Olympus OM-D E-M1 MkII - My Setup
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video, I will show you how I set up my Olympus OM-D E-M1 MkII.
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This video was made with the following gear:
My video gear:
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Olympus OM-D E-M1 MKIII
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The video was very helpful, finally I found someone that could help me with all the menus. Thank you
Glad I could help!
Peter, thank you so very, very much for getting back to me. I have been trying to do this for ever. Your advise was spot on. Thank you for all you do.
Thanks! Great that it worked!
Спасибо за видеоурок , я хоть и не знаю английский но все равно смог настроить как у вас !
Great to hear!
I am so lusting after the em 1 Mark 2 after buying the em 5 Mark 2. Olympus has me hooked.
I'm in the same boat, just got an em5-ii and I'm already thinking about upgrading to an em1. Not that the em5 is a bad camera, but the em1 just seems like the perfect kit.
I'm so happy that I picked up a hardly used em 1 mark 2 from ebay for 900 euro. The way the camera feels in the hand is amazing.
@@1957PLATO Coming from a DSLR, the one thing the EM5 lacks is good ergonomics. Even with the L-bracket grip that Olympus sells it's just a little awkward to hold.
Agree, it's a mite too small to hold comfortably for a long period of time.
Thank you so much. Your settings helps me a lot to configure my new EM1II
I purchased the MK2 this week. Thank you for this videos
Glad I could help!
Thanks Peter for your prompt feedback. My problem was fixed by changing the info settings as you suggested. Thanks again and have a great day.
Regards Warren from down under in Australia
Firmware 3.0 has introduced new menu items. If you are going to redo this vid, please either do a split screen with one side showing the settings you are working with, or less FaceTime of you and more of the settings itself. This would eliminate the need to pause so much to figure out how to navigate to the menu item at hand. Thanks for your creative efforts!
I am planning to do a video about the new best settings for E-M1 MKII.
I've set my EM1 Mkii up to your recommendations, saved in C1. Hunting through the menu for me is mostly trial & error. The settings seem like a fantastic starting point for good exposure. Nice one, thanks.
me too
I am not seeing red and blue but my settings match the video. Only difference is that J saved to C2 and not C1. Help!
Always enjoy your explanations, keep up with your outstanding videos!
Thanks!
Paljon kiitoksia for those useful explanations! It’s the first time that I comment one of your videos, therefore let me thank you for all you already did and encourage you to continue the same way. Your videos are clear, precise and well documented!
Best regards ranskasta 😉
Merci beaucoup!
I’m using similar setup but I wouldn’t sacrifice Fn Lever for power switch. Ability to instantly switch between S-AF and C-AF by flicking this lever is invaluable for me.
That is very good way of using the Fn Leveler.
This is the most perfect time to find this video!! I just got an EM1ii so I WILL be using some of these settings on my month-long backpacking trip in 2 weeks!! Thanks for sharing Peter!!!
Glad it was helpful! Your trip sounds great. Hope you have a good time and get many great memories captured.
@@ForsgardPeter If you look for the John Muir Trail in California, you will see the most beautiful mountains in the USA... all 386 km of it!!!! Big walk!!!!
Thanks for this video I get my OMD EM1 MKII tomorrow looking forward to the change. I am switching over from the Nikon DSLR system.
Good choice. I am sure you will enjoy your camera.
So pleased to have found this. Want to be able to take wildlife images that have underexposed background without resorting to flash. This visualisation of underexposure is going to help without doubt. Love the Olympus Mk2 but there is so much to learn. Thank you Peter, its not the first time I've found something of yours helpful and I'm sure it wont be the last!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the video because I am old so I had to go back to your original em 1 presentation to get all of the settings. It was the first one of yours that I watched and got me hooked.
This was so helpful! Just got my new camera today and I’m loving all the tips!
Glad it was helpful!
Right. Gonna try these on the EM5 Mk iii that's nearly the same spec.
Hi Peter, today I visited the Photo Days in Brussels and decided to upgrade from the OMD EM 10 MII to the EM1 MII. I even had a nice talk with a Japanese employee from Olympus who knows you in person. I told him that I’m a fan of your channel :-)
This video was very useful again. I use almost all these settings on my EM 10 but the menu system is different, so thanks again.
Great! Congrats for your new camera! Thank you!
About the same settings I use . Great video . Good tips on histogram and focus peaking . Thanks .
Peter, Thank you for another informative video! Keep it up. Thank you.
Thank you.
