DE-SOLDERING made VERY EASY - YIHUA 948 Unboxing and testing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- The YIHUA 948 is my first de-soldering gun. I've wanted one for ages so finally got one.
I unbox it and give it a try, testing it out on an old spares PCB, Having never used one before, you can see what it's like from a new users perspective,
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I bought one Yihua 948 3 years ago, I use it each day, saturday and sunday inclusive..
I change one gun and 4 tips only in this time.
For the price is a very good option.
Many years ago I bought 2 Hakko's, one 808 and one FR301, both Hakko's are much better but cost 3 times more and the spare parts are expensive, Hakko's heat up a lot of more, for some parts I use it.
I bought one ZD-915 inclusive, ZD works very well for me.
If you are in budget Yihua 948 is a very good option, if you have more money go for the Hakko.
Thanks for sharing that. This is the only one I've owned so your experiences are appreciated.
Aoyue desoldering guns Include a similar color indicator to remind you to clean the chamber and filter, or the nozzle, when the gun is partially or fully clogged and airflow is being restricted; it reminds me of my Sebo vacuum cleaner that has a similar indicator for when the filter bag is nearly full.
@@goodun2974 the indicator has always worked well. Although once you've got used to using it, you can notice the performance drop off anyway, but still a good thing to have IMHO
@@RetroComputingReboot , It's a feature more useful to newbies who don't necessarily know the difference until they've had some experience working with a desoldering station. Or perhaps they might be like my wife, who never changes the vacuum cleaner filter bag, *never*, and the visual indicator be damned.....
@@goodun2974 I use a bagless vacuum 😂
@@RetroComputingReboot Bagless vacuums are a terrible idea because the motors are air-cooled and a bagless vac doesn't filter out enough of the fine particles to prevent damage and wear to the motor, not to mention that those fine particles pass right through the vacuum and back out into the air so that your lungs can filter them. The shipping container used as a walk-in e-waste dumpster at my local dump/"transfer station" is typically filled with a dozen or so vacs at any given time (as well as flat-screen tv's and literally tons of e-waste; there's a horrifying video of it on my channel) and virtually all of them are bagless, even including the occasional expensive Dyson vacuum cleaner, which is a testament to the poor design and cheesy build of bagless vacuums. It's a con! Bagless vacs only look as if they're doing a great job because the see-through canister looks full, but when you take that fluffed up, cotton-candy like material and squeeze it in your hand you end up with something the size of a golf ball or a tennis ball at most.
I use a German Sebo vacuum cleaner with a filter bag that lasts about a month, and when I change it out, it's stuffed like a sausage and has weight to it. We have 3 large dogs (see video on my channel) and vacuum nearly every day, yet the vacuum cleaner is still working great 7 years later and has never required service other than one replaced roller and a monthly changing of the bag.
once you've used these bits of kit for a while, i would enjoy hearing your thoughts about them. basically a "road tested review" of the gear.
i think the trouble with Sinclair boards might be a cheaper board where the copper cladding isn't bonded as well to the fiberglass substrate. knowing that Sinclair computers was all about LOW PRICE, it wouldn't surprise me. perhaps you could think of desoldering components on a Sinclair board to be the equivalent of a video game's "boss battle".
If the metal tube gets clogged with solder right where it enters the solder collection chamber, just put the tip of the regular soldering iron to it for a few seconds while the desoldering gun is still heated up; give the gun a light rap against the bench and the molten solder will come falling or flying out of the metal tube. As for the spring thing, just forget about it. It's a lousy idea. Substitute a wad of steel wool and you'll be much happier!
@@goodun2974 I have plenty of steel wool. I'll be giving that a try. I hate cleaning the spring. I always end up burning my fingers 😂
@@RetroComputingReboot , medium grade, not too fine, works best. I actually went one step further and cut the tapered end off of the spring to make it into a straight sided cylinder and I put the steel wall loosely inside the spring, with a little more steel wool behind it at the back end of the tube where the filter is, so that the spring sits forward and nearly even with the front end of the tube, right up near where the nozzle enters the chamber; virtually all of the molten solder collects on the steel wool that's now inside the modified, cylindrical , straight sided spring. No need for the spring to be friction fit onto the front rubber gasket and so you can even shorten the flange on the gasket with a sharp razor knife if you like. This makes it easier to remove the entire tube.
and you're rocking that t-shirt. i need to get one, too.
