Since there has been a lot of questions about Freddy/Tavarish and I, and the health of our relationship. It’s perfectly fine and we are looking forward to many more projects together! We will have two working shops both in Georgia and Florida with more info coming soon on what’s going on with shop spaces.
Hey Jarred I gotta ask you said you had hands on experience with the 305, are they good build up-able engines as they are, or would it be advisable to just go for a 350 or something bigger and build that up instead?
I had the same vintage big block in my 68 Camaro. With a big cam it sounded like an 8 second. But.....it was probably a 14 second car. Miss that slow thing
Look for the 454s in the older Class A motorhomes. They have most likely been treated to decent regular maintenance and good parts. They are the tough ones with good internals: 4 bolt mains and steel cranks. The TH400 transmissions used with the 454 in the bigger older RVs (say 25 feet and longer) have hardened planetary gearcases with a lower 1st and 2nd gear. Good heavy duty ready to modify stuff. At times I've run the engines completely as I found them in the old RVs. If they run good and don't smoke I'll clean them up, paint them and install them into an older GM or Chevy pick up truck or Camaro type car and wow let me tell you those engines make a lot of power! And when you start to add the parts to those 454s they come to life even more.
I am a long time chevy hot rodder. the first engine i ever worked on was a L78 396 in a 70 Chevelle. so i know a few things about them. the first myth is the weight of a BBC. they only weight about 125 lbs. more than a SBC. 2. myth you can tell if its a 2 bolt or a 4 bolt from the casting number. there are only 2 ways to tell if its a 2 bolt vs a 4 bolt. you discovered the first method, cracking it open to find out. and the second method is to look at the area above the oil filter. if it has the provisions for an oil cooler, its 95% likely its a 4 bolt. if it doesn't have the big plugs for the oil cooler passages, its a 2 bolt. I have never seen 4 bolt blocks with out the cooler, and I have never seen a 2 bolt with a cooler. after 1974 most big block cranks were cast. the cast crank is incredibly strong and is good to around 600 hp. the 2bolt block on the other hand is only good to around 500-550HP after that the caps have issues. you can use studs to get more out of it, but after 600 HP, you really need 4 bolt blocks. which are good to around 800 with a factory casting. after the 750-800 mark you should really be looking at a bow tie block or an aftermarket block like a Dart. also BBC come in 2 deck heights. 9.8 inch and 10.2 inch. the 9.8 inch block factory mark IV 454 block is good for .060 over bore. some blocks are good for as much as .100 over and some early 396 blocks are good for 4.310 bores since they used the same casting as the 427. 502 blocks are good 4.500 bores and when combined with a 4.50 stork crank are good for 540 cid. for this engine i would punch it .060 over, and stuff a 4.25 crank in it to get a 496. it costs the same for a 4.25 steel crank as it does for a 4.00 inch steel crank. since you need to bore it any way with that rust, it doesn't make sense not to go to a 496. the good news about 2 bolt blocks is they can be fitted with after market splayed main caps to make them stronger than factory 4 bolt blocks. the 10.2 inch block was only used in heavy duty trucks. its always a 4 bolt and steel crank. they were made 366 and 427 inch sizes. the 427 is the one to get. but keep in mind you will need .400 inch longer connecting rods and diffrent intake or intake spacers, and a distributer for a tall desk BCC. aftermarket BBC tall deck blocks are good for 632 cubic inches. as for the peanut port heads. they are good to about 475-500 HP and make monster torque down low to around 4000 rpm. but after 4k they just quite flowing. the large oval port heads from 1970 396 L34 and LS5 engines and 1971/72 396 LS3 and 454 LS5 used the same heads and are the best factory heads for street driven BBC cars. the 1970- 3964290 and 1971 -3993820, and 72- 3999241 semi open chamber heads are the best or the oval ports. with bigger valves and minor clearance to unshroud the valves at the sides of the combustion chambers, they will flow more than factory square port castings. but Iron heads will not allow for more than 9.5:1 compression, so after market aluminum is the way to go for a 1k HP machine. but on a 496 it really doesn't matter what port style you go with its big enough to handle the square port heads down low. were a 454 or smaller i will lose power down low with a square port head. since you already have the block, add the splayed cap, punch it 060, and stoke it to 4.25 and make a 496. add a good set of AFR aluminum heads, a 8.5:1 compression ratio and that blower tunnel ram setup would easily make 1000hp. or do it NA with 10.5:1 compression, and a big cam in the 250@.050 range will get you near 700 with a victor single plane and a dominator. and your just a big shot of NOS from 1000hp.
17:56 of you look just behind the engine mount. its almost in line with the eyelet on the engine mount. that is a coolant drain plug and youll have alot better results when flipping a motor is you pull that and drain it into a pan. its a service item and you should use it. makes life a whole lot easier. and easier to drain all coolant to replace and service. water pumps no mess. all motors have one. or a sensor in its place.
Just wanted to say that you're absolutely killing it with theses videos. It's been so cool to see you get more comfortable infront of the camera and make this channel what it is. Keep it up!
Hey, love the build, so the newer trends I have seen machine shops use is take a 2 bolt engine and drill it for 4 bolt splayed caps for more strength! Might not be such a downer on the block!
Duane the editor's garage, now officially Site "D." Anyone else see a slight resemblance to Ryan Seacrest in Jared sometimes? I saw it once when they first started working on the Lotus and then saw it again in the opening. "My name is Earl Leeker and I have a BBC." You know what? That's acceptable.
Oh, THAT's what BBC stands for. Never realized there were so many women on dating apps looking for a Big Block Chevy! I guess I'll have to get a BBC of my own...
