Man - first time home-owner as of about 10 days ago. Bought something that needs a little bit of love, as a grew up with a father who would walk me through steps on projects just like you are now. PVC was the extent of my plumbing experience, but someone converted the house to PEX. I need to fix a shower faucet that wouldn't turn off, tried to go cheap and get replacement parts, no luck. Bought a new fixture and valve as I have access to the backside of the shower wall, nothing a piece of drywall, mud and paint can't fix. I tore the galvanize pipe out and saw the build up inside that galvanized in notorious for. Decided I'm going to continue with PEX and do this right - if I do a bigger reno later, it'll pay off. Anyways, thanks so much for the most thorough tutorial I have seen on TH-cam. Saying things like "go backwards until you feel it sit right..." at 41:48, what a tip! I'm a self proclaimed (not very good) handyman and I instinctively do that all the time, being able to narrate instinctual things is the sign of a great teacher! I legit typed up notes while watching this LOL! Watching this video gave me a reason to call my Dad and share a memory and gratitude to him for showing me things I wasn't always interested in - Thanks for that! Subscribed, liked, can't wait to use this channel for all my projects. If all your videos are like this, I will quickly make this channel the first one I have 'Joined'.
man you make the best videos. lucky kids to have a dad like you teaching the trades and passing it on. nice work! and actually showing people they can do it themselves. Thanks for the video!
@@BelleRiverHeating Could you please give me more details ? If i am putting a thermostatic valve, you would put them at both inlet ? It's good for...ever ? I mean... the wall will be close. Yes i do have an access door but still not easy to replace if defect...
Great video ! I have been in commercial construction / property management for 25 plus years and I continue to learn new things after watching your presentations. You are easy to follow and very informative. I have recently started to renovate my new retirement home in Austin , Texas and you are a top shelf daily resource. My hat goes off to my Northern neighbor. Oh it is a great to see that you are teaching your son skills that will serve him a life time. You are a good Dad!
Awesome footage Jeff! Thanks! Just one detail to add: It is always worth to cleat the burr after using pipe cutter on copper tube. If left in place, turbulence occurs around the burr, which in turn causing deep pits.
Just a suggestion for people planning to teach themselves to sweat any pipes at home - invest in one of those small flame proof or fire proof protective cloth/mat they sell in Home Depot in the plumbing section, (for sweating pipe) and keep a fire extinguisher nearby.. you might amaze yourself how easy 2x4’s that have spent 40 years drying - or cobwebs covered in sawdust (if you’ve been working in the house) might catch on fire once you start holding a torch to them.. (ask me how i know ) . at the very least it’ll stop burn marks on the wood with joints really close to the wall.. and buy some clear safety glasses.. melting solder and eyes dont exactly like each other. Even some thin latex gloves will give you minimal protection too. I had to learn from someone trying to explain how to do it on the phone - so you guys have it much easier with videos now.. here’s a tip - you’re trying to gradually HEAT the inside of the fittings - not burn them. If you’re pipes are turning black - its too much heat too fast. You need to pull the flame further away. Just like cooking a steak, you’ll burn the outside before the inside cooks.. Propane (blue tank) takes longer to heat fittings then map gas (yellow tanks) so you need to allow extra time to heat before you apply solder. With butane anyway - you dont want the hottest part of the flame touching the fittings. You want the very tip of the flame to slowly ‘heat’ things up instead of burning the pipe. Just count in your head how long it takes - and after a couple you’ll know how long to keep the torch on the joint before you can apply solder. Brass fittings take much longer cause they’re thicker. I think i use to count to about 30 with the brass before applying solder, maybe 10 or 15 with regular copper joints. Clean and flux EVERYTHING before trying to solder joints. Another tip - you can assemble almost everything with freshly cleaned and fluxed joints - this way you’ll know if something doesn’t fit right before you solder stuff. Plus - with everything prepped and assembled, you can solder it all at once, instead of constantly picking up the torch and putting it down. You also dont really need to wipe joints after you solder them, all thats doing it making it look better, so dont go crazy trying to make it look pretty. Personally - I’d never use that plastic shit or quick connects behind my (especially) shower wall - but I’m no expert so what do i know other than theres house’s with 100 year old copper pipes still working.. leaks seem to develop in joints - and its from movement over years breaking the joint free and forming a leak. You have all those shower parts anchored properly - it ain’t gonna move, and it ain’t gonna leak. Contractors like the plastic stuff cause it cheaper, faster, and no thought or skill involved. Not cause its “better”. If they were better, they wouldn’t have so much ‘warranty work’ now would they???
I really appreciate your video's! You really make it look so easy. I can't afford a plumber, so after watching your video I think I can do it myself . You explained it all so well in detail thank you so much!
Just a helpful tip for anyone sweating pipes. Place a cloth or towel down on the tub, especially if it's fiberglass. Molten solder dripping off the pipes can burn pits into the fiberglass.
Your videos are excellent and you have a "born teacher" way of explaining things. I will try and complete my master bath reno from jacuzzi/tub combo to walk in shower (rain head and hand held combo). Did the demo work last week and have been learning from your videos since. Feel brave enough now to give it a go. Thanks so much.
There are many ways to solder. This is a new way for me. I was taught to remove all fittings and all pipes and start fresh reusing new fittings . I like your video. Thank you.
Your instructional videos have made me a more confident DIYer. I'm sure we all love the way you explain Everything. I don't think you leave anything out. Camera angles are excellent. Simply amazing! Just amazing Jeff. Thank you so much for all the great videos. There is simply no need for you tubers to look anywhere else! Cheers.
