@@TyreFryersGarage I recently started a car TH-cam channel and every comment is "You should've done it like this" "I'm smarter and know everything" It's never from fellow channels always people that like the sound of their own voice. 🤣 I'm shocked your channel hasn't blown up way bigger than it is. cheers!
Probably at 04:40, hard to believe but that --awesome-- *squeeeeal* is from the piston teetering on the rod, bone-dry. Crazy loud (and will scare the shit outta' you, first time you hear it)
This was one of the most simplest, yet fully descriptive tutorials i think I've ever seen. You kept it very simple, yet covered all the major details I've had questions on. And very simple tools used. Like, I could actually see myself doing this in my garage without all the fancy pricey gimmicks. I really appreciate this video!
Installing pistons and rings with a flat head screwdriver that brings back memories from 20+ years ago as a teen building go kart engines 😂 I’ve never seen anybody else do that since so that was pretty cool 😎
Just add 13lbs of boost and 85lbs injectors and a 450 pump done no gap required no tear down required the lq4 have low enough compression to lice comfortably😊
@@TyreFryersGarage I heard ls are the easiest engine for building? Would you say that’s accurate for a first time builder? Just bought my dads 08 Silverado with a bad lifter and I want to make it a street family hot rod.
@@MintMonte87ACSS312 the gen 4 engines are a little bit more complicated due to afm and dod but they have better internals. I’d say you’re gonna be fine, just do a bunch of research.
WOW!!! I watched the entire video. Perfect length. Perfect time lapse. Perfect commentary. I loved it thank you! I never really thought to bring my engine back to life (threw a rod over 15 years ago)… I don’t even remember if it was out the oil Pan or destroyed the block?!?! …after watching this I think I might look into some local engine rebuild shops to weigh my options. Thanks again!
I've been building engines since I was 15 and never heard of anyone using wd40 to hone a cylinder or just a screwdriver to install pistons also without lube on them. Only a hand full of problems I saw. That engine will be lucky not to blow on first start.
I repeat Do NOT SOAK BRAND NEW LIFTERS. DO NOT JUST LUBE THEM UP. U RUN THE RISK OF BREAK PUSH RODS DUE TO STIFF OVER PUMPED LIFTERS. THISMAN WILL COST U
Love your style of building/video man, I've gotten tired of watching the "low buck" builds where they're in their fully outfitted garage using brand new parts that don't need replacing
Very good video. I love the fact that you took the instructions down to the simplest processes for those that may not have ever tore into an LS or Vortec. A lot of times, they're taken for granted because it's assumed every one watching knows them. Very well done. I'm subscribed now.
i usually drill a hole in the rear seal cover after its aligned and torqued. a 5/16 dowel pin in two spots, drilled a few thousandths smaller, and tapped in. those long oil pan bolts and the two extra transmission housing bolts can pull that rear cover down and distort seal giving you a leak.
I ran some cheap aftermarket lifter trays one time and had all kinds of problems. They were too soft to keep the lifters from turning. Lesson learned and now I use factory ones every time. 👍🇺🇲
Thanks for showing in detail I have never tore down an engine and rebuilt one. Maybe one day I will try. I have an old lt1 it’s in a custom cab yoder just the 700r4 trans went out.
Wow! You are the first person to ever assemble an ls motor. On a side note,YOU WOULD BE THE LAST PERSON I WOULD EVER LET BUILD A MOTOR ! Other than that you did a spectacular job.
@@TyreFryersGarage I can't tell you how many times I have had to repair motors that people who thought they knew what they were doing but actually didn't.
This was sweet to watch considering I’m nearing finishing up a similar build of my 72 c10 4.8 SBE sloppy stage 2 pac 1218’s th400 RMVB transbrake 7875 VSR hooker hot side Aeromotive FPR a1000 pump all AN everything, terminator X etc. gonna be fun haha
I just finished a 5.3LM7 swap in my 68 C10 short bed. BTR stage 2 truck cam, long tube headers and a 2500 stall converter. Nothing like yours but I do take a lot of turns sideways. Enjoy! ✌️👉
I rebuild a 350 bored 40 over, put new pistons Edelbrock heads, Comp camshaft, edelbrock rpm intake and so on. The engine starts runs and all that, but it has the power of an old v w bug, I sure suck at rebuilding engines but it was my first one. I am going to take it to a mechanic to figure things out. Great video.