God bless you. I’ve had many of these motors. I didn’t like most of them. The best thing you can do for these is get the heat out. Headers that flow well and a good cooling system was always my first steps with these.
Built a 454 with Oval port 781s , cam and a forged rotating for 9.1-2 Compression and it ate trough 3 transmissions before i slapped a Muncie on it. These engines are no joke, ridiculous low end torque. Same casting you have with 2 bolt main.
If you can find an original 4 bolt 450hp LS6 block in good shape that came out of a Chevelle or Corvette it's worth way more selling it than what Jared is going to use it for, a motor he's going to abuse on purpose. Sell that and you can use the proceeds to build yoiur entire burnout car motor.
A 2 bolt engine will handle gobs of power. I have a couple built bbc's boosted even no issues as long as air/fuel ratio is on you'll be fine with a 2 bolt block.
@@kdsboosted4954 I've actually heard from a buddy that works on pulling trucks, that the 4 bolt Chevy engines have issues with the caps cracking between the bolts so they prefer 2 bolt blocks.
A few thoughts on the 454... wrist pins are a huge weakness... Convert to aluminum heads will save 100 lbs and cool better. Brodex makes great heads. Resist doing a 496 stroker. It does bad things to rod angles! Lightweight rotating mass is the key. Same with valve train... chrome moly 1.7:1 roller rockers are the shiznit. 2 bolt mains are good, cause you can then Machine in splayed main caps.
Also, if you want to get oil stains out of your driveway, squirt dishwashing liquid on the oil patch.. scrub the soap into the patch with a broom/brush then let it it sit for 10-20 mins. After the 10-20 mins, hose soap off with water whilst gently scrubbing with the broom/brush . Oil gone. Works on cement and bricks alike.
Hey Jared, Loving your work! Made some comments relating to questions etc at the timestamps in the video 8:23 I would have guessed 500 actual chicken wings at this point in the video. 16:53 Make Questionable Promises Every Day 18:04 Frank the Pug from Men in Black II ? 19:39 Tunnel Rams are Stiletto heels for engines 20:55 Lucky guess in Chicken Wing units
Hey Jared My favourite engine and one I built a few of was A 1969 Oldsmobile 442 W30 Aluminum block 455 cubes. That with a 671 Blower was my favorite set up. I also did Holley 4 Barrels on a Edlebrock intake. Thats was what I had in my 1971 AMC Javelin. Custom headers and a quiet exhaust made for a very quick sleeper. The W30 Weighed less that the junk AMC motor. I can not wait to see what you accomplish with this 454. Im retirement age now I still remember Theres no replacement for displacement!
You have a remote Oil Filter / Cooler lines on the motor....Also, you have the two holes drilled, tapped and plugged above the oil filter boss. It probably has 'HI PERF PASS' embossed into the block, meaning a High Performance Passenger Car motor. Look for holes drilled, tapped and plugged on the bottom of the block going to the main oil lines, two similar holes above the cam for a gear drive, and you are almost gaurenteed a 4 bolt main motor
A BBC is a low revving truck motor and in that role it works well and lasts a long time. Unfortunately, folks that don’t have the cash for top shelf parts and prep try to force them to be a high revving hot rod engine. They generally do not last in that role for very long.
I learned to check that VIN number, and it turned out my "mid 80's Truck Engine 400 SBC" was actually installed in a 1974 Station Wagon. Good tool to check (and of course, it was uncommon enough that it took like four or five sites to find one which listed the right casting code).
On Gen 4 Rats look above the oil filter. If there's a large fitting and a smaller fitting it's plumbed for oil cooler. Most likely a 4 bolt main. I've had two. One was 69 396 4 bolt and the other was a 71 454 4 bolt block.
You can make that motor stronger and better than any factory 4 bolt main. They make splayed main caps to turn a 2 bolt to a four bolt with some machining work and upgrade the crank to a 4130 steel forged crank maybe even lighter weight to help with rotating mass. This small investments now could save you thousands in the future. Hope this helps!
Wish you had shown what makes it a "2 bolt" for those of us that don't have a clue what we are looking at. Maybe have shown how you determined cast vs forged as well. You did a great job explaining the peanut intake.
The "010" 350 small block is supposed to be the forged crank, 4-bolt small block to get. I've had a bunch of them over the years and have NEVER found a 4-bolt. Even one I pulled from a wrecked Vette. As soon as you said "Based on the casting numbers..." I just knew it was a 2-bolt... Good news is you can go with a stroker crank and a set of splayed 4-bolt caps... As for the dog... Anything under 20lbs is a cat.
BBCs and SBCs have coolant drain plugs on both sides of the engine blocks so you don’t have to make a mess when draining the block. On my small block, I installed radiator drains with the nipple so that I can use a hose to drain the block.
Add aftermarket 4 bolt mains and a forged crank. Not a huge deal breaker in the grand scheme of things. Plus trickflow, AFR, etc make killer heads for that thing.
I love watching these takedown and rebuilds! Always cool to watch a junkyard find start a new life! Thank you for doing what you do and don’t ever stop being yourself 🤘
Texas Speed? Id do Ligenfelter or Pat Musi long before I sent it off the Tehjas....Damn your just a young kid aren't you! Actually I'd send it to a guy named Carl Hickson CNC Blocks if I were on the East Coast....Carl's a talented man.
@@ericbrandt829 Ligenfelter? Personally I would send it to Lingenfelter. Though their focus on LS engines might have them ordering out of the same catalogs everyone else is using.
