Hi Clive, a squirt of compressed air, skilfully aimed between the silicone mould and the casting itself will almost invariably eject the casting from the mould. You can likewise use a jet of water, or even at a pinch, use WD-40 etc, but that would leave you having to wash and clean the mould. We have a small (tiny) portable compressor for just this kind of application. 👍
Just use a UV led, much less visible light bleed, Also could do the resin in two passes, mold led in the raw resin (light guide), then recast with the glow resin mix to jacket the outside. can do a thinner outer layer that way that is not as opaque so can use more pigment, and the light would be distributed more evenly
You could also lightly sand the led to diffuse the light more. Or another idea.... use clear for the main mold. Remove, and add scratches, or indents and fill with the glow mix. That would make a unique effect. Think foxfire fungus.
As someone with a decently bright monitor, the light warning is always appreciated, Thank you. I just shut my eyes for a second while my screen goes white and I don't then feel dazzled.
Whenever BC says it's time for the explosion-containment pie dish (ECPD), I immediately think - oh yes, this has to be watched. Also, I LOVE the x-ray machine. Full marks.
I need to make a couple of them with blood red fluorescent powder/resin. They fit nicely to my LARP chaos. You always give me ideas, the repurposed flame effect lamp was really great at last years LARP. It got used in a friends staff. Everyone was blown away by the effect!
Try using a UV LED and then hook it up to a circuit that would pulse it on and off with the timing being based on how long it takes the glowing pigment to loose luminosity. Get enough of them set up independent of each other and you will end up with this magical lightning bug effect.
Pulse the UV LED with a simulated heartbeat! Or even some sort of heartbeat measurement in a pendant chain? That sort of thing would sell by the hundred at festivals, when they eventually return.
I've been watching so many Big Clive videos I've learned to automatically shut my eyes at the appropriate moments and open them again after the lights go back on. Makes for a bit of audience participation rather than just passive viewing.
I mixed some clear silicone conformal coating (MG Chemicals with UV tracer #422B) with resin. It made a tough flexible translucent compound that was very UV fluorescent. Not sure if will be stable over time. Some of the silicone liquid dripped onto my lap and promptly dried leaving no trace until I was in a bar where the UV spot lights made my crotch illuminate the spattered mess for all to see.
Reminds me of something related I did a few decades ago. I took a round incandescent bulb and spray painted it with luminous paint I had left over from my copper cactus antenna. The result was convenient for bedroom use, since it would be bright enough to find one’s way to bed after turning off the switch by the door. It would recharge almost instantly, and seemed to glow longer than it would take to get to sleep.
Thank you again BC. I'm never really sure what I like more - what I'm learning or the running commentary (sometimes about things general). No matter, should you ever visit Dublin, I'll buy you a pint (ok, several!).
Might be interesting to use blue glow-in-the-dark powder, along with a constant red LED and a periodically pulsed UV LED to energize the glow. Might get a nice purple blend. Another idea would be to put the LEDs in a clear obelisk, then use a slightly larger mold to cast a thin-walled glow obelisk around the clear one.
I love these glowing resin projects. While it's not up my alley so to speak, it is still loads of fun to watch and learn about as well. Thanks as always, Clive!
I really love these glow in the dark projects! They should meld well into the background for my nieces ghost hunting adventures, can you imagine some of these flickering about in a haunted house, it would creep the bejesus out of the rubes who are paying her to clear their home of spirit infestations. As you can tell, I don't buy into her spirit beliefs, nor her witch craft, however I do enjoy making toys for her coven and their spirit hunting.
As a teenager in the '70s , I got a resin casting kit for Christmas ( when mixed, the stuff got hot and stunk to the high heavens. Not a indoor thing). I'd cast colored grain - of - wheat bulbs, or NE-2 bulbs/ resistor into it...LEDs were dim things at that time. Looked cool in a dark room..
I would love to hear more stories about technology they use at Disney, i once had a peak behind the scenes of “happily ever after” in Orlando, its stunning what systems they are running. I am analysing each new effect system they use since i was 14, it is just facinating how they have so much custom systems running on a daily basis, from weather stations that individualy override firing signals for each of the flamemaster units to their camouflage systems for the 18 Christie Projectors they use for the 3d mapping...
I wonder if a thin coating of silicone oil/vaseline would make demoulding the resin easier... Also, since the LED is so bright, I'm curious what the other phosphors would look like in comparison the green.
