Don't listen to one negative word. I've built many homes. I have every tool known to man. I know construction. You did a great job both in building the rail and in the construction of your video. Be proud my brother! RS
I used the same basic method to make an S curved privacy fence in my side yard. The only real difference is I cut thinner pieces 1/4 in. and used clamps because I had them. Very nice job Steve. Thanks for posting.
I agree with the previous reviewer. Not only are you a craftsman, but you're an excellent videographer. No fluff, no amateur distracting music, and no wasted time on my part. Well thought out and produced!
@@peteryeung111 whoosh! Haha and They are the same price as regular 2x4. They are curved because they didnt take them out of the pile of good straight ones.
Curves , so labor intensive . Had a architect that I used to a lot of work for that loved them , 6 or 7 different radius's per job . It was both challenging and rewarding but mostly time consuming . Instead of string I used to use a thin strip of wood with a nail punched through both ends , only for the fact you get zero deflection in your arc . Great video .
Very nice curved railing! There is nothing you did that was wrong because you tried it and made it work! That's what DIY is all about and your video proves it can be done! Thanks for sharing.
I have been watching video after video, on working with rounded projects, and this is by far one of the best for multiple reasons. First the technique is impressive. Second your improvisation and explanations are a tremendous help to "do it yourself" people. Thank you for the quality of your video.
That's just what I need!!! What a great idea and I feel like a dummy for not thinking of it. Then again I do cabinetry so this type of thing never comes up. Thanks for the video! Now I can do the curved path railing I've been wanting..:)
All PVA glues ‘creep’. That is the glue will stretch with continuous strain. When you don’t steam bend prior to gluing you will experience much greater spring back because each laminated layer will not have been softened to take the new curve. Even with this added step there will be a tendency for each lamination to return some of its old ‘shape’. PVA glues also harden as they cure so leaving a bent lamination in the fixture for several days to a week will also reduce spring back considerably. A change to a resorcinol glue will eliminate all creep and is waterproof. No PVA glue is actually waterproof under continuous submersion, not even Titebond III! Resorcinol glue is a better choice (structurally) for outdoor bent laminations and doesn’t require the extra time in the fixture.
The easiest way I've found for finding the radius of an arc. Draw a line that intersects the arc at 2 points, then mark the center point of that line (between the two intersections). Then square a line from that center point, this line points to your radius point. Now you run a tape measure along that line. Then you take another tape measure from any other point on the arc crossing the first tape. Where the measurements match up is your radius. Hope that makes sense and helps somebody, great vid.
TY for this great video, I am building sometching now that needs curved beams for the ceiling and wasn’t sure how I should make these. This was by far the best lesson I found on YT. Great work!
It's sad how little respect there is everyday while out and about and seeing architecture. We just pass it by as if it just appeared there! I'm impressed by what you created...
Roger Diotte Thanks to HGTV, TH-cam etc... we all get to gain that appreciation that makes walks around town or a visit inside someone's home that much more interesting and enjoyable
Stephen Porter yea lol those shows and the internet, you just need to get the right clicks to discover doing something to get your mind busy.. Really love the curve on that deck.. I'm always looking for the angles and curves in everything...
I realise this is quite an old video but it’s still totally relevant. It’s always best to use resin glue for curved work, something like cascamite (Not sure if that’s sold in USA I’m in UK) but resin glue must be available. Reason for this is resin glue doesn’t allow any movement so the curve should have less spring back, plus it’s totally waterproof. If the wood is to be stained one can add some colour to the resin to make it similar to the desired finish so it doesn’t show the glue lines.
Your video is one of the best ones I've seen, especially the background sound effects. Spreading the glue out might help. What I really like is there is hope for a fancy railing for my new cabin without having to use the steam bent process. Thank you for sharing.
Altho I've done this before, its been many years. This video gave me some pointers that'll help with my up coming project. Thx for the tutorial. Excellent job.
I've seen some hand railings that were curved and wondered how they go thick pieces of wood to bend. Likely the way you did. Never really thought about how it could be done. Oops, now I'm thinking of a new project. lol. Probably never get around to some my ideas, but if I can do a few, I'd be happy with that. Nice work and video. The elevator music didn't bother me. I rather liked it.
Stephen, Thank you!...Now that I'm forced to be home for the long hall- from the looks of it! I finally have the time to make my indoor wood stand for my chair hammock 😁!!!.. THANKS TO YOU!..Your talented, handsome "incase your wife didn't say that" LOL...and have some amaz skills! WHO WOULD HAVE THOUGHT "Wow, not only is he a talented carpenter, but dude, he can also create some great video! Dam! I'm impressed!!... All seriousness, I truly appreciate you sharing your talents & techniques!
This is pretty much what I did to make a large diameter curtain rail for my mother's bedroom. I didn't feel like making a steam box for one project, so I bent several thin strips and glued them together. . . Came out really nice! She was happy. You don't need to screw the pieces together. As long as it's clamped tight, it will hold its shape once its dry.
