Actually if that’s steel (which it looks like) it wouldn’t weld to aluminum (which seems to be the print surface) so after it cools a few hits with a hammer and chisel should pry it off
Electric is for Industry so cheap...so its nothing... like some cents... ^^ meanwhile... the weldmaterial and the gas... also the time wasted on a cnc ... hard to explain .. cool but yea
man keep this stuff coming, These are the techs we need the most now, simple stupid and available. This crazy metal powder printers are no good for mainstream use.
Well, it depends. If you want delicate geometries, I don't think you can do that with a CNC. Really, they are just making a piece of specially-shaped rough stock.
@@vincentguttmann2231 I mean.. How delicate do you want? If you're making something out of steel, delicate probably wasn't in the design brief.... But even so, you can just keep putting smaller ball-end mill bits in there and doing more passes. If you were prepared to put all the extra hours into the part, you could keep doing finish passes all the way down to an engraving bit. Still. I'm as curious as everyone else as to how they plan to get it off their build platter. :D
Yup, glue stick works a treat for me. When you're done, just spray it with some water and re-spread the glue with your fingers, all while the heated bed is still at temperature. Just watch out to not use too much, or else you will have to soak your bed and print in water over night.
Could you please specify what kind of material was used in this video? Also, what was the actual build-up time? What temperature do you cool substrates to before adding the next layer? At work, we use a WAAM technique to make Al (at the moment) parts, so I am asking out of curiosity and to share some experience.
IIRC, the welds can be stronger so there is some interest as whether this process could be used to make hard wearing surfaces but yes, if any old metal will do...
@@noonecz5201 True, my CR10 is about 250 watts. I'm not sure what the largest size in diameter MIG wire you can get, maybe 1mm? Which might cut down your print time by half or more, but what is the wattage??? Assuming a MIG pulls 16 amps (you can get more power hungry ones) at 230 volts, using ohms law gives us 14.375 ohms of resistance. I2R then gives us 3,680 watts. (This is apparent power and does not take into account inductive and capacitive reactance to give us a true power figure, but we started with a hypothetical so?...). How long does the average print time take? Say 3 hours being very generous... My CR10 consumes 1500 watts (in twice that time at full power). Our hypothetical eco MIG consumes 11,040 watts. So this might get expensive and failed prints are going to be especially costly. And the non of this takes into account the milling process that has to be done to the rough shape and its electrical consumption.
possible ways of upgrading: - gas chamber - layer made entirely to help cutting the piece from the printbed. think about the inner perimeter of an arc (like a "viaduc" an old type of water conveyer) - something to flatten the bed after cutting the thin pillar layout.
Do you think that they wouldn't have taken that into consideration? I was more worried about print bed warping because print adhesion is too high, like with some PETGs.
Yeah this makes me want to try hooking up the MIG welder to the 3D printer but its a crappy little 1970s 110v machine with a low duty cycle (that I've hit many times on even small projects). Thankfully it has a thermal shutdown.
@@ShcherbynaM I worked in a lab with a metal printer and this is the correct answer. Use a band saw to remove the part then mill the build plate for reuse.
It's no different than having a welder buildup metal by stacking beads before sending it to a machinist to finish the part. If the settings are dialed incorrectly (based on the material properties), having a computer do the work (vs a human welder), the quality and repeatability would be just as good (if not better) than having a master welder perform the work.
@@artrock8175 Problem is that the process might have weak points in it because of the grains of the metal and possible porosity because of the welding, even if done by a machine. I take it from my experience working in a CNC machine shop, machines are stupid and automation isn't always that good.
Nice job 👍 Is it possible to switch automatically between welding and milling ? I mean weld several layers then Mille them , welding again and so one . By this way undercut shape can be generates !
Rly cool! Have you tried to make a tool change every “layer”? This way more complex geometries should be possible. But I guess “overhangs” are not possible at all, right?
Tilt the table or printhead / bit It's limited but allows significantly more control for over hangs you have to go with electrolytes solutions and alout slower
@@cornnatron3030 that doesn't really jive my friend. What would be the point in printing the top section just to have to mill off a huge chunk from the underside that was never meant to be part of the print? If you were to mill away that entire chunk it's sitting on printing on it's surface would be a complete waste of time. You would just add on the small bit that doesn't fit within that block and use the entire chunk to mill from. Printing your entire stock on top makes no sense. Unless you had a way to remove it while preserving the base block you're wasting time and a whole lot of power. I won't even get into the structural integrity of a solid block of weld versus a forged block. This whole concept looks amazing but it seems pretty useless when you think about it. Provided you don't have a massive lathe to Chuck that into and the worlds biggest parting tool. 😂
This is actually a really good idea, it would be way cheaper and possibly quicker, depending on the shape, to do this instead of using like a solid block of whatever material.