Hi Clive, it crossed my mind while watching your video that a filament LED might look cool and would light the crystal through it's entire length. I don't know if there are different colours of filaments, but if you got a cool white one, you could maybe make a crystal out of the cobalt blue pigment and then current limit the LEDs for better battery life and a dim glow. It might have a ghostly deep blue glow. Another idea I had was to make a pendant, with a little box at the back of the neck string or chain (or wire), with a sound sensor circuit in it that, if you're in a disco, would make your pendant pulse to the music. The little box would also be a great place to put a flat LIon battery and a small USB port for charging, rather than a 2032. Great videos! Cheers
Nice. I do like the idea of a self-charging glowing pebble or pendant. You could probably get a continuous glow for several days or weeks from one battery.
you could use conductive thread fitted inside paracord, going up to the LED pendant, and on the side that has the clip that closes the necklace, you have your battery. you might even add a small circuit to blink the LED every so often (you already have a battery holder there, a small SMD PCB won't add much more clutter there).
I thought that, but then I thought it'd be a hassle to machine. But why not use the resin to glue a short length of perspex rod onto the end of the LED and cast that? Or a clear (or maybe coloured) drinking straw with the end glued up. Anything to sort of act like a fibre optic. It'd save on the amount of resin you needed too!
@@Obliteratu You wouldn't have to machine it, cast it with a hole using e.g. a length of round section silicone rubber down the middle. You could either cast it slightly undersize and then clean up the first few mm with a drill bit to get a nice fit to the LED, otherwise cast it slightly oversize and glue the LED in.
Given how common wireless charging pads have become, perhaps those pebbles (or similar ones) could become WIRELESS LED Glow-In-The-Dark Nuclear Stones Of *DOOM!*
Never seen a Qi coil that super small, maybe a medallion under your pebble/necklace/obelisk? And hey if you can buy a pack of coils from China for a few bucks why not chase your happy?
@@hotmailcompany52 Yeah, but Qi's THE standard for something this cheap and this tatty. You can get chargers on-market for a few bags of chips, or even for free if you were around when Qi was starting to be a thing in restaurant establishments providing them...
I wonder how it would look if you used a green LED inside, with a 555 to pulse it slowly. I'd image you could set the clock rate fairly slow, with a capacitor on the output in an astable configuration to create a relatively slow sawtooth pattern as the capacitor charges, then slowly discharges creating a neat breathing effect in obelisk.
Cool project. We all need little distractions to pass the time at home. I have been building a little oven for curing things with a PID controller and an SSR.
After seeing the end result, I wonder what it would be like if you chose to do a redux of this with a short bit of clear straw and some optical fibre soaked in penetrating / thinned resin with a silicone bung to keep it from spilling out the bottom of the straw, then fitting that assembly over an LED in place of the bung to use as a light pipe which would go throughout the entire obelisk. Knowing how fibre lights typically work I think it could be something worth doing just to make the entire thing light up. That, and a 3D-printed base (A cylindrical one would be nice) to fit in a small switch which would be soldered and sandwiched together.
To release the resin out of the mold, you could use an air pump or compressor, with one of the needles that would normally used to pump up balls, an shove it between mold and resin. If you have that stuff lying around it would be worth a try.
You could use a can of air duster, stuff the hose in the mold and blast it right out. As a second thought you could probably wrap the base of the led in aluminum tape to cast the light more to the tip.
I wonder what would happen if you embedded some short bits of optical fiber into the resin off the end of the LED. Wouldn't get a super clean coupling but might spread out the light a bit more.
It almost looks like you might be able to limit the powder more and allow the resin to be even more translucent. I would think you could reach a happy medium between powder and resin whereby the resin is as translucent as possible with the added powder so you will see more emitted light from the powder without it blocking itself. You could also try casting or gluing a light pipe onto the LED or using an LED filament to distribute the light more evenly for a more even effect.
You could extend the LED with a rod of clear plastic before embedding it in the pigmented resin. This might make the light spread down the length of the "crystal" further.
