Thank you for this video. I was gifted a walmart bike to help with general fitness and it has a quill stem. My vision isn't all that great but tutorials like this take the fear factor out of all the little fiddly things I'll need to do since there's this weird creaking in my bike's headset and i suspect there's next to no grease on anything. Hadn't wanted to try regreasing because guy with poor vision and little bitty bearings don't mix.
Dammit!!, lol, was watching so I could see what tool pops those top and bottom cups the bearings sit in...you stopped just before that step. Damn. Ha! Thumbs up, anyway. 👍
I can agree with wd as a less abrasive or reactive cleaner. Many times Im satisfied with the job compressed air does on its own. If the parts can take the pressure that is.
It went together easily in less than an hour. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
Just noticed you dont know how to preload bearings. You want to tighten the bearing nut until you feel a small amount of drag when rotating the forks, then back off just a few degrees.
You could use a piece of string (with a bit of slack )around the forks and the headset to stop the forks dropping down ..or if you needed two hands the knock the steerer tube down 😏p.s. 8:34mins 😡i did what you said ..i put the tyre back on ,and i tried to ride it I fell off ,the tyre by itself is all floppy ..you shall be hearing from my lawyers 😏😛😂😏😛😝..great video btw 🥳
Those are cantilever brakes, they are common on older mountain bikes, as they provide more tire clearance than standard calipers. Cantilever brakes mostly gave way to linear-pull brakes once those were available, as they have much better stopping power.
I thought I'd make my mother happy and do an all-round service on her e-bike.
Didn't really want to touch the steering head bearing as I didn't have a 30mm+ wrench. But the thing ran so badly that i bought the right tools and went for it. This lousy threaded race "top" just won't open... 🤬🖕
I'm about to cut the part up and buy my mom a new fork...
Neeko Knight you can but only if the fork has a 1” diameter, most modern forks are 1 1/8. Instead you could use an older fork then buy a headset adapter which allows you to use a normal stem
I did all these steps and my headset still won’t come out, I even soaked the inside with WD 40 to try to get any rust out and lubricate it. What do I do then?
My unit is just like yours... one small issue though, Tange passage 1 inch headset triple sealed caged bearing, after install turning feels sticky, if I make it any looser fork will jiggle, I know I have the seals and bearing direction in right, it's deffinately the seals, anyone help?
+Brian Baldino new bearings or old? I had that too and took it back apart, thoroughly cleaning the bearing then regrease and button back up. also possible you dislodged some crud on the races (clean those too). I just use some generic red auto bearing grease, probably a little heavier than some better bearing grease. it doesn't feel nimble as before, so I might have too much in there, but it feels smooth. Bearing grease thins out over time, so if all is clean and not loose or over tightened you'll be ok with the feel after a couple rides
turned out I did have the seals on wrong on the head set, figured it out within a day so now damage was done. But now my jockey wheels are really rattling, probably have the guide pulley mixed up with the tension pulley, always something man. Thanks for your help! Really Appreciated!
Thank you for the good tips! A lot of the videos on TH-cam show more modern setup. Thanks
You have simplified what I thought would be a gruesome task. Beautiful job. This video helps me a lot. Thanks for your effort.
I had the same problem, but I think I used all the swears words instead of you , super patient great advice in removing stems and keeping cool.
Thanks! Me and my friend spent an hour doing this... this helped
Thank you for this video. I was gifted a walmart bike to help with general fitness and it has a quill stem. My vision isn't all that great but tutorials like this take the fear factor out of all the little fiddly things I'll need to do since there's this weird creaking in my bike's headset and i suspect there's next to no grease on anything. Hadn't wanted to try regreasing because guy with poor vision and little bitty bearings don't mix.
Thanks for the links to the tools, exactly what I was looking for.
Thanks for this video on the classic hardwear.
Was wondering why my headset feel so stiff, had to overhaul it AGAIN. Guess what? my dumbass previously put the bearings upside down.
Thanks man❤
Thank you for sharing.
Great tutorial.
I will do this to my bike soon.
Cool guide, but i think the top bearing is supose to be the other way around(facing down)? So the bottom facing up and top facing down.
He’s got the bottom one the right direction, but the top one is wrong direction (facing up) should be facing down.. oops
Yeah bearings supposed to face down
Top one should be up
the open bearing balls always toward the races. In Ahead systems they are always towards the steering tube because there are the inner races.
@@thatkidfromyoutube6542 No your wrong & he's right. The balls go towards the race, which is the first nut that he threads on.!
i didn't need the second wrench i just used one adjustable wrench to get it off. but still a good video.
Super helpful, thank you!