Ur supposed to keep the hone spinning in the bore when u remove it. You will scratch the hell out of ur cylinder wall doing that. And always lube ur pistons before installing them.
lifter trays are put in backwards they go the other way if you have a gen 4 engine block youll see the bottom of lifter tray goes around the notch in block
Absolutely love your style brother. Well executed on describing what your doing. I need a partner like you. Keep up the good work. It’s hard to find knowledge able people like you that actually do shit worth while.
Good tip for cleaning your bores after honing. Is use ATF fluid ( auto trans oil ) and a clean rag. You will be surprised how clean it picks up all the grit and crap after honing. Also drill a 3/8" hole about 1-1/2" down from top of lifter trays on all lifters, side facing into valley side. Helps with oil drain back from lifters. TH-cam it
See i thought i was tripping when you put them arp rod bolts in. Them.folks told me.i camt do that cause the clamping force wpuld be different and I'll have to rotate my crank again🤦🏿 so im hiding yours was good?
Just a heads up if your using the high volume pump and stock pressure your gonna need it run a deep oil pan with the stock pan that pump will suck the oil pan dry at high rpm
9:30 Wish I wouldve seen this when I was doing my first cam swap! Didnt use any loctite on these bolts and they backed out about 15 minutes after the first start and sent the valves through the pistons 😂😂
Great job man. I didn't realize the LS was such a simple engine to work on, seems easier than a sbc or bbc. Obviously a great design. Now it has me thinking about going to this type of engine, but I have already invested a lot of money in big block stuff. If it was me, I would have first had the block and heads thoroughly cleaned and painted.
SBC and BBC are amazing platforms. Only if the vehicle is really light, under 3000 lbs, or you need the efi/efficiency/convenience would you benefit from the change in platforms. If you build the motors and race them, sbc and bbc both have more aftermarket support than you can ask for and they have unlimited power potential.
Looking forward to seeing the turbo setup! I broke the crank in my 350 in my squarebody, I'd like to build a turbo LS for it I think, seems like the best bang for the buck
Thanks for putting up the torque specs! I'm about to do my 6.0 and You just saved me from having to look it up. How much boost do you think you are going to run to make your 700?
Being mostly involved with Ford module motors- I’ve never really taken the time to check out a LS- while the the mod motors are pretty simple- the LS is weigh more simple than I would have thought...
Just a question, because I haven't built any LS engines, but all the ones I have seen built, the lifter trays were installed opposite of the way you did. Not sure if that makes a difference.
I'm sure your aware but be careful with the high volume oil pump a lot of times it will starve the bottom end. I prefer the high pressure stock volume to increase flow. Great Video. Subbed 👍
@@TyreFryersGarage a high volume pump is good for an engine with larger bearing clearances a high pressure pump is a better route imo for this application They're good for 800+ horse
Why bother worrying about that at this point??? Since the oil pump wasn't correctly installed with the proper side clearance. And using the SMALL Factory OEM pick up on a turbo build will be interesting to watch. Hopefully he used some "Chicon Turbo's" that don't require much oil pressure anyway🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ The NO LUBE on the cylinder walls or even on the wrist pins was "PRICELESS" I beginning to think this guy is a Biden voter, Because he's dam sure ANTI- OIL.
@@TyreFryersGarage So ill assume with you're statement that you've never seen what a engine thats "Over filled" with oil can do??? Yes, you need to factor in the fact that you are adding 1 or 2 accessories (Turbo) and the amount of oil that it will take to fill the lines and the turbo housings. But just over filling the engine isn't a wise idea. And the next thing you need to be aware of, is how much oil flow the Turbos you are going to use require? Because you can damage them just as easy by to much pressure going to them as to little. And that brings us to where are you going to plumb the return lines from the turbo (s) back into the engine??? Remember this, The HOTTEST oil in the engine on a turbo equipped engine is the return oil from the turbo's. Why? Because of the size of the bearings, And how fast they spin with already hot gases being right next to those bearings, as they are SCREAMING at rpm's that you can't imagine. Then add in the fact that of you aren't using waste gates you're really adding a HUGE amount of added stress on Turbo (s) at those RPM's. We deal with 3 compounded (6) Turbos on a 18 liter Cat engine in our pulling truck. Keeping the Turbos cool (inside and out) is a science of its own. When you're making 9-K plus hp. And a few guys pushing 14-K.