Thanks Peter! I just get my new em1m2, you help me so much with set up. Greets
Hi Peter, I agree with Peter and am using v3.1, with new menu items. Thanks for the tips. Martin
Very useful and relevant video. Thanks Peter, I look forward to your regular posts. Your comment on the noise reduction was very helpful as I find it quite annoying especially when I tend to shoot a lot of long exposures. I was never sure if the dark field subtraction at the cost of doubling the time to take the shot was any better than addressing noise in post production. Cheers. Gino
Thanks!
Thank you for your special tips 👍🏼🤗📸
You are welcome.
Actually your exposure histogram trick working perfectly on OM-D E-M10 MKII too.Just done it.
It does. Glad you can use it!
Still very informative! For my understanding the noise reduction only applies to JPEG. That’s why I have turned it on. It helps the jpeg compression and when I edit in post, I use the raw file anyway. Having both - on different sd cards - is an important setting for me.
Just bought my EM1 Mark iii and set up as per the video Peter thank you. Will get used to a few things first and look at how it goes for now.
Thank you and please ask if you have any questions about the settings.
Hi Peter. Not getting the red/blue colours coming through. Is this because the firmware is 3.1 on the Mark ii?
It is possible. Have you pressed the Info button and toggled the different options for what shows in the EVF/LCD?
interesting settings, thanks for sharing. I use my lever to set exposure compensation - both dials as I'm easily confused, so that I can use it in manual mode.
Yes, we all have different preferences and that is what I like about Olympus. It is so customisable.
many thanks Peter great info , set my E-M1mk11 to your info on the video , many thanks , must say your videos are a great mind of info , thanks once again
Thanks.
I have a G85 and just ordered an EM1 mkii in "like new" condition. I plan to use it as a dedicated macro rig and ordered the stf-8 flash, also in "like new" condition to use with the 60mm macro which I already have and have been using on the G85. Eventually I'd like to get a good long lens. I have the 75-300 mkii but it seems a waste to use that lens on the em1. I really like micro 43 and while, if I was rich, I'd also have a full frame camera with a big prime and some other lenses, I would still have a micro 43 system. I really hope to see this platform continue for many years to come. I think the move by Nikon and canon to move more towards full frame creates an even bigger opening for micro 43 if APS-C dies off. I've never had a full frame camera and I'm not against it but I like to hike and bike with my gear and the extra "reach" of the smaller sensors makes them appealing for me. I've used a canon 400mm prime and a sigma 150-600c, as well as a Nikon 200-500. The portability of the canon made it my favorite and I really liked that 600mm equivalent for most things. It had a poor MFD and lacked stabilization so I think the Olympus 300mm prime would be perfect for me but I can't afford it at the moment.
Mahalo from Hawaii! I own two E5 MKii and one Lumix G5....just received my new E1MKii today, dread the menus! Thanks for the video, got me up and shooting. I like the RED in Peak Focus, Yellow was hard to see. Did C2 to JPEG priority/Raw ...and C3 Default factory....just for safety! Thanks again. Captain Glenn
Great and thanks.
Thanks for the video. I needed to go to Info Settings in D1 to make his work. Maybe it changed
Glad it helped.
Thank you sir !
Thank you. Very helpful !
Thank you
I set C1 for my 100-400 zoom [birds], c2 for my 12-40 zoom [General Purpose], and C3 for my 50mm Macro Lens [using an adapter].
Thanks Peter, I ordered the E-M1II these days, since the firmware update added some great features. Just waiting for it, and will check your channel for informations.
Good choice and yes, there is a set of videos about the E-M1 MKII. So are of course about the older firmware.
Ahhh, 12:36 turning the EVF Auto Switch to OFF. I was looking for this because as you'd mentioned, it's really annoying. Thanks Peter for the suggested settings.
Thank you Sir . Yes the modern digital camera is so complicated compared to film cameras I learnt photography with . Not sure I could understand digital gear without that film experience .
I will be trying many of your very interesting ideas; however because Olympus does not allow us to save our preferred set up :( , I do try to keep as much as possible on default to make it easier to re-set if need be . And yes, I'm not good enough to use jpeg so I need to use raw . As they say (maybe you ??) ''less to think about'' , or in my case "less to forget to set"
I do like approach to teaching but will never understand why anyone would go out side if under is 10c :lol: . Yes; I'm in Australia where under 10c is considered cold and 40c is getting warm :lol:
For us in UK, 40C is unheard of, until 2022! Under 10C is typical winter but can be 12 or 13. Can be zero or less in the day occasionally. Like when my gas boiler was being replaced last year!🥶🥶🥶
Have yoi tried using Mysets or the Custom settings? Different on the different cameras. I can't quite get my head around them! With the EM5 Mk iii, I put the focus stacking on the C custom setting on the dial. There are some things you can set and assign to each mode like P, A, S and M using the menu.