I have owned a few 454's and never have I found a 4 bolt block with forged internals from a truck. That stuff was only in the performance cars. And I work with a guy that runs a two bolt block In a pulling truck. Spins 9500 rpm.
Not gunna lie I wouldnt mind a little story time video with you talking about your history in circle track racing. I really enjoy that kind of car content now and again. Always fun to hear about experiences working with racecars at the shop and the track, soo many good times. Best time I had at my buddies race shop is when we were changing rear-end gears. We were pretty tipsy and I found an old barbie kicking around so I strapped some tannerite to it. I could only find a leg from it lol.
Don't know if it was mentioned before but, on all BBC best way to tell if it's a 2 or 4 bolt main is right above the oil filter location there would be two 1/2 inch pipe plugs if it was a 4 bold main. If it was a 2 bold there would be two machine bosses you could drill and tape for the same. Was there for an external oil cooler for Can Am racing way back when.
Ditch any cast iron head, go with just about any aluminum aftermarket head (if NA). Or a Good Dart Pro1 or Brodix cylinder heads. Eagle crank, rods will save you money in the long run. GM stuff is okay, but chinese steel has proven reliable into the 1200-1400hp range. (There are block drains at the bottom of each bank to drain the coolant BTW)
This video made me want to learn more about BBC pushrods but I was surprised by the search results. That said I did find out that SamCracs stepmom is a fan of Chevy muscle.
There are some specific reasons we are going with a big block Chevy, and staying cast iron, the build series is going to be really exciting and Jared is taking a different approach to building a burnout engine. Sadly we don’t have a budget anywhere near what it takes to build or buy what Warbird and the aussies are running, so it is all about ‘budget’, and by budget our goal is under $10,000 compared to the other engines being $70,000 and up!
If the casting was the same as a 4-bolt, then could the machine shop drill and tap additional stud locations and then you buy a set of 4-bolt caps? I, of course, have no idea whether this is possible or how expensive it would be, but it is already going to be at the shop....you know, while you're in there.
Oops I forgot. Another way of identifying a 4 bolt block is just above the oil filter there will be 2 3/4" pipe plugs in the block. The factory did this to make it easier for racers to convert over to dry sump systems. 2 bolt blocks had a single 5/8" plug.
With 2 bolt mains you can make a fun engine but from da aound of it you might be in need of a 4 bolt main block ,could be going over da limits for torque power ,but theres nothing like a built big block even 2 bolt main running,but u can get a spectractur engine explosion out of it ,good for vires
I joke about Freddie alot (thats what apprentices are for) but on a serious note tho your both good people, with good motives and do the things so many of us wish we could do, and always enjoy your content
You need to speak to Cleetus, and get him to put you in contact with "Benny 'NoGas'" out of Australia. He is the man to speak too if you want the staunchest burnout engine that won't break in a hurry
I have this trick... put a garbage (big black 55gal) bag over the motor. tape it off around the neck of the stand. rotate then pierce the bag over a bucket!! no mess...
The tube in the intake is the heat transfer tube for the heated choke. Oil in the manifold probably because it was on its side at one time and leaked into the intake. And the heads aren't "peanut" heads.
Id rather start with a 2blt block if I'm going with a factory block. Then I go aftermarket splayed main caps, decent forged rotating assembly, set of brodix heads etc and should be a good smoke maker. Basically only thing you need to use is the block.
The ABS says: You can save major (unenforceable) fines by repurposing this build now, when it's not too late to reform. Mr. Goodyear did not spend all that effort making those tires just to have you deposit them on small patches of asphalt and add to the greenhouse effect.
In regards to the leaks on the side, from a glance, you should always assume one of two things, either it's a catastrophic failure, or someone loosed the bolts. The last one being the most common. That's a huge amount of leakage, and if it was a failure, personally, i've only seen them like that if you can rock the heads on the core. Even if it's not a four, It's still a good engine. I'm sure you can work the envelope and get plenty out of it. PLUS, it's virgin. That, by itself is always a good thing. PS the squirrel is just scared cause you're a giant next to it.
Any chevy block of this era can accept 4 bolt main caps. It's definitely worth the effort and and dollars along with roller bearings at the crank. Lots of reward very little cost. Show them how to port heads being mindfully that 454 have weird water jackets and blind bolts going into the water galleys. These engines were my bread and butter
You can buy a kit that turns a 2 bolt block into a 4 bolt block and the outer bolts are splayed which makes it stronger than a 2 bolt anyway.. I would go for a set of the chinese aluminium heads and not bother with standard iron stuff, you are just driving it around a track for maybe an hour total runtime in a year.. you dont need top notch name brand stuff in it anyway. just go for an ebay 540 inch stroker kit (biggest stroke a factory BBC block will take) and send it
The engine you have is most commonly used for a boat anchor….if you want to make power the pistons are useless as they are low comp..the cylinder heads are useless as well..by the time you go through them and increase valve size it’s not economically acceptable….buy a set of race heads they are reasonable… I built hundreds of these engines in the 80’s. Get it align honed with arp studs and torque plate honed…. Our shop set NHRA SS/E ..record for a few days…lol…..and we could wind engine to 8850. Because I had first sunnen rod resized and we used 3/8 arp rod bolts and resized accuracy…good luck
Engine masters released an episode of an 871 & intercooler on a tunnel ram on a bbc about a month ago, setup Freiburger is going to use in his frod, worth the watch and that set up should be epic standing higher than the roofline of earl.
Hello friends, At 5:11 you are looking at the worlds first hot water bag 104°. Poor breathing passages guarantee that won’t stray far from the bed so that you can use it for sore back. Made in China. Great video! Thank you, Kenny
This was a little disappointing being 2 bolt cast crak, and then we went back in time and found out it was just going to have a tunnel ram, but then the plan on top of the tunnel ram makes it all better. Also you don't want to turn gasoline into smoke, you want to turn methanol into smoke. Lots of methanol.