😂😂😂
I've got the same one. Been using it for over a year now and have been very happy with it. To be fair, I've never used any other desoldering gun, so I can't make any comparisons. BTW: I never figured out the rubber thing, either. Personally, I like to go for higher temperature and shorter dwell time. That seems to work best for me. I also give the tip a little wiggle as I actuate the pump to help get the solder out from around all sides of the pin. But you'll find the method that works best for you. We each have our own preferences. Once you've desoldered all the pins with the gun, you can give each pin a little push to pop it loose from the via. I use the notch on the tip of my chip lifter for that. You could also use tweezers. Hot air is also an excellent idea to keep from pulling up pads or traces while you're prying the chip out. Be careful when desoldering connectors or anything else that's plastic. The gun has a VERY high thermal mass and you can easily melt things unintentionally. Not good if you're trying to reuse the part. I've slaughtered many a single or dual wipe socket that way. That blob that got stuck in the spring, I just use mechanical flexing of the spring and it usually breaks loose eventually. Have fun with the new toy!
Thanks for the comment. I really appreciate that.
I sussed out the rubber thingy. It goes under the gun holder. The square bit goes at the sponge end and the arrow pokes through the slot at the other end. It just stops the holder sliding around. Well, that's what I think it's for anyway.
I'm just really impressed with it. I've found working on Spectrums infuriating. Some boards seem to be fine but others are absolute hell. Even when I've got components out, the holes just refuse to clear. My manual solder suckers just won't clear them, even with extra solder on.
I've had a couple of Spectrum videos I've just put off doing because I know what a swine they have been. I'm now looking forward to doing them.
I like the idea of running it a bit hotter but for less time. I'm going to have to experiment with that. I need to practice on some plastic stuff as I too have melted stuff in the past 😢
@@RetroComputingReboot The square pad is (or should be) made of silicon and used for allowing the removal of the gun nozzle while it is still hot. It is basically used as a kitchen 'pot - holder'. You are expected to fasten to the the gun cable using the 1/2" strap and looping it back through the hole in the strap.
@@johncarson2877 John, that is brilliant! I would never have thought of that. I'd convinced myself it was an anti slip mat for underneath the gun stand. Thanks so much for sharing 😁
I use the wiggle method myself, moving the gun's tip in a circular motion as I desolder until the pin comes freely away from the thru-hole plating.
Hi, I been using this desoldering for 3 years, I have two Hakko's inclusive.
Hakko's do not use the springs inside the filter chamber, I remove the spring and the desolder works much better.
Best Regards.
Excellent addition to your tool set. I have a similar one. I set mine to 350C as you dont want to put too much heat than needed. Anyway, I'm sure you will enjoy it and happy reapirs!
Thanks for the comment Rudy. I'm certain it will be a big help. The amount of time I have lost to lifted traces and fixing damaged via's alone will make this worthwhile!
@@RetroComputingReboot, As a full-time audio repair technician I nearly always set the Hakko or Aoyue desoldering gun to 380°C, which was my "Goldilocks" temperature setting for doing what I had to do and getting in and out of there *fast* so as not to damage or delaminate any foils. On rare occasion I might bump it up to 400 or 410, perhaps for large ground planes or a bug blob of leadfree solder, but In such instances it was often more effective to use a soldering iron wand simultaneously in conjunction with the desoldering gun to add a little extra thermal mass to the connection being desoldered. It's also worth noting that running the desoldering gun too cool may contribute to clogging.
