I broke off a 1/2" extension yesterday trying to get mine loose with a breaker bar. I couldn't get it off with the impact gun either. This morning, I tried the impact gun again with a short 1/2" hose and it came right out with little trouble. I guess it's the hose size that can make the difference sometimes.
LOL. I used a 20" Husky 1/2" extension on a breaker bar. I wrapped a strong rope on the handle of the breaker bar, and attached the other end to my work truck. LOL. Put my wife in the truck, and had the end of the breaker bar/extension against my knee. That's what held it steady the best. And BAM! Did I break the tools, did I break it loose? HEY! I broke it loose. LOL. My wife kept saying how much of a bad idea it was. Which it wasn't genius. But it worked. :D
Mine was an absolute beast! Had to track that tool down in 5 seperate stores and then had to use a breaker bar 10 feet long! Still wouldnt break. Bowed my head and whispered a prayer and it broke loose. Sometimes these bolts need some super intervention! What was Honda thinking lol
You made my 2 hour struggle with this exact bolt seem easy. i did even have the special tool and the car was quite high on the jack stands. No air tool touched it and it took 2 guys leaning on extended bars to break it loose. i don't know who serviced the car last, but I'd swear it was as close to welded as I've found any bolt that didn't shear off.
+South Main Auto Repair I tried using the Lisle tool with my Sunex 450 ft lbs air impact, and a 6 gallon compressor, but it wouldn't budge. I had the pulley locked in place with the Honda hex tool. Maybe my compressor was just too small for the job, not sure. I ended up having to use heat (MAP torch) and an 8 ft pipe on a breaker bar to break it free. Then I had to use the pipe again to tighten the damn bolt back down 47 ft-lbs plus 60 degrees.
Used the 'Honda' to hold the pulley, both the tool and breaker bar bent prior to the bolt coming loose, and no, there was no corrosion involved. First removal since it left the factory. Must have had an enthusiastic tech putting that one on.
I did this YEARS ago on my '08 Accord with the Lisle crank bolt socket. Then last week i got the crank bolt off my '15 Audi with another Lisle crank bolt socket. Those sockets are about $30 a piece but worth their weight in gold !
For 3G TL (04-08), per Acura MM, (PG 6-12 for 04 models), certain components on/behind the crank pulley need to be cleaned, and engine oil applied onto the threads & mating surface of the bolt & washer. The specified TQ is 181 ft-lbs (probably the tightest bolt on these cars as well as the front wheel hub nut). The special tool Eric's holding are: 07MAB-PY3010A, 07JAB-001020B (the bar & the head are sold separately for some stupid reason). The MM also specifies the 19mm socket as 07JAA-001020A (not sure if you actually need this). They are readily available at some on-line vendors. My IR 780 ft-lbs wireless impact (nut-busting 1130 ft-lbs whatever) usually does the job very well, except in the case of this bolt I had to heat it with a portable torch then it came out like nothing.
This job sucked so bad on my 97 accord. The holding tool doesn't fit up nicely against the body in that car, so I had to leverage it on the floor and hold it with my feet while I used a massive cheater pipe and basically put my entire weight on it. When it finally came loose I thought for sure I snapped the engine in half.
+Zach Grounds I can relate amigo! I've loosened that bolt three times and I'm only now slightly getting used that horrific CRACK sound. :) There are several good videos how to probably avoid you using your feet. Let me know if you can't find them.
Yes, bar against the floor works well. I had the bolt off my Legend in about 10 secs, but the sound it makes when it finally breaks loose was a little startling. I thought for sure my cheap Harbor Freight breaker bar was going to snap in half, but it held up well.
I did the timing belt in my Honda a month back. I watched various vids beforehand got a bit concerned I must say at how hard it seemed. Problem 1 is stopping the crank turning, my solution was to remove the flywheel cover and jammed the end of a large screwdriver against the teeth which worked good for me. Problem 2 is removing the bolt. I had to use a breaker with a pipe on it and so much force in the end that I sheared the end off my 1/2" extension (which was supported by a jack) inside the socket. I tried again with another better quality extension after treating the bolt to heat from a torch but it still wouldn't budge. I then borrowed a friends 1/2" Super cheap rattle gun and like Eric did set to 120psi and "Brrrrrrrr" the bolt undid straight away! First time using a rattle gun for me and I was well impressed.
Not kidding those bolts are stupid tight. I remember back when I took on a side job(Timing belt) at the person's house. Was a early 90's accord manual transmission. Figured I'd put it in gear and have someone hold brake pedal while I used my breaker bar and jack handle for the crank bolt. Didn't work because the clutch would turn. Ended up putting #1 cylinder on comp stroke, and filling that cyl with water. Then when I was done, removed a vacuume line and siphoned it empty, . Thought I was pretty creative at the time. Looking back, I'm lucky I didn't eat that engine. But it did work.
ive used a length of old belt around the crank pully for grip and to protect it with a vise grip chain wrench then socket with enough extensions to get out past the side of the car resting on a jack stand with a breaker bar and 4 foot pipe.
Great video Eric! Your in depth approach to explaining the ins and outs of auto repair are great for the DIYers as well as up and coming mechanics. You've inspired me to attend tech school, with graduation set for April 2017. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Eric for the vid! For those of you without an air compressor or air tools you might want to try the 1/2 in electric impact wrench from Harbor Freight... I got mine for $40 on sale and it makes quick work of crankshaft bolts, suspension bolts, etc. etc.
I have to remove the crankshaft position sensor which I heard is under the harmonic balancer on a Honda Element 2005. Is this the same process as you're expressing in this video or can you leave a link just something that could help me out. Thanks so much Eric. You are a TH-cam lifesaver!
I once removed the crank pulley bolt from my Saab 9000 using its own engine, as in setting a breaker bar in place and then using the starter motor to turn the engine. I had to do this since it would NOT open any other way; the bolt had actually come a bit loose, causing the pulley to also come a bit loose and wedge itself _over_ the key and in the process wedging everything else very firmly in place. It was properly stuck.
+Mawerick77 Many Hondas operate in "reverse" (counter clockwise) rotation, which makes that method unsuitable. Plenty of guys have broken stuff trying them that way.
