Hi..Thank You for the diagram and explanation...I have van that needs purge vacuum hose to be replaced.... I couldn't find a video for my van but your explanation gave me the principle of how the purge works.... I do the research and show my brother to help me fix my van and for the hard work, I just take it to the professional mechanic....it just helps me to understand labor and cost.... Also I'm hoping this will be the final fix to pass smog test Be Bless!!!
thanks for all these TH-cam videos! I managed to check my Kia Sorento 2011 V6 3.5L and found that charcoal from canister got sucked in and clogged the purge valve, and line going to canister. I finally removed the canister and foam/filters are all busted and got about 2 Cups of gasoline. I also cleaned the line using compressed air to be sure the line is completely void of charcoal pellets. Cut the canister open using heat gun, acetone and managed to cut it cleanly. Looking inside, all flimsy foams disintegrated that's why pellets are in the line. I checked the fuel line going to the tank to be sure it's not clogged either as I saw some after disconnecting the hoses. I'm rebuilding the canister as it will cost me about $320 and it's going to take awhile to arrive!
Brian, Thank you for that white board lesson, and your time. The details about how the system works is one reasons why your video is exceptional. Knowing how the system works helps immensely. I am a middle aged woman; so, I was not raised helping my dad fix things. Your video is good for two reasons: I can attempt to fix my own vehicle in my driveway. If I cannot accomplish the task (sometimes I don't have the muscle required, or the tools) at least I have an idea of what the problem actually is when I bring my vehicle to an automotive shop. As a woman, over the years I have been told false information more than once when bringing my vehicles to mechanics I did not know. Although, most mechanics are nice honest people. Thank you.
Hello, I must say thank you. I have a silverado with the code 449. I had some damaged lines so I replaced those and the code persisted. So I removed the solenoid and wasn’t sure how to test it without a costly scan tool, I rely on blue driver and although that’s an awesome tool, it’s only can give information, not test, etc. So I found this video. I went to amazon, ordered the tester, got it today, did the test procedure you describe and BOOM.... I have confirmation the solenoid is faulty. Although it confirmed a bad solenoid, it was a relief to have the answer. Will get the part, replace and go on with life. Thanks for this video, I am so relieved. Also, got a new tool to add to my box. I’m new to the industry. Will be starting tech school most likely this fall. Depending on scheduling. Funny thing, I went to university and obtained a masters degree in psychology. What a mistake. I should have went to tech school first. I had this desire to work on cars. To have a problem and fix it. Added with my love for all things automotive, I should have followed my heart and not my mind. I’m not going in to this for the money, I’m doing this because I absolutely love working on vehicles. I already know my way around vehicles, I have two vehicles approaching 200k, a truck and a Mazda. I’ve rebuilt all of the suspension, replaced the AC comp, and did a complete brake job on the Mazda. On the Silverado, I’ve done the fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel lines, blower motor, oil leak on oil pan, diagnosed a parasitic draw, replaced the suspension and brakes. All though this is easy work, I’ve learned a lot. I’m looking forward to getting started. Once I graduate, I’m blessed with the ability to start my own business. I’m planning to buy a work truck that can carry all my tools and supplies with room for common parts, equip the truck to handle everything short of engine out and start off as a mobile mechanic doing light maintenance and repairs. As I gain experience, get further training and I feel confident in my competency, then I’ll add more complex services to my offerings. I’m aware of the challenges this entails. I’m aware I’ll have rough days. I’m aware customers can be... um....you know. One thing I also know, I can’t get from here to my goal without traversing the path that gets me their. All the while learning along the way. I’ve already had people have me work on their vehicles. They see me work on mine and want me to work on theirs. I actually have a regular customer now, a veteran. I work on his truck. Nice guy. I work for parts and lunch. Don’t charge labor. I figure I’m getting as much out of the experience as he is from having his vehicle fixed. When I’m finished with school, I won’t be able to work for free, but service persons of all types will get a good discount. My absolute biggest goal? I’m gonna be that repairman that has a waitlist because everyone knows, I’m honest to the core. I absolutely will never say “yeah, I can do that” if I have the slightest inclination I won’t be able to. I also won’t use scare tactics, if a car is seeping oil, it doesn’t usually need fixed that moment (with rare exceptions). I’m building my vision on honesty and quality. By doing those things right, I won’t have to worry about if I’ll have enough work. Long winded, I know. Started down this path over a year ago. Best decision I’ve made. Looking forward to a lot more exciting repairs.
Brian your videos are always much appreciated, no need to debate whether you want to go with short or long videos based on content. do whats right for you we'll understand. your efforts go into these videos and you deserve to be compensated.
Hey Brian, thanks for this. After my dad passed away, I got his Chevy S10 with the 4.3 engine. It only has 51,000 miles, and it is a money pit. The other day, I got the P0442 code. My mechanic said, it's probably the vent valve. He told me, he has never had to replace the purge valve, but the vent valves always go. I'm gonna tackle this one myself. If it does turn out to be the purge valve, I'll probably have my mechanic tackle that. But thanks for a great video, and yep, I just subscribed to you and gave you a thumbs up. Thanks !
I just pulled a 456 code on my 2013 Ford Focus. I "smoked" the system and found no leaks. Checked the purge solenoid valve for operation only to find it leaking. Replaced the valve, all's good. Really enjoy your video's Brian. Makes one take time and solve the problem without changing out parts. Thanks.
Good video Thanks Brian. I remove 2 or 3 of these every month and disassemble them and b;low out the dirt inside. I have taken several spoons full of dirt out of some. One car, I believe it was a honda, had a remote breather on the end and sucked from inside a frame rail way over on the other side of the car. The hose had a cup full of small stones plugging it. We drive a lot of gravel roads here. I think there is a kit to reposition the valve to under the hood where there isn"t as much dust.
Man I just found your channel...and respect how you opened up and said let me show you how to test it if you want to know and go about your business 💪🏾💪🏾. I watched who show after that!!!
11:50 hit GOLD with me - did NOT know that for vacuum leak codes. TY!!!!!!!!!!! HUGE time savings - '03 S10 FINALLY is working. BEST VIDEO EVER FOR EXPLAINING IN SIMPLE TERMS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Brian, I appreciate the detail and time you take to put these videos out. Your amongst the best on TH-cam up there with, ETCG, Scanner Danner, Eric O to name a few. Also your just a cool guy!
Thanks for showing how simple it can be to test a part, it's the first time Ive commented on any of the many videos I've watched on TH-cam, I'll make sure to clean mine up before I test it.
Your awesome 👏🏾 i understand everything I can grasp a little what you saying but I had to watch another video to completely understand it I was illiterate in school didn’t know how to read until I was 20years old now I’m 47 age and I been fixing my own car 🚗 Thanks your videos help educate me ! 👍
Brian next time you run across a bad evap canister try taking the lid off , cleaning it with compressed air then spray wd 40 or kroil down the tube. That freed up the solenoid and mine started working again. It must be all the dust and debris causing the solenoid to malfunction.