I could imagine this in the corner of a repair shop used to make 4 or 5 things a year worth it. Instant access to a part and no skills required to create. Time and limited production application for this. I could see it.
@@davesnothere8859 you can probably throw away the print platten afterwards, actually it's welded not printed... cannot imagine, that it'll be usefull for anything
@@sexyfacenation I'm aware of metal 3D printing. That's extruding actual steel, not entirely made out of welding material. Still, I'd be concerned about the layers potentially sheering since they're all in one plane like the grain on a plank of wood.
super cool. if it could swap between adding and subtracting for every layer you could do true precision 3D metal printing with internal and external fine tolerances.
It's a pity with objects tapering to the base this will not work. I suppose for a TOR print you should print 3 thin columns (anchors) higher than the highest point, then turn the structure over by placing the anchors in the same places and continue printing the one below the waterline. 👍
Wow this has potential, what if you lower the volume, or infill rather, and what if you have another axis of movement, maybe some cool stuff could be made, maybe using a robot arm, who knows, plastic needs time to cool and a fan and all that stuff and isn't a viable material in a lot of applications, but big cnc welding machines could be very useful
Plasma/Acetylen or HHO cutter maybe other idea would be first print or realtive thin baseplate, and use Vacuum or electromagnetic system for the holding force (in the center) and 4 clamps on the corners.
Ça peux être super pour fabriquer des blocs moteurs sans moule en sable ! En faisant de la soudure puis de la cnc puis à nouveau de la soudure par dessus, le seul problème serait la gravure du dessus intérieur des pièces...
Question. What machining center did you use and were did you attach the welder to the spindle or what and how did you probe the bed do you have like a Renshaw and how did you manage your post prossing in the cam software relating specifically when switch from the additive [mig welding] to the subtractive [machining] and tips or trick to setting this up would be amazing.
@@ndcollins Great idea!! BUT! then I have to figure out how to hide the second house from her 🤦♂️. Maybe I hide it at your house so we can share it 😎👍
Divorce her an marry me coz I'd bloody luv a machine like that. I have a big ol lathe too I like to make all sorts from....... Only joking about divorce I am sure your good lady is gold.
Makes you wonder if this could be a serious benefit to companies...if machining an irregular part...could it be more beneficial to just weld up a boss on a $3k chunk of steel rather than buy a $4k-5k chunk of steel and mill 90 percent of it away. hmmmm...I guess ultimately it depends on the end use..dissimilar metal properties and opportunity for porosity might remove all possibility of its potential benefit unless heat treatment or coatings are done afterwards. Cool! Looks like lulzbots logo.
@@mrMara5a true, it would make sense if you had production runs to make of the part, but for one off stuff I think the cost to design and manufacture a mold is too high. Although, with 3D printing technology anymore you are probably correct..
I dont understand why this method isnt being used for plastic fdm printers. Huge nozzle head for quick build and a tiny end mill to clean up and get accurate edges and height.
Does the weld flatform need to be isolated from the table? Since from what I know, the welder can cause some mini weld spot inside the machine, as long as there's small enough gap between metal.
Se por algum motivo o cabo de aterramento se soltar, todo o sistema eletrônico da máquina sofrerá perda total. never weld anything on top of a CNC machine table
I don't think this technology is gonna work with support... unless they could find some heat resistant, water (or chemical) soluble material to be used as support and base plate.
That is beautiful, and a fantastic proof of concept! I would think with a three-axis mil it could be made absolutely perfect. All that said something similar could be cast out of metal for a tiny fraction of the cost and time. But we as humans are heading in the right direction 👍
Casting one example would probably be around the same cost, if you factor in the cost of milling a negativeand the metal price, but it realy depends on what you are welding with, and how you cast. the electric bill wont be that high for the 3d printer, only about €4 being on the high side.
Proof of what concept though?? We already have actaul metal 3d printers that are better in every way imaginable compared to this fancy welder on a cnc machine...
Gonna needs one hell of a spatula to scrape that print off the plate.
Did some one order a hydrodynamic spatula with port and starboard attachments and turbo drive?
You just need a wire EDM and it will pop right off. If you can pay that electric bill you can easily buy one .lol.
LMAO
@@NuclearTopSpot quality reply right here
@@Justin0620 i dont have enough fuses in my house for one....
Now sticking to the bed means a whole different issue.
XD
was my exact thoughts
Try getting this off with a scraper 🤣
so . . . don't fall asleep on the wet spot.
I figure that ones the metal cools down, the print will release by itself.
And other people complain that they have huge problems when they try to remove their 3D-prints from the print plate...
Sometimes that shit might just as well be welded on lol, but yeah- good shout!
aahahahaha you won!