I did that on my 91 Camry. learned it from TH-cam! first try broke a craftsman usa chrome socket (bad idea I know) but then got it off with a harbor freight impact socket
Correct, these Honda's turn anti-clockwise so the starter trick that works on other cars won't work here. Using the starter will get you in a LOT of trouble and probably strip the bolt or crank - if the bar doesn't fly out and kill someone 1st
Thanks for the informative vids Eric - much appreciated. I couldn't get the holding tool but I can tell you a DeWalt DCF899 knocks these out like they aren't there and no special tools other than an impact socket needed
I have the same impact. It wouldn't budge the last Honda I did. Had to use a 6ft cheater pipe on my breaker bar. Thought for sure I was going to break something lol. Got er done tho lol
Ha, when I was doing my J-series V6 timing belt, the nut wasn't that easy to come off. Even with a impact gun I struggled. These are usually torqued between 175 and 189 lb/ft for Civic and Accord respectively.
How times have changed in just 5 years! This week, I went to a junkward to test my new mid torque Makita XWT17, and with a 19 mm Lisle socket I was able to tackle successfully 4 of those infamous bolts in Accords and Civics from the 90's and early 2000's.
The older D series stuff(pre-92) doesn't have this style of crank pulley but rather a solid/nondampened pulley with some holes in it. My method is to pop the starter out on a manual car and jam a screw driver in the pressure plate. Get it wedged against the transmission casing through the starter hole and use a good long jack handle. Works on all of them too so if you don't want to get the correct tool you can always do it in a pinch.
breaker bar on the crank bolt resting against the ground (in the correct position), then you bump the starter (turn the key) a couple times will get the bolt loose in most situations. i have not tried this on a Honda because it's FWD and i have an AirCat impact gun that will remove anything. But i use this often on RWD vehicles or longitudinally mounted FWD vehicles and it works every time.
When I had to replace the head gasket on the 2003 1.7L, I never had a car lift and my impact gun would not loosen the bolt. Ended up using the crank tool attached to a breaker bar touching the ground to hold the crank steady, then used a 1/2" socket with a couple of 1/2" extensions to clear the fender, rested the end on the extensions on a jack stand, and used a breaker bar to loosen the bolt.
LOL! Mine just fell out driving down the highway 300 miles from home. First indication of problem: No power steeering, alternator charging, etc. Balancer/pulley fell off and fortunately lodged in near fender well and didn't get lost. Crank end got chewed up pretty good but mechanic was able to dress it up some and reassemble with new bolt and key kit and red lock tight. Said he was sure it would get me home but said I should really get a new crank. 20 k later still driving it but just locally. 2001 Civic with 346 k
Eric- I've never had a problem with the aftermarket tool, in almost 20 years of garage timing belt changes. 2 good 1/2" breakers and maybe a short cheater, and they always come off.I guess I'm lucky, living near Chicago. 'Patina' is a way of life. I've never liked using impacts on the crank of a Honda motor. The bearings are all kinda on the small side (duh, small motors need small bearings) but if you can spare the 5-10 minutes to do it by hand, it seems much safer for the motor. No?
If you’re using an impact with socket method, do you not need the Honda tool for holding the crank in place? I’m worried it’s going to try spinning counter clockwise and throw off the timing
Harbor Freight 1/2 corded Item#64120 1050 lbs breakaway $109.99 works surprising well. Very cost effective using the thick socket. IR makes great guns, I had an IR231 everyone in the shop used at one time or another. The HF gun for the weekend warriors, BTW Thanks for all the videos Eric,,,,,,
Do the Honda 3.5. Not so easy. I don't know if it's been over torqued with an impact wrench or it's just the nature of the beast, but those are always a problem, it seems.
Don't be fooled. The car Eric used in this video is a 2004 Civic with a timing belt. This is likely not the first timing belt done on that vehicle, so that bolt has been pulled before. Try that same impact on say.... a Honda 2.4L which has a timing chain and a crank bolt which has never been pulled before. Guarantee you, Eric would be hammerin away for an hour in vain with that thing. I used a Brand new Dewalt DCF900 with a Harbor Freight 19" impact socket on one couldn't pull it...and that impact is a beast with 1400 lbs of breakaway torque. Sent off for the Lisle crank pulley socket which weighs almost 2 lbs. Waiting on it now.
I think most air impact setups don't have enough air flow with 1/4 fittings, 3/8 air hose that is too long. Most videos have anemic sounding air impacts. My setup is Ingersoll Rand 2135TIMAX on regular impact socket, with 50' long, 1/2 diameter hose, 3/8" quick connect HF fitting. I set my 30 gallon air compressor to 120 PSI static. I broke my 2007 Accord 2.4L crank bolt loose to replace rusty oil pan. It took around 3 seconds. To verify it wasn't a fluke, I tried on my Mom's 07 Accord 2.4L. Same thing.
Eric, I suspect the reason your impact gun worked unexpectedly was because the last person to tighten it didn't torque it to specs. In other words it was probably loose, not falling off loose but not that tight.
I was going to say 6 months to late for me but i used an air impact it did not even touch it the reason being was someone before me had lost the woodruff key and hence tightened the hell out of it. What I done in the end was put piston 1 to BDC on compression stroke and put some rope in the bore this locked off the engine when I turned the crank to loosen the bolt to do it I needed a scaffold pole to break it loose. Put a new woodruff key timing belt and water pump and done.
+Steven Watson YOu did it right. Rope in the cylinder? Brilliant! It's also a way to "remove valves" without taking the cylinder head off. I guess you'd have to drop the pistons. I don't see how you'd reinstall, lol. Seriously, I don't see how that's helpful information, lol. I was taught you could do that and I wonder why one would ever want to.
Hi Eric, I ended up braking the hex on the harmonic balancer. Will I have trouble if I just replace the broken balancer or do I need to replace the balancer???
Hi what is the breaker bar attachment for a holder handle you mentioned? I see I can take off the bolt with a lisle harmonic balancer but am wondering how I could torque back to proper specs without a holder handle. Don't want to spend 120 on one for a one time use.
That IR impact gun looks similar than my wurth DSS premium which should have 1100nm torque opening.. It is quite nice tool i have to say. I use same pressure, approx 8bar.