I really appreciate your videos. With no major experience I've literally helped my sister renovate her basement into a one bedroom apartment with a fully functional bathroom and kitchen. Your videos are what made the project so successful, thanks allot for help. Btw thanks for introducing me to a hawk! Drywall taping and mudding have been a breeze. Keep the videos coming!
Great video. I'm always afraid to it that way and I windup cutting the pipes and then connecting them with couplings. But gonna try it this way from now on. Thanks for the great video.
I feel like I'm gonna have to send him pictures of our bathroom when we are done like parents send pictures of their baby to their OBGYN. I've already spent hours watching his videos and will be rewatching them as we go along. I love how he always gives you more than one way to do things depending on price, skill, and whatever your home has depending on age and installation.
Im working on my Master Bathroom in my 1947 craftsman style 3/2 home thanks to Home renovision.....crazy part is I come from a family full of expert carpenters 3 generations deep( my career is cars, not building lol) , but I wanted to show my dad that I can do it w/o calling him or my uncles ( they are all retired) he smiles when he comes by & sees my work.... like Im a newborn again lol..thank goodness for people like him and TH-cam (dad grandpa uncles brother didnt have youtube to learn from :) )
I love that you used the toilet to cool the pieces and your blacksmithing comment was awesome! Thanks for the video helped us gain confidence and do the project ourselves!
i learned to sweat copper a couple years ago,but never knew to flux the joint after it accepts the solder.priceless info,thank you. i'm a sub and love your channel.i've learned enough to rebuild my master bath from scratch.it's very rewarding to do a $25,000 job for about $3000.thanks again.
Excellent video. It gave me the confidence to do the plumbing for my bath renovation on my own. The only thing I wish you would dive into is how to measure the depth of the support cross-beams. I get the impression that's somewhat important.
Hi Jeff, I watched your videos for the first time great job with ideas I didn't think of! Here's one for you prior to cutting the copper you plan to solder at sand it first it's easier that way, then touch up if needed. I also enjoyed that you DID NOT have a monotone boring voice as others do. You were enjoyable to listen to. God bless!
Thank you for your VERY helpful videos. We had a copper pipe shear off as we removed a valve and its darn hard to get a plumber over the weekend. First we learned enough to remove the old valve and installed shark bites. As we were still struggling to get a plumber we learned to solder and did it oursleves. We did discover soldering takes a bit of practice with heating all around the joint helping us. We got there in the end. Thanks! Impossible without excellent videos from you and others.
Great video, my only recommendation would be not use sheet rock screws to anchor the top joint going to the shower head. The first time someone changes a shower head the head of the sheetrock screws break off and now you have a new job.
Love the PEX system and the adapters from copper to PEX makes life easy. I just wish that there were more valve styles available like there are in copper or brass. Great videos, thanks for the effort.
many manufacturers make pex ready valves, they just don't sell them at the major building stores yet! You need to go to a plumbing wholesaler supplier. They can help you out with options. Cheers!
I like your videos, I do, a lot, and you helped me a lot with two wood projects. You have a nice voice that is not boring and a great personality, but you worried me for the first time sweating those pipes, haha! MAPP (yellow can) gas is hotter so its good for that thick brass...but please, do not clean with flux! you hurt the copper in the long run and you also make all that "pretty silver" attach outside the connection, worse, you may be retrieving the one that was already inside back out. And, picture the liquid solder inside and drag it along the entire circumference, like the torch was a magnet. The solder will follow the heat. And, stop as soon as it runs in, don't let it bubble inside because it can leak.
Hi there. I do most of my handyman work around my house and neighbors but not much plumbing repairs because of the soldering but now you’ve made it very easy with all the different tips. When I first saw the 1:10 minute long video I was like no way too long but after watching the first few minutes I got hooked like a shark bite clamp. Awesome the way you talk through the entire video and explain in detail the dos and don’ts. Keep it up. I just had to subscribe because you made me want to learned more of the plumbing skills. Thank you for sharing your videos and your thoughts. 🙏🏻
Just want to say I am enjoying your videos. learning alot. I'm a mechanic bg profession buth I am a handy man but I have learned alot from your videos.
EXCELLENT VIDEOS, THANK YOU! I had a great deal of trouble with the shark bite and flex hose that is used with it. My plumber installed a new water heater for me and used those for the connections. About 2 years later I started getting black flecks and soot out of my bathtub - grossed the wife out. I could not find a plumber in my area could figure it out (or maybe they were not interested and wanted to sell me a new water heater), all of them said it was probably flaking from the vent or was a bad water heater...So did some googling and found out that this soot can be caused by those connectors. I replaced them with copper and the black specks went right away! Apparently, over time the inside layer of those shark bite lines can get weak and break off cause the black flecks. I will stick with copper for now.
Thank you so much. I bought a Moen two handle replacing what was there. Personally I like two Handles better. Next time I will look for the valve body, maybe separate. I bought the whole kit valve body and faucet, spout and shower head. After watching this video I will now buy pex fittings for the valve body since it didn’t come that way. Thank you! Working on my Courage to soldier. I love the way you explain how the heat sucks the soldier. Thank you.
Hi Jeff. I don't know if you're still checking the comments on this video - I'm hoping you do because I have a question: the control module for the Danze tub/shower kit includes a black plastic depth guide to ensure correct installation. Is this necessary? I ask because it covers the holes on the back plate and I can't see another way to mount it. I'm currently attempting to DIY renovate my bathroom nightmare and this is the only thing I haven't seen you cover in your videos. Everything else is going really well thanks to your DIY tips. Thank you so much.
Yes sir I got it..I like u ,you take the time to really show what's goin on I'm a handyman for long time now and have many years in construction.so I know exactly what's goin on..
