Chris. You just listened to your headphones/speakers NOT the guy's speakers. The actual transducers that transformed electrical signals into sound pressure waves that reached your hears were your own. The skills and aesthetics of them DO pass through video pf course.
@@xedasxedas Came here to say the same thing lol. Never ceases to amaze me that people think they can hear someone else's speakers on TH-cam when they are just listening to their own.
@@EvanZamir while that is partially true, people also forget that you can hear a lot of micro detail even on TH-cam that is simply not present on cheap speakers. Subtle nuances will always shine through, regardless of what it is played back on (within reason). I have a fairly similar system (most of what you hear is coming from the Raal dipole tweeter which I have) and while it doesn't sound as good as mine obviously does in my room, it is a fair representation of what that driver is capable of. They truly are a speaker worth buying (although not cheap... like $1000 USD each for the AM version).
Will you be publishing dimensions, etc, so that others could reproduce your result? They look and sound amazing! I can’t imagine the sound quality in person - kudos!
Your speakers look amazing! I currently use a pair of speakers built after a Troels Gravesend design (Revelator 851). These speakers might be a future project, but right now your Dac/streamer build is what interest me the most. Keep up the good work! Love your channel.
Hi Gabby it is Rock here... appreciated the opportunity to hear your system ... 2 thumbs up... You had mentioned amplification to consider for my rescently restored Kef 107s ( I am currently running Nakamichi CA5 preamp and PA7 poweramp) ... looking forward to your opinion ... and hopefully getting together next year again
Wow ! If I was employing the famed British understatement, I would have to say that you appear to have quite a talent for the design, engineering and aesthetics of this speaker building game. I am very very impressed with your achievements here and I certainly tip my hat to you. (I have subbed to the channel so that I'm not late to your video's in future.)
Great job 👏🏻 like the frequency with a little lower at 1-2k. It’s an area that can be hard to listen to. You thought of many things on this build. Standing waves. And sandwich construction etc. … really great. Like to hear them.
Are you talking about the tweeter to mid crossover point? The dipoles don't like to be crossed over too low. Raal recommend a 4th order LR crossover (reasonably steep) at 2500hz, whereas the monopole version of the same speaker can be crossed over as low as 1600hz @ LR4 (presumably it can go lower because the back is encased and controls ribbon movement). I cross my Raal dipoles over at about 2750hz, any lower and it can start to sound a bit too clinical. The one great advantage of using an active crossover, you can play to your hearts content finding that sweet spot.
They are awesome. You did a great job. The crossover parts probably cost more than most other peoples speakers alone. I love seeing good diy audio projects and this one is great. I wonder how big was the difference between the low cost crossover compared to the high end one? I have a speaker project planned for the future and this really inspires me more. Thank you
Thank you :) glad you got inspired more to build some speakers. Hard to tell without a quick A/B listening test as there was a lot of fine tuning and small changes, but going by memory there was a good difference but not huge.
Hi I have enjoyed every minute I have watch this video However you didn't mention where did you put your crossover points As I can remember the B&W is a pure midrange with low xmax and it can't get lower than 250Hz and as it being 6 intch driver it can get higher than 2.5KHz Am I wrong???
My experience it that perfect transient response on a high xo doesn't make a big difference. Maybe snaps and clicks are a little softer with the tweeter on the back, you won't notice that at all if you dont listen active for it.
Thank you very much for sharing, It is people like you that makes me want to build more. I will be building the same speakers. love the sound.I have subscribs to your channel too.
@gabster1 Great videos! I really enjoy your creativity. I'm wondering how you came up with the design for the woofer cabinet and the midrange. How did you know it would sound as good as it does? You mentioned making the woofer cab deeper to get enough volume without making it wide or tall, but was it just intuition? Similarly, with the mid, I'm curious how that design came about. Thanks!
I think you have to play with the port a bit. It punches at some quite high frequency. Also three bands are audible: lows, mids, and highs. PS It's easy to sell metal membranes, but I'd never use it in my design. Try to stitch bands properly, and you will never need the most expensive drivers in the world, and 1-st order crossover will be enough.
Amazing! - going off at a tangent; has anyone thought of getting one of these realist painters to 'blend in' a large pair of speakers to their surroundings?
