I can only add to the other comments already here. Carbon anti slip paste on the saddle rails will help but I’m not a fan of carbon saddle rails. I prefer Ti. Marathon Racer will feel very different to Ones - personally I wouldn’t run Tubolitos in Marathon Racer, there isn’t much benefit once you’ve gone for heavier tyres. I’ve taken the all black Schwalbe Ones off my P Line and replaced them with Continental Urban Contact with a little Stan’s fluid in the AV4 inner tubes, I can’t tell the speed or ride comfort difference between these and Ones except I don’t puncture now. I’ve kept tan wall Ones on my CHPT3 for fun rides on clean roads. Keep up the great content, much love from Yorkshire ❤️
Hey! Thanks for making videos! In addition to the bikes, I like the music, your cute family, the bits of Japanese Shoko slips in, your New York accent, and of course all the great views of the city! Keep ‘em coming man!👍
Yeah was gonna say this. In a pinch you could use hairspray but try the carbon paste. Alright Edit: actually it looks too loose to fix by paste if you can shake it. On the tire. In a pinch if you can stick some cash in the space it can protect it. I haven’t had US dollars in a long time so I’m not sure what it’s made of but any kind of plastic based money can protect the sidewall while you wait for a new tire.
@@SingaporeUntold 'cash as tyre boot' gets mentioned alot in cycling, been road cycling for more than 15 years and never ever seen anyone use an actual bank note. I've seen a lot of things used but the most common was duct tape. Everyone used to carry some wrapped around the pump. Everyone switched to tubeless now, happy days.
I have used a Brand carbon saddle pin. But it was badly made and had differences in the diameter along its length, so you had to adjust the tension when using it! So now I use a titanium post, in black, and shaped like an original for theft security! Finn. Denmark
Since the seat rail is made from carbon fiber and the hardware that’s holding the seat rail is made from regular steel you would want to put a piece of tape between the two parts so they don’t cause corrode each other. Carbon fiber is an anode and steel is cathode. Whenever these two materials come into contact with each they will cause galvanic corrosion.
This video got a lot of attention. The seat post slippage is a problem that seems to have affected almost every first ballot buyers. Looking forward to an update from you. Keep up the good videos. I'm grateful.
Great video, as usual - but I had to laugh out loud when you got to the part when you say. "...and now I'll just let the air out of the tire to slip it paste brake - like a normal bike"! No, a "normal" bike's brake will nearly-universally incorporate a freaking QUICK-RELEASE TO SPREAD THE BRAKE CALIPER FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE WHEN REMOVING THE WHEEL! (Sorry for the all-caps, but this little peccadillo of mine has always seemed extremely dumb of Brompton!)
7:17 🤔 its interesting how tires changing your bike. I used Schwalbe Racer, Marathon, Marathon Plus and now Continental Contact Urbans. Long Story Short. Marathon Plus: - really Heavy - noticeable roll resistance in comparison - incredible hard to put on ( specially if new ) - makes the Brompton sluggish if fast + Bulletproof, can be ridden through glas, sharp stones only airless could be better. + really good ride quality in rain. Racer - noticeable prone to flats after 50% of its lifespan. - carefull with sharp trash on the streets + light + super right performance even in rain, on sand or unclean grounds. + makes the Brompton not sluggish The normal Marathon falls between Marathon Plus and Racer. Its in the Middle of all. Performance Weight Handling Protection All in the middle ... a good compromise if you are not into fixing your bike and want a set of tires that are "every day use" and "touring" capable. If you own a Brompton without Rear Rack and your most of the time in the City and not touring. Try the Contact Urbans. Low pressure (Semi) slicks ... really great tires. They are Schwalbe Racers but better for street riding. Btw Schwalbe is German for swallow. And just like Porsche its Schwalbe with an E, not Schwalb or Schalbi 😄 th-cam.com/video/ejt1anoJXMk/w-d-xo.html Just a small Fun Fact
👩🏼🦲Thanks for the info (Mr. T?) I will try the continental or JK tires next. I misspronounce Schwalbe since I only say it when I make these videos lol! Thanks for letting me know!
In German the ‘e’ at the end of a word is pronounced as ‘r’ (are) - additionally the letter ‘w’ is pronounced as a ‘v’ (vee)- so Schwalbe is pronounced: Sch-val-ber. Similarly, ‘Porsche’ is correctly pronounced: Porsch-are.
Thanks for all your great videos! Maybe the torque specification for the seat post is determined by legal liability reasons. If you tighten it so it doesn’t move and the rails break , they can say “We told them not to tighten it that much! “ !
For the saddle slippage I would degrease the p clip and rails first, no grease, then use a small strip of self amalgamating tape between rails and p clips. The tape is usually 0.5mm thick and has no glue on it, pretty cheap as well.
@R H. Buy carbon fiber grip. Owner of a T-Line. Noticed the same issues. Applied Finish Line Carbon Fiber Grip. No more slippage. I wouldn't over torque the saddle rails due to potential damage/crack.
The slippage between carbon and steel happened on seat post as well. Put a tape around the rail or apply a special anti slip paste will do the trick. I had my original racer tyre for 5 years and only worn out recently. Instead of tan wall Schwalbe one as recommended by friends, I stick to tan wall racer.
I've tried every tyre going on my steel Brompton, my Chpt3 Superlight, and my electric. The Conti Urban are very good - nice balance between weight and durability. A lot more feel through the bars and saddle than the Marathons. The Marathon Racer is better than the Marathon, but you're playing in the heavyweight division with them, so it's relative. Ultimately the best tyre was the Kojaks, from a riding perspective, but a puncture every ride was too much of a pain in the arse.
The *solution* for saddle slippage is to put grease on the pentaclip bolt threads! The problem is not that the 10Nm torque spec is wrong, it's that when they assemble the pentaclips they are assembling them with dry threads. Add some grease to the bolt threads and then torque to 10Nm. You will notice that the rocking in the pentaclip is gone, and that the seat will stop slipping.
@@BromptonFamilyTime I'm good! How are you? I still suggest disassembling and reassembling the pentaclip, and add some more grease on the bolt and threaded plate/nut. I noticed you were still feeling some rocking in the saddle at an indicated 10Nm. But I still think you're either not reaching the actual torque value (grease will help with this) or you just need to go a little higher on the torque value until the rocking goes away. As soon as I solved the rocking, the saddle totally stopped slipping back too.
@@RyanGuzy 😃 I will give it a try if the warranty doesn't replace it. I have no experience with carbon so I didn't want to increase the torque too much and risk damaging it.
Hey there, been watching your video for a while. Kudos for every upload, it’s very entertaining to watch. I was also lucky enough to get a T-line within the ballot in London and for me, unfortunately I haven’t had a good time with my T-line as there are ongoing issues has been back to the factory 3 times already. (The bike is still in the factory as we speak) But I guess my loss are people’s gain from my experience and knowledge within my the short period time I’ve had with my T-line. Saddle rail: So the torque setting for the bike as recommended by Brompton is incorrect, (they will eventually admit this soon when you take the bike back onto the shop) initially they tried 15N, but that still slipped and then afterwards Brompton junction torque it up to 18N (without any carbon paste) and this did the job. - Do as Brompton Junction to torque this for you as this is their liability. Tyres: There are many Brompton riders in the UK who use their bike for commuting short and long and non of them dare to commute on Schwalbe One tyres, they’re more for racing one race and that’s basically it. The best tyre for weight and rolling resistant is Conti Urban, and if you can get the new brown tan walls they’re only 50grams more but they offer better rolling resistant compared to all the marathon and better protection than the lightweight Schwalbe one. For reference when I got my Brompton I didn’t event ride it home as I didn’t want to puncture the tubolito inner tubes and the tyres with Conti Urban ones straight away with the tubolito inner tubes. FYI: Your pinched inner tube will be fine btw, there will be no chance of anything puncturing the racer (unless is it a huge nail). There is no harm in using your marathon tyres and I sorta admin you using than buying brand new for the sake of brand new. Just a shame the T-line bike will be a tad heavier now. Hope this all helps, enjoy your T-line hope you have better luck than I am having.
