Great video and welcome back. I like these displays for the reasons you stated. I wish I could figure out how to graph a data point on it. I've seen it done in one video, but no explanation of how.
Hmm, could be the subject of a future video now we have the basics out of the way. Simple graphics or graphs. It's pretty easy to address any point on the display, especially when using a library to take away all the intricacies. Thanks for the (implied) suggestion :)
Most IC's have clamping diodes (inherent due to the manufacturing process) so it's usually enough to only hook up resistors in series and let them do the rest. Many times you can find specification about their maximum clamping current in the ds so it's rather easy to find a suitable value :)
Yes, there's been some discussion about level shifting Christiaan, with many saying what you say. Others insist the proper way to do it is with a potential divider (so two resistors), and yet others only use a level shifter like the one I demo here. Who's right? The simple answer is that everyone is! If it works (and works reliably) then it's the solution for you. Great info you give there about the maximum clamping current figure to be found in the datasheet - something I'll be looking for next time I level shift. Thanks for posting.
These displays are not TFTs, they are LCDs... I have never had any problems connecting the data lines directly to 5v but this may of course vary from display to display. I have only tested with about 20 of them.I have also written a couple of libraries (one basic/text and one for gfx) for them which are available on my website.
Usually I give less voltage to the screen backlight if possible. For example I have a ST7920 5V screen, and I give only 3.3V to the backlight. Still clearly visible, but longer lifetime for the backlight. The becames black MAYBE because you should adjust the contrast if the voltage goes higher. I have a ESP8266 + ST7920 clock, if a change power supply, or use/not use breadboard I have to adjust the contrast. It makes max 0.5V difference. Btw there is a lot of circuit that 5V tolerant. Like I have a STM32... checked the datasheet, lot of pins are marked it can handle 5V level signals. The power input still have to be 3.3V. Another tip: if you need 3.3V, use an uno to power an other uno from the firsts 3.3V output. The uno works fine with 3.3V, and now you can power anything w/o level converters. Good for testing!
Yes. Unfortunately I haven't got one, and the shipping is slow. So if you aren't in a hurry, go for it. But I wanted to test an item, so it is a perfect solution for me.
Ah yes, the UNO/Nano will (not officially) run all the way down to 2.7 volts apparently, but you would be outside of the spec sheet's tolerances. But a GREAT way to test out screens (or other devices) that are (allegedly) not 5v tolerant. Good tip about the contrast too. Unfortunately I don't want to burn out my screen like others do in their TH-cam channels as my funds are very limited! But I might experiment a bit further with voltage just to see how it copes...
Hi Ralph! Just checked the Atmel 328P datasheet, from 2.7V max 10MHz is in spec. For 10-20MHz you need 4.5+. The 328p can go as low as 1.8V up to 4MHz, up to 5.5V and 20MHz. There is RTC support in the arduino. You only need a 32KHz quartz, wich costs nearly nothing. Like 100PCS for 2.5GBP. And the datasheet says something very low power consumption. After my exam season I'll investigate this myselft, but notify you just in case you are interested in it. There are some downsides too, no battery backup, and probably more drift compared to a thermally controlled DS3231. AND EVEN MORE INTERESTING: 8bit MCU Dev board $1 (or less) delivered! STM8, you maybe need an ST-Link, and there is somekind of Arduino SDK for it named "sduino" on github.
You're not the first person on this channel to mention the STM8; the trouble is, there is too much hardware out there for me to investigate! But it's interesting about the frequency vs voltage on the Atmel 328P. I have had a standard 16Mhz Nano run at 2.7 volts (from a decaying 18650 battery) but that is (according to you and the datasheet) just sheer blind luck and not within spec. Hmm, I'll read up a bit more about voltages tonight, thanks for the info, very useful.
Guess I am lucky. I built a digital thermometer six years ago using one of these and a NANO. I hooked it up using a 9 volt battery run through the NANO and it's been working 24/7 since the day I finished the build. Perhaps I got a good one.
A good 9v battery do you mean? Six years on one battery? Wow! Or did you mean that you have had to change the battery but the device has been working 24/7 since the day you installed it?
