... but I suspect it will out perform this one.
Me too! I built my BK16s when they first came out, maybe around year 2000? The flat pack I bought was maybe $100 each then. Never cared for the Fostex FE166 drivers, though. Too shouty. Much better for me are the Dayton Audio PS-180 neo drivers, an easy drop-in replacement. They respond well to equalization from my Schiit Lokius.
Nice that you pulled off that cool project..they'd be great for an office or den. I love the baltic birch too !! My fav full-range speaker are my Bose 901's I know some don'y like bose but the 901's really rock with 70's and 80's rock music. Two sets, stacked.. wit 175wpc really make some db's and my neighbors get to hear it LOUD occasionally too LoL .
In high school and college I had a pair of Sony (SL1 I think) transmission line design speakers and they were amazing. The bass was incredible with just a single tweeter and 6 inch woofer. I believe the speakers were actually made in the US in Maryland.
Been considering building a 2 way with the mark audio Alpair 10P, with first order crossovers to help the power handling. Good “full range” drivers often have very low power handling. Like 20-30W, but you can bump their distortion free output capabilities quite substantially by rolling them off at 150-200hz. If paired with a good woofer with a first order filter to simultaneously fill in the bottom 3 octaves and roll off gradually to act as baffle step compensation, you can build a VERY simple system from a design standpoint and have excellent sound quality. Crossover parts though few in number will unfortunately be expensive needing big inductors and caps for such a low crossover point though.
Due to my age (72) and HF hearing loss from too many years ignoring hearing protection in the wood shop, I personally prefer the MA metals, and have been using 3 different models in a small Atmos system for well 10 years now. With many modern Integrated amps or streamers such as the BlueSound Node, miniDSP, or horror of horrors- a moderately powered AVR - I think you can achieve sufficient bass management to avoid the need for any passive speaker level HP filtering. Considering the A10P’s sensitivity of 89dBnominal power handling of 30W RMS, excursion of 7mm and “Arrestor”, unless you have a very large room and insist on sustained concert levels, the risk of damage to the drivers is minimal. My own use case has all the MA drivers in the HT high passed by the AVR between 80 and 120Hz, with dual 8” ported subs and PEQ via miniDSP. In 10 years or so with several different MA drivers in this rig, and several upgrades to electronics, I’ve yet to damage anything.
@@fonkenful I listen at about 3 meters/yards in a open floor plan house. So 89db 1m 2.83V becomes 77db 2W, or 92db maximum. That’s okay dynamic headroom, but with a woofer eating up the power hungry wub-wub frequencies in a 2-way, you can hit reference levels easily at that distance.
@@MechAdv Fair enough. The MLP in 7.2.4 Atmos rig using Mark Audio drivers for the main bed level and dual subs is approx 4 meters. The reference of 75dB measured at that position during REW / miniDSP EQ process is close to my average movie watching. Room is sealed, approx 2720 cu ft. Don’t ask why I still want to mix those two measurement standards🤭
@ if you have it, tuned for THX reference, then you have your mains rolling off at 12db per octave at 80hz. That will make a big difference in power handling too, and tame intermodulation distortion in the high frequencies. You should probably play around with crossing to the subs at 120hz though, you might get a bit more dynamic range.
@@MechAdv The LPF for LFE is set at 120Hz - a figure I’ve seen touted many times by professional YT bloviators. Since starting to play around with REW and miniDSP a few months ago, I’ve been adjusting the HPF XO settings for the 7 bed layer and 4 height channels so much that I can’t actually remember the current individual values, but I’m sure they’re even higher than the “THX recommended default” of 80Hz. Since I’m currently away from home on a family vacation to Bermuda, I’ll need to wait another 2 weeks to double check, but I’m more or less on the same path you describe; I’ve long held that freeing up the bottom couple of octaves at least of heaviest lifting from “full range” drivers - or compact 2ways- is never a bad idea when it can be achieved seamlessly, and this is certainty true in a home theatre scenario.
Hi, I have a question......On my Sony AV receiver i have the option to run 4ohm or 8 ohm in the settings for speakers, all my speakers are 6ohm, which setting should i choose and does it make any difference Thank you.
Depends what "unique" means, unique could mean many things and not all of them are good. There's a lot to be said for tried and tested, we all know what to expect from good speakers. I might not enjoy an unique sound that I've never experienced before. But basically from what you said a transmission line is what BOSE used to give the Wave systems such big bass for their size. In that case, I am interested! I'm familiar with that sound and I have nostalgia for it.
Thanks for presenting something "different" and interesting, but 2 questions: What is the sensitivity of these speakers? and what are the components at the back? and what for? an LPad to compensate the response curve? I used to own IMF Transmission Lines and loved them, but they were very hard to drive, inefficient. I owned One driver speakers too: Lowther in Acousta cabinets: sensitive, very peaky response, fatiguing - could not live with them. These TL you introduce seem to be the cure.. I'll have a look. Thanks
@@GiguereSylvain The sensitivity spec is 88dB, though it is hard to know if that accurate? The coil and resistor on the back are the optional baffle step filter; which pulls the response from the midrange and above down by about 2dB. This effectively increases the bass relative to everything else; but obviously at the cost of sensitivity. It is on the outside on the review pair so it can be connected with and without the filter. With a full range driver you can do a notch filter to try to smooth out a bad peak; but with no crossover, you tend to be more at the mercy of the driver for overall tonal balance.
have a pair of bose 901 that i am upgrading with better drivers 8 in the back and 1 in the front. May turn them around back to front. It's essentially a single driver speaker. Plays very loud.