Wow I hope they get your bike back in working order asap. I am glad I have a spare saddle and penta clip so I am using that right now. I expected some problems with the T-Line since it is a new design. I will look into new tires soon. I think of tires as sneakers so I don't mind using any type since I can change them quickly. Good luck 👋🏻
Thanks, unfortunately it looks like I might be getting a refund due to the amount of issues that’s occurring on my bike. Pity it was a fun bike whilst it lasted. Word of advice would be, ride your bike when you get it back from Brompton for an hour and see if there are any issues and you can report/resolve the issues straight away.
@@danielpym9836 a lot tbh, creaky handlebar/stem (still ongoing), creaky pedals, 4 speed derailleur system not operating properly when folded, seatpost slipping, saddle rail issue. This is just so far, granted I did sign up for this and any snags I am reporting it back to Brompton to hopefully fix for the next batch.
Nice bike! I just noticed that you used your torque wrench to loosen the pentaclip bolt, I recommend you don’t do that so it won’t fall out of calibration sooner than it should be with proper use.
Carbon parts that interface with any type of metal surface require a carbon paste. I'm shocked this is not in their operation manual. You could probably add a small bit of carbon paste to these rails and get away with 8.5-9nm and I'd place a bet that you couldn't move it with force. You are putting two super smooth surfaces together, there needs to be one material that bites into the other to prevent slippage.
The video is pretty old and you may know it already, but I'll leave my opinion on repairing those tubes anyway: There are glue-free patches, all you need to do is wipe the tube with degreaser tissue, that comes with the patch and just apply the patch there like a sticky tape. I'm using cheap TPU tubes, already patched them with those patches- so far everything is good. Those patches with glue might be handy for bigger holes, I assume. And about that. When using glue you need to gently press the patch with your fingers, never use the clamp or similar things with lot of force. The same applies to regular butyl tubes btw. I've seen before how people tried to press the patch way too hard and it didn't worked. Not so long ago discovered this channel, now watching videos sometimes. It is fun to ride bikes like that.
I have clocked 500 miles since...lots of tightening screws came loose, rear brake centering screw, seat post tightening screws, etc. My classic steel has not such issue. Solution: Remove screws and apply a small amount of Loctite (green or blue).
@@BromptonFamilyTime I have noticed my average speed analysis via my activity app on my iphone is around 2Kmh higher. I put that down to lower rolling resistance.
@@BromptonFamilyTime While I share your scepticism the average improvement has been consistent over quite a few ride. Even better I can now slip into 5th in places where I would normally be in fourth gear. I have had my Brompton for several years and often cover the same local rides. The improved average speed is noticeable in the 1 km splits and the total overall. It seems clear to me that something has changed since I added the Continental tyres.
Park makes tire patches not to be confused with tube patches. I would patch that tire and keep using it. It was also in the back (added safety on failure).
That would probably work but I don't trust the tire anymore. I was getting too many flats on my work commute. Continental Urbans have been flat free since I changed to them.
Last time I checked, the Schwalbe One in black has yet to be released for retail sale. Schwalbe always does silly stuff like with their new tyres like that with Brompton to maintain exclusivity e.g. Tan Wall Marathon Racer and the Brompton Explorer. Eventually I expect them to sell the tyres. Continential Urban Contact are significantly heavier than Schwalbe One, hence better puncture resistance. I have torn Schwalbe One tyres myself too, riding over a sharp curb, but still fit Schwalbe Ones on my Superlight with Tubolito tubes to maintain the lightest configuration possible. That's the same reason why Brompton went with both this tyre and tube for their T line, no lighter combination exists. If you ride generally good condition roads and paths like here in Singapore, you don't need to swap out the Schwalbe Ones. They are light, fast, comfortable and really easy to install and remove (great when fixing a flat). I recommend and use stronger/heavier tyres myself on my other Brompton, for better peace of mind on longer rides over unknown terrain and road conditions. Tubolito tubes can be tricky to patch but the patches do work and saves you money over a new set of very expensive tubes. I have found the you need to be liberal with the cement glue and clamping helps too. Follow the instructions and do the water bath test before you refit the tubes. My patched Tubolito has been holding up well. The short valve stem on Tubolito is a pain but air leaks slower in a Tubolito versus a conventional rubber inner tube.
Thanks for the information. That would make sense. I will try to stop by the Junction and see how much the ONE tire costs. I would imagine they have the there even though they are not listed for sale online. I do like the Tubolito tubes so far. The orange stem looks different too.
@@BromptonFamilyTime LOL, I don't mind the Orange stem either (it does scream "hey look, I have money to burn!") but I also know folks who absolutely hate them and black it out with marker/paint.
Is pentaclip compatible with carbon saddle rails? Carbon rails and alloy rails are shaped differently. Also I would check the torque wrench to see if it is out of adjustment.
👩🏼🦲Tubolito Tubes. They came with the Brompton T-Line. I like them so far better than the regular tubes since they are lighter and seem to hold air longer.
👩🏼🦲I don't recommend the Tannus Tires unless your like me and have glass all over the road. I do notice more vibrations since they tire has less material and no cushioning like air tires. I still need them for my work commute. I was getting flats on my other bike as well running Continental Gaterskins.
Hi, I managed to get a puncture after a few minutes of getting the bike. I was told by the bike shop the inner tubes are hard to repair so it might not be your fault. The feeling I got from the shop was it wasn’t worth trying to repair the tubes.The roads where I am (Essex,Uk) are rough so I had to put on some heavier tougher tyres/inner tubes on.
I have been using the Continental Urban tires and have not had any flats in months. They are excellent. The tubolito tubes are fragile when installing so you have to take your time.
I switched to Contact Urban's from Schwalbe One and I think they are better for grip and puncture resistance. Weight is almost the same. I also read several revues of the Tubolito's and there does seem to be a consistent problem with patch not sticking. The soft, flexible valve also poses a problem of weakened base susceptible to leaks. Another frustration is that the valve head is too short to screw on to the pump head, neccessitating only leaver attachment, which is difficult, if not impossible because of the small wheel spoke cluster. All in all, it makes Turbolito's unreliable and a waste of money. Besides, Conti is less expensive, at least for now.
Had the same issue with pentaclip and saddle on my T line. Kept slipping even when torqued. Brought it to brompton junction and they are having it replaced so let’s see how that goes.
BFT: Did you also de-grease the Pentaclip where it clamps onto the saddle rails? Also, do carbon-railed saddles require carbon paste to be used when fitting, or is that only for carbon to carbon interfaces like saddle and seat post?
Hi just bought a P line, have you faced any 'ticking' sounds on 1st gear? Other that adjusting the cable barrel, is there any other way or working around other than changing the wheelsets? Possible that you can someday do a video about how to adjust the gearing since P Line and T Line gears are similar?