Also, as an Australian watching so many Americans getting into Aussie style burnouts, I gotta say, Jared seems to be the most excited, and perhaps the most surprising in his enthusiasm to get out and just make smoke.
Being an Aussie, I recognized those summernats photos in an instant. Even more so when I saw the orange Holden HQ beast, I used to own the same car in the same colour.
1000 hp you need a 4 bolt main and forged connecting rods / pistons, after a couple passes you’ll probably spin a bearing or throw a rod pin. I used to be an engine guy for Chrysler/ Mopars not worth risking, bottom half has to support the upgrades air / fuel if not you’ll have a lot of metal to pick off the track, not being a dick just being honest
454 Big Block..... Oh yes indeed. My mother made the mistake of allowing her 16 year old son to accompany her to Bobby Murray Chevrolet in Raleigh to order a new 1967 Caprice 4dr with the "Kong Motor". Just what was she thinking? She traded in her Caprice wagon with the 396 cid engine which I had "advised" on the order. My Dad ended up selling the big green beast years later to a guy who wanted it for the engine/tranny to transplant.It had sat idle after Mom died in 1975 and the gas crisis hit.
You could learn a lot from Cleetus on this. They built their burnout Camaro that they sent to Australia. Big Block, big cubes, and well... HUGE fail - Twice. Turns out that burnout cars need a somewhat different configuration to really get the job done. Much over a certain point in HP and torque is absolutely meaningless, the game is all about sounding good and being able to sustain a certain higher RPM for an extended period of time. You can check out the Aussie burn out cars to understand more, mostly lower displacement, higher revving, light internals and enough slop in the system to accept that there might be sudden changes in RPM if the tires do actually hook up for a second. it's a weird game that isn't obvious!
I like how Jared does bring the impossible back to life. Good example is Freddie McLaren and now this big block. Can't wait to see what this engine will be mounted into.
Engine Masters did a test on a build very simular to what you have planed. Maybe check it out. Not sure if the tunnel ram/ blower will be the best option
Since there has been a lot of questions about Freddy/Tavarish and I, and the health of our relationship. It’s perfectly fine and we are looking forward to many more projects together! We will have two working shops both in Georgia and Florida with more info coming soon on what’s going on with shop spaces.
Thought this was your only channel lol.
Good to know my man, keep up the good work, really enjoying it!
IMHO you two are a good team. And there is no lack of projects filling two shops and some driveways ....
Now I’d only we can get parts to show up for the projects!
Hey Jarred I gotta ask you said you had hands on experience with the 305, are they good build up-able engines as they are, or would it be advisable to just go for a 350 or something bigger and build that up instead?
I had the same vintage big block in my 68 Camaro. With a big cam it sounded like an 8 second. But.....it was probably a 14 second car. Miss that slow thing
daaang Alex, you are everywhere
You watch whatever i watch lol
Alex you an Jared should do a twin turbo om606 build for earl or the BMW 3ltr diesel
Should put one in the RR.
same only mine is a 67
BBC means big block chevy? Wow, my ex wife loved those and I never knew what that meant... I didn't think she even liked cars...
Oof, lol
@Mike indeed, the many excellent outputs of the British Broadcasting Corporation are widely available on the web
@@jongmassey I'm still waiting for the British broadcasting corporation to force a name change WWF style ;)
Beat me to it 😂
RowdyVnson Damn...😆😆😆😆
Look for the 454s in the older Class A motorhomes. They have most likely been treated to decent regular maintenance and good parts. They are the tough ones with good internals: 4 bolt mains and steel cranks. The TH400 transmissions used with the 454 in the bigger older RVs (say 25 feet and longer) have hardened planetary gearcases with a lower 1st and 2nd gear. Good heavy duty ready to modify stuff. At times I've run the engines completely as I found them in the old RVs. If they run good and don't smoke I'll clean them up, paint them and install them into an older GM or Chevy pick up truck or Camaro type car and wow let me tell you those engines make a lot of power! And when you start to add the parts to those 454s they come to life even more.
I am a long time chevy hot rodder. the first engine i ever worked on was a L78 396 in a 70 Chevelle. so i know a few things about them. the first myth is the weight of a BBC. they only weight about 125 lbs. more than a SBC. 2. myth you can tell if its a 2 bolt or a 4 bolt from the casting number. there are only 2 ways to tell if its a 2 bolt vs a 4 bolt. you discovered the first method, cracking it open to find out. and the second method is to look at the area above the oil filter. if it has the provisions for an oil cooler, its 95% likely its a 4 bolt. if it doesn't have the big plugs for the oil cooler passages, its a 2 bolt. I have never seen 4 bolt blocks with out the cooler, and I have never seen a 2 bolt with a cooler. after 1974 most big block cranks were cast. the cast crank is incredibly strong and is good to around 600 hp. the 2bolt block on the other hand is only good to around 500-550HP after that the caps have issues. you can use studs to get more out of it, but after 600 HP, you really need 4 bolt blocks. which are good to around 800 with a factory casting. after the 750-800 mark you should really be looking at a bow tie block or an aftermarket block like a Dart.