Help me out please! How do these compare to the X-LS Encore? they will be in a a12'x12' basement room I can build either cabinet so the question is how much better are the Encores, if at all? Thanks,
Interesting. Fairly certain Bose uses transmission lines in their portable soundlink mini Bluetooth speakers. Guessing response isn't very flat since the transmission lines are likely tuned for certain mid bass frequencies, but for their size, they produce decent bass presence.
Waveguides have characteristic transmission properties....temporal delays WITH acoustic dispersion....meaning those delays have spectral dependencies....sooo... One can say spectral phase contours.... I've designed optical wgs and these properties translate...peace
Pearl acoustics makes single driver transmission line speakers. The Sibelius. Disadvantage of such a design is treble will be less prominent, since the driver isn't a tweeter.
i would hardly expect any in that speaker. cone break up in higher freqs is an issue however with many smaller full range drivers. fo less expensive drivers i would expect this to be an issue although roll off might still not be present in terms of a freq sweep on a graph.
Imo that should be called a triple concentric driver because in one driver it has a tweeter ( kinda PSB style, wharfedale too ) a mid range and a bass driver stacked on top of one another. Anyway definitely interesting. Just curious about impedance and sensitivity.
There is the main cone and a so-called whizzer cone. The copper colored aluminum phase plug is in the center. The driver is rated at 88dB (which may or may not be accurate), and the minimum impedance is ~4.5 ohms.
I wonder if that speaker, not the whole unit, the speaker is the same or a cousin to the one used in the Pearl Acoustic's speaker? It is literally the same design though the speaker box while a cousin of this unit is a folded horn and it's something like 8x8x42. Yes, it's a Floor Stander.
@@middleearthltdA variation of the Alpair 10.3 metal - which is now out of production, but replaced by either the Alpair11MS or the more budget friendly CHN110 readily available to the DIY builder. Harley’s Sibelius design is assumed to be a variation of a folded Voigt pipe, but a very easy enclosure build for these drivers is the Scott Lindgren Pensil series ( an MLTL floorstander ) - a design I’ve used with two different Alpair models during the last 10 years. Scott also has numerous smaller standmount ported designs - pretty much something for every use case / taste.
The Markaudio driver used in the Sibelius is a nominal 6" with an aluminum cone with a domed "dust cap" that acts a bit like a tweeter, and costs roughly $110 each. The Sounderlink driver is a nominal 4" paper cone with a whizzer cone and a copper colored aluminum phase plug. The Sibelius is a (modified?) Voigt Pipe design, which is a wedge point down below the driver (just above the opening) and it flares wider all the way to the opening (which is smaller). I think it uses a fair bit of damping fiber batt in the narrow portion. My mass loaded transmission line designs all have their largest sections at the closed end, and they taper smaller toward the terminus opening. This means that the air *moves* back and forth (as opposed to compressing/decompressing as it does in most conventional designs). The added mass of the air that couples with the back of the driver cone lowers the resonance tuning, and can get much lower bass from a smaller driver. So you have a lower mass driver for cleaner midrange, with a "variable" mass loading as the frequency goes lower.
@@NeilBlanchardIndeed, we said pretty much the same thing. FWIW, I’m not entirely convinced of the need for 32mm French Oak. My own DIY Woden Pensils for A10.3 in heavily cross braced 3/4” Baltic Birch work just fine for me, and cost less than the sales tax on a pair of Sibelius SG. Something else I forgot to mention earlier is that Mark Fenlon intentionally voices the lower end FR of most of his drivers to avoid the need for baffle step loss compensation filters, and that even with drivers that might need such - Fostex FE or FF series, for example - so many modern integrated amps, AVRs and even popular streamers such as the WiiM, etc have sufficient EQ functionality to achieve that before the amp stage.
@@fonkenful yes - another advantage of TLs is they have lower air pressure inside - with one end being open, and the air is *moving* back and forth along the TL; rather than acting as a spring. This means there is less pressure to push against the panels, and therefore the panels flex less. Additionally, the internal baffles that form the TL are acting as braces - and they are asymmetrically located, so there are very few common modes of resonance in the cabinet. I have several new designs developed, that I want to build, and the one using the Markaudio driver is about third on that list.
Randy🥰 off topic but should I get the outlaw 2220 mono block or the bas x1? I have the basx2 stereo and basx2 mini. I really like them but I wanted to know your opinion on the outlaws. A part of me wants to get something different than the emoticas(which are amazing)
considering most speakers are made from MDF, I don't see it saving much money going for a smaller speaker and larger enclosure, I can see the large majority of customers wanting smaller encloses and everybody making those.
Watched the build video…multi million dollar wood working shop! Not a few Harbor Freight clamps but a few thousand worth of clamps, braces, and angles etc. 40 or 50 years of excellent woodworking experience and 10 to 12 weeks build time!!! Now I understand why Pearl Acoustics Silibus are $5k per pair!!!
looks like a tangband driver,,, tangband has very similar looking drivers for around $60 on parts express and tangband provides the transmission line or horn loaded box plans for free! no need for a crossover either!
I’ve had Harbor freight clamps for going on 8 years now. Work just as well as day one. Can’t say the same for the other brands I’ve owned. Their tools are even better now than in the past. Weird that you want affordable speakers but look down on affordable tools.
I am so very interested in a DIY speaker flat pack kit. However, I would want a full tower speaker that blew SVS titans or KEF R11 metas out of the water. I'm new to the scene of hi fidelity and in the "consumer due dillegence" period. Would be interested in a review of TOIDS or DYIsound flat pack kits that compare to tower speakers. No expectations since they may not be patron sponsors or whatever requirements need to be met. This review personally felt like you were saying it was not a multi use, under functioning speaker. Like someone said "hey, say you are disappointed without saying you are disappointed"... I really like the feel of wood in my hands.....highlight lol😅
Sounds like you need a pair of Tekton Design Moabs. Alot more SPL than the new SVS. Most towers are just bookshelves with extra woofers. Tekton uses many drivers, especially in the most important midrange.