I’m a plumber and I work with pex. I couldn’t help but see that on the cold side 90 the you crimped you didn’t crimp the ring all the way and you left a belly on it. That for sure will be a leak with time. On the last diverter of this video. The 90 you crimped on the cold side, you didn’t push the pipe all the way in the fitting and when you crimped the ring, you left too much space so just by seeing that, the ring didn’t catch the bridges on the fitting and didn’t make a water right seal.
Tip use the diameter of pipe To measure the amount of solder mark With a 90 degree bend. 1/2 in pipe use 1/2 of solder make bend to mark it. 3/4 bend at 3/4 in.
Came here looking to figure out if I need to mount the valve to the horizontal 2x4,... the all 4 holes being tapped in the body of the valve really threw me off. Thank you for covering that!
Hi Jeff! Thank you for your teaching, and just a personal request that will help all the cheapskates saving plumbing money thanks to you!, please include the code height on the valve, water supply for the tub, etc, etc. Thanks again and keep up the good work!
This is all informative, but a good share of these sweat fittings are behind finished plaster walls with a small opening for access, and the pipes are clamped to the studs.
Seen a couple of your videos and just subscribed....keep up the good work!!!! your explanations are beyond accurate and simple to understand. Thanks for sharing your experience!
You have an awesome personality, I really enjoy watching your shows. Have you thought of getting sponsorship from the tools you recommend? Thanks for all these wonderful "how to" videos.
Maybe someday but our goal is to remain in charge of everything on this channel, so we are not looking for people to want something from us when it comes to any business arrangements.
great vid about plumbing options. Only thing that I've noticed is that the pinch clamps on pex tend to leak when exposed to extreme temp variations. saw a vid when the wall was opened up in a commercial bath the pinch clamps were all leaking the few crimp clamps had not. I do use the pinch clamps on rubber apps such as in automotive vacuum. Good to see someone who can solder. I like the map gas too....
yes, I remember in 2006 when I started plumbing my house I decided to use copper because the crimpers were $700 at our local home depot store. Just couldn't justify the cost. Bought a pair for $70 about 2 years ago....
Even after watching this, I can't decide between copper and Pex. I'm a handy guy, and soldering copper is no problem for me. Yes, it takes longer and isn't for everyone. I know I sound like the old guy in the room when I say this, but the copper pipes and fittings I buy now don't feel as heavy as stuff from 30 years ago, so I question the quality of everything now. So Jeff, what would you put in your house, wanting the best quality you can find? I can tell from your videos that you can recognize inferior quality control, so I'd take your advice as solid.
Thanks, Jeff, you are an excellent teacher, because you make the soldering look easy (not scary). Can I change my old Delta Monitor shower valve without changing the tub-faucet since it already corresponds with a separate drain stopper? Or should I get the complete universal kit and change out everything?
Pls klean off the flux w/ a wet soapy cloth! The flux will oxidize the copper at the joint up the the heat affected zone. Love your vids, like going back to a refresher course! Good job!
Copper(quality copper) is still a more permanent and long lasting pipe compared to any iteration of plastic. It will pretty much last forever. The pin hole leaks you might hear about is usually from cheaper thin walled copper. Copper also adds rigidity to the system which is important when you have to pull out a stuck cartridge. PVC shatters when it fails in 10 years and PEX leaks at the joints quite often. When plumbers say plastic is better they mean it's better for them because it's easier to install. However plastic is not better for the homeowner in terms of longevity.
Two questions: 1. Why do you not flux the copper pipe before inserting it into the fittings. Every source I’ve seen before says to flux both pipe and fitting. And fluxing afterward will corrode the pipe unless thoroughly cleaned off. 2. You only crimped 1/2 to 2/3 of many of your crimp rings. It is more reliable if the entire ring is crimped, which again is the recommendation I have seen from every other source and crimp tool maker. Good technique using the laser to get things plumb.
Great demonstrations on methods. They mystery on crimps is solved.. I am as green in plumbing as possible and I look forward to replacing my bath/shower assembly. I will watch this video as I go.. and I will let you know how I did.. the great camera work .. will lead the way !!
Used to use electrical tape on cuts. Now always keep el cheapo insta-glue handy. Quick clean of the wound and seal it up. Apply few more times during the day and the following days as well. Skip any infections and I guarantee in 4 days or better it'll be just like new and possibly no scar. I swear by it.
@24:27. Seems like this is perfect reason to keep sharkbite type caps on hand (for pex or copper) as you can easily pop them off when it is time to finish without wasting any materials.
When trying to hold a Pex ring in place, I take a pair of pliers and give the ring a slight squeeze and it will stay in place so you can use both hands to clamp it with the Pex tool. Just a slight squeeze, do not warp or bend it.
Sweating is the term for connecting copper pipe, sweating the joint ,wiping your joints after you sweat them prevents the copper turning green do to flux oils deposits. You do a great job!!!
Thank you for your videos. My question is what are those capped pipes parallel to each hot and cold for. Are those necessary to keep? Thank you for your time.
Wish that I had seen this compilation a few weeks ago! I renovated our bath and used 1/2 inch pex throughout. I was bitten by the water coming from the shower head when the diverter was in the tub position. I had to open the wall back up and replace the drop to the tub spout with 3/4 pex -- problem solved.
Good video, but you miss one other option. These days there are great epoxy's or glues for copper to join copper or brass fittings. What is your thought on this technique. Most homeowners won't feel comfortable with a torch inside a wall to solder fittings inside a wall.
Thank you for the step by step instructions. I am going to attempt to upgrade my shower plumbing etc. I am certain that I can do it myself now. Much appreciated
thank you for sharing, very helpful to see different systems. It helped to see the similarities in different installations. solidified the plumbing essentials. thanks!