@goodun2974 I've used mine at 440 so probably too hot then? I worked on the logic of getting heat in quickly and removing it quickly
@@RetroComputingReboot , While getting in and out fast is a good idea, excessive temperature also leads to quick oxidation of the tip, which means that your heat transfer is poor, and the tips don't last as long at higher temps. 440C seems way way too hot, unless the heating element/temperature-sensing thermocouple is defective or the calibration of the system is incorrect. Try measuring the temperature of the tip when the gun is set to 440. I suspect that using a better quality tip made of plated copper will be helpful. If you buy a second Yihua gun You could plug that one in and compare it to the first, original gun to see if performance of the heating element is different. It's good to have a second, spare gun ready to go, perhaps set up with a different size tip in case you change the type of desoldering operation in the middle of a project ---- or simply to effect a quick swap out if the gun you're using gets clogged and you don't want to deal with unclogging it in the middle of a firefight with a circuit board! Aoyue guns cost $55 US and a replacement heating element ( kind of a pain to change) is about $10. What do replacement YIhua parts costs? ( I have been debating buying a desoldering station for home use and the choice would be between Aoyue and Yihua, but Aoyue has an advantage in that the US distributor is only one state over from me, a couple-three hours drive away, while I haven't found any authorized Yihua distributors in the US and I really don't like buying things direct from China through faceless eBay or Amazon sellers).
I just got the same one, although it's branded "W.E.P 948". Looks exactly the same inside and out. Looking forward to trying it out.
Thanks for the comment 😊. I can honestly say I've found it to be brilliant. A complete game changer from.the manual pumps.
I found that after a lot of use the tip was starting.to wear and not transfering the heat as well, so new tip and it's right back on it. Treat the tip just like a soldering iron. Clean and tin it before putting it away
@@RetroComputingReboot While I do have average soldering skills, my desoldering is never pretty. I too work on old machines, which occasionally need an IC replaced, so this will come in very handy :-) Thank you for the advice 🙂
@@RetroComputingReboot, Try replacing the included Yihua tip with one made by Hakko or another brand name (and purchase it from a source that won't sell you counterfeit tips). Most of the tips coming directly from China or Asia are made of iron or steel, not copper, and they don't have good thermal transfer characteristics nor do they hold up well under the corrosive dissolving effects of bolt and solder and flux.
@goodun2974 I'll have to try that too. I'm on my second tip now. I typically use it once or twice a week for a few minutes at a time, so not heavy use by any means
@@RetroComputingReboot , You can easily determine by use of a magnet whether the tip is made primarily of copper and plated with iron only at the pointy end or if it is made of iron or steel throughout. (Because I used an Aoyue desoldering station at work I can tell you from experience that the Aoyue desoldering tips were made of plated copper but with a stainless steel tube running through them; stainless steel isn't strongly magnetic and isn't easily dissolved by molten solder and flux, giving the tips a long life; however, the Aoyue desoldering tips are unique,, not interchangeable with others. The Aoyue desoldering iron, on the other hand,, came with iron or steel tips, not plated copper tips, and therefore the performance was improved if you used higher quality, brand name, base-copper 900 M or T18 tips).
19:11 using the hot air was a good idea. however, i think you may want to try using the hot air on the underside of the board to reduce the chances of thermal damage to the IC. granted, i may just be paranoid.
I was thinking that myself retrospectively. I think the chip held firm as I'd forgot to desolder a diode connected on the topside to one of the legs, which you can see on the closeup of the topside once the IC is removed.
I think it makes sense to reduce/eliminate unnecessary risk so I'd have to agree. Heating from the underside has to be a better option unless there is really good reason not to.
The airpump seems to work more strongly for a couple of seconds and then the noise level goes down (followed by a whippoorwill-like birdcall sound a second or two after the gun stops). Does the suction actually decrease after a couple of seconds or is your audio-recording setup compressing and lmiting the volume after a couple seconds? The Hakko and Aoyue machines do not sound like this....
@@goodun2974 it's an effect due to the noise cancelling on my mic. Sorry I should have mentioned that in the video. The pump keeps going at full power for as long as the trigger is pulled
Just bought a desoldering station from Amazon & it came with 3 nibs, but during manufacturing, they neglected to drill holes in them, so I'm left with something I cannot use all because of solid nibs instead of holed nibs, I'm pissed!
It’s just solder. It will melt when you turn it on, it’s so the tips don’t oxidize. At the end of every desoldering you should add solder to the tip and close the hole again by letting it cool on the tip so the tips don’t oxidize otherwise they will fuse to the gun and you won’t be able to change the tip anymore.
@@Blu3ManiC I figured that out, but messing around soldering up the tip every time I finish using it, is a hassle. Wouldn't it be more convenient to just heat up the tip & apply some flux?