Usually air is your best bet since those Civic crank pulley bolts can really be on there good. If you don't have air, then you can use the brakes (put it in gear and have a friend hold the brakes), try to hold the flywheel centered with a screwdriver through the hole (forgot which hole it was), which I wouldn't recommend as you can chip a tooth, or lastly, buy the LITTLE crank pulley tool (just the end piece). Think that last one is the best bet after all the Hondas I've seen/done.
Ok. Got that loosened. How about when you put it back on? Torque? Don't use still have to somehow hold the crankshaft and still need that holding tool?
Hi Sir. Eric.i have issue with my civic 96 crankshaft.my car mechanic told me to replace the half block for the reason the the thread inside are damaged. Is it advice to replace the half block completely? Or is there any option ? kindly advice.Thank you.
Is it recommended to replace the factory crank pulley with a quality aftermarket light weight aluminum crank pulley in order to reduce engine drag and get the most of it's performance? Will it cause any component damage?
the best tool for those insanely tight bolts is a socket made by Lisle. part number LIS77080. works with nearly any air gun and even some battery powered impact.
Eric I follow your channel for a long time and I also like a lot of your videos. But today I'm sure someone before you had unscrewed and then not tightened to the correct torque. It was very easy with the air gun.
Hey, I recently bought a 1996 Es300 w/ 68,000 miles on it. The recent driver barely drove the car and left it without being driven sometimes but always maintenanced the crap out of it at the Lexus Dealership. Since Ive had it, every 3-6 days the car has a somewhat almost nasty sound AFTER it starts up(some clunking sounds that doesnt sound good), but then it goes away after a few seconds. This time the horrible sounds started after I finished starting the car, it made the same noise that I was talking about then the engine shut off. The car kept turning off after I barely started it until I got lucky enough to have enough time to put the car into drive and quickly start driving it and then the problem goes away and car drives normally. I drive it every day and this happens whether the engine is warm or not and I am predicting it will happen in a few days. What do you think this is and to diagnose it? Btw thank you for answering my last question. I appreciate every good that you do for us here on youtube.
Hi! A great video as always! Thanks a lot. A small question on a side - I've wanted to see your article on the timing belt replacement, but you site shows error 403 and tells me my location is blocked.
After torching, solvents and torquing with cheater pipes and breaking extensions I'm sold on the battery impact wrench. My neighbor said, "Oh, I have one of those drivers." The 18V Milwaukee Fuel broke that LITTLE bolt out like it was 10mm.
I split my lip trying to break that loose. I broke two 1/2 inch snap-on breaker bars after putting it in 5th gear and jamming the passenger side lugs with a pry bar against the ground, and then I tried a 3/4 inch breaker bar and ended up bending the pry bar on the passenger side. So I tried the starter trick. " Putting the breaker bar against the frame and just bumping the starter" but unfortunately the bolt was right hand threaded and the motor was counter clockwise so the starter trick would have just tightened it more. So I left the breaker bar on and put it against the frame, got in the car and pushed it backwards with my feet which was easy to do because the drive way was level, I got it going pretty good, put it in 1st gear, dumped the clutch and the car suddenly stopped and I hit my mouth on the steering wheel which gave me the split lip lol. I tried it a couple more times and finally got it on the third try :)
Hey Eric. I'm working on my 94 Accord and I can't seem to get my crank bolt off. I've tried practically everything form the special tools with the breaker bar to a special impact socket make by Lisle on an impact wretch. I don't know what else to do. Seeoing professional help and advice. Have you ever seen a honda crank bolt that is reverse thread? Or do you think that this could be because someone probably used too much "lock tight". What do you think i should do if I can't get it off? Please get back to me in this 🙏 😭
Once this crank pulley is done does that mean the motor is to? Might sound slow but was wondering cause my civic gave me so many problem don’t feel it’s worth fixing
Hi Eric I see these video is from back in 2016 you should check out the Ingersoll-Rand 19 mm “power socket” they take off Honda crank bolts with electric impact check it out...... Well worth the 50 bucks
Is it safe to do the ol key bump trick or not....you know where u secure a ratchet on bolt and slightly turn key n let motor turn over enough to break it loose??????
I GOT A 2002 HONDA CIVIC EX. I HAVE SPUN BEARING AND MY QUESTION IS CAN U GET ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE CRANK SHAFT WITH OUT TAKING THE MOTOR OUT. NOW I UNDERSTAND IT WOULD BE EASEIR TO TAKE THE MOTOR OUT I JUST DONT HAVE ENGINE PULLER OR WHAT EVER U CALL THEM THINGS OR THE MONEY
Eric, do you think it's important to use a 6-pointed socket instead of a 12-point if someone is going the breaker bar route? On my '91 Integra It took a breaker bar taller than the car and my full body weight to crack it!
@@BialyOrzel777 lol,.... the crank pulley bolt. before i did that i tried using 2 impact wrenches with no success. i bought a crank pulley holder from autozon that sheet broke.
@@qrs3658 yooooooo that way Worked it took couple tries, also my Mechanic friend advised me that... i thought it was a joke.... but No , it it the best way to get it loose , breaker bar and good 19 mm socket against subframe and quick on off .... boooooommmmm
Got mine off with a battery powered harbor freight earthquake half inch impact gun. $275 I’m working on a 1998 Honda Accord can you reuse the crank balancer bolt. I feel like someone told me in passing that you can’t reuse them?
I did an '88 Accord a few years back that was so bad a 3/4 drive impact wouldn't get it out. I ended up having to drill a hole in the center of the bolt and keep stepping up to larger and larger drill bits until it finally came out.
Really need help with this car Mazda 3. I spend 3 days trying to get the crankshaft pulley bolt out. Used everything you could imagine. Went to a shop they used their impact gun it did not remove it. I went back home and start applying penetrating oil for the next 48 hr whenever I get out. The following day I tried the bump start method that was not working and it unbolt the pulley bolt. I was able to remove everything and start installing a new timing chain. At this point when I was trying to get to TDC when rotating the Crankshaft clockwise it will go like 300 degree and does not let me align the special too and the counterweight. It turn counter clockwise and get stuck too before I can reach TDC. I Tried manually to rotate but it make a hitting sound Metal vs Metal. I turned clockwise until it stopped maybe 5 degree before TDC. (It is still stuck) I reassemble everything the pulley and all the car components. I tried to rotate the crankshaft clockwise and it it still stuck before completing a complete circle. I tried to crank the car and it does not turn on( something is preventing the crank to rotate feely). Initially I decided to change the timing chain because I had the code P0012 and P011 at the same time or P0012 always.
real tool reviews did a review of a giant impact socket made for honda crank bolts and it looked like a good concept, took a crank bolt off with an 18v impact, cant remember who made maybe lisle or otc
you read my friggin mind... I'm doing head gasket, t-belt and water pump on an 01 civic 1.7l. saw this video after I went and borrowed the tool from Oreillys...
