Rear Spring Replacement & Shock Bushing Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ย. 2024
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This video shows how to replace your rear shocks and spring coils on a 3rd Gen Toyota 4runner but the procedure used would be similar on many other trucks as well. The stock bushings on the shocks were replaced with Poly-Urethane bushings.
*PARTS*
Toyota Rear Springs #48231-35210
www.toyotapart...
Energy Suspension Rear Shock Bushings 8.8102R
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*Mission Automotive Silicone Paste
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*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com...
*6 Ton Jack Stands
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*Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chock (This is just one. I recommend buying two) amzn.to/3lNC3MG
*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set
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*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet
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*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set
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*1/2” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set
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*1/2” Drive Breaker Bar - 12” Long
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*Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set
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*Allen Wrenches (Metric and SAE)
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*CDI 1/2" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench
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*CDI 3/8" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench
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Gear Wrench Flex Head Ratcheting Wrenches
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Thank you for posting all your great videos. I have used several of them to perform upgrades on my 4runner. Today I placed 5100's on the rear and will be installing 6112's later this week
You're welcome Aaron. Glad you're getting some good use out of our videos. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
...hey Tim...finally got around to doing this on my 2000 4Runner 2WD with 233K miles....original shocks and springs. Back end was squatting pretty bad. Got to where I was hitting the bump stops with the slightest dip in the road. Your video was very helpful....I removed the springs by using the technique described by Rick Wolverton in the comment section and using the "pumpkin" as a pivot point and two floor jacks...I did have to disconnect the sway bar end links, but not the panhard bar.....the holding nut at the top of the shocks were both quite difficult, esp. the passenger side where the tail pipe restricted access....I used the flex head wrench you recommended and a chain strap wrench around the top of the shock...spun the shock with the strap wrench with the flex head resting against the frame....worked great....I replaced with Moog 81041 set....and one coil was about one inch longer than other...put it on drivers side of course. New shocks are KYB KG54317....now the rear end has been raised 3 inches and my 4Runner drives like new....I am a happy DIYer knowing the job was done right and I saved a little money....thanks again for a great video....
Hey Ken, glad you were successful getting your rear suspension refreshed. It is a pretty cool feeling doing your own work. It sounds like you're enjoying it and that's great to hear. Happy Wrenching!
Great video as usual. To make it easier, to allow the axle to drop down a little further, I performed these things. Of course I have the rear end jacked up and sitting on floor stands, wheels off.
I disconnected the sway bar end links at the top where they connected to the frame. Timmy does this later in the video.
I placed my floor jack under the pumpkin just like Timmy. I gave the floor jack a couple pumps to move the axle up an inch or two paying attention to the brake line tension. Then I disconnected the bottom of the shocks and pushed them off their mounting bolts like Timmy. I also disconnected the pan hard bar on the passenger side. Not sure I needed to do this. I saw it done in another video. Its a little tricky reinstalling the bolt that holds the pan hard bar in place. The holes didn't line up.
So my trick is to get my other floor jack and place it under the right shock mount and raise it up. The floor jack under the pumpkin acts as a fulcrum (pivot point) so the pumpkin doesn't move and the brake line doesn't get stressed. I did lower the jack under the pumpkin as much as I felt safe doing. Once your pumpkin jack is in place don't move it anymore.
As I raise up the right side the left side drops. Notice the pumpkin doesn't move so the brake line doesn't get stretched. Check to see if the left spring can be removed after a couple pumps. Keep raising the right side until you can remove the left spring. Don't go crazy. I had no problem removing the left spring with room to spare doing this.
Once I got the left spring out I lowered the second floor jack, the one under the right shock mount, and put it under the left shock mount and repeated the process until I was able to remove the right spring. I installed the new right spring and lowered the left side until the right spring was in place. Be careful here because if you have alot of space at the top where the spring contacts the fame it could drift out of the top mounting bed. I used a piece of string tied to the spring and then the frame to hold the spring in place while I lowered the opposite side. I kept checking the spring making sure it was in the correct position as I slowly lowered the jack (not the pumpkin jack). It's only me. No help so I have to improvise.
Once the right spring was in I brought the floor jack from the left side to the right side and repeated the process for the left spring.
I had to use my second floor jack to manipulate the axle up and down on each side to reattach the shocks, end links and panhard bar. Final step was to lower and remove the floor jack holding the pumpkin.
Thanks Timmy!!
Ya know why Timmy doesn't show tightening the top nuts of the shock? Because if I watched just how challenging the driver side is, I may have thought twice and had my mechanic to do it. LOL Seriously, it's the most challenging part of the installation with no short cuts or creative solutions. A little time, patients and a whole lot of cursing the Toyota engineers. I did, however, purchase a set of ratcheting wrenches in preparation to take this job on... $50 well spent. Mad respect Timmy.
You're welcome Brother!. The right tool can make a difficult job a little easier and lessen the amount of cursing and frustration. A ratcheting box end wrench is a serious savior for the rear shocks.
Between the top shock nut wrench tip and the usual good advice, this saves me an insane amount of time... Thanks!
No problem 👍
- Sean
Thank you for another great video. I just finished my Bilstein 5100 shock and OME spring install on the rear of my third gen 4Runner. You're not kidding, that top nut is ridiculous. I think I know why you didn't record yourself 🤬. It took me close to an hour and a half to get both of them installed. On to the front!!
You're welcome. Yeah, If I showed myself tightening that top shock nut, the video would have been way longer. Good luck with the front.
Just swapped out the rear springs on my ‘02 for the ‘99s; gained an inch which is what I wanted. Your video was a big help, however I did need my bottle jack to drive the axel down further to fit the springs. I think this is the third video of yours I’ve used and will be using many more; thanks.
Good to hear our videos are helping you out Dana. Happy Wrenching!
Throwing in some Bilstein and OME springs soon thanks for the video! Getting those 17 mm wrenches because every time it’s such a pain!
