This video is very helpful, thanks so much! One note - the pushrod needs to be removed/inserted from the clutch side, not the slave side. The lube grooves that seat in the pressure plate can score the oil seal when removing from the slave side. That's actually why I'm on YT searching for a video like this now - mine ended up leaking from removing it from the slave side, and now I'm in the process of replacing it, which requires pulling the transmission and removing the primary shaft from the cassette plate.
Nicely done and thanks for taking the time to shoot and post. Very helpful to anyone following to have a road map to the gearbox R&R on a MV. Hope when you get around to a valve check that you can post your tutorial as well. +1 on more like this.
At the end of the day if you take away all the electronics they are still a mechanical engine, cool video love my Mv Dragster and maybe one day the cluch will need doing beyond helpful.
Nice video, very well made..... my mv 990r makes a rattle noise at low rpm when you take off also when you come out of a corner with low rpm......something to worry about ?? Bike did only 7500kms
I would like to respectfully make one major correction. You put a steel drive plate back in with a “groove” in it facing what is the conical shaped “judder spring” with which goes a spring seat (the flat thin washer). That groove is NOT supposed to be there. The steel drive disks are suppose to be smooth, flat, and clean. That “groove” is is friction wear from the shudder ring. The drive disk that the spring seat rests against probably has a wide wear ring in it as well. This kind of wear will cause the clutch to erratically grab, especially in first gear movement from a standstill. The “fix” is to replace the two steel drive discs that have these “grooves” in them. (Approx $8 each). The same clutch clutch and drive plates are common to most all modern MV Agusta’s. If you have trouble with my nomenclature, reference an MV Agusta clutch parts diagram from an on line parts store such as : www.bike-parts-mv.com/mvagusta-motorcycle/F3/2016/F3_675/CLUTCH-ASSEMBLY/22/33/0/97 Have fun and always ride safe!
Hi Antonio. It looks like a difficult job, but it was actually much easier than I expected. Luckily, the MV Agusta gearbox is like a cartridge that comes out as an entire assembly. On some bikes, you ave to disassemble the entire engine or remove one shaft at a time. All the steps involved are things I've had to do before (replace chain and sprocket, replace clutch, remove water pump to replace seal). The only thing I had not done before was remove the gearbox. All it took was removing a few bolts and giving a few taps on the shaft with a mallet.
Good job! How many miles are on the bike? Did you get the new gearbox from MV in Italy or is it a rebuild? Also, I was looking to find some shifter/break adjustable pedal tips and I saw some which appear to be what you got... MV sells them for sixty bucks I believe, but there's a lot to pay for shipping and it takes forever... The ones I found where listed for a different bike, but I see them now on yours... I have the 1090 RR, would you say they fit as far as interior diameter and the channel for the screw? Or, better, could you post a link with your source, please?
Thanks for the comment. The poor thing has suffered 49K hard miles. It's been surprisingly reliable. I was just going to replace the 2 damaged gears, but I got lucky and found the gearbox on eBay $242, new condition. It looked like it was pulled from a new bike. The 2 gears from any source would have cost more than that. It was for an F4 1000, but the Brutale 910 uses the same gearbox. The shifter and brake pegs are cheap $10 pegs. Just search Amazon for "MV Agusta brake peg". I'm almost positive the 1090 uses the same size peg. I never liked the tiny little stock pegs. I originally bought some like these from a fancy source in the UK before, but I broke one when I dropped the bike. The second time, I bought the these cheapies on Amazon because they looked similar and guess what.. they're identical! Diameter is a good fit. The groove for the bolt is in the right place. Once the bolt is tightened, they don't budge. They've held up for about a year of almost daily riding. The rubber o-rings are just that, o-rings. Mine haven't worn out yet, but if they do, just pop on some o-rings.
on my my agusta turismo veloce the spring leng was 43mm but in the work shop manual of the f3 say shud be 49mm some one who knows the proper leng thank you
Hi, I recently purchased a 2018 f3 brutale 800 and have a noise when the clutch is released, when clutch is pulled the rattle noise goes away, since you are a gearbox master, could you possibly help? When riding the bike it feels like it has a bearing noise/rumble from the gearbox, but I’m finding it hard to believe at 14,000 kms. Any help much appreciated
Hello Adam. Are you sure it's not chain or sprocket noise? Drain the oil. Do you see pieces of metal? Remove the clutch cover and move clutch basket around. Is there play? Outside of these actions, the only way to find out what's damaged is to remove the gearbox and inspect. We're lucky the gearbox really isn't that difficult to remove, compared to lots of other bikes.
This video is very helpful, thanks so much! One note - the pushrod needs to be removed/inserted from the clutch side, not the slave side. The lube grooves that seat in the pressure plate can score the oil seal when removing from the slave side. That's actually why I'm on YT searching for a video like this now - mine ended up leaking from removing it from the slave side, and now I'm in the process of replacing it, which requires pulling the transmission and removing the primary shaft from the cassette plate.
Nicely done and thanks for taking the time to shoot and post. Very helpful to anyone following to have a road map to the gearbox R&R on a MV. Hope when you get around to a valve check that you can post your tutorial as well. +1 on more like this.
That's a great idea. Except I don't do any maintenance other than oil changes. This poor bike only gets attention when something is broken.