I own a pair of Pearlacoustics Sibelius SG single driver Voigt tubes for about 3 years now. Differences to the Blanchard design: 8 ohm, lambda/4 design -> floor standers, 3.2 cm solid oak (not plywood), front ported (strange to see a rear port on the Blanchard), cost a bit more fully assembled 🙂. I have yet to listen to something that does not convince and enthrall me. From baroque chamber, to synth pop and hardcore punk. A sub can help if you want a bit more bass (Rel T9). The Sibelius is rather analytical, so will reveal a bad recording in all its nastiness. But with chamber music, I hear the room, which I thought was audiophile nonsense before I experienced it with the Sibelius. I was first thinking of trying the Blanchard as a fun project; I do plenty of woodworking for fun. But the description as "veiled" was not enticing. Will rather get some more music. But great that you feature both kits and single drivers!
You don't need such a large diameter of wire and it's detrimental to the speaker like that, use a thinner gauge you're not going to be pushing high Watts in the hundreds. you can have a smaller coil what is better with thinner gauge something like 18awg if you want more clarity change the resistor I don't know what it's got in there probably 40 kohms try a 36 or a bit lower that will give you more mid range also the coil as I suggested would help. If it's harsh put a 1uF or 0.47uF Jensen capacitor after the coil..! to negative
I made a pair of transmission line speakers in the late 1980s, because I was broke. Well before the internet so no on-line help/calculators, or Neils to help. It was a b*****rd to get it right. But they sounded fantastic. He gets my vote, and my order😊😊😊😊😊
Right - today we have 3D acoustic computer modeling (I use Hornresp) that does a vast number of calculations each time you make a change, and click the button. Transmission lines are much more complex to model than conventional box speakers. Though in the end, there are just 3 more pieces inside the cabinet - it looks simple enough, once it is built.
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I wish there were more people reviewing DIY gear.
Yes!
Same. I'm torn between buying a set of CSS Torri's or some Amiga Mt towers from Parts Express and I'd like more input.
Some of us long in the tooth, greying, balding boomer DIYers have been “so happy we can hardly count” with our single driver/full range speaker build for well over 20 years.
Somebody please send Randy a pair of FrugelHorn FH3s with Mark Audio or even Fostex 4” drivers. My personal favourites in that enclosure were the Alpair 7.3., MAOP7, and Fostex FF105WK, and my current Atmos system is A10.3/Pluvia 7 and Alpair 6 in the bed layer. If you bass management them properly and keep your listening at sane levels below 90dB, you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
These little drivers just can't get to the SPL levels I crave.
@@Hatebreeder716 I'd lean into the CSS offering, but it's a no lose choice. (I've DIY'ed for >20 years.)
I love the fact that there are people out there making DIY speakers easy to get into.
I want some adorable open baffle speakers.
When you discover DIY; you kind of come to understand cost. The biggest trick is to get over the consumer gratification of saying “look what I just bought”.
Much harder to say “look what I just built”
There is something in making it yourself that appeals to a small percentage of people. We are literally groomed by the industry to want what is on the shelf. No matter how appealing a DIY rig is. The larger percentage of hifi consumers will always go the other way. It’s the way the industry wants the money to flow. I like DIY. It’s really just a tiny step further than piecing a system together.
Cheers and thanks cheap audio man.
So true! "Back in the Day" "Home-brew" HiFi was what it was all about. I remember the catalogs put out by Allied Radio, Lafayette, Radio Shack and others that sold raw speakers and DIY components. As a kid looking through those catalogs I would assemble my dream system, in my mind, but having no $$ would kick in. I think in the early days of JBL and some of the other big names they sold more raw speakers than complete systems. Folks would build their own cabinets (some the size of a small car) from plans from Popular Electronics or Science or buy a pre-made enclosure from Acustacraft (sp?) put in the speakers & crossovers and enjoy.
Niel is a really good guy, and has helped me in my own HiFi "journey" discussing amps, dacs, and linear PSUs. I am pumped to see his work highlighted here. I have a feeling he's going to be busy after this video!
I heard these speakers last year at Capital Audio Fest. They blew me away!!! I hope to hear them again this year. These are at the Top of my list!!! Thanks Randy! 👍👍👍
I’m a huge full range fan. I built some Pensil design enclosures for a pair of Mark Audio Pluvia 7.2 HD 4” full range drivers and they blew my mind. All of my other speakers have either been sold off or live in storage. No joke. These little 4” aluminum drivers, (I traditionally loathe metal speakers) in these enclosures, hit as low as 38Hz and all the way up past 30kHz! I then stumbled upon a Nelson Pass design for a full range speaker EQ that incorporates a bump in the low range and a slight dip at the top, points set based on the value of the resistors in specific slots and dialed an EQ that makes these little speakers absolutely sing. They were mind blowing before the EQ, don’t get me wrong, but with it… Let’s just say I haven’t fired up my subwoofer in about six months. Don’t need it. My super tweeters are in storage. I wish everyone could have a chance to hear these.
I love that Niel is making these DIY designs so accessible. I had no idea how satisfying HiFi could really be until I listened to gear that I built. Assembled. I assembled it. I have no electrical engineering ability. I do have years of soldering experience and a bull headed belief that I can do anything. These speakers are my crowning achievement. Don’t tell my son 😉
I would love to learn more about those baffle step filter and whether my speakers could benefit from some.