Hi Ralph, Newbie to Arduino, but not to coding and some basic electronics,(at rapidly approaching 60! boo!) Your videos have been invaluable. But I have now had a stumble, with this 5110 display one! Fell into the same trap as others with the model of LV shifter YF08E and connected wrong way round. Tested the LV shifter and seems to be function OK. Have spares! However can't get anything on display. don't know if I've bricked it! Have a 2nd one but reluctant to fry that one too! Looking in the library I can't make sense of the connections in relation to how you have it connected. I have the same setup as you, a nano on a breakout board. Can you tell me model of LV shifter you used in this video. Thanks
Oh dear, Stephen. I just listened to the first couple of minutes of my video and I do seem quite definite about the 3v3 supply! In case you need to replace th4e LCD, my version is probably the same screen as this one, just a slightly different PCB: bit.ly/2PZcVnd or this one, a bit cheaper: bit.ly/37bUHEO Both are more expensive than the one I show in my video so you might want to check out other suppliers too, such as AliExpress or eBay. Just be very sure that you're getting a 5110 screen (or 100% compatible) with a total of 8 connections including +ve and GND. The LV shifter used here was probably something like this: bit.ly/2MwgDSX which has 8 inputs (beware of 2 or 4-bit shifters, you need *5 wires* level shifted) and they are DUPLEX (bidirectional). Any level shifter that offers that should be fine. Good luck with your project and watch out for that magic smoke appearing!
Hi Ralph, Re: 8 Channel Level Shifter In your video you state that the side marked VA and A1 ...A8 is the 5V side, this isn't the case. It's the 3.3V side. Applying 5V to VA exceeds the Absolute Max of VA of the chip which is 4.6V. So a small chance of damaging the chip (I got away with it). So, the display to A1 etc and 3.3V to VA: and Arduiino and 5V to VB and B1 etc. Also OE needs to be pulled to 3.3V. I'm sure most folks will work this out but the above might avoid a bit of head scratching and hair tearing (I don't have much to start with :) ) A nice video as always Regards Dave
I can't work out if this is an error (in my video) or whether some level shifters are marked up differently. I've several level shifters and none of them are consistent - in fact what *looks like* the 'high' (5v) side often isn't. Some are marked A/B, some of them H/L and some not at all, just 1,2,3, etc. But thanks for pointing this out Dave, as I wouldn't want to be responsible for further follicle challenges for your or anyone else :)
I guess that,where there is no obvious board marking it will be case of identifying the chip (YF08E in my case) looking up the datasheet and where VccA (3.3V) and VccB (5V) pins are (2 and 19 in my case). I/O connections on the VccA side are almost certainly 3.3V and 5V on the VccB side.
Indeed Themis, that was the Sublime Text Editor with (Arduino) Stino add-in. It's a great step up from the standard Arduino, not too complex to either use or install but does give many features. What you need is a nice video to show you how to do all this -- OH, would you believe it, check out my video #69 Sublime with Stino, what a coincidence!
I have been successfully using it with 5V Arduino Nano powering it from 3.3V rail and connecting data lines to Nano ports directly... No issue! It looks tolerant to 5V data ports...
Sergiy Gryb I have not watched the video yet but just recently I connected one of these displays to an Arduino Nano and it worked perfectly at 5V running the u8g2 and u8x8 libraries.
Yes, there are reports that it *can* work at 5v, although that is not what the spec states! We might be lucky, we might not be. I couldn't possibly state in my video that it works fine at 5v and then have loads of complaints that the displays were fried! Ha! Can you imagine? But empirical evidence does indicate that at least some of these displays work at 5v OK. Thanks for the information.
Sure, Ralph, agree; However, I would clearly separate the topic to: - powering the display (no doubts, according to a spec it should be 2.7 - 3.3V ); and - connecting data lines to a micro controller. I have four 5110 display modules from different AliExpress sellers running in pair with 5V Arduino Nano v3 modules and all of them work just fine with 5V based data lines without any extra voltage level shifting solutions. Knowing that would save you $$$ and space eliminating unnecessary resistors and level shifting multi-channel modules...
Oh definitely, the VCC is 3.3V but you (and many others) all say it works fine for the data lines at 5v, whether by design or good luck we don't know. Of course, if my suspicions are correct that we are no longer buying *original* 5110 TFTs but some modern day copy made by a Far Eastern company, then maybe they have upped the spec to allow 5v on the data lines? Who knows?
Thanks, Ralph nice tutorial, yes I do have two but never used so I will have to get them out and have a go as I want to make a small timer and this display would do the job, I have found this U8glib-master library that looks good for all the fonts you could want Thanks Bob
Hi again Ralph! Caught up on all of your videos. incredibly good info and, even better, makes me think a great deal of what is possible. Question for you about displays. Is it possible to get 10 displays to show the same information from Arduino? Like a countdown timer, for instance? Maybe if they all had the same I2C address? What do you think?