Great video, really increased my knowledge of the Brutale gearbox & clutch. Thanks
Thank you so much! I did my own valve clearance job. Now my clutch is slipping. This helped to understand.
This was so interesting to watch, really well filmed, thank you and great job
At the end of the day if you take away all the electronics they are still a mechanical engine, cool video love my Mv Dragster and maybe one day the cluch will need doing beyond helpful.
Excellent video
Nice video, very well made..... my mv 990r makes a rattle noise at low rpm when you take off also when you come out of a corner with low rpm......something to worry about ?? Bike did only 7500kms
I would like to respectfully make one major correction. You put a steel drive plate back in with a “groove” in it facing what is the conical shaped “judder spring” with which goes a spring seat (the flat thin washer). That groove is NOT supposed to be there. The steel drive disks are suppose to be smooth, flat, and clean. That “groove” is is friction wear from the shudder ring. The drive disk that the spring seat rests against probably has a wide wear ring in it as well. This kind of wear will cause the clutch to erratically grab, especially in first gear movement from a standstill. The “fix” is to replace the two steel drive discs that have these “grooves” in them. (Approx $8 each). The same clutch clutch and drive plates are common to most all modern MV Agusta’s.
If you have trouble with my nomenclature, reference an MV Agusta clutch parts diagram from an on line parts store such as : www.bike-parts-mv.com/mvagusta-motorcycle/F3/2016/F3_675/CLUTCH-ASSEMBLY/22/33/0/97
Have fun and always ride safe!
Hi, with MV 3 cyl engine. Do gears derbis effect engine lifetime? Or is it most derbis does not affect engine bearings etc?
Good job, can i ask what make the crash pad is just forward of the waterpump, looks like it has seen action!!
Hello Gary. Yes, that's then engine slider. I'm glad I have it. I've dropped it a few times, yes. Fortunately, all low speed.
WHAO! what a job ;) very very nice video make more like this =)
Hi Antonio. It looks like a difficult job, but it was actually much easier than I expected. Luckily, the MV Agusta gearbox is like a cartridge that comes out as an entire assembly. On some bikes, you ave to disassemble the entire engine or remove one shaft at a time. All the steps involved are things I've had to do before (replace chain and sprocket, replace clutch, remove water pump to replace seal). The only thing I had not done before was remove the gearbox. All it took was removing a few bolts and giving a few taps on the shaft with a mallet.
Thanks a lot for this video
Muito bom o vídeo parabéns 👏👏
So if I’m only doing the plates can I reach getting them all out without having to loosen that middle hub?
Yes, you can. No need to remove the basket.
Nice job...👏👏👏💥💥💥🚀🚀🚀
Good job! How many miles are on the bike? Did you get the new gearbox from MV in Italy or is it a rebuild? Also, I was looking to find some shifter/break adjustable pedal tips and I saw some which appear to be what you got... MV sells them for sixty bucks I believe, but there's a lot to pay for shipping and it takes forever... The ones I found where listed for a different bike, but I see them now on yours... I have the 1090 RR, would you say they fit as far as interior diameter and the channel for the screw? Or, better, could you post a link with your source, please?
Thanks for the comment. The poor thing has suffered 49K hard miles. It's been surprisingly reliable. I was just going to replace the 2 damaged gears, but I got lucky and found the gearbox on eBay $242, new condition. It looked like it was pulled from a new bike. The 2 gears from any source would have cost more than that. It was for an F4 1000, but the Brutale 910 uses the same gearbox. The shifter and brake pegs are cheap $10 pegs. Just search Amazon for "MV Agusta brake peg". I'm almost positive the 1090 uses the same size peg. I never liked the tiny little stock pegs. I originally bought some like these from a fancy source in the UK before, but I broke one when I dropped the bike. The second time, I bought the these cheapies on Amazon because they looked similar and guess what.. they're identical! Diameter is a good fit. The groove for the bolt is in the right place. Once the bolt is tightened, they don't budge. They've held up for about a year of almost daily riding. The rubber o-rings are just that, o-rings. Mine haven't worn out yet, but if they do, just pop on some o-rings.
0:19 that scared me!
on my my agusta turismo veloce the spring leng was 43mm but in the work shop manual of the f3 say shud be 49mm some one who knows the proper leng thank you
I would trust the shop manual. But if you don't trust the shop manual, go onto mvagusta.net and ask someone to confirm.
Hi, I recently purchased a 2018 f3 brutale 800 and have a noise when the clutch is released, when clutch is pulled the rattle noise goes away, since you are a gearbox master, could you possibly help? When riding the bike it feels like it has a bearing noise/rumble from the gearbox, but I’m finding it hard to believe at 14,000 kms.
Any help much appreciated
Hello Adam. Are you sure it's not chain or sprocket noise? Drain the oil. Do you see pieces of metal? Remove the clutch cover and move clutch basket around. Is there play? Outside of these actions, the only way to find out what's damaged is to remove the gearbox and inspect. We're lucky the gearbox really isn't that difficult to remove, compared to lots of other bikes.
Ah, so you don't need the clutch wheel holder then
Nice vidio l like this
name of both tools @ 8:10?
One is a clutch holding tool (for clutch basket). The other is just a torque wrench.