You're welcome Chase and good luck with the job. Yeah, those flex head ratcheting wrenches make a big difference getting those rear shocks out and the new ones in.
HERO OF TOYOTA 4RUNNER
💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻 good job thank you for the video
Thanks and you're very welcome.
Such a small world. I used to work for the Mazda/subaru dealership right across the street from camelback Toyota.
We were using Camelback Toyota for our parts needs for a while. Now we just use a local dealership in San Jose that gives me a discount.
I follow all your videos for the repairs on me dad's 95 series Prado.
Nice to hear Hugo.
I replaced the stock rears yesterday with extended travel 5100s from a 4th gen. Man was that a nightmare. Bottom mount angles downward and the top mount you already know what a nightmare it is lol. I had to slim down one of the rubber bushings to make the shocks fit. I also bottomed out the top lock nut Fingers crossed she holds though. Feels like I did something wrong. I used toytec 3 inch lift coils but I’m still worried the springs will pop out at full droop. Hopefully the extended bump stops I got and the sway bar will be enough to hold them in. Rear is something like a 3 inch lift over stock now.. not too crazy but definitely a huge difference.
I think you'll be fine. As long as the bump stops are the right height, you won't pop a spring out. Bottoming out the lock nut for the shock doesn't sound right. Maybe you shouldn't have slimmed the bushings down. I know the struggle is real getting the nut started on the shock stud, but a trick is to compress the bushings first with the nuts and washers before installing the shock into the frame to get the bushings smashed down a bit so you can get the nut started on the top.
Thanks. My 13 yr old son and I knocked these out. Thanks for the help.
That’s awesome! Teach them young, even if they won’t be making auto mechanics their profession, it’s still good to learn these skills so they can understand what’s involved and possibly save a lot of money if you do it yourself. Thanks for stopping by to share your success story with knocking these our whole also teaching your son something new. What’s next on your list?
@@TimmyTheToolman he’s certain that he wants to be a mechanic and wants to learn as much as possible. This rig will be his soon. He’s very passionate about anything with an engine and wheels.
I did this and had to unbolt panhard, just one bolt helped as I was alone. I like the energy bushings
Unbolting the panhard bar does make it easier for sure.
Thank you for posting this, after watching this video and a few others I replaced my shocks and springs. By the way I am not a mechanic in any way shape or form, is a mater of fact I really hate working on cars, I just hate paying for something I can do myself. Thank you again.
Hey Dave, glad our video helped you out. I have a feeling the more you wrench, the less distaste you'll have for it. But, I guess auto mechanics isn't for everyone. I really like the challenge and sense of accomplishment that comes with fixing my own vehicles not to mention the HUGE money savings.
I have used Tim's videos for everything. He is the man!!
Great video as always Timmy and Sean. I change all my shocks on my 04 Toyota pickup. I paint them red, and put som White Toyota stickers on them😁 look more expencive🤣 with your videos, It is easy to pimp my ride😎
Sounds like a nice Shock Paint and Sticker Mod. Good job pimping your ride. Don't forget the fuzzy dice hanging from your rearview mirror.
Hello Tim, I have a problem I've never ran into before. I replaced my rear shocks on my 98 4runner and I have a 14mm deep socket stuck on the upper nut on the shock. It didn't get stuck on the other side when I tightened it. You wouldn't believe what I've tried already, what a nightmare! I think what I'm going to have to do is actually Cut into the fender liner with the Sawzall Metal Blade just enough to get in there with something and get that socket off there. The fender liner is real thin so it won't be any problem cutting it and I can always just rivet a patch back on it. This is crazy! Tim your videos are great! Thanks Tim.
Have you tried clamping onto the socket with a vice grips and then try to wiggle it off the nut? That's pretty weird it got stuck on there.
@@TimmyTheToolman I tried that and tried and tried that I'm so frustrated. I guess I can leave the socket on there, but I hate to do things that way and my dad was a diesel mechanic and he raised us sons with wrenches and tools.
@@b50richard How about heating up the socket with a butane torch. The metal will expand a bit and maybe you can pry it off then.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you, Tim, I was thinking about that and I'll try that. I bet it'll work. I'm sure appreciative of your help. I'll keep you posted.
@@b50richard Hope it works.
Timmy, thanks for all the videos.Very thorough, yet concise, and always providing the torque specs helps those of us particular about it. I wanted to ask how you like the Bilsteins, I have KYB Gas adjust on the fronts, and am about to change out the rear shocks. Comsidering Billsteins, or the adjustable Rancho RS9000XL's. I like the idea of the adjustability to match the ride the front provides, and to stiffen it up when loaded or towing. With those factors in mid would you recommend the Billstein 4600, ot the adjustable Rancho 9000's (I believe the Rancho's come with Poly Bushings included). Thanks again for all the 4runner Videos, very helpful for us average joe & Joeettes:)
Let me begin by saying I'm not a suspension expert. But, from what I've learned by being a part of forums and doing other research is people are usually more concerned with their spring choice when it comes to the weight they will be carrying or towing. I guess an adjustable shock absorber may lessen how much of a bounce you'll get in the rear but I don't think it's going to do anything for you in how much sag you're going to get based off how much of a load you're carrying.
Aftermarket spring manufacturers will make different load springs for different applications. If you just want to lift your truck but don't plan on carrying much additional weight, you go with a spring that's rated at a lower weight. If you plan on installing a heavy aftermarket bumper and plan on carrying a bunch of gear in the back to go camping or whatever, you'll want a spring that is stiffer so it won't sag under all that additional weight. However, the trade off for using a heavier rated spring is now you'll have a rougher ride when you aren't carrying a bunch of gear.
There are air bags/spring combos too and maybe that might be something to consider. You boost the air pressure when towing and then lessen when you're not. I know people with big truck and tow big trailers use a system like this.
I wish I could be more helpful. If it were me, I'd probably buy stiffer springs and consider pairing them up with an adjustable shock like the Rancho ones you're looking at. Old Man EMU makes a rear spring that's stiffer and will add a slight lift to the rear. With a positive rake (rear end higher than the front end), it will allow you to run more level when towing or carrying heavy loads.