Hey Larry, good to hear from you, and I'm amazed you've caught up on all my videos! And I'm glad you're now thinking of all the things we might do with an Arduino. Regarding running multiple Nokia 5110 screens from one Arduino, they don't use I2C they use SPI so you *could* use a different Chip Select (CS) line for each (using 10 pins - wow!) and the same SPI lines of course. But I haven't tried this but if the TFT adheres to the SPI standard then is certainly *should* work. If you have a need for this I'd get two screens and get that working first before buying a further 8!
Ralph S Bacon , I was actually thinking of using the 20x4 lcd displays that do use I2C. Your video on the 5112 got me thinking about it. I need a countdown timer to run on all of the displays, plus some other minor bits of information. Trying to find the best way of displaying that!!
Ah ha! Yes, you would obviously use I2C then, but the range of addresses is limited to 2^3 (or is that 3^2); whatever it's down to the three pads on the back of the I2C unit (backpack) of the LCD, you have 8 options, I believe. It's... It's down to what chip is on the backpack, usually a PCF8574 or PCF8574AT which have *different* ranges. Thus, if you can source the two types of backpacks you have up to 16 address available to you. Does this help?
Ralph S Bacon , certainly does! it is for a timer that 10 positions would need to see. Ideally, once I get them all working, the real challenge would be to be to get information from a software program to the displays. The program has the time and other info that I want to display, but not all the info needs to be on the displays. Have to figure that one out. So I have several of the 20x4 displays coming to play with! Thanks so much for your help, Ralph. I do appreciate it greatly. Tell Benny my cat also checks my equipment for faults from time to time as well!!
+LS th-cam.com/video/yef23sJjiU0/w-d-xo.html www.hackmeister.dk/2010/08/4-lcd-displays-on-1-arduino/ Try Arduino Mega, it got many ports, Chinese is not expensive from Aliexpress or Ebay...etc. Example: www.banggood.com/buy/arduino-mega.html
I wish the PIC chips had a super easy IDE and huge fan base like Arduino and AVR chips. I'm happy that AVR is now part of Microchip and there are a lot of new videos from Microchip coming out, but...where's my easy PIC stuff...
Interesting what you say there, Raymond. When I was doing PIC stuff (and I may yet return to it one day) I just used my PicKit3 and Swordfish compiler and.. well that was it really. But that was the (almost .Net-strength) Basic-like language not C++, but I did do some assembler programming for PICs too (if you like having your fingernails pulled out by a pair of rusty nails that probably appeals to you too). The worst thing in the whole world (and remains so I believe) is that the Microchip C Compiler had a sort of entry-level, medium and Enterprise licence. All the same compiler but the lower the grade the less optimised the code to the point it would allegedly insert NOP statements to prevent companies using it for their commercial products (each NOP uses yet another clock cycle and 1 byte of space). If they had given away the un-hobbled version of their IDE/Compiler this channel would be all about PICs not Arduinos!
Swordfish, I haven't heard of that one. I checked their page and could find no reference as to what OS is needed. I'm assuming Windows. All of my computers are Linux, but I could cobble together one and load it with Windows if need be just to try it out. I sent the website an email to verify...Thanks
Ralph S Bacon, That whole thing about the un-optimized version of XC8 adding NOPs is true. But, I still do a majority of my embedded programming with PICs. Juat so much variety available that you don't get with Arduino, and if you know what you're doing you can get around the NOP problem. But even if that weren't true, the free versions of Microchip's compilers and IDE are perfectly fine for the hobbyist.
Believe me, BEdmonson85, if I had the time I would this channel with both PICs and Arduinos, simply due to the diversity of hardware in both camps - yet the peripherals can be used by both (for the most part). I agree that the free compilers do the job but it just smells wrong that Microchip would even want to charge for their compiler - they should be making it *easy* to use their chips so we buy loads of them! At least Arduino is a separate entity (although they too have their political problems, Arduion.org vs Arduino.cc). Sigh.
I have dozens of PICs, books, a PicKit 2, a 3 & a clone 3. My real PicKit 3 stopped working, so I got the clone from China. Then I found that the original PicKit 2 can be configured to work as a PicKit 3, even though MicroChip says it can't. The newer/bigger PICs can run BASIC and other languages, and even emulate an Arduino (ChipKIT). One of the first BASIC systems was the free MMBasic for the PIC32 Micromite, by Geoff Graham (geoffg.net/micromite.html). It's easy to interface a Nokia 5110 (Nokia 3310) LCD to a PIC.