If it is new, you may have to make adjustments. I don't hear a ticking sound in 1st gear on my T Line. It should feel smooth in all gears when your pedaling. If it feels "sandy" than you may need to make an adjustment as it may be from the gears no aligned correctly. Please ask the bike shop to check. They can probably tell right away.
It's on Brompton video site dedicated to T-line. It mentioned anti-slip (some called carbon grab paste) on saddle. Your experience aligned with their testing which recommended antislip paste.
Seriously considering the T-line after having the C for five glorious years. I was thinking of going with the Brooks Black saddle instead of the stock one, do you think this problem with the saddle would still persist though?
Hello BFT just hv a question, not sure if you can kind enough to answer it and or even making a video for it. Recently, I had a thought that I want to (temporary) change my 6 Speed to 2 Speed (lighten the weight), is it as simple as just change the rear wheel and shorten the chain? and I can leave all the cable along? And when I want to ride as 6 speed then I just put back the 6 speed rear wheel? Thanks
I don't think the weight savings is worth the weight reduction alone. Are you using all 6 gears? Have you done any other upgrades? Of the top of my head, I think it can be done, but you would have to remove one of the shifters or tie the end of it so it doesn't move around. I am planning on chaning my 3 speed sturmey archer hub to a 2 speed eventually but it will be permanant.
@@BromptonFamilyTime thank you for the reply. Very much appreciated. Ive another bike on 6 speed (go to work bike). But my 2nd bike is my reserved bike. So during the normal day i would just ride lighter that is why this idea comes in mind. Also, I saw u got a lots different wheels at the background, I would be doing wht u hv mentioned. Keep the hub shifter/cable(fasten on the frame) n just use the external shifter for the 2 speed rear wheel. Pls do share the video that u r changing the 3 speed hub to the 2 speed wheel. Tkq once agin. U da best!
@@phungmoe2302 Check out Brommieplus's website. There wheel sets are cheaper than most and the quality is really good. They can answer your tech questions as well.
@@BromptonFamilyTime Yes I read about that and it will do the job but I think it is more suited to bikes with a fixed stem, not one that slides up and down. If you don't fold the bike then great but.....humm!
I would put a piece of Black electrical tape along the whole length of both rails. This should stop slippage between 2 different types of materials. As for the tyre - obviously safety is paramount but I am loathe to trash a tyre. I have had side-wall issues a couple times so I am now extra careful when using tyre levers when taking the tyre off as I think that caused the problem. Both times I have inserted a nylon 'tyre boot' in the damaged area and ridden with reduced pressure on the back tyre until it wears out. Each time I had no further problems and no tyre bulge. As I said I baulk at trashing tyres with lots of miles left on them. Nice articulate videos c/w cute kid ;-)
After using carbon paste it stopped slipping. I have noticed many scratches from tire levers too. I recently switched to continental urbans and they come on and off easier. Schwalbe Marathons are much harder to install.
Hi, I would like to know whats your personally view on your superlight vs at T line? I have read up and see some people selling their P Line fully mods and they are comparing it with T line..since these sellers are moving towards lighter weights by buying then a P line and upgraded the parts.. thanks!
I don't use a torque wrench on my wheel nuts. I simply tighten them. I've never had a problem with them coming loose. I would ask a Brompton mechanic to check since if you are having the same problem over and over.
It hasn't moved since I used carbon paste. Since then, Brompton also recommends carbon paste for this issue. So I don't think it is a problem any more.
In my torque wrench history, I've never seen anyone use them as a wrench. Even driving school bus it is only to set the tension of the bolts. I think it is written in the documentation also. YMMV
haha. actually I don't like the design of the Pentaclip, which complicates how a seat clamp should be, such as the single bolt and double bolt type seat posts..
For now my Lightweight is down to 9,35 kilos, still also with ordinary mudguards, on which I intend to change the "Heavy Metal" clamps and the holders to the frame, to lighter, carbon clamps with bolts (China, A.E.) holding the titanium struts, and two aluminum holders. It is an easy fix, so I wonder why the Factory gives it Titanium struts, just for the looks it seems, as the metal clamps on the mudguards are really heavy, ordinary metal ones still😄? I may be able to save a little by changing from the original aluminum mudguards to carbon also (I did find out that mine are originally from Carbon!!)? As a man I of course have a titanium skeleton folding lock, titanium bolts on my brakes and holding the fork in the frame, as a wedge. Also a titanium axle in front, as security parts in the back and on the fork. It is just for the fun of it, as I, as a 100 kilo tall and heavy man could for much less money save 10 or 20 kilos 😁. Finn. Denmark
@@BromptonFamilyTime I still have the original M handlebar, to be changed for a carbon version. As the stem post could be changed to titanium, but that is expensive, and I would like to keep it looking stock in original Flaming Yellow (Black version)!
I would have tried repairing the tyre with superglue. There is now a *flexible* kind of superglue, that may be quite satisfactory for tyre repair. This is more likely to work where the edges of the perforation have been cleanly cut and can be brought together to fit accurately. Certainly, I wouldn't throw the tyre away until I had given it a shot, possibly with some reinforcement inside... ("boot")
👩🏼🦲 The sidewall was weak in that area so any bump would compress the tire and I don't think it would hold long. I would try it if it was not on the sidewall area.
@@BromptonFamilyTime "Sidewall weak in that area?" Are you saying the tyre was badly manufactured, and had a zone in the sidewall that was less strong than the sidewalls generally? If so, you were extraordinarily unlucky to have whatever caused the puncture find that exact point of weakness! Maybe I am getting the wrong impression, but, I have to say, it didn't look like a particularly big hole...(shrugs) and a tyre boot patch is meant to strengthen locally, which task they mostly perform pretty well. Your decision, naturally... but I was horrified when you sheared apart what looked to me like a fully repairable tyre, hence my comments. Please note: This is the first time I have looked askance at anything appearing in a video of yours.
@@effyleven It's fine as long as it is not damaged. I don't trust it anymore under pressure. Around the hole it was scratched up pretty bad. I ride fast down the bridges and the last thing I need is to worry about the tire so I replaced it.
@@BromptonFamilyTime Okay, my friend. I take your point! Time for me to acknowledge your decision. Thank you for responding so graciously. Best Wishes to you... and the family, of course. 😚
👩🏼🦲Yes we have them on our steel bike and I swap them out on my superlight for commuting to work. I try to take them off on the weekend on the superlight because the T-Line is much faster so I need to be able to make the riding fun for both riders. They save me from getting a flat riding to work every week. I see so much glass and nails! That said, I don't recommend them unless you need them since they speed reduction is noticeable (20%-25% slower).
@@BromptonFamilyTime Thank you for the reply, your knowledge is always appreciated. I don't need them for speed just peace of mind while cycling. However, I don't want it to be a chore, huffing and puffy along LOL.
My personal opinion, but I don't feel lke you need to replace the tire just because there is "comestic" issue on the side. Yes, there is a hole, but it's not like it's unrepairable. I feel like you can patch it up, and could reuse it. I guess to me it feels wasteful, and I think it would have been a good oppertunity to learn and see how well the repair would hold up through times, rather than just spending money on a new tire. Anyways, it's your money, your bike, so it's your call.
Yeah tubolitos , if I were touring I would have a full spare and just repair the broken one at night. They are quite compact and light to carry a spare. In my case I called a car and went home when I got a flat 😅 Damn what happen to your repair kit. I followed the directions and it worked. Sealed up for me. Perhaps put a little less glue and put on the tube and patch end both thin glue and make sure they air dry for that minute
I don't patch anymore but when i did we used a bit of flame to make the glue stick better. Now i just use sealant in tubes. And when i had a flat with sealant call CAA and get ride home. CAA is like AAA, looked so funny flat bed trailer with my bike strapped on it.