I clean new construction homes for various builders in my area (MI) and they all use Pex, even the custom builders use Pex... The only thing that changes from builder to builder is the short section where the lines reduce down, the area closest to the fixtures (idk what it's called). Some builders switch from Pex to brass and some go to pvc. 🤷♀️
In the last segment at 1:01:55 when using the pump pliers to install the threaded fittings, if you hold the pump pliers in the opposite direction, with the lower jaw facing the direction of rotation, you will find that the pliers are less likely to slip.
I’m having problems with pvc also, my water pressure is so weak. Also read recently that pvc is bad for hot water because it breaks down. Thinking of switching back to galvanized pipes or pex.
I thought flux was an acidic paste to help clean and bond the metal solder and copper together. I've seen other plumbing videos say that you should wipe off the residual flux from the joints after soldering with a clean wet cloth to avoid the corrosive effects of the flux. Thoughts?
If my shower/tub valve installation highly suggest using copper for the tub/shower spout , i should listen to it right >? (It mentions everything else can be PEX but from valve to both spout , needs copper apparently) I guess i will learn to solder copper pipes if i have to (great ty to you for showing us how to in multiple videos)
for what it is worth--I worked with a plumber who always used spool wicking or a spool of thin cotton thread made for this--he wound would take an end of the thread and pull it to the end of the fitting over the threads and wind it over the piece he pulled and into the thread grooves and then he used liquid Teflon paste that remained flexible. He had seen Teflon tape joints leak after years of being in service requiring repair . The old school pipe joints done this way have lasted decades and never leaked. To some extent they are self repairing because the cotton expands as it gets wet. During a restaurant remodel, we did many hundreds if not thousands of copper joints this way and never had a leak. It took longer for each joint but this is a time proven method and the time required to sweat a copper connection open and repair the thread seal would have been substantial. If I were just using Teflon tape, I would first apply liquid Teflon and the tape over it. Run the tape so that tightening the joint will tighten the tape and make sure that it is not pushing ahead of the threads but being integrated into the threads. If not start over.
I'm not the best plumber,but regarding to the way you try cooling them pipes,even i'm doing it sometimes,we should never cool down apupe solder with flux,or wet rag,it violently cools the solder,that contracts it and cracks may appear in it,causing leaks...lovely video though.
Gosh we know nothing of plumbing but desperately need to do this in our existing shower tub. We have to replace the entire cartridges in the valves every few months and we have what goes from a steady drip to a steady stream. Our home was built in 1973. One company quoted us $3,000 because they said they would go in through the closet in the adjoining bedroom rather than destroying our existing tile in the shower tub location. We can’t afford $3,000. Would this procedure be the same if going in through the back? Any help you can give would be much appreciated. You are Brilliant 👏👍
Man - first time home-owner as of about 10 days ago. Bought something that needs a little bit of love, as a grew up with a father who would walk me through steps on projects just like you are now. PVC was the extent of my plumbing experience, but someone converted the house to PEX. I need to fix a shower faucet that wouldn't turn off, tried to go cheap and get replacement parts, no luck. Bought a new fixture and valve as I have access to the backside of the shower wall, nothing a piece of drywall, mud and paint can't fix. I tore the galvanize pipe out and saw the build up inside that galvanized in notorious for. Decided I'm going to continue with PEX and do this right - if I do a bigger reno later, it'll pay off. Anyways, thanks so much for the most thorough tutorial I have seen on TH-cam. Saying things like "go backwards until you feel it sit right..." at 41:48, what a tip! I'm a self proclaimed (not very good) handyman and I instinctively do that all the time, being able to narrate instinctual things is the sign of a great teacher! I legit typed up notes while watching this LOL!
Watching this video gave me a reason to call my Dad and share a memory and gratitude to him for showing me things I wasn't always interested in - Thanks for that! Subscribed, liked, can't wait to use this channel for all my projects. If all your videos are like this, I will quickly make this channel the first one I have 'Joined'.
man you make the best videos. lucky kids to have a dad like you teaching the trades and passing it on. nice work! and actually showing people they can do it themselves. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for that. we appreciate the love. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thank you very much for such a good videos. What are the 2 pipes coming out of the valve, and going up about 18 inches?
@@BelleRiverHeating Could you please give me more details ? If i am putting a thermostatic valve, you would put them at both inlet ? It's good for...ever ? I mean... the wall will be close. Yes i do have an access door but still not easy to replace if defect...
Great video ! I have been in commercial construction / property management for 25 plus years and I continue to learn new things after watching your presentations. You are easy to follow and very informative. I have recently started to renovate my new retirement home in Austin , Texas and you are a top shelf daily resource. My hat goes off to my Northern neighbor. Oh it is a great to see that you are teaching your son skills that will serve him a life time. You are a good Dad!
Thanks Gene, we are really having fun doing this channel. And I love working with my kids. Cheers to Austin
Don’t stop making videos. I’m watching all of them.
No problem, we have committed to at least another 5 years!
You are THE BEST!! Did the Copper to PEX for my 1950 Rental. Saved 400$ (plumber price.) Gladly pay my 5$ a month
Awesome footage Jeff! Thanks! Just one detail to add: It is always worth to cleat the burr after using pipe cutter on copper tube. If left in place, turbulence occurs around the burr, which in turn causing deep pits.
thanks!
What I like from him is he does do most things by himself full package of skills.