What's the other row of holes on that display for? I assume that it's possible to PWM that backlight so that you can control the brightness? That flashing on and off reminds me of why I *never* use the flash token in all of the HTML that I've ever written-- it's annoying! :-)
What's a web page without some flashing image on it? Boring! In fact, have two or three, it won't annoy your users at all! Yes, I think you should be able to PWM the LED backlighting, easy to test that theory out! Not sure about the other row of holes, perhaps they are just duplicate holes for daisy chaining these displays?
Funnily enough, Sergiy, if you don't even set the contrast with that pot then it works just fine too. I guess it uses, by default, the er, default value (possibly 62)? Useful to know this though, so thanks for posting the info.
Hi. I like this video but can't understand what defines to which pins on Arduino is LCD connected? I can't use the pins you are using, and trying to find a way to go around. What should I edit to use pins 2, 3, 4, &5 ?
I have a small handful of these excellent displays, and at one time (20 years ago) I used a 5110 as my only phone. These displays are available from China for less than $2 postpaid, and they work with Arduinos, Raspberry Pis, and anything else that has enough output pins for the display, plus at least one pin for a sensor or other input, otherwise what's the point of a display-only computer? I got a kick out of your "if you don't have a 20K resistor" joke. All that needs to be done is to put two 10K resistors in series. While you can still (the phone itself was discontinued in 2001) get the displays from a cell phone parts dealer, or from old phones themselves. it isn't as easy to hook them up as it is by just buying the display module from China. The phone's main board has finger contacts, while the physical display itself is glass This means that the main board finger contacts have to be pressed against the contact pads on the glass display. However, the finger pins are small, and not that easy to solder to (especially for anyone who actually used a 5110 all those decades ago). Depending on who assembles the modules in China, the pins may be numbered from left to right, or from right to left. So go by the numbers when connecting the device, rather than from photos.
As I alluded to in my video, I'm not convinced that these are original 5110 displays any longer. I mean it was 16 years ago that they stopped making them and every Arduinite as at least one. How many extra millions did they make for goodness sake? I wonder if some enterprising Far Eastern company isn't still churning them out by the thousand because there is still a market for them! And I remember the trouble I have had with lining up the screen display fingers with their board contacts, what a palaver! Amazing that it actually works as well as it does. Good to hear from you,Art, thanks for posting.
I was in Japan & the USA for a month. During the visit I loaded up on stuff from Adafruit & Amazon.com (I took advantage of their offer of free Prime membership for a month, and that was great). Months ago I made an Amazon Echo Alexa from a Raspberry Pi 3 and it worked mostly OK. In the US I got a real Echo Dot, Google Home, and Google Chromecast, among other toys. There are plenty of TH-cam videos that show how to use these things in "unauthorized" countries.
Yup, as Sergiy states, the Nokia 5110 is deffo 84 x 48. It might be that those sellers are selling Nokia 5110-LIKE displays, that use the same Philips chip but have better resolution (possibly from a better phone or other product).
Benny is currently not talking to me (much) as I have not let him in the workshop, so we shall see what his behaviour is here in about a week when it will be safe(r) than it is right now! Keep tuned for his cameo appearance, Pierre!
Hi Ralph, good video. With your code you can get rid of the while loop by putting the code before the loop, that you only want to execute once, in the setup part of the code. I, like a few of you other subscribers have used the display without the level shifting. Check out Julians video th-cam.com/video/RAlZ1DHw03g/w-d-xo.html I look forward to a video on graphics with this display.
Yes, I guess I could have done that, Tom. Who's this New Kid on the Block, Julian? Does he do any good videos? Never heard of him. Heh heh! More to the point I wonder if he has ever heard about me? Yes, I will have to do a video on graphics capabilities for this device. Not saying when that will be, but it will be worth doing.
Great video and welcome back. I like these displays for the reasons you stated. I wish I could figure out how to graph a data point on it. I've seen it done in one video, but no explanation of how.
Hmm, could be the subject of a future video now we have the basics out of the way. Simple graphics or graphs. It's pretty easy to address any point on the display, especially when using a library to take away all the intricacies. Thanks for the (implied) suggestion :)
Most IC's have clamping diodes (inherent due to the manufacturing process) so it's usually enough to only hook up resistors in series and let them do the rest. Many times you can find specification about their maximum clamping current in the ds so it's rather easy to find a suitable value :)
Yes, there's been some discussion about level shifting Christiaan, with many saying what you say. Others insist the proper way to do it is with a potential divider (so two resistors), and yet others only use a level shifter like the one I demo here. Who's right? The simple answer is that everyone is! If it works (and works reliably) then it's the solution for you. Great info you give there about the maximum clamping current figure to be found in the datasheet - something I'll be looking for next time I level shift. Thanks for posting.