I remember the first time I had to remove a crank bolt I had no special tools or even an impact to come by. I ended up deliberately locking the crankshaft by putting a brick on the brake pedal and sticking it in 5th gear. An ordinary breaker bar and socket worked fine at that point. Desperate times = desperate measures and I was literally using the brake pads to push off of that day.
+Timothy Lingo I used their cheapest electric impact driver to remove the crank bolt on my '89 Prelude. It's the only thing I bought it for, and aside from convenience of removing lug nuts, the only thing I've needed it for since. Worth the $40 or whatever I paid.
+Timothy Lingo I've been using it for years. Still going strong. Using cheap air tool oil almost took it out! Matco air tool oil got it working perfect again. I felt the seal in the trigger going until that reconditioned it to better function than new. :)
+SATAMAN Schmidt Been a while since I've talked to you. How have you been old friend? I've started making automotive repair videos too. Thus, adding the "AutoBravado" nickname as that's the name I've written about 75 articles over the years online. :)
What's the average torque spec for those crank bolts on Accords and Civics? I usually just add some blue thread locker, hand spin it in and then hit that bolt with my 1/2 impact on max power.
Just let the starter motor do the work. Jam the breaker bar under the chassis or suspension, and turn the engine over with the starter (obviously disconnect the coils). It will pop the crank bolt right off. Done this many times.
Last Honda timing belt I did I had to borrow 3/4" impact gun with 1800 lb.ft of reverse torque. Not a single 1/2" gun didnt open that bolt. 850+ lb.ft did absolutely nothing. Sometimes they are like welded in Hondas.
+JokariX Exactly. I've been there myself. Actually, I wasn't expecting my impact to work as well as it did and I would have to show using the special tool instead.
I've been reading from the "experts" in the TH-cam comment section saying dont use a impact gun on crank pulleys bc it will damage the bearings. Any truth behind this?
No truth to it at all. Imagine how much extra time the Honda/Acura techs would need for 100K mile services if only hand tools were allowed. That and the fact that millions of Honda engines are still running fine after decades of crank bolts being removed this way. Don't let the armchair "techs" stress you out, and good luck :)
im 20 years old and i was replacing a new water pump in my 2004 Honda Civic engine this was my 1st time doing it but sad thingi bend valve and i and i just get it right this time
Been working on mine for hours. Watching you get that off in ten seconds has caused physical pain.
I broke off a 1/2" extension yesterday trying to get mine loose with a breaker bar. I couldn't get it off with the impact gun either. This morning, I tried the impact gun again with a short 1/2" hose and it came right out with little trouble. I guess it's the hose size that can make the difference sometimes.
LOL. I used a 20" Husky 1/2" extension on a breaker bar. I wrapped a strong rope on the handle of the breaker bar, and attached the other end to my work truck. LOL. Put my wife in the truck, and had the end of the breaker bar/extension against my knee. That's what held it steady the best. And BAM! Did I break the tools, did I break it loose? HEY! I broke it loose. LOL. My wife kept saying how much of a bad idea it was. Which it wasn't genius. But it worked. :D
@@ElkStirrinTheHoney I want to believe this happened
@@harbinger6753 My story?
@@ElkStirrinTheHoney yes. if you really did this and didn't video it I feel bad for you.
Mine was an absolute beast! Had to track that tool down in 5 seperate stores and then had to use a breaker bar 10 feet long! Still wouldnt break. Bowed my head and whispered a prayer and it broke loose. Sometimes these bolts need some super intervention! What was Honda thinking lol
You made my 2 hour struggle with this exact bolt seem easy. i did even have the special tool and the car was quite high on the jack stands. No air tool touched it and it took 2 guys leaning on extended bars to break it loose. i don't know who serviced the car last, but I'd swear it was as close to welded as I've found any bolt that didn't shear off.
When I did a video on this I showed the Lisle LIS77080 socket that they make for these bolts. Works like a charm even with a weak sauce gun.
I've used the 77080 socket on 3 Honda's, it's the newest and best way to get them off.
bross956 Oh yeah I have done many Honda T-belts sense I have bought mine and it is simple physics :) works every time!
+South Main Auto Repair This would have been a good video two years ago. It's now irrelevant with the introduction of the Lisle tool.
Meow we need to buy ETCG one :)
+South Main Auto Repair I tried using the Lisle tool with my Sunex 450 ft lbs air impact, and a 6 gallon compressor, but it wouldn't budge. I had the pulley locked in place with the Honda hex tool. Maybe my compressor was just too small for the job, not sure.
I ended up having to use heat (MAP torch) and an 8 ft pipe on a breaker bar to break it free. Then I had to use the pipe again to tighten the damn bolt back down 47 ft-lbs plus 60 degrees.
I bought the Honda pulley tool several years ago for about $25. It has been invaluable. I know O'Reilly's loans them, also.
I swear, floor jack handles were designed to fit over 1/2" ratchets & breaker bars as they have always been my cheater bar of choice.
+Jason Young I bent my floor jack handle using it for this job.
+Zach Grounds What were you working on?
+Jason Young You're right. I've been using one for years.
Jason Young 97 Accord. It was a harbor freight floor jack handle, and it just bent enough to not go back into the jack.
+Zach Grounds oh a HF jack, that makes sense now.
I used my Milwaukee Hi-Torque 18 volt impact gun with the Lisle socket. Took it off like it was loose.
Left to loosen for those who came to check
I made the honda tool myself. Weld a big nut to a metal strip en you're done. Worked like a charm 👌
What size nut?
+Dario Ortiz I can't remember, I believe it was something like 40mm.