@@otherwillsmith if you search online for baffle step filter calculator you will be able to calculate the values of the resistor and coil for your box then buy the closest value and mount them (it is dead simple and there are instructions around).
Looks like an amazing project, but I would definitely need Neil's 'flat pack' to make this. I wish him much success with this kit. All the best to you all. Take care.
I have my own single-driver based system set up in my bedroom together with a single-ended triode tube amp and a Wiim streamer with activated room correction.
The room correction replaces Neil's baffle step filter, compensates for the room resonance at 50 Hz and reduces some niggles in the frequency response of the full range driver. Makes it more versatile, good at playing more types of music.
It can't play loud. Its sound stage is wiiiiide and spacey. Transients like a plucked guitar string are super-realistic. Same for men's and women's voices.
-> A dream with well recorded and not too complex/overloaded music.
When I want to feel the music in my chest I use my big speakers instead.
That sounds much like my "target " system.
Philosophically that is close to optimum.
To which big speakers do you listen?
I'd like to find plans for a single 300B mono amp and use a full range driver.
Years ago I built some parts express flat pak boxes and used their 4" 8Ω full range for some desk top speakers and was amazed at the purity. At about 18" away they impressed.
Long time woodworker, Harbour freight clamps are pretty solid for the $$$ if your not making your living with them
Ever since I heard a Clements RT7 transmission line speaker in a Federated store ~40 years ago, that particular tech has fascinated me. Among all the cheap speakers in that discount chain store, it just sounded special, with a bass that was extended and controlled far more than everything else in the room. Thanks for this video; it really made me smile.
I worked with Phil Clements at Phase Research prior to his forming Clements.
Transmission line design is kind of like a reverse horn system. Instead of using a horn in front to load the driver's front wave to, a tunnel/ horn is behind the driver to control the back wave. The wave from the back of the driver is loaded into a path who's length and size controls the air pressures release into the room. Like a ported speaker but with additional time delay and more tuning. Because of the length of the transmission tunnel, it's output is delayed in time from the front wave. Thus the extra energy/ extended bass is because of the time delay/ smear.
I was wondering about this. So the delay could cause the bass to sound laggy?
The 3D acoustic modeling covers the cancellations due to phase shifts; and includes the distance on the outside of the cabinet between the center of the driver and the center of the terminus opening. What you do hear from the terminus opening is *in phase*.
@@haydendoan7691 see my response above - the air inside the TL couples more and more to the back of the driver cone; as the frequency goes down. This adds the mass of that air, which lowers the resonance frequency. Everything you hear coming out the terminus opening is in phase.
Because you are getting lower bass from a smaller driver than you can with other designs - the "speed" and control of the bass is better than other designs.
@glenncurry3041 : Yeah, but can it go to 11?
The transmission line is likely a quarter wave TL, and the energy coming out of the opening is "in phase" with that of the drivers to compliment the output, that is why there is so much output for such a small driver! No time delay or smearing.
I built some DIY speakers back in the day that had a very rigid enclosure-cinder block. Chipped out the middle, glued plywood front and back, and popped in a single cone speaker with a tweeter in the middle of a woofer. Sounded pretty good.
I really appreciate people doing stuff like Neil!
The fact it is a transmission line is bada$$, I love unique designs and approaching solutions to a given problem in interesting and intelligent ways. Well done Neil!!
I’ve been diy’ing for years, the only transmission lines I’ve built are TriTrix’s which are very good to me.
Glad to see you reviewing a popular priced DIY product. That's your unique niche: high value.
I have a pair of full range MLTL speakers that I built a few months ago - They are fantastic. I definitely encourage folks to give it a try.
I have built quite a few single driver speakers using various driver manufacturers such as fostex, tangband, and Mark Audio. While they do have something different to offer and can be quite pleasing to listen to, without a baffle step correction circuit they all tend to sound a little thin. Depending on the baffle width frequencies below 400hz to 800hz are attenuated up to as much as 6db. Its unavoidable due to the physics of soundwaves. A baffle step correction circuit brings things back into balance with the tradeoff being some loss in spl sensitivity. There are other ways to address the baffle step loss. WiiM offers a parametric eq that can accomplish this. Also, putting the speakers against the rear wall can boost the lower end. The latter approach is probably the least desirable as the boost will be more focused on 150hz and down, leaving 150hz up to 500hz or so unaffected. Some imaging will also suffer from this last approach.
Years ago a buddy of mine who's electrical engineer designed my crossovers and cabinets he is also a huge audio guy and I use Dyna audio and a set of 3 1/2 in scan speak tweeters some of the best speakers I've ever heard
The cabinetry looks nice and elegant too !
Thank you! The rabbeted corners are designed to have the 12mm (1/2") chamfered edges; which hides the glue joint within the Baltic birch laminations.
I used to have a pair of Lowther Acousta cabinets with Lowther PM6s, They were full range, horn loaded, and sounded wonderful, and could be driven from a 15 watt amp. Sounded great with my then NAD3020 and a Garrard turntable. All inexpensive, although i did get the Lowthers cheaply as they were second hand.
I've just been introduced to full range, single driver speakers via the Icon Audio Frm 2 floorstander.
With a low power tube amp it is simply stunning. Like nothing I have heard before. I don't often get surprised these days, but I was astounded at how good they are.
They don't need a sub, but they do benefit from one.
Synergy is vital with full range speakers, but with the right amplification and musical choice they sound like nothing else.