I have watched a few of your videos and like how you explain things so being new to photography I chose Olympus I have the older em1 and are really enjoying the challenge with mixed results. I have upgraded to the 12-40 pro lense and it is certainly a huge leap forward. I still wish to shoot jpeg at this point in time and would be interested in recommended settings to help with exposure for jpegs as you say the settings at the beginning are for raw images. Thanks heaps
You made a good choice. E-M1 is a very capable camera and with the 12-40mm Pro lens you can beautiful results. I would trust the cameras metering mode in most cases and let the settings be default. The jpgs out of camera are great.
Pekka's original instructions set the highlight at 245 and that is where you would expose the lightest tonal value that still has detail. That is, when exposing, you would put the orange on the lightest part of the image where you still want detail. The shadows really doesn't matter, because if you are exposing to the right, they'll just fall where they fall. I think Pekka's instructions were pretty much perfect, but of course that's only my opinion.
You are right, 245 in highlights is a very good value if you do prints. That, 245, was also Pekka´s original recommendation. You are also right about me not begin precise. With setting the value 255 will give you the best possible amount of data from the sensor and nothing is clipped. The image will be light anyways so the midtones needs to be lowered a bit in post.
Thanks bro for your input!
It's interesting to see this discussion on the highlight value. I seldom shoot the muted profile ETTR method - it's not my style. So I am just discussing on logic
Idea A: the embedded JPEG used for review on the LCD is an 8 bit file and has been transformed using the gamma curve - the blinkies read off this file. The raw file is a 12 bit file that has not been processed through the gamma curve. What I am leading to is, even if you use 255 as the high value, that is 255 on the JPEG, the raw itself should still have a bit of room to avoid being bleached.
Idea B: Switching thought, if you use 245 as the high value and you purposely make the blinking happen, then you are using a different idea, that means you are using the blinking as an indicator of the max white detail you want, not as an indicator of bleaching.
Idea A is not the same as Idea B.
By the way, I used to read Pekka Potka - I understand that one might want to retire and pursue some other interest, but his articles were valuable should have been kept alive for us. Regards to Peter and Matti
p.s. I just found Pekka Potka's old article - web.archive.org/web/20120117062755/www.pekkapotka.com:80/journal/2011/12/20/expose-to-the-right-ettr-with-e-p3.html
@@AnandaSim Yes, you got the idea. When you shoot, almost every situation has highlights that will over expose and it doesn't matter as long as your main subject is how you want it. That's why I find it more precise to use the idea B, where I determine the whitest where I want detail, because that matters. But, that doesn't mean it works for everybody.
Ananda Sim The point of ETTR it to capture the most and cleanest data possible and adjust to taste. The other muted settings recommended are so the camera presents an exposure closer to what may be expected from the RAW file. Different approaches to shooting and settings might be employed if shooting JPG (as mentioned) or if you wanted to minimize post processing (didn’t want to adjust the exposure in post to take advantage of data captured when exposing to the right).
Hello Peter, your vlogs are always inspiring to me. I would love if you could do some future content on your extensive collection of photography books and how they inspire you. Have a good weekend and bye for now ;)
Thank you for your comment. I am very glad if someones get inspired. That is my goal. I have thought about making videos about my books, but have not gotten around to it yet.
Thanks for sharing, in a lot of points a confirmation but some I did not know :-)
Thank you!
I remember watching your shadow / highlights video in the past, I used those settings on my EM5 and boy did it help. Shame the shutter got stuck!
And thanks for sharing your settings. I love your economical and direct approach, no wasted words!
+badgerag That was a few years ago! What a pity that your E-M5 does not work anymore.
@@ForsgardPeter A pity for sure, I'm happy with the EM1 mkii, but miss the Em5. That camera got my passion for photography reignited, it's dear to me.
Purchased yesterday a mint E-M5 with HLD-6 and two batteries, for 119€. Shutter count 2700. So nothing really.
Only thing that tells it is used is that batteries has 2012 year and the rubber seals has marks they have been shut for years, still creates perfect seal.
No paint scratches, not even at the bottom plate or any corners.
I always wanted to get the original E-M5 that started OM-D.
I feel bad that I got a perfect unit for so cheaply :(
I started with E-M1 and totally fell to love with it. Lucky I didn't get E-M5 as first thought then 2013 as I so got to love Olympus controls, second to none.