+Luca Car Mods Genius! If i knew how to weld, i'd do the same
Dario Ortiz it's a 50 mm hex
@@LucaCarMods //t/t y555 tug 555⁵⁵//t$$hi
Used the 'Honda' to hold the pulley, both the tool and breaker bar bent prior to the bolt coming loose, and no, there was no corrosion involved. First removal since it left the factory. Must have had an enthusiastic tech putting that one on.
I did this YEARS ago on my '08 Accord with the Lisle crank bolt socket. Then last week i got the crank bolt off my '15 Audi with another Lisle crank bolt socket. Those sockets are about $30 a piece but worth their weight in gold !
For 3G TL (04-08), per Acura MM, (PG 6-12 for 04 models), certain components on/behind the crank pulley need to be cleaned, and engine oil applied onto the threads & mating surface of the bolt & washer. The specified TQ is 181 ft-lbs (probably the tightest bolt on these cars as well as the front wheel hub nut).
The special tool Eric's holding are: 07MAB-PY3010A, 07JAB-001020B (the bar & the head are sold separately for some stupid reason). The MM also specifies the 19mm socket as 07JAA-001020A (not sure if you actually need this). They are readily available at some on-line vendors.
My IR 780 ft-lbs wireless impact (nut-busting 1130 ft-lbs whatever) usually does the job very well, except in the case of this bolt I had to heat it with a portable torch then it came out like nothing.
This job sucked so bad on my 97 accord. The holding tool doesn't fit up nicely against the body in that car, so I had to leverage it on the floor and hold it with my feet while I used a massive cheater pipe and basically put my entire weight on it. When it finally came loose I thought for sure I snapped the engine in half.
+Zach Grounds I can relate amigo! I've loosened that bolt three times and I'm only now slightly getting used that horrific CRACK sound. :) There are several good videos how to probably avoid you using your feet. Let me know if you can't find them.
+Zach Grounds Same thing happened on my 99 accord. It wasn't fun. lol.
Yes, bar against the floor works well. I had the bolt off my Legend in about 10 secs, but the sound it makes when it finally breaks loose was a little startling. I thought for sure my cheap Harbor Freight breaker bar was going to snap in half, but it held up well.
you can torch the washer and then do it . Helps a lot people say.
I did the timing belt in my Honda a month back. I watched various vids beforehand got a bit concerned I must say at how hard it seemed. Problem 1 is stopping the crank turning, my solution was to remove the flywheel cover and jammed the end of a large screwdriver against the teeth which worked good for me. Problem 2 is removing the bolt. I had to use a breaker with a pipe on it and so much force in the end that I sheared the end off my 1/2" extension (which was supported by a jack) inside the socket. I tried again with another better quality extension after treating the bolt to heat from a torch but it still wouldn't budge. I then borrowed a friends 1/2" Super cheap rattle gun and like Eric did set to 120psi and "Brrrrrrrr" the bolt undid straight away! First time using a rattle gun for me and I was well impressed.
Not kidding those bolts are stupid tight. I remember back when I took on a side job(Timing belt) at the person's house. Was a early 90's accord manual transmission. Figured I'd put it in gear and have someone hold brake pedal while I used my breaker bar and jack handle for the crank bolt. Didn't work because the clutch would turn. Ended up putting #1 cylinder on comp stroke, and filling that cyl with water. Then when I was done, removed a vacuume line and siphoned it empty, . Thought I was pretty creative at the time. Looking back, I'm lucky I didn't eat that engine. But it did work.
I know this comment is two years old but man that is fucking gnarly lmao. A great and horrible idea all at the same time.
ive used a length of old belt around the crank pully for grip and to protect it with a vise grip chain wrench then socket with enough extensions to get out past the side of the car resting on a jack stand with a breaker bar and 4 foot pipe.
Great video Eric! Your in depth approach to explaining the ins and outs of auto repair are great for the DIYers as well as up and coming mechanics. You've inspired me to attend tech school, with graduation set for April 2017. Keep up the good work!
+normandproulx11 Good luck in school and thanks very much for your comment.
How u doing now dude?
The Lisle 77080 socket works wonders
Thanks Eric for the vid! For those of you without an air compressor or air tools you might want to try the 1/2 in electric impact wrench from Harbor Freight... I got mine for $40 on sale and it makes quick work of crankshaft bolts, suspension bolts, etc. etc.
Always loosen the crank pulley bolt before your power steering/alternator belts. Always helps
I have to remove the crankshaft position sensor which I heard is under the harmonic balancer on a Honda Element 2005. Is this the same process as you're expressing in this video or can you leave a link just something that could help me out. Thanks so much Eric. You are a TH-cam lifesaver!
I once removed the crank pulley bolt from my Saab 9000 using its own engine, as in setting a breaker bar in place and then using the starter motor to turn the engine. I had to do this since it would NOT open any other way; the bolt had actually come a bit loose, causing the pulley to also come a bit loose and wedge itself _over_ the key and in the process wedging everything else very firmly in place. It was properly stuck.
+Mawerick77 Many Hondas operate in "reverse" (counter clockwise) rotation, which makes that method unsuitable. Plenty of guys have broken stuff trying them that way.
I did that w my Toyota. But w Hondas it'll just tighten the bolt and damage it since its reversed
I did that on my 91 Camry. learned it from TH-cam! first try broke a craftsman usa chrome socket (bad idea I know) but then got it off with a harbor freight impact socket
+Joseph Zoltan Thanks! I was thinking, he had to take it to the right to unscrew it by the look of the air gun, right?
Correct, these Honda's turn anti-clockwise so the starter trick that works on other cars won't work here. Using the starter will get you in a LOT of trouble and probably strip the bolt or crank - if the bar doesn't fly out and kill someone 1st
Thanks for the informative vids Eric - much appreciated. I couldn't get the holding tool but I can tell you a DeWalt DCF899 knocks these out like they aren't there and no special tools other than an impact socket needed
I have the same impact. It wouldn't budge the last Honda I did. Had to use a 6ft cheater pipe on my breaker bar. Thought for sure I was going to break something lol. Got er done tho lol
Ha, when I was doing my J-series V6 timing belt, the nut wasn't that easy to come off. Even with a impact gun I struggled. These are usually torqued between 175 and 189 lb/ft for Civic and Accord respectively.