Always check your hoses, I found out on my Tahoe the hose that connected in between the canister and the fuel vent valve was completely cracked open at the ends.i replaced the hose and that fixed the problem and I spent nothing but my time and had a piece of fuel hose kicking around, so watch out.
Another great video, very informative. I see a lot of the newer silverados, tahoes, and suburbans(as well as their gmc counterparts) come in to the dealership for the p0449 and p0455 codes 9 out of 10 times it's going to be a bad vent valve. I always test the circuit along with the valve by using control functions on my scan tool because that 1 out of 10 times it could be a frayed wire, blown fuse, loose terminal, etc. but not everybody has access to a scan tool with control functions. That's why this is still a great video for the DIYer at home. You can put it into terms that people with little mechanical experience can understand.
Great explanation of the evap system for a weekend mechanic like me.I currently have an evap issue and now I know what to look for. Yes, I did replace the gas cap so onward.
Thx. Good diagram. I had to replace both the purge and vent valves. Both were toast. Didn’t realize that vent valve was so easy to reach on the old Tahoe’s so thanks for showing us how to swap it out in one of your videos !
+1 for the whiteboard markup. You did an excellent job forming the basis to how this system works. So many videos focus on specifics which don't relate from person to person due to vehicle differences. Yours sets a framework to start from for investigating these issues. Awesome job!
Thank you. I've been trying to fix this on my pathfinder by trail and error, I changed the vent valve and i changed my gas cap but still evap error. Pretty annoying check engine light that I just learned to live with, but with your video i feel like have a much better understanding of the whole system to figure it out. My mechanic friend tried to explain this to me before and ive googled info on it before and just been left utterly confused, but your video was so good I feel like now I can teach someone how it works now. Thank you and subscribed.
thanks brian for info having same problem with my 04 Silverado gonna ck it out tomorrow like fixing stuff myself to keep others from messing it up you make it easier to understand keep the good work
Thanks for the video. I have a 2007 Sub with only 74 miles. Check engine light turned on with OBD code P0446 (Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit 1/1. I've replaced the gas cap, vapor vent canister valve, vapor jumper wire and the Emissions Vapor Canister Purge Valve Solenoid EVAP Vent ( I don't think it's necessary but I did it anyway). Cleared it and the check engine light is gone but after driving 93 miles, the I/M is still not ready with a combo drive of city and fwy. Drove it for another mile and after 6 cycles, when I ran the OBD at 94 miles to see if it's I/M ready, unfortunately I see the same "pending" P0446 code despite driving it up to 110 miles hoping it will clear on it's own. So I decided to erase the pending code/OBD and did the same thing again. Drove it up to 92 miles without check engine, still not I/M ready and at 94 miles later it's still not ready and the "pending" p0446 code is back. Replaced the vapor vent canister valve, vapor jumper wire again just in case I have a bad part, but unfortunately pending P0446 code is back. I'm hesitating on replacing the vapor canister/charcoal cause I don't have issue filling up gas and no gas odor around the area too. Could it be the another bad vent valve? fuel tank pressure solenoid? I hope not... cause I know this is pretty common on the 2006 but not on the 2007. Cleared it for the 3rd and 4th time, gas level is between 3/4 or 1/2 and the pending code is on after 10 miles but still not I/M ready. Should I just keep going and repeat the drive cycle until it clears or do I need to change the ftp and the VC charcoal too? I'd really appreciate yours suggestion.
I've been in school for automotive been doing it for years and I must say it sure sounds like you've got a good working experience with the knowledge and people should benefit by your free education buddy
so if I understood correctly the relationship between the vent solenoid and purge solenoid the vent solenoid stays open when engine is off so you can add fuel to the fuel tank while the purge solenoid stay closed then when you start the engine opposite occurs the vent shuts and the purge opens to draw gasoline fumes to the intake ? I think I have a vacuum leak or dead oxygen sensor, my gas mileage is very poor.
Evans Cheruiyot how that would be a no if engine is off they would not be open why would they be open they wouldn't be working if they were open... you need to do a little bit more studying... if the car is not running and the are open you're going to be venting gas fumes into the atmosphere now is that something we want to occur with what this apparatus system is supposed to do?
Evans Cheruiyot you see that's because you don't tighten up the gas cap probably screwed on wrong that or you have more problem than what you really looking at... it doesn't just have to be during fueling there could be another smaller vacuum leak somewhere within this system... and you're just attributing it to be a fueling issue when you're filling up the car of course you are venting a certain amount of fumes just by the fact that you are fueling the vehicle that's a given that's a closed system list of vehicles is running and that's the only times in EVAP Is.open or storeing or release it is going to intake into the motor not the atmosphere... and when it does that the vent valve is going open because you have to have the atmosphere go through there to moving around from where you want it is that valve is closed the atmosphere is not going to help push through the system the fumes the hydrocarbons you either going to send it one way or they're going to put it in storage with a car off the vent valve would be releasing the fumes into the atmosphere if the purge valve is open when the engine is off it's going to be releasing fumes into the atmosphere if your gas tank cap is loose or missing lines are you have a brake leak in the system it's going to be venting fuel fumes into the atmosphere... and I just ate intake password would be introduced into the cylinder heads which would go into cylinder be compressed by the piston... and most the time that was referred to before your mass airflow sensor right... In the bellows... it would have to be measured with a rest of everything gmjust like the rest of the gas is getting sucked into your engine... so I got to be calculated out by the computer
I see okay, my gas cap rubber gasket is dried out and has cracks so I will be changing that for sure, it has activated a check engine light a few times already and every-time I had to turn off engine and re-tighten the cap after that I suppose it time for a vacuum test since vent solenoid is new.
Outstanding! Brevity, clarity, visual aids and yet a complete system breakdown. I liked, subscribed and will watch more of your videos. Thanks for the hard work to help others.
Good video, great explanation. Most of the ones I've had off were just dirty. Blow that old valve out and it will likely work, should also take out the foam filter inside and clean it too. . I;ve done lots of these. I just did an 08 Buick lucerne, and dumped half a cup of dust out of the valve and canister filter. I've seen trucks where you have to remount that valve to under the hood to keep them clean.
Man I think you’re my favorite go to guy to find a diy video. Do more diesels please 6.0 powerstroke and 5.9 12 valve if possible. Mods would be cool as well on the diesels. Thank you for not saying pointless stuff and dragging videos out by talking like a dbag.
I have a 750i BMW, when we try to fill the gas tank it will only allow a small amount of gas before it cuts the flow off and it takes forever to fill it up. I suspect the vent or the vent valve is likely the problem. What do you think? How difficult is it to fix/ or exchange? Thank you for the great video 😊
HEY!!! Ive done that blow test! And it worked...."Keep blowing, keep blowing, keep blowing, keep blowing. OK sir we are going to charge you with Driving Under the Influence..." Stay gold.