Didn't upgrade to mk2 because articulating screen, why I hope mk3 of E-M1 return the tilt screen, or Fuji X-T2 screen.
When I walk around with my camera I usually have [I]"EVF Auto Switch"
Set to On, The LCD closed and [J2]"Quick Sleep Mode-Sleep" set to 10 seconds.
This way, as soon as I take my eye away from the EVF it instantly turns off, and the whole camera goes to sleep after 10 seconds, the battery lasts forever and I never have to think about remembering to turn the camera off, when I bring it to my eyes, I half-press the shutter and after around one second the camera is on and ready. I also have set [J2]"Auto Power Off" to the longest (4h).
When I use the LCD the [J2]"Backlit LCD" and [J2]"Sleep" is the timers that control sleep mode. If you don't want it to go to sleep after 10 seconds, you could, of course, use a different setting, but for me, half-pressing the shutter as I bring it to my eyes ensures it is ready when I first look into the EVF, so I see no reason to keep it longer.
If I use the camera on tripod I agree that it makes more sense to set [I]"EVF Auto Switch" to Off. I have a Preset that I think off as Tripod that I use in such situations, and I also use it when showing photos to the model or other people, since then it is really annoying if a hand gets to close to the EVF and you get that display shift all the time
Really Good points here, Thanks for sharing.
Peter, thanks for all your sharing. Video are cleared and so helpful, that's why I did subscribe as a member to follow you in order to improve... I just own an EM1 Mark2 with the version 3.0. I follow all your steps, 1 by 1 but at the ends I have nothing on my LCD screen, no Red for high exposure, no blue for low exposure. I just can see it when I took the picture pressing the info button but not before.... 172 persons found and I look like that I am the only one that could not...thanks for your answer and your time... regards
Thank you very much. Did you try to press the info button before you took the image? If you can see them after you have taken the image then the settings should ok for the flag colors. Now you need to check that you have turned on the info on the screen.
Alleluia.....I found it......thanks for everything
Hi Peter
Love your videos. I am struggling to understand the MYSET functions on Olympus - any chance of a video to explain how it works?
Join the club!🤣👍
I have set up my camera according to your suggestions. so far they seems ok exept for one thing, I can’t find out hov to change ISO-setting when it is removed from the default setting.
I have said before that you are a thought provoking educator; even for older dogs like me .
A few things I have changed over the past month . Moving the power on/off switch is likely the better -- Thank you.
Somewhere you said Olympus jpeg files are very good; and you are correct . I'm now using Raw + Jpeg with most edits files being Jpeg!! The big blue Australia sky is one problem for jpg . . I put the raw and jpeg files in different folders but files are renamed so they match . Before that; I didn't find your jpeg settings when using raw too helpful .
HDR can be very useful with the harder Australia light so I have set HDR to the Fn2 button . Fm1 is set for Wb / Iso which are generally set to Auto via my #1 custom mode. (ISO max 1000)
I have made other changes from your advice --- forgotten what though :lol:
Cheers -- stay safe
Thanks for sharing.
Peter, can you please show me how to change the back dial to do exposure compensation. You've explained they why, but not the how. Please and thank you.
Sure, go to Special Menu B > Dial Function > the mode you want to have the back wheel as exp. comp. Hope this helps.
Nice video. But for your next one: Please don't go this fast trough the settings. It's really hard to follow and i had to pause a lot to find the settings in my Oly... Maybe you can just make a split screen and keep the pics of you settings open, while you are talking?
That is a good point. This video had a lot of settings and I need to think how to make these tutorials better. The split screen could be an option. Thanks for the thought and idea.
Set up C1 as video explains to do YET have no idea how these settings will be different than the out of the box settings? Next video explain why you're doing the setting and how it will differ from the original settings please. Thank You
I know I should explain them a bit more.
Thank you peter, you're a life saver! Is there any way to lock the focus point that I have selected, without disabling the arrow buttons? I keep nudging the them and my camera ends up trying to focus on the sky!
Not that I know of. Unfortunately.
Can you do a video on setting up the original E-M1?
Yes I could, but it is very similar to the best settings in E-M5 MKII: th-cam.com/video/cIQpZBQFQhw/w-d-xo.html
@@ForsgardPeter Specifically the AEL/AFL button/lever are confusing. I want to set Position 1 to back button focus and Position 2 to normal. Also I'm not clear on how Edit Filename affects filenames. I don't want to get duplicates from a previous camera. Thanks.
You can change the default name to something else. I have numbered the cameras and that will separate the file name. Just add the number you want to the file name in the menu.
Hi, great tutorial, thank you :). Can you have special settings for the landscape image?