Edit: Clive, you built a resistance box for finding resistance value for a project. I need to have a "load box" that I can use to test old house wiring. A loose connection will pass 110vac but not 15 amps. Since some outlets are daisy chained from the panel a load (my portable heater) can be plugged in and the current draw is then recorded. Let's say it draws 11 amps at the first outlet of the daisy chain. The next is also 11 amps while the third one is 2 amps. There is a problem somewhere between outlet 2 and 3. Kind of a quick and dirty test. Is there a push to test load box? I need something better than using a 1500 watt portable heater as a load with a clamp-on ammeter. Have you made one on your channel? Or, is there a resistance box with an ammeter built in available from ebay or Amazon? Thanks
You could try dusting the mold with the power before pouring the resin. The craftsman TH-cam channel did this with glitter and got a great surface finish with a clear centre.
Someone has probably mentioned this already, but I would think shooting some compressed air down into the mold it should let you pull it out fairly easily. The same idea behind sliding rubber bike handles on the bars.
In the past I glued a blue led into an orange highlighter cap that was also made by fluorescent material and it converted the blue light into orange light. Like a LED phosphorus! You can also make this effect by covering a piece of paper with any highlighter and then place in all over the diode. It glows green, orange or whatever the color of the highlighter is. Be careful though, certain highlighters are not actually made of fluorescent dyes, so check it before 😉
Clive, an idea for you...create a circuit board with surface mount LEDs then put little dollops of resin charged with glow in the dark pigment on each LED to create an interesting canvas. Perhaps BCDC logos where your eyes and beard glow? :-)))))
I wonder if you could use a syringe filled with air and a hypodermic needle to extract the obelisk. Slide the needle down the side between the mold and the object, and inject some air.
nicely done bud looks cool u could also have something like a clear straw glued to the led with the other end sealed so u could get the illumination from the led more uniform if u get what i mean
Pretty chunky led used, why not the wee dot ones the pico leds, then put in two or three in a row? nice little pwm on a slow long cycle of gradual increase/decrease in intensity...
This is something very close to what i want to do with a skeletal dragon i have outside. Wanted to get a small solar spot light from Dollar Tree (our poundland) Replace it with a UV LED that would trigger periodically through the night and recharge the pigment.
wondered what makes them leds flicker, dealz sells packs of small candle lights, flickering led inside for the flame, cr2032 and just the led cracked a few open
If the pump LED is happy flickering along on 0.3mA, I can't help wondering how long we could run one off a lithium thionyl chloride - or other high energy density chemistry cell (or a stack of coin cells?) all permanently molded into resin as a mystery item. With a 12A/hr ER26720 format cell, we should get 40,000 hours of continuous run time or 4.5 years...
My plan is to 3d print something in clear filament. I can make light channels in the model and drop a UV led in the end. For the glow in the dark I think you might be wasting it in the resin itself. Instead I was thinking a clearcoat on the outside and then sprinkle the pigment in the wet clear coat.
Hey Clive! What if you were to do a slush casting of a high concentration of glow powder in a thin layer, and then fill it with clear resin and embed the led in that. I imagine it would be a much more uniform glow. Also maybe a uv led so the led won't emit much visible light but still charge the glow powder?
Could you dremel a 5mm hole for a led into the base of a pebble? Would like to see a UV led + joule thief + with variable resistor connected to a pebble.
Clive, I wonder if you have any more details on this particular 2 part epoxy resin. I want to know if it is a conductor or an insulator of heat. Any ideas???
What is with dust/powder of that pebbles if you breath or eat that, will it just come out after some time ? You could cut/saw those pebbles in half and glue them in different colors on a board with some normal half stones for a wall deco.. ...i'd imagine quite a surprise in the lab if your corona swab or snot would glow in the dark... edit: perhaps drop a small chain together with the led ready wired up in the resin ? edit2: next time hit the resin/mold up with a pink vibrator to the side, might help the bubbles get out. edit3: perhaps two 3mm leds parallel+stacked to get in deeper in the crystal? The cr2032 should fit into the larger pebble in a smd holder, take out to switch off...
A shot of compressed air down the side of the piece and the form may work. You don't have to jam the nozzle down in, just direct the airflow down the side of the piece.
I’m imagining a string of UV led pebbles of this stuff connected to a solar powered board that does a super slow blink, like 1 second on 20 seconds off say, you could well have a practical path guide for a dark garden that could easily go all night, and look pretty to boot.