I had to do the pieces one at a time due to the lack of strength in my jig and I wasn't patient enough to let the pieces dry individually so I used the screws and nails. With a stronger jig or more patience, definitely
When building railings like this you can use strips that are vertically thinner in the centre of the rail. You keep the top flush when you fab it up. This will form a channel on the bottom side to take the balusters on the bottom negating any need to cut mortises. You cut small spacers on a band saw or use a jig saw and fit them between the balusters for looks and strength. In addition, the thinner strips will have less spring back keeping you railing truer to the proper radius.
Watched some old-time carpenters in Toronto make curved crown moulding. That's the toughest because of the the angle. They took two pieces of the 16' stock crown and took a table saw thick blade-width off of the first one. Then they ripped them down to blade-width. Alternating back and forth, one crown filled in the gaps from ripping the other down. It came out the jig very smooth and accurate. Joined up the profile perfectly with the straight pieces. It was impressive.
This is great. I've used this method before with 3/4"x 6" cedar to create a curved beam for a bridge. Worked great! One thing I would suggest to folks is to always mark on the side of your strips where you placed the screws so you don't screw into a screwhead with subsequent strips. Great job!
I was thinking the same. Assuming some sort of vertical baluster holes will eventually need to be drilled, it would be a good to make sure the screws were not too close to the "top" side to prevent obstructing the drilled holes
Thanks Stephen, very excellent video. Here's a little tip. 15:02 If you make the radius of your jig an inch or two undersized "Shorter", your rail will then spring back closer to the exact radius you're shooting for.
I completly forgot about this method. Im building a bmx rv and going off grid/homeless. And this technique will be perfect for all the curves required to create reinforcement. Thank you kindly liked and subd.
You can avoid some of those gaps with screw type clamps. The quick grip versions do not apply enough pressure to get a great glue-up. Using the alternative clamps will increase the strength and reduce entropy via moisture. Also, spread that glue out.
Dear Sir, I must salute you for three simple reasons: your craftsmanship, the educational content of your video and taking the time and effort to share. Many thanx and all the best in your career!
This is a perfect video.. You are really good at explaining the process without giving excessive info. I enjoyed it and you are obviously very good at what you do. Loved it.
You left out Boring!!! Great video well detailed!! your on your way to becoming a great U tuber!!! If I may add: a small scale mock (Example) up may have shown more detail for first timers on the veneering principal. I did a bit of custom furniture plywood veneering and the details are very visible. Cheers Subscribed!
I saw this video a few years ago , and liked it so I had to revisit your work video which i liked very much . , i love to see how people make things happen , and you made it happen ,thanks for letting a person like myself pick up a few pointers . I like what and how you did what you did. Thanks"
there is a way to compensate for your spring back. There is a comprehensive article in Coffmans stair building guide (I think volume 2). Baiscally, your center L bracket on your jig is screwed right on your line as you did. Then, for every L bracket thereafter (in both directions) is set 1/16th of a inch away from your line, but... (this is hard for me to explain but bear with me)... so, the first one after your center L bracket is a sixteenth away from the line, the next would be a eight inch away from the line, then the 3rd L bracket would be 3/16th inch away from the line....and so on until your all out of L brackets. You do this on both the left and right side of your jig, and once that baby spring backs its gonna be pretty much spot on. So, you know its gonna spring back, so make it a wee bit tighter of a radius and when it does, youll be golden ponyboy. other than that, you did an amazing job and great video. And im not saying all this to be big headed and act all smart but as a wise man told me one time, iron sharpens iron. keep on keeping on buddy. Hope u can make sense of my rambling, im not exactly a english major, just a carpenter.
I just learned sin cosine tan on youtube now I wrote down that formula. I came up with 84.748 so yes 84.75 is it. Who ever figured out that formula is amazing. I love woodworking and math.
Thank you for a helpful video. I haven't read all the comments, apologize if this is repeated- good quality construction adhesive between each strip couldn't hurt.
Wonderful video! Made a railing for our curved deck thanks to YOU! The only problem I had, I made for myself by gluing the first strip to the screwed jig band. That meant I had to saw off the finished rail. Ha! Thanks for the math equation! Great instructional video!!
Very good info and easy to follow instructions. No overload of useless, "see how intelligent I am" info. This could easily be called, woodworking for dummies. Simplicity, what a beautiful thing. Thanks for the video.
11:50 Take the time to find 16 or even 15 gauge nails, they are thicker and are much easier to remove if necessary. the 18 gauge are like skinny pins and when you grab them to pull them out they just snap.YES PEOPLE... LOWER NUMBER MEANS THICKER NAILS. I only use 18 gauge for very delicate projects. Another tip is to shoot the nails at an angle inward from the end of the board so they hold better. 14:51 I would use a hand planer (Powered of course) or a belt sander Dunno how well the curve would go through a regular planer. I really enjoy watching videos like this where you're not just guessing while making a video of your project. Thumbs up #1463
Great video! You may already have this, but this formula calculates the amount of spring back. The trick will be figuring out how to adjust the form to compensate. Trial and error I guess. Y=X/N² Y = Spring Back X = Inside Arc Height (your measurement of 15-1/4") N = # of Layers (5 - not counting profile pieces) So your spring back should be around 5/8" from center.