Thanks. It is hard to say what settings are correct. Each situation is very different from each other. In general stopping down a few stops will give more depth of field. Usually, the lenses also give better image quality when stopped down a stop or two.
@@ForsgardPeter Thank you
Dereck Frost
Hi Peter, thanks for all informative videos! Can you explain how to set upp slow motion in OM-D E.M1 MkII. I have not found it on TH-cam. You mention this very short but not exact how to do it. BR/Lasse
Turn on the slow mo from the option when choosing C24K mode. Press info button and choose slow.
Hello Peter, thank you so much for your tutorials!
I have an EM1.1.
I can remember I had this highlight & shadow, orange/blue setting before. Somehow I lost it, the camera was unused for some time and everything reset.
It was at Olympus for repair (defective shutter) 1 year ago and they did a good job, but settings where lost, and due to personal reasons I did not use it much in the past.
Now I cannot enable this highlight & shadow warning.
If I go to Custom1 or Custom2 then I see the highlight and shadow checkbox, but I cannot select it. It is not selectable (blue instead white letters) and the cursor jumps over it.
P.S. Dont mind. I found the reason.
By accident I had selected an art mode. (This was not my intention) Then this menuentry is disabled.
I selected "vivid" and anything is ok now.
Another problem...I menu G suggest Warm color. It isn't there, neither is Adobe RGB. Live boost view is alos a different menu now.
Both are still in menu G. Last too items in that menu, first keep Warm Color and the bottom one is Color Space.
Custom modes.....can you rename them? I.e. Changed 'custom mode 1' to say 'long exp setting', or whatever you have set a custom mode to do?
I mostly liked your suggestions, however using Adobe RGB is just asking for troubles, sRGB is the internet standard and ensures things will look the same (except for incorrect screen calibration obviously) on all devices. Most screens can't handle Adobe RGB anyway, and then you can't even benefit from it in your post process. You also add some chroma quantization noise when you compress the colors in camera and later expand them.
Perhaps I should rephrase it a bit to make it more nuanced, most of the time I shoot RAW, and then I use Adobe RGB, since it gives better input data, and once you export from your RAW tool, it gets converted into sRGB. But when you shoot RAW+JPG or JPG only for quick deliveries, I think it is better to use sRGB, to ensure the colors can be properly reproduced when uploading the JPG to various sites. Having to import the JPG into a tool and then export it with the sRGB color scheme kind of invalidates the meaningfulness of shooting JPGs in the first place, since then you might as well have shot it RAW.
Great tutorial, but still can’t get the evf to show red and blue exposure, like my em5 does
Press info button to toggle what is shown in the EVF and Viewfinder.
@@ForsgardPeter wow that was quick, all works now 👍👍🙏🙏
Glad it worked.
Thanks for a brilliant explanation on setup for the Mk2 - Could the same settings be used for the E-M1X.
Here is a similar video about the E-M1X: th-cam.com/video/9ZxNKxZAVww/w-d-xo.html
Peter, thanks so much for sharing! I am new to the EM 1.2, need all the help I can get. I have gone through your settings, but I do not see the red and blue that you mentioned. When would I be able to see those colors? Did I do something wrong? Trying my best to get myself off the auto mode. Appreciate any help.
I bought a new Mark III and sold off one of my Mark II. I find the Mark III very frustrating so I'm back to the Mark II but lost my settings. Watching your video I notice on my Mark II the picture mode setting is not active. This is the second setting you suggest after setting RAW in image format. You suggest setting picture mode to muted but the ability to set picture mode is not an option. Has there been a change perhaps in firmware/software that now prevents this? Did I mention I really dislike my Mark III.
Sorry to hear that you did not like the E-M1 MKIII. What was the problem with it?
The way to set up the camera is still the same. Did you checked that the mode dial is not on iAuto?
Hi Peter
I enjoy your channel very much.
I have the em1 mrk2 and have set the camera up to see highlight and shadow display.
I can't get that display option to work. I've double checked to make sure the function is turned on and even turned off the histogram. When I press the info button I still see the histogram but no highlight and shadow.
Thanks
Is there a setting advice for birds photography ?
I do not have a dedicated video about that but in this video there are some info about the settings for bird photography: th-cam.com/video/pyHOBfBBzVY/w-d-xo.html
With the current price drop, which camera is a better buy E-M1 Mark II or E-M5 Mark III?
If the E-M1 MKII is about the same price as E-M5 MKIII I would go with the E-M1MKII.