also BBC come in 2 deck heights. 9.8 inch and 10.2 inch. the 9.8 inch block factory mark IV 454 block is good for .060 over bore. some blocks are good for as much as .100 over and some early 396 blocks are good for 4.310 bores since they used the same casting as the 427. 502 blocks are good 4.500 bores and when combined with a 4.50 stork crank are good for 540 cid. for this engine i would punch it .060 over, and stuff a 4.25 crank in it to get a 496. it costs the same for a 4.25 steel crank as it does for a 4.00 inch steel crank. since you need to bore it any way with that rust, it doesn't make sense not to go to a 496. the good news about 2 bolt blocks is they can be fitted with after market splayed main caps to make them stronger than factory 4 bolt blocks. the 10.2 inch block was only used in heavy duty trucks. its always a 4 bolt and steel crank. they were made 366 and 427 inch sizes. the 427 is the one to get. but keep in mind you will need .400 inch longer connecting rods and diffrent intake or intake spacers, and a distributer for a tall desk BCC. aftermarket BBC tall deck blocks are good for 632 cubic inches.
as for the peanut port heads. they are good to about 475-500 HP and make monster torque down low to around 4000 rpm. but after 4k they just quite flowing. the large oval port heads from 1970 396 L34 and LS5 engines and 1971/72 396 LS3 and 454 LS5 used the same heads and are the best factory heads for street driven BBC cars. the 1970- 3964290 and 1971 -3993820, and 72- 3999241 semi open chamber heads are the best or the oval ports. with bigger valves and minor clearance to unshroud the valves at the sides of the combustion chambers, they will flow more than factory square port castings. but Iron heads will not allow for more than 9.5:1 compression, so after market aluminum is the way to go for a 1k HP machine. but on a 496 it really doesn't matter what port style you go with its big enough to handle the square port heads down low. were a 454 or smaller i will lose power down low with a square port head.
since you already have the block, add the splayed cap, punch it 060, and stoke it to 4.25 and make a 496. add a good set of AFR aluminum heads, a 8.5:1 compression ratio and that blower tunnel ram setup would easily make 1000hp. or do it NA with 10.5:1 compression, and a big cam in the 250@.050 range will get you near 700 with a victor single plane and a dominator. and your just a big shot of NOS from 1000hp.
17:56 of you look just behind the engine mount. its almost in line with the eyelet on the engine mount.
that is a coolant drain plug and youll have alot better results when flipping a motor is you pull that and drain it into a pan. its a service item and you should use it.
makes life a whole lot easier. and easier to drain all coolant to replace and service. water pumps no mess. all motors have one. or a sensor in its place.
Jared saying BBC so nonchalantly will forever be burned into my brain.
I think I saw Samcracs stepmom in that film.
Bahahahaha
@@christopherflynn5359 I don’t know whether to upvote or downvote this. Lmao.
I'm still trying to figure out why he has such a fixation with the British Broadcasting Corporation. Makes no sense. He's from Georgia. SMH.
Girls love that Big Block Chevy LMAO
Just wanted to say that you're absolutely killing it with theses videos. It's been so cool to see you get more comfortable infront of the camera and make this channel what it is.
Keep it up!
Hey, love the build, so the newer trends I have seen machine shops use is take a 2 bolt engine and drill it for 4 bolt splayed caps for more strength! Might not be such a downer on the block!
its a very,very old trend tbh....
Still a good builder, you can add aftermarket 4 bolt main caps and a steel crank.
That much is very true....get splayed caps
where the fuck is the 2nd set of bolts supposed to go when there is no female threads to receive them
@@FUCK_________googIe Drill and tap them same as Chevy did when they added em
@@Onewheelordeal fuck I didn't think of the fact that the blocks are probably identical now I feel retarded lmfao
@@FUCK_________googIe laughs in LS build guides.
Duane the editor's garage, now officially Site "D."
Anyone else see a slight resemblance to Ryan Seacrest in Jared sometimes? I saw it once when they first started working on the Lotus and then saw it again in the opening.
"My name is Earl Leeker and I have a BBC." You know what? That's acceptable.
Oh, THAT's what BBC stands for. Never realized there were so many women on dating apps looking for a Big Block Chevy! I guess I'll have to get a BBC of my own...
God bless you. I’ve had many of these motors. I didn’t like most of them. The best thing you can do for these is get the heat out. Headers that flow well and a good cooling system was always my first steps with these.
Built a 454 with Oval port 781s , cam and a forged rotating for 9.1-2 Compression and it ate trough 3 transmissions before i slapped a Muncie on it. These engines are no joke, ridiculous low end torque. Same casting you have with 2 bolt main.
Maybe you should go out and get a 4 bolt block before you spend more time and money on this since you are planning on a supercharger.
What he said 🥜🤟🏻
Or have it machined for 4 bolt splayed caps......
If you can find an original 4 bolt 450hp LS6 block in good shape that came out of a Chevelle or Corvette it's worth way more selling it than what Jared is going to use it for, a motor he's going to abuse on purpose.
Sell that and you can use the proceeds to build yoiur entire burnout car motor.
A 2 bolt engine will handle gobs of power. I have a couple built bbc's boosted even no issues as long as air/fuel ratio is on you'll be fine with a 2 bolt block.
@@kdsboosted4954 I've actually heard from a buddy that works on pulling trucks, that the 4 bolt Chevy engines have issues with the caps cracking between the bolts so they prefer 2 bolt blocks.
A few thoughts on the 454... wrist pins are a huge weakness... Convert to aluminum heads will save 100 lbs and cool better. Brodex makes great heads.
Resist doing a 496 stroker. It does bad things to rod angles! Lightweight rotating mass is the key. Same with valve train... chrome moly 1.7:1 roller rockers are the shiznit.
2 bolt mains are good, cause you can then Machine in splayed main caps.