Just a suggestion for people planning to teach themselves to sweat any pipes at home - invest in one of those small flame proof or fire proof protective cloth/mat they sell in Home Depot in the plumbing section, (for sweating pipe) and keep a fire extinguisher nearby.. you might amaze yourself how easy 2x4’s that have spent 40 years drying - or cobwebs covered in sawdust (if you’ve been working in the house) might catch on fire once you start holding a torch to them.. (ask me how i know ) . at the very least it’ll stop burn marks on the wood with joints really close to the wall.. and buy some clear safety glasses.. melting solder and eyes dont exactly like each other. Even some thin latex gloves will give you minimal protection too. I had to learn from someone trying to explain how to do it on the phone - so you guys have it much easier with videos now.. here’s a tip - you’re trying to gradually HEAT the inside of the fittings - not burn them. If you’re pipes are turning black - its too much heat too fast. You need to pull the flame further away. Just like cooking a steak, you’ll burn the outside before the inside cooks.. Propane (blue tank) takes longer to heat fittings then map gas (yellow tanks) so you need to allow extra time to heat before you apply solder. With butane anyway - you dont want the hottest part of the flame touching the fittings. You want the very tip of the flame to slowly ‘heat’ things up instead of burning the pipe. Just count in your head how long it takes - and after a couple you’ll know how long to keep the torch on the joint before you can apply solder. Brass fittings take much longer cause they’re thicker. I think i use to count to about 30 with the brass before applying solder, maybe 10 or 15 with regular copper joints. Clean and flux EVERYTHING before trying to solder joints. Another tip - you can assemble almost everything with freshly cleaned and fluxed joints - this way you’ll know if something doesn’t fit right before you solder stuff. Plus - with everything prepped and assembled, you can solder it all at once, instead of constantly picking up the torch and putting it down. You also dont really need to wipe joints after you solder them, all thats doing it making it look better, so dont go crazy trying to make it look pretty. Personally - I’d never use that plastic shit or quick connects behind my (especially) shower wall - but I’m no expert so what do i know other than theres house’s with 100 year old copper pipes still working.. leaks seem to develop in joints - and its from movement over years breaking the joint free and forming a leak. You have all those shower parts anchored properly - it ain’t gonna move, and it ain’t gonna leak. Contractors like the plastic stuff cause it cheaper, faster, and no thought or skill involved. Not cause its “better”. If they were better, they wouldn’t have so much ‘warranty work’ now would they???
The very best DIY on TH-cam. Thank you!
I really appreciate your video's! You really make it look so easy. I can't afford a plumber, so after watching your video I think I can do it myself . You explained it all so well in detail thank you so much!
Just a helpful tip for anyone sweating pipes. Place a cloth or towel down on the tub, especially if it's fiberglass. Molten solder dripping off the pipes can burn pits into the fiberglass.
And above all always use a heat shield between the joint being soldered and the area around the joint being soldered.
So keeps close joints from unsoldering.
Wet rag for joints you dont want to unsolder
@@nelsonechevarria7009 why worry about it as long as you stay away from the wood studs?
**get heat shields. they are worth their weight in gold
Your videos are excellent and you have a "born teacher" way of explaining things. I will try and complete my master bath reno from jacuzzi/tub combo to walk in shower (rain head and hand held combo). Did the demo work last week and have been learning from your videos since. Feel brave enough now to give it a go. Thanks so much.
There are many ways to solder. This is a new way for me. I was taught to remove all fittings and all pipes and start fresh reusing new fittings . I like your video. Thank you.
Your instructional videos have made me a more confident DIYer. I'm sure we all love the way you explain Everything. I don't think you leave anything out. Camera angles are excellent. Simply amazing! Just amazing Jeff. Thank you so much for all the great videos. There is simply no need for you tubers to look anywhere else! Cheers.
I really appreciate your videos. With no major experience I've literally helped my sister renovate her basement into a one bedroom apartment with a fully functional bathroom and kitchen. Your videos are what made the project so successful, thanks allot for help. Btw thanks for introducing me to a hawk! Drywall taping and mudding have been a breeze. Keep the videos coming!
Glad to hear we were some help. Cheers Anthony, send us pics so we can show the job on instagram to help inspire others!
Slip a small piece of sheet metal behind the pipe while soldering. That way you don't char the studs behind the pipe. Great video, thanks for sharing.
But charring brings out the flavor..
Old license plate works great
@@Brian_P Yep - usually there's quite a few cars around you can take one from -- best not to take it from customer's car though :)
Great video. I'm always afraid to it that way and I windup cutting the pipes and then connecting them with couplings. But gonna try it this way from now on. Thanks for the great video.
I would do the same as you, not confident with old soldered joints.
And that's exactly the way to do it Bravo
22:23 Use the emory cloth to sand the copper pipe clean BEFORE cutting the pipe, it's a lot easier with the pipe being held in place.
I feel like I'm gonna have to send him pictures of our bathroom when we are done like parents send pictures of their baby to their OBGYN. I've already spent hours watching his videos and will be rewatching them as we go along. I love how he always gives you more than one way to do things depending on price, skill, and whatever your home has depending on age and installation.
Same, just bought a 1974 tri-level that was finished out by a diyer sometime in the late 80's and not touched since. So much to do.
Im working on my Master Bathroom in my 1947 craftsman style 3/2 home thanks to Home renovision.....crazy part is I come from a family full of expert carpenters 3 generations deep( my career is cars, not building lol) , but I wanted to show my dad that I can do it w/o calling him or my uncles ( they are all retired) he smiles when he comes by & sees my work.... like Im a newborn again lol..thank goodness for people like him and TH-cam (dad grandpa uncles brother didnt have youtube to learn from :) )
I love that you used the toilet to cool the pieces and your blacksmithing comment was awesome! Thanks for the video helped us gain confidence and do the project ourselves!
Cheers Amy, sometimes you need to use what is handy. Cheers!
i learned to sweat copper a couple years ago,but never knew to flux the joint after it accepts the solder.priceless info,thank you. i'm a sub and love your channel.i've learned enough to rebuild my master bath from scratch.it's very rewarding to do a $25,000 job for about $3000.thanks again.