@@ForsgardPeter thank you so much. B&H is currently selling the E-M1 MKII at $849 and E-M5 MK III at $899. Just ordered my first 4/3 E-M1 MKII
I read and found on the topic of LCD vs EVF autoswitch that my E-M1 original (not the Mark 2) that Olympus has this clever idea. If you have the system on autoswitch but you just tilt the LCD a little, the autoswitch stops and the LCD remains as the output. This allows me to leave autoswitch On and yet not be irritated by it. I don't have the Mark 2 so cannot check on this implementation. Sadly my Sony A7 does not understand how to do that.
Thanks for this. On the M2, it doesn't have a tilt screen, but if you flip the screen out with it still facing toward the rear, it works as you said. Good thing to know, thanks again.
Good to know 👍🏾
Is the only difference between this and Pen-F is that your camera is bigger?
There are a few differences in features. Pen-F has the Creative Dial to adjust.
Have you updated a video on the new Firmware yet? It is at 3.1. I like you training videos!
I have made one about the firmware 3.0. The 3.1 has only two minor stability improvements and it did not affect the settings. Here: th-cam.com/video/VWFvoXHx_Q0/w-d-xo.html
Great video, my settings are very different, but of course depends on shooting style. I'm addicted to back button focusing. For me it's so unnatural your shooting button to be focus also. I just didn't get why you need muted profile with lowered settings to view the proper exposure?
That is because then the jpg that I see on the LCD or EVF is giving me better results when making the exposure. Without these settings the jpg that is dislpalyed on the screen does not give me the right info.
Peter, when you're looking through the viewfinder before taking a shot it's not jpg actually, so don't know is it working this. For review of already taken shot yes for sure it is like that.
I was thinking yesterday about the EVF/screen switch. Mine is auto and I can't make a timelapse with the screen to be off, maybe with this option this is going to work :)
G'day Peter. Thanks for your excellent videos. I set my EM1 mk2 as per your instructions and I have a problem. I can see both the BLUE and RED on the LCD but not when I look through the view finder. Can you please help? Have I missed a step in the setup?
Regards
Warren
You have checked that you have either Custon 1 or Custom 2 in Custom menu I > Info Settings activated and there is a check mark in Highlight/Shadow? Have you tried to press the Info-button while looking through the EVF? With the info-button you can toggle the different info sets that are shown in the EVF.
Thanks very much for your nice comment about my videos.
@@ForsgardPeter Peter, I had the same problem and had to adjust the info settings for LV-info on the D1 menu to the same settings you addressed in the I menu. It now works.
Great video... except I cannot get the red & blue colours to display on my E-M1 EVF nor screen, even after watching the video repeatedly and reading the tips offered in the comments. I even updated my firmware to v2.3. The good news is that I am learning the menu system more and more, with this trial & error process. What am I missing?
I have continued to fiddle with the INFO options and I finally did get it to work now. Great! I am (generally) not a raw shooter, but this will certainly push me towards the use of raw :-)
Hi Peter, interesting tutorial, thank you. Can you give what are your basic camera OM-D E-M1 MkII settings for landscape photography?
Its very hard to give a specific settings for landscape. I would use Aperture priority to control teh depth of field. If you use a tripod, turn the IBIS off. The camera can detect that the it is on a tripod and turns the IBIS off, but its wise to turn it off.
@@ForsgardPeter Thank you, I do, I understand. And will it be good to set the whole camera as you showed in the tutorial?
@@ForsgardPeter thank you
Hi Peter, your channel is amazing and very helpful. I have a couple of questions: Do the camera noise reduction function dramatically affect the RAW files, so it is better to switch them off or can I take both the in camera noise reductions and then post processing, like DXO Elite in combination? The second question is, whether this settings video still applies well to the newest firmware on M1 Mark III or you would change a couple of things with the changes in mind? Many thanks, all the best
I seldom use noise reduction in camera. DxO Photolab 4 works very well. There are always some settings, but I do not recall that I changed anything.
Was there separate video for raw settings
This one is most about raw.
@@ForsgardPeter Thanks! I noticed that my color on my JPG and Raw images were about the same so I was doing some exploring. Keep up the GREAT work you do.
I do have camera set on iAuto and in the shooting menu 1, the Picture Mode (you suggest to set to muted) is not highlighted, nothing can be done. It appears to be a dead option.
It is not available if you have the iAuto selected. Choose something else like A, S or P.
Peter, is MUTED mode giving more dynamic range than NATURAL for instance. I usually use Natural but I use jpeg only sometimes though I have moved to LSF plus RAW.
I have not tested Natural and Muted side by side. In theory muted should be a bit better, but will there be any visible differences that we can see is an other question.
