I had hard time to remove the whole unit from the center joint. you are the only one explained well to hammer out with a strew driver. so I will give it a try with confidence.
Thanks, this helped a lot. What you don't mention was, you really will need to remove the brake caliper and rotor when you put in the new CV axle. It is a real PITA to get the splines thru the hub. You will need a large rubber hammer and a large can of elbow grease to get it on enough to get the 36mm nut on, then tighten that sucker.....
Thanks Nathan, great video and also if you can show us the installation process, I know it should follow the same order in reverse but just in case there're any need-to-know for the installation.
About the same for the x3. I had a helluva time getting the second drive shaft free of the hub. the first came off with a 2.5 lb mini sledge. the second one took several minutes pounding with the full sledge hammer with someone holding a 1 in drift bar with channel locks against the end of the drive shaft. the drift got seriously mushroomed in the process - gives you some idea of the force needed (this is a california car so there isnt much corrosion) would've been easier if the joint was greased . tried PB blaster, heat, etc, only the sledge finally got it to move. I have heard that a pneumatic hammer/chisel can be used. will try that next time.
Thanks Nathan! Replaced the driver side last year (E53 3.0D) and now the passenger side is to be replaced due to a cracked boot. As I don't know how long I've been driving with a cracked boot I prefer to change the complete output shaft. It's only $60 anyway here in Europe (eBay Germany).
I removed my passenger front side axle in order to get the lower ball joint out on my X5 e53 (Pennsylvania car...the ball joint would not come out by simply removing the torx bolts. Had to wail on the top of it it with a hammer but first had to remove axle to remove knuckle to get to the top of the ball joint.) Doing reassembly now and the original axle nut will not thread back onto the axle easily. Is a new axle nut required or is using the old one acceptable? Thanks in advance for any help.
Great job! Love the video. I have the same car and am experiencing a lot of vibration at idle when the car is in drive and foot on the break. Was thinking about doing a front right axle change, read on one of the forums that it would help. Did you notice a smoother idle at stop lights and such after you changed out the axle? Thanks for the insight!
Do you know if there is a universal axle on the e53 x5 n62. Can I use another axle from another BMW. Such as x3. 5 series. 7 series. Etc... Or is the axle specific to the model. I know BMW borrows parts from other models.
Are the left and right CV Joints the same part?...having a hard time finding replacements my vehicle is all wheel drive and when I look on line ones long and ones shor for front....
Great Video! Please keep em coming. I have a 330xi and I will be attempting a DIY axle shaft replacement soon. Question: EMPI and a few other axle shaft assemblies are only 70 bucks, versus the DKN OEM for 300 bucks......have you seen a decent success rate with the less expensive (EMPI and the others)? I.e. will I be (a lot) better off with the OEM in your opinion, enough to justify the added expense? Thanks for any input.
I have an E39 2002 model 530 diesel automatic car with the M57 engine (CA980-40). I changed the front suspension shock absorbers with MEYLE, engine mounts with BMW Genuine, control arms MEYLE again. I had the oil change 3.000 miles ago and also did the transmission fluid change at 60K. The car is currently at 65K miles. I am the 2nd owner of the car. Overall it is a great car but I think I have some problems with it. An old guy used to own the car. He died, and I bought the car from his sons. I have no information regarding the service history of the car and how it has been used. But all the mechanics I have taken it to have said that it has been taken care of and there are no leaks and so on. I have been having a wobbly/ like a fud noise coming from the front of the car, under my legs where the gas pedal is. Or maybe the wobbly noise is coming from the transmission but I feel that it is coming from the engine compartment. This noise takes place when the transmission shifts gears from 1 to 2 and vice versa. The acceleration is fine. The engine sounds smooth and there are no problems with it. But there is a big “once jump”, “a noticeable wobble sound” when the car shifts from 1 to 2 or from 2 to 1 speed. This is especially more noticeable when the car has not reached its operating temperature. After 10 minutes of driving, some (most part) of this noise disappears. This vibration has gotten worse, not by much, but it has. My main problem is I feel vibration under my feet where the gas pedal is - when I touch it, it gives me that feeling. I feel it more when I push it and let it go. I had a mechanic check. He says that it is not the transmission problem or its mounts but rather the rear axle. He drove it and also checked it and showed it to me. There is a little play at the long shaft that is connected to the transmission. It is not the part that connects to the transmission directly (where the guibo is) but rather at the back place where the transaxle is. If that is the case I really do not know what do since it costs around 1000 euros of BMW genuine. I have seen a video related to rear axles and the guy says these usually wear out after 100K or even at 200K miles. I really couldn't understand why mine went at 65K miles. Again, if that is the problem. The mechanic is sure that is the problem. He says that if it had been the transmission mounts, the car would vibrate a lot even at stand still, I am not sure if that's correct.