Love your videos very educational never heard or done a single speaker build I am kind of fond on Dayton audio full range drivers
whizzer cones are suboptimal for high frequencies. I preferred just using the Tang Band drivers with phase plug and accepting the high frequency rolloff.
got one pair of DIY speakers with single driver. its transmission line 8 inch with no crossovers. those are rated at 1 and 2 ohms and the sound is probably the best i have ever heard, not because they are mine
A ‘audiophile’ friend of mine built his own speakers ( this guy has a stand-alone room added to his garage, with the only purpose/design being listening to music )…I was surprised at how simple they were, and how great the sound was !
I have a pair of Mark Audio 4" fullrange speakers. They are my everyday speakers. My carpenter buddy built the boxes (bass reflex). I love them. Great detail without the Xover hassle. I do dial in a touch of subwoofer, not because they cant handle it, just to give them the ability to concentrate on their main job of details in the center. This speaker build here that you speak of interests me. For $300, I am very curious.
While they certainly are not for everyone, I believe that everyone would benefit from hearing a well-executed pair of single-driver speakers at least once. Especially if imaging is high on your list of desirable speaker attributes. Most of them will have some limitations with dynamics but the imaging with well-recorded source material can be utterly magical. And the transmission line is an excellent design to complement them too.
I have been designing and building my own speakers with great success. I know that driver and with a t line it can get some bass . Idk about a ton. Some full ranges need a notch filter. I built a really nice portable Bluetooth speaker with 2 Dayton 4" full range mids but I still used 1" titanium tweeters because the full range doesn't get the full high frequency. I also used a tang band 5.5 subwoofer with a 8 " passive radiator. It's a beast. I have built a lot of passive speakers but I like big speakers .
Randy, thank you for finally doing a review for a kit speaker please do more. Much appreciated
I love the concept of a transmission line speaker. Great video.
Glad to see you diving into DIY. I think it's a natural progression if your mission is to seek out high value audio. Hope to see more!
I'm still so in love with my 301 series II's. It must be the room they are in and how I have them placed.
Several years ago I walked into a showroom in Paris selling DIY kits. They had many single driver speakers in the catalog. The Audax AM21 kit blew me away. There were some 2 way bookshelf speakers too. In my humble opinion, single driver speakers sound better. It just feels like getting your ears cleaned out. The midrange opens up. But 2-way speakers sound more dynamic. I mostly listen to Mac DeMarco so I am biased. Single driver speakers aren't the best for metal fans.
Thanks for covering Neil’s work. They look great.
Very very cool. People need to pay attention to this.
Thanks for the review. Looks like a great project and entry point for a DIY build. When can we expect to see your review of the Cambridge EXA?
I upgraded the drivers in My Wharfedale Linton 2's and Bose 301 & 201's and Immediately Impressed with more Clarity and Deeper Bass from All Applications here.
On The Cheap Side here, I did Spend More for these Quality Drivers.
The problem with a small coax/full range speaker like this is that the midbass cone is also the waveguide and it starts to suffer from doppler distortion when playing loud bass...
I feel these speakers particularly might be more suitable for jazz, which is often how I have seen other similar design presented - Fostex for example. Sorry if this sounds arrogant, but Randy, have you ever tried to audition with music that isn't maybe (for want of a better term) "top 40" type of stuff? There are much better and more sonically interesting tracks if you give them a chance. I have discovered so much interesting music since having Tidal and browsing different tracks.
I agree fully, there is so much to testing speakers with the right material, a go to for me is Maggot brain by funkadelic. It's a very hard one to do right with a wide range and amazing sound stage!!
I just finished a pair of T-line speakers based on the 8" Dayton Audio point source full range drivers PS220-8. They have an amazingly open sound but do require a little EQing to tame the midrange hump.
I like axial speakers. Theres a China seller using the same driver in a finished speaker but they list the driver size as 7"! Also looks like a transmission line. And they seem to be the only store offering this speaker on Ali
I wonder if he sells them assembled. I remember when randy sold speakers for a brief time! I triedd to jump on it but was too late hehe
Yes, I am planning to sell finished speakers. Keep an eye on my website - thank you.
I built Neil’s Tower 6 speakers (photos are on his website. Mine are the black with natural bevels). They sound amazing! Bass down to 25hz. And the flatpack kit and crossovers were fun to build. Go for it’
Seeing one of your videos earlier this year got me interested in home audio again. I went the DIY full range route myself like these but with a pair of Mark audio Alpair 11 MS. Built the cabinets myself and couldn't be happier with them.
Just a reminder. Through windows you can add a bass boost that mimics a baffle step filter through the sound control panel, under device enhancements. Otherwise, use an amp with DSP like the (sureaudio) CJL BRU5 TPA3255 for less than 50$.
I am hoping Neil does a TL flat-pack for the 5 inch Tang Band with no baffle-step filter
I need that for my low powered SE tube amps
It looks very very promising, but as I understand it, he has some cool projects in his pipeline, so who knows if that will happen.
The 5 inch Tang Band will be great from top to bottom in a TL
@@middleearthltd I am going to be trying this. As well as the 8 ohm Sounderlink driver.
@ Excellent
Oh man it’s great to see you with Neil’s speakers, I heard his amazing speakers at axpona and was definitely impressed with them, and the man himself (thanks again Neil, that was a great time!) hopefully he’ll be buried in orders after this vid gets out there!!!
Just visited Neil’s site. Not cheap. $50 for the plans. $250 for the flat pack. Then add on components for roughly $150. So for $450-500, you’ll have a fairly decent product. Also will have the satisfaction of building your own.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with doing this.
Great review and description. Many thanks
Right - $50 for the build manual, $70 for the pair of drivers, $15 for binding posts, ~$20 for wire and polyfil, a 5x5 sheet of 18mm Baltic birch plywood is $95 at my local supplier (you can build the speakers and a stands for them with this. That's $250; and the optional baffle step filter would cost $50, so $300.