I already had a good ideal of how it all worked, but kept forgetting names, & etc. The way you explain everything put total confidence in me as I will be tackling this project this upcoming weekend of checking & possibly changing out the pressure valve or solenoid. If you happen to see this or anyone who may know,. I was just wandering if a smoke test could be done on pressure control valve :; vent valve: Thank-You Calvin
I think the charcoal canister should have an xtra hose going to the center of hood with a piezzio igniter and the piezzio igniter operates off the windshield wiper so when the wipers on the bugs flying over the hood burn up before they hit the windshield....just thinking here.....
Thanks Brian, for this video !!! You are one of the 4-5 ones, I even ask anything here in you tube, most of the people are kind of like " guessing mechanics" ;o). Well, I have a good one for you today: I am going crazy with my Mustang 2004 , 3. 8 litre engine! Idle is so, so sky high almost all the time, after I changed fuel pump to 255 lph, and bigger throttle body, 70 mm?? I had "check the engine" light coming on, even before that, saying large vacuum leak somewhere??, and " check your fuel cap"?? I did change fuel cap, no help??Now, codes are: P0507 IA control higher than expected??, ...sure know that, Idle goes first to 2500, and after 20 -30 secs goes down to 1100 -1200, never lower??, and the other code is: P0405, Exhaust gas recirculation sensor a Circuit Low?? I did change DPFE sensor year ago, tested it now, actually bought a new one, no help, will return it, have changed TPC, IAC sensor, new EGR valve, did check leaks under hood, vacuum hoses, no leaks, did check canister solenoid in rear, seems fine, 12 V coming in, closes, when 12 V applied, did take out canister purge valve, in front, under fender in Mustang, could not really test it, like here, opened it, cleaned it, put it back, 12 V coming in??? Could that be open all the time?? And make idle go high like that?? Will change that next, after I return that new DPFE sensor, did not need that =) Going crazy here, pelase, help meeeeee ! Could there be a leak above gas tank?? What do I do next?? Smoke test?? Thanks, youtheman =)
Brian wish you would have shown how to disconnect the hose from the solenoid. I cant figure out if you squeeze the flat areas together or if there is something you push in to release the lock . so I am just stuck on a sunday morning.Really enjoy your videos...
great explanation, but i believe in order for engine vacuum to pull HC's from the charcoal canister, both the purge and vent solenoids should be opened at the same time.
happy543210 You're right. Thank you for pointing that out. They're pulsed in relation to the engine RPM. I focused on the evaporative properties associated with vacuum like in air conditioning systems and I failed to include that air wash is also used. I'll have to do a separate video on that. In the mean time, ADPTraining has a good video on that here → th-cam.com/video/IzfR84T6pBY/w-d-xo.html Check it out. Thanks again!
+briansmobile1 lol didn't know that you knew who I was. I hear my subs talking about you and thought I would come by and check out your content. Good to meet you Brian. Talk later
+ScannerDanner I follow both your channels. Just had the Evap and Temperature control motor fixes on a 2006 Sierra. Also did a nice super fast IAC Valve diagnose on a 2000 Accord thanks to Scanners "plug the hole" trick. Yall are great keep it up. Stay gold.
Thanks for this video ! I have a constant gas smell when I drive my '02 DOHC 3.0 Taurus. I changed the gas cap last week, and that didn't fix it. Now that I've watched this video, I think the problem that I'm having is the vapor vent valve. The other problem is that I have no Check Engine light. I'll check the code reader again tomorrow, but the last time I checked for codes, there wasn't any codes on it.
My Van has been running rich for a year, several mechanics haven't known why, (or just don't care) After watching a million TH-cam videos I now think it's purge valve or vent valve, I ordered purge already so starting there, well after already changing DPFE. But I have a Lot of pressure in the tank, that releases when I open the gas cap. So I think one of those. It's a 2002 Ford e150 with 5.4
Great video. Best explanation of how the whole Evap system works. Glad it's on a '03 Silverado 5.3 since that's my truck too. . I had an P0446 Code. I replaced the vent valve and the code went away....however, I got a P0449 code showing up after a few minutes. I replaced the gas cap with an AC Delco and the code persists. Any suggestions or videos on how to figure this out if the vent valve has been replaced?
Thanks for the insights and your clear explanation the problem is knowing where all this components are located in an engine also time to find the problems some mechanics want a lot of money from less than twenty minutes job or even make people replace parts that have no problems at all.
Good Morning Brian, first of all I want to Thank you for your Awesome Videos! I just replaced my Knock sensors on my 2005 chevy Silverado crew cab 5.3 and right after I finished I have a code P0449, as you know I had to remove the intake and also the hose to the purge solenoid, my question is could I have possibly installed the hose wrong to the purge solenoid and have a leak?The hose going to the solenoid had a funky clip that I could not figured out well. Thanks in advance for a response!
excellant video Heres the problem Gas tank fills l really slowly . Vent valve was replaced . Still slowly. Tested new vent valve with 12 volts applied no click/ no blow resistance Tested old valve same thing . If it's venting "open" to atmosphere when filling why should fill be slow? . Or should it be closed when filling ? 12 volts are not being applied when engine is off at gas pump ? Am I thinking in reverse or what ? Thanks
i think your video was great i have watched so many videos of people that post there fixes and there a a joke i worked in a shop for 18 years and you actually can explain and do things right
I got a P0446 code on my 05 'F250. Verified 12v to the plug at the evap vent solenoid. Tested the vent solenoid, and it seems to be stuck open. Replaced the vent valve solenoid, and code did not disappear. Verified that the new vent valve works correctly. Should I look for something else? Only other symptom I get is sometimes when filling up, the gas nozzle clicks off. Gas cap and fuel filler neck looks ok. Hoses around the evap canister look good.
when the gas in tank partially consumed ..vacuum created in the gas tank ..air should enter tank to account for this vacuum ..this air come from gas tank cap or solenoid vent valve?
My 2006 Impala also had a P0449 and after I replaced the evap canister, the engine light is still on!?So, I put a plastic bag to seal the gas cap and the engine light is still on!?What do I do now? Oh! Awesome video. Thanks.
as long as its not plugged in to the harness polarity shouldn't matter it's just a coil. now that i put my .02 in, have you ever seen a p1457 caused by a bad vent solenoid? i tested mine and it passes air even energized, i think your vid verified i wasn't sure if they were a weird 2 way deal or something.