In regards to your high volume standard pressure oil pump.. I watched another guy's video and he said he runs a standard volume high pressure oil pump as not to run the pan dry.. would like more info from those who built boosted LS motors thanks.
So i got some pistons/rod/crank setup I had running in a block i had. I’m putting them in a different block I got but it’s needing a cam/main bearing job done to it due to a spun main. Do you recommend getting the crank rebalanced in the new block or just slap it in. It’s gonna be running the same crank/pistons but different block. I’ve heard alot of feedback but still indecisive.
@@TyreFryersGarage i figured since it was new block and it had the spun bearings it might need a rebalance, Im new to the motor building but I’m learning slowly.
I’ve got a gen4 l96 that was hydro locked after a roll over. It has a bent rod. My plan is to find a good used rod for replacement and LS swap my two door JK. Any input? The 2014 6.0 has only 40k miles on it. Should I be ok? Btw, I’ve always used spray copper on my head gaskets on old tractors and such. Nice to see it’s still a good idea.
Yeah I don’t see why you couldn’t. If you really want to get picky you could balance the rotating assembly, but the rods are roughly the same weight from the factory, so I’d assume if you get a rod it’ll be within factory spec. Some people would probably tell you you need a whole set of rods, and while that’d be ideal, you can probably just replace the bent one and it’ll run like a top.
Is the LS engine a direct swap with a 6.5 turbo diesel? I want to get my pick up going but can't seem to find a cheap replacement. Its got a NV4500 5 speed in it for the trans right now.
That I don’t know. Potentially, if the bellhousing is the same bolt pattern. It would probably be easier to drop in a 6.0/4l80e or find a NV4500 with an sbc bolt pattern. You may run into some issues trying to retain the manual transmission.
Did you reuse the rod bearings or check clearances? Jw because I’m kinda new at building short blocks and have a 6.0 that I would like to gap the piston rings for boost and i would like to know what I need to do
5.3s work pretty well around the 550-600whp range on a stock bottom end. If you have a lightweight platform like an s10 or a fox body they work really well
did you have to machine your rods when you switched to arp rod bolts? i know alot of people reuse stock rod bolts but what torque specs are they using?
I’ve retorqued factory bolts, they worked fine at 600 ish whp. I want to turn this thing up a little more eventually so I did it as a precaution. I didn’t machine my rods, I didn’t think it was necessary.
@@TyreFryersGarage ended up doing the same on my build. I think I would change them if I planned on running more than 600hp or revving it more than stock. Crazy how many times you can retorque before a failure…
People get so butthurt about dumb stuff like that. You can make big power so easily with this platform. Literally as long as you have decent oil pressure and compression you can make 600+ at the wheels. You don’t need arp bolts of any kind to do that. All you need is boost, fuel, and a 6.0 that runs lol
@@TyreFryersGarage What fuel buddy? Thanks for the late response, I have a supercharged 6.0 in my 87 Silverado but I've been thinking about going the turbo route on something else! You have a really great video, all the essentials and it wasn't 4 hours long
What cam is that?
It’s a summit racing stage two boost cam www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-8706r1
@@TyreFryersGarage id try the tx speed stage 4.. u won't be let down...
It’s the big zoom zoom bumpy lever
So are you putting turbos in it. Is that how the 700hp?
Yessir. I probably should’ve specified that in the video. Should make that at 15-18 but if not I’m gonna turn it up till it hits that
This took me 20 youtube videos to explain all these steps and you did it in 21 mins! Great job
I probably should’ve been a bit more detailed, judging by the comments 😂😂
@@TyreFryersGarage I recently started a car TH-cam channel and every comment is "You should've done it like this" "I'm smarter and know everything" It's never from fellow channels always people that like the sound of their own voice. 🤣 I'm shocked your channel hasn't blown up way bigger than it is. cheers!
@@squarebodybuilder I’ve been taking some time off to get set up a little better. I’m getting ready to build a garage on my own land 😁
"This motors already been through a fire so I figured it's already been heat treated" SUBSCRIBED!