CARBON rails for a saddle is TOTAL MADNESS the wrong material in the wrong place , its inherent weakness is exemplified on the Brompton seat post that had to be reinforced and rightfully so because of abraision concerns . As soon as the volume is reduced this allows for slippage .A temporarily fix would be to roll a small piece of emery paper and place it on the rails before tightening , this will give the grip a better chance of remaining stable. I really question the use of this material in the seat post and forks , why they couldn't fit Titanium parts here is a real mystery .
👩🏼🦲I have always stayed away from carbon and carbon fiber parts and this is my first experience using them on a bike. I like the weight savings. I hope Brompton works out a solution. Thanks for the emergency tip.
@@duncanhamilton5841 Any Carbon parts is a ticking time bomb on a bike , I;ve seen a pair of handlebars totally give way as a rider was cornering he survived but it could have been fatal !
Carbon fibre saddle rails. Why? Stupid idea, especially if a comparatively light rider like you is experiencing slippage and can’t tighten the Pentaclip sufficiently. As for tyres, forget trying to look trendy - the Conti Urban Contact is the best Brompton solution. Light, free-rolling, very puncture resistant. But don’t get the folding version, or you will be back to paper-thin, flimsy sidewalls which have been the cause of your current problem.
Is the Pentaclip.... throw it away! Put back the C line Clip. Sorry simply 💩 clip! Or take back to Brompton n tell them to exchange a C Line clip instead.
@@BromptonFamilyTime Brompton failed on the P Line, yet didn't fix it on the T Line! Maybe by 2023 Brompton will recall all the earlier T lines and fix them for free. Meanwhile, just stay safe friend!
By the way, I've owned both of them and SOLD THEM ASAP! Now I will wait until further notice! Waiting for T Line, reInvent internal Liteweight hub for 6 speeds, If as! 🤣
Marathon Racer feels faster. Marathon feels more comfortable. On wet surfaces, due to the tread pattern, Marathon may skid, especially when starting your bike in the rain.
I’ve been using Marathons for 10 years, I’ve never had one skid on wet surfaces. I ride on and off-road and get around 4,500 miles from a pair before the green underlayer starts to show through. I bought a pair of Continental Urban Contact tyres (reflective black wall) in a recent sale at £25 each, but have yet to fit them as my 2nd set of Marathons are still going strong with plenty of tread left.
@@platypushatstand Yes. They're a durable powerhouse, though a bit heavy. I live in Hong Kong, where roads are not in very good in conditions, so that might be be cause😅
Here is a question for the Brompton community , does anyone know where the Titanium is sourced from for the T line ,because if it is Russia I will cancel my order immediateley .
![[BROMPTON T-LINE UPGRADE] H&H CHAIN TENSIONER](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/k0dmcurmt7o/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Part 1] รักมาไม่ทันตั้งตัว❤ หนุ่มสาวโสดถูกจับมาแต่งงานกันกะทันหัน แถมเธอยังเป็นหัวหน้าของเขา?!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/y2pOOMkuFI0/mqdefault.jpg)
![[ENGSUB] UNPRODUCTIVE DAY ใช้ชีวิต (เปื่อยๆ) ด้วยกัน 1 วัน! | OUROAD CLOSEFRiEND SS2 EP.9](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pyYKZ3kra9w/mqdefault.jpg)
I can only add to the other comments already here.
Carbon anti slip paste on the saddle rails will help but I’m not a fan of carbon saddle rails. I prefer Ti.
Marathon Racer will feel very different to Ones - personally I wouldn’t run Tubolitos in Marathon Racer, there isn’t much benefit once you’ve gone for heavier tyres.
I’ve taken the all black Schwalbe Ones off my P Line and replaced them with Continental Urban Contact with a little Stan’s fluid in the AV4 inner tubes, I can’t tell the speed or ride comfort difference between these and Ones except I don’t puncture now.
I’ve kept tan wall Ones on my CHPT3 for fun rides on clean roads.
Keep up the great content, much love from Yorkshire ❤️
Hey! Thanks for making videos! In addition to the bikes, I like the music, your cute family, the bits of Japanese Shoko slips in, your New York accent, and of course all the great views of the city! Keep ‘em coming man!👍
Thanks! We appreciate everyone watching. The city is a great place to ride as long as you are careful.
For carbon rails, you may need a carbon fiber anti slip paste to prevent slippage. It increases surface friction.
👩🏼🦲Hi Gin. Thanks for the tip. I will definitely try it. I didn't know they made a paste for this.
Yeah was gonna say this. In a pinch you could use hairspray but try the carbon paste. Alright
Edit: actually it looks too loose to fix by paste if you can shake it.
On the tire. In a pinch if you can stick some cash in the space it can protect it. I haven’t had US dollars in a long time so I’m not sure what it’s made of but any kind of plastic based money can protect the sidewall while you wait for a new tire.
Singapore is right. Now Canadian money is plastic. Send me a thousand US dollars and i will send you a Thousand Canadian. ;-)
@@SingaporeUntold 'cash as tyre boot' gets mentioned alot in cycling, been road cycling for more than 15 years and never ever seen anyone use an actual bank note. I've seen a lot of things used but the most common was duct tape. Everyone used to carry some wrapped around the pump. Everyone switched to tubeless now, happy days.
I have used a Brand carbon saddle pin. But it was badly made and had differences in the diameter along its length, so you had to adjust the tension when using it! So now I use a titanium post, in black, and shaped like an original for theft security! Finn. Denmark
Since the seat rail is made from carbon fiber and the hardware that’s holding the seat rail is made from regular steel you would want to put a piece of tape between the two parts so they don’t cause corrode each other. Carbon fiber is an anode and steel is cathode. Whenever these two materials come into contact with each they will cause galvanic corrosion.
This video got a lot of attention. The seat post slippage is a problem that seems to have affected almost every first ballot buyers. Looking forward to an update from you. Keep up the good videos. I'm grateful.
Believe the seat is carbon, have you tried to put a carbon paste to solve that problem?
Great video, as usual - but I had to laugh out loud when you got to the part when you say. "...and now I'll just let the air out of the tire to slip it paste brake - like a normal bike"! No, a "normal" bike's brake will nearly-universally incorporate a freaking QUICK-RELEASE TO SPREAD THE BRAKE CALIPER FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE WHEN REMOVING THE WHEEL! (Sorry for the all-caps, but this little peccadillo of mine has always seemed extremely dumb of Brompton!)
7:17 🤔 its interesting how tires changing your bike.
I used
Schwalbe Racer,
Marathon,
Marathon Plus and now
Continental Contact Urbans.
Long Story Short.
Marathon Plus:
- really Heavy
- noticeable roll resistance in comparison
- incredible hard to put on ( specially if new )
- makes the Brompton sluggish if fast
+ Bulletproof, can be ridden through glas, sharp stones only airless could be better.
+ really good ride quality in rain.
Racer
- noticeable prone to flats after 50% of its lifespan.
- carefull with sharp trash on the streets
+ light
+ super right performance even in rain, on sand or unclean grounds.
+ makes the Brompton not sluggish
The normal Marathon falls between Marathon Plus and Racer.
Its in the Middle of all.
Performance
Weight
Handling
Protection
All in the middle ... a good compromise if you are not into fixing your bike and want a set of tires that are "every day use" and "touring" capable.