+February everybody says getting that damn nut off is the hardest part of doing the timing belt on those J series engines lmao
krauser979
180 ft/lb + 15 years of rust = struggle. It's even harder to take off on Toyota 4 cylinders of 1998-2005 vintage
How times have changed in just 5 years! This week, I went to a junkward to test my new mid torque Makita XWT17, and with a 19 mm Lisle socket I was able to tackle successfully 4 of those infamous bolts in Accords and Civics from the 90's and early 2000's.
2:35 DISCO!
The older D series stuff(pre-92) doesn't have this style of crank pulley but rather a solid/nondampened pulley with some holes in it. My method is to pop the starter out on a manual car and jam a screw driver in the pressure plate. Get it wedged against the transmission casing through the starter hole and use a good long jack handle. Works on all of them too so if you don't want to get the correct tool you can always do it in a pinch.
breaker bar on the crank bolt resting against the ground (in the correct position), then you bump the starter (turn the key) a couple times will get the bolt loose in most situations. i have not tried this on a Honda because it's FWD and i have an AirCat impact gun that will remove anything. But i use this often on RWD vehicles or longitudinally mounted FWD vehicles and it works every time.
Perfect TY. Was wondering if I could impact it off or had no choice but to buy the tool. Compressor it shall be in the morning
Thanks to you I am using ingersoll rand for all my air tools. 1/2", 3/8" impact, air hammer, angle grinder. Best tools on planet.
Bought the socket seen on Eric O channel & probably 30 crank bolts in a row no problems. Also fits Toyota 4 cyl that use 19 mm.
When I had to replace the head gasket on the 2003 1.7L, I never had a car lift and my impact gun would not loosen the bolt. Ended up using the crank tool attached to a breaker bar touching the ground to hold the crank steady, then used a 1/2" socket with a couple of 1/2" extensions to clear the fender, rested the end on the extensions on a jack stand, and used a breaker bar to loosen the bolt.
LOL! Mine just fell out driving down the highway 300 miles from home. First indication of problem: No power steeering, alternator charging, etc. Balancer/pulley fell off and fortunately lodged in near fender well and didn't get lost. Crank end got chewed up pretty good but mechanic was able to dress it up some and reassemble with new bolt and key kit and red lock tight. Said he was sure it would get me home but said I should really get a new crank. 20 k later still driving it but just locally. 2001 Civic with 346 k
Could you do a video on a Honda fit engine removal that would be wonderful 2017 is the year that I’m working on currently
Torch+bumping the started while having a breaker bar wedged on the a arm worked for me.
Eric-
I've never had a problem with the aftermarket tool, in almost 20 years of garage timing belt changes. 2 good 1/2" breakers and maybe a short cheater, and they always come off.I guess I'm lucky, living near Chicago. 'Patina' is a way of life.
I've never liked using impacts on the crank of a Honda motor. The bearings are all kinda on the small side (duh, small motors need small bearings) but if you can spare the 5-10 minutes to do it by hand, it seems much safer for the motor. No?
If you’re using an impact with socket method, do you not need the Honda tool for holding the crank in place? I’m worried it’s going to try spinning counter clockwise and throw off the timing
Harbor Freight 1/2 corded Item#64120 1050 lbs breakaway $109.99 works surprising well. Very cost effective using the thick socket. IR makes great guns, I had an IR231 everyone in the shop used at one time or another. The HF gun for the weekend warriors, BTW
Thanks for all the videos Eric,,,,,,
Do the Honda 3.5. Not so easy. I don't know if it's been over torqued with an impact wrench or it's just the nature of the beast, but those are always a problem, it seems.
Don't be fooled. The car Eric used in this video is a 2004 Civic with a timing belt. This is likely not the first timing belt done on that vehicle, so that bolt has been pulled before. Try that same impact on say.... a Honda 2.4L which has a timing chain and a crank bolt which has never been pulled before. Guarantee you, Eric would be hammerin away for an hour in vain with that thing. I used a Brand new Dewalt DCF900 with a Harbor Freight 19" impact socket on one couldn't pull it...and that impact is a beast with 1400 lbs of breakaway torque. Sent off for the Lisle crank pulley socket which weighs almost 2 lbs. Waiting on it now.
Snap-on's SHN36 breaker bar is a pricey but very effective tool to have. I bought it for passenger jets' igniter plug/bore scope plug removal purpose.
I think most air impact setups don't have enough air flow with 1/4 fittings, 3/8 air hose that is too long. Most videos have anemic sounding air impacts.
My setup is Ingersoll Rand 2135TIMAX on regular impact socket, with 50' long, 1/2 diameter hose, 3/8" quick connect HF fitting. I set my 30 gallon air compressor to 120 PSI static. I broke my 2007 Accord 2.4L crank bolt loose to replace rusty oil pan. It took around 3 seconds. To verify it wasn't a fluke, I tried on my Mom's 07 Accord 2.4L. Same thing.
Eric, I suspect the reason your impact gun worked unexpectedly was because the last person to tighten it didn't torque it to specs. In other words it was probably loose, not falling off loose but not that tight.
My question is : is it true that you are not supposed to tighten the pully bolt with an impact? Can that do damage to the engine?
I was going to say 6 months to late for me but i used an air impact it did not even touch it the reason being was someone before me had lost the woodruff key and hence tightened the hell out of it. What I done in the end was put piston 1 to BDC on compression stroke and put some rope in the bore this locked off the engine when I turned the crank to loosen the bolt to do it I needed a scaffold pole to break it loose. Put a new woodruff key timing belt and water pump and done.
+Steven Watson YOu did it right. Rope in the cylinder? Brilliant! It's also a way to "remove valves" without taking the cylinder head off. I guess you'd have to drop the pistons. I don't see how you'd reinstall, lol.
Seriously, I don't see how that's helpful information, lol. I was taught you could do that and I wonder why one would ever want to.
Now how do u rotate so it goes in timing ? U rotate through the 19mm bolt ? Or using the tool ? I know you were clockwise
Hi Eric, I ended up braking the hex on the harmonic balancer. Will I have trouble if I just replace the broken balancer or do I need to replace the balancer???
Hi what is the breaker bar attachment for a holder handle you mentioned? I see I can take off the bolt with a lisle harmonic balancer but am wondering how I could torque back to proper specs without a holder handle. Don't want to spend 120 on one for a one time use.