😂😂😂😂
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Exactly what I thought lol
He got mine too
😂😂😂
The sound of the rod scraping the cylinder....priceless
Probably at 04:40, hard to believe but that --awesome-- *squeeeeal* is from the piston teetering on the rod, bone-dry. Crazy loud (and will scare the shit outta' you, first time you hear it)
Guys, that was the wrist pin in the pin bore of the piston.
I feel really bad for the guy building it. I truly do.
T.S. RACING
@@t.s.racing ...why feel bad? This guy obviously knows his shit... you obviously don't.
Did anyone see any oil go on the rings or the piston to bore serface?
Dude I busted out laughing that was hilarious
This was one of the most simplest, yet fully descriptive tutorials i think I've ever seen. You kept it very simple, yet covered all the major details I've had questions on. And very simple tools used. Like, I could actually see myself doing this in my garage without all the fancy pricey gimmicks. I really appreciate this video!
Installing pistons and rings with a flat head screwdriver that brings back memories from 20+ years ago as a teen building go kart engines 😂 I’ve never seen anybody else do that since so that was pretty cool 😎
Just add 13lbs of boost and 85lbs injectors and a 450 pump done no gap required no tear down required the lq4 have low enough compression to lice comfortably😊
this guy won't buy a ring compressor but he's got the timing cover alignment tool. just bustin your balls man! good vid!
😂
I know it's simple as hell but thank you for covering the initially timing part with the cam chain. A lot of people don't care to show that.
Yeah no problem. I tried to show everything important but also keep it moving
@@TyreFryersGarage I heard ls are the easiest engine for building? Would you say that’s accurate for a first time builder? Just bought my dads 08 Silverado with a bad lifter and I want to make it a street family hot rod.
@@MintMonte87ACSS312 the gen 4 engines are a little bit more complicated due to afm and dod but they have better internals. I’d say you’re gonna be fine, just do a bunch of research.
@@TyreFryersGarage from what I heard you gotta delete them both?
@@MintMonte87ACSS312 yeah it’s just economy and emissions related garbage. Gm did a horrible job with their R&D on both systems.
WOW!!! I watched the entire video. Perfect length. Perfect time lapse. Perfect commentary. I loved it thank you! I never really thought to bring my engine back to life (threw a rod over 15 years ago)… I don’t even remember if it was out the oil Pan or destroyed the block?!?! …after watching this I think I might look into some local engine rebuild shops to weigh my options. Thanks again!
Thanks dude! I appreciate the support!
Soak the lifters in Royal Purple for two weeks but slam the pistons in dry without a ring compressor. Great "how to" information.
He didn't just slam them in he used a screw driver to help!
I liked the screech as the connecting rod slid down that freshly honed cylinder bore.
@@robertdillon4491the bore job was a hack job so mehh does it really matter
I've been building engines since I was 15 and never heard of anyone using wd40 to hone a cylinder or just a screwdriver to install pistons also without lube on them. Only a hand full of problems I saw. That engine will be lucky not to blow on first start.
I repeat Do NOT SOAK BRAND NEW LIFTERS. DO NOT JUST LUBE THEM UP. U RUN THE RISK OF BREAK PUSH RODS DUE TO STIFF OVER PUMPED LIFTERS. THISMAN WILL COST U
Love your style of building/video man, I've gotten tired of watching the "low buck" builds where they're in their fully outfitted garage using brand new parts that don't need replacing
Thanks dude!
Very good video. I love the fact that you took the instructions down to the simplest processes for those that may not have ever tore into an LS or Vortec. A lot of times, they're taken for granted because it's assumed every one watching knows them. Very well done. I'm subscribed now.
Simple call Texas speed
LOL. I love this comment
i usually drill a hole in the rear seal cover after its aligned and torqued. a 5/16 dowel pin in two spots, drilled a few thousandths smaller, and tapped in. those long oil pan bolts and the two extra transmission housing bolts can pull that rear cover down and distort seal giving you a leak.
I ran some cheap aftermarket lifter trays one time and had all kinds of problems. They were too soft to keep the lifters from turning. Lesson learned and now I use factory ones every time. 👍🇺🇲
Thanks for showing in detail I have never tore down an engine and rebuilt one. Maybe one day I will try. I have an old lt1 it’s in a custom cab yoder just the 700r4 trans went out.