All sound travels at the same speed. i.e the speed of sound (which is effected by temperature and pressure) but I digress... What alters is the wave length of the sound wave. At 20kHz the wave length is 17mm, whereas at 20Hz the wavelength is 17 meters. Why you often see the tweeter slightly set back is to time align the drivers. In the case of the Raal dipoles he is using, the aluminium ribbon is ideally aligned with the centre of the mid, and the centre of that is in line with the centre of the woofer. Because of the depth of the cone of the woofer that means the mid needs to be set back slightly and the same again for the tweeter.
they remind me a little of the very first speakers from Dave Wilson Audio - WAMM Series 1...I don't like this gallows head, would try to solve it differently. listen to your wife hehe :) the second version looks better ;) nice work !
I am wondering why you chose to use the RAAL dipole tweeters instead of the regular monopole 140-15D, when your mid is and bass obviously enclosed. I use the RAAL 140-15D AM dipoles myself in my open baffle speakers, but they don't sound as good as my monopole 140-15D AM.
I love them I wanted to have the option to close the back or not but decided not to after listening to both but never tried the factory closed version. Mine are crossed low around 2200 hz so I get some of the open baffle sound. I think for the dipole the distance to the back wall and even side wall play a role so as room acoustics. My second favorite listening position is a chair between the 2 speakers you feel you are in the band try it sometime.
@@Gabster1 it is hard to go wrong with RAAL tweeter regardless of what you buy. I have 2 x 140-15D AM dipoles, 3 x 140-15D AM monopoles (future L,C,R) and 4 x 70-10 AM monopoles (future surround speakers) I just found the 140-15D AM monopoles to be that little bit nicer, plus they also play lower. I have my dipoles crossed over somewhere around 2700 - 2800 (can't remember what I set in the active crossover). But the monopoles are capable of going as low as 1600Hz (LR4 slope). Have you tried making the mid open baffle? I think you would be pleasantly surprised. The woofers I don't think really matter that much. Currently I have my 18" woofers without a baffle, but I am going to build some enclosures for them. You need a awful lot of drivers to do OB woofers properly (due to cancellation). Also as a side note I love the ScanSpeak 12MU's paired with the RAAL tweeters. The paper driver is very neutral and compliments the tweeter well. Ribbon can sound a bit in your face if crossed over to low, Using a paper driver as a mid tames any brightness that might be exhibited by the tweeter.
WOW! Those things are meticulously engineered & beautifully crafted! Your channel deserves way more attention! Question: When the ribbon tweeter is positioned all the way back, Does 'Time-Alignment' really mess with your ears? Or does it sound more like an 'ambience' tweeter, since the response would be nicely dispersed by the curved midrange 'shell' housing? I ask because my ears are very sensitive to 'shiny' tweeters & lobing effects, especially if there is any hint of sibilance, This design seems to solve both problems.
Thank you for the support. The channel is only 5 month old and seems to be growing fast. I actually can not hear any time alignment difference at all but had to keep the time aligned version or I will be crucified by the critics I am like you. It sounds more relaxed but still detailed with more air. It also does not affect the imaging. it is more likely to hear a midrange time alignment difference then a tweeter. the best part is the measurement at 45 degree horizontal angle is still almost flat.
@@Gabster1 That sounds encouraging! If I may suggest, for the speaker mounts, use stainless steel 'copper' screws. Just dip the silver screws in Copper Sulphate solution, Takes only 5-10 seconds. Less shiny, more SteamPunk-vintage-copper. Provided, Of course, that look is palatable to you :) (Works best on shiny stainless-steel screws, also works on bare steel/non-oxidated/non-zinc coated screws)
@@vikassm That is a Awesome idea I may do that I have a jar of Copper Sulphate solution that I was recently using to plate a vintage amp. I am very comfortable with that. THANK YOU
@@JohnLee-db9zt :) I see You must have only seen Part 1 These are different layers see the part 2 of this Video how I put together all the layers. I am in Canada but we have the same Home depot
a greater variety of music for purpose of evaluation would be appreciated exempli gratia Beethoven Symphony V Chicago 25 Or 6 To 4 Orff Carmina Burana Simon & Garfunkel etc.