Thanks for the link to Pnau, Clive. A group I'd not heard of. As you say, a lot of work into making the video. One track I had to mention, ''In My Head'', there are elements of those old 3D pictures incorporated in the video. Have a look when you get time, and see if you can see the ''holographic'' effect. All the Best
If you can get your little wooden stick between the cured part and the silicone mould, then sprinkle talcum powder down there that may help in the future. Where possible use an airline to blow it around.
For the next time, try using a can of compressed air (you know what I mean, those cans for dusting of pcb etc) stick the hose of the can between the mold and the pendant an force it out. Works fine. Shure you can use a air compressor but the can method is suitable for everyone.
i do some resin casting and have very similar moulds.. its just a question of patience.. wriggle it around to loosen the sides and let air get behind it.. squeezing from the bottom repeatedly while stretching and twisting the silicone lets it slide out bit by bit.. :-)
I dunno if this would work but it could be worth trying. You could prep the mould and put Vaseline inside the mould or use an air duster to try force the mould off the resin. That was my immediate ideas when I would it being problematic to demould.
I wonder if you can't just insert an injection needle in the underside of the mold. Maybe the air inside an empty syringe might be enough to clear the mold from the epoxy. The hole that the needle leaves should be small enough that it closes up on it's own so you can reuse the mold.
Great little project Sir Clive, may try this myself. Also, tried to listen to the tracks you mentioned but your links are bad, they’re not going where they should. Thought I’d let you know. Cheers.
Silicone moulds are often cut down one side in a zig zag pattern to aid removal, elastic bands can be used to hold it together I wonder if you made a bed of uv led's and placed the pebbles on top. Talking about obelisk The creator of asterix and obelisk died recently, one of the characters in 'asterix and the chariot race' was named 'coronavirus' (wiki)
Hi Clive, a squirt of compressed air, skilfully aimed between the silicone mould and the casting itself will almost invariably eject the casting from the mould. You can likewise use a jet of water, or even at a pinch, use WD-40 etc, but that would leave you having to wash and clean the mould. We have a small (tiny) portable compressor for just this kind of application. 👍
Just use a UV led, much less visible light bleed, Also could do the resin in two passes, mold led in the raw resin (light guide), then recast with the glow resin mix to jacket the outside. can do a thinner outer layer that way that is not as opaque so can use more pigment, and the light would be distributed more evenly
Aye, sounds like it’d give great results
I thought the same.
You could also lightly sand the led to diffuse the light more.
Or another idea.... use clear for the main mold. Remove, and add scratches, or indents and fill with the glow mix. That would make a unique effect. Think foxfire fungus.
Could you find a UV flickering LED or would the flickering component need to be soldered together? It would be dope if there are flickering UV LEDs.
Lighthouseleds dot com - 12v flickering candle purple led is one source. Though they are listed out of stock at the moment.
As someone with a decently bright monitor, the light warning is always appreciated, Thank you. I just shut my eyes for a second while my screen goes white and I don't then feel dazzled.
I always turn down the brightness on my monitors. Default setting is far too bright for comfortable daily viewing
Maybe try a UV laser in the same mixture, or a UV LED, less "light" from the led, more from the glowing resin.
That's a really nice idea.
where can you even buy CW UV laser? I mean the true UV ones not 405nm found on ebay
A UV led that's barely going with foil wrapped around the side of the led. Still love it.
Epic idea!
Good luck finding a cancer laser (UV) for under $450 that is legit
Never grow tired of little projects like this Clive, a creative mind is never bored.
Can't decide which theme of Clive's videos I like best: Pink and Deadly or Arts and Crafts
Got to be pink and deadly - surely?
Why not both
Whenever BC says it's time for the explosion-containment pie dish (ECPD), I immediately think - oh yes, this has to be watched. Also, I LOVE the x-ray machine. Full marks.
I need to make a couple of them with blood red fluorescent powder/resin. They fit nicely to my LARP chaos. You always give me ideas, the repurposed flame effect lamp was really great at last years LARP. It got used in a friends staff. Everyone was blown away by the effect!
Try using a UV LED and then hook it up to a circuit that would pulse it on and off with the timing being based on how long it takes the glowing pigment to loose luminosity.
Get enough of them set up independent of each other and you will end up with this magical lightning bug effect.
I was juuuuust gonna say that
A green Led would use much less energy and be more consistent
Pulse the UV LED with a simulated heartbeat! Or even some sort of heartbeat measurement in a pendant chain? That sort of thing would sell by the hundred at festivals, when they eventually return.