Cool hope you get to it and do it
You may want to look into a 4l80 swap
Uu
Uuuu
4L80 swap circle D trans
Wow! You are the first person to ever assemble an ls motor.
On a side note,YOU WOULD BE THE LAST PERSON I WOULD EVER LET BUILD A MOTOR !
Other than that you did a spectacular job.
Dang dude who pissed in your cheerios
@@TyreFryersGarage I can't tell you how many times I have had to repair motors that people who thought they knew what they were doing but actually didn't.
@@davidsharp922 it’s still running like a champ so idk what to tell ya 🤷♂️
@@davidsharp922 I agree with you 100%.. This is a clinic on exactly what not to do when building an engine..
@@TyreFryersGarage Is this your first engine build? Curious
This was sweet to watch considering I’m nearing finishing up a similar build of my 72 c10 4.8 SBE sloppy stage 2 pac 1218’s th400 RMVB transbrake 7875 VSR hooker hot side Aeromotive FPR a1000 pump all AN everything, terminator X etc. gonna be fun haha
Yeah that should be pretty rowdy!
I just finished a 5.3LM7 swap in my 68 C10 short bed. BTR stage 2 truck cam, long tube headers and a 2500 stall converter. Nothing like yours but I do take a lot of turns sideways. Enjoy! ✌️👉
I feel if you went just a tiny bit more into specs I would go out and rebuild tonight lmfaoooo damn good job
I’ll probably make a video covering the full specs
Man I wish somebody would do I can go out n buy a used one n build it to
No fancy tools. Just straight build. Subscribed
I rebuild a 350 bored 40 over, put new pistons Edelbrock heads, Comp camshaft, edelbrock rpm intake and so on. The engine starts runs and all that, but it has the power of an old v w bug, I sure suck at rebuilding engines but it was my first one. I am going to take it to a mechanic to figure things out. Great video.
Rather spend more time here than WD!!!! Very happy I found you J!!!! Keep up the good content!!!! God bless you and yours!!!
Thanks for the support bro
I knew you were that guy! I was like oh mine isnt the camera man with wd?
Ur supposed to keep the hone spinning in the bore when u remove it. You will scratch the hell out of ur cylinder wall doing that. And always lube ur pistons before installing them.
lifter trays are put in backwards they go the other way if you have a gen 4 engine block youll see the bottom of lifter tray goes around the notch in block
Absolutely love your style brother. Well executed on describing what your doing. I need a partner like you. Keep up the good work. It’s hard to find knowledge able people like you that actually do shit worth while.
Thanks dude! Appreciate the support!
@@TyreFryersGarage you da man!
Tons of good information, not really explaining the distinguishing factors of why this engine is so good but its a beast.
Dude no oil on the bore or pistons when installing them ??
Good tip for cleaning your bores after honing. Is use ATF fluid ( auto trans oil ) and a clean rag. You will be surprised how clean it picks up all the grit and crap after honing.
Also drill a 3/8" hole about 1-1/2" down from top of lifter trays on all lifters, side facing into valley side. Helps with oil drain back from lifters. TH-cam it
When you use a long extension the tork reading will be off.
Very detailed but straight to the point video honestly feel confident building mine by simply watching this. MORE PLEASE!
This is how not to build.
Damn I’ve never put pistons in by hand like that😂 that’s hardcore. I have a lisle ring compressor that’s like 20 years old that works like a charm.
When you see that you method you know he’s a gear head
@@vitovato5342 Really? Compressor is quicker and no broke rings.
Is there an update video with how much mileage you put on this so far? Great build, simple an to the point.
Awesome walk thru. I feel like I can rebuild/refresh a 6.0 when I’m ready 🙌🏽
Dont do it like this!
See i thought i was tripping when you put them arp rod bolts in. Them.folks told me.i camt do that cause the clamping force wpuld be different and I'll have to rotate my crank again🤦🏿 so im hiding yours was good?
Going to use this step by step to rebuild my G8 6.0
Please dont.. This video is a clinic of what not to do when building an engine...
Just a heads up if your using the high volume pump and stock pressure your gonna need it run a deep oil pan with the stock pan that pump will suck the oil pan dry at high rpm
Really? I’ve never heard of that
But I suppose it’s possible
Best build knowledge I ever watched 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Once you replace the rod bolts you need to get then resized.
