Greetings directions Kurt it’s been a year since I first watch this video and commented and now I’ve got my Vallejo alternator and I’ve dropped the engine and transmission out of the car I’ve got my transmission with a Retired Porsche mechanic and I’m in the process of taking the engine apart but I’ve sheared off a fly wheel bolt and two bolts will not come off of the fly wheel. Thank you for your very informative videos.
Marion, Sorry to hear you are having issues. Did the spline drive strip? or did the actual bolt head break off? If the spline drive has stripped then you need to check the tool you are using is the correct size and is in good shape. If the heads are shearing off, which I must admit I have not seen before you are going to have a lot more work on your hands. You can apply some heat directly to the bolts and see if that helps with the remaining bolts. Next step if that does not work is to drill the heads of the bolts off. Good Luck Kurt
I have 2 wires coming from External VR. They both are in a plastic socket pin. Which one should I use? The red one or the black one? I saw you putting brown or red one in the small socket..And thanks for this video. I had no idea.. huge saver
@@klassikats I have exactly same Valeo Alt like yours going on 1970. I saw you slotted a brown wire into a clip next to Volt Reg at 04:02. Is that coming from engine case? And in the end you attached a braided wire on larger bolt... Is that from engine case? I have a large brown wire coming from engine case, a blue wire and a red wire. Then I have 2 wires brown and red in a socket which went on old Alt which had clip. I am just a bit confused with your brown and braided wire... I have a stud next to the black cap (top opposite to VR)... thats for Blue wire?? Then I have a red sticker that says B+30+ stud, right next to a inbuilt blue wire... thats for Red wire?? I have small clip next to the VR (where you inserted a small brown wire).. not sure what that wire is on your car? Previously I had a socket with 2 wires on my old ALT. This one has only 1 clip as a socket. And a large brown wire coming from the engine case (that I suppose is the main ground wire) The one you attached to the last stud on the Alt housing? Any help is appreciated before I fry my brand new ALT.
@@klassikats There is a black and brown wire coming in a single large plastic socket. Do I cut the black wire off, tape it and use Brown wire only to clip it in and then also use large brown wire coming from the engine case to attach on the fan housing nut?
Enjoying all of your videos. I'm curious what method you used to judge the tension on the fan belt. I usually just press on the belt and look at the deflection. Are you looking for a little slippage when turning the fan by hand?
32 years of experience at feeling the belt tension helps me judge how tight it should be. When I turn the pulley with a new belt installed I usually dont want any slippage. Thanks Kurt
So the resistor is an "as needed" operation. It increases the pull up current on the armature and is installed if the alternator light lightly glows or comes on at idle speeds. The resistor is connected to across the terminals of the bulb holder for the alternator light. I will see if we can add this to the next job we do and make video. Kurt
@@klassikats that’s great thanks. I am installing the updated alternator currently with a WOSP unit. The car is an original 67/68 911L and the original wiring to the alternator is 1 big red 1 small red 1 black and 1 brown. I don’t seem to have the blue wire. Would the small red be the blue wire? Also do we completely disconnect the external voltage regulator plug or do we retain one of the pins?
Great Video on dealing with the Alternator. Exactly what do you do with the Old, External Voltage Regulator? Do you just disconnect the D+/61 and DF wires completely or connect them together? Thx!
Thx you Kurt! Really appreciate the quick response. Just to clarify. These are the 2 wires that go to the External Voltage Regulator. Does that mean I have to run a 'New' Wire from the D+/61 at the VR to the Alternator's D+/61 Terminal? That Wire is already part of the wire bundle at the Alternator location. Thank you again. @@klassikats
The only thing that would cause that would be a dead short to ground. This could be caused by incorrect wiring, degraded wiring insulation, or missing/insulating cracked boots. I have installed 100's of these alternators over the years and have never had a failure. Now thats not to say that you didn't get a defective one Kurt
I have a 1974 911, and I would like to update to the new Valeo alternator so where can we find the information on how to redo the wiring harness for the alternator and the instrument light diode if I update to the new Valeo alternator thank you.