These displays are not TFTs, they are LCDs... I have never had any problems connecting the data lines directly to 5v but this may of course vary from display to display. I have only tested with about 20 of them.I have also written a couple of libraries (one basic/text and one for gfx) for them which are available on my website.
Excellent Rinky-Dink, I shall look at those libraries in the near future. Thanks for posting.
Usually I give less voltage to the screen backlight if possible. For example I have a ST7920 5V screen, and I give only 3.3V to the backlight. Still clearly visible, but longer lifetime for the backlight.
The becames black MAYBE because you should adjust the contrast if the voltage goes higher. I have a ESP8266 + ST7920 clock, if a change power supply, or use/not use breadboard I have to adjust the contrast. It makes max 0.5V difference. Btw there is a lot of circuit that 5V tolerant. Like I have a STM32... checked the datasheet, lot of pins are marked it can handle 5V level signals. The power input still have to be 3.3V.
Another tip: if you need 3.3V, use an uno to power an other uno from the firsts 3.3V output. The uno works fine with 3.3V, and now you can power anything w/o level converters. Good for testing!
Yes. Unfortunately I haven't got one, and the shipping is slow. So if you aren't in a hurry, go for it.
But I wanted to test an item, so it is a perfect solution for me.
Ah yes, the UNO/Nano will (not officially) run all the way down to 2.7 volts apparently, but you would be outside of the spec sheet's tolerances. But a GREAT way to test out screens (or other devices) that are (allegedly) not 5v tolerant.
Good tip about the contrast too. Unfortunately I don't want to burn out my screen like others do in their TH-cam channels as my funds are very limited! But I might experiment a bit further with voltage just to see how it copes...
Hi Ralph!
Just checked the Atmel 328P datasheet, from 2.7V max 10MHz is in spec. For 10-20MHz you need 4.5+. The 328p can go as low as 1.8V up to 4MHz, up to 5.5V and 20MHz.
There is RTC support in the arduino. You only need a 32KHz quartz, wich costs nearly nothing. Like 100PCS for 2.5GBP. And the datasheet says something very low power consumption. After my exam season I'll investigate this myselft, but notify you just in case you are interested in it. There are some downsides too, no battery backup, and probably more drift compared to a thermally controlled DS3231.
AND EVEN MORE INTERESTING: 8bit MCU Dev board $1 (or less) delivered! STM8, you maybe need an ST-Link, and there is somekind of Arduino SDK for it named "sduino" on github.
You're not the first person on this channel to mention the STM8; the trouble is, there is too much hardware out there for me to investigate! But it's interesting about the frequency vs voltage on the Atmel 328P. I have had a standard 16Mhz Nano run at 2.7 volts (from a decaying 18650 battery) but that is (according to you and the datasheet) just sheer blind luck and not within spec. Hmm, I'll read up a bit more about voltages tonight, thanks for the info, very useful.
Guess I am lucky. I built a digital thermometer six years ago using one of these and a NANO. I hooked it up using a 9 volt battery run through the NANO and it's been working 24/7 since the day I finished the build. Perhaps I got a good one.
A good 9v battery do you mean? Six years on one battery? Wow! Or did you mean that you have had to change the battery but the device has been working 24/7 since the day you installed it?
Hi Ralph, Newbie to Arduino, but not to coding and some basic electronics,(at rapidly approaching 60! boo!) Your videos have been invaluable. But I have now had a stumble, with this 5110 display one! Fell into the same trap as others with the model of LV shifter YF08E and connected wrong way round. Tested the LV shifter and seems to be function OK. Have spares! However can't get anything on display. don't know if I've bricked it! Have a 2nd one but reluctant to fry that one too! Looking in the library I can't make sense of the connections in relation to how you have it connected. I have the same setup as you, a nano on a breakout board. Can you tell me model of LV shifter you used in this video. Thanks
Oh dear, Stephen. I just listened to the first couple of minutes of my video and I do seem quite definite about the 3v3 supply! In case you need to replace th4e LCD, my version is probably the same screen as this one, just a slightly different PCB:
bit.ly/2PZcVnd
or this one, a bit cheaper:
bit.ly/37bUHEO
Both are more expensive than the one I show in my video so you might want to check out other suppliers too, such as AliExpress or eBay. Just be very sure that you're getting a 5110 screen (or 100% compatible) with a total of 8 connections including +ve and GND.
