The #1 Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves

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When confronted with hard moves, most climbers go immediately to finger strength or body tension or effort levels. A place we rarely examine is the start of the move, but it's the culprit a lot of the time. In this video we examine the common setup mistakes we make, as well as a few strategies to avoid these mistakes and improve at finding the right positions and tension for harder moves and harder climbs.
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CHAPTERS:
00:00 Intro
01:11 There are No Rules
01:40 The Principle of Moving Between Stable Positions
02:28 It’s Not About the MOST Stable Position
04:12 The Common Thing We Get Wrong
04:32 Examples
05:36 Sport Climbers vs. Boulderers
06:12 How Advantageous Start Positions Change with Strength
06:48 If You Stick the Move, How Do You Know What to Change?
07:36 Sloth Climbing (Half-Speed)
08:46 False Starts
09:54 Where Better Climbers Get Stuck
10:12 Weigh the Options
10:39 Ask Yourself Questions
11:04 Purpose of the Drills
11:30 Wrap Up
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DISCLAIMER: Climbing and training for climbing is inherently dangerous. Anything you do is at your own risk and Power Company Climbing and our coaches takes no responsibility.
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[@PowerCompanyClimbing]

Use code TUBE for 20% off of my book The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber link.powercompanyclimbing.com/truth

[@MrChristof1234567890]

I am such a fan of the videos you’ve been putting out. Even before this “higher effort,” your videos changed my climbing completely. Now with these longer videos, i feel bad for any climber who doesn’t know your channel exists

[@PowerCompanyClimbing]

Thank you! We’ve got a long way to go still, but the plan is to make it the best teaching channel out there.

[@MusicRunLife]

I think I've been contemplating this subconsciously for years, but have never been able to capture it in words. You've done that perfectly. I think a fantastic athlete to represent what you're describing here is Sorato Anraku. Coming from a lead-background, his setups are so flawless that he makes moves look twice as easy as his peers!

[@PowerCompanyClimbing]

I’ll check him out!

[@PapaBenny]

This is amazing. Content like these get me psyched to climb more.

[@PowerCompanyClimbing]

Yes! Psyched that you’re psyched!

[@AlecARGH]

Thanks for the tip! Will try later today!

[@JUSTINCHEN-zs2lj]

really good breakdown of a new way to think of momentum and generating for me. thank you!!

[@PowerCompanyClimbing]

Glad it's helpful! I probably spend too much time rethinking how we look at things, but occasionally it pays off.

[@joolsgrommers1466]

I'd been doing the hover drill again after decades of not bothering, and then decided to do the false start one. Then watched this video a few days later... Ha, learned something from your constraint led approach podcasts..

[@PowerCompanyClimbing]

Good to hear! Glad you’re getting something from them!

[@rock_joy]

Excellent Kris! Congrats for these and for written in stone, aka the best climbing podcast out there (from a fellow podcaster). If you ever want to know more about Bernabé Fernández give me a shout ;)

[@PowerCompanyClimbing]

@rock_joy I suspect that Bernabé will play a role in the 2000s when we get there, so I absolutely will. Maybe sooner than later actually, and I’ll just hold on to it until the 2000s come up! Thanks for the good words!

[@whelmking6497]

Another very helpful vid.

[@PowerCompanyClimbing]

Thanks. Figuring out our system over here. More coming!

[@pier-oliviermoreau4374]

@@PowerCompanyClimbing I think you’re on to something. : ) I knew those drills from your proven plan. Still the video add context and help better understand concept and how to apply it.

[@PowerCompanyClimbing]

@@pier-oliviermoreau4374 to be honest, in the case of the false starts in particular, it took a while for me to understand why it was valuable! I'd seen it work for some high level climbers in very specific situations, but wasn't entirely sure why.

[@khakicam5400]

Shit hot Kris, thanks heaps