Actually, the ridges go on the bottom for the lifter trays. This becomes more apparent when you build a Gen 4 LS.
Yeah you’re right I had em flipped
I actually searched for this comment lol
I’m not too proud to admit when I make mistakes lol
@@TyreFryersGarage lol, its fine, just a simple mistake
finally someone that doesn't hone with the dingleberry tool!
thanks for the good vid bro planning on building a ls3 for my camaro this winter
9:30 Wish I wouldve seen this when I was doing my first cam swap! Didnt use any loctite on these bolts and they backed out about 15 minutes after the first start and sent the valves through the pistons 😂😂
Great job man. I didn't realize the LS was such a simple engine to work on, seems easier than a sbc or bbc. Obviously a great design. Now it has me thinking about going to this type of engine, but I have already invested a lot of money in big block stuff. If it was me, I would have first had the block and heads thoroughly cleaned and painted.
SBC and BBC are amazing platforms. Only if the vehicle is really light, under 3000 lbs, or you need the efi/efficiency/convenience would you benefit from the change in platforms. If you build the motors and race them, sbc and bbc both have more aftermarket support than you can ask for and they have unlimited power potential.
@@Russell_and_Rosko LS engine is way better engine than SBC.
@@SOLDOZER it’s not that it’s so much better. It’s just cost to power ratio. Same way the newer stuff will be years down the road
nd machined esp being in a fire! Keep the BB better starting point. Dont need much boost to really move.
6.0 swapping my truck in the future thank you for making this video 🦾
Looking forward to seeing the turbo setup! I broke the crank in my 350 in my squarebody, I'd like to build a turbo LS for it I think, seems like the best bang for the buck
It’s a pretty good value which is why everyone has one lol. But they’re fun. Pretty simple to work on too. And somewhat reliable
Boost your 350 why do a conversion?
“Heat treated “ Good stuff!
😂😂😂
I liked “that’s 106 in lb” --looked like 108 to me hahaha
Ring compressor or a screw driver.. Seen one a THEM at Harbor Freight in China
Thanks for putting up the torque specs! I'm about to do my 6.0 and You just saved me from having to look it up. How much boost do you think you are going to run to make your 700?
I’m guessing around 15-17 but we’ll see.
Did he mark the rods for what cylinder they go back in
wow i didnt even know you had a youtube channel deffietly watching more
04:37 - Talk about stabbing a part in! I think the block screamed! hehehe
One of the best in detail step by step I've seen. Very clean and clear thank you
I might start doing how to’s a little more often, I can’t stand most of the ones out there
Being mostly involved with Ford module motors- I’ve never really taken the time to check out a LS- while the the mod motors are pretty simple- the LS is weigh more simple than I would have thought...
I torque everything as well, lifter trays snug till feels 👍!!
Just a question, because I haven't built any LS engines, but all the ones I have seen built, the lifter trays were installed opposite of the way you did. Not sure if that makes a difference.
I did technically put them in backwards but it’s not a big deal
I'm sure your aware but be careful with the high volume oil pump a lot of times it will starve the bottom end. I prefer the high pressure stock volume to increase flow. Great Video. Subbed 👍
Any thoughts on a solution? I was thinking maybe running an extra quart might help with that
@@TyreFryersGarage a high volume pump is good for an engine with larger bearing clearances a high pressure pump is a better route imo for this application They're good for 800+ horse
Why bother worrying about that at this point??? Since the oil pump wasn't correctly installed with the proper side clearance. And using the SMALL Factory OEM pick up on a turbo build will be interesting to watch. Hopefully he used some "Chicon Turbo's" that don't require much oil pressure anyway🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ The NO LUBE on the cylinder walls or even on the wrist pins was "PRICELESS" I beginning to think this guy is a Biden voter, Because he's dam sure ANTI- OIL.