Also, if you want to get oil stains out of your driveway, squirt dishwashing liquid on the oil patch.. scrub the soap into the patch with a broom/brush then let it it sit for 10-20 mins.
After the 10-20 mins, hose soap off with water whilst gently scrubbing with the broom/brush .
Oil gone.
Works on cement and bricks alike.
That was a sleek transition to the sponsor. You got me😂😂
check legitstreetcars, his ad transition is amazing
Hey Jared,
Loving your work! Made some comments relating to questions etc at the timestamps in the video
8:23 I would have guessed 500 actual chicken wings at this point in the video.
16:53 Make Questionable Promises Every Day
18:04 Frank the Pug from Men in Black II ?
19:39 Tunnel Rams are Stiletto heels for engines
20:55 Lucky guess in Chicken Wing units
The small port heads are usually in indication that it's just a regular 2 bolt main block.
Yes you are totally right , smog pump heads and inners , still could be built to be a monster though
Hey Jared
My favourite engine and one I built a few of was A 1969 Oldsmobile 442 W30 Aluminum block 455 cubes. That with a 671 Blower was my favorite set up. I also did Holley 4 Barrels on a Edlebrock intake. Thats was what I had in my 1971 AMC Javelin. Custom headers and a quiet exhaust made for a very quick sleeper. The W30 Weighed less that the junk AMC motor. I can not wait to see what you accomplish with this 454. Im retirement age now I still remember Theres no replacement for displacement!
First 10 seconds was fantastic. Anyone who’s ever wrenched every day has had that happen. And the fact it was his FIL makes it even funnier.
You have a remote Oil Filter / Cooler lines on the motor....Also, you have the two holes drilled, tapped and plugged above the oil filter boss. It probably has 'HI PERF PASS' embossed into the block, meaning a High Performance Passenger Car motor. Look for holes drilled, tapped and plugged on the bottom of the block going to the main oil lines, two similar holes above the cam for a gear drive, and you are almost gaurenteed a 4 bolt main motor
A BBC is a low revving truck motor and in that role it works well and lasts a long time. Unfortunately, folks that don’t have the cash for top shelf parts and prep try to force them to be a high revving hot rod engine. They generally do not last in that role for very long.
This is a benchmark in "making questionable choices". I grant it 1000 QC points.
10 000 Points for Rustindor
I learned to check that VIN number, and it turned out my "mid 80's Truck Engine 400 SBC" was actually installed in a 1974 Station Wagon. Good tool to check (and of course, it was uncommon enough that it took like four or five sites to find one which listed the right casting code).
hust put a rotating assembly from scat in it , that way you can have the forged steel crank and good rods
On Gen 4 Rats look above the oil filter. If there's a large fitting and a smaller fitting it's plumbed for oil cooler. Most likely a 4 bolt main. I've had two. One was 69 396 4 bolt and the other was a 71 454 4 bolt block.
I'm almost surprised you don't go with an LS platform for this, given how common they are in junkyards and all the upgrades for them now.
You can make that motor stronger and better than any factory 4 bolt main. They make splayed main caps to turn a 2 bolt to a four bolt with some machining work and upgrade the crank to a 4130 steel forged crank maybe even lighter weight to help with rotating mass. This small investments now could save you thousands in the future. Hope this helps!
Wish you had shown what makes it a "2 bolt" for those of us that don't have a clue what we are looking at. Maybe have shown how you determined cast vs forged as well. You did a great job explaining the peanut intake.
"How many chicken wings did that cost you?"
"More than you can afford, pal"
Places I worked at (when I was a yoot!) always used cheap kitty litter to cover spills, then brush/vac the stuff up when it'd done it's job.
The "010" 350 small block is supposed to be the forged crank, 4-bolt small block to get. I've had a bunch of them over the years and have NEVER found a 4-bolt. Even one I pulled from a wrecked Vette. As soon as you said "Based on the casting numbers..." I just knew it was a 2-bolt...
Good news is you can go with a stroker crank and a set of splayed 4-bolt caps...
As for the dog... Anything under 20lbs is a cat.
BBCs and SBCs have coolant drain plugs on both sides of the engine blocks so you don’t have to make a mess when draining the block. On my small block, I installed radiator drains with the nipple so that I can use a hose to drain the block.
Add aftermarket 4 bolt mains and a forged crank. Not a huge deal breaker in the grand scheme of things. Plus trickflow, AFR, etc make killer heads for that thing.
1:22 it seems Jarred loves Holdens too!
Haha yeah I saw that, I had to rewind to see if that was a VK too in the quick flash at the end of that.
I love watching these takedown and rebuilds! Always cool to watch a junkyard find start a new life! Thank you for doing what you do and don’t ever stop being yourself 🤘
Worst case scenario: Send that engine to Texas Speed and have them build you a replica.
Then send it back three days later when Freddy explodes it in a glorious fireball.
Texas Speed? Id do Ligenfelter or Pat Musi long before I sent it off the Tehjas....Damn your just a young kid aren't you! Actually I'd send it to a guy named Carl Hickson CNC Blocks if I were on the East Coast....Carl's a talented man.
@@ericbrandt829 Ligenfelter? Personally I would send it to Lingenfelter. Though their focus on LS engines might have them ordering out of the same catalogs everyone else is using.
Loved the Vice Grip Garage shoutout! Derek does great work.
Im glad to see Derek getting more attention like that. He's a hero.
Derek is a mechanic genius.
@@theotherchannel2279 indeed! On a side note, im a huge fan of Elite Dangerous too, nice to see a fellow fan!
Only one cam for all those cubes, so cute!
I love seeing a container to put the parts in after you take them off. Keeping organized during disassembly is critical.