The LV shifter used here was probably something like this:
bit.ly/2MwgDSX
which has 8 inputs (beware of 2 or 4-bit shifters, you need *5 wires* level shifted) and they are DUPLEX (bidirectional). Any level shifter that offers that should be fine.
Good luck with your project and watch out for that magic smoke appearing!
Hi Ralph,
Re: 8 Channel Level Shifter
In your video you state that the side marked VA and A1 ...A8 is the 5V side, this isn't the case. It's the 3.3V side.
Applying 5V to VA exceeds the Absolute Max of VA of the chip which is 4.6V. So a small chance of damaging the chip (I got away with it).
So, the display to A1 etc and 3.3V to VA: and Arduiino and 5V to VB and B1 etc. Also OE needs to be pulled to 3.3V.
I'm sure most folks will work this out but the above might avoid a bit of head scratching and hair tearing (I don't have much to start with :) )
A nice video as always
Regards
Dave
I can't work out if this is an error (in my video) or whether some level shifters are marked up differently. I've several level shifters and none of them are consistent - in fact what *looks like* the 'high' (5v) side often isn't. Some are marked A/B, some of them H/L and some not at all, just 1,2,3, etc. But thanks for pointing this out Dave, as I wouldn't want to be responsible for further follicle challenges for your or anyone else :)
I guess that,where there is no obvious board marking it will be case of identifying the chip (YF08E in my case) looking up the datasheet and where VccA (3.3V) and VccB (5V) pins are (2 and 19 in my case). I/O connections on the VccA side are almost certainly 3.3V and 5V on the VccB side.
Thank you for the new video Ralph.
Can you tell me what is the IDE software you are using for code?
It looks cool with all the colors.
Themis
Indeed Themis, that was the Sublime Text Editor with (Arduino) Stino add-in. It's a great step up from the standard Arduino, not too complex to either use or install but does give many features. What you need is a nice video to show you how to do all this -- OH, would you believe it, check out my video #69 Sublime with Stino, what a coincidence!
So... you already have a video for all of our questions :)
Thank you again Ralph
Keep up the qood work
IT WORKS VERY WELL WITH 5V! NO PROBLEM AT ALL !
Excellent! These are the comments that I like! Good stuff.
I have been successfully using it with 5V Arduino Nano powering it from 3.3V rail and connecting data lines to Nano ports directly... No issue! It looks tolerant to 5V data ports...
Sergiy Gryb I have not watched the video yet but just recently I connected one of these displays to an Arduino Nano and it worked perfectly at 5V running the u8g2 and u8x8 libraries.
Yes, there are reports that it *can* work at 5v, although that is not what the spec states! We might be lucky, we might not be. I couldn't possibly state in my video that it works fine at 5v and then have loads of complaints that the displays were fried! Ha! Can you imagine? But empirical evidence does indicate that at least some of these displays work at 5v OK. Thanks for the information.
Sure, Ralph, agree; However, I would clearly separate the topic to:
- powering the display (no doubts, according to a spec it should be 2.7 - 3.3V ); and
- connecting data lines to a micro controller.
I have four 5110 display modules from different AliExpress sellers running in pair with 5V Arduino Nano v3 modules and all of them work just fine with 5V based data lines without any extra voltage level shifting solutions. Knowing that would save you $$$ and space eliminating unnecessary resistors and level shifting multi-channel modules...
Oh definitely, the VCC is 3.3V but you (and many others) all say it works fine for the data lines at 5v, whether by design or good luck we don't know. Of course, if my suspicions are correct that we are no longer buying *original* 5110 TFTs but some modern day copy made by a Far Eastern company, then maybe they have upped the spec to allow 5v on the data lines? Who knows?
Thanks, Ralph nice tutorial, yes I do have two but never used so I will have to get them out and have a go as I want to make a small timer and this display would do the job, I have found this U8glib-master library that looks good for all the fonts you could want Thanks Bob
I hope it all works out, Bob, these displays are very nice.
Hi again Ralph! Caught up on all of your videos. incredibly good info and, even better, makes me think a great deal of what is possible. Question for you about displays. Is it possible to get 10 displays to show the same information from Arduino? Like a countdown timer, for instance? Maybe if they all had the same I2C address? What do you think?