I've been watching so many Big Clive videos I've learned to automatically shut my eyes at the appropriate moments and open them again after the lights go back on. Makes for a bit of audience participation rather than just passive viewing.
you could also dust the mould with the pigment so the outermost part of the crystal gets a bit more glow
I mixed some clear silicone conformal coating (MG Chemicals with UV tracer #422B) with resin. It made a tough flexible translucent compound that was very UV fluorescent. Not sure if will be stable over time.
Some of the silicone liquid dripped onto my lap and promptly dried leaving no trace until I was in a bar where the UV spot lights made my crotch illuminate the spattered mess for all to see.
Reminds me of something related I did a few decades ago. I took a round incandescent bulb and spray painted it with luminous paint I had left over from my copper cactus antenna. The result was convenient for bedroom use, since it would be bright enough to find one’s way to bed after turning off the switch by the door. It would recharge almost instantly, and seemed to glow longer than it would take to get to sleep.
Thank you again BC. I'm never really sure what I like more - what I'm learning or the running commentary (sometimes about things general). No matter, should you ever visit Dublin, I'll buy you a pint (ok, several!).
Might be interesting to use blue glow-in-the-dark powder, along with a constant red LED and a periodically pulsed UV LED to energize the glow. Might get a nice purple blend.
Another idea would be to put the LEDs in a clear obelisk, then use a slightly larger mold to cast a thin-walled glow obelisk around the clear one.
I love these glowing resin projects.
While it's not up my alley so to speak, it is still loads of fun to watch and learn about as well.
Thanks as always, Clive!
Thanks Clive, very illuminating. Stay safe.
Hey Clive, to get my own castings out, I use my compresed air. One blow on the edge of mold and resin and there you go.
I really love these glow in the dark projects! They should meld well into the background for my nieces ghost hunting adventures, can you imagine some of these flickering about in a haunted house, it would creep the bejesus out of the rubes who are paying her to clear their home of spirit infestations. As you can tell, I don't buy into her spirit beliefs, nor her witch craft, however I do enjoy making toys for her coven and their spirit hunting.
As a teenager in the '70s , I got a resin casting kit for Christmas ( when mixed, the stuff got hot and stunk to the high heavens. Not a indoor thing).
I'd cast colored grain - of - wheat bulbs, or NE-2 bulbs/ resistor into it...LEDs were dim things at that time. Looked cool in a dark room..
You can get a silicone release spray for these things, hopefully it helps
I would love to hear more stories about technology they use at Disney, i once had a peak behind the scenes of “happily ever after” in Orlando, its stunning what systems they are running. I am analysing each new effect system they use since i was 14, it is just facinating how they have so much custom systems running on a daily basis, from weather stations that individualy override firing signals for each of the flamemaster units to their camouflage systems for the 18 Christie Projectors they use for the 3d mapping...
I wonder if a thin coating of silicone oil/vaseline would make demoulding the resin easier... Also, since the LED is so bright, I'm curious what the other phosphors would look like in comparison the green.
Looking great
Fun project
Thanks for sharing 👍😁
Black and gold - blast from the past and you just made my day sir! Stay safe!
Big Clive Sir ty for keeping my mind off all what we are going through.. cheers
Hi Clive, it crossed my mind while watching your video that a filament LED might look cool and would light the crystal through it's entire length. I don't know if there are different colours of filaments, but if you got a cool white one, you could maybe make a crystal out of the cobalt blue pigment and then current limit the LEDs for better battery life and a dim glow. It might have a ghostly deep blue glow. Another idea I had was to make a pendant, with a little box at the back of the neck string or chain (or wire), with a sound sensor circuit in it that, if you're in a disco, would make your pendant pulse to the music. The little box would also be a great place to put a flat LIon battery and a small USB port for charging, rather than a 2032. Great videos! Cheers
Nice. I do like the idea of a self-charging glowing pebble or pendant. You could probably get a continuous glow for several days or weeks from one battery.
Sam Sparro! That song pops into my head from time to time. Calling it retro threw me off, crazy that it's 12 years old now.
you could use conductive thread fitted inside paracord, going up to the LED pendant, and on the side that has the clip that closes the necklace, you have your battery. you might even add a small circuit to blink the LED every so often (you already have a battery holder there, a small SMD PCB won't add much more clutter there).