I have owned a few 454's and never have I found a 4 bolt block with forged internals from a truck. That stuff was only in the performance cars. And I work with a guy that runs a two bolt block In a pulling truck. Spins 9500 rpm.
Not gunna lie I wouldnt mind a little story time video with you talking about your history in circle track racing. I really enjoy that kind of car content now and again. Always fun to hear about experiences working with racecars at the shop and the track, soo many good times. Best time I had at my buddies race shop is when we were changing rear-end gears. We were pretty tipsy and I found an old barbie kicking around so I strapped some tannerite to it. I could only find a leg from it lol.
Site Dwayne looks like a good place for you to work for now even thought it’s outside. Hopefully you can back to your normal shop soon.
Don't know if it was mentioned before but, on all BBC best way to tell if it's a 2 or 4 bolt main is right above the oil filter location there would be two 1/2 inch pipe plugs if it was a 4 bold main. If it was a 2 bold there would be two machine bosses you could drill and tape for the same. Was there for an external oil cooler for Can Am racing way back when.
Ditch any cast iron head, go with just about any aluminum aftermarket head (if NA). Or a Good Dart Pro1 or Brodix cylinder heads. Eagle crank, rods will save you money in the long run. GM stuff is okay, but chinese steel has proven reliable into the 1200-1400hp range. (There are block drains at the bottom of each bank to drain the coolant BTW)
This video made me want to learn more about BBC pushrods but I was surprised by the search results. That said I did find out that SamCracs stepmom is a fan of Chevy muscle.
I thought the big small blocks were better for burnout higher Rev. That's why Cletus changed and you speak to the Aussies that's what they recommend
There are some specific reasons we are going with a big block Chevy, and staying cast iron, the build series is going to be really exciting and Jared is taking a different approach to building a burnout engine. Sadly we don’t have a budget anywhere near what it takes to build or buy what Warbird and the aussies are running, so it is all about ‘budget’, and by budget our goal is under $10,000 compared to the other engines being $70,000 and up!
If the casting was the same as a 4-bolt, then could the machine shop drill and tap additional stud locations and then you buy a set of 4-bolt caps? I, of course, have no idea whether this is possible or how expensive it would be, but it is already going to be at the shop....you know, while you're in there.
The machine shop visit will be cool. Any plans to open up the intakes and bore the cylinders?
Oops I forgot. Another way of identifying a 4 bolt block is just above the oil filter there will be 2 3/4" pipe plugs in the block. The factory did this to make it easier for racers to convert over to dry sump systems. 2 bolt blocks had a single 5/8" plug.
With 2 bolt mains you can make a fun engine but from da aound of it you might be in need of a 4 bolt main block ,could be going over da limits for torque power ,but theres nothing like a built big block even 2 bolt main running,but u can get a spectractur engine explosion out of it ,good for vires
The tube in the intake manifold is in the exhaust crossover and is the heat pipe for the hot air choke on the carburetor.
I like how Aussie "Summer Nats" with Holden's doing burnouts was the choice for Big Block burnout pics!
wondered if anyone else noticed that!
I joke about Freddie alot (thats what apprentices are for) but on a serious note tho your both good people, with good motives and do the things so many of us wish we could do, and always enjoy your content
2:42 so, it’s settled; BBC is short for Big Block Chevy.
I was wondering this ever so often, you know, casually surfing the internet….
You need to speak to Cleetus, and get him to put you in contact with "Benny 'NoGas'" out of Australia. He is the man to speak too if you want the staunchest burnout engine that won't break in a hurry
If you want enough horsepower to de-orbit the moon, that's the way to go.
Or he could just call them himself he doesn't have to get cleetus permission 😭
They have a direct number I hear
@@pauledwards9416 nogas performance and castle main rod shop both have numbers available on google. they are actual business.
a he could ring them himself, they are a commercial business, betting theres going to be a big dollar difference between the engines
I have this trick... put a garbage (big black 55gal) bag over the motor. tape it off around the neck of the stand. rotate then pierce the bag over a bucket!! no mess...
The tube in the intake is the heat transfer tube for the heated choke. Oil in the manifold probably because it was on its side at one time and leaked into the intake. And the heads aren't "peanut" heads.
Id rather start with a 2blt block if I'm going with a factory block. Then I go aftermarket splayed main caps, decent forged rotating assembly, set of brodix heads etc and should be a good smoke maker. Basically only thing you need to use is the block.
The ABS says: You can save major (unenforceable) fines by repurposing this build now, when it's not too late to reform. Mr. Goodyear did not spend all that effort making those tires just to have you deposit them on small patches of asphalt and add to the greenhouse effect.
Top tip guy concrete mixing tray under the oil drain pan when you flip it over catches all the crap
Peanut heads were popular on truck applications they make great torque numbers
Love videos like these were you show the full work. Good job
You forgot that big block Chevys are also called Rats, too.
BTW the plug next to the engine mount is a drain plug for the coolant. just so you know next time!
same thing on Small block chevy.
Currently building a 496 from a junkyard gen 6 454, excited for this build.
Hi Jared nice video 📹 and workmanship and car!!! The car looks fast time for some coffee ☕️ 😋
In regards to the leaks on the side, from a glance, you should always assume one of two things, either it's a catastrophic failure, or someone loosed the bolts. The last one being the most common. That's a huge amount of leakage, and if it was a failure, personally, i've only seen them like that if you can rock the heads on the core.
Even if it's not a four, It's still a good engine. I'm sure you can work the envelope and get plenty out of it. PLUS, it's virgin. That, by itself is always a good thing.