Hey Larry, good to hear from you, and I'm amazed you've caught up on all my videos! And I'm glad you're now thinking of all the things we might do with an Arduino. Regarding running multiple Nokia 5110 screens from one Arduino, they don't use I2C they use SPI so you *could* use a different Chip Select (CS) line for each (using 10 pins - wow!) and the same SPI lines of course. But I haven't tried this but if the TFT adheres to the SPI standard then is certainly *should* work. If you have a need for this I'd get two screens and get that working first before buying a further 8!
Ralph S Bacon , I was actually thinking of using the 20x4 lcd displays that do use I2C. Your video on the 5112 got me thinking about it. I need a countdown timer to run on all of the displays, plus some other minor bits of information. Trying to find the best way of displaying that!!
Ah ha! Yes, you would obviously use I2C then, but the range of addresses is limited to 2^3 (or is that 3^2); whatever it's down to the three pads on the back of the I2C unit (backpack) of the LCD, you have 8 options, I believe. It's...
It's down to what chip is on the backpack, usually a PCF8574 or PCF8574AT which have *different* ranges. Thus, if you can source the two types of backpacks you have up to 16 address available to you. Does this help?
Ralph S Bacon , certainly does! it is for a timer that 10 positions would need to see. Ideally, once I get them all working, the real challenge would be to be to get information from a software program to the displays. The program has the time and other info that I want to display, but not all the info needs to be on the displays. Have to figure that one out. So I have several of the 20x4 displays coming to play with! Thanks so much for your help, Ralph. I do appreciate it greatly. Tell Benny my cat also checks my equipment for faults from time to time as well!!
+LS th-cam.com/video/yef23sJjiU0/w-d-xo.html
www.hackmeister.dk/2010/08/4-lcd-displays-on-1-arduino/
Try Arduino Mega, it got many ports, Chinese is not expensive from Aliexpress or Ebay...etc. Example:
www.banggood.com/buy/arduino-mega.html
I wish the PIC chips had a super easy IDE and huge fan base like Arduino and AVR chips. I'm happy that AVR is now part of Microchip and there are a lot of new videos from Microchip coming out, but...where's my easy PIC stuff...
Interesting what you say there, Raymond.
When I was doing PIC stuff (and I may yet return to it one day) I just used my PicKit3 and Swordfish compiler and.. well that was it really. But that was the (almost .Net-strength) Basic-like language not C++, but I did do some assembler programming for PICs too (if you like having your fingernails pulled out by a pair of rusty nails that probably appeals to you too).
The worst thing in the whole world (and remains so I believe) is that the Microchip C Compiler had a sort of entry-level, medium and Enterprise licence. All the same compiler but the lower the grade the less optimised the code to the point it would allegedly insert NOP statements to prevent companies using it for their commercial products (each NOP uses yet another clock cycle and 1 byte of space). If they had given away the un-hobbled version of their IDE/Compiler this channel would be all about PICs not Arduinos!
Swordfish, I haven't heard of that one. I checked their page and could find no reference as to what OS is needed. I'm assuming Windows. All of my computers are Linux, but I could cobble together one and load it with Windows if need be just to try it out. I sent the website an email to verify...Thanks
Ralph S Bacon, That whole thing about the un-optimized version of XC8 adding NOPs is true. But, I still do a majority of my embedded programming with PICs. Juat so much variety available that you don't get with Arduino, and if you know what you're doing you can get around the NOP problem. But even if that weren't true, the free versions of Microchip's compilers and IDE are perfectly fine for the hobbyist.
Believe me, BEdmonson85, if I had the time I would this channel with both PICs and Arduinos, simply due to the diversity of hardware in both camps - yet the peripherals can be used by both (for the most part). I agree that the free compilers do the job but it just smells wrong that Microchip would even want to charge for their compiler - they should be making it *easy* to use their chips so we buy loads of them! At least Arduino is a separate entity (although they too have their political problems, Arduion.org vs Arduino.cc). Sigh.
I have dozens of PICs, books, a PicKit 2, a 3 & a clone 3. My real PicKit 3 stopped working, so I got the clone from China. Then I found that the original PicKit 2 can be configured to work as a PicKit 3, even though MicroChip says it can't. The newer/bigger PICs can run BASIC and other languages, and even emulate an Arduino (ChipKIT). One of the first BASIC systems was the free MMBasic for the PIC32 Micromite, by Geoff Graham (geoffg.net/micromite.html).
It's easy to interface a Nokia 5110 (Nokia 3310) LCD to a PIC.
What's the other row of holes on that display for? I assume that it's possible to PWM that backlight so that you can control the brightness? That flashing on and off reminds me of why I *never* use the flash token in all of the HTML that I've ever written-- it's annoying! :-)
What's a web page without some flashing image on it? Boring! In fact, have two or three, it won't annoy your users at all!