Scan speak 32W/4878T01 woofer, 5inch BW D3 or Scan speak MU 12 Midrange, Raal 140 15DAM tweeter. I will be doing a video about the crossovers in the future. it is a simple second order design
@@Gabster1 have you tried the Scanspeak 12MU? I am using a combination of the dipole Raal 140-5D AM in conjunction with the Scanspeak 12MU in open baffle configuration and it sounds amazing (crossing over somewhere around 2750Hz). I recommend giving it a go if you haven't tried it before. The paper cone / ribbing / neodymium magnet system of the illuminator series driver is a great combination. Gives voices such a warm natural sound to them without sounding bloated and artificial like the enclosure gives you. I have mine mounted right under the tweeter to stop lobbing. I don't know if it would sound too harsh, but I would also like to try some of the Accuton mids.
You obviously didn't try the right active crossover. It is night and day back the other way. It would take a mega high end passive crossover extremely well designed by someone who is a master at designing crossovers to come anywhere near close to a really good active crossover. I am using a Ground Sound DCN28 with my Raal / Scanspeak / TC Sounds open baffle speakers and they sound absolutely wonderful. You have already learned some of the most valuable lessons about active crossovers, while you can get a fairly flat EQ, if you apply too much filtering etc etc, you can really wreck the sound. So any changes you make to the active profile should be modest and well thought out. You have also learned the other valuable lesson about active crossovers, and that is you can not beat them for finding the best crossover frequencies. I played with mine for several days just making adjustments and having a listen. No having to muck around with changing components, just update the map and upload it. As I put in my other post you would have been better off with the monopole Raal 140-15D tweeter. The dipoles like to be a minimum of a meter off the wall (in all directions) to make them sound great, and by putting the dipole virtually on top of the rear wall you are almost making a monopole out of that dipole but with poor time alignment. You should try and put the speakers another half a meter further into the room and have a listen (while the wife is out).
@@Gabster1 unfortunately they are. I bought mine probably 11 years ago and it cost me about $7,000 back then with the software dongle (that was about $1000). Today I would probably go with a DEQX which I was also looking at back then.
Congratulations on the project. It is amazing how we can arrive at similar solutions even without ever having met! Even in my modest project I made a housing for the BeW FST mid .. which I still have to get. On the TW I prefer a front only emission but it is just my preference. The external crossover is also a great idea, in my case it is installed in an opening on the bottom of the speaker, in order to be accessible for any modifications. My compliments again! th-cam.com/video/5li6EjvP-rE/w-d-xo.html
Thank you Luca was happy to be your 200 subscriber Beautiful speakers you created and a great channel. I will for sure check it some more as I get some free time.
Wow amazing craftsmanship Gaby. You definitely have a knack for making complicated projects but yet also make it look easy to do. Cannot wait to hear them one day
I'm really impressed with the sound of these, but even more impressed with the level of skill it took to design and create them. Amazing.
Chris. You just listened to your headphones/speakers NOT the guy's speakers. The actual transducers that transformed electrical signals into sound pressure waves that reached your hears were your own. The skills and aesthetics of them DO pass through video pf course.
@@xedasxedas Came here to say the same thing lol. Never ceases to amaze me that people think they can hear someone else's speakers on TH-cam when they are just listening to their own.
@@EvanZamir while that is partially true, people also forget that you can hear a lot of micro detail even on TH-cam that is simply not present on cheap speakers. Subtle nuances will always shine through, regardless of what it is played back on (within reason). I have a fairly similar system (most of what you hear is coming from the Raal dipole tweeter which I have) and while it doesn't sound as good as mine obviously does in my room, it is a fair representation of what that driver is capable of. They truly are a speaker worth buying (although not cheap... like $1000 USD each for the AM version).
Will you be publishing dimensions, etc, so that others could reproduce your result? They look and sound amazing! I can’t imagine the sound quality in person - kudos!
Your speakers are beautiful!
Thank you 🙏
Thank you for sharing the knowledge where everyone won't.
Complimenti,bel lavoro ,e bel suono.
Incredible!!! Congratulations to designing and building these dream speakers. A stunning accomplishment.
Thank you :)
Your speakers look amazing! I currently use a pair of speakers built after a Troels Gravesend design (Revelator 851). These speakers might be a future project, but right now your Dac/streamer build is what interest me the most. Keep up the good work! Love your channel.
Hi Gabby it is Rock here... appreciated the opportunity to hear your system ... 2 thumbs up... You had mentioned amplification to consider for my rescently restored Kef 107s ( I am currently running Nakamichi CA5 preamp and PA7 poweramp) ... looking forward to your opinion ... and hopefully getting together next year again
Truly amazing. Well done, congratulations.