Timmy; thank you for another great video 👍
Keep up the good work 👌 and I’ll see you in the next one! 👏👏👏
You're welcome.
So at around 15:00, you put the metal washer on top of the rubber bushing. I noticed that when going over bumps this causes a loud noise from the washer hitting the frame of the truck. I called a suspension supplier and they don’t recommend washer to frame. They said the rubber bushings should sandwich the frame so you don’t get any noise.
That's how the OEM shocks are set up on the rear of the 3rd Gen 4runner. If the top nut is tight enough, there should be no movement to allow that washer to make noise. You need to tighten the top nut more until you see that the bushings are being compressed.
Thanks for the video. At 11:40 I had to see if I’m putting in my Bushings correctly. I’m in the process of putting bilsten 6112’s in the front and 5100’s in the rear of my Mall crawler.
Glad you found the video helpful Daniel. Good luck fixing up your mall crawler.
I have a Land Cruiser series 90 Prado. I did my rear struts last year and had exactly the battle described getting the top nuts done up. Then I heard some models have a hole to access the top nut that can be got at from inside the vehicle. I am not saying this is all models and it may be that some people have taken to vehicles with a hole saw to make sure they never have to suffer this nightmare again. Regardless sure enough I was looking up under and around the rear shock mounts last week and I see a hole up and slightly offset from the shock mount. So next time I will be figuring out to get to those from inside. Just a thing to think about and look at before hours of suffering commences. You might get lucky and find you can get to them from above!
Good to know Damien. When I discovered the ratcheting flex-head box-end wrench, the upper shock mount became tolerable to deal with. When I installed Bilstein 4600s in the rear of my 2000 4runner, I used an open end wrench and had to reset the wrench over and over and over until I thought my hand, arm and shoulder would fall off. Definitely not fun.
Thanks Tim
your video is very helpful I really like what you do Thanks again
You're welcome Charlie. Good to hear you found our video helpful. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
THANK YOU
You're welcome.
Thanks guys I’ll check it out
sounds good Al!
Great Video! Thanks for showing!
Hey Timmy getting ready to Change shocks and springs was wondering what spring compressor you used so I can get the same one thank you Sean great video
you don't really need spring compressors to do the rear springs but if you wanted to do the front shocks, here is the link
*Strut Spring Compressors amzn.to/33fhpJB
Great video. I need to do this and now I have a thorough demonstration of the whole procedure. I ordered the springs but, I really want those Bilsteins- may I have the part # for those please sir?
Thank you in advance!
This link will give you the part numbers for the front and rear Bilstein 4600 shocks.www.bilsteinlifts.com/shop/toyota-4runner/1996-2002/shocks-96-02-toyota-4runner/bilstein-4600-front-rear-shocks-1996-2002-toyota-4runner-4wd/?gclid=CjwKCAjwmZbpBRAGEiwADrmVXty_DSBPQMi99sl4nhVxeZc7RAhlwPK2sSRJBi9gr7iTdm7W_XM6qBoCUBkQAvD_BwE
00:40 part number 48231-35210
I wonder if the 3rd Gen has a rear Torsion bolt that would help with the lifting the Rear to level the Vehicle before changing the Springs. I believe the 2nd Gen has the Torsion bolt.
No such thing on a 3rd Gen 4runner.
@@TimmyTheToolman Tks for confirming Tim, I have to do something about my "98 4R rear springs and just wandering if i could adjust it if it had the Torsion bolts first. On the rear seems to be a common problem.
Hi Timmy! Thanks for the awesome video, it’s really helpful! I have a 2000 4Runner SR5 4WD 5-speed with 16” wheels. Multiple dealers tell me that 48231-35210 is the PN for the rear springs but I think this PN is for the 1999 tall springs as you said and installed in the video. Do you know the PN for the 2000 model? Or a PN that would give me the same height and ride as the 2000?
I’m looking to keep the factory stock height and ride. Thanks!!
I don't know that part number for the 2000 rear springs.
Thanks anyway Timmy. I appreciate the reply. Cheers!
Hello Timmy, very kind of you for posting this videos.
Im on my way to put the same configuration, 99 tall spring with B4600! I just want to ask you how smooth ride is?
I'm not running the 99 springs anymore, but they are very smooth. It's a stock feeling ride.
Hey Tim - are the OEM replacement. springs you show here side specific?? Thanks a ton!
They are side specific. The taller one goes on the driver side to compensate for the weight of the fuel tank.
Hey guys, is it true that one coil (drivers side) may be longer than the passengers side to compensate for the weight of the gas tank??? Thanks! Loving this video!
Yes, that's true. Quite often the rear spring set you buy will have one slighter taller than the other and it goes on the driver side because of the weight of the gas tank and fuel.
After how many miles should you replace the springs?
How many miles did your truck have that you lost almost 1.5”?
Thanks
The rig only had around 140k miles. The springs I used as replacements were for a 99 year and that year had apprx. 1 inch taller spings than the other 3rd Gen years. So, the springs didn't really sag 1.5", more like .5". Miles, time and the amount of cargo weight you've been carrying are the factors that will determine how much the springs will sag. You replace the springs when your rear end sags lower than the front end and you can no longer carry the amount of cargo you want. I currently run OME 861 springs in the rear of my 98 that gives me a positive rake (rear higher than the front - 3 inch lift in the front and 5.5 inches in the rear). I have it this way so I can carry the weight I want to carry without the rear end sagging. For my 2000, I ditched the 99 springs and went to OME 906 springs which now give me 2 inches of lift in the rear and they are stiffer so they can handle more weight.
Have to replace the bushings on my rear Bil 5100 Tundra shocks for my 98 4Runner. Would those shocks bushings fit as well?? Thanks Tim!!