Beautiful job....I wish I had a porch that needed a railing like yours. Thanks so much for sharing - you are an excellent instructor. I only wish you had included a completed picture!
Actually, I enjoyed the James Bond elevator music. Thanks for the radius formula. I knew I'd have to look it up sometime. Great presentation and darned good editing.
I like the methods and ideas you showed here. Very useful. I think I would make my arc a little exaggerated to compensate for spring back and I would roll the glue on both sides of each joint to ensure 100% glue coverage. Nice job.
well done.. glad to find you and this method, great way for a beginning carpenter like me with a full shop to really take advantage of everything and create some interesting things... not a content provider and don't think I will be but love love love learning concepts so I can apply them to my business!
Bevel cut the pieces at the Inside joints will also take away some of the spring back you are getting, use a 60 to 70 degree cut and 3/4 brads at an angle to pull them tight. One or both might just solve any spring back at all. Nice how to DIY rail video I bet it helps a lot of peeps.
I'm going to have to remember this. I don't know if i'll ever get the chance to use it but I'd really like to. And the tip about the nail shooting into your hand is so true. My last job my coworker did just that. Nailing near a thin spot in a corner, the nail shot right through and into his palm. it was smaller gauge so didn't do much damage, just hurt like hell he said.
Suck it up butter cup, back to work! Lol. By the way, I've nailed my hand to my work with a 2 1/2" nail. Now that hurts!!! Pull it, wrap it, back to work.lol
Nice one, Stephen. I particularly liked the text at the end that forestalled any comments on your methodology I might have made...This process (with the right clamps, wood thickness, etc.), is a perfect way to add interest to a thin strip laminated table top. Thanks for sharing, I'm heading off to Sketchup for the layout and maths, and after that, to my woodpile to see if I have enough quarter sawn for the job. Greetings from South Africa.
just came across this video.Really good.As a retired joiner I've used this method quite a few time's and pretty much did exactly as you but with some modifications. To alleviate spring back,once the radius was established, I made the end L brkts inside the radius line by 1.5 inches so when it did spring back it finished almost exactly on the true radius line.Instead of butt joining the strips I cut the ends at 45° so I only had to fix one strip at the end and the next one wedged itself into the angle.This also Save's clamping it.Also used to run all the strips through the thicknesser to make the mating surfaces smooth. This way there's less filling when finished and exact dimensions can be kept to if specified. Just some thoughts.
William - Yanks call a 'planer thicknesser' a 'jointer planer'. The rest of the world calls it a planer thicknesser. When we are are referring to a combo machine, of course. So 'jointing' is monkey babble speech for 'planing'. And 'planing' is the monkey babble equivalent of 'thicknessing'. Got it? 'Jointing' is edge only. Planing is face and edge. So thicknesser is the correct term, because a face planed board is then fed into the thicknesser to achieve the thickness required.
Really enjoyed this video. I'm an small time independent carpenter / everything. I would suggest you could try cutting and angle at the ends of the joined strips and start at those joints to mate them tightly as you would for joining trim mold that exceeds the normal lengths of stock. I constantly find myself having to figure out methods to do seemingly impossible repairs on older homes. It always work's out but often the time I invest in the process means I'm almost working for free. Or I'm laying in bed at 3 a.m. trying to work out a solution for a problem I must solve the next day. I need a good camera so I can start doing some videos of my own projects. Thank you and I will be watching maybe I will be able to sleep when I know I've seen a method, perhaps one of yours will work for me.
OSB was originally called "Particle Board" so don't worry about what you call it. How do I know this you ask? - my Dad was a Mechanical Engineer for Weyerhaeuser who designed the first automatic stacker for this new product in a mill in Coos Bay, Oregon in the 1950's. He went on to revolutionize lumber stacking in the industry. Oh yes, he was a Swedish/Norwegian American and his name was Sid. Great video. You are a natural teacher. Keep working with wood to beautify your home.
Particle board is made with splinters of wood. OSB is made with long, flat chips and usually with water resistant glue. They are most definitely different products.
From nail to nail is the span.From center of span to the top of the arch is the rise. Half the span squared plus the rise squared divided by two times the rise gives you the radius
Steve! Thank you so much for the video! Really appreciate the math layout too, you made it super easy! I have a couple of 2x4 fence rails done in the 50’s that are on their last days. And I’ve been racking my brain on how to do it. 👍🏻👍🏻
This may work for the handrail I need to make this summer. My railing will not be on a flat plane though. Fingers crossed. I love the Red Green quote at the end.