If you don't want to or can't cut your own cabinet, then the $95 becomes $250 (plus shipping). So $405 (plus the shipping), or $455 with the BSF.
Love transmission line speakers. Check out IMF/TDL speakers from the 80s and 90s.
At first sight of this speaker I thought it was a Pearl Acoustic. Great design Neil!
Ok... now you need to do a review of his other speaker (Tower 6). [SB Accoutstics tweeter].
Yes its a little bit more... but I suspect it will out perform this one.
I've been using the Madison BK16s for years now. Full range Fostex Fe166 drivers. Love em.
Me too! I built my BK16s when they first came out, maybe around year 2000? The flat pack I bought was maybe $100 each then. Never cared for the Fostex FE166 drivers, though. Too shouty. Much better for me are the Dayton Audio PS-180 neo drivers, an easy drop-in replacement. They respond well to equalization from my Schiit Lokius.
Nice that you pulled off that cool project..they'd be great for an office or den. I love the baltic birch too !! My fav full-range speaker are my Bose 901's I know some don'y like bose but the 901's really rock with 70's and 80's rock music. Two sets, stacked.. wit 175wpc really make some db's and my neighbors get to hear it LOUD occasionally too LoL .
Wonder how that compare to the foam panel excitor based diy speakers?
In high school and college I had a pair of Sony (SL1 I think) transmission line design speakers and they were amazing. The bass was incredible with just a single tweeter and 6 inch woofer. I believe the speakers were actually made in the US in Maryland.
Been considering building a 2 way with the mark audio Alpair 10P, with first order crossovers to help the power handling. Good “full range” drivers often have very low power handling. Like 20-30W, but you can bump their distortion free output capabilities quite substantially by rolling them off at 150-200hz. If paired with a good woofer with a first order filter to simultaneously fill in the bottom 3 octaves and roll off gradually to act as baffle step compensation, you can build a VERY simple system from a design standpoint and have excellent sound quality. Crossover parts though few in number will unfortunately be expensive needing big inductors and caps for such a low crossover point though.
Due to my age (72) and HF hearing loss from too many years ignoring hearing protection in the wood shop, I personally prefer the MA metals, and have been using 3 different models in a small Atmos system for well 10 years now. With many modern Integrated amps or streamers such as the BlueSound Node, miniDSP, or horror of horrors- a moderately powered AVR - I think you can achieve sufficient bass management to avoid the need for any passive speaker level HP filtering.
Considering the A10P’s sensitivity of 89dBnominal power handling of 30W RMS, excursion of 7mm and “Arrestor”, unless you have a very large room and insist on sustained concert levels, the risk of damage to the drivers is minimal.
My own use case has all the MA drivers in the HT high passed by the AVR between 80 and 120Hz, with dual 8” ported subs and PEQ via miniDSP. In 10 years or so with several different MA drivers in this rig, and several upgrades to electronics, I’ve yet to damage anything.
@@fonkenful I listen at about 3 meters/yards in a open floor plan house. So 89db 1m 2.83V becomes 77db 2W, or 92db maximum. That’s okay dynamic headroom, but with a woofer eating up the power hungry wub-wub frequencies in a 2-way, you can hit reference levels easily at that distance.
@@MechAdv Fair enough. The MLP in 7.2.4 Atmos rig using Mark Audio drivers for the main bed level and dual subs is approx 4 meters. The reference of 75dB measured at that position during REW / miniDSP EQ process is close to my average movie watching. Room is sealed, approx 2720 cu ft. Don’t ask why I still want to mix those two measurement standards🤭
@ if you have it, tuned for THX reference, then you have your mains rolling off at 12db per octave at 80hz. That will make a big difference in power handling too, and tame intermodulation distortion in the high frequencies. You should probably play around with crossing to the subs at 120hz though, you might get a bit more dynamic range.
@@MechAdv The LPF for LFE is set at 120Hz - a figure I’ve seen touted many times by professional YT bloviators. Since starting to play around with REW and miniDSP a few months ago, I’ve been adjusting the HPF XO settings for the 7 bed layer and 4 height channels so much that I can’t actually remember the current individual values, but I’m sure they’re even higher than the “THX recommended default” of 80Hz. Since I’m currently away from home on a family vacation to Bermuda, I’ll need to wait another 2 weeks to double check, but I’m more or less on the same path you describe; I’ve long held that freeing up the bottom couple of octaves at least of heaviest lifting from “full range” drivers - or compact 2ways- is never a bad idea when it can be achieved seamlessly, and this is certainty true in a home theatre scenario.
Hi, I have a question......On my Sony AV receiver i have the option to run 4ohm or 8 ohm in the settings for speakers, all my speakers are 6ohm, which setting should i choose and does it make any difference
Thank you.
Thanks for the video. I always like this kind of content!
Depends what "unique" means, unique could mean many things and not all of them are good. There's a lot to be said for tried and tested, we all know what to expect from good speakers. I might not enjoy an unique sound that I've never experienced before.
But basically from what you said a transmission line is what BOSE used to give the Wave systems such big bass for their size. In that case, I am interested! I'm familiar with that sound and I have nostalgia for it.
Thanks for presenting something "different" and interesting, but 2 questions:
What is the sensitivity of these speakers? and what are the components at the back? and what for? an LPad to compensate the response curve? I used to own IMF Transmission Lines and loved them, but they were very hard to drive, inefficient. I owned One driver speakers too: Lowther in Acousta cabinets: sensitive, very peaky response, fatiguing - could not live with them. These TL you introduce seem to be the cure.. I'll have a look. Thanks
@@GiguereSylvain The sensitivity spec is 88dB, though it is hard to know if that accurate?