Casting the obelisk with a hole down the middle and fitting the led at the end could give a more even distribution of light.
I thought that, but then I thought it'd be a hassle to machine. But why not use the resin to glue a short length of perspex rod onto the end of the LED and cast that? Or a clear (or maybe coloured) drinking straw with the end glued up. Anything to sort of act like a fibre optic. It'd save on the amount of resin you needed too!
@@Obliteratu You wouldn't have to machine it, cast it with a hole using e.g. a length of round section silicone rubber down the middle. You could either cast it slightly undersize and then clean up the first few mm with a drill bit to get a nice fit to the LED, otherwise cast it slightly oversize and glue the LED in.
Seems like a can of dusting air’s tube could fit down the side of the mold and maybe the air could push the obelisk out?
I was going to suggest that too. It probably won't push it out but might make enough of an air cushion to allow it to be pulled out easily
Given how common wireless charging pads have become, perhaps those pebbles (or similar ones) could become WIRELESS LED Glow-In-The-Dark Nuclear Stones Of *DOOM!*
But would you really want to waste an induction coil on that for the dumb novelty of a Qi-powered glowing ornament?
Never seen a Qi coil that super small, maybe a medallion under your pebble/necklace/obelisk?
And hey if you can buy a pack of coils from China for a few bucks why not chase your happy?
@@bluephreakr Doesn't have to be Qi for wireless power. There's a tone of different options.
@@hotmailcompany52 Yeah, but Qi's THE standard for something this cheap and this tatty. You can get chargers on-market for a few bags of chips, or even for free if you were around when Qi was starting to be a thing in restaurant establishments providing them...
I wonder how it would look if you used a green LED inside, with a 555 to pulse it slowly. I'd image you could set the clock rate fairly slow, with a capacitor on the output in an astable configuration to create a relatively slow sawtooth pattern as the capacitor charges, then slowly discharges creating a neat breathing effect in obelisk.
Cool project. We all need little distractions to pass the time at home. I have been building a little oven for curing things with a PID controller and an SSR.
After seeing the end result, I wonder what it would be like if you chose to do a redux of this with a short bit of clear straw and some optical fibre soaked in penetrating / thinned resin with a silicone bung to keep it from spilling out the bottom of the straw, then fitting that assembly over an LED in place of the bung to use as a light pipe which would go throughout the entire obelisk. Knowing how fibre lights typically work I think it could be something worth doing just to make the entire thing light up.
That, and a 3D-printed base (A cylindrical one would be nice) to fit in a small switch which would be soldered and sandwiched together.
That's my dearest Clive back with another little project. ♥
To break the suction in the mold you could slide a WD40 straw down the side?
...or a toothpick...
Clive, I don't know whether to "hunt you down" or "pat you on the back".
I can say "thank you for the nice project and video.
Sam sparrow B&G was our first song at our wedding.. great music..
Thanks for the video links! "Go Bang" is one of my favorites.
To release the resin out of the mold, you could use an air pump or compressor, with one of the needles that would normally used to pump up balls, an shove it between mold and resin. If you have that stuff lying around it would be worth a try.
Ol' Sparrow is a tune for thinking people
You could use a can of air duster, stuff the hose in the mold and blast it right out. As a second thought you could probably wrap the base of the led in aluminum tape to cast the light more to the tip.
Clive, it resembles a pulsating alien phallus from an abduction scenario....
The pulsating descriptive is all you but fair enough 😂
I would ask how you know that... but you might *tell* me...
@@markfergerson2145 The one they got me with was much bigger and brighter.
@@faumnamara5181 I knew it I knew it, I FUCKING KNEW IT!!!
Knowing Clive that was totally unintentional, of course
@7:44 what is the addressing LED technology Clive mentions? WH... something
WS2812B addressable LEDs?
World needs a led pebble that can be powered/charged wirelessly :-)
I wonder what would happen if you embedded some short bits of optical fiber into the resin off the end of the LED. Wouldn't get a super clean coupling but might spread out the light a bit more.
You should try some 356 nm UV LEDs. They don't output much visible light, only a ghostly whitish glow.
It almost looks like you might be able to limit the powder more and allow the resin to be even more translucent. I would think you could reach a happy medium between powder and resin whereby the resin is as translucent as possible with the added powder so you will see more emitted light from the powder without it blocking itself. You could also try casting or gluing a light pipe onto the LED or using an LED filament to distribute the light more evenly for a more even effect.