It's not a spiral per se, it is a curved 4'×8' four step 180⁰ turn in my staircase. I just think a sweeping curve would look so much better than plain square corners.
I remember seeing this video a long time ago. I was blown away w/radius formula. Since then I have learned the "Intersecting Chords Theorem". Somehow this video got recommended to me again, so I wanted to know if I could use that chord theorem. Sure nuff, it works. The only problem I have is, trying to understand how this video has 1.5 million views, but only 9.4 thousand likes.
It's either your own home or you charge a fortune for that kind of work lol....people don't realise how much work will you put in there, was a nice finished piece,I like your video, I'm a carpenter my self,is there a part 2, to see the end product,watching from Ireland.
great job. i was in the boat building and repair business and did a lot of wood bending and going a little bit more on the bend on the jig would compensate for the spring back. also screw clamp make a tighter glue up.
Easy to follow how you figured out this challenge. I will skip placing the strips up on the LBrackets. Just place them at bott om against the plywood to make sure railing flat on bottom. But nice job!
Susan Reynolds Thanks and the reason I spaced it up from the bottom was so the railing wouldn't get glued to the base when it oozed out of the seams. Might be another way around that though
On the spring back you can somewhat overcome by over compensating on your arch radius - make it that 1/2" tighter and when you unclamp it will spring back that 1/2" and be very close to right on.
Just saw your vid, and I must say nice! very creative and, as you stated, when steaming isn't an option. It actually looked like one piece. Thanks for the lesson.
Just stumbled across this video, and I gotta say, I never would've thought of this method, but it's genius. Also, very nice use of a Red Green quote. :)
this video is borderline genius, thank you for sharing! And good tip on the nails, the longer ones are very unpredictable. I have actually shot a 2 inch nail through my thumb. Not fun.
Don't listen to one negative word. I've built many homes. I have every tool known to man. I know construction. You did a great job both in building the rail and in the construction of your video. Be proud my brother! RS
I used the same basic method to make an S curved privacy fence in my side yard. The only real difference is I cut thinner pieces 1/4 in. and used clamps because I had them. Very nice job Steve. Thanks for posting.
I agree with the previous reviewer. Not only are you a craftsman, but you're an excellent videographer. No fluff, no amateur distracting music, and no wasted time on my part. Well thought out and produced!
Dave Judd Thanks and glad you enjoyed it. It was a fun and rewarding project. ☺️
The 2x4's I get from Home Depot curve on their own.
Do they cost extra?
Lol. Home depot sucks at putting out good boards
@@peteryeung111 whoosh! Haha and They are the same price as regular 2x4. They are curved because they didnt take them out of the pile of good straight ones.
@@TarmanTheChampion @Tarman The Champion
Whoosh!
I had a female apprentice call that the Irish curve LOL!
Curves , so labor intensive . Had a architect that I used to a lot of work for that loved them , 6 or 7 different radius's per job . It was both challenging and rewarding but mostly time consuming . Instead of string I used to use a thin strip of wood with a nail punched through both ends , only for the fact you get zero deflection in your arc . Great video .
376 people that didn't have enough clamps or didn't like your elevator music, but we loved everything about this video, thanks!
DreamB Foundation you can never have enough clamps!
Very nice curved railing! There is nothing you did that was wrong because you tried it and made it work! That's what DIY is all about and your video proves it can be done! Thanks for sharing.
I have been watching video after video, on working with rounded projects, and this is by far one of the best for multiple reasons. First the technique is impressive. Second your improvisation and explanations are a tremendous help to "do it yourself" people. Thank you for the quality of your video.
Thank you for the kind words and I am glad you found it helpful. 🙂
That's just what I need!!! What a great idea and I feel like a dummy for not thinking of it. Then again I do cabinetry so this type of thing never comes up. Thanks for the video! Now I can do the curved path railing I've been wanting..:)
All PVA glues ‘creep’. That is the glue will stretch with continuous strain. When you don’t steam bend prior to gluing you will experience much greater spring back because each laminated layer will not have been softened to take the new curve. Even with this added step there will be a tendency for each lamination to return some of its old ‘shape’. PVA glues also harden as they cure so leaving a bent lamination in the fixture for several days to a week will also reduce spring back considerably. A change to a resorcinol glue will eliminate all creep and is waterproof. No PVA glue is actually waterproof under continuous submersion, not even Titebond III! Resorcinol glue is a better choice (structurally) for outdoor bent laminations and doesn’t require the extra time in the fixture.
The easiest way I've found for finding the radius of an arc. Draw a line that intersects the arc at 2 points, then mark the center point of that line (between the two intersections). Then square a line from that center point, this line points to your radius point. Now you run a tape measure along that line. Then you take another tape measure from any other point on the arc crossing the first tape. Where the measurements match up is your radius. Hope that makes sense and helps somebody, great vid.
Well, the easiest way is to do the Math, but your method which I have used is definitely second easiest.