Extremely nice. Not sure if I have the tools for the operations, maybe I'll pay a pro for this one
Dammit!!, lol, was watching so I could see what tool pops those top and bottom cups the bearings sit in...you stopped just before that step. Damn. Ha! Thumbs up, anyway. 👍
Pro Tip there buddy- Clean the bearings with wd40, it will remove any grease or dirt and not hurt the plastic.
I can agree with wd as a less abrasive or reactive cleaner. Many times Im satisfied with the job compressed air does on its own. If the parts can take the pressure that is.
super helpful video!
Really helpful video bruv 👍 thanks
Enjoyed the video. What car cleaner did you use for the caged bearings?
It went together easily in less than an hour. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
Just noticed you dont know how to preload bearings. You want to tighten the bearing nut until you feel a small amount of drag when rotating the forks, then back off just a few degrees.
Correct
You could use a piece of string (with a bit of slack )around the forks and the headset to stop the forks dropping down ..or if you needed two hands the knock the steerer tube down 😏p.s. 8:34mins 😡i did what you said ..i put the tyre back on ,and i tried to ride it I fell off ,the tyre by itself is all floppy ..you shall be hearing from my lawyers 😏😛😂😏😛😝..great video btw 🥳
Both cage bearings were installed in the wrong direction
Interesting BRAKE set up. Not side pull or straight pull calipers. (It USES calipers, though) What are they? Maybe a closer look video?
?
Those are cantilever brakes, they are common on older mountain bikes, as they provide more tire clearance than standard calipers. Cantilever brakes mostly gave way to linear-pull brakes once those were available, as they have much better stopping power.
5:30 “Carb Cleaner” … is that what he said? ... I was thinking of penetrating or graphite oil. Makes more sense to use that, I’d say now.
How do you do this if the front wheel is missing(stolen)? Can’t brace with legs...
Is your headtube oversize?
thanks
Sar which tool you have used to remove handle screw
How to untach kyuzo gravel bike,just wanna change bearing pls help me😩😫😓
I thought I'd make my mother happy and do an all-round service on her e-bike.
Didn't really want to touch the steering head bearing as I didn't have a 30mm+ wrench.
But the thing ran so badly that i bought the right tools and went for it.
This lousy threaded race "top" just won't open... 🤬🖕
I'm about to cut the part up and buy my mom a new fork...
What year is this bike from? Wanna try this for a 95' Carrera but unsure if it has caged bearings.
And by the way is it the same size bearings?😕
Is it the same as the kyuzo gravel bike aahh imean is it the same to detach a handle bar and fork,I just wanna change the bearing cause it cranks😫😩
What do I do if the two nuts won't untighten
Ser Browntown wd40
Officially reef with an impact. Unofficially smack the wrench with a hammer.
Can someone help with the wrench sizes for both the nuts?
What size of that bearing cage ?
The upper cage faces down or up?
He messed up it is down
What tool you use to tighten and loosen the stem on the handlebar of a bike?
Hex wrench. Unsure of actual size but probably metric.
can i use a modern fork on a thread headset? then put a threadless stem on top to lock it?
Neeko Knight you can but only if the fork has a 1” diameter, most modern forks are 1 1/8. Instead you could use an older fork then buy a headset adapter which allows you to use a normal stem
Top lock nut stuck on older bike and no force moves it. Rust or fused metal?
Rust
@@natearellano4919 So can I use some acid like phosphoric with zinc or I will have to cut it with dremel?
I did all these steps and my headset still won’t come out, I even soaked the inside with WD 40 to try to get any rust out and lubricate it. What do I do then?
PB Blaster works WAY better than WD40 to free up rusted parts.
@@QxiMichelangelo www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B07DP9Q6P9/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1QZ4NO64DQNI6&dchild=1&keywords=pb+blaster+penetrating+oil&qid=1593650403&sprefix=pb+blaster%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-7
What type of grease are you using?
TooMuchGrease™
Lithium grease should be fine.
My unit is just like yours... one small issue though, Tange passage 1 inch headset triple sealed caged
bearing, after install turning feels sticky, if I make it any looser
fork will jiggle, I know I have the seals and bearing direction in
right, it's deffinately the seals, anyone help?
+Brian Baldino new bearings or old? I had that too and took it back apart, thoroughly cleaning the bearing then regrease and button back up. also possible you dislodged some crud on the races (clean those too).
I just use some generic red auto bearing grease, probably a little heavier than some better bearing grease. it doesn't feel nimble as before, so I might have too much in there, but it feels smooth. Bearing grease thins out over time, so if all is clean and not loose or over tightened you'll be ok with the feel after a couple rides
turned out I did have the seals on wrong on the head set, figured it out within a day so now damage was done. But now my jockey wheels are really rattling, probably have the guide pulley mixed up with the tension pulley, always something man. Thanks for your help! Really Appreciated!