The coil and resistor on the back are the optional baffle step filter; which pulls the response from the midrange and above down by about 2dB. This effectively increases the bass relative to everything else; but obviously at the cost of sensitivity. It is on the outside on the review pair so it can be connected with and without the filter.
With a full range driver you can do a notch filter to try to smooth out a bad peak; but with no crossover, you tend to be more at the mercy of the driver for overall tonal balance.
have a pair of bose 901 that i am upgrading with better drivers 8 in the back and 1 in the front. May turn them around back to front. It's essentially a single driver speaker. Plays very loud.
The Bose 901 has an active EQ in the box that they come with.
Help me out please! How do these compare to the X-LS Encore? they will be in a a12'x12' basement room I can build either cabinet so the question is how much better are the Encores, if at all? Thanks,
Interesting. Fairly certain Bose uses transmission lines in their portable soundlink mini Bluetooth speakers. Guessing response isn't very flat since the transmission lines are likely tuned for certain mid bass frequencies, but for their size, they produce decent bass presence.
Except that they’d likely have some fancy pants trademarked name for the design.
I have one I built with Mark Audio 3.5 inch. Good for nearfield listening. Use as desk speakers.
The betsy baffle from caintuck with the lii audio f15 is definitely a single driver open baffle diy kit worth looking into.
Pmc's entire philosophy is based on transmission line designs. All my hifi designs incorporate transmission line loading for the bass end xx
Wow! This looks like a budget version of my Closer Acoustics OGY. I hope that you'll hear a pair of OGYs someday. I love mine to bits.
Waveguides have characteristic transmission properties....temporal delays WITH acoustic dispersion....meaning those delays have spectral dependencies....sooo...
One can say spectral phase contours....
I've designed optical wgs and these properties translate...peace
Pearl acoustics makes single driver transmission line speakers. The Sibelius. Disadvantage of such a design is treble will be less prominent, since the driver isn't a tweeter.
Pearls sound stunning without any additional tweeter enhancement.
@ whole different animal
Sorry, no treble roll of on my Sibelius. I've owned them for a few years now.
i would hardly expect any in that speaker. cone break up in higher freqs is an issue however with many smaller full range drivers. fo less expensive drivers i would expect this to be an issue although roll off might still not be present in terms of a freq sweep on a graph.
Imo that should be called a triple concentric driver because in one driver it has a tweeter ( kinda PSB style, wharfedale too ) a mid range and a bass driver stacked on top of one another. Anyway definitely interesting. Just curious about impedance and sensitivity.
There is the main cone and a so-called whizzer cone. The copper colored aluminum phase plug is in the center. The driver is rated at 88dB (which may or may not be accurate), and the minimum impedance is ~4.5 ohms.
Good one.Nic to see a nom GR or CSS kit being reviewed
I wonder if that speaker, not the whole unit, the speaker is the same or a cousin to the one used in the Pearl Acoustic's speaker? It is literally the same design though the speaker box while a cousin of this unit is a folded horn and it's something like 8x8x42. Yes, it's a Floor Stander.
No the $6k Sibelius uses a proprietary Mark Audio speaker
@@middleearthltdA variation of the Alpair 10.3 metal - which is now out of production, but replaced by either the Alpair11MS or the more budget friendly CHN110 readily available to the DIY builder. Harley’s Sibelius design is assumed to be a variation of a folded Voigt pipe, but a very easy enclosure build for these drivers is the Scott Lindgren Pensil series ( an MLTL floorstander ) - a design I’ve used with two different Alpair models during the last 10 years. Scott also has numerous smaller standmount ported designs - pretty much something for every use case / taste.
The Markaudio driver used in the Sibelius is a nominal 6" with an aluminum cone with a domed "dust cap" that acts a bit like a tweeter, and costs roughly $110 each. The Sounderlink driver is a nominal 4" paper cone with a whizzer cone and a copper colored aluminum phase plug.
The Sibelius is a (modified?) Voigt Pipe design, which is a wedge point down below the driver (just above the opening) and it flares wider all the way to the opening (which is smaller). I think it uses a fair bit of damping fiber batt in the narrow portion.
My mass loaded transmission line designs all have their largest sections at the closed end, and they taper smaller toward the terminus opening. This means that the air *moves* back and forth (as opposed to compressing/decompressing as it does in most conventional designs). The added mass of the air that couples with the back of the driver cone lowers the resonance tuning, and can get much lower bass from a smaller driver. So you have a lower mass driver for cleaner midrange, with a "variable" mass loading as the frequency goes lower.
@@NeilBlanchardIndeed, we said pretty much the same thing. FWIW, I’m not entirely convinced of the need for 32mm French Oak. My own DIY Woden Pensils for A10.3 in heavily cross braced 3/4” Baltic Birch work just fine for me, and cost less than the sales tax on a pair of Sibelius SG.
Something else I forgot to mention earlier is that Mark Fenlon intentionally voices the lower end FR of most of his drivers to avoid the need for baffle step loss compensation filters, and that even with drivers that might need such - Fostex FE or FF series, for example - so many modern integrated amps, AVRs and even popular streamers such as the WiiM, etc have sufficient EQ functionality to achieve that before the amp stage.
@@fonkenful yes - another advantage of TLs is they have lower air pressure inside - with one end being open, and the air is *moving* back and forth along the TL; rather than acting as a spring. This means there is less pressure to push against the panels, and therefore the panels flex less.
Additionally, the internal baffles that form the TL are acting as braces - and they are asymmetrically located, so there are very few common modes of resonance in the cabinet.