Hi Marion Here is the link to the Technical Service Bulletin on our website, www.klassikats.com/technical-service-bulletin-new-alternator-has-integrated-regulator/ It has all the information you need to update to the newer style alternators. Thanks for watching Kurt
Kaz, We will try to put something together, but it might take a little while. In the meantime check your wiring. make sure that the blue wire at the alternator is wired to the +61 terminal. Sometimes it can be tough to determine between the ground terminal and the +61 on the new alternators. Also make sure that the energizing signal is making it to the alternator. If the blue wire is grounded somewhere in the circuit The light will not turn out and the alternator will not charge. The symptom that you will normally get when the warning light needs more current, (a resistor), is the light will be dimly lit at idle and go out when the engine speed is increased. It is also possible that the alternator is defective. Hope that helps Kurt
@@klassikats Thx Kurt! Alternator is definitely charging, but light is on brightly. Initially it was dim, and actually turned off briefly. Must be a wiring issue
@@kazstrankowski8721 If the light is on then the alternator should not be charging. If the light is on dimly then the alternator can still be charging but usually not at full capacity. It sounds like there may be a short circuit causing the light circuit to go to ground somewhere. This will turn the light on but may still allow the alternator to continue to charge, maybe? Are you sure that the wiring is correct at the gauges and you are looking at the right light?
Valeo is a French company. Your Valeo alternator will last six months and is made in China , better look at the warranty and who you bought it from. Ask me how I know. WOSP is a british company that makes the best alternators all the way to 250Amps! But they are pricey, A 175 Amps will cost you around $500. If you have an old Bosch one get it rebuilt with German parts.
All of your videos are high quality and super helpful, thank you so much! Saying hi from Perth Western Australia
Hi Adrian, thanks for the comment. I hear Perth is nice except for driving on the wrong side of the road. Cheers, Sarah
KATS - Great videos! Straight forward and such a good resource. Thanks for putting this high quality content out.
Your Welcome
Kurt
Excellent information.
Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Greetings directions Kurt it’s been a year since I first watch this video and commented and now I’ve got my Vallejo alternator and I’ve dropped the engine and transmission out of the car I’ve got my transmission with a Retired Porsche mechanic and I’m in the process of taking the engine apart but I’ve sheared off a fly wheel bolt and two bolts will not come off of the fly wheel. Thank you for your very informative videos.
Marion,
Sorry to hear you are having issues. Did the spline drive strip? or did the actual bolt head break off? If the spline drive has stripped then you need to check the tool you are using is the correct size and is in good shape. If the heads are shearing off, which I must admit I have not seen before you are going to have a lot more work on your hands. You can apply some heat directly to the bolts and see if that helps with the remaining bolts. Next step if that does not work is to drill the heads of the bolts off.
Good Luck
Kurt
I have 2 wires coming from External VR. They both are in a plastic socket pin.
Which one should I use? The red one or the black one? I saw you putting brown or red one in the small socket..And thanks for this video. I had no idea.. huge saver
If you are using the internally regulated alternator you dont use either one.
Kurt
@@klassikats I have exactly same Valeo Alt like yours going on 1970. I saw you slotted a brown wire into a clip next to Volt Reg at 04:02. Is that coming from engine case?
And in the end you attached a braided wire on larger bolt... Is that from engine case?
I have a large brown wire coming from engine case, a blue wire and a red wire. Then I have 2 wires brown and red in a socket which went on old Alt which had clip.
I am just a bit confused with your brown and braided wire...
I have a stud next to the black cap (top opposite to VR)... thats for Blue wire??
Then I have a red sticker that says B+30+ stud, right next to a inbuilt blue wire... thats for Red wire??
I have small clip next to the VR (where you inserted a small brown wire).. not sure what that wire is on your car? Previously I had a socket with 2 wires on my old ALT. This one has only 1 clip as a socket.
And a large brown wire coming from the engine case (that I suppose is the main ground wire) The one you attached to the last stud on the Alt housing?
Any help is appreciated before I fry my brand new ALT.
@@klassikats There is a black and brown wire coming in a single large plastic socket. Do I cut the black wire off, tape it and use Brown wire only to clip it in and then also use large brown wire coming from the engine case to attach on the fan housing nut?
Enjoying all of your videos. I'm curious what method you used to judge the tension on the fan belt. I usually just press on the belt and look at the deflection. Are you looking for a little slippage when turning the fan by hand?
32 years of experience at feeling the belt tension helps me judge how tight it should be. When I turn the pulley with a new belt installed I usually dont want any slippage.