@@rallypoint1 I can't say for sure since I've never installed them on 5100 Bistein shocks, but I would assume they would work out just fine.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the fast response. Ya wasn’t totally sure either but I am going for it!! I tend to overthink stuff sometimes. LOL
Thanks again Tim! See ya on YT and T4R brother!!🤙🏻
@@rallypoint1 You're welcome! Let us know how it works out.
great job fellas!!
Thanks Brendon. We're glad you approve.
Sir have questions for you in my 3rd gen I was getting shocked when I touched the truck door , can you let me know what's going on
Well, the first thought it's just static electricity that's built up on your body and clothes and when you touch the metal door, you get shocked. If it's not static electricity, you might have an improperly grounded circuit inside the door. When you touch the door, you're becoming the ground and you get shocked.
Great video as I need to replace both coils and shocks on my 2003 4Runner Limited. The Xreas finally failed and decided to go to Coil overs for the front and Moog 81045 Coils and Bilstein 4600's for the rear. Can't find to much info on this conversion as far as mounting the coils and the local garage wants 4 hours to do the job. Trying to find out the factory labor times for R&R shocks and coils but nobody tells you. Any hints?
Thanks
I don't know what the factory labor rates would be. You could do the job yourself pretty easily though. If you're replacing your front spring and shock with another coilover, it's just a matter of getting the top nuts off, lower shock bolt out, removing the old coilover and replacing it with the new one. The tips we share in the video would work for your application as well. Loosening the lower control arm cam adjuster bolts a bit will help you move manipulate the arm to get the lower shock bolt out and back in. You'd want to make some match marks on the cam sleeve and frame just in case you loosened it too much and your LCA arm alignment changed. When you get the coilover in, you can lower the vehicle to the ground and re-torque the cam adjuster bolts.
For the rear, you could use the tips we share in this video to replace the springs and shocks. I don't know if the 4th Gen shocks have the same upper mount that makes it hard to get the upper nut off and hopefully they changed it for the 4th Gens. For the rear springs, disconnecting the sway bar, disconnecting the panhard bar(lateral control arm), and possibly disconnecting the brake line and ABS lines so you can get the rear end drooped enough to get the old springs out and new ones in. Our video obviously isn't the only resource so you can search for other videos that will help you get the job done.
Hey just a heads up u don't have to twork the wheels that much u just have to do a Stat pattern I like to do a triangle pattern then go a circle all the way around I think its pretty bad to twork them down that much
Are you talking about the toquing of the wheel lug nuts? I'm having trouble figuring out what you're referring to.
@@TimmyTheToolman yeah sorry should have been more specific yeah for the wheel I work at a discount tire but they taught us it's more than a enough to twork the lugs twice over twerking isn't bad but just messes with studs just a heads up
Do you have a recommendation for front bushing replacement parts?
Unfortunately no I don't. Maybe Toyota still sells them and you can get them from your local dealer.
Hello Timmy. I replaced my rear springs to a OME 2891’s. It made a big differnce on the stance of my 97 T4R. Do you know how much droop will it become once it settles? Thanks.
I don't know how much they will settle from the initial installation.
I installed some bilstein 5100s on my 2002 3rd gen and in April 2019 and I’m leaning to the left in the back now. I didn’t see a shock labeled left or right and that was my guess that maybe I installed them flip flopped but I just started getting that lean about 3 weeks ago
Did you just replace shocks or did your replace springs as well?
Timmy The Toolman replaces shocks and I put 1.5 spring spacers with the stock springs. No new springs
@@wessimmons9002 Interesting. Aftermarket rear springs quite often have 2 different lengths. The driver side is a little higher to make up for the weight of the fuel tank and fuel in it. But, if you only added spacers and they were all the same height, I don't see how this would change anything. Is there any chance one spacer was a little taller than the other and you didn't notice it?
Timmy The Toolman Yesh! That’s what’s got my head spinning on this stuff! I losened all my links last night and moved them, maybe they were locked up and tightened back down and now today it doesn’t seem to lean as much or maybe it’s just my drive way that’s playing game with me
i put the Moog 81041 Coils which are apparently OE and these same Bilstein shocks on my 1998 4runner and my ride height still seems a little low... i kinda think those moog coils arent as stout as they should be
MOOG eh? not sure about all shocks/coils on the market & how they compare to each other but the tried & true shock/coil setups seem to be the tundra coils up front with the 5100's.
Timmy The Toolman interesting. I was referring to these in my rear, not up front. The reviews on those Moog rear coils are good besides on guy reporting sagging after 5000miles. Hmmmmm
Hey Timmy,
Thanks so much for the videos. I’m going to replace my rear shocks with OEM. The current shocks are Gabriel Ultras (generic brand). When doing the front shocks the generic hardware did not mate well with the OEM shocks. Will this be an issue on the rears as well? I’ve been digging for a while and no one else seems to have this issue. Maybe I’m over thinking it. I’m going to get the energy suspension bushings. I just don’t want any issue with the retaining clips not working. Thanks!
There are differences in the hardware from one shock company to the next. I can't give you a solid answer on this. You might find you'll have to get OEM hardware for the shocks.
Hi Timmy, so i replaced 4 shocks/struts on my 2000 4runner and noticed when i would drive at a slow speed on dips where water runs down the street, felt like i didn't even change the shocks out. You think springs are dead? I also notice a slight sag on rear driver. Now i have a 97 4runner and did the 5100 shock with ome rear springs and front adjustable shock with original spring and that trucj is leveled. By the way i put 4600s on the 2000 runner trimg to keep kinda stock but looking at this vid to see if the rear spring has a slight higher on the rear driver. Ome has one a lil taller then passenger side to even the truck out
Are you saying the ride is rough even after you installed the new shocks? The 4600s have been riding pretty good for me. My rig now has around 190k. My front springs are original and I now have OME 906s in the rear that give me a 2" lift. I like the positive rake the 906s give me and they are a little stiffer so I can load down the back and not be sagging.