Excellent video. It gave me the confidence to do the plumbing for my bath renovation on my own. The only thing I wish you would dive into is how to measure the depth of the support cross-beams. I get the impression that's somewhat important.
Hi Jeff, I watched your videos for the first time great job with ideas I didn't think of! Here's one for you prior to cutting the copper you plan to solder at sand it first it's easier that way, then touch up if needed. I also enjoyed that you DID NOT have a monotone boring voice as others do. You were enjoyable to listen to. God bless!
This dude is many things...hardcore, straight up, and hands on!
Thank you for your VERY helpful videos. We had a copper pipe shear off as we removed a valve and its darn hard to get a plumber over the weekend. First we learned enough to remove the old valve and installed shark bites. As we were still struggling to get a plumber we learned to solder and did it oursleves. We did discover soldering takes a bit of practice with heating all around the joint helping us. We got there in the end. Thanks! Impossible without excellent videos from you and others.
Great video, my only recommendation would be not use sheet rock screws to anchor the top joint going to the shower head. The first time someone changes a shower head the head of the sheetrock screws break off and now you have a new job.
Love the PEX system and the adapters from copper to PEX makes life easy. I just wish that there were more valve styles available like there are in copper or brass. Great videos, thanks for the effort.
many manufacturers make pex ready valves, they just don't sell them at the major building stores yet! You need to go to a plumbing wholesaler supplier. They can help you out with options. Cheers!
saved me $600 for valve install and upgrade from just a tub to a shower. Thank you.
I like your videos, I do, a lot, and you helped me a lot with two wood projects. You have a nice voice that is not boring and a great personality, but you worried me for the first time sweating those pipes, haha!
MAPP (yellow can) gas is hotter so its good for that thick brass...but please, do not clean with flux! you hurt the copper in the long run and you also make all that "pretty silver" attach outside the connection, worse, you may be retrieving the one that was already inside back out. And, picture the liquid solder inside and drag it along the entire circumference, like the torch was a magnet. The solder will follow the heat. And, stop as soon as it runs in, don't let it bubble inside because it can leak.
“Heat up the joint where you want the solder to got to”. That short sentence informs whether you’re soldering up, down, all angles in between. Thanks.
Or I was taught "The solder goes where the heat flows"
Had fire at my old house needed to repair, replace elect, plumbing, plus. Very glad i found your site. Your my one site info place.
my wife loves your shows ( Keep up the good work )
What I love like about you your easy going, no tools fly across the room and using the French word. Nothing against the French.! Thanks
I’ve been intimidated by soldering plumbing but now that I’ve seen this wow game changer! Thank you
Cheers!
Hi there. I do most of my handyman work around my house and neighbors but not much plumbing repairs because of the soldering but now you’ve made it very easy with all the different tips. When I first saw the 1:10 minute long video I was like no way too long but after watching the first few minutes I got hooked like a shark bite clamp. Awesome the way you talk through the entire video and explain in detail the dos and don’ts. Keep it up. I just had to subscribe because you made me want to learned more of the plumbing skills. Thank you for sharing your videos and your thoughts.
🙏🏻
Just want to say I am enjoying your videos. learning alot. I'm a mechanic bg profession buth I am a handy man but I have learned alot from your videos.
EXCELLENT VIDEOS, THANK YOU! I had a great deal of trouble with the shark bite and flex hose that is used with it. My plumber installed a new water heater for me and used those for the connections. About 2 years later I started getting black flecks and soot out of my bathtub - grossed the wife out. I could not find a plumber in my area could figure it out (or maybe they were not interested and wanted to sell me a new water heater), all of them said it was probably flaking from the vent or was a bad water heater...So did some googling and found out that this soot can be caused by those connectors. I replaced them with copper and the black specks went right away! Apparently, over time the inside layer of those shark bite lines can get weak and break off cause the black flecks. I will stick with copper for now.
They are sealed by rubber o-ring, and all rubber breaks down over time. Something to think about when trying the crimp-on copper joints.
Donald Warwic
Wow! Thank you so much for this. Now I know what’s gone wrong at my place too! I’m with your wife - totally gross.
I I always find myself coming back to this video. Awesome job , Jeff!
Fantastic!
Thank you so much. I bought a Moen two handle replacing what was there. Personally I like two Handles better. Next time I will look for the valve body, maybe separate. I bought the whole kit valve body and faucet, spout and shower head. After watching this video I will now buy pex fittings for the valve body since it didn’t come that way.
Thank you! Working on my Courage to soldier. I love the way you explain how the heat sucks the soldier.
Thank you.
Great Information....! I learned a lot of you today. I work at Home Depot and help lots of people . Thanks Jeff...!
Turn your roll of Teflon tape around when putting it on the threads and you will have an easier time keeping tension on it.
You are very passionate to what you are doing. A great man or contractor.
Hi Jeff. I don't know if you're still checking the comments on this video - I'm hoping you do because I have a question: the control module for the Danze tub/shower kit includes a black plastic depth guide to ensure correct installation. Is this necessary? I ask because it covers the holes on the back plate and I can't see another way to mount it. I'm currently attempting to DIY renovate my bathroom nightmare and this is the only thing I haven't seen you cover in your videos. Everything else is going really well thanks to your DIY tips. Thank you so much.
Yes sir I got it..I like u ,you take the time to really show what's goin on
I'm a handyman for long time now and have many years in construction.so I know exactly what's goin on..
I hope your week is off to a fabulous start!
Good common sense. Thanks, I enjoy freshing up on old school practice. Retired general contractor review.