Yes, I think you should be able to PWM the LED backlighting, easy to test that theory out!
Not sure about the other row of holes, perhaps they are just duplicate holes for daisy chaining these displays?
RE Contrast: the "normal" working contrast value is in the range of 62...70. I use 62 by default...
Funnily enough, Sergiy, if you don't even set the contrast with that pot then it works just fine too. I guess it uses, by default, the er, default value (possibly 62)? Useful to know this though, so thanks for posting the info.
Hi. I like this video but can't understand what defines to which pins on Arduino is LCD connected? I can't use the pins you are using, and trying to find a way to go around. What should I edit to use pins 2, 3, 4, &5 ?
You would need to edit the library I'm using, Alfa. Not a job for the faint-hearted though.
@@RalphBacon Thanks, that is what I thought.
Great video as usual. I don't know why I have 20 of these tho.
Wow! About time you used some of them up. Now you can! Thanks for your support, Darrell.
I have a small handful of these excellent displays, and at one time (20 years ago) I used a 5110 as my only phone.
These displays are available from China for less than $2 postpaid, and they work with Arduinos, Raspberry Pis, and anything else that has enough output pins for the display, plus at least one pin for a sensor or other input, otherwise what's the point of a display-only computer?
I got a kick out of your "if you don't have a 20K resistor" joke. All that needs to be done is to put two 10K resistors in series.
While you can still (the phone itself was discontinued in 2001) get the displays from a cell phone parts dealer, or from old phones themselves. it isn't as easy to hook them up as it is by just buying the display module from China. The phone's main board has finger contacts, while the physical display itself is glass This means that the main board finger contacts have to be pressed against the contact pads on the glass display. However, the finger pins are small, and not that easy to solder to (especially for anyone who actually used a 5110 all those decades ago). Depending on who assembles the modules in China, the pins may be numbered from left to right, or from right to left. So go by the numbers when connecting the device, rather than from photos.
As I alluded to in my video, I'm not convinced that these are original 5110 displays any longer. I mean it was 16 years ago that they stopped making them and every Arduinite as at least one. How many extra millions did they make for goodness sake? I wonder if some enterprising Far Eastern company isn't still churning them out by the thousand because there is still a market for them!
And I remember the trouble I have had with lining up the screen display fingers with their board contacts, what a palaver! Amazing that it actually works as well as it does. Good to hear from you,Art, thanks for posting.
I was in Japan & the USA for a month. During the visit I loaded up on stuff from Adafruit & Amazon.com (I took advantage of their offer of free Prime membership for a month, and that was great). Months ago I made an Amazon Echo Alexa from a Raspberry Pi 3 and it worked mostly OK. In the US I got a real Echo Dot, Google Home, and Google Chromecast, among other toys. There are plenty of TH-cam videos that show how to use these things in "unauthorized" countries.
Ralph S Bacon lol Sum Yung Guy LCD factory in Shenzen... right down the road from One Hung Lo Clone Arduino factory🙈🙉🙊
A touch long-winded but you got there in the end :) Good video....
All my videos are a touch long-winded, Graham, but know that! At least you liked it, so thanks for that!
Hi Ralph, how come all the ebay suppliers say it's an 128 by 128 LCD screen?
might be a mistake; obviously, they are 84 x 48...
Yup, as Sergiy states, the Nokia 5110 is deffo 84 x 48. It might be that those sellers are selling Nokia 5110-LIKE displays, that use the same Philips chip but have better resolution (possibly from a better phone or other product).
Because they're criminals.
why benny did something as he was sleepy behind you ? just teasing... ;)
Benny is currently not talking to me (much) as I have not let him in the workshop, so we shall see what his behaviour is here in about a week when it will be safe(r) than it is right now! Keep tuned for his cameo appearance, Pierre!
Hi Ralph, good video.
With your code you can get rid of the while loop by putting the code before the loop, that you only want to execute once, in the setup part of the code.
I, like a few of you other subscribers have used the display without the level shifting.
Check out Julians video th-cam.com/video/RAlZ1DHw03g/w-d-xo.html
I look forward to a video on graphics with this display.
Yes, I guess I could have done that, Tom. Who's this New Kid on the Block, Julian? Does he do any good videos? Never heard of him. Heh heh! More to the point I wonder if he has ever heard about me? Yes, I will have to do a video on graphics capabilities for this device. Not saying when that will be, but it will be worth doing.