Awesome video 👍👍👍 I recently replaced the EVAP leak pump to a 07 bmw 328i but I still getting the code P240A if you are familiar to this problem can you give me an advise what to do next besides the smoke machine Do I have to program the new EVAP leak pump I got a original bmw part I don’t know if the new part is faulty do you know how to test the pump with a OBD2 scanner or with a multimeter proves thank you
Brian, your videos are BY FAR the most informative of the few times I've used this method for DIY repairs. I watched your video on p0449 vent valve testing, and learned how the system operates, however..... I have a 2012 Chevy Impala with code p0496, and despite the knowledge that these lights come on for specific and/or important reasons, the car starts and runs perfect EXCEPT after turning it off to fuel up. Then when starting, it turns over for approximately 3-5sec before it fires, followed by a couple seconds of erratic idle, then runs like a champ until fueling again. I am unsure of which component to begin with on my evap system (vent valve, purge solenoid, canister, etc), though I'd prefer to start with the least expensive. I possess very little equipment/testing tools, but have the essentials for parts removal. Any info or tips you'd possibly be willing to share would be greatly appreciated. Again, impressive and informative presentations you've compiled, great job. ;)
I was having the EVAP codes on my 2003 GM 3800. The scan tool told me the vent valve was working... So, I tested the purge valve up on the motor, it tested good, held a vacuum. But, it was an aftermarket unit, so I bought the correct ACDelco unit, I think $28, and the codes magically went away. Personally, I have never had any luck with aftermarket sensors or pumps, etc... Just thought I would throw this out there.
Hello Brian. I have two questions is it possible to fix the wires to Evap canister without lifting bed?? Also what’s best way to get hose connector off the Evap canister.? In the process of chang part I found out wires were cut long ago and just fixed with electrical tape so I’m kinda at a stand still now. Thanks in advance for any info
I do appreciate this video, and your additional candid responses to the information that you provided. I do appreciate your follow-up that you included while the video was playing. This video was very helpful in diagnosing a problem that I was having with an error code 0446 on one of my vehicles. :-)
I'm having a problem with the gas coming back up on my 2005 Chevy suburban. So went to my local auto parts store and the code po 449, I saw a few videos indicating it could be the vapor container purge valve the evaporator container vent solenoid and the evaporator charcoal canister in which I changed all three and I'm still having the same problem not able to fill up. What do you think can be wrong?
Question. I have a 2001 Ford F250 and the Fuel Vapor Tube Assembly that connects to my vapor canister needs replaced but my issue is that I cant find a OE Replacement Tube assembly. Will it matter if I replace the tube assembly with a smaller diameter tube. The stock tube assembly iis 1/2 O.D and the replacement would be 3/8 O.D.
One question, got a p0171,new fuel pump,map sensor ,air check valve fuel press reg/filter, purge sol valve, intake gasket. am also new ECUlooking for the mother of all vacuumn leaks. am replacing vent valve next, o2 sensor showing very rich. STFT49 LTFT25. Thanks , good info.
Question... I ran my engine a good 20 minutes and the valve at the engine never pulled suction although in the hose from the manifold - there was suction. So I placed my finger over the open tube on the valve for a few seconds and in doing so it began to function as it should pulling vacuum. Is it possible the valve is intermittent or sticking thus throwing the codes?
Hi can that vent valve intermittently get stuck open causing a vacuum leak?? I've been having this problem where it feels like a vacuum leak but related to fuel/evap system. Already smoked test engine including boost braker but everything checked out ok there. Also noticed short term fuel trims go really lean after refueling and starting car.Also when just idling.
Great question I have the same technical question . the charcoal canister can be defective . Ithink it can be related to the vent valve as well . If the vent valve stays in an open position it somehow blocks tank venting on fill ups ??? Not sure
Hey Brian so how can I keep my vent closed while engine is off to do a smoke test without a fancy scanner to close it or is it closed already while engine is off?
Wow. I just replaced the vent valve solenoid only 2010 F150 after 2 years of just clearing it from my dash cause I did not know what it was and I knew Ford dealership would screw me. It was such an easy fix and 2 plus years I just been resetting the engine light. Wow. Thanks for explaining it to me. Do you think any damage was caused due to waiting so long?
Toyota Celica GT 2001. I got PO440. I replaced my fuel tank cap and my vapor canister and reset my engine light. It came out again. My ODB2 scanner still gives me the same code that is PO440. Tested my purge solenoid valve that works fine the only thing that is left to check out is the vent solenoid. Any suggestion? Very good video sir. Educative, clear and neat!
Brian do you know what the 1/8 vacuum line going to a 2000 Ford Windstar purge valve does? I put a new purge valve on my 2000 Ford Windstar and long as that 1/8 vacuum line is hooked up this purge valve sounds like a quite horn blowing every time the Computer commands the thing to open. I had 250 miles to drive home this morning so unplugged that line and capped it. Made it all the way in with no codes, no fuel smell and no issues at all. Just not sure exactly what the 1/8 line does. Apparently its Top secret info.
Found this video trying to break down a problem, and I thought my vent valve could be bad, but before I go digging in- could the vent fail closed instead of open
Just appreciate the sharing of knowledge. I have watched so many of your videos and even if I'm not doing a similar repair I really appreciate the problem solving aspect and how to approach a car repair. Sincerely, Thank You.
BY FAR the BEST video illustrating the EVAP system and its functions. Thank you Brian! Been a fan and follower for years!
Hi..Thank You for the diagram and explanation...I have van that needs purge vacuum hose to be replaced.... I couldn't find a video for my van but your explanation gave me the principle of how the purge works.... I do the research and show my brother to help me fix my van and for the hard work, I just take it to the professional mechanic....it just helps me to understand labor and cost.... Also I'm hoping this will be the final fix to pass smog test
Be Bless!!!
thanks for all these TH-cam videos! I managed to check my Kia Sorento 2011 V6 3.5L and found that charcoal from canister got sucked in and clogged the purge valve, and line going to canister. I finally removed the canister and foam/filters are all busted and got about 2 Cups of gasoline. I also cleaned the line using compressed air to be sure the line is completely void of charcoal pellets. Cut the canister open using heat gun, acetone and managed to cut it cleanly. Looking inside, all flimsy foams disintegrated that's why pellets are in the line. I checked the fuel line going to the tank to be sure it's not clogged either as I saw some after disconnecting the hoses. I'm rebuilding the canister as it will cost me about $320 and it's going to take awhile to arrive!
Brian, Thank you for that white board lesson, and your time. The details about how the system works is one reasons why your video is exceptional. Knowing how the system works helps immensely. I am a middle aged woman; so, I was not raised helping my dad fix things. Your video is good for two reasons: I can attempt to fix my own vehicle in my driveway. If I cannot accomplish the task (sometimes I don't have the muscle required, or the tools) at least I have an idea of what the problem actually is when I bring my vehicle to an automotive shop. As a woman, over the years I have been told false information more than once when bringing my vehicles to mechanics I did not know. Although, most mechanics are nice honest people. Thank you.
+Judith Buckley You're welcome Judith!
Hello, I must say thank you. I have a silverado with the code 449. I had some damaged lines so I replaced those and the code persisted. So I removed the solenoid and wasn’t sure how to test it without a costly scan tool, I rely on blue driver and although that’s an awesome tool, it’s only can give information, not test, etc.