@@TyreFryersGarage So ill assume with you're statement that you've never seen what a engine thats "Over filled" with oil can do??? Yes, you need to factor in the fact that you are adding 1 or 2 accessories (Turbo) and the amount of oil that it will take to fill the lines and the turbo housings. But just over filling the engine isn't a wise idea. And the next thing you need to be aware of, is how much oil flow the Turbos you are going to use require? Because you can damage them just as easy by to much pressure going to them as to little. And that brings us to where are you going to plumb the return lines from the turbo (s) back into the engine??? Remember this, The HOTTEST oil in the engine on a turbo equipped engine is the return oil from the turbo's. Why? Because of the size of the bearings, And how fast they spin with already hot gases being right next to those bearings, as they are SCREAMING at rpm's that you can't imagine. Then add in the fact that of you aren't using waste gates you're really adding a HUGE amount of added stress on Turbo (s) at those RPM's. We deal with 3 compounded (6) Turbos on a 18 liter Cat engine in our pulling truck. Keeping the Turbos cool (inside and out) is a science of its own. When you're making 9-K plus hp. And a few guys pushing 14-K.
I've always ran a high volume pump with an extra quart of oil ....been wheeling it for 18 years.
Maybe marble mystery oil whipped in the cylinder and pistons would take care of dry dock if not look for savings in oil change
In regards to your high volume standard pressure oil pump.. I watched another guy's video and he said he runs a standard volume high pressure oil pump as not to run the pan dry.. would like more info from those who built boosted LS motors thanks.
jesus you installed that stock bearing back in the engine with all that shit on it? CRAZY!
and has people cheering him on lol
Didn't know he had his own channel! Nice!
So i got some pistons/rod/crank setup I had running in a block i had. I’m putting them in a different block I got but it’s needing a cam/main bearing job done to it due to a spun main. Do you recommend getting the crank rebalanced in the new block or just slap it in. It’s gonna be running the same crank/pistons but different block. I’ve heard alot of feedback but still indecisive.
Why would you need to get it rebalanced? The block shouldn’t have anything to do with it.
@@TyreFryersGarage i figured since it was new block and it had the spun bearings it might need a rebalance, Im new to the motor building but I’m learning slowly.
@@mastermechanic1154 Did you have the crank reground as it had spun bearings?
If you add the lq9 rods and pistons to the lq4 crank would you have to have it balanced?
Enjoyed wtatching. Looking forward to the next video. 💯
Thanks bud!
💯
So just curious but I didn’t see any feeler gauges used to install the oil pump before it was snugged down…
Dude how are you gonna use a feeler gauge to install an LS oil pump
I’ve got a gen4 l96 that was hydro locked after a roll over. It has a bent rod. My plan is to find a good used rod for replacement and LS swap my two door JK. Any input? The 2014 6.0 has only 40k miles on it. Should I be ok? Btw, I’ve always used spray copper on my head gaskets on old tractors and such. Nice to see it’s still a good idea.
Yeah I don’t see why you couldn’t. If you really want to get picky you could balance the rotating assembly, but the rods are roughly the same weight from the factory, so I’d assume if you get a rod it’ll be within factory spec. Some people would probably tell you you need a whole set of rods, and while that’d be ideal, you can probably just replace the bent one and it’ll run like a top.
@@TyreFryersGarage no the rotating assembly was compromised
Is the LS engine a direct swap with a 6.5 turbo diesel? I want to get my pick up going but can't seem to find a cheap replacement. Its got a NV4500 5 speed in it for the trans right now.
That I don’t know. Potentially, if the bellhousing is the same bolt pattern. It would probably be easier to drop in a 6.0/4l80e or find a NV4500 with an sbc bolt pattern. You may run into some issues trying to retain the manual transmission.
Had no idea you have your own channel or that your a truck guy right on man!
Yessir 🤙🤙
Nice video man, your for sure good at what you do 😎
Thanks dude I appreciate it!
@@TyreFryersGarage no problem keep the good content coming! I been trying to stay at it with weekly post but hard working full time and 3 kids 😂
Did you reuse the rod bearings or check clearances? Jw because I’m kinda new at building short blocks and have a 6.0 that I would like to gap the piston rings for boost and i would like to know what I need to do
Maybe im ignorant, but if the timing cover bolts are in their respective holes. Would that not align it as it should be?
This video made me subscribe I’m trying to decide between a 5.3 or 6.0 Plus you gave alot of information
5.3s work pretty well around the 550-600whp range on a stock bottom end. If you have a lightweight platform like an s10 or a fox body they work really well
Thanks a lot 🙌🏼
You working on a car?