+Turhan Uludağ There are 4 options, 1 is the small transmission mounts,2 is the drive shaft carrier bearing 3 is the guibo bushing where the trans bolts to the drive shaft and 4 is the rear subframe mounts are bad but that is the least likely
I had hard time to remove the whole unit from the center joint. you are the only one explained well to hammer out with a strew driver. so I will give it a try with confidence.
Thanks for the axle nut removal. I'm replacing my control arm and having a hard time with the axle nut. Watch your video and going to try again. thx
Thanks, this helped a lot. What you don't mention was, you really will need to remove the brake caliper and rotor when you put in the new CV axle. It is a real PITA to get the splines thru the hub. You will need a large rubber hammer and a large can of elbow grease to get it on enough to get the 36mm nut on, then tighten that sucker.....
+OverWatchGaming For sure its a job that take some work to get it to slip in there
SAFETY FIRST. JACK STANDS PEOPLE!!!
Oh the stress on that poor brake hose.
Nice detailed explanation.
Thanks Nathan, great video and also if you can show us the installation process, I know it should follow the same order in reverse but just in case there're any need-to-know for the installation.
i see you did this two different ways ? this way and on a newer video you pulled the tie rod and the lower control arms what was easier?
about to do mine on my x5,,.. thank u for this video.
Thx for this video help me a lot for my X5
Did you use a jack stand? I only saw the jack. Thanks for the post, going out in the driveway to remove mine now.
Great! I got to do this tomorrow but Driver side.
About the same for the x3. I had a helluva time getting the second drive shaft free of the hub. the first came off with a 2.5 lb mini sledge. the second one took several minutes pounding with the full sledge hammer with someone holding a 1 in drift bar with channel locks against the end of the drive shaft. the drift got seriously mushroomed in the process - gives you some idea of the force needed (this is a california car so there isnt much corrosion) would've been easier if the joint was greased . tried PB blaster, heat, etc, only the sledge finally got it to move. I have heard that a pneumatic hammer/chisel can be used. will try that next time.
What size driveshaft socket? 36mm? Thanks
Good day my man i just wanna know how to remove it from the front diff
Nice video angles. Keep up the good work
does this make the x5 a driveable RWD?
Thanks Nathan!
Replaced the driver side last year (E53 3.0D) and now the passenger side is to be replaced due to a cracked boot.
As I don't know how long I've been driving with a cracked boot I prefer to change the complete output shaft.
It's only $60 anyway here in Europe (eBay Germany).
+747freightdog Im happy the video helped you, also dont forget to check out my oil catch can videos for that 3.0
Nice clear demo mate cheers 👍
I removed my passenger front side axle in order to get the lower ball joint out on my X5 e53 (Pennsylvania car...the ball joint would not come out by simply removing the torx bolts. Had to wail on the top of it it with a hammer but first had to remove axle to remove knuckle to get to the top of the ball joint.) Doing reassembly now and the original axle nut will not thread back onto the axle easily. Is a new axle nut required or is using the old one acceptable? Thanks in advance for any help.
Great job! Love the video. I have the same car and am experiencing a lot of vibration at idle when the car is in drive and foot on the break. Was thinking about doing a front right axle change, read on one of the forums that it would help. Did you notice a smoother idle at stop lights and such after you changed out the axle?
Thanks for the insight!
Did you end up doing this? I have the same question about smoother idle.
Never go underneath if there’s no jack stand
Do you know if there is a universal axle on the e53 x5 n62. Can I use another axle from another BMW. Such as x3. 5 series. 7 series. Etc... Or is the axle specific to the model. I know BMW borrows parts from other models.
