Vector's Biggest Upgrade Yet! - Part IV - Fusion 4x4 2.5 Ton Steering
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ย. 2021
- I am not sponsored by, nor am I being paid by Fusion 4x4 for this Install & Review.
I am in the middle of my Dynatrac Pro-Rock 44 Front Axle and JK Sport Dana 44 Rear Axle Swap and in today's video I will be installing the Fusion 4x4’s 2.5 Ton Drag Link and Tie Rod steering system.
If you have seen any of my past wheeling videos you know that I send Vector on many challenging obstacles and my steering on my original D30 front axle is banged up! So with the upgrade to the new Dynatrac Pro-Rock 44 I figured it was time to upgrade. I bounced back and forth between a couple of different companies of which all had great customer service however the warranty of the Fusion 4x4 Steering System was the best I found since it included the aluminum rods and rod ends minus the serviceable ball joints in addition to being very fast to respond to my questions and having great overall customer service. Oh and did I mention Made in the USA!
I think these steering components will hold up great to everything I throw at them and Vector! So check out this install video of the process of assembling each of the steering links and how I went about aligning my steering.
If you are interested in any specific portions of the video check the “Jump Links” below to get you to the exact section, you are looking for.
Jump Links:
Preliminary Measurements: 3:05
Tie Rod Assembly: 4:22
Rod End Assembly: 5:17
Ball Joint Assembly: 8:36
Drag Link Flip Explanation: 11:30
Drag Link Installation: 13:12
Tie Rod Installation: 15:15
Tie Rod Alignment (Toe): 17:00
Drag Link Alignment (Steering Angle): 21:35
Post Drive Test Drag Link Adjustment: 23:14
Steering Stabilizer: 25:05
Links:
Products:
Fusion 4x4 2.5 Ton Steering System: fusion4x4.com/products/jeep-j...
Mixpower ½-Inch Drive Socket Set: MIXPOWER 1/2-Inch Drive Impact Socket Set, Inch, Cr-Mo, 6 Point, 1-13/16",1-7/8", 1-15/16", 2", 4-Piece 1/2" Dr. Spindle Axle Nut Impact Socket Set, Impact Grade - - Amazon.com
BleepinJeep Alignment Tool: bleepinjeep.com/product/bleep...
Videos:
Vector's Biggest Upgrade Yet! - Part I - Axle Swap Prep: • Vector's Biggest Upgra...
Vector's Biggest Upgrade Yet! - Part II - Axle Swap Install: • Vector's Biggest Upgra...
Vector's Biggest Upgrade Yet! - Part III - ARB Compressor Install & Locker Plumbing Video: • Vector's Biggest Upgra...
Vector's Biggest Upgrade Yet! - Part IV - Fusion 4x4 2.5 Ton Steering Video: • Vector's Biggest Upgra...
Vector's Biggest Upgrade Yet! - Part VI - Adams Driveshaft Install Video: Coming Soon!
Vector's Biggest Upgrade Yet! - Part VI - Shake Down Run Video: • Vector's Biggest Upgra...
I hope you enjoy my video and find value in the content. Please leave me comments, questions, or feedback! I appreciate it!
We are VictorVectorJKU taking on this build and the trails with both Direction and Magnitude!
Thanks for watching! - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Great video. Thank you
Thank you for checking out my video Gooseberry!
Always good videos. Keep up the good work!
Thank you Marcello!! I really appreciate it!
Nice Custom 👍👍👍😄
Thank you Petr! I appreciate you checking out my video!
Cool video! Good content! Found you through Goat Off-Road. New Subscriber!!
That’s awesome! And thank you so much!! I really appreciate it!
I see you are using two identical tape measures, and there is huge wisdom there (sorry if you mentioned this on the vid, if so I just missed it). Being identical they most likely have same tolerances, and give you reliable enough measurements for the toe-in. I know a guy who was building his house, and was struggling with woodwork assembly. Whatever I, ummm...I mean this guy did, the parts often had either play, or just would not squeeze in between each other. Years after it was discovered the two tape measures used on site had tiny, but none the less significant enough tolerance, so for each meter there was a about a millimeter of difference. With longer parts and high precision assemblies, depending on which tape meaure was used, one sometimes ended up with ~5 millimeter (1/4") gaps or oversized parts. Oh the amount of swearing heard on that site every now and then... Well, neither of the tape measures was exactly top of the line, but money was tight so...