So I found this video. I went to amazon, ordered the tester, got it today, did the test procedure you describe and BOOM.... I have confirmation the solenoid is faulty. Although it confirmed a bad solenoid, it was a relief to have the answer. Will get the part, replace and go on with life. Thanks for this video, I am so relieved.
Also, got a new tool to add to my box. I’m new to the industry. Will be starting tech school most likely this fall. Depending on scheduling. Funny thing, I went to university and obtained a masters degree in psychology. What a mistake. I should have went to tech school first. I had this desire to work on cars. To have a problem and fix it. Added with my love for all things automotive, I should have followed my heart and not my mind. I’m not going in to this for the money, I’m doing this because I absolutely love working on vehicles. I already know my way around vehicles, I have two vehicles approaching 200k, a truck and a Mazda. I’ve rebuilt all of the suspension, replaced the AC comp, and did a complete brake job on the Mazda. On the Silverado, I’ve done the fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel lines, blower motor, oil leak on oil pan, diagnosed a parasitic draw, replaced the suspension and brakes. All though this is easy work, I’ve learned a lot. I’m looking forward to getting started.
Once I graduate, I’m blessed with the ability to start my own business. I’m planning to buy a work truck that can carry all my tools and supplies with room for common parts, equip the truck to handle everything short of engine out and start off as a mobile mechanic doing light maintenance and repairs. As I gain experience, get further training and I feel confident in my competency, then I’ll add more complex services to my offerings. I’m aware of the challenges this entails. I’m aware I’ll have rough days. I’m aware customers can be... um....you know. One thing I also know, I can’t get from here to my goal without traversing the path that gets me their. All the while learning along the way. I’ve already had people have me work on their vehicles. They see me work on mine and want me to work on theirs. I actually have a regular customer now, a veteran. I work on his truck. Nice guy. I work for parts and lunch. Don’t charge labor. I figure I’m getting as much out of the experience as he is from having his vehicle fixed. When I’m finished with school, I won’t be able to work for free, but service persons of all types will get a good discount.
My absolute biggest goal? I’m gonna be that repairman that has a waitlist because everyone knows, I’m honest to the core. I absolutely will never say “yeah, I can do that” if I have the slightest inclination I won’t be able to. I also won’t use scare tactics, if a car is seeping oil, it doesn’t usually need fixed that moment (with rare exceptions). I’m building my vision on honesty and quality. By doing those things right, I won’t have to worry about if I’ll have enough work.
Long winded, I know. Started down this path over a year ago. Best decision I’ve made. Looking forward to a lot more exciting repairs.
Brian your videos are always much appreciated, no need to debate whether you want to go with short or long videos based on content. do whats right for you we'll understand. your efforts go into these videos and you deserve to be compensated.
Hey Brian, thanks for this. After my dad passed away, I got his Chevy S10 with the 4.3 engine. It only has 51,000 miles, and it is a money pit. The other day, I got the P0442 code. My mechanic said, it's probably the vent valve. He told me, he has never had to replace the purge valve, but the vent valves always go. I'm gonna tackle this one myself. If it does turn out to be the purge valve, I'll probably have my mechanic tackle that. But thanks for a great video, and yep, I just subscribed to you and gave you a thumbs up. Thanks !
I just pulled a 456 code on my 2013 Ford Focus. I "smoked" the system and found no leaks. Checked the purge solenoid valve for operation only to find it leaking. Replaced the valve, all's good. Really enjoy your video's Brian. Makes one take time and solve the problem without changing out parts. Thanks.
$50,000 semester in 5 minutes for free, thanks for sharing this is great
Good video Thanks Brian. I remove 2 or 3 of these every month and disassemble them and b;low out the dirt inside. I have taken several spoons full of dirt out of some. One car, I believe it was a honda, had a remote breather on the end and sucked from inside a frame rail way over on the other side of the car. The hose had a cup full of small stones plugging it. We drive a lot of gravel roads here. I think there is a kit to reposition the valve to under the hood where there isn"t as much dust.
Man I just found your channel...and respect how you opened up and said let me show you how to test it if you want to know and go about your business 💪🏾💪🏾. I watched who show after that!!!
Thank you for breaking it down and showing how the Evap system works. It makes a lot more sense now!
11:50 hit GOLD with me - did NOT know that for vacuum leak codes. TY!!!!!!!!!!! HUGE time savings - '03 S10 FINALLY is working. BEST VIDEO EVER FOR EXPLAINING IN SIMPLE TERMS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Brian, I appreciate the detail and time you take to put these videos out. Your amongst the best on TH-cam up there with, ETCG, Scanner Danner, Eric O to name a few. Also your just a cool guy!
Thanks for showing how simple it can be to test a part, it's the first time Ive commented on any of the many videos I've watched on TH-cam, I'll make sure to clean mine up before I test it.
Your awesome 👏🏾 i understand everything I can grasp a little what you saying but I had to watch another video to completely understand it I was illiterate in school didn’t know how to read until I was 20years old now I’m 47 age and I been fixing my own car 🚗 Thanks your videos help educate me ! 👍
Brian next time you run across a bad evap canister try taking the lid off , cleaning it with compressed air then spray wd 40 or kroil down the tube. That freed up the solenoid and mine started working again. It must be all the dust and debris causing the solenoid to malfunction.
+scot miller your practical method save lots of money !
Always check your hoses, I found out on my Tahoe the hose that connected in between the canister and the fuel vent valve was completely cracked open at the ends.i replaced the hose and that fixed the problem and I spent nothing but my time and had a piece of fuel hose kicking around, so watch out.
Did your engine stall when pulling off hard
This is the best video out there addressing EVAP codes for the 03 Silverado, and a great overall discussion about the EVAP system. Thanks!
Another great video, very informative. I see a lot of the newer silverados, tahoes, and suburbans(as well as their gmc counterparts) come in to the dealership for the p0449 and p0455 codes 9 out of 10 times it's going to be a bad vent valve. I always test the circuit along with the valve by using control functions on my scan tool because that 1 out of 10 times it could be a frayed wire, blown fuse, loose terminal, etc. but not everybody has access to a scan tool with control functions. That's why this is still a great video for the DIYer at home. You can put it into terms that people with little mechanical experience can understand.
Great explanation of the evap system for a weekend mechanic like me.I currently have an evap issue and now I know what to look for. Yes, I did replace the gas cap so onward.
Thx. Good diagram. I had to replace both the purge and vent valves. Both were toast. Didn’t realize that vent valve was so easy to reach on the old Tahoe’s so thanks for showing us how to swap it out in one of your videos !
You're welcome!
+1 for the whiteboard markup. You did an excellent job forming the basis to how this system works. So many videos focus on specifics which don't relate from person to person due to vehicle differences. Yours sets a framework to start from for investigating these issues. Awesome job!
+Chris Zanchi Thanks!
Awesome to see videos on EVAP problems. Too many people are scared of them.