Thanks for replying 🙂
@paranoidgenius9164 The tin coating in the nozzle tips will oxidize faster if you don't clog the tip before cooling. It will eventually wear down and fuse to the heating element, but I guess it doesn't matter since new tips are $25 a pack and a new suction gun replacement is $28
@@Blu3ManiC, High quality soldering and desoldering tips aren't merely "coated" with tin to protect them, they are/should be plated with iron at the pointy business because iron will "wet" to solder but will resist the corrosive dissolving effects of molten solder and flux. The base metal of the tips underneath the iron plating are supposed to be copper but most cheap bulk pack tips purchased directly from China or Asia are made entirely of iron or steel which has very poor heat transfer characteristics. Buy some real Hakko or Weller or whatever brand of tip will fit your cloned desoldering station and you'll find that they work better (faster heat transfer) and last longer. The internet is awash with counterfeit or poorly manufactured tips so you're best off to buy them from an electronics specialty distributor and authorized dealer in the country where you live. Buying direct from China or Asia through Amazon fleabay bangood etc will net you garbage accessories.
mine heater is busted in 2 months of use,, i have to order 10 pcs is always burnt if you drop it or a hard bump,,, heater burnt easy
I've not had an issue with mine. I'm still on the first heater
I bought this exact same desoldering gun. I was very glad to watch you disassemble the gun and clean it so that I know how to do mine because I use it for the first time today.
However, I do have one question.
I looked at the tips for my soldering gun, and I feel like only one of them actually has a hole. The rest of them look like they’re covered up. is that just different size holes and I can’t see the hole?
Hi, thanks for watching and commenting. I'm glad you found it useful.
In terms of the nozzles, don't worry, that's how they come. They just have solder on the tips to protect the end from corroding. Once the tip is on the gun and it's heated up fully, as soon as you pull the trigger, it will clear the nozzle.
It's a good tip when you've finished desoldering, to just put another blob of solder over the hole before you turn it off
I forgot to say, each nozzle should be marked on the side with its hole size in mm. Always use the smallest nozzle you can for the job you are doing. It will make a better seal and clear the hole better. Don't just go with the largest to make life easier 😁
@@RetroComputingReboot excellent advice! I am a noob when it comes to anything that involves these type of tools. But I am learning!
Thank you so much!
@djlancematthew We are all noobs to begin with 😊
@@RetroComputingReboot, Some desoldering tips arrive without a stamped or engraved marking on the side of the tip to indicate the hole diameter, and the only size reference may be marked on the individual baggie that the tip comes in (I'm looking at, you, Aoyue and wagging my finger!😖). Once the tip has been used and starts to enlarge a bit from the dissolving effect of molten solder and flux, it is difficult to tell what size it was or is supposed to be, and so I always engrave the tip size on the side of the tip before putting them into use. A battery powered engraver with diamond tip costs about $8 at harbor freight or you can use a Dremel tool which most of us probably own already.
Could you please share the measurements of the glass tube 🙏
Hi Lee, thanks for watching and commenting.
The diameter is 21mm and the length is 47mm as best as I can with a ruler (sorry, I don't have calipers for a better measure). I hope that helps
Your an absolute Gentleman 👍🏻
What made you go for the yihua? instead of the good old ZD-915. it looks to be exactly the same just with a different styling and higher price.
Good question. I did consider it, and there's certainly a similarity between them but ultimately having already had some stuff from Yihua and been really happy, I thought it safer to stay with Yihua. Plus imho I think they look nicer too
@@RetroComputingReboot I think it is i nicer looking station for sure. I think it is little bigger than it really needs to be though, eating up precious bench space.
I agree there and with so much 'clutter' on my desk I should perhaps be more careful 😂
funfact: is calld delaval nozle
Oooh thanks for that. I just googled it. Every day is a school day as they say 😊
Great content. Subscribed. If you ever have any questions about microsoldering give me a shout!!!
Thanks for the comment Daniel, you're very kind. I'm glad you enjoyed it
If you still have the beeb, type this in ?fe40=0 If it works, you will have s instant piano where every key will play a different note...
Hi Cornz38. Doesn't work for me. I get a 'No such variable' 😢
?&fe40=0 Sorry, forgot the &@@RetroComputingReboot