You could extend the LED with a rod of clear plastic before embedding it in the pigmented resin. This might make the light spread down the length of the "crystal" further.
Would the powder glow from an electron beam?
Edit:
Clive, you built a resistance box for finding resistance value for a project.
I need to have a "load box" that I can use to test old house wiring.
A loose connection will pass 110vac but not 15 amps.
Since some outlets are daisy chained from the panel a load (my portable heater) can be plugged in and the current draw is then recorded.
Let's say it draws 11 amps at the first outlet of the daisy chain.
The next is also 11 amps while the third one is 2 amps.
There is a problem somewhere between outlet 2 and 3.
Kind of a quick and dirty test.
Is there a push to test load box?
I need something better than using a 1500 watt portable heater as a load with a clamp-on ammeter.
Have you made one on your channel?
Or, is there a resistance box with an ammeter built in available from ebay or Amazon?
Thanks
I could use a power usage meter to see the amps but I would still need the heater to draw the current.
You could try dusting the mold with the power before pouring the resin. The craftsman TH-cam channel did this with glitter and got a great surface finish with a clear centre.
Someone has probably mentioned this already, but I would think shooting some compressed air down into the mold it should let you pull it out fairly easily. The same idea behind sliding rubber bike handles on the bars.
The Sam Sparro vid is awesomely cute.
In the past I glued a blue led into an orange highlighter cap that was also made by fluorescent material and it converted the blue light into orange light. Like a LED phosphorus! You can also make this effect by covering a piece of paper with any highlighter and then place in all over the diode. It glows green, orange or whatever the color of the highlighter is. Be careful though, certain highlighters are not actually made of fluorescent dyes, so check it before 😉
soccerball fill nozzle + air. ezpz. (we do that for when we do custom parts for our old buggy beetle. (light lens tend to break a ton)
Clive, an idea for you...create a circuit board with surface mount LEDs then put little dollops of resin charged with glow in the dark pigment on each LED to create an interesting canvas. Perhaps BCDC logos where your eyes and beard glow? :-)))))
I wonder if you could use a syringe filled with air and a hypodermic needle to extract the obelisk. Slide the needle down the side between the mold and the object, and inject some air.
Use soapy water (water and dish soap) as lubricant when pulling out resin from the silicone mold. Works extremely well!
nicely done bud looks cool u could also have something like a clear straw glued to the led with the other end sealed so u could get the illumination from the led more uniform if u get what i mean
My D&D wizard needs a magical obelisk 😎
We definitely need to know more about your time doing spectromatic. Perhaps the subject for a Clive Live?
I make things like this quite often with uv cure resins, leds and pigment powders as well :).
Pretty chunky led used, why not the wee dot ones the pico leds, then put in two or three in a row? nice little pwm on a slow long cycle of gradual increase/decrease in intensity...
Now I'm wondering if you could get fluorescent pigments and embed a UV/black-light LED inside.
I think they used stuff like that for the special FX on Hawk the Slayer :)
Great! Now I simply have to go listen to the music.
Wonder how difficult it would be to drill a hole in the pebble just large enough to fit a LED?
This is something very close to what i want to do with a skeletal dragon i have outside. Wanted to get a small solar spot light from Dollar Tree (our poundland) Replace it with a UV LED that would trigger periodically through the night and recharge the pigment.
Enjoyed the hell out of that Go Bang track. Now I've got my Big Clive official glow pendants im ready to commence my one man isolation rave. Cheers! 😁
wondered what makes them leds flicker, dealz sells packs of small candle lights, flickering led inside for the flame, cr2032 and just the led cracked a few open
If the pump LED is happy flickering along on 0.3mA, I can't help wondering how long we could run one off a lithium thionyl chloride - or other high energy density chemistry cell (or a stack of coin cells?) all permanently molded into resin as a mystery item. With a 12A/hr ER26720 format cell, we should get 40,000 hours of continuous run time or 4.5 years...
My plan is to 3d print something in clear filament. I can make light channels in the model and drop a UV led in the end. For the glow in the dark I think you might be wasting it in the resin itself. Instead I was thinking a clearcoat on the outside and then sprinkle the pigment in the wet clear coat.