Wow ! If I was employing the famed British understatement, I would have to say that you appear to have quite a talent for the design, engineering and aesthetics of this speaker building game. I am very very impressed with your achievements here and I certainly tip my hat to you. (I have subbed to the channel so that I'm not late to your video's in future.)
I just finished some speakers that also took nearly 6 months to develop and build. And they are also a bit weird! 😅
Welcome to weird but awesome club 😄
Se ven bien bonitos señor…! Saludos desde Quito-Ecuador 🇪🇨
Great job 👏🏻 like the frequency with a little lower at 1-2k. It’s an area that can be hard to listen to. You thought of many things on this build. Standing waves. And sandwich construction etc. … really great. Like to hear them.
Are you talking about the tweeter to mid crossover point? The dipoles don't like to be crossed over too low. Raal recommend a 4th order LR crossover (reasonably steep) at 2500hz, whereas the monopole version of the same speaker can be crossed over as low as 1600hz @ LR4 (presumably it can go lower because the back is encased and controls ribbon movement). I cross my Raal dipoles over at about 2750hz, any lower and it can start to sound a bit too clinical. The one great advantage of using an active crossover, you can play to your hearts content finding that sweet spot.
Wow , amazing art, congratz❤
They are awesome. You did a great job. The crossover parts probably cost more than most other peoples speakers alone. I love seeing good diy audio projects and this one is great. I wonder how big was the difference between the low cost crossover compared to the high end one? I have a speaker project planned for the future and this really inspires me more. Thank you
Thank you :) glad you got inspired more to build some speakers. Hard to tell without a quick A/B listening test as there was a lot of fine tuning and small changes, but going by memory there was a good difference but not huge.
Quick question, what is the manufacturer and model number of your Twitter@@Gabster1
Very impressive, a fine outcome after some quality work .
they sound amazing
Thank you! Great video! Like Modular configuration. Currently working with modular speaker with 600x600mm horn
sounds exciting have fun I have some Altec horns that I am itching to try next
They smell great!
i totally dig your audio channel
Amazing job, well done!
Very nice, good design and sound wonderful . They are not to big.
I love those.😊
Amazing Gaby. Looks fantastic and sounds even better.
Thank you Henrik Hope you will get a chance to listen to them soon.
Truly gorgeous.
Hi
I have enjoyed every minute I have watch this video
However you didn't mention where did you put your crossover points
As I can remember the B&W is a pure midrange with low xmax and it can't get lower than 250Hz and as it being 6 intch driver it can get higher than 2.5KHz
Am I wrong???
Awesome speakers.. I admire your perseverance
Congratulations mate, a great accomplishment, they are awesome 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks for sharing.
Stunning. We’ll done.
Amazing!!! Can you record some music played thru' your speaker to give us some sense of its audio quality?
Will do :)
Very Cool !
Very well done!!!
Thank you for detailed hard work!!!
Thank you Tex appreciate your Comment.
Let me guess…miniDSP. I’ve ordered Hypex 3 way DSP plate amps and much more hopeful for active.
My experience it that perfect transient response on a high xo doesn't make a big difference. Maybe snaps and clicks are a little softer with the tweeter on the back, you won't notice that at all if you dont listen active for it.
Very nice job! TY for the video! Must sound wonderfull. Have you tried them without the couch?
Thank you very much for sharing, It is people like you that makes me want to build more.
I will be building the same speakers.
love the sound.I have subscribs to your channel too.
Thank you, and enjoy the process.
@gabster1 Great videos! I really enjoy your creativity. I'm wondering how you came up with the design for the woofer cabinet and the midrange. How did you know it would sound as good as it does? You mentioned making the woofer cab deeper to get enough volume without making it wide or tall, but was it just intuition? Similarly, with the mid, I'm curious how that design came about. Thanks!
I think you have to play with the port a bit. It punches at some quite high frequency. Also three bands are audible: lows, mids, and highs.
PS It's easy to sell metal membranes, but I'd never use it in my design.
Try to stitch bands properly, and you will never need the most expensive drivers in the world, and 1-st order crossover will be enough.
Amazing! - going off at a tangent; has anyone thought of getting one of these realist painters to 'blend in' a large pair of speakers to their surroundings?
Just stumbled on your channel nice speakers !! I saw all the work !!
thanks for the video
Just WOW!!!
Awesome video and build. How does this compare to fancy veteran audiophile brand products ?
better then most expensive speakers I have heard
Hi Gabi, what are the drivers you have used for this build?