I’m a plumber and I work with pex. I couldn’t help but see that on the cold side 90 the you crimped you didn’t crimp the ring all the way and you left a belly on it. That for sure will be a leak with time. On the last diverter of this video. The 90 you crimped on the cold side, you didn’t push the pipe all the way in the fitting and when you crimped the ring, you left too much space so just by seeing that, the ring didn’t catch the bridges on the fitting and didn’t make a water right seal.
adding flux after the soldering is new to me ... I shall adopt your method.
Don’t
Tip use the diameter of pipe
To measure the amount of solder mark
With a 90 degree bend.
1/2 in pipe use 1/2 of solder make bend to mark it. 3/4 bend at 3/4 in.
Came here looking to figure out if I need to mount the valve to the horizontal 2x4,... the all 4 holes being tapped in the body of the valve really threw me off. Thank you for covering that!
Thank you for videos and teaching Also, thanks for Canadian man who knows Canadian systems and coding. I love to watch your videos.
Hi Jeff! Thank you for your teaching, and just a personal request that will help all the cheapskates saving plumbing money thanks to you!, please include the code height on the valve, water supply for the tub, etc, etc.
Thanks again and keep up the good work!
This is all informative, but a good share of these sweat fittings are behind finished plaster walls with a small opening for access, and the pipes are clamped to the studs.
That's my situation too. Seems like I'd have to tear down the inward facing shower wall to donate proper fix
Seen a couple of your videos and just subscribed....keep up the good work!!!! your explanations are beyond accurate and simple to understand. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Cheers Erik!
You have an awesome personality, I really enjoy watching your shows.
Have you thought of getting sponsorship from the tools you recommend?
Thanks for all these wonderful "how to" videos.
Maybe someday but our goal is to remain in charge of everything on this channel, so we are not looking for people to want something from us when it comes to any business arrangements.
great vid about plumbing options. Only thing that I've noticed is that the pinch clamps on pex tend to leak when exposed to extreme temp variations. saw a vid when the wall was opened up in a commercial bath the pinch clamps were all leaking the few crimp clamps had not. I do use the pinch clamps on rubber apps such as in automotive vacuum. Good to see someone who can solder. I like the map gas too....
pinch has been outdated now that they have reasonable priced solid ring crimpers on the market!
yes, I remember in 2006 when I started plumbing my house I decided to use copper because the crimpers were $700 at our local home depot store. Just couldn't justify the cost. Bought a pair for $70 about 2 years ago....
Great video. I learned a lot about sweating copper and using PEX even though I've done quite a bit of copper. Thanks!
Beautiful production and content. Takes the fear out of tackling a project like this and gives confidence to viewers.
Thanks Shane , we are here to help if you have questions along the way!
Even after watching this, I can't decide between copper and Pex. I'm a handy guy, and soldering copper is no problem for me. Yes, it takes longer and isn't for everyone. I know I sound like the old guy in the room when I say this, but the copper pipes and fittings I buy now don't feel as heavy as stuff from 30 years ago, so I question the quality of everything now. So Jeff, what would you put in your house, wanting the best quality you can find? I can tell from your videos that you can recognize inferior quality control, so I'd take your advice as solid.
If you have copper now and you can solder then keep it. Cheers!
Thanks, Jeff, you are an excellent teacher, because you make the soldering look easy (not scary).
Can I change my old Delta Monitor shower valve without changing the tub-faucet since it already corresponds with a separate drain stopper? Or should I get the complete universal kit and change out everything?
Pls klean off the flux w/ a wet soapy cloth! The flux will oxidize the copper at the joint up the the heat affected zone. Love your vids, like going back to a refresher course! Good job!
Great video. I followed your directions for replacing a shower valve attached to copper pipes. Worked like a charm!
Thanks for this video. I will be changing one in the next two weeks, and I am considering switching from the copper,
Copper(quality copper) is still a more permanent and long lasting pipe compared to any iteration of plastic. It will pretty much last forever. The pin hole leaks you might hear about is usually from cheaper thin walled copper. Copper also adds rigidity to the system which is important when you have to pull out a stuck cartridge. PVC shatters when it fails in 10 years and PEX leaks at the joints quite often. When plumbers say plastic is better they mean it's better for them because it's easier to install. However plastic is not better for the homeowner in terms of longevity.
Two questions:
1. Why do you not flux the copper pipe before inserting it into the fittings. Every source I’ve seen before says to flux both pipe and fitting. And fluxing afterward will corrode the pipe unless thoroughly cleaned off.
2. You only crimped 1/2 to 2/3 of many of your crimp rings. It is more reliable if the entire ring is crimped, which again is the recommendation I have seen from every other source and crimp tool maker.
Good technique using the laser to get things plumb.
Hey Jeff, Love your videos. Please do a video on how to solder ball valves to copper. Whenever i solder the two i end up cracking open the valve.
Great demonstrations on methods. They mystery on crimps is solved.. I am as green in plumbing as possible and I look forward to replacing my bath/shower assembly. I will watch this video as I go.. and I will let you know how I did.. the great camera work .. will lead the way !!
Hands down the best video on this subject.
Used to use electrical tape on cuts. Now always keep el cheapo insta-glue handy. Quick clean of the wound and seal it up. Apply few more times during the day and the following days as well. Skip any infections and I guarantee in 4 days or better it'll be just like new and possibly no scar. I swear by it.
Jay Bud , haha, you noticed that tape huh
@24:27. Seems like this is perfect reason to keep sharkbite type caps on hand (for pex or copper) as you can easily pop them off when it is time to finish without wasting any materials.
LOve those caps. You can even install when lines are pressurized
Forgot to mention, love your TH-cam videos.
Do you need to fit water hammer arresters when fitting a new shower with pex pipes? Excellent informative videos, thanks from Orleans...
Not at all. the pipe can expand and contract so it makes no noise. Cheers to Orleans. Now is that Orleans Ottawa or Orleans , Orleans!