I don’t believe that I mentioned it, but very observant of you and that was exactly my thought buying two of the same tape measure rather than using ones I already had! Granted I have not verified they are identical or not, I probably should do that! 🤔 But I figured having two versus one and having to flip back and forth would be a pain.
Oh man that it a story right there! What a bummer to not realize that till later on! But also a great life and learning experience!
Thanks for checking out the video tho! And also catching a little detail like that!
Great video. Did you have to install steering sector shaft like Steersmart and how did you relocate the steering stabilizer?
Hey thanks for checking out my video Soumen! So when you are asking about the sector shaft, do you mean a sector shaft brace? It is not required however I did recently shear my sector shaft and I have installed the synergy sector shaft brace. As far as a stabilizer, I am not running one and I have had zero issues since August of 2021 when I installed the axles and new steering!
@@VictorVectorJKU yes. Steering Sector shaft brace reinforcement. Quite a mouthful 🤣
Yeah it is!
Just realize that no rheeming was done for the otk installation
Hey there Bernelnery, thanks for checking out my video! So the Reid Racing knuckles they are designed for over the knuckle drag link mount. Factory knuckles will require drilling and an insert to be installed.
Oh boy I guess my stock knucklke will be drilled and forever be OTK
There is an insert that is installed for the OTH conversion, a new insert could be installed from the underside to go back to under the knuckle if ever desired. This would also work for repairing a wobbled out taper on the knuckle as well
Are you running a stock steering box and pump? If so, do you have concerns about the added weight of these bars and ends? I just got mine in the mail today and realized how “beefy” these things are and wondered if they will put more stress on my stock steering parts.
Hey there Rob, thanks for checking out my video! Yes I am still running the factory Steering Gear Box and PS Pump. I wish I would have looked at the weight comparison of the factory steel to aluminum tie rod and drag link, but I am not concerned with this added weight impacting the steering pump and gear box. The more impacting item will be oversized tires, they add a significant amount of mass (weight) both static and rotational and the increase of diameter adds more strain to these components especially in off road driving. I hope this helps!
@@VictorVectorJKU I appreciate your response and enjoyed your video as well! Btw, which direction did you install the washers? I noticed there is a concave/convex side. I’m also thinking the sector shaft now becomes the weak link in the system! PSC steering box in my future?
Yeah the sector shaft definitely would be the weak link but I don’t expect the larger drag link would have a negative impact beside not deflecting and deforming as much as the factory which could add strain to the sector shaft. As for the washers you want the concave or pocket side adjacent to the rod end, that serves as a pocket for the grease to fill. Also do note for the tie rod you will use the anti-rotation washers in place of the rubber boots.
@@VictorVectorJKU thanks again for your response! I was actually referring to the serrated washer that is between jam nut and bar🤔
Oh haha whoops! Honestly I don’t really remember, I want to say I would have put the serrated side to the aluminum since the nut would slide on the washer and you would want to not be grabbing on the serrations.
Could you measure (length) the adjuster tube itself?
Also the measurements from driver side TRE zerk fitting to passenger side TRE zerk fitting running hi steer knuckles on a Dana44 (or ProRock44 Unlimited) width axle?
Hey there Beach Boy, thanks for checking out my video!
The aluminum tie rod, just the aluminum sleeve, is 39” and zerk to zerk is 58-3/8” approximately. Keep in mind your zerk to zerk distance may differ based on your adjustment for toe! I hope this helps
@@VictorVectorJKU very helpful! Thanks for the detailed vids!
You are welcome!
Hey VictorVectorJKU, could you also measure zerk to zerk for the draglink?
Hey there beach boy, so I cannot get an accurate measurement since I have a drag link flip kit so the zerk on the pitman arm faces down and the knuckle side faces up. Measuring from the ball joint stud to the zerk I am approximately 40.25”.
One question I have is you are not trying to use my measurements to set your alignment correct? It would be highly unlikely for your measurements to match mine exactly due to tolerances of the axles. Just want to make sure you are working towards success if not just looking for information for your own research!