Do you need that special pulley tool when torquing it to spec, since you can’t do that with the impact?
That IR impact gun looks similar than my wurth DSS premium which should have 1100nm torque opening.. It is quite nice tool i have to say. I use same pressure, approx 8bar.
You impact is a beast mine broke two holder tools before it broke it.
Usually air is your best bet since those Civic crank pulley bolts can really be on there good. If you don't have air, then you can use the brakes (put it in gear and have a friend hold the brakes), try to hold the flywheel centered with a screwdriver through the hole (forgot which hole it was), which I wouldn't recommend as you can chip a tooth, or lastly, buy the LITTLE crank pulley tool (just the end piece). Think that last one is the best bet after all the Hondas I've seen/done.
Ok. Got that loosened. How about when you put it back on? Torque? Don't use still have to somehow hold the crankshaft and still need that holding tool?
Do you need to get anything realigned when you take the pulley off or you can throw it back on an be good
Hi Sir. Eric.i have issue with my civic 96 crankshaft.my car mechanic told me to replace the half block for the reason the the thread inside are damaged. Is it advice to replace the half block completely? Or is there any option ?
kindly advice.Thank you.
Eric, have you ran across an Accord with a major oil leak seeming to come from directly behind the crank pulley? Any help will be appreciated. Thx!
There's a crankshaft seal there. Looks like you need a new one.
Do you have a video showing the steps on how to replaced crankshaft seal? On a civic.?
Is it recommended to replace the factory crank pulley with a quality aftermarket light weight aluminum crank pulley in order to reduce engine drag and get the most of it's performance? Will it cause any component damage?
I just removed one the other day with a milwaukee m18 fuel high torque impact gun. Not cheap but also works nicely on this applicatiom
And prolly needs 12cfm to do it.
Use the heavy duty impact socket from Lisle and that IR impact. You don’t need to hold the pulley. You got lucky with that deep impact socket!
the best tool for those insanely tight bolts is a socket made by Lisle. part number LIS77080.
works with nearly any air gun and even some battery powered impact.
Eric I follow your channel for a long time and I also like a lot of your videos. But today I'm sure someone before you had unscrewed and then not tightened to the correct torque. It was very easy with the air gun.
Hey, I recently bought a 1996 Es300 w/ 68,000 miles on it. The recent driver barely drove the car and left it without being driven sometimes but always maintenanced the crap out of it at the Lexus Dealership. Since Ive had it, every 3-6 days the car has a somewhat almost nasty sound AFTER it starts up(some clunking sounds that doesnt sound good), but then it goes away after a few seconds. This time the horrible sounds started after I finished starting the car, it made the same noise that I was talking about then the engine shut off. The car kept turning off after I barely started it until I got lucky enough to have enough time to put the car into drive and quickly start driving it and then the problem goes away and car drives normally. I drive it every day and this happens whether the engine is warm or not and I am predicting it will happen in a few days. What do you think this is and to diagnose it?
Btw thank you for answering my last question. I appreciate every good that you do for us here on youtube.
Great video, thanks... Do I buy a new bolt after taking it off???
Nah better get whole new engine , kidding just reuse it
Hi! A great video as always! Thanks a lot. A small question on a side - I've wanted to see your article on the timing belt replacement, but you site shows error 403 and tells me my location is blocked.
After torching, solvents and torquing with cheater pipes and breaking extensions I'm sold on the battery impact wrench. My neighbor said, "Oh, I have one of those drivers." The 18V Milwaukee Fuel broke that LITTLE bolt out like it was 10mm.
I split my lip trying to break that loose. I broke two 1/2 inch snap-on breaker bars after putting it in 5th gear and jamming the passenger side lugs with a pry bar against the ground, and then I tried a 3/4 inch breaker bar and ended up bending the pry bar on the passenger side. So I tried the starter trick. " Putting the breaker bar against the frame and just bumping the starter" but unfortunately the bolt was right hand threaded and the motor was counter clockwise so the starter trick would have just tightened it more. So I left the breaker bar on and put it against the frame, got in the car and pushed it backwards with my feet which was easy to do because the drive way was level, I got it going pretty good, put it in 1st gear, dumped the clutch and the car suddenly stopped and I hit my mouth on the steering wheel which gave me the split lip lol. I tried it a couple more times and finally got it on the third try :)
Wow thats crazy! Never get tired of hearing peoples stories of these infamous bolts. Hopefully I never encounter one!
Hey Eric. I'm working on my 94 Accord and I can't seem to get my crank bolt off. I've tried practically everything form the special tools with the breaker bar to a special impact socket make by Lisle on an impact wretch. I don't know what else to do. Seeoing professional help and advice. Have you ever seen a honda crank bolt that is reverse thread? Or do you think that this could be because someone probably used too much "lock tight". What do you think i should do if I can't get it off? Please get back to me in this 🙏 😭
Once this crank pulley is done does that mean the motor is to? Might sound slow but was wondering cause my civic gave me so many problem don’t feel it’s worth fixing
Hi Eric I see these video is from back in 2016
you should check out the Ingersoll-Rand 19 mm “power socket”
they take off Honda crank bolts with electric impact check it out...... Well worth the 50 bucks
This is one of those things that I will probably never use, but it's handy to know incase I ever need to
Is it safe to do the ol key bump trick or not....you know where u secure a ratchet on bolt and slightly turn key n let motor turn over enough to break it loose??????
I GOT A 2002 HONDA CIVIC EX. I HAVE SPUN BEARING AND MY QUESTION IS CAN U GET ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE CRANK SHAFT WITH OUT TAKING THE MOTOR OUT. NOW I UNDERSTAND IT WOULD BE EASEIR TO TAKE THE MOTOR OUT I JUST DONT HAVE ENGINE PULLER OR WHAT EVER U CALL THEM THINGS OR THE MONEY
Eric, do you think it's important to use a 6-pointed socket instead of a 12-point if someone is going the breaker bar route? On my '91 Integra It took a breaker bar taller than the car and my full body weight to crack it!
Hey Eric I am in the process of removing this bolt on my Honda but it’s broken in half down the threads
The easiest way for me is secure the bar against the sub frame and quickly turn the key on and off.
Lmao so what did you manage to break tho?