I have several new designs developed, that I want to build, and the one using the Markaudio driver is about third on that list.
Wonder if he makes better crossovers for my Bowers 706
How is the transient response ? How does a symphony Orchestta sound ?
Why does his website say it's unsafe and Chrome blocks me from accessing it? Does he have an alternative site?
Are they active speakers? I noticed a switch on the top of one of them
No, they are passive speakers. I am not sure what you saw?
@@NeilBlanchardyou can see it at 3:54
@@kimbaleon27 - ah - that kind of switch! 🙂
The "corn maze" analogy was 10/10. :)
Great content, keep up the work!
Remind me of a pair i build years ago with SEAS Excel units.
it uses AIYIMA Full Range Speakers
you can buy them yourself and they are cheap and good
what about adding an aperian supertweeter on top of the speaker as well as the subwoofer you mentioned
Any idea of the sensitivity for use with an SET
The driver is rated at 88dB (which may or may not be accurate), and minimum impedance is ~4.5 ohms.
@@NeilBlanchard Thank you
@@DeMorcan you're welcome!
Randy🥰 off topic but should I get the outlaw 2220 mono block or the bas x1? I have the basx2 stereo and basx2 mini. I really like them but I wanted to know your opinion on the outlaws. A part of me wants to get something different than the emoticas(which are amazing)
I would like to see and hear single driver sealed cabinet active speakers with compensation for electromotive force.
Thanks for the review! Speaking of single driver speakers, ever tried Omega Loudspeakers?
considering most speakers are made from MDF, I don't see it saving much money going for a smaller speaker and larger enclosure, I can see the large majority of customers wanting smaller encloses and everybody making those.
Would like to hear a TL speaker on my Carver M500t amp. At this point in my journey, I’ll pay extra to have someone else do the build.
Watched the build video…multi million dollar wood working shop! Not a few Harbor Freight clamps but a few thousand worth of clamps, braces, and angles etc. 40 or 50 years of excellent woodworking experience and 10 to 12 weeks build time!!! Now I understand why Pearl Acoustics Silibus are $5k per pair!!!
looks like a tangband driver,,, tangband has very similar looking drivers for around $60 on parts express and tangband provides the transmission line or horn loaded box plans for free! no need for a crossover either!
You don’t have many friends do you?
I’ve had Harbor freight clamps for going on 8 years now. Work just as well as day one. Can’t say the same for the other brands I’ve owned. Their tools are even better now than in the past. Weird that you want affordable speakers but look down on affordable tools.
never heard a full range driver were the middle and top didnt modulate with bass lead tracks,even high end lowther transmission line types
You really should buy a set of lii song F 15s and build a set of baffles. DIY Single driver open baffles for 600$. They are spectacular.
It looks like either a fostex or lowther driver. Both of those are rated very highly
I am so very interested in a DIY speaker flat pack kit. However, I would want a full tower speaker that blew SVS titans or KEF R11 metas out of the water. I'm new to the scene of hi fidelity and in the "consumer due dillegence" period. Would be interested in a review of TOIDS or DYIsound flat pack kits that compare to tower speakers. No expectations since they may not be patron sponsors or whatever requirements need to be met.
This review personally felt like you were saying it was not a multi use, under functioning speaker. Like someone said "hey, say you are disappointed without saying you are disappointed"...
I really like the feel of wood in my hands.....highlight lol😅
Sounds like you need a pair of Tekton Design Moabs. Alot more SPL than the new SVS. Most towers are just bookshelves with extra woofers. Tekton uses many drivers, especially in the most important midrange.
What kind of chair are you using in this video?
I own a pair of Pearlacoustics Sibelius SG single driver Voigt tubes for about 3 years now. Differences to the Blanchard design: 8 ohm, lambda/4 design -> floor standers, 3.2 cm solid oak (not plywood), front ported (strange to see a rear port on the Blanchard), cost a bit more fully assembled 🙂. I have yet to listen to something that does not convince and enthrall me. From baroque chamber, to synth pop and hardcore punk. A sub can help if you want a bit more bass (Rel T9). The Sibelius is rather analytical, so will reveal a bad recording in all its nastiness. But with chamber music, I hear the room, which I thought was audiophile nonsense before I experienced it with the Sibelius.
I was first thinking of trying the Blanchard as a fun project; I do plenty of woodworking for fun. But the description as "veiled" was not enticing. Will rather get some more music. But great that you feature both kits and single drivers!
16:10 Harbor Freight's f-clamps are actually pretty good.
Do you have a playlist or Google doc or something with all of the songs you use for sound checks? Looking to add some more variety to my own playlist.
You don't need such a large diameter of wire and it's detrimental to the speaker like that, use a thinner gauge you're not going to be pushing high Watts in the hundreds. you can have a smaller coil what is better with thinner gauge something like 18awg
if you want more clarity change the resistor I don't know what it's got in there probably 40 kohms try a 36 or a bit lower that will give you more mid range also the coil as I suggested would help.
If it's harsh put a 1uF or 0.47uF Jensen capacitor after the coil..! to negative
Keeping the DCR as low as possible means that you lose as little sensitivity in the bass, as possible when using the baffle step filter.
I made a pair of transmission line speakers in the late 1980s, because I was broke. Well before the internet so no on-line help/calculators, or Neils to help. It was a b*****rd to get it right. But they sounded fantastic. He gets my vote, and my order😊😊😊😊😊
Right - today we have 3D acoustic computer modeling (I use Hornresp) that does a vast number of calculations each time you make a change, and click the button. Transmission lines are much more complex to model than conventional box speakers. Though in the end, there are just 3 more pieces inside the cabinet - it looks simple enough, once it is built.