TY for this great video, I am building sometching now that needs curved beams for the ceiling and wasn’t sure how I should make these. This was by far the best lesson I found on YT. Great work!
Glad to help. Good luck on your project. Sounds interesting!
It's sad how little respect there is everyday while out and about and seeing architecture. We just pass it by as if it just appeared there! I'm impressed by what you created...
Roger Diotte Thanks to HGTV, TH-cam etc... we all get to gain that appreciation that makes walks around town or a visit inside someone's home that much more interesting and enjoyable
Stephen Porter yea lol those shows and the internet, you just need to get the right clicks to discover doing something to get your mind busy.. Really love the curve on that deck.. I'm always looking for the angles and curves in everything...
@@sporterhome I agree, until I started building things and doing research I had no idea how much effort and detail goes into good carpentry work.
I realise this is quite an old video but it’s still totally relevant.
It’s always best to use resin glue for curved work, something like cascamite (Not sure if that’s sold in USA I’m in UK) but resin glue must be available.
Reason for this is resin glue doesn’t allow any movement so the curve should have less spring back, plus it’s totally waterproof. If the wood is to be stained one can add some colour to the resin to make it similar to the desired finish so it doesn’t show the glue lines.
Your video is one of the best ones I've seen, especially the background sound effects. Spreading the glue out might help. What I really like is there is hope for a fancy railing for my new cabin without having to use the steam bent process. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks and good luck with your railing!
Great video. I found it very informative but not excessively talkative. You create a good product and I am sure your customers appreciate your work.
Altho I've done this before, its been many years. This video gave me some pointers that'll help with my up coming project. Thx for the tutorial. Excellent job.
I've seen some hand railings that were curved and wondered how they go thick pieces of wood to bend. Likely the way you did. Never really thought about how it could be done. Oops, now I'm thinking of a new project. lol. Probably never get around to some my ideas, but if I can do a few, I'd be happy with that. Nice work and video. The elevator music didn't bother me. I rather liked it.
Stephen, Thank you!...Now that I'm forced to be home for the long hall- from the looks of it! I finally have the time to make my indoor wood stand for my chair hammock 😁!!!..
THANKS TO YOU!..Your talented, handsome "incase your wife didn't say that" LOL...and have some amaz skills! WHO WOULD HAVE THOUGHT "Wow, not only is he a talented carpenter, but dude, he can also create some great video! Dam! I'm impressed!!...
All seriousness, I truly appreciate you sharing your talents & techniques!
Glad you found it helpful ☺️
Good luck with the stand for your chair hammock!
This is pretty much what I did to make a large diameter curtain rail for my mother's bedroom. I didn't feel like making a steam box for one project, so I bent several thin strips and glued them together. . . Came out really nice! She was happy.
You don't need to screw the pieces together. As long as it's clamped tight, it will hold its shape once its dry.
I had to do the pieces one at a time due to the lack of strength in my jig and I wasn't patient enough to let the pieces dry individually so I used the screws and nails. With a stronger jig or more patience, definitely
When building railings like this you can use strips that are vertically thinner in the centre of the rail. You keep the top flush when you fab it up. This will form a channel on the bottom side to take the balusters on the bottom negating any need to cut mortises. You cut small spacers on a band saw or use a jig saw and fit them between the balusters for looks and strength. In addition, the thinner strips will have less spring back keeping you railing truer to the proper radius.
Watched some old-time carpenters in Toronto make curved crown moulding. That's the toughest because of the the angle. They took two pieces of the 16' stock crown and took a table saw thick blade-width off of the first one. Then they ripped them down to blade-width. Alternating back and forth, one crown filled in the gaps from ripping the other down. It came out the jig very smooth and accurate. Joined up the profile perfectly with the straight pieces. It was impressive.
Great video and I love the method you used...no water...no steam or other magic. Nice work.
Thanks for the feedback. My railing still looks good and has held it's shape for 1 year now
Good luck with your project!
Impressive and easy to follow for a home handy guy. I liked that the 'lessons learned' was at the end to help the next guy. Thank you.
Elevator music is much better than space alien music any day. Thinner strips is the way to go. Cutting the ends is the real challenge. Nice work.
This is great. I've used this method before with 3/4"x 6" cedar to create a curved beam for a bridge. Worked great! One thing I would suggest to folks is to always mark on the side of your strips where you placed the screws so you don't screw into a screwhead with subsequent strips. Great job!
Earl Knight Great suggestion! Thanks
I was thinking the same. Assuming some sort of vertical baluster holes will eventually need to be drilled, it would be a good to make sure the screws were not too close to the "top" side to prevent obstructing the drilled holes
Thanks Stephen, very excellent video. Here's a little tip. 15:02 If you make the radius of your jig an inch or two undersized "Shorter", your rail will then spring back closer to the exact radius you're shooting for.
