Yihua 852+ Rework Station Unboxing and Testing - Retro Repairs Equipment Unboxing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ม.ค. 2019
- I recently picked up a Yihua 852+ hot air station. This is a fairly cheap 2 in 1 station, but reviews seem to be mostly positive. In this video I unbox it and do some tests, and give my first impressions of this station.
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Thanks for watching - เกม
Please use a bigger nozzle next time. Its really hard to desolder those fine pitch SMD components with a small nozzle!
Greetings from Germany.
Leon.
Yep, I learned that after the first chip. This is my first attempt with hot air, and the second chip came up much easier.
just bought a Yihua 968DA+ and I found your description of the package contents spot on. Thank goodness I watched your video as I would never have worked out what to do with the bits in the box. The "Instruction Manual" is written in pigeon English and does not even mention the loose brackets or how they should be fixed. Fortunately my wife is Chinese and I am better able to decipher what exactly they are trying to say. So thank you most sincerely for your valuable information. I live in North Wales and am just a beginner in this fascinating world of circuit boards and solder.
Please dont pull that chip so hard you gonna rip off your pads, wait until the solder is melted
You should try soldering at about ~330°C max, your tips will last much longer and you should still be able to solder properly. Thanks for the review, I was thinking about getting this one lately.
That's what i was thinking, i work fairly quick and like as small a tip as practical so tend to work hotter and around 360-380c but definitely 400-500 is way over the top IMO and not only wears tips faster but increases the risk of damaging pads/traces as the glue gets burned. I don't currently have a rework gun but I'm given to believe that temps of around 400-450 are ideal there to cope with the losses in the air, and as large a nozzle as safe without risking adjacent components being lost/moved.
Did you get this station?
it detects the temperature and reacts to the change. I know cheap ones have problem with accuracy but it controls the temperature though so called PID loop. The LED you see on the front panel indicates that the controller is doing something to increase the temperature. If off, that means the controller has cut off current to the soldering iron to reduce the temperature. When it comes to tips, you have to tin them first time before using them. Yes cheap chinese tips don't last long in my experience but it all comes with price/performance ratio. Also proper maintenance of the tip is the key to longer life of it.
Looks like a fun new toy! Great vid as always!
Thank you RetroRepairs, much appreciated workstation repair. I've been meaning to purchase one of these, just looking for the proper set-up for what I'd use it for.
Lately I've been crushing Overwatch, but what no-one will tell you that while playing max frags shooters your mouse and keyboard may fall and you'll need to replace them frequently, so I opted for a mouse teardown and replacement switches I found off Ebay for a fraction of the cost of a new trackball mouse. Just need some flux any suggestions?
I'm not sure what you're asking here?
Thanks for this review.
I been looking at these and wasn't sure about the type with the fan in the handle.
I think like this design more better.
Many thanks for the desoldering tips, new to this.
Not bad ! I have never used hot air, so its something new for me here. Thanks for the vid !
Me either. Definitely have to refine my technique, so start on a board that's already broken that you won't be upset if it gets ruined (like this pokemon cart).
oor also thought you should look up a solder sucker, it will save on the wick which is generaly used with problem areas, might save you a bit in the long term
You should use a holder or something to support the pcb in place while you are working on it... You can get one of those octopus holder for 10$ or something... Good video anyways, I needed to watch this soldering station in action!
It measures the temp on the element which is why it doesn't detract a drop in temp.
So, does it take hakko tips? that would be a big upgrade i think
I have a 853d and I ended up getting a kesger t12 solder station and it works way better I hate waiting for the tip to warm up and etc but the hot air
hi dear i use the time from 10:13 until 10:33 and actually 750F i think is around 390Celsius so think the yihua is not so bad in 20sec from 110 to 386 celsius its 10Celsius less but its pretty good or do you mean 750Celsius ? Greetings from germany
thanks! now i know wich buy
tip heat all the chip from the middle and the heat goes out to the pins and i use a scalple at one end it just fits and as you heat all the chip up just lift the scalple .
For hot air i think its best to have a slightly bigger nozzle not too big and about 5 or 6 on the airflow
was thinkin of pickin up one of these..right now im weighin my options between this and a standalone adjustable heatgun with some aftermarket nozzles
I guess it depends if you would need the soldering iron. It's a pretty cheap iron, so if the standalone looks to be a better value, id say go for it.
Thanks all this content. I hope to sit down and watch it all soon and learn stuff. Do you recommend any sodering complete kit. Not for beginners but people who really want to learn and make it hobby to fix games.
I don't have a recommendation for a good 2 in 1 if that's what you're looking for. For an Iron, I have a Hakko fx-888d which is Hakko's entry line, but it's pretty good. Doesn't have a ton of features, but I can't say anything bad about it. Good build quality and good results. This is my first hot air station, so I don't really have any comment about better ones or how they compare.
@@RetroRepairs thank you
@@Jonnynot1plate I use the aoyue 2703+ 3 in 1 desolder, hot air, solder station
Rosin core flux is NOT corrosive...!
And you should use acetone to clean up after soldering, alcohol doesn't pick up flux residue well.
You need a larger air tip when heating up a larger IC ,thin tip is for small smds.
I think he's referring to the Flux pens, which tend to ruin pads if left on there for a long period of time. Flux paste doesn't seem to hurt anything besides looking dirty.
Hi my hot air gun overheats i checked triac 1 was shorted buts its for air pump. After reading up i changed lm358 n moc 3041 (as i read shorted phototriac causes full power) n its still over heats. I even bought new hot air gun bcos old one internal glass holder broke n its still over heat. Its a 852d+
Can u advice?