Orleans Ottawa, your local!@@HomeRenoVisionDIY
Good video so different from over here in uk we use speed fit are valves are different to yours anyway good tips l did learn from this video thanks
Cheers Shaun, and Cheers to the U.K.
When trying to hold a Pex ring in place, I take a pair of pliers and give the ring a slight squeeze and it will stay in place so you can use both hands to clamp it with the Pex tool. Just a slight squeeze, do not warp or bend it.
11:10 better to put the solder on from the opposite side, so you know it is heated all the way through
Thank you for the extremely helpful and informative video. Now I am certain that I want to use Pex in my shower value upgrade!
How to set up a router
very helpful information. thanks for making it so easy and clear. now down ti work
Sweating is the term for connecting copper pipe, sweating the joint ,wiping your joints after you sweat them prevents the copper turning green do to flux oils deposits. You do a great job!!!
Thank you for your videos. My question is what are those capped pipes parallel to each hot and cold for. Are those necessary to keep? Thank you for your time.
Wish that I had seen this compilation a few weeks ago! I renovated our bath and used 1/2 inch pex throughout. I was bitten by the water coming from the shower head when the diverter was in the tub position. I had to open the wall back up and replace the drop to the tub spout with 3/4 pex -- problem solved.
Jeff good job, I like the way you work, well done
You could be an instructor at a tech school. Your great at explaining/teaching everything.
Tank's for this video. Do you need 2 T to make air colums that prevent water to make noise (bang) when you shut off valves ?
Excellent information. Love to learn from the expert like you.. I will give you 10 stars.
Good video, but you miss one other option. These days there are great epoxy's or glues for copper to join copper or brass fittings. What is your thought on this technique. Most homeowners won't feel comfortable with a torch inside a wall to solder fittings inside a wall.
Thank you for the step by step instructions. I am going to attempt to upgrade my shower plumbing etc. I am certain that I can do it myself now. Much appreciated
This cat is the best on yt!
Whoa they have air chambers on both the hot and the cold. I am learning about this now because my washer makes a real loud bang when it shuts off.
My fav home renovation channel
thank you for sharing, very helpful to see different systems. It helped to see the similarities in different installations. solidified the plumbing essentials. thanks!
Glad to help. Cheers!
If you were to build your dream home what kind of material would you use.. Copper vs Pex? Brass vs PVC?
I clean new construction homes for various builders in my area (MI) and they all use Pex, even the custom builders use Pex... The only thing that changes from builder to builder is the short section where the lines reduce down, the area closest to the fixtures (idk what it's called). Some builders switch from Pex to brass and some go to pvc. 🤷♀️
The tips you help us learn is pretty helpful when I never did this kind of stuff before.😏👍😊
In the last segment at 1:01:55 when using the pump pliers to install the threaded fittings, if you hold the pump pliers in the opposite direction, with the lower jaw facing the direction of rotation, you will find that the pliers are less likely to slip.
I found this guy when I needed to install floor jacks, and now I find him again in my bathroom.
Thank You for your videos, you gave me the confidence to tackle a project on my own. Details are important and you do cover the necessary.
Thanks Wayne, I am sure you will be fine.
I love your videos but can you do one with pvc piping? I'm doing a renovation on my bathroom bath tub and i want to if I'm doing it correctly. Thanks.
I’m having problems with pvc also, my water pressure is so weak. Also read recently that pvc is bad for hot water because it breaks down. Thinking of switching back to galvanized pipes or pex.
@@HighPriest1776 don't use galvanized
I thought flux was an acidic paste to help clean and bond the metal solder and copper together. I've seen other plumbing videos say that you should wipe off the residual flux from the joints after soldering with a clean wet cloth to avoid the corrosive effects of the flux. Thoughts?
I have never seen flux be the reason for a leak. a little green stuff but no problem there. feel free to wipe it if you want to!
If my shower/tub valve installation highly suggest using copper for the tub/shower spout , i should listen to it right >? (It mentions everything else can be PEX but from valve to both spout , needs copper apparently) I guess i will learn to solder copper pipes if i have to (great ty to you for showing us how to in multiple videos)
for what it is worth--I worked with a plumber who always used spool wicking or a spool of thin cotton thread made for this--he wound would take an end of the thread and pull it to the end of the fitting over the threads and wind it over the piece he pulled and into the thread grooves and then he used liquid Teflon paste that remained flexible. He had seen Teflon tape joints leak after years of being in service requiring repair . The old school pipe joints done this way have lasted decades and never leaked. To some extent they are self repairing because the cotton expands as it gets wet. During a restaurant remodel, we did many hundreds if not thousands of copper joints this way and never had a leak. It took longer for each joint but this is a time proven method and the time required to sweat a copper connection open and repair the thread seal would have been substantial.
If I were just using Teflon tape, I would first apply liquid Teflon and the tape over it. Run the tape so that tightening the joint will tighten the tape and make sure that it is not pushing ahead of the threads but being integrated into the threads. If not start over.
I'm not the best plumber,but regarding to the way you try cooling them pipes,even i'm doing it sometimes,we should never cool down apupe solder with flux,or wet rag,it violently cools the solder,that contracts it and cracks may appear in it,causing leaks...lovely video though.
Thank Mr. Jeff. Good info and good videos. I really appreciate.
Gosh we know nothing of plumbing but desperately need to do this in our existing shower tub. We have to replace the entire cartridges in the valves every few months and we have what goes from a steady drip to a steady stream. Our home was built in 1973. One company quoted us $3,000 because they said they would go in through the closet in the adjoining bedroom rather than destroying our existing tile in the shower tub location. We can’t afford $3,000. Would this procedure be the same if going in through the back? Any help you can give would be much appreciated. You are Brilliant 👏👍