Im guilty lol. just wanted to see the basic operation of the system i kind of have an ide now
Great textbook example. I always enjoy your white board classroom sessions. Thank you Brian.
Thank you. I've been trying to fix this on my pathfinder by trail and error, I changed the vent valve and i changed my gas cap but still evap error. Pretty annoying check engine light that I just learned to live with, but with your video i feel like have a much better understanding of the whole system to figure it out. My mechanic friend tried to explain this to me before and ive googled info on it before and just been left utterly confused, but your video was so good I feel like now I can teach someone how it works now. Thank you and subscribed.
Great break down, I honestly didn't understand, even after the " smarter guys"! Laymens never lets you down. thanks brother.
thanks brian for info having same problem with my 04 Silverado gonna ck it out tomorrow like fixing stuff myself to keep others from messing it up you make it easier to understand keep the good work
Thanks for the video. I have a 2007 Sub with only 74 miles. Check engine light turned on with OBD code P0446 (Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit 1/1. I've replaced the gas cap, vapor vent canister valve, vapor jumper wire and the Emissions Vapor Canister Purge Valve Solenoid EVAP Vent ( I don't think it's necessary but I did it anyway). Cleared it and the check engine light is gone but after driving 93 miles, the I/M is still not ready with a combo drive of city and fwy. Drove it for another mile and after 6 cycles, when I ran the OBD at 94 miles to see if it's I/M ready, unfortunately I see the same "pending" P0446 code despite driving it up to 110 miles hoping it will clear on it's own. So I decided to erase the pending code/OBD and did the same thing again. Drove it up to 92 miles without check engine, still not I/M ready and at 94 miles later it's still not ready and the "pending" p0446 code is back. Replaced the vapor vent canister valve, vapor jumper wire again just in case I have a bad part, but unfortunately pending P0446 code is back. I'm hesitating on replacing the vapor canister/charcoal cause I don't have issue filling up gas and no gas odor around the area too. Could it be the another bad vent valve? fuel tank pressure solenoid? I hope not... cause I know this is pretty common on the 2006 but not on the 2007.
Cleared it for the 3rd and 4th time, gas level is between 3/4 or 1/2 and the pending code is on after 10 miles but still not I/M ready. Should I just keep going and repeat the drive cycle until it clears or do I need to change the ftp and the VC charcoal too? I'd really appreciate yours suggestion.
Great explanation on how the system works. I'm sure it was a mystery for a lot of people.
I've been in school for automotive been doing it for years and I must say it sure sounds like you've got a good working experience with the knowledge and people should benefit by your free education buddy
so if I understood correctly the relationship between the vent solenoid and purge solenoid the vent solenoid stays open when engine is off so you can add fuel to the fuel tank while the purge solenoid stay closed then when you start the engine opposite occurs the vent shuts and the purge opens to draw gasoline fumes to the intake ? I think I have a vacuum leak or dead oxygen sensor, my gas mileage is very poor.
Evans Cheruiyot how that would be a no if engine is off they would not be open why would they be open they wouldn't be working if they were open... you need to do a little bit more studying... if the car is not running and the are open you're going to be venting gas fumes into the atmosphere now is that something we want to occur with what this apparatus system is supposed to do?
so why does the problem of filling up the fuel tank occur ?
Evans Cheruiyot you see that's because you don't tighten up the gas cap probably screwed on wrong that or you have more problem than what you really looking at... it doesn't just have to be during fueling there could be another smaller vacuum leak somewhere within this system... and you're just attributing it to be a fueling issue when you're filling up the car of course you are venting a certain amount of fumes just by the fact that you are fueling the vehicle that's a given that's a closed system list of vehicles is running and that's the only times in EVAP Is.open or storeing or release it is going to intake into the motor not the atmosphere... and when it does that the vent valve is going open because you have to have the atmosphere go through there to moving around from where you want it is that valve is closed the atmosphere is not going to help push through the system the fumes the hydrocarbons you either going to send it one way or they're going to put it in storage with a car off the vent valve would be releasing the fumes into the atmosphere if the purge valve is open when the engine is off it's going to be releasing fumes into the atmosphere if your gas tank cap is loose or missing lines are you have a brake leak in the system it's going to be venting fuel fumes into the atmosphere... and I just ate intake password would be introduced into the cylinder heads which would go into cylinder be compressed by the piston... and most the time that was referred to before your mass airflow sensor right... In the bellows... it would have to be measured with a rest of everything gmjust like the rest of the gas is getting sucked into your engine... so I got to be calculated out by the computer
I see okay, my gas cap rubber gasket is dried out and has cracks so I will be changing that for sure, it has activated a check engine light a few times already and every-time I had to turn off engine and re-tighten the cap after that I suppose it time for a vacuum test since vent solenoid is new.
Outstanding! Brevity, clarity, visual aids and yet a complete system breakdown. I liked, subscribed and will watch more of your videos. Thanks for the hard work to help others.
+Dave D Thanks Dave!
Good video, great explanation. Most of the ones I've had off were just dirty. Blow that old valve out and it will likely work, should also take out the foam filter inside and clean it too. . I;ve done lots of these. I just did an 08 Buick lucerne, and dumped half a cup of dust out of the valve and canister filter. I've seen trucks where you have to remount that valve to under the hood to keep them clean.
Man I think you’re my favorite go to guy to find a diy video. Do more diesels please 6.0 powerstroke and 5.9 12 valve if possible. Mods would be cool as well on the diesels. Thank you for not saying pointless stuff and dragging videos out by talking like a dbag.
Thanks for the request and the feedback.
I have a 750i BMW, when we try to fill the gas tank it will only allow a small amount of gas before it cuts the flow off and it takes forever to fill it up. I suspect the vent or the vent valve is likely the problem. What do you think? How difficult is it to fix/ or exchange? Thank you for the great video 😊
Wow had to wait tot the very end to hear about the "snorkel" thing - MADE HUGE DIFFERENCE - bought the WRONG ONE!!!! EZ-PZ TY very much!!!!!
HEY!!! Ive done that blow test! And it worked...."Keep blowing, keep blowing, keep blowing, keep blowing. OK sir we are going to charge you with Driving Under the Influence..."
Stay gold.
+dnl machine Ha ha~! kill'n me!
Well explained Brian - Lucid and to the point - Thanks for taking the time out.
I already had a good ideal of how it all worked, but kept forgetting names, & etc. The way you explain everything put total confidence in me as I will be tackling this project this upcoming weekend of checking & possibly changing out the pressure valve or solenoid.
If you happen to see this or anyone who may know,. I was just wandering if a smoke test
could be done on pressure
control valve :; vent valve:
Thank-You Calvin
so satisfying to see a proper explanation. make more videos. thank you!
Thanks, Brian. Very helpful. I can't tell you how much I learned from this.
I think the charcoal canister should have an xtra hose going to the center of hood with a piezzio igniter and the piezzio igniter operates off the windshield wiper so when the wipers on the bugs flying over the hood burn up before they hit the windshield....just thinking here.....
danekeeper1 OMG! I LOVE IT! Points for creativity!