Good video, I think you need better tweezers and a solder sucker if you are going to desolder through hole components.
Watch the flashing led and you'll notice it stops flashing as you're forcing it to cool down. That's the unit putting more amps into the tip to prevent heat loss. If you're going to criticise be sure what you're criticism is based off. A flashing led means temp maintenance a solid led means increased amperage.
Not really a name brand, but Yihua are making a name for themselves i think... I know they unashamedly rip-off Hakko kit but they're doing a good enough job that other Chinese companies are actually ripping them off now too! I have a "Hulko" 936D soldering station and it's been really good. Only issue I've run into is that they've wired the handle a bit differently to Yihua so replacements don't plug & play (the temperature doesn't register and just stays energised)
The artzoska wants you on the frontier
Donated ya $5.00. But you must use it for a beer buddy. :) Thanks for making videos. I love them all.
Thank you very much. Will do!
Will this work with 110v?
Hey, the machine still working? should i buy it?
Love hakko.
How do you forget it was a two for one system you ordered?
What consoles can this help repair with? Like can it fix ylod,rrod,etc
It can help, but it's not suitable for a permanent fix. Ylod/rrod really needs a new apu, or a reball at minimum, which requires some additional gear. This could reflow it for a temp fix.
The light indicates it is heating. When you cool it off, it heats. 500 degrees? Maybe, maybe not. But I think it's being honest. I doubt the measurement is taken at the tip.
I have this rework station and i can't say bad word about it, for this price is very good. One thing thats broke is a soldering gun, this plastic around the nozzle cracked.
Are you talking about the Soldering Iron, or the hot air gun? Both feel pretty cheap, and the nozzle on the hot air actually wiggles a bit when trying to change the tips. I'll probably stick with my hakko for an iron, and use this only for hot air.
@@RetroRepairs Sorry i was talking about te soldering gun. That plastic just break apart and now i must looking for new soldering gun witch have more flexible cord, becouse this original is very stiff just like you says
yeah, that's a huge pain to deal with. I had to pin it to the edge of my desk with my body so the cord didn't keep popping up and getting in the way. You don't think of things like that when looking for a soldering iron, but it's important.
I've seen replacement irons on ebay for this machine, but again, who knows what kind of quality you get. I might try and find whatever original hardware this manufacturer copied, and try one of their irons. I bet it's some type of older Hakko unit.
I honestly can recommend a Hakko FX-888. I got mine for under $100, and it's a very good soldering station for the price. Definitely worth it in my opinion, and the difference in build quality is crazy.
It seems like you really need something to hold down projects for that thing.
Yep. That's the next purchase for sure
anyone else notice the PCB from a atari 7800 rf module at the end?
Oooh man!! for 65 bucks I love this so called knockoff, it does the job, greetings from Venezuela!!
Definitely. They're making such a name for themselves with their Hakko knock offs now that other Chinese companies are starting to copy Yihua's products! (It's a lottery if the quality is any good with them though, as far as I'm concerned Yihua and Hulko/Huykko are trusted "brands")
that the same one i use in work they not very good the soldering iron clip around the bit you tighten up has melted so we have to send it back
That's terrible. If it's for a professional shop, I'd suggest investing in at least an entry level Hakko or comparable. About $100 for the soldering station, but much more reliable and easier to use.
It might appear the same, but was it branded Yihua (or Hulko/Huyko)? All chinese clones are not equal, but the ones i mentioned I've found to be some of the best. You might find another for 10% less but it's not worth the saving if you can get "genuine" Yihua. It's actually used in Chinese factories so that says something.
The nozzle was too small and you didn't add flux to spread the heat. The equipment may be ok for the price but your technique made the chip pull harder than it had to be.
Dude remember that the hakko it uses f and the black station uses C
I wanna get one of those blue mats what are they called?
Just look up heat resistant work mat in amazon, that's where i got this one
Not bad for that money, hope it wil last :-)
You dont need to heat tin up to 500°C... tin melting point is 232°C 350°C is a top what you need. Later on you burning Flux and there is a chance of damaging components
You would be wise to invest a few dollars to get a PC board vise that fastens to your work bench and a set of IC chip lifters as tweezers are not the best to lift them with.
Agreed. I've been looking into a panavise, there are a couple that would make this work much easier
👍for the station and 🖓to the working in pcb....
Hey this might be odd but if you could send me images of the boards that have the chips removed. It would be appreciated. I'm working on building a schematics repository for retro games and consoles to help with repair etc. PM me if your interested.
Hey, i can help you out. Can you email me at retrorepairsca@gmail.com. I'll work with you on this, i think it will be a very handy resource to have
Stop saying it is cheap cuz that is where it really stands out and it is perfect in that "cheap" category. Of course it will not compare to quality equipment cuz that is exactly what it is.Am sure they will outsell those quality brands and make more money. Bec even the pros will buy the cheap ones.
Are you actually a professional? Your temperatures are way too high on both tools. Also, where's your fume extractor, or are you going for the Darth Sidious look?
I wouldn't let a boy fix your ax!
Brah.... Precoat w/Flux, Helps even out the temp and then go buy a Panavise....
Tem duas coisas que peguei nojo por causa desse TH-cam. Ifood e Amazon kkkk
Hi just to let you know there is an 'L' in soLder.😁😝🤑
There's also an L in walk and talk. Thanks
@@RetroRepairs great response lol
YOUR CUTTING DOWN TO MUCH>>>>>>>> GONE.
I will never buy a product from a Chinese brand pronounced "yee-haw".