@@TimmyTheToolman the 2000 4runner only have new 4600 and im guessing original springs. But im thinking the springs are shot. Has a small lean on driver rear. Thats weird that you put 906 ome on rear. Aren't they for a 2.3 inch lift? I have the 906 springs on my 97 4runner with 5100s front are adjustable to match the new higher rear 2 ish lift. What did you do for the front when you put 906 srpings in the back? To level it
@@damacknificent151 Well, maybe your springs are worn out. My truck isn't level and I want it that way. When I take camping/road trips in my 2000, I load down with a bunch of gear and it keeps my rear end from sagging lower than the front. If I was sitting level all the time and then loaded down with gear, my rear end would sag. I've done the same with my 98 4runner. I have a 3 inch lift in the front and a 5.5 inch lift in the rear. When I load down with a bunch of gear and tools for a wheeling trip, I'm sitting level. The positive rake look isn't for everyone but I like it.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the reply Timmy.
Awesome. Got my new springs on order! Have you ever done the pan-hard bar bushings? Any idea if that thing has weird tension on it like when you do the rear lower control arms?
I haven't replaced the bushings on the OEM panhard bar but I assume it's probably not hard to do provided you have a press at your disposal. The panhard bar probably does get some added stress to it when you start disconnecting components like the control arms but it's not anything the panhard bar can't handle.
Hi Timmy help ..the question is ..can I used the 15 inches rims on this toyota??I get rims and tires on junk yard my 4runner have 16 inches rims...
Well, it depends on the rims. You'll need the correct bolt pattern and whether the rims will fit over the front brake calipers. We've never tried it.
If you're not replacing the bushings on the shock and are just doing the springs, can't you just undo the bottom bolt on the shock and leave that tricky nut on top untouched?
Yes, you could do that. Getting the shock slid back over the mounting post on the axle can be a little difficult because it's angles down but you can get it. Lubricate the rubber or poly bushing with some silicone grease and that will help you get the lower shock mount connected. If the bushings get really pinched, slide the shock off and try again. Once it looks like it will go on without damaging the bushings, you can tighten the bolt to get everything cinched up.
Nice vid! I hear you switched out those old black bushings with the red ones because you didn't liek the black ones. Are there any other reasons you switch them out?? Thanks!
The black bushings were fine. I just decided to swap them out for some poly ones for the heck of it since I was replacing my rear springs and had to disconnect the shocks from the lower mounts to do it.
Timmy The Toolman okay gotcha! Thanks man
Thanks for this video! I am on the fence if I should change out my rear springs. 200 dollars is a lot of money just to take a chance, Did it improve ride quality? How much distance btwn axle and bump stops are you now with new springs? I got about an inch. So pretty sure I am sagging. I always seem to get a knocking coming when my rear axle goes over a bump. I truly appreciate the videos you post :)
Wish my car was living in the rust free states =[
+Bardia Ghajari I didn't measure the distance between the axle and bump stop. I did end up gaining an inch of lift after the new springs settled. I don't think I've ever felt the bump stops bottoming out on my rig. The springs that I replaced were probably still in pretty good shape. Was it worth the money for 1" of lift. I think so. I don't really need a huge lift. Was just looking for a little more without changing the rear end geometry. I often carry lots of gear in the back and my back end sags when I do. I probably could have gone 2 inches and I may do that one day in the future. The ride quality is excellent, but it was good beforehand too.
+Timmy The Toolman Thank you for the reply! you really seem to baby your car :)
+Bardia Ghajari Well, I'm definitely giving this vehicle more care than I have done with others. In the past, I would have never replaced a radiator and balljoints as preventative maintenance. But, like I've said before, I bought into the fear of the balljoint failure and the failure of the trans cooler in the radiator. I've always taken pretty good care of my vehicles mechanically by doing all the recommended preventative maintenance. Aesthetically, that's a different story. My 99 Subaru looks like crap because I rarely wash it anymore. But, 322,000 miles and going strong. I am trying to keep the 4runner paint in better shape and since it's not garaged, I put a cover on it to reduce the sun damage.
+Bardia Ghajari I do feel lucky to live where I'm at every time I see people posting pics or videos of their trucks and I see how much corrosion they have under their rigs. That would make every job harder having to deal with rusted bolts.
Hey just changed my springs out but I did not have the rubber piece at the top that looks like an upside down traffic cone. Should I have one?
That cone is basically an extra bump stop under full compression situations. You can run without those though. Just make sure you have the proper length bump stops on your frame so under full compression the bump stops hit before the shocks bottom out.
How did you press the old lower bushings out? I have new 5100s I put on that are being held by a heavy duty bolt, but I just ordered the proper bushings so it will fit on the lower shock rod and need to get the original bushings out.
For the rear shocks, the lower bushings aren't pressed in. You just loosen and remove the lower shock bolt, pull the shock off the post mount, remove the rubber bushings by hand or maybe use a flathead screwdriver to pry them out, push the polyurethane ones in, push the shock back onto the mount and bolt it back up.
Front shocks have pressed in lower bushings. if you needed to remove those, you'd either have to have a press or do it some other DIY way with a threaded rod and the right press sleeves, sockets, or a pieces of pipe. One socket or pipe piece to drive out the bushing and another equal to the diameter of the lower shock bushing hole to receive the bushing as you press it out. I don't know if that makes sense but that's the best I can explain it.
Hi, I have a 2008 4runner and I bought a 2.5-inch OME suspension, I want my 4runner to be level front and back since it comes a little lower in the front part of the factory, which I should buy to make it level, I hope you can help me, thanks you!
The most affordable way is to add spacers to the front coilovers. It's a spacer that goes between the frame mount and the coilover. But, the reason why trucks and SUVs come from the factory with a positive rake (rear higher than the front) is for the times you load down the rear with gear for a trip. When you load down the cargo area, the suspension is going to sag and probably bring you back to around level but will depend on the weight you're carrying. If start off level and then add weight to the back, now you will be sagging in the rear and your headlights will be sticking up blinding oncoming motorists. If you plan on taking trips with your rig and plan on carrying a fair amount of gear, I'd leave it as is and not level it out.
will these springs fit a 2001 4Runner Limited 4wd ?