I am a still a little in doubt, exactly which of these settings are going to affect the jpg files, as recorded on the memory cards. I use the camera in the mode where I both store a jpeg and a raw file.
I'm not quite sure which I'm viewing if I choose RAW plus jpeg mode. I think it's showing the jpeg. If you shoot raw plus jpeg you can edit the raw file in camera (or the jpeg). There are more settings in the edit raw image data mode and you can record two of them as custom settings and use them again later. You can develop your raw image multiple times into different jpegs. For instance you can art bracket and get one image for every art filter. Some of them will look awful!🤣 Or you can tweak the raw exposure, white balance, highlights and shadows, keystone compensation and save it as a jpeg ... and then do it all over again with different settings and save it as another jpeg without overwriting the first one. That can be quite useful for improving an image if you haven't got computer software. Then wifi it to your phone and upload it to the internet, etc.
If you shot raw + jpg; just view the image and press ok and it will let you choose beyween raw data edit and jpeg edit.
I'm not sure if the camera messes with the original jpeg if you edit the raw data. I think it keeps it because when it creates a new jpeg from the edited raw image, it puts it in place as the latest photo you took. I think!
Hi, I know you posted this 4 years ago and I might not get a reply but I shall put this message here anyway - whenever I apply these settings on my camera I cannot see the RED/BLUE areas as yours does to signify if the image is under exposed or over exposed, would you know why this is the case? Thank you!
Press the info button. That will change the info on the screens.
@@ForsgardPeter Your video just saved me lots and lots of troubles, thanks ! x
First, thanks for your good work Peter! I am not following you about initially making the settings you suggest, then saving them to a Custom Mode (C1, C2 or C3) for later use. First, does it make a difference what mode you have the camera in when you make the settings you suggest (i.e., does the camera need to be in any particular mode (A, S, M or C1, C2 or C3), or does it not matter? As a corollary, do you have to enter the settings with the camera set to each shooting mode (A, S and M) where you want them to be applied, or is that not a necessary step? Second, once you have made the settings and set them to a Custom Mode (C1, C2 or C3), is that the mode you use when shooting (i.e., C1, C2 or C3), or do you select the mode dial to the mode you want to have the camera use (A, S or M)? Perhaps I missed something in your tutorial, and I hope this makes sense, but I am just not understanding the need to save the settings to a Custom Mode and how you then access them when you are actually shooting? Thanks!
The mode you use does not make any difference. It works on all the Modes, P, A, S and M. These settings works like I showed, but to assign them to a Custom Mode they are saved. Thats just because if I change something I will have them strored. I mostly use C1, and that is where I have strored these settings, from the top dial in my EM-1 MKII.
The reason I used the Custom Menu B is to set the Button Functions so that the Exposure Compensation is assigned to the Back Dial on my camera.
Hope these answers to your question?
@@ForsgardPeter Thanks Peter. You answered my questions. I do note that the JPEG image on the camera's LCD screen when lookiong at photos taken with the settings you recommmend looks rather dull and unstaurated compared to what I am used to seeing. I assume this is normal and what you are really concerned with is the RAW file that from the card and that the image being made using your setting is for determining proper exposure, especially using the red/blue over and under exposure warning colors one turns on in the info settings menu. Am I perceivning this correctly?
@@jeffreybrenman1581 Is this because the screen is showing the jpeg image and that will be in Muted colour scheme on Peter's video? I think maybe so but I'm not sure. On my camera I have almost always shot with "Natural" and that's because I used to shoot jpeg only. Now I use raw plus jpeg, unless I'm just messing around to try different camera settings.
getting to be a bother, next problem the dial button menu isn't the same any longer
It is still in Custom menu B.
I followed every step in the video and my camera still won't do highlight metering and I can't get rid of the histogram. What am I doing wrong lol?
Press the info button. It swill toggle the different inof what is shown on the screen.
Thanks Peter, I always get help from your videos and this is the best yet. One thing that confused me was the reason for the changes in contrast and saturation settings, as well as going to muted. Is this just your preference, as the blue/orange part seems to work whatever these settings are. Is it just that it works better? I'd as to that the red/orange works also with default histogram settings, but does this make it kick in at a different point, or is that just the look you are looking for?
*I'd like to add that
The reason to use those settings you mentioned is that it gives a more accurate info about the exposure. It affects only the jpg that shows on the screens of the camera.
This has me stumped
Is it possible to set the monitor to match the EVF (Style 2) ?
Example: to show orange when highlights are blown out .