I completly forgot about this method. Im building a bmx rv and going off grid/homeless. And this technique will be perfect for all the curves required to create reinforcement. Thank you kindly liked and subd.
You can avoid some of those gaps with screw type clamps. The quick grip versions do not apply enough pressure to get a great glue-up. Using the alternative clamps will increase the strength and reduce entropy via moisture. Also, spread that glue out.
Great video thank you I’ve been struggling with how to make my hand rail for my spiral staircase
Hi Steve, thanks for the video. I’m making a Japanese bridge for the garden in my rental and now know how to make the curved rails! Thanks!
Dear Sir, I must salute you for three simple reasons: your craftsmanship, the educational content of your video and taking the time and effort to share. Many thanx and all the best in your career!
This is a perfect video.. You are really good at explaining the process without giving excessive info. I enjoyed it and you are obviously very good at what you do. Loved it.
Thanks. I tried to make it user friendly and not too boring, lol
You left out Boring!!! Great video well detailed!! your on your way to becoming a great U tuber!!!
If I may add: a small scale mock (Example) up may have shown more detail for first timers on the veneering principal. I did a bit of custom furniture plywood veneering and the details are very visible.
Cheers
Subscribed!
Stephen Porter .
George Maltsinio
I saw this video a few years ago , and liked it so I had to revisit your work video which i liked very much . , i love to see how people make things happen , and you made it happen ,thanks for letting a person like myself pick up a few pointers . I like what and how you did what you did. Thanks"
Thank you, kind sir!
This is a great video. Very clear and easy to understand. Thank you very much for making it!
there is a way to compensate for your spring back. There is a comprehensive article in Coffmans stair building guide (I think volume 2). Baiscally, your center L bracket on your jig is screwed right on your line as you did. Then, for every L bracket thereafter (in both directions) is set 1/16th of a inch away from your line, but... (this is hard for me to explain but bear with me)... so, the first one after your center L bracket is a sixteenth away from the line, the next would be a eight inch away from the line, then the 3rd L bracket would be 3/16th inch away from the line....and so on until your all out of L brackets. You do this on both the left and right side of your jig, and once that baby spring backs its gonna be pretty much spot on. So, you know its gonna spring back, so make it a wee bit tighter of a radius and when it does, youll be golden ponyboy. other than that, you did an amazing job and great video. And im not saying all this to be big headed and act all smart but as a wise man told me one time, iron sharpens iron. keep on keeping on buddy. Hope u can make sense of my rambling, im not exactly a english major, just a carpenter.
kevin clayton carpentry Great and well explained suggestion. I will definitely do that on the next one. Thanks!
I just learned sin cosine tan on youtube now I wrote down that formula. I came up with 84.748 so yes 84.75 is it. Who ever figured out that formula is amazing. I love woodworking and math.
If your good with your hands and good at math you can make a lot of money.
Thank you for a helpful video. I haven't read all the comments, apologize if this is repeated- good quality construction adhesive between each strip couldn't hurt.
Some final notes: That was pretty spectacular! Totally impressed!
I never stop learning. Everyone has something to show and do.
Wonderful video! Made a railing for our curved deck thanks to YOU! The only problem I had, I made for myself by gluing the first strip to the screwed jig band. That meant I had to saw off the finished rail. Ha! Thanks for the math equation! Great instructional video!!
Fox Watson Awesome. So glad it worked out for you!
Very good info and easy to follow instructions. No overload of useless, "see how intelligent I am" info. This could easily be called, woodworking for dummies. Simplicity, what a beautiful thing. Thanks for the video.
brooks wade Thanks for the kind words and you're more than welcome ☺️
11:50 Take the time to find 16 or even 15 gauge nails, they are thicker and are much easier to remove if necessary. the 18 gauge are like skinny pins and when you grab them to pull them out they just snap.YES PEOPLE... LOWER NUMBER MEANS THICKER NAILS. I only use 18 gauge for very delicate projects.
Another tip is to shoot the nails at an angle inward from the end of the board so they hold better.
14:51 I would use a hand planer (Powered of course) or a belt sander Dunno how well the curve would go through a regular planer.
I really enjoy watching videos like this where you're not just guessing while making a video of your project.
Thumbs up #1463
Nice job! Appreciate your clear, concise and honest explanation of the steps.. can't wait to try it!
Great video!
You may already have this, but this formula calculates the amount of spring back. The trick will be figuring out how to adjust the form to compensate. Trial and error I guess.
Y=X/N²
Y = Spring Back
X = Inside Arc Height (your measurement of 15-1/4")
N = # of Layers (5 - not counting profile pieces)
So your spring back should be around 5/8" from center.
Excellent presentation Stephen - All the best from us in Scotland
Thanks for sharing formula for radius of this curve. We use it so much but without a formula ,,just by trying again and again . thanks again
Glad it's useful 👍
Beautiful job....I wish I had a porch that needed a railing like yours. Thanks so much for sharing - you are an excellent instructor. I only wish you had included a completed picture!