Yes
Hi Timmy, since you replaced the spring coils, why didn't you also replace the old dampers (rubber boots sitting on top of spring coils)? Has the change improved the ride of your 4-runner? I'm debating whether I should change the original spring coils, dampers and shocks on my 2003 Sequoia, which has 262,000 miles.
The damper you're referring to is actually called a Spring Seat. Unless this shows some signs of damage, I don't think people need to replace this part.
I couldn't really say my ride improved. I think my rear springs were in decent shape. I chose the 99 springs mainly to get a slight lift (1 inch) in the rear of my truck. After the job, I wish I would have gone with a spring with a little more lift and stiffer because I regularly carry a lot of weight in the back going camping and mountain biking and my rear end sags a little. Old Man EMU makes a spring that would give me around a 2" lift in the rear and be a little stiffer.
If you're on original springs and shocks at 262,000 miles, you'll definitely notice an improvement in the ride. At the very least replace the shocks. If you're suspension is sagging a bit in the rear, maybe replace the rear springs and leave the fronts alone.
Thanks for your response.
You're welcome. If you have any more questions, just ask.
Thanks for the quick reply one more question I want to get some OME 883 springs so I can put on a aftermarket bumper and some blistein 5100s What company can you recommend to buy them from thanks again guys
Optoffroad - use the promo code “Sicmods” for a discount
Timmy, putting '99 talls on my 2001 limited today (just bought it last month, so shocks/springs are old and rear sagging). My question is, should I put new shocks on at the same time, that will accommodate a lift eventually? The current shocks look tired anyway, just wondering which shocks would work with the 99 coils AND, say, OME 906's if I lift and ditch the '99s..thank you!
Hey Kevin, I have 906's on the rear of my 2000 3rd Gen and still using stock length shocks, Bilstein 4600s. The 906's will lift your rear end 2 inches and are a bit firmer so you will have a positive rake, rear higher than the front, but they are great for being able to load the rear down with gear and not sag for a road trip. I probably should have switched to Bilstein 5100's but I have no problems and I've been running my rig like this for quite some time. I do think 5100's would be a better choice though and that's what I would suggest you go with.
Hi Timmy I can't seem to find the top rubber boots for the coils :/, I have a 1991 4runner and my isolators are torn, if you can't help with anything it would be appreciated!!
Try calling Camelback Toyota and ask to talk to someone in online sales. They are usually pretty helpful and their prices are very competitive. If they can't help you, I'd just bite the bullet and go to your local dealership and have them look up the part for you. You'll pay more for the part but at least you'll get what you need.
I am working on my shocks right now and don't have the larger washer that goes on the outside of the shock in your hand at 13:47. Where would I get a couple? Its missing on both sides.
You might be able to get them through Toyota. Check with your local dealer. A more affordable way though is to visit a local wrecking yard that has a 3rd Gen 4runner and pull the washers you need off of it provided the rear shocks are still there. When visiting a wrecking yard, sometimes you get lucky and sometimes you don't. But, big savings if you can find your parts at a wrecking yard as opposed to paying online or retail prices.
I'm planning on installing Whiteline lower spring pads on the rear coils on my 2000 4Runner this weekend. I can remove the lower shock mount and the sway bar link without removing the wheels. As long as I keep sufficient slack in the brake line I was wondering if removing the wheels would be optional. Thanks.
Well, you might not get enough droop to get the spring out with the wheels on. You would have to have the vehicle really high on jack stands to make this work. Why not just remove the wheels? Removing wheels is easy.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yes, your right. I had not thought about that. I was thinking the extra weight might help drop the axle lower but, you are right in that I would not be able to get the vehicle high enough. It's nice to have somebody to bounce ideas off of. Thanks.
@@TimmyTheToolman I almost forgot. Whiteline and Nolathane are owned by the same company (Redranger) and in Australia they are considered to be effectively the same.
@@marksimcoe4105 This is good to know. Thanks for sharing this. I'm just wondering why I've never heard anyone talk about installing Nolothane bushings on their rigs.
@@marksimcoe4105 You're welcome.
I am confused, how were you able to free hand compress the shock?
Yes, you can compress a shock absorber with your physical strength. They aren't that hard to compress.
Hi Timmy , are the front shocks 4600s Bilstein as well as the rear. And would you recommend them for off-roading?
Hey George, Yes, both front and rear. I take my rig off-road and it performs fine but I'm not doing anything hi-speed or too technical. The Bilstein 4600s are basically an equivalent to the OEM shocks that originally came with the rig. They are meant for non-lifted rigs. If you have a suspension lift, the Bilstein 5100s would be a better choice.
Thanks Timmy
@@georgeguzman9290 You're welcome George.
Timmahhhh - your videos are awesome. I have a question and maybe I’m overthinking this. I have a 1999 limited 2 wheel drive. No lift kit or anything like that. I bought it 6 months ago with 265k and I’m now around 275k, so I’m just going to replace all 4 shocks. I wasn’t going to worry about replacing any springs, but noticing slight rear sag I now want to. Am I okay just replacing the rear springs or should I go ahead and replace all 4 springs? Also, will using the 99 talls on the rear give me too much rake if I don’t replace the fronts? Just want my ride to look factory. Thanks.
I’m using plain old KYB Gas-A-Just shocks for both front and rear.
You would be ok just replacing the rear springs. A little positive rake is a good thing because when you load down with gear, you won't be sagging in the rear.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks, been studying your vids for the big job tomorrow! Finally got all my parts. Decided to stop being a cheap ass and replace all 4 springs as well as front suspension mounts 😁
@@warddoyouralgebra Good luck with the job.