If you own a Brompton without Rear Rack and your most of the time in the City and not touring.
Try the Contact Urbans.
Low pressure (Semi) slicks ... really great tires.
They are Schwalbe Racers but better for street riding.
Btw Schwalbe is German for swallow.
And just like Porsche its Schwalbe with an E, not Schwalb or Schalbi 😄
th-cam.com/video/ejt1anoJXMk/w-d-xo.html
Just a small Fun Fact
👩🏼🦲Thanks for the info (Mr. T?) I will try the continental or JK tires next. I misspronounce Schwalbe since I only say it when I make these videos lol! Thanks for letting me know!
In German the ‘e’ at the end of a word is pronounced as ‘r’ (are) - additionally the letter ‘w’ is pronounced as a ‘v’ (vee)- so Schwalbe is pronounced: Sch-val-ber. Similarly, ‘Porsche’ is correctly pronounced: Porsch-are.
This is a most useful tyre summary. Thank you for providing it.
Thanks for all your great videos! Maybe the torque specification for the seat post is determined by legal liability reasons. If you tighten it so it doesn’t move and the rails break , they can say “We told them not to tighten it that much! “ !
I’ve had the racer tire on my Brompton for over 2 years, it’s been perfect!
The Racers are great all around tires!
How many km? That’s more relevant..😎
@@gerardzuidema219 check out 2bikes4adventure channel. They have a review on the differences between the tires including speed differences.
Great point❤ about the 30 minute cure time on the tube. 😢
For the saddle slippage I would degrease the p clip and rails first, no grease, then use a small strip of self amalgamating tape between rails and p clips. The tape is usually 0.5mm thick and has no glue on it, pretty cheap as well.
@R H. Buy carbon fiber grip. Owner of a T-Line. Noticed the same issues. Applied Finish Line Carbon Fiber Grip. No more slippage. I wouldn't over torque the saddle rails due to potential damage/crack.
👩🏼🦲It seems like that is the most recommended solution. I will give it a try. 👍
The slippage between carbon and steel happened on seat post as well. Put a tape around the rail or apply a special anti slip paste will do the trick. I had my original racer tyre for 5 years and only worn out recently. Instead of tan wall Schwalbe one as recommended by friends, I stick to tan wall racer.
Can consider Continental Contact Urban tyres next. Very grippy and relatively low rolling resistance!
👩🏼🦲Yes I was looking at getting them next or possible the JK ones since they are cheaper.
I went to Contis and much prefer them to all other options.
I've tried every tyre going on my steel Brompton, my Chpt3 Superlight, and my electric. The Conti Urban are very good - nice balance between weight and durability. A lot more feel through the bars and saddle than the Marathons. The Marathon Racer is better than the Marathon, but you're playing in the heavyweight division with them, so it's relative. Ultimately the best tyre was the Kojaks, from a riding perspective, but a puncture every ride was too much of a pain in the arse.
👩🏼🦲Did they stop making the Kojaks? I liked them. It looks like a new tire design comes out every few years.
@@BromptonFamilyTime I've no idea, to be honest - I haven't bought any in years.
The *solution* for saddle slippage is to put grease on the pentaclip bolt threads! The problem is not that the 10Nm torque spec is wrong, it's that when they assemble the pentaclips they are assembling them with dry threads. Add some grease to the bolt threads and then torque to 10Nm. You will notice that the rocking in the pentaclip is gone, and that the seat will stop slipping.
👩🏼🦲 Hey Ryan. How's it going? I did grease my bolt thread before putting it back on the first time so I am sure the grease is still on it.
@@BromptonFamilyTime I'm good! How are you? I still suggest disassembling and reassembling the pentaclip, and add some more grease on the bolt and threaded plate/nut. I noticed you were still feeling some rocking in the saddle at an indicated 10Nm. But I still think you're either not reaching the actual torque value (grease will help with this) or you just need to go a little higher on the torque value until the rocking goes away. As soon as I solved the rocking, the saddle totally stopped slipping back too.
@@RyanGuzy 😃 I will give it a try if the warranty doesn't replace it. I have no experience with carbon so I didn't want to increase the torque too much and risk damaging it.
Hey there, been watching your video for a while. Kudos for every upload, it’s very entertaining to watch.
I was also lucky enough to get a T-line within the ballot in London and for me, unfortunately I haven’t had a good time with my T-line as there are ongoing issues has been back to the factory 3 times already. (The bike is still in the factory as we speak)
But I guess my loss are people’s gain from my experience and knowledge within my the short period time I’ve had with my T-line.
Saddle rail:
So the torque setting for the bike as recommended by Brompton is incorrect, (they will eventually admit this soon when you take the bike back onto the shop) initially they tried 15N, but that still slipped and then afterwards Brompton junction torque it up to 18N (without any carbon paste) and this did the job. - Do as Brompton Junction to torque this for you as this is their liability.
Tyres:
There are many Brompton riders in the UK who use their bike for commuting short and long and non of them dare to commute on Schwalbe One tyres, they’re more for racing one race and that’s basically it. The best tyre for weight and rolling resistant is Conti Urban, and if you can get the new brown tan walls they’re only 50grams more but they offer better rolling resistant compared to all the marathon and better protection than the lightweight Schwalbe one. For reference when I got my Brompton I didn’t event ride it home as I didn’t want to puncture the tubolito inner tubes and the tyres with Conti Urban ones straight away with the tubolito inner tubes.
FYI: Your pinched inner tube will be fine btw, there will be no chance of anything puncturing the racer (unless is it a huge nail).
There is no harm in using your marathon tyres and I sorta admin you using than buying brand new for the sake of brand new. Just a shame the T-line bike will be a tad heavier now.
Hope this all helps, enjoy your T-line hope you have better luck than I am having.
Wow I hope they get your bike back in working order asap. I am glad I have a spare saddle and penta clip so I am using that right now. I expected some problems with the T-Line since it is a new design. I will look into new tires soon. I think of tires as sneakers so I don't mind using any type since I can change them quickly. Good luck 👋🏻
Thanks, unfortunately it looks like I might be getting a refund due to the amount of issues that’s occurring on my bike. Pity it was a fun bike whilst it lasted. Word of advice would be, ride your bike when you get it back from Brompton for an hour and see if there are any issues and you can report/resolve the issues straight away.
@@HoHienKe1986 can I ask what has gone wrong with your t line ?
@@HoHienKe1986 Refund or replacement? I still love my T-Line 😍 and I would be willing to wait until they find a solution.
@@danielpym9836 a lot tbh, creaky handlebar/stem (still ongoing), creaky pedals, 4 speed derailleur system not operating properly when folded, seatpost slipping, saddle rail issue. This is just so far, granted I did sign up for this and any snags I am reporting it back to Brompton to hopefully fix for the next batch.
Good video, but you have certainly put me off tubolito inner tubes. Thanks for the video nice work.
Nice bike! I just noticed that you used your torque wrench to loosen the pentaclip bolt, I recommend you don’t do that so it won’t fall out of calibration sooner than it should be with proper use.
Great point!
Carbon parts that interface with any type of metal surface require a carbon paste. I'm shocked this is not in their operation manual. You could probably add a small bit of carbon paste to these rails and get away with 8.5-9nm and I'd place a bet that you couldn't move it with force. You are putting two super smooth surfaces together, there needs to be one material that bites into the other to prevent slippage.
Try add some carbon grease it will help holding up the saddle!