Hey Clive! What if you were to do a slush casting of a high concentration of glow powder in a thin layer, and then fill it with clear resin and embed the led in that. I imagine it would be a much more uniform glow. Also maybe a uv led so the led won't emit much visible light but still charge the glow powder?
Could you dremel a 5mm hole for a led into the base of a pebble?
Would like to see a UV led + joule thief + with variable resistor connected to a pebble.
Clive, I wonder if you have any more details on this particular 2 part epoxy resin. I want to know if it is a conductor or an insulator of heat. Any ideas???
I wonder if you were to stick an air nozzle like for a basketball pump into the mold if it would just pop right out?
I have heard that using PAM cooking spray helps as a mold release. Not sure if it affects the end product though...
A completely sealed shake light (wiki Mechanically powered flashlight) glowstone would be awesome. Love your channel Clive!
What is with dust/powder of that pebbles if you breath or eat that, will it just come out after some time ?
You could cut/saw those pebbles in half and glue them in different colors on a board with some normal half stones for a wall deco..
...i'd imagine quite a surprise in the lab if your corona swab or snot would glow in the dark...
edit: perhaps drop a small chain together with the led ready wired up in the resin ?
edit2: next time hit the resin/mold up with a pink vibrator to the side, might help the bubbles get out.
edit3: perhaps two 3mm leds parallel+stacked to get in deeper in the crystal?
The cr2032 should fit into the larger pebble in a smd holder, take out to switch off...
A shot of compressed air down the side of the piece and the form may work. You don't have to jam the nozzle down in, just direct the airflow down the side of the piece.
Wouldn't dropping the mold into hot water for a bit make it easier to remove?
I’m imagining a string of UV led pebbles of this stuff connected to a solar powered board that does a super slow blink, like 1 second on 20 seconds off say, you could well have a practical path guide for a dark garden that could easily go all night, and look pretty to boot.
Thanks for the link to Pnau, Clive. A group I'd not heard of. As you say, a lot of work into making the video. One track I had to mention, ''In My Head'', there are elements of those old 3D pictures incorporated in the video. Have a look when you get time, and see if you can see the ''holographic'' effect. All the Best
If you can get your little wooden stick between the cured part and the silicone mould, then sprinkle talcum powder down there that may help in the future.
Where possible use an airline to blow it around.
I think from all the things you can illuminate, selenite is the best. Quite cheap, in different shapes, and diffuses led light perfectly even.
You could use the small tubes you get with aerosol cans to push into the bottom of the mold from inside.
Inject water between the mould and the obelisk with a syringe to break the seal between the resin and the mould?
Nice Clive! ...I´d like to dive in to the resin-thing. Inspiring! :)
I came here for the electronics but the "Pnau - Go Bang" recommendation is a blinder. Thanks.
For the next time, try using a can of compressed air (you know what I mean, those cans for dusting of pcb etc) stick the hose of the can between the mold and the pendant an force it out. Works fine. Shure you can use a air compressor but the can method is suitable for everyone.
i do some resin casting and have very similar moulds.. its just a question of patience.. wriggle it around to loosen the sides and let air get behind it.. squeezing from the bottom repeatedly while stretching and twisting the silicone lets it slide out bit by bit.. :-)
I dunno if this would work but it could be worth trying. You could prep the mould and put Vaseline inside the mould or use an air duster to try force the mould off the resin.
That was my immediate ideas when I would it being problematic to demould.
Hello Clive I was me making this I would extend the led leads and shove the led more towards the tip of the mold
Remember when you made a test tube lamp with a whole bunch of rgb fading leds in it? You could put 3 or so in a row in this size crystal.
wonder if you have those acrylic rods, then use the rods as a core so that the led can diffuse through the entire length of the obelisk
I wonder if you can't just insert an injection needle in the underside of the mold. Maybe the air inside an empty syringe might be enough to clear the mold from the epoxy. The hole that the needle leaves should be small enough that it closes up on it's own so you can reuse the mold.
Great little project Sir Clive, may try this myself. Also, tried to listen to the tracks you mentioned but your links are bad, they’re not going where they should. Thought I’d let you know. Cheers.
Silicone moulds are often cut down one side in a zig zag pattern to aid removal, elastic bands can be used to hold it together
I wonder if you made a bed of uv led's and placed the pebbles on top.
Talking about obelisk
The creator of asterix and obelisk died recently, one of the characters in 'asterix and the chariot race' was named 'coronavirus' (wiki)