Hi Timmy, I have just ordered the Bilstein 5100's and OME 2906 for my rear suspension replacement. Do you think a deep socket would reach the rear shock top nut? Or, do you think I should buy a set of the flex head ratchets like you used? Thanks man, love your videos.
Hey Darren, you can use a ratchet and socket to get the old shock nut off. The Bilstein shaft has an allen head so you can hold the shaft from turning while you get a box end or open end wrench onto the nut. If you don't hold the shaft from spinning, you'll never get the nut tight. You get the 5mm allen wrench in place and then turn it until it's wedged against the frame or body. Trust me that a flex head ratcheting box end wrench will make this job tolerable. If you don't, you're going to get very tired reseting an open end wrench over and over again. I know this from experience because I did it the hard way on my 2000 3rd Gen. If I knew flex head ratcheting box end wrenches existed, I would have bought one because it was not a fun job doing it with an open end wrench.
Glad you like our videos. Good luck with the job.
Thanks for the info Timmy. Very insightful as I am about to take on this same job soon. I think I will take your advice and get the flex head ratchet set before I attempt the job.
Darren, you will not regret owning a set of these wrenches. I use them all the time.
I've got a heavy 3rd gen (plate bumper front and back, sliders and Gobi rack). I currently have bilsteins in back with OME 890 coils. Do you have a recommendation on a shock to pair with the 891's if i step up to the heavier springs? I see OME has to shocks specifically valved for heavier loads which seem like a good idea. But im pretty happy with my bilsteins just wanted to get your thoughts on the best rear suspension components. Thanks!
Hey Zeb, there's so many options but I'll tell you what I'm running. I currently have Radflo shock with external reservoirs paired with OME 861 springs which gives me 5.5" of lift in the back and a positive rake. They are a stiff spring that can handle a lot of weight so when I load down with gear for a trip, I'm not sagging in the rear. You might want to do some more research and maybe ask a question on T4R.org regarding this. I know there are many threads on this kind of subject so you might find the answer you're looking for in an existing forum thread.
@@TimmyTheToolman Perfect...yeah I'm looking to maintain a nice positive rake. It's now leveled I'm not happy with the handling. Thanks again for the info.
@@zh3717 You're welcome.
nice video. Thank you. j
Thanks and you're welcome.
Very nice vid, big salute to the firefighters you guys are heroes.
Was that topmost shock bushing cup factory or Bilstein? Looked a bit thin, might suggest hammer it flat over a large impact socket that fits inside the flat part of the concavity. Maybe add a similar size thick flat washer on top of it.
I have read Urethane bushes like Lithium grease, I have also read they like Silicon grease. How are they doing, and any noise or deformity?
Silicon lube on your rubber-to-spring mating/mounting surfaces will help them stay nice as well.
I got those same tires on my Pilot - excellent tires I must say.
Stay gold.
The upper bushing cups are Bilstein and yes they are thin. I wish I would have kept the original hardware that came with the OEM shocks. They were much beefier.
Bushings are holding up well and no noise. The only deformity is from the initial tightening and they bulge out a bit. I was just under the rig and they look good.
Are you a "The Outsiders" Movie fan? "Stay Gold Pony Boy."
I will be doing this soon once coils arrive in mail. I am considering trying to compress springs using two pieces of wood and some bolts...just a diy clamp made on the fly. Anything think that is a waste of time? ..put 2by4 short length into spring on towards one end and another one towards other end. have holes drilled for bolts and start tuning nuts! I imagine it will want to slip off coils at first but will get easier as it compresses..
Why try the wood route when you can rent spring compressors for free at many auto parts stores.
@@TimmyTheToolman because I didn't know they existed until after my comment
@@TimmyTheToolman also why rent one when I can make one for free in 5 minutes?
@@TheWeirdSide1 You should try out your idea because it sounds like you want to see how well it works.
Love your channel btw, not sure why you are trying to make me look stupid though. I'm well aware it might not work...hence, my original comment asking if anyone could see a bad outcome. Instead of your first comment which was passive agressive and unessecary snide, how about " that's an idea, but I can tell you from experience it probably won't work." Where do I send you a video of it working and my wallet not any less bulky? Haha, all good
Do you rcommend this set up for a 2002 Sr5 2wd with 189,000, I go camping with my gear and ice box it has a front brushguard and rear tail light brushguards. It's my daily driver everthing stock I just go on trails.
OME 906s might be a good choice for you. They will give you a 2 inch lift in the rear and are a little stiffer which will allow you to load down the cargo area without sagging.
48231-35210 P/N work on 2001 4runner 4x4? Like to keep stock height. She is sagging a bit in the rear after rebuilding the front end.
Yes, the springs we used in the video will work for any 3rd Gen 4runner.
Hello sir! Quick question, are those springs side specific like the OME 906?
No, they aren't side specific.
Hey Timmy I had OME 890 rear springs installed with KYB gasajust factory spec shocks. The 890s replaced Daystar 2in lift spacers, I wanted more lift so I went with OME. Problem is, I didn't get much lift at all. Do you think the KYBs are holding the springs back from getting maximum lift?
No, the shocks wouldn't hold the springs back unless they were grossly undersized. If that were the case, you would destroy those shocks very quickly.
@@TimmyTheToolman well it looks like the rear got a little taller after driving it for a while lol. Maybe my eyes were playing tricks on me but that rear end definitely looks taller now!!!
Hi Timmy , Do you have the part number for the rear shocks? you mentioned the part number for the spring coils.
They are Bilstein 4600s. Part number is #24-024518
Thank you so much. My truck is 002 SR5. I am thinking to change the rear shocks and coil springs. I am going to use the 1999 you used it. Why did you use the Poly-Urethane bushings? are they much better than the Bilsteins?
The rubber bushings that the Bilstein shocks come with are fine. Since I upgraded some other bushings on my rig to polyurethane, I thought I'd give these poly shock bushings a try. They were very affordable so I wasn't risking much money if they didn't work out that well.
Do you have the stock number for the lower shock bolt and the 2 washers?