Thanks
Kurt
The service bulletin says a resistor needs to be soldered into the dash alternator bulb - could you make a video on this?
So the resistor is an "as needed" operation. It increases the pull up current on the armature and is installed if the alternator light lightly glows or comes on at idle speeds. The resistor is connected to across the terminals of the bulb holder for the alternator light. I will see if we can add this to the next job we do and make video.
Kurt
@@klassikats that’s great thanks. I am installing the updated alternator currently with a WOSP unit. The car is an original 67/68 911L and the original wiring to the alternator is 1 big red 1 small red 1 black and 1 brown. I don’t seem to have the blue wire. Would the small red be the blue wire? Also do we completely disconnect the external voltage regulator plug or do we retain one of the pins?
Not sure you would have to look at the wiring diagram to confirm that.
Kurt
Great Video on dealing with the Alternator. Exactly what do you do with the Old, External Voltage Regulator? Do you just disconnect the D+/61 and DF wires completely or connect them together? Thx!
The D+/61 wire goes straight to the new alternator. The Black DF wire is no longer used and is just taped back against the harness.
Kurt
Thx you Kurt! Really appreciate the quick response. Just to clarify. These are the 2 wires that go to the External Voltage Regulator. Does that mean I have to run a 'New' Wire from the D+/61 at the VR to the Alternator's D+/61 Terminal? That Wire is already part of the wire bundle at the Alternator location. Thank you again. @@klassikats
Jay,
No you dont have to run any new wires. The +61 is already at the alternator.
Kurt
Sorry mate, one more, so the two wires at the External Voltage regulator are just disconnected? @@klassikats
Yes
Hi. I’ve a 83 911sc targa. I replaced my Paris Rhône to Valeo. After 30 miles of driving, alternator almost burned, what might have caused that? Thx
The only thing that would cause that would be a dead short to ground. This could be caused by incorrect wiring, degraded wiring insulation, or missing/insulating cracked boots. I have installed 100's of these alternators over the years and have never had a failure. Now thats not to say that you didn't get a defective one
Kurt
I have a 1974 911, and I would like to update to the new Valeo alternator so where can we find the information on how to redo the wiring harness for the alternator and the instrument light diode if I update to the new Valeo alternator thank you.
Hi Marion
Here is the link to the Technical Service Bulletin on our website, www.klassikats.com/technical-service-bulletin-new-alternator-has-integrated-regulator/ It has all the information you need to update to the newer style alternators.
Thanks for watching
Kurt
can you show the resistor install? I have a new alternator and the light won't switch off, even with the resistor on the bulb :(
Kaz,
We will try to put something together, but it might take a little while. In the meantime check your wiring. make sure that the blue wire at the alternator is wired to the +61 terminal. Sometimes it can be tough to determine between the ground terminal and the +61 on the new alternators. Also make sure that the energizing signal is making it to the alternator. If the blue wire is grounded somewhere in the circuit The light will not turn out and the alternator will not charge. The symptom that you will normally get when the warning light needs more current, (a resistor), is the light will be dimly lit at idle and go out when the engine speed is increased.
It is also possible that the alternator is defective.
Hope that helps
Kurt
@@klassikats Thx Kurt! Alternator is definitely charging, but light is on brightly. Initially it was dim, and actually turned off briefly. Must be a wiring issue
@@kazstrankowski8721 If the light is on then the alternator should not be charging. If the light is on dimly then the alternator can still be charging but usually not at full capacity. It sounds like there may be a short circuit causing the light circuit to go to ground somewhere. This will turn the light on but may still allow the alternator to continue to charge, maybe? Are you sure that the wiring is correct at the gauges and you are looking at the right light?
Valeo is a French company. Your Valeo alternator will last six months and is made in China , better look at the warranty and who you bought it from. Ask me how I know. WOSP is a british company that makes the best alternators all the way to 250Amps! But they are pricey, A 175 Amps will cost you around $500. If you have an old Bosch one get it rebuilt with German parts.
Sorry you have had trouble with your alternator. We have not had a problem with them at all. Our Valeo's are made in Poland, not China? S
Great, informative video, but please, PLEASE, get rid of that horrible music!
Thanks
Kurt
Alles gut und schön, aber die überflüssige Hintergrundmusik die nervt!
Okay, thanks for the feedback.
Kurt