Thanks Brian, for this video !!! You are one of the 4-5 ones, I even ask anything here in you tube, most of the people are kind of like " guessing mechanics" ;o). Well, I have a good one for you today: I am going crazy with my Mustang 2004 , 3. 8 litre engine! Idle is so, so sky high almost all the time, after I changed fuel pump to 255 lph, and bigger throttle body, 70 mm?? I had "check the engine" light coming on, even before that, saying large vacuum leak somewhere??, and " check your fuel cap"?? I did change fuel cap, no help??Now, codes are: P0507 IA control higher than expected??, ...sure know that, Idle goes first to 2500, and after 20 -30 secs goes down to 1100 -1200, never lower??, and the other code is: P0405, Exhaust gas recirculation sensor a Circuit Low?? I did change DPFE sensor year ago, tested it now, actually bought a new one, no help, will return it, have changed TPC, IAC sensor, new EGR valve, did check leaks under hood, vacuum hoses, no leaks, did check canister solenoid in rear, seems fine, 12 V coming in, closes, when 12 V applied, did take out canister purge valve, in front, under fender in Mustang, could not really test it, like here, opened it, cleaned it, put it back, 12 V coming in??? Could that be open all the time?? And make idle go high like that?? Will change that next, after I return that new DPFE sensor, did not need that =) Going crazy here, pelase, help meeeeee ! Could there be a leak above gas tank?? What do I do next?? Smoke test?? Thanks, youtheman =)
Thank you probably one of the best videos for the evap system.
Brian wish you would have shown how to disconnect the hose from the solenoid. I cant figure out if you squeeze the flat areas together or if there is something you push in to release the lock . so I am just stuck on a sunday morning.Really enjoy your videos...
great explanation, but i believe in order for engine vacuum to pull HC's from the charcoal canister, both the purge and vent solenoids should be opened at the same time.
happy543210 You're right. Thank you for pointing that out. They're pulsed in relation to the engine RPM. I focused on the evaporative properties associated with vacuum like in air conditioning systems and I failed to include that air wash is also used. I'll have to do a separate video on that. In the mean time, ADPTraining has a good video on that here → th-cam.com/video/IzfR84T6pBY/w-d-xo.html Check it out. Thanks again!
Yesss! Those are the exact quick connectors on the vent to canister hose on my 06 Surburban. Now how do you disconnect them without breaking them?
Just dropping in to say hello. You have a great base (I'm jealous) keep up the great work Brian.
+ScannerDanner HOLY CRAP!!! Scanner Danner is on my channel!!!!! YEAH!!!!!
+briansmobile1 lol didn't know that you knew who I was. I hear my subs talking about you and thought I would come by and check out your content.
Good to meet you Brian. Talk later
+ScannerDanner I follow both your channels. Just had the Evap and Temperature control motor fixes on a 2006 Sierra. Also did a nice super fast IAC Valve diagnose on a 2000 Accord thanks to Scanners "plug the hole" trick.
Yall are great keep it up.
Stay gold.
+dnl machine nice. Thanks man
great video brian...my vcv stuck open and my cruise control quit working also so cruise works on the evap system also...
Can do the same thing if you scan tool has bidirectional function for the purge solenoid. Great explanation.
The Purge Valve works opposite, letting air through (valve opening) when voltage is applied.
thanks for your vids man,I work on all my own stuff and your vids almost always are the best and most detailed..Keep it up,you teach me ALOT
Excellent vid on EVAP. So glad people take the time to do this. Very helpful! Keep trucking!
Thanks for this video ! I have a constant gas smell when I drive my '02 DOHC 3.0 Taurus. I changed the gas cap last week, and that didn't fix it. Now that I've watched this video, I think the problem that I'm having is the vapor vent valve. The other problem is that I have no Check Engine light. I'll check the code reader again tomorrow, but the last time I checked for codes, there wasn't any codes on it.
My Van has been running rich for a year, several mechanics haven't known why,
(or just don't care)
After watching a million TH-cam videos I now think it's purge valve or vent valve, I ordered purge already so starting there, well after already changing DPFE.
But I have a Lot of pressure in the tank, that releases when I open the gas cap.
So I think one of those.
It's a 2002 Ford e150 with 5.4
Great explaining of the EVAP system thanks
Great video. Best explanation of how the whole Evap system works. Glad it's on a '03 Silverado 5.3 since that's my truck too. . I had an P0446 Code. I replaced the vent valve and the code went away....however, I got a P0449 code showing up after a few minutes. I replaced the gas cap with an AC Delco and the code persists. Any suggestions or videos on how to figure this out if the vent valve has been replaced?
Thanks for the info! :) My 03 Jeep Cherokee is throwing me this code after I went off roading through some mud/ water. Now I know what to look for.
Thanks for the insights and your clear explanation the problem is knowing where all this components are located in an engine also time to find the problems some mechanics want a lot of money from less than twenty minutes job or even make people replace parts that have no problems at all.
Good Morning Brian, first of all I want to Thank you for your Awesome Videos!
I just replaced my Knock sensors on my 2005 chevy Silverado crew cab 5.3 and right after I finished I have a code P0449, as you know I had to remove the intake and also the hose to the purge solenoid, my question is could I have possibly installed the hose wrong to the purge solenoid and have a leak?The hose going to the solenoid had a funky clip that I could not figured out well.
Thanks in advance for a response!
excellant video Heres the problem Gas tank fills l really slowly . Vent valve was replaced . Still slowly. Tested new vent valve with 12 volts applied no click/ no blow resistance Tested old valve same thing . If it's venting "open" to atmosphere when filling why should fill be slow? . Or should it be closed when filling ? 12 volts are not being applied when engine is off at gas pump ? Am I thinking in reverse or what ? Thanks
Excellent Instructions and explanation. Easy for me to comprehend.
All I have are positive things to say about this video. Best one for this topic by far !!!!!
Thank you for explaining this. Had this issue for years. Finally understand it. Thanks.
Shhhhh! Brian is teaching me how to vape with my evap solenoid.
i think your video was great i have watched so many videos of people that post there fixes and there a a joke i worked in a shop for 18 years and you actually can explain and do things right
Hello Brian great video could this also be part of the cars were having trouble getting gas into my fuel tank keeps shutting off like it’s full?
I got a P0446 code on my 05 'F250. Verified 12v to the plug at the evap vent solenoid. Tested the vent solenoid, and it seems to be stuck open. Replaced the vent valve solenoid, and code did not disappear. Verified that the new vent valve works correctly. Should I look for something else? Only other symptom I get is sometimes when filling up, the gas nozzle clicks off. Gas cap and fuel filler neck looks ok. Hoses around the evap canister look good.