No, we don't. You're best bet is just ordering it from your local dealer parts department.
Hey Tim, did you retorque after you loaded suspension?
It is best to torque the suspension components after the weight of the vehicle is on it's wheels. It's mainly for anything with a bushing so the bushing is locked down in a neutral position and isn't under torque just sitting there.
Hey Tim! Hoping you can help me out. I’m replacing my complete set on my 01 4Runner, and it seems the new set gives my front end a couple inch lift on its own. The set didn’t come with rear springs and I want it to be level. I have the 2wd version. Is there a specific rear spring I need to get to make it level?
What springs did you use in the front?
@@TimmyTheToolman I used a DTA complete oem style set. The front came with the coils already on the shock itself. Can’t say the car has ever seen replacement shocks and springs ever. The 4Runner body has 340k miles. New engine was put in before I got it, so I’d figure I’d fix it up and give it new life.
@@khaos2nd I'm finding it hard to believe that OEM replacement springs raised your front end 2 inches. That means your old springs were sagging pretty hard. I personally like OME 906 springs for the rear. They offer a 2 inch lift and are stiffer than OEM so you can carry more cargo weight and not sag. So, OME 906 springs are what I would suggest for you. If you want a level look, then the 906s might not be the way to go. New trucks and SUVs coming from the factory are set up with a slight positive rake for the reason I stated. It sucks when you load down with gear for a trip and your back end is sagging. But, when you're not loaded down, your rig will have a positive rake, rear higher than the front. Also know that springs will settle. So, the lift you're seeing right now in the front will lower a bit.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for advice Tim! I’ll look into those to see what’s best
@@khaos2nd You're welcome.
To replace air bags for springs coils on 2005 Toyota sequioa sr5 what you recomendation
We've never messed with air bags so not 100% sure what they entail. I'm assuming it's just a matter of treating it like a regular spring replacement with the additional step of disconnecting the air line to the bag. Once the spring is out, you pull out the old bag, put in the new one and get the spring back in.
@@TimmyTheToolman
Thanks for awnser but its not spring on rear just airbags and shock sepárate
@@fabianolalde6719 Oh, I see. We haven't dealt with a system like this so we wouldn't be much help to you. Hopefully you'll find a video that will help you out. Happy New Year!
@@TimmyTheToolman
Thanks happy New Years too
Hello,
New subscriber and new all stock 2002 4runner SR5 2WD owner here.
Looking to tow small cars 3,500-4,500 LBS and upgrading the rear springs/shocks as they sag under tow with my two wheel dolley. My truck has about 220,000 miles on it. What springs/shocks do you recommend to keep from sagging under load? Perferably aftermarket set up or supply part# link.
Thankyou
OME 906s are stiffer than stock and give around a 2 inch lift. Will they keep the rear end from sagging when you tow? I can't say for sure because I've never towed vehicles. But, if you go much stiffer than a 906, you will have a pretty harsh ride in the back when you're not towing. Some guys have installed air bags in their coil springs that they can air up when they are carrying a heavy load. I think an air bag system might be your best bet. If you don't want to do the air bag system, I'd try the OME 906 coil springs paired with Bilstein 5100 shocks. Good luck!
@@TimmyTheToolman where can I find a good budget friendly air bag system for the rear? Part # or website link?
@@ddemier Don't know buddy. This is something neither Sean nor I have researched. Your best bet might be asking this question on T4R.org in the 3rd Gen section of the forum.
@@TimmyTheToolman I really enjoy your videos. My sunroof is frozen shut. The motors work but the worm gears are frozen solid that open and retract the glass. Is there a known fix for this issue? I cannot find a replacment and I hear the grease toyota uses dries up over time and becomes rock hard. Any ideas?
@@ddemier I don't know of a fix for this. If it were me, I'd probably drop the headliner and pull it apart to see if I could get the motor out, lubricate the gears and hope it would work.
Are you fellow Arizonan?
No, we live in the People's Republic of California. For a time, we were using Camelback Toyota in Arizona to order parts from.
Can anyone help me? What rear coil springs can I put on to increase load capacity without getting ti much of a lift . I currently have kyb monomaxx shocks that are 20"1/4 fully extended. Please help .
Go with the OME 906s. They will give you a 2 inch lift in the back and they are stiffer than stock. They will enable you to load down the rear with gear for a trip and not sag. I have them on my 2000 and they are perfect. I'm running Bilstein 4600 shocks all around.
@@TimmyTheToolman will they work with kyb monomaxx shocks?
@@superclubhead1 If those KYB shocks are a replacement for OEM shocks, they will work.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thankyou so much for replying so quickly and for doing what you do!
@@superclubhead1 You're very welcome.
Do you recommend the Air Lift 1000?
I'm guessing this is an air bag lift system. I couldn't advise you on this purchase because I have absolutely no experience with them. I can say my buddy Jordan has used an air bag system for his 3rd Gen and it's worked pretty well for his needs.
I contacted Camelback toyota to order those rear springs and they quoted me 80 dollars more. How did get them so cheap?
Prices do change on products but that is a big increase. I just checked and the springs are $112/each so that would be $224/pair. I paid a total of $174/pair so how are paying $80 more? Maybe you are in Arizona and have to pay sales tax?
its ok to say hole, internal diameter lmao
Hi tim do you know what is the diff between the BILSTEIN 5100 vs the 4600?
Bilstein 4600 are an OEM replacement for stock height rigs. I have 4600's on my 2000 3rd Gen. But, I'm running OME 906 springs in the rear that give me a 2 inch lift and I have no issues with running the 4600's. The 5100's are supposedly for rigs with a mild lift 1-2". Depending on the rear springs you choose, you could probably use either shock.
@@TimmyTheToolman Ok thk, i was hopping to see how u took out the top nut, but ill find out when i do mine.
dang0088 da it’s difficult to show on camera but you kind of have to do it by feel. Get your ratcheting wrench in there and you might have to hold the shaft with some vice grips if it ends up spinning