PS the squirrel is just scared cause you're a giant next to it.
Any chevy block of this era can accept 4 bolt main caps.
It's definitely worth the effort and and dollars along with roller bearings at the crank. Lots of reward very little cost.
Show them how to port heads being mindfully that 454 have weird water jackets and blind bolts going into the water galleys.
These engines were my bread and butter
The plug above the oil filter tells you if it's a 4 0r 2 bolt, coulda told you instantly in the junk yard
You can buy a kit that turns a 2 bolt block into a 4 bolt block and the outer bolts are splayed which makes it stronger than a 2 bolt anyway.. I would go for a set of the chinese aluminium heads and not bother with standard iron stuff, you are just driving it around a track for maybe an hour total runtime in a year.. you dont need top notch name brand stuff in it anyway. just go for an ebay 540 inch stroker kit (biggest stroke a factory BBC block will take) and send it
The engine you have is most commonly used for a boat anchor….if you want to make power the pistons are useless as they are low comp..the cylinder heads are useless as well..by the time you go through them and increase valve size it’s not economically acceptable….buy a set of race heads they are reasonable…
I built hundreds of these engines in the 80’s. Get it align honed with arp studs and torque plate honed….
Our shop set NHRA SS/E ..record for a few days…lol…..and we could wind engine to 8850. Because I had first sunnen rod resized and we used 3/8 arp rod bolts and resized accuracy…good luck
Next episode of "WrenchEveryday we show you how to epoxy a garage floor"
Engine masters released an episode of an 871 & intercooler on a tunnel ram on a bbc about a month ago, setup Freiburger is going to use in his frod, worth the watch and that set up should be epic standing higher than the roofline of earl.
That Pug wanted to help 🐶❤️😊
Hello friends,
At 5:11 you are looking at the worlds first hot water bag 104°. Poor breathing passages guarantee that won’t stray far from the bed so that you can use it for sore back. Made in China. Great video!
Thank you, Kenny
Careful that funny looking squirrel doesn’t get sucked into the engine.
This was a little disappointing being 2 bolt cast crak, and then we went back in time and found out it was just going to have a tunnel ram, but then the plan on top of the tunnel ram makes it all better.
Also you don't want to turn gasoline into smoke, you want to turn methanol into smoke. Lots of methanol.
Also, as an Australian watching so many Americans getting into Aussie style burnouts, I gotta say, Jared seems to be the most excited, and perhaps the most surprising in his enthusiasm to get out and just make smoke.
Gotta be careful using chicken wings as currency!! Chicken wings are gaining value rapidly these day!!
That Ford 351c had a Tunnel Ram... we had an Indoor Cricket Team I Captured called "The Tunnel Rams"... fun times
Being an Aussie, I recognized those summernats photos in an instant. Even more so when I saw the orange Holden HQ beast, I used to own the same car in the same colour.
1000 hp you need a 4 bolt main and forged connecting rods / pistons, after a couple passes you’ll probably spin a bearing or throw a rod pin. I used to be an engine guy for Chrysler/ Mopars not worth risking, bottom half has to support the upgrades air / fuel if not you’ll have a lot of metal to pick off the track, not being a dick just being honest
Yup. I'm not sure why he thinks that the stock short block, even with if it had a 4 bolt main and steel crankshaft would be able to handle 1000hp.
454 Big Block..... Oh yes indeed. My mother made the mistake of allowing her 16 year old son to accompany her to Bobby Murray Chevrolet in Raleigh to order a new 1967 Caprice 4dr with the "Kong Motor". Just what was she thinking? She traded in her Caprice wagon with the 396 cid engine which I had "advised" on the order. My Dad ended up selling the big green beast years later to a guy who wanted it for the engine/tranny to transplant.It had sat idle after Mom died in 1975 and the gas crisis hit.
You could learn a lot from Cleetus on this. They built their burnout Camaro that they sent to Australia. Big Block, big cubes, and well... HUGE fail - Twice. Turns out that burnout cars need a somewhat different configuration to really get the job done. Much over a certain point in HP and torque is absolutely meaningless, the game is all about sounding good and being able to sustain a certain higher RPM for an extended period of time. You can check out the Aussie burn out cars to understand more, mostly lower displacement, higher revving, light internals and enough slop in the system to accept that there might be sudden changes in RPM if the tires do actually hook up for a second. it's a weird game that isn't obvious!
Do they not make an aftermarket head with oval ports for the later gen big blocks or do you just want to find stock ones to conserve budget
Dude this channel is sooo good. Keep doing it.
I like it - an actual garage with actual hand tools!!
After watching this video I looked up BBC, ended up seeing Samcrac's stepmom with a man I believe to be from Rich rebuilds. How did I go so wrong?
14:10 I see a crack by the intake valve on the cylinder on the left of the screen. Maybe that's just carbon build-up.
You are a good person mentioning the dogs and antifreeze.
Earl leaker is my favorite project on this channel. But this make it even better.
Now if only Tavaris can make some progress on the Rotorari.
I love when you show pictures of burnout cars you show our Aussie Iron!! Hands down best burnout cars in the world!
Gotta be selling their Georgia house and moving to Florida?
I like how Jared does bring the impossible back to life. Good example is Freddie McLaren and now this big block. Can't wait to see what this engine will be mounted into.
Engine Masters did a test on a build very simular to what you have planed. Maybe check it out. Not sure if the tunnel ram/ blower will be the best option
I love the reference to us Aussies blowing up big blocks.
Get splayed 4 bolt main caps for it then have the block drilled and line honed wile it’s at the machine shop
I noticed you showed all AUSSIES with those big blocks in cars. LOL