Cheers
If you mean an external monitor? Yes, the monitor sows the same view as your camera. You just have to set the HDMI output to Monitor.
Thank you@@ForsgardPeter ; but sorry, I haven't explained it properly .
Taking photos --- I have set EVF to Style 2 .
However the swivel screen (love that) shows more like Style 3 . Have just noticed the orange highlight does not show in the EVF when using Style 3 (??)
Basically trying to get Style 2 in EVF and swivel screen .
Bit like the camera menu; complicated; and why I have never worry too much about camera settings beyond the simplest with raw capture. Basically the same as my M1 camera .
Cheers.
Thanks Peter for sharing your knowlege. I followed your instructions, but It doesn't work for me. Could it be because I have the new 3.1 firmware installed?
That could be one reason, but have you tried to press the Info-button several times so that the flag colors appear?
Hello Peter, thank you for this video. I fallowed the instructions but now there is a white frame that borders the center of my shots in playback. How do I get rid of a white border within my pictures plz ?
Do have the digital teleconverter on?
Peter, most of my photos taken at the beach that include the sea are very blue; I shoot in EAW, how can I reduce this as it looks so artificial!?
Hi Peter, this time used EM1 Mark2 price same as the EM5 Mark3 and EM10 Mark IV. what choose is right way and which one better for Photograph, and which one is better for video. thank you Peter.
It is between E-M1 MK2 and E-M5 MK3. I have a video about these two head to head: th-cam.com/video/zjPTGJ_lAkE/w-d-xo.html
I can't set the camera on exposure, using the pink and blue colors for over and underexposure. I followed the steps presented, but I don't get any changes to the settings (I set Info settings, Custom 1 and Highlight&Shadow). Where am I wrong?
Thank you in advance.
Have you oressed the info button. It shows you the different displays on EVF and LCD.
Exposure settings in E1 are now different.
What camera you mean E-1 or E-M1?
GREAT as usual! Thanks a lot. QUESTION: how can i know what is the longest time Handheld on each lens for a photo? I got IBIS & some lenses have lens stabilization. -> trial & error?
I would say trial and error.
Thanks for the nice comment on my videos.
hi everybody. Just got an unsed om-d e-m1 mkII with pro 12-45 lens. I tried shooting stars and found an odd issue not to have infinity sign on lens to set manual focus. can you help on this? thank you in andvance
Hello Peter, I followed your instructions but unfortunately MKii does not show the red/blue. Any suggestions what to do?
Hi Peter; found solution, needs to be set in LV-info as well the
Highlight & Shadow
@@joachimmaurer7030 This is my problem too but wasn't solved by going into LV-info - any ideas?
I can not find the previous set-up video on the 1 Mk2. I wanted to get rid of the wretched prompts for each of the menu items. I am sure that was in the missing video. Can you help please, thanks
Press the Info-button while the info is on.
@@ForsgardPeter Many thanks Peter, that did the trick. Appreciate all the videos. Have a good Spring
can you tell me which video will show me how to connect my om-d-e10m mark II to my smart phone I am doing something wrong, it appears to connect but when I try to close the QR code the camera disconnects from the phone and if I tr y and connect to the camera via the phone the QR code pops up again.
You are not suppose to close the QR-code on you camera. If you want to use the LiveView on camera use the app as remote control. This video has everything about the OI:Share app. Hope this helps. th-cam.com/video/X91d5SmBx6k/w-d-xo.html
Hi there - have been experimenting with your settings which are really interesting.
As you say when it goes into Lightroom it does looked washed out which I can correct with the exposure but at the same time the colour balance is all out with far too much blue. I am operating on Auto. Should I be using something else ??
You mean AutoWB? If you shoot raw then just correct the white balance the way you like it.
You talk about "Picture Mode"
On my Olympus Omd EM1 "Picture Mode"is inactive. Can not be used.
Have any ideea why ?
Thank you
Do you have your camera on iAuto? Also you might have some special feature on.
Hi Peter, why do you prefer to turn off Warm Color?
With Warm Color off it gives you a better reference image on the EVF/LCD.
Thanks for the video, however the flag colors don‘t appear on my screen or view finder. Any suggestions? Thank you!
Have you presssed the info button to toggle the different info that shows on the screen.
@@ForsgardPeter yes, I did. I can only see the over- and underexposure in the the histogramm.
Check all the settings once more. There might be one setting missing.
@@ForsgardPeter I fixed it! I had to go to D1 settings and had to change the info settings. I think you missed this step in your video. Anyway, thank you very much for your support!
It is possible that there is a mistake. Glad you could fix it!