The video is pretty old and you may know it already, but I'll leave my opinion on repairing those tubes anyway:
There are glue-free patches, all you need to do is wipe the tube with degreaser tissue, that comes with the patch and just apply the patch there like a sticky tape. I'm using cheap TPU tubes, already patched them with those patches- so far everything is good.
Those patches with glue might be handy for bigger holes, I assume. And about that. When using glue you need to gently press the patch with your fingers, never use the clamp or similar things with lot of force. The same applies to regular butyl tubes btw. I've seen before how people tried to press the patch way too hard and it didn't worked.
Not so long ago discovered this channel, now watching videos sometimes. It is fun to ride bikes like that.
I have clocked 500 miles since...lots of tightening screws came loose, rear brake centering screw, seat post tightening screws, etc. My classic steel has not such issue. Solution: Remove screws and apply a small amount of Loctite (green or blue).
I use removable loctite when I have that problem. It does work every time!
I agree that the Continental Urban is an excellent choice. Very low rolling resistance. Try them once your current tyres wear out.
I love the Urbans. They are probably the best tires I have used so far on the Brompton.
@@BromptonFamilyTime I have noticed my average speed analysis via my activity app on my iphone is around 2Kmh higher. I put that down to lower rolling resistance.
I have always wondered how accurate GPS devices are. I guess we can only tell if we use a mechanical device.
@@BromptonFamilyTime While I share your scepticism the average improvement has been consistent over quite a few ride. Even better I can now slip into 5th in places where I would normally be in fourth gear. I have had my Brompton for several years and often cover the same local rides. The improved average speed is noticeable in the 1 km splits and the total overall. It seems clear to me that something has changed since I added the Continental tyres.
Where did you get your Glasses? what brand? It looks cool and good ^^
Thanks !
th-cam.com/video/hIprWkBFJKk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=CUoUE1Za1ghMBly4
Park makes tire patches not to be confused with tube patches. I would patch that tire and keep using it. It was also in the back (added safety on failure).
That would probably work but I don't trust the tire anymore. I was getting too many flats on my work commute. Continental Urbans have been flat free since I changed to them.
Great video! What type of bike stand do you have ?: Thanks
CXWXC Bike Repair Stand on Amazon for $65. Works great!
Last time I checked, the Schwalbe One in black has yet to be released for retail sale. Schwalbe always does silly stuff like with their new tyres like that with Brompton to maintain exclusivity e.g. Tan Wall Marathon Racer and the Brompton Explorer. Eventually I expect them to sell the tyres.
Continential Urban Contact are significantly heavier than Schwalbe One, hence better puncture resistance. I have torn Schwalbe One tyres myself too, riding over a sharp curb, but still fit Schwalbe Ones on my Superlight with Tubolito tubes to maintain the lightest configuration possible. That's the same reason why Brompton went with both this tyre and tube for their T line, no lighter combination exists. If you ride generally good condition roads and paths like here in Singapore, you don't need to swap out the Schwalbe Ones. They are light, fast, comfortable and really easy to install and remove (great when fixing a flat). I recommend and use stronger/heavier tyres myself on my other Brompton, for better peace of mind on longer rides over unknown terrain and road conditions.
Tubolito tubes can be tricky to patch but the patches do work and saves you money over a new set of very expensive tubes. I have found the you need to be liberal with the cement glue and clamping helps too. Follow the instructions and do the water bath test before you refit the tubes. My patched Tubolito has been holding up well. The short valve stem on Tubolito is a pain but air leaks slower in a Tubolito versus a conventional rubber inner tube.
Thanks for the information. That would make sense. I will try to stop by the Junction and see how much the ONE tire costs. I would imagine they have the there even though they are not listed for sale online.
I do like the Tubolito tubes so far. The orange stem looks different too.
@@BromptonFamilyTime LOL, I don't mind the Orange stem either (it does scream "hey look, I have money to burn!") but I also know folks who absolutely hate them and black it out with marker/paint.
Is pentaclip compatible with carbon saddle rails? Carbon rails and alloy rails are shaped differently. Also I would check the torque wrench to see if it is out of adjustment.
The new Pentaclip is compatible with both round and oval frame rails. So you should be able to use any type of saddle.
What's the brand of your interior? It looks unique. Mostly, I only see black inner tubes.
👩🏼🦲Tubolito Tubes. They came with the Brompton T-Line. I like them so far better than the regular tubes since they are lighter and seem to hold air longer.
Can you tell me how much vibration you feel w Tannus vs Schwalbe tires? big difference or little for nyc bad roads
👩🏼🦲I don't recommend the Tannus Tires unless your like me and have glass all over the road. I do notice more vibrations since they tire has less material and no cushioning like air tires. I still need them for my work commute. I was getting flats on my other bike as well running Continental Gaterskins.
Hi, I managed to get a puncture after a few minutes of getting the bike. I was told by the bike shop the inner tubes are hard to repair so it might not be your fault. The feeling I got from the shop was it wasn’t worth trying to repair the tubes.The roads where I am (Essex,Uk) are rough so I had to put on some heavier tougher tyres/inner tubes on.
I have been using the Continental Urban tires and have not had any flats in months. They are excellent. The tubolito tubes are fragile when installing so you have to take your time.
I switched to Contact Urban's from Schwalbe One and I think they are better for grip and puncture resistance. Weight is almost the same. I also read several revues of the Tubolito's and there does seem to be a consistent problem with patch not sticking. The soft, flexible valve also poses a problem of weakened base susceptible to leaks. Another frustration is that the valve head is too short to screw on to the pump head, neccessitating only leaver attachment, which is difficult, if not impossible because of the small wheel spoke cluster. All in all, it makes Turbolito's unreliable and a waste of money. Besides, Conti is less expensive, at least for now.
👩🏼🦲Thanks for the info. I will look intot he Urbans. It looks like they are a good alternative.
The Turbolitos just seem altogether too fragile for commuting use, but YMMV
Had the same issue with pentaclip and saddle on my T line. Kept slipping even when torqued. Brought it to brompton junction and they are having it replaced so let’s see how that goes.
👩🏼🦲 Someone recommended carbon fiber paste so I may give that a try. Let me know if your problem is resolved at the junction. 👍
BFT: Did you also de-grease the Pentaclip where it clamps onto the saddle rails?
Also, do carbon-railed saddles require carbon paste to be used when fitting, or is that only for carbon to carbon interfaces like saddle and seat post?
Hi just bought a P line, have you faced any 'ticking' sounds on 1st gear? Other that adjusting the cable barrel, is there any other way or working around other than changing the wheelsets? Possible that you can someday do a video about how to adjust the gearing since P Line and T Line gears are similar?
If it is new, you may have to make adjustments. I don't hear a ticking sound in 1st gear on my T Line. It should feel smooth in all gears when your pedaling. If it feels "sandy" than you may need to make an adjustment as it may be from the gears no aligned correctly. Please ask the bike shop to check. They can probably tell right away.
@@BromptonFamilyTime thanks! Yes, it does feels ‘sandy’, maybe i’ll adjust it myself. You do very good vibes videos, keep it up!
Make sure you keep your chain clean and lubricated too!
Add carbon grip (or anti slip) paste per Brompton guide should address the slipping of the saddle. I have Brompton T-line.
👩🏼🦲What guide? Does it say that in the manual (that I haven't read) lol
It's on Brompton video site dedicated to T-line. It mentioned anti-slip (some called carbon grab paste) on saddle. Your experience aligned with their testing which recommended antislip paste.
Seriously considering the T-line after having the C for five glorious years. I was thinking of going with the Brooks Black saddle instead of the stock one, do you think this problem with the saddle would still persist though?