VERY EXPLANATORY! ...With a dash of humor! THANK YOU!
when the gas in tank partially consumed ..vacuum created in the gas tank ..air should enter tank to account for this vacuum ..this air come from gas tank cap or solenoid vent valve?
My 2006 Impala also had a P0449 and after I replaced the evap canister, the engine light is still on!?So, I put a plastic bag to seal the gas cap and the engine light is still on!?What do I do now? Oh! Awesome video. Thanks.
Great evap lesson Brian, will save this for future info. missed your probe Information , thanks
Thank you Brian.. good info...just mostly facts....no long stories! Thanks!
as long as its not plugged in to the harness polarity shouldn't matter it's just a coil. now that i put my .02 in, have you ever seen a p1457 caused by a bad vent solenoid? i tested mine and it passes air even energized, i think your vid verified i wasn't sure if they were a weird 2 way deal or something.
Awesome video 👍👍👍
I recently replaced the EVAP leak pump to a 07 bmw 328i but I still getting the
code P240A if you are familiar to this problem can you give me an advise what to do next besides the smoke machine
Do I have to program the new EVAP leak pump I got a original bmw part I don’t know if the new part is faulty do you know how to test the pump with a OBD2 scanner or with a multimeter proves thank you
Thanks for the diagram and explanations of the 2 valves
Brian, your videos are BY FAR the most informative of the few times I've used this method for DIY repairs. I watched your video on p0449 vent valve testing, and learned how the system operates, however..... I have a 2012 Chevy Impala with code p0496, and despite the knowledge that these lights come on for specific and/or important reasons, the car starts and runs perfect EXCEPT after turning it off to fuel up. Then when starting, it turns over for approximately 3-5sec before it fires, followed by a couple seconds of erratic idle, then runs like a champ until fueling again. I am unsure of which component to begin with on my evap system (vent valve, purge solenoid, canister, etc), though I'd prefer to start with the least expensive. I possess very little equipment/testing tools, but have the essentials for parts removal. Any info or tips you'd possibly be willing to share would be greatly appreciated. Again, impressive and informative presentations you've compiled, great job. ;)
+Jamison Raskovich I'd imagine you get thousands of requests for help.......just thought I'd take a stab at it too.
You made it all make sense for me!! Thank you
I was having the EVAP codes on my 2003 GM 3800. The scan tool told me the vent valve was working... So, I tested the purge valve up on the motor, it tested good, held a vacuum. But, it was an aftermarket unit, so I bought the correct ACDelco unit, I think $28, and the codes magically went away. Personally, I have never had any luck with aftermarket sensors or pumps, etc... Just thought I would throw this out there.
You explained this very well. Thank you!
Thanks for the video, working to fix this problem on my 2010 Fusion
Hello Brian. I have two questions is it possible to fix the wires to Evap canister without lifting bed?? Also what’s best way to get hose connector off the Evap canister.? In the process of chang part I found out wires were cut long ago and just fixed with electrical tape so I’m kinda at a stand still now. Thanks in advance for any info
Awesome thanks this explains a lot on my 06 Silverado and I will be checking mine with the famous PO449 code.
You should be a teacher, awesome explanation. Thanks.
I do appreciate this video, and your additional candid responses to the information that you provided. I do appreciate your follow-up that you included while the video was playing. This video was very helpful in diagnosing a problem that I was having with an error code 0446 on one of my vehicles. :-)
I'm having a problem with the gas coming back up on my 2005 Chevy suburban. So went to my local auto parts store and the code po 449, I saw a few videos indicating it could be the vapor container purge valve the evaporator container vent solenoid and the evaporator charcoal canister in which I changed all three and I'm still having the same problem not able to fill up. What do you think can be wrong?
Question. I have a 2001 Ford F250 and the Fuel Vapor Tube Assembly that connects to my vapor canister needs replaced but my issue is that I cant find a OE Replacement Tube assembly. Will it matter if I replace the tube assembly with a smaller diameter tube. The stock tube assembly iis 1/2 O.D and the replacement would be 3/8 O.D.
One question, got a p0171,new fuel pump,map sensor ,air check valve fuel press reg/filter, purge sol valve, intake gasket. am also new ECUlooking for the mother of all vacuumn leaks. am replacing vent valve next, o2 sensor showing very rich. STFT49 LTFT25. Thanks , good info.
Question... I ran my engine a good 20 minutes and the valve at the engine never pulled suction although in the hose from the manifold - there was suction. So I placed my finger over the open tube on the valve for a few seconds and in doing so it began to function as it should pulling vacuum. Is it possible the valve is intermittent or sticking thus throwing the codes?
Hi can that vent valve intermittently get stuck open causing a vacuum leak?? I've been having this problem where it feels like a vacuum leak but related to fuel/evap system. Already smoked test engine including boost braker but everything checked out ok there. Also noticed short term fuel trims go really lean after refueling and starting car.Also when just idling.
I wish you lived near me, I would bring you all sorts of crazy shit to work out and fix..... You have skills.
What in the system you just explained would cause the gas pump to keep turning off when filling the tank?
Great question I have the same technical question . the charcoal canister can be defective . Ithink it can be related to the vent valve as well . If the vent valve stays in an open position it somehow blocks tank venting on fill ups ??? Not sure
Hey Brian so how can I keep my vent closed while engine is off to do a smoke test without a fancy scanner to close it or is it closed already while engine is off?
Wow. I just replaced the vent valve solenoid only 2010 F150 after 2 years of just clearing it from my dash cause I did not know what it was and I knew Ford dealership would screw me. It was such an easy fix and 2 plus years I just been resetting the engine light. Wow. Thanks for explaining it to me. Do you think any damage was caused due to waiting so long?
Toyota Celica GT 2001. I got PO440. I replaced my fuel tank cap and my vapor canister and reset my engine light. It came out again. My ODB2 scanner still gives me the same code that is PO440. Tested my purge solenoid valve that works fine the only thing that is left to check out is the vent solenoid. Any suggestion? Very good video sir. Educative, clear and neat!
Brian do you know what the 1/8 vacuum line going to a 2000 Ford Windstar purge valve does?
I put a new purge valve on my 2000 Ford Windstar and long as that 1/8 vacuum line is hooked up this purge valve sounds like a quite horn blowing every time the Computer commands the thing to open.
I had 250 miles to drive home this morning so unplugged that line and capped it. Made it all the way in with no codes, no fuel smell and no issues at all.
Just not sure exactly what the 1/8 line does. Apparently its Top secret info.
Found this video trying to break down a problem, and I thought my vent valve could be bad, but before I go digging in- could the vent fail closed instead of open
Thanks Brian - great explanation!
Which hose do you clamp off to do a smoke test? On my 02 Chevy express on the charcoal canister it says purge, tank and air.
Just appreciate the sharing of knowledge. I have watched so many of your videos and even if I'm not doing a similar repair I really appreciate the problem solving aspect and how to approach a car repair. Sincerely, Thank You.
+Singing Crow you're welcome- great to see you!