I'll try to include a shot of the installed railing in a future video 👍
Thanks for de-mystifying curve building. BTW, yours is the only YT video I have seen that has a commercial inserted in a convenient spot.
I'm literally walking towards my workshop to try this out, thanks!
Awesome. Good luck with it!
@@sporterhome Hi, it went great. I've made a couple of curved molds and everything worked out perfectly (the second time :3), thanks for the video!
@@eleSDSU That is great to hear!
Actually, I enjoyed the James Bond elevator music. Thanks for the radius formula. I knew I'd have to look it up sometime. Great presentation and darned good editing.
This is truly remarkable. I wish I knew this a year or two ago when I did my deck. Thanks for a great demonstration.
Tim Caron Thank you, kind sir
A very thoughtfully produced video; thank you.
This is very helpful! Thank you for sharing!
I like the methods and ideas you showed here. Very useful. I think I would make my arc a little exaggerated to compensate for spring back and I would roll the glue on both sides of each joint to ensure 100% glue coverage.
Nice job.
This was fun to watch! I love the quote at the end, Red Green is the man!
You know it! 🙂
well done.. glad to find you and this method, great way for a beginning carpenter like me with a full shop to really take advantage of everything and create some interesting things... not a content provider and don't think I will be but love love love learning concepts so I can apply them to my business!
Nice work. A lot of thought and work went into making this.
Love the red green reference at the end of the video. Thanks for the knowledge its much needed.
Bevel cut the pieces at the Inside joints will also take away some of the spring back you are getting, use a 60 to 70 degree cut and 3/4 brads at an angle to pull them tight. One or both might just solve any spring back at all. Nice how to DIY rail video I bet it helps a lot of peeps.
genius! Never thought of this one. I plan on making a railing on my conversion van and thanks to you I know how I'm going to do it!
Excellent job, both craftsmanship and presentation. Good editing, too. Thanks.
Great video Steve and I love that you referenced Red Green at the end. He is my Hero. LOL
That took some time. I hope someone appreciates your talents you are a doer not a follower. Great work.....
I'm going to have to remember this. I don't know if i'll ever get the chance to use it but I'd really like to. And the tip about the nail shooting into your hand is so true. My last job my coworker did just that. Nailing near a thin spot in a corner, the nail shot right through and into his palm. it was smaller gauge so didn't do much damage, just hurt like hell he said.
Suck it up butter cup, back to work! Lol. By the way, I've nailed my hand to my work with a 2 1/2" nail. Now that hurts!!! Pull it, wrap it, back to work.lol
Nice one, Stephen. I particularly liked the text at the end that forestalled any comments on your methodology I might have made...This process (with the right clamps, wood thickness, etc.), is a perfect way to add interest to a thin strip laminated table top. Thanks for sharing, I'm heading off to Sketchup for the layout and maths, and after that, to my woodpile to see if I have enough quarter sawn for the job. Greetings from South Africa.
Fascinating! I was so confused until the very end, and I was like ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh now I get it. Thanks!
Nice job! Straight forward and simple 👍 ignore the negative comments and thumbs down appreciate your time and energy.
just came across this video.Really good.As a retired joiner I've used this method quite a few time's and pretty much did exactly as you but with some modifications. To alleviate spring back,once the radius was established, I made the end L brkts inside the radius line by 1.5 inches so when it did spring back it finished almost exactly on the true radius line.Instead of butt joining the strips I cut the ends at 45° so I only had to fix one strip at the end and the next one wedged itself into the angle.This also Save's clamping it.Also used to run all the strips through the thicknesser to make the mating surfaces smooth. This way there's less filling when finished and exact dimensions can be kept to if specified. Just some thoughts.
I like that idea about the 45's on the ends. Thanks!
Wtf is a " thicknesser?"
william skrainski probably means a planer ...lol
William - Yanks call a 'planer thicknesser' a 'jointer planer'. The rest of the world calls it a planer thicknesser.
When we are are referring to a combo machine, of course. So 'jointing' is monkey babble speech for 'planing'. And 'planing' is the monkey babble equivalent of 'thicknessing'. Got it? 'Jointing' is edge only. Planing is face and edge. So thicknesser is the correct term, because a face planed board is then fed into the thicknesser to achieve the thickness required.
No we call one a jointer, and one a planer....we measure thickness, and i don't think "thicknesser" is even a word in the new world.
Really enjoyed this video. I'm an small time independent carpenter / everything. I would suggest you could try cutting and angle at the ends of the joined strips and start at those joints to mate them tightly as you would for joining trim mold that exceeds the normal lengths of stock. I constantly find myself having to figure out methods to do seemingly impossible repairs on older homes. It always work's out but often the time I invest in the process means I'm almost working for free. Or I'm laying in bed at 3 a.m. trying to work out a solution for a problem I must solve the next day. I need a good camera so I can start doing some videos of my own projects. Thank you and I will be watching maybe I will be able to sleep when I know I've seen a method, perhaps one of yours will work for me.