Hello Gabster ,can I listen them live ? :)
You should have a long video just showing various styles of music through them
Checkout my 3 McIntosh preamp video I did just that
the highs sound waves travel faster than bass so it's normal that it's better to put the tweeter back
All sound travels at the same speed. i.e the speed of sound (which is effected by temperature and pressure) but I digress... What alters is the wave length of the sound wave. At 20kHz the wave length is 17mm, whereas at 20Hz the wavelength is 17 meters. Why you often see the tweeter slightly set back is to time align the drivers. In the case of the Raal dipoles he is using, the aluminium ribbon is ideally aligned with the centre of the mid, and the centre of that is in line with the centre of the woofer. Because of the depth of the cone of the woofer that means the mid needs to be set back slightly and the same again for the tweeter.
Bass is also omnidirectional
Why not seas graphene midrange? With active crossover?
they remind me a little of the very first speakers from Dave Wilson Audio - WAMM Series 1...I don't like this gallows head, would try to solve it differently. listen to your wife hehe :) the second version looks better ;) nice work !
What is the midrange driver?
Wonderful 😍
Great 👍 stuff
How much do you think it has costs for parts ?
Quality parts/crossover, Mundorf, Goertz etc..? ✌😎
What an amazing speaker! What midrange driver have you used?
These are B&W D series but a scanspeak 12mu will work just the same
Where can I get these flat copper coils?
www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/goertz-14-awg
Difraction?
I am wondering why you chose to use the RAAL dipole tweeters instead of the regular monopole 140-15D, when your mid is and bass obviously enclosed. I use the RAAL 140-15D AM dipoles myself in my open baffle speakers, but they don't sound as good as my monopole 140-15D AM.
I love them I wanted to have the option to close the back or not but decided not to after listening to both but never tried the factory closed version. Mine are crossed low around 2200 hz so I get some of the open baffle sound. I think for the dipole the distance to the back wall and even side wall play a role so as room acoustics.
My second favorite listening position is a chair between the 2 speakers you feel you are in the band try it sometime.
@@Gabster1 it is hard to go wrong with RAAL tweeter regardless of what you buy. I have 2 x 140-15D AM dipoles, 3 x 140-15D AM monopoles (future L,C,R) and 4 x 70-10 AM monopoles (future surround speakers)
I just found the 140-15D AM monopoles to be that little bit nicer, plus they also play lower. I have my dipoles crossed over somewhere around 2700 - 2800 (can't remember what I set in the active crossover). But the monopoles are capable of going as low as 1600Hz (LR4 slope).
Have you tried making the mid open baffle? I think you would be pleasantly surprised. The woofers I don't think really matter that much. Currently I have my 18" woofers without a baffle, but I am going to build some enclosures for them. You need a awful lot of drivers to do OB woofers properly (due to cancellation).
Also as a side note I love the ScanSpeak 12MU's paired with the RAAL tweeters. The paper driver is very neutral and compliments the tweeter well. Ribbon can sound a bit in your face if crossed over to low, Using a paper driver as a mid tames any brightness that might be exhibited by the tweeter.
onde consigo essas bobinas de cobre achatado ?
Madisound is where I got mine they have great quality ones, but you can try eBay, AliExpress
WOW! Those things are meticulously engineered & beautifully crafted! Your channel deserves way more attention!
Question: When the ribbon tweeter is positioned all the way back, Does 'Time-Alignment' really mess with your ears? Or does it sound more like an 'ambience' tweeter, since the response would be nicely dispersed by the curved midrange 'shell' housing?
I ask because my ears are very sensitive to 'shiny' tweeters & lobing effects, especially if there is any hint of sibilance, This design seems to solve both problems.
Thank you for the support. The channel is only 5 month old and seems to be growing fast. I actually can not hear any time alignment difference at all but had to keep the time aligned version or I will be crucified by the critics I am like you. It sounds more relaxed but still detailed with more air. It also does not affect the imaging.
it is more likely to hear a midrange time alignment difference then a tweeter. the best part is the measurement at 45 degree horizontal angle is still almost flat.