Why does that circle rust looks like a brake disc rotor?
You are a life saver
Thanks for this even 8 years later… 🤟🏼
Are the left and right CV Joints the same part?...having a hard time finding replacements my vehicle is all wheel drive and when I look on line ones long and ones shor for front....
The right side is longer. The left side is shorter.
precise and to the point, well done.
Great Video! Please keep em coming. I have a 330xi and I will be attempting a DIY axle shaft replacement soon.
Question: EMPI and a few other axle shaft assemblies are only 70 bucks, versus the DKN OEM for 300 bucks......have you seen a decent success rate with the less expensive (EMPI and the others)? I.e. will I be (a lot) better off with the OEM in your opinion, enough to justify the added expense? Thanks for any input.
+Stuart Jameson I personally have never had a bad shaft, unless the boot gets ripped, i would say the cheaper ones will be fine
Thanks!
I have an E39 2002 model 530 diesel automatic car with the M57 engine (CA980-40). I changed the front suspension shock absorbers with MEYLE, engine mounts with BMW Genuine, control arms MEYLE again.
I had the oil change 3.000 miles ago and also did the transmission fluid change at 60K. The car is currently at 65K miles. I am the 2nd owner of the car. Overall it is a great car but I think I have some problems with it. An old guy used to own the car. He died, and I bought the car from his sons. I have no information regarding the service history of the car and how it has been used. But all the mechanics I have taken it to have said that it has been taken care of and there are no leaks and so on.
I have been having a wobbly/ like a fud noise coming from the front of the car, under my legs where the gas pedal is. Or maybe the wobbly noise is coming from the transmission but I feel that it is coming from the engine compartment. This noise takes place when the transmission shifts gears from 1 to 2 and vice versa. The acceleration is fine. The engine sounds smooth and there are no problems with it. But there is a big “once jump”, “a noticeable wobble sound” when the car shifts from 1 to 2 or from 2 to 1 speed. This is especially more noticeable when the car has not reached its operating temperature. After 10 minutes of driving, some (most part) of this noise disappears.
This vibration has gotten worse, not by much, but it has. My main problem is I feel vibration under my feet where the gas pedal is - when I touch it, it gives me that feeling. I feel it more when I push it and let it go.
I had a mechanic check. He says that it is not the transmission problem or its mounts but rather the rear axle. He drove it and also checked it and showed it to me. There is a little play at the long shaft that is connected to the transmission. It is not the part that connects to the transmission directly (where the guibo is) but rather at the back place where the transaxle is. If that is the case I really do not know what do since it costs around 1000 euros of BMW genuine. I have seen a video related to rear axles and the guy says these usually wear out after 100K or even at 200K miles. I really couldn't understand why mine went at 65K miles. Again, if that is the problem. The mechanic is sure that is the problem. He says that if it had been the transmission mounts, the car would vibrate a lot even at stand still, I am not sure if that's correct.
+Turhan Uludağ There are 4 options, 1 is the small transmission mounts,2 is the drive shaft carrier bearing 3 is the guibo bushing where the trans bolts to the drive shaft and 4 is the rear subframe mounts are bad but that is the least likely
the boot is torn on the driver side of my x5 cv axel and I'm experiencing a shuttering at low speeds and turning the x5 . the cv axel to blame? thanks
You probably figured this out, but most likely yes.
is it the same for the x3 the shaft looks the same
what size is the socket for c.v nut
I think it is 36mm 12 thingy. correct me if iam wrong.
Dude u the man bro
Excelent, Brazilian seeing you
hey Nathan. could you do a video on a e39 intake or valley pan? you do an awesome job.
+frank aranda Hello i plan to do alot of 4.4l videos coming up this week and next week, check back for the valley pan video.
Should I drain oil Before removing axels?
no the fluid will not leak out
I need to do this sooner than later. This one I have is such a piece of shit, but with low miles 👎
Eselente
thanks
Tools:
Impact driver
36mm 12-point socket (axle nut)
18mm socket (sway bar link)
22mm socket (strut)
7.v
Wtf you not showing noting when you pull out