Thank you for sharing. I think about the fact that because they did not take the time to make the panels properly, on the other end, the many thousands of hours that are spent making panels fit. : ( In the old days they would not get away with it.
Thanks for the video. Great stuff. Have you found Scott drake panels to be just as good as Dynacorn? Any manufacturers you would suggest staying away from?
@@quadepaul2169 The Acott Drake trunk panel fit good. I don't trust any panels made in Taiwan, and most, if not all are made there. I purchased a AMD door for the Chevelle and it was made in Taiwan. They slapped an AMD on the box. If you can find NOS, or used OE panels, you'll be ahead of the game.
Would you be willing to outline your experience and method for layering of paint products for panel replacement areas. In other words. 1. down to metal 2. weld through primer in weld areas only. 3. Rust bullet in bare metal or areas for rust treatment, then Epoxy primer or Raptor/ Berliner over that? what about the coat on backside of panels. strip it off, or paint over it? What is you experience with Rust bullet vs. POR15, vs Eastwood Rust encapsulator? Thanks
@@quadepaul2169 Southern Polyurethane has a good outline for painting: www.southernpolyurethanes.com/resources/how-to-use/the-perfect-paint-job/ Use weld through primer in areas you can see or paint at a later time. To apply Raptor, I spray it directly over epoxy primer during the time when it's not fully cured. Rust Bullet is way better than POR-15. I just sold a trailer that had rust bullet on it since 2008. Absolutely no rust on it. If you can get all the rust off, definitely apply epoxy and skip the rust bullet.
Thank you for sharing. I think about the fact that because they did not take the time to make the panels properly, on the other end, the many thousands of hours that are spent making panels fit. : ( In the old days they would not get away with it.
I have a friend that always purchases NOS Ford panels. They always fit perfect.
@@torqued7601 Expensive, but the best way to go in many cases.
Thanks for the video. Great stuff. Have you found Scott drake panels to be just as good as Dynacorn? Any manufacturers you would suggest staying away from?
@@quadepaul2169 The Acott Drake trunk panel fit good. I don't trust any panels made in Taiwan, and most, if not all are made there. I purchased a AMD door for the Chevelle and it was made in Taiwan. They slapped an AMD on the box. If you can find NOS, or used OE panels, you'll be ahead of the game.
Would you be willing to outline your experience and method for layering of paint products for panel replacement areas. In other words. 1. down to metal 2. weld through primer in weld areas only. 3. Rust bullet in bare metal or areas for rust treatment, then Epoxy primer or Raptor/ Berliner over that? what about the coat on backside of panels. strip it off, or paint over it? What is you experience with Rust bullet vs. POR15, vs Eastwood Rust encapsulator? Thanks
@@quadepaul2169 Southern Polyurethane has a good outline for painting: www.southernpolyurethanes.com/resources/how-to-use/the-perfect-paint-job/
Use weld through primer in areas you can see or paint at a later time.
To apply Raptor, I spray it directly over epoxy primer during the time when it's not fully cured.
Rust Bullet is way better than POR-15. I just sold a trailer that had rust bullet on it since 2008. Absolutely no rust on it. If you can get all the rust off, definitely apply epoxy and skip the rust bullet.