After using Carbon Paste the problem has not happened.
I use one of those 3M plastic tape for my carbon rail.
They are light and cheap! Can't beat that!
Hello BFT just hv a question, not sure if you can kind enough to answer it and or even making a video for it.
Recently, I had a thought that I want to (temporary) change my 6 Speed to 2 Speed (lighten the weight), is it as simple as just change the rear wheel and shorten the chain? and I can leave all the cable along? And when I want to ride as 6 speed then I just put back the 6 speed rear wheel? Thanks
I don't think the weight savings is worth the weight reduction alone. Are you using all 6 gears? Have you done any other upgrades? Of the top of my head, I think it can be done, but you would have to remove one of the shifters or tie the end of it so it doesn't move around. I am planning on chaning my 3 speed sturmey archer hub to a 2 speed eventually but it will be permanant.
@@BromptonFamilyTime thank you for the reply. Very much appreciated. Ive another bike on 6 speed (go to work bike). But my 2nd bike is my reserved bike. So during the normal day i would just ride lighter that is why this idea comes in mind. Also, I saw u got a lots different wheels at the background, I would be doing wht u hv mentioned. Keep the hub shifter/cable(fasten on the frame) n just use the external shifter for the 2 speed rear wheel. Pls do share the video that u r changing the 3 speed hub to the 2 speed wheel. Tkq once agin. U da best!
@@phungmoe2302 Check out Brommieplus's website. There wheel sets are cheaper than most and the quality is really good. They can answer your tech questions as well.
I’ve not fixed a tube for years, a spare one; this is the way.
Flat free since I changed to Continental Urbans on all my bikes! I'm really happy so far.
have you tried Ridenow tubes？They are much cheaper though heavier ...
👩🏼🦲 No I have tried a few off brands but the Tubolito tubes seem to be the best so far.
The clamp for the saddle, if I may recommend an AceOffix Clamp, which is lighter than the Brompton version and functions better, to my opinion.🙂
Hi Finn. Do you have a link? I would consider a different clamp.
I'd be grateful for your reasons why it is better than the Brompton clamp because my Brompton clamp keeps slipping.
@@slicedpage I am trying carbon friction paste. It feels like sand in gel.
@@BromptonFamilyTime Yes I read about that and it will do the job but I think it is more suited to bikes with a fixed stem, not one that slides up and down. If you don't fold the bike then great but.....humm!
@@slicedpage The AceOffix clamp uses wedges in a ring, instead of the complicated, and heavy plate system on the original clamp! Finn. Denmark
You might need some carbon assembly paste on this rails to stop the slipping
That is what I have been using at the recommendation of Brompton. It hasn't slipped since.
Put small small amount of carbon paste on the saddle clamp area
Does anyone have the seat post slippage problem with their second ballot T Line?
Can anyone say where they are selling the Schwalbe One Black tires? Google is coming up empty.
Three thin latex tubes failed in first week - Not ever using again. Marathons have held up across Spain so they are now my only choice for long rides.
I would put a piece of Black electrical tape along the whole length of both rails. This should stop slippage between 2 different types of materials. As for the tyre - obviously safety is paramount but I am loathe to trash a tyre. I have had side-wall issues a couple times so I am now extra careful when using tyre levers when taking the tyre off as I think that caused the problem. Both times I have inserted a nylon 'tyre boot' in the damaged area and ridden with reduced pressure on the back tyre until it wears out. Each time I had no further problems and no tyre bulge. As I said I baulk at trashing tyres with lots of miles left on them. Nice articulate videos c/w cute kid ;-)
After using carbon paste it stopped slipping. I have noticed many scratches from tire levers too. I recently switched to continental urbans and they come on and off easier. Schwalbe Marathons are much harder to install.
Carbon grease for the saddle rail.
It's working on my Selle Italia SP-01 Tekno Super Boost saddle good so far. It feels like sand in gel.
Hi, I would like to know whats your personally view on your superlight vs at T line? I have read up and see some people selling their P Line fully mods and they are comparing it with T line..since these sellers are moving towards lighter weights by buying then a P line and upgraded the parts.. thanks!
I will do a video about it soon!
@@BromptonFamilyTime great!!!
Halo, may I know how you tighten the rear wheel nut? I tighten the rear wheel nut to 8nm, it will get loose😢
I don't use a torque wrench on my wheel nuts. I simply tighten them. I've never had a problem with them coming loose. I would ask a Brompton mechanic to check since if you are having the same problem over and over.
For the saddle issue, I wonder if it is the bolt that is loosing, not the seat/rail. maybe try locktight or cut locking washer
It hasn't moved since I used carbon paste. Since then, Brompton also recommends carbon paste for this issue. So I don't think it is a problem any more.
I have a copenhagen. Learning maintenance because having problem with chain.
It's really a great idea to learn little by little about the bike. I don't like going to bike shops.
I just ordered a set of Continental Contact Urbans, not that happy with the Schwable Marathons
👩🏼🦲 I hear good things about the Continental Contact Urbans. I hope they work out for you.
In my torque wrench history, I've never seen anyone use them as a wrench. Even driving school bus it is only to set the tension of the bolts. I think it is written in the documentation also. YMMV
👩🏼🦲I only use it as a wrench on lower torque. I haven't any problems so far 👍
shouldnt the seat post go into the middle of the bolt rather than behind it?
The bolt goes through the pentaclip part which is attached to the top of the seatpost.
haha. actually I don't like the design of the Pentaclip, which complicates how a seat clamp should be, such as the single bolt and double bolt type seat posts..
👩🏼🦲 I agree. I would imagine there has to be a simpler and lighter design.
@@BromptonFamilyTime 😀
Can you add thicker knobby tires?
The only knobbyish tires that I see are the Schwalbe Almotion that just came out.
Apparently, you have wrongly installed the saddle. The rail should be mounted at the top part of the clamp😢
Why does it have to be on the top?
And it isn't just because the saddle's rails don't fit the opening in the clamp, holding the saddle?
For now my Lightweight is down to 9,35 kilos, still also with ordinary mudguards, on which I intend to change the "Heavy Metal" clamps and the holders to the frame, to lighter, carbon clamps with bolts (China, A.E.) holding the titanium struts, and two aluminum holders. It is an easy fix, so I wonder why the Factory gives it Titanium struts, just for the looks it seems, as the metal clamps on the mudguards are really heavy, ordinary metal ones still😄? I may be able to save a little by changing from the original aluminum mudguards to carbon also (I did find out that mine are originally from Carbon!!)? As a man I of course have a titanium skeleton folding lock, titanium bolts on my brakes and holding the fork in the frame, as a wedge. Also a titanium axle in front, as security parts in the back and on the fork.
It is just for the fun of it, as I, as a 100 kilo tall and heavy man could for much less money save 10 or 20 kilos 😁. Finn. Denmark
Nice. I think the carbon one will look nicer too. It's hard to stop upgrading lol.
@@BromptonFamilyTime I still have the original M handlebar, to be changed for a carbon version. As the stem post could be changed to titanium, but that is expensive, and I would like to keep it looking stock in original Flaming Yellow (Black version)!
I would have tried repairing the tyre with superglue. There is now a *flexible* kind of superglue, that may be quite satisfactory for tyre repair. This is more likely to work where the edges of the perforation have been cleanly cut and can be brought together to fit accurately.