Silverado my dream truck.
I was there for the fire I thought it was the last time I would ever see your truck
Nah it’s like a Phoenix, rising from the ashes lol
Excellent video!! What camshaft did you use?
Liked and subbed. Have a 6.0 in the garage all stripped down, this will be perfect for me!
Great. Video brother. Only the best of luck with all you do man👍
The way you explain things reminds me a lot of @TaylorRay
Hello. Do you know if a 4.00 stroker crankshaft will clear Piston oil squirters in a LY6 block?
I don’t
Awesome video Jason!
So arp rod bolts don't need a different rod bearing? With arp higher clamping force than stock rod bolts?
Higher clamping force shouldn’t decrease the clearance of the rod bearings
@@TyreFryersGarage thanks
So dumb question, but do you need to have the rotating assembly balanced like you would a new build?
I don’t, but this engine isn’t going to see more than 6-7k rpm. If you want to rev it out more than that, it probably wouldn’t be a bad idea
Hello. Thanks for the videos. I wanted to ask can a LS engine have good oil pressure with a new oil pump and also have a rod knock?
Dm me on Instagram @tyrefryer95
What if I got a little water down in the oil pan? Maybe a cup full? From sitting outside. Still turns over decent by hand. LQ4
I’d change the oil and send it
@@TyreFryersGarage lol thanks
i did not catch what kind of lifters you were using. Are these the stock 6.0 lifters? or are these ls7s?
They’re Factory Ls7 lifters
Damn you basically just thought me how to build a ls motor :) atleast the most part of it. The timing part very cool. Keep up the great videos
Not really..
since I've never honed a cylinder before, how bad can i mess it up? The cam you used, it is still a good street cam till boost is added later?
Just keep your drill straight, use a ton of wd40 and you’ll be fine. And yeah this is a pretty mild cam
In the future use acetone to clean mating surfaces. It removes all oil film.
did you have to machine your rods when you switched to arp rod bolts? i know alot of people reuse stock rod bolts but what torque specs are they using?
I’ve retorqued factory bolts, they worked fine at 600 ish whp. I want to turn this thing up a little more eventually so I did it as a precaution. I didn’t machine my rods, I didn’t think it was necessary.
@@TyreFryersGarage ended up doing the same on my build. I think I would change them if I planned on running more than 600hp or revving it more than stock. Crazy how many times you can retorque before a failure…
People get so butthurt about dumb stuff like that. You can make big power so easily with this platform. Literally as long as you have decent oil pressure and compression you can make 600+ at the wheels. You don’t need arp bolts of any kind to do that. All you need is boost, fuel, and a 6.0 that runs lol
@@TyreFryersGarage Any time you upgrade or replace rod bolts you need to have them resized...just asking for trouble
Do a valve job at least?
@@gordocarbo lmao 🤣 🤣🤣🤣
imma build a 5.3 I have laying around like this, see if I can't get a 500whp Sierra lol
500 wheel? Just strap a power adder to the stock long block. It'll do it.
Now I want to do it to my Sierra 🤣
@@tri00azerath Its tore apart, Might as well do the work Bub.
Its a rabbit hole, get your wallet out, bub
@@tri00azerath Oof good one Bub.
Awesome information man love the video
Glad you enjoyed it
What fuel are you running on that thing with 15-18lbs of boost? If it's pump, what's your timing look like?
I’ve been running 10-15*
@@TyreFryersGarage What fuel buddy? Thanks for the late response, I have a supercharged 6.0 in my 87 Silverado but I've been thinking about going the turbo route on something else! You have a really great video, all the essentials and it wasn't 4 hours long
What ls is this ? What truck did it come out of as well? Lq4 ? Lq9? L92?
It’s an Lq4 late gen 3 with gen 4 internals
Thought I recognized you from somewhere. Soon as I knew where from, I hit subscribe.
Was that a dry squeek wrist pin?
Where have I seen you before, and love the vid it gave me a lot of information
Thanks for all the info man. Great job!
I was wondering where I recognized you from lol your entire persona is different. Awesome video!
Yea you’re the man bad azz bro 💥💪🏾
Need the pressure lube under the head of the bolt also
Bet your LS is gonna blow up soon
Very possibly