Thanks for sharing this tutorial! Very nice job! all the best from Brazil!!! Marcos
OSB was originally called "Particle Board" so don't worry about what you call it. How do I know this you ask? - my Dad was a Mechanical Engineer for Weyerhaeuser who designed the first automatic stacker for this new product in a mill in Coos Bay, Oregon in the 1950's. He went on to revolutionize lumber stacking in the industry. Oh yes, he was a Swedish/Norwegian American and his name was Sid.
Great video. You are a natural teacher. Keep working with wood to beautify your home.
Particle board is made with splinters of wood. OSB is made with long, flat chips and usually with water resistant glue. They are most definitely different products.
From nail to nail is the span.From center of span to the top of the arch is the rise. Half the span squared plus the rise squared divided by two times the rise gives you the radius
Great stuff! I'm going to do this tomorrow. I'm looking forward to it! Thanks!
Steve! Thank you so much for the video! Really appreciate the math layout too, you made it super easy! I have a couple of 2x4 fence rails done in the 50’s that are on their last days. And I’ve been racking my brain on how to do it. 👍🏻👍🏻
Glad to be of help. Good luck on your project!
This may work for the handrail I need to make this summer. My railing will not be on a flat plane though. Fingers crossed.
I love the Red Green quote at the end.
Is your handrail a spiral? I've been musing on doing a video for a spiraled version
It's not a spiral per se, it is a curved 4'×8' four step 180⁰ turn in my staircase. I just think a sweeping curve would look so much better than plain square corners.
@@Geoff_G Oh, nice. I hope this helped in some way and good luck with it 👍
Liked the Red Green quote on the end. Was a favorite show of mine once upon a time. Liked the rest of the video too.
I remember seeing this video a long time ago. I was blown away w/radius formula.
Since then I have learned the "Intersecting Chords Theorem".
Somehow this video got recommended to me again, so I wanted to know if I could use that chord theorem. Sure nuff, it works. The only problem I have is, trying to understand how this video has 1.5 million views, but only 9.4 thousand likes.
It's either your own home or you charge a fortune for that kind of work lol....people don't realise how much work will you put in there, was a nice finished piece,I like your video, I'm a carpenter my self,is there a part 2, to see the end product,watching from Ireland.
Good man Stephen. Great video and calm even delivery
Joe Thornton Why thank you, kind sir!
Nice project and nice technique. I can definitely see myself use that in the future. As a matter of fact I already have a project in mind for it.
Michael Bell Thanks and good luck with your project!
That looks absolutely great.A tip to compensate springage- tighten arc approx. what you think will lose
great job. i was in the boat building and repair business and did a lot of wood bending and going a little bit more on the bend on the jig would compensate for the spring back. also screw clamp make a tighter glue up.
Nice work and thanks for sharing. Like others have mentioned, I too would have enjoyed seeing the final product.
You're a very talented carpenter and I wish I could hire you
Great vid, and thanks for speeding up the repetitive parts as you did.
Tried not to be too boring, lol
Very nice work. I wish more clients in my area would ask for a bid on work like this.
You are a genius! I am busy right mnow with very much similar project.Your video gave me idea how to do it! Thanks a lot! Like and subscribed.
Glad to help. Good luck with with your project
Awesome work. Helped me work with a sailing boat railing!
Hey - great video! Great job talking through a simple process with awesome results. Thumbs up and subscribed!
Easy to follow how you figured out this challenge. I will skip placing the strips up on the LBrackets. Just place them at bott om against the plywood to make sure railing flat on bottom. But nice job!
Susan Reynolds Thanks and the reason I spaced it up from the bottom was so the railing wouldn't get glued to the base when it oozed out of the seams. Might be another way around that though
Stephen Porter Ok gotcha. Makes sense.
On the spring back you can somewhat overcome by over compensating on your arch radius - make it that 1/2" tighter and when you unclamp it will spring back that 1/2" and be very close to right on.
Definitely could do that (or thinner strips)
Great video! Everything is explained clearly and simply. I should have used this method for my curved deck.
Great video that is true craftsmanship! And it looked like one solid piece!
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to show us how you make these.
your video editing skills are entertaining, with your sound effects and all ;)
I agree with you, like Flash..the super heroe
Or at least until the check clears.
Just saw your vid, and I must say nice! very creative and, as you stated, when steaming isn't an option.
It actually looked like one piece. Thanks for the lesson.
Just stumbled across this video, and I gotta say, I never would've thought of this method, but it's genius. Also, very nice use of a Red Green quote. :)
this video is borderline genius, thank you for sharing!
And good tip on the nails, the longer ones are very unpredictable. I have actually shot a 2 inch nail through my thumb. Not fun.
Ouch. We've all learned similar lessons the hard way
PM's go nuts if one gets too fancy. anyone?
looks great bro. nice job