@@Gabster1 That sounds encouraging! If I may suggest, for the speaker mounts, use stainless steel 'copper' screws. Just dip the silver screws in Copper Sulphate solution, Takes only 5-10 seconds. Less shiny, more SteamPunk-vintage-copper. Provided, Of course, that look is palatable to you :)
(Works best on shiny stainless-steel screws, also works on bare steel/non-oxidated/non-zinc coated screws)
@@vikassm That is a Awesome idea I may do that I have a jar of Copper Sulphate solution that I was recently using to plate a vintage amp. I am very comfortable with that. THANK YOU
What is the "sorbothane like layer"?
Hi Bryan It is a blue skin membrane used in construction
Hi where did you get that special plywood for your woofer cabinet?
They are regular Home Depot 1/8 plywood 4x8 sheets cut in half
@@Gabster1 But it has rubber and fiber glass layers? I don’t recall anything like that at my local Home Depot. What part of the US do you live in?
@@JohnLee-db9zt :) I see You must have only seen Part 1
These are different layers see the part 2 of this Video how I put together all the layers.
I am in Canada but we have the same Home depot
@@Gabster1 I just did. I don’t have the tools or skill set to do what you did.
a greater variety of music for purpose of evaluation would be appreciated exempli gratia Beethoven Symphony V Chicago 25 Or 6 To 4 Orff Carmina Burana Simon & Garfunkel etc.
Is there a parts list for the speakers? I’m looking into making some myself
Scan speak 32W/4878T01 woofer, 5inch BW D3 or Scan speak MU 12 Midrange, Raal 140 15DAM tweeter.
I will be doing a video about the crossovers in the future. it is a simple second order design
@@Gabster1 have you tried the Scanspeak 12MU? I am using a combination of the dipole Raal 140-5D AM in conjunction with the Scanspeak 12MU in open baffle configuration and it sounds amazing (crossing over somewhere around 2750Hz). I recommend giving it a go if you haven't tried it before. The paper cone / ribbing / neodymium magnet system of the illuminator series driver is a great combination. Gives voices such a warm natural sound to them without sounding bloated and artificial like the enclosure gives you. I have mine mounted right under the tweeter to stop lobbing. I don't know if it would sound too harsh, but I would also like to try some of the Accuton mids.
You obviously didn't try the right active crossover. It is night and day back the other way. It would take a mega high end passive crossover extremely well designed by someone who is a master at designing crossovers to come anywhere near close to a really good active crossover. I am using a Ground Sound DCN28 with my Raal / Scanspeak / TC Sounds open baffle speakers and they sound absolutely wonderful.
You have already learned some of the most valuable lessons about active crossovers, while you can get a fairly flat EQ, if you apply too much filtering etc etc, you can really wreck the sound. So any changes you make to the active profile should be modest and well thought out. You have also learned the other valuable lesson about active crossovers, and that is you can not beat them for finding the best crossover frequencies. I played with mine for several days just making adjustments and having a listen. No having to muck around with changing components, just update the map and upload it.
As I put in my other post you would have been better off with the monopole Raal 140-15D tweeter. The dipoles like to be a minimum of a meter off the wall (in all directions) to make them sound great, and by putting the dipole virtually on top of the rear wall you are almost making a monopole out of that dipole but with poor time alignment.
You should try and put the speakers another half a meter further into the room and have a listen (while the wife is out).
That looks like a nice unit all balanced, I went on their site sad to see they are out of business.
@@Gabster1 unfortunately they are. I bought mine probably 11 years ago and it cost me about $7,000 back then with the software dongle (that was about $1000).
Today I would probably go with a DEQX which I was also looking at back then.
Tom Baker approves
На низах конечно кошмар жуткий.. Столько резонансов... Жалко, что в этот раз у вас не получилось...
What!!
Congratulations on the project. It is amazing how we can arrive at similar solutions even without ever having met! Even in my modest project I made a housing for the BeW FST mid .. which I still have to get. On the TW I prefer a front only emission but it is just my preference. The external crossover is also a great idea, in my case it is installed in an opening on the bottom of the speaker, in order to be accessible for any modifications. My compliments again! th-cam.com/video/5li6EjvP-rE/w-d-xo.html
Thank you Luca was happy to be your 200 subscriber Beautiful speakers you created and a great channel. I will for sure check it some more as I get some free time.
@@Gabster1 Thanks so much !
Wow amazing craftsmanship Gaby. You definitely have a knack for making complicated projects but yet also make it look easy to do. Cannot wait to hear them one day
@@robertcasey1284 Thank Rob Hopefully you will hear them soon :)
🤦 P"R"O"M"O"S"M!!!