Certainly, I wouldn't throw the tyre away until I had given it a shot, possibly with some reinforcement inside... ("boot")
👩🏼🦲 The sidewall was weak in that area so any bump would compress the tire and I don't think it would hold long. I would try it if it was not on the sidewall area.
@@BromptonFamilyTime "Sidewall weak in that area?" Are you saying the tyre was badly manufactured, and had a zone in the sidewall that was less strong than the sidewalls generally?
If so, you were extraordinarily unlucky to have whatever caused the puncture find that exact point of weakness!
Maybe I am getting the wrong impression, but, I have to say, it didn't look like a particularly big hole...(shrugs) and a tyre boot patch is meant to strengthen locally, which task they mostly perform pretty well.
Your decision, naturally... but I was horrified when you sheared apart what looked to me like a fully repairable tyre, hence my comments.
Please note: This is the first time I have looked askance at anything appearing in a video of yours.
@@effyleven It's fine as long as it is not damaged. I don't trust it anymore under pressure. Around the hole it was scratched up pretty bad. I ride fast down the bridges and the last thing I need is to worry about the tire so I replaced it.
@@BromptonFamilyTime Okay, my friend. I take your point! Time for me to acknowledge your decision.
Thank you for responding so graciously.
Best Wishes to you... and the family, of course. 😚
Nice
I heard that a rumor that Brompton may come out with a Titanium six, yes, 6 speed :-)
Between your T line and your Super light. which is your favorite?
👩🏼🦲I like them both about the same 🤣 The T-Line is built faster, but I like the superlight just as much since I changed all the parts myself.
@@BromptonFamilyTime haha but if you can only have one?
don't you like the tannus tyres anymore?
👩🏼🦲Yes we have them on our steel bike and I swap them out on my superlight for commuting to work. I try to take them off on the weekend on the superlight because the T-Line is much faster so I need to be able to make the riding fun for both riders. They save me from getting a flat riding to work every week. I see so much glass and nails! That said, I don't recommend them unless you need them since they speed reduction is noticeable (20%-25% slower).
@@BromptonFamilyTime Thank you for the reply, your knowledge is always appreciated. I don't need them for speed just peace of mind while cycling. However, I don't want it to be a chore, huffing and puffy along LOL.
My personal opinion, but I don't feel lke you need to replace the tire just because there is "comestic" issue on the side. Yes, there is a hole, but it's not like it's unrepairable. I feel like you can patch it up, and could reuse it. I guess to me it feels wasteful, and I think it would have been a good oppertunity to learn and see how well the repair would hold up through times, rather than just spending money on a new tire. Anyways, it's your money, your bike, so it's your call.
Torque wrench should be used only to screw, not to unscrew
Apply glue to both touching area. Wait 30 mins for glue to dry before patch it. This is how I do to my shoe. Oops 🙊
👩🏼🦲🤣I will try both sides next time!
Yeah tubolitos , if I were touring I would have a full spare and just repair the broken one at night. They are quite compact and light to carry a spare.
In my case I called a car and went home when I got a flat 😅
Damn what happen to your repair kit. I followed the directions and it worked. Sealed up for me.
Perhaps put a little less glue and put on the tube and patch end both thin glue and make sure they air dry for that minute
I don't patch anymore but when i did we used a bit of flame to make the glue stick better. Now i just use sealant in tubes. And when i had a flat with sealant call CAA and get ride home. CAA is like AAA, looked so funny flat bed trailer with my bike strapped on it.
👩🏼🦲When I have more time I will try using it again.
tubes for 16 inch wheels are really light to begin with
the rail on mine is on the bottom...and no saddle sliding for me
I haven't had any problems after using carbon paste. Works great!
CARBON rails for a saddle is TOTAL MADNESS the wrong material in the wrong place , its inherent weakness is exemplified on the Brompton seat post that had to be reinforced and rightfully so because of abraision concerns . As soon as the volume is reduced this allows for slippage .A temporarily fix would be to roll a small piece of emery paper and place it on the rails before tightening , this will give the grip a better chance of remaining stable. I really question the use of this material in the seat post and forks , why they couldn't fit Titanium parts here is a real mystery .
👩🏼🦲I have always stayed away from carbon and carbon fiber parts and this is my first experience using them on a bike. I like the weight savings. I hope Brompton works out a solution. Thanks for the emergency tip.
There's a Chpt3 x Brooks C13 Cambium on ebay at the moment. The carbon rails are a mess - someone is gonna have a nasty surprise with that.
@@duncanhamilton5841 Any Carbon parts is a ticking time bomb on a bike , I;ve seen a pair of handlebars totally give way as a rider was cornering he survived but it could have been fatal !
Carbon fibre saddle rails. Why? Stupid idea, especially if a comparatively light rider like you is experiencing slippage and can’t tighten the Pentaclip sufficiently. As for tyres, forget trying to look trendy - the Conti Urban Contact is the best Brompton solution. Light, free-rolling, very puncture resistant. But don’t get the folding version, or you will be back to paper-thin, flimsy sidewalls which have been the cause of your current problem.
You need carbon paste. We’re carbon meets metal parts, do you need carbon paste. It will hold it in place.
We have been using carbon paste and it has not moved. I think Brompton recommends this now too.
Use this to solve the problem, Tool Supergrip Carbon-Alloy Assembly Compound
Tubolito tubes totally can’t make it …. I changed to normal presta tubes once I collected the T Line from BJS .
Is the Pentaclip.... throw it away! Put back the C line Clip. Sorry simply 💩 clip! Or take back to Brompton n tell them to exchange a C Line clip instead.
the original tyre also 💩! Mainly for the look. Again throw it away!
I hope ur gearing not breaking down either, if not the original external 4 gearing is 💩 too. Throw is way n get the other brand to put on.
👩🏼🦲 I like the gearing and Schwalbe One tires except they seem "fragile" for everyday riding.
@@BromptonFamilyTime Brompton failed on the P Line, yet didn't fix it on the T Line! Maybe by 2023 Brompton will recall all the earlier T lines and fix them for free. Meanwhile, just stay safe friend!
By the way, I've owned both of them and SOLD THEM ASAP!
Now I will wait until further notice! Waiting for T Line, reInvent internal Liteweight hub for 6 speeds, If as! 🤣
Marathon Racer feels faster. Marathon feels more comfortable.
On wet surfaces, due to the tread pattern, Marathon may skid, especially when starting your bike in the rain.
I’ve been using Marathons for 10 years, I’ve never had one skid on wet surfaces. I ride on and off-road and get around 4,500 miles from a pair before the green underlayer starts to show through. I bought a pair of Continental Urban Contact tyres (reflective black wall) in a recent sale at £25 each, but have yet to fit them as my 2nd set of Marathons are still going strong with plenty of tread left.
@@platypushatstand Yes. They're a durable powerhouse, though a bit heavy. I live in Hong Kong, where roads are not in very good in conditions, so that might be be cause😅
Here is a question for the Brompton community , does anyone know where the Titanium is sourced from for the T line ,because if it is Russia I will cancel my order immediateley .
China maybe
you could just tape the tire
I wouldn't tape the side wall on these tires. They are quite thin and would flex under normal use. I don't think the tape would hold well.
Did you know? You can patch your tires from the inside. There is no reason to throw away a $80 tire every time they get puncture.
👩🏼🦲I've never tried it on a small 16' tire. Have you experience patching sidewall holes? It's a pretty thin area.
@@BromptonFamilyTime You could get a perceivable lump. However as you said it's the sidewall so it won't make a big difference while you ride
@@thecoffeeblog I will look into it next time. These tires seem to be easy to damage.