@@BialyOrzel777 lol,.... the crank pulley bolt. before i did that i tried using 2 impact wrenches with no success. i bought a crank pulley holder from autozon that sheet broke.
@@qrs3658 yooooooo that way Worked it took couple tries, also my Mechanic friend advised me that... i thought it was a joke.... but No , it it the best way to get it loose , breaker bar and good 19 mm socket against subframe and quick on off .... boooooommmmm
Gotta get the Honda crank pulley socket from Lisle or Matco. Works like a charm!!!
Got mine off with a battery powered harbor freight earthquake half inch impact gun. $275
I’m working on a 1998 Honda Accord can you reuse the crank balancer bolt. I feel like someone told me in passing that you can’t reuse them?
I did an '88 Accord a few years back that was so bad a 3/4 drive impact wouldn't get it out. I ended up having to drill a hole in the center of the bolt and keep stepping up to larger and larger drill bits until it finally came out.
You should leave a link to the tool that honestly makes this job easy and that’s the lift there are many ways to get it off when you have a lift
good job Eric I couldn't use the video like 3 weeks ago lol but it will help on the next one thanks two thumbs up
Really need help with this car Mazda 3. I spend 3 days trying to get the crankshaft pulley bolt out. Used everything you could imagine. Went to a shop they used their impact gun it did not remove it. I went back home and start applying penetrating oil for the next 48 hr whenever I get out. The following day I tried the bump start method that was not working and it unbolt the pulley bolt. I was able to remove everything and start installing a new timing chain. At this point when I was trying to get to TDC when rotating the Crankshaft clockwise it will go like 300 degree and does not let me align the special too and the counterweight. It turn counter clockwise and get stuck too before I can reach TDC. I Tried manually to rotate but it make a hitting sound Metal vs Metal. I turned clockwise until it stopped maybe 5 degree before TDC. (It is still stuck) I reassemble everything the pulley and all the car components. I tried to rotate the crankshaft clockwise and it it still stuck before completing a complete circle. I tried to crank the car and it does not turn on( something is preventing the crank to rotate feely).
Initially I decided to change the timing chain because I had the code P0012 and P011 at the same time or P0012 always.
so what happened?
What’s the holding tool used to loosen the crank pulley to take the timing belt off? The hexagon with a hole in it (:
real tool reviews did a review of a giant impact socket made for honda crank bolts and it looked like a good concept, took a crank bolt off with an 18v impact, cant remember who made maybe lisle or otc
+deafening silence Lisle LIS77080
eric when are you going to a video on a honda accord timming belt and water pump
+pedro rodriguez This is also linked in the description. www.ericthecarguy.com/1990-2002-honda-f-series-timing-belt-replacement-vmanual
you read my friggin mind... I'm doing head gasket, t-belt and water pump on an 01 civic 1.7l. saw this video after I went and borrowed the tool from Oreillys...
What size impact it that?
Been trying to remove since 8am till right now 1pm
I remember the first time I had to remove a crank bolt I had no special tools or even an impact to come by. I ended up deliberately locking the crankshaft by putting a brick on the brake pedal and sticking it in 5th gear. An ordinary breaker bar and socket worked fine at that point. Desperate times = desperate measures and I was literally using the brake pads to push off of that day.
More info on that Accord EX in the background! NO rust on the rear quarter..rare find.
Have you ever used the earthquake impact that harbor freight sells?
+Timothy Lingo Yes, and it's extreme value for the money. Not an I-R or an Aircat but for $80 it's the best deal for the price.
+Timothy Lingo I used their cheapest electric impact driver to remove the crank bolt on my '89 Prelude. It's the only thing I bought it for, and aside from convenience of removing lug nuts, the only thing I've needed it for since. Worth the $40 or whatever I paid.
+Timothy Lingo I've been using it for years. Still going strong. Using cheap air tool oil almost took it out! Matco air tool oil got it working perfect again. I felt the seal in the trigger going until that reconditioned it to better function than new. :)
+SATAMAN Schmidt Been a while since I've talked to you. How have you been old friend? I've started making automotive repair videos too. Thus, adding the "AutoBravado" nickname as that's the name I've written about 75 articles over the years online. :)
+DE “AutoBravado” Nichols I use marvel mystery oil in mine. Haven't had any issues yet. I've had mine for about 6 years.
Do you spin it clockwise or counter clockwise ?
Left to loosen and right to tighten
What's the average torque spec for those crank bolts on Accords and Civics? I usually just add some blue thread locker, hand spin it in and then hit that bolt with my 1/2 impact on max power.
Is it left to loosen or right? I’ve snapped two extensions trying left.
01 honda civic lx. 1.7 liter sohc non vtec. To loosen the crank bolt, lefty loose? I heard it might be clockwise to remove. Is that true?
Just let the starter motor do the work. Jam the breaker bar under the chassis or suspension, and turn the engine over with the starter (obviously disconnect the coils). It will pop the crank bolt right off. Done this many times.
Last Honda timing belt I did I had to borrow 3/4" impact gun with 1800 lb.ft of reverse torque. Not a single 1/2" gun didnt open that bolt. 850+ lb.ft did absolutely nothing. Sometimes they are like welded in Hondas.
+JokariX Exactly. I've been there myself. Actually, I wasn't expecting my impact to work as well as it did and I would have to show using the special tool instead.
+EricTheCarGuy Eric: do you know the grade rating on the bolt? Is it a 12.9?
+Garth Goldberg No, sorry I don't.
I've been reading from the "experts" in the TH-cam comment section saying dont use a impact gun on crank pulleys bc it will damage the bearings. Any truth behind this?
No truth to it at all. Imagine how much extra time the Honda/Acura techs would need for 100K mile services if only hand tools were allowed. That and the fact that millions of Honda engines are still running fine after decades of crank bolts being removed this way. Don't let the armchair "techs" stress you out, and good luck :)
im 20 years old and i was replacing a new water pump in my 2004 Honda Civic engine this was my 1st time doing it but sad thingi bend valve and i and i just get it right this time
My Dewalt DCF899 can smash these off easy. I've already done it on my accord and my sisters civic. No need for the special tool!
So if I am trying to remove the crank bolt on a V6 model, which way do I turn the bolt to loosen it off? Is it still ccw or cw?