A little glue stick and it pops right off.
Actually if that’s steel (which it looks like) it wouldn’t weld to aluminum (which seems to be the print surface) so after it cools a few hits with a hammer and chisel should pry it off
@@mizery95 I actually thought of that but I'm not really sure. It would make sense though.
Electric bill: YES
😆
Ha ha ha
Exactly my thoughts
electric meter go brrr
And don't forget a few miles worth of TIG wire and the protection gas. Casting from gold might be more economic.
Electric is for Industry so cheap...so its nothing... like some cents... ^^ meanwhile... the weldmaterial and the gas... also the time wasted on a cnc
... hard to explain .. cool but yea
Your mill now has an undo button.
It's always been the undo button
man keep this stuff coming, These are the techs we need the most now, simple stupid and available. This crazy metal powder printers are no good for mainstream use.
Well, it depends. If you want delicate geometries, I don't think you can do that with a CNC. Really, they are just making a piece of specially-shaped rough stock.
@@vincentguttmann2231 Check Daishin crown (as a quick example). Idk bout you but thats already pretty detailed (more than this octopus)
@@vincentguttmann2231 I mean.. How delicate do you want? If you're making something out of steel, delicate probably wasn't in the design brief.... But even so, you can just keep putting smaller ball-end mill bits in there and doing more passes. If you were prepared to put all the extra hours into the part, you could keep doing finish passes all the way down to an engraving bit. Still. I'm as curious as everyone else as to how they plan to get it off their build platter. :D
mig welders have been around since 1948 CNC machines have been around since 1958
@@vincentguttmann2231 I think a complex design is a better example. Like trying to print the exhaust side of a turbo.
Now just fold the build surface and the print pops off.
So you buy a new printbed every time? I usually just slightly bend it...
@@mick0matic r/woosh
“Metal printing attachment”
It’s a freaking MIG welder.
Ah yes the original metal 3d pen
eh, a plastic 3d printer is a glorified hot glue gun. if it works, it works.
@@zachbrown7272 by that logic humans are also 'glorified hot glue guns' put substance in the top, a softer version comes out at the bottom
@@butwait I mean early hobbyist FDM 3d printers literally used hot glue gun parts, but I do not see any flaws in your logic.
@@butwait Love humans. Hilarious and nutritious.
What an amazing machine! This really gets my motor running and makes me look forward towards the future.
Do you use Glue Stick ?
I prefer to put down gaffers tape so it doesn't stick as much as painters tape but holds better.
Yup, glue stick works a treat for me. When you're done, just spray it with some water and re-spread the glue with your fingers, all while the heated bed is still at temperature. Just watch out to not use too much, or else you will have to soak your bed and print in water over night.
TH-cam Algorithm : Wanna see some videos from 2 years ago ...
ME: Thanks!
So what if it's 2 years ago?
@@sepg5084 ummm making a joke at the expense of the algorithm ...... calm down lol ffs take your meds
Could you please specify what kind of material was used in this video? Also, what was the actual build-up time? What temperature do you cool substrates to before adding the next layer? At work, we use a WAAM technique to make Al (at the moment) parts, so I am asking out of curiosity and to share some experience.
Isn't it much cheaper and faster to grab a lump of metal and cnc mill it directly?
IIRC, the welds can be stronger so there is some interest as whether this process could be used to make hard wearing surfaces but yes, if any old metal will do...
Did you use a glue stick on the bed? Also what filament is this, i like the finish
Old anti-piracy ad: "you wouldn't illegally download a car"
This guy:
Cool, but I imagine running the MIG for the same length of time as some of my 3d prints will be incredibly expensive.
Yeah but the thing is that this doesn't print with 0.4 nozzle :D
@@noonecz5201 bruh, the post is 8 months old.
@@rhyswoolcott And?
@@noonecz5201 True, my CR10 is about 250 watts. I'm not sure what the largest size in diameter MIG wire you can get, maybe 1mm? Which might cut down your print time by half or more, but what is the wattage???
Assuming a MIG pulls 16 amps (you can get more power hungry ones) at 230 volts, using ohms law gives us 14.375 ohms of resistance. I2R then gives us 3,680 watts. (This is apparent power and does not take into account inductive and capacitive reactance to give us a true power figure, but we started with a hypothetical so?...). How long does the average print time take? Say 3 hours being very generous... My CR10 consumes 1500 watts (in twice that time at full power). Our hypothetical eco MIG consumes 11,040 watts. So this might get expensive and failed prints are going to be especially costly. And the non of this takes into account the milling process that has to be done to the rough shape and its electrical consumption.
@@burtybasset4486 You mean 11,040 watt-hours?
the welded octopus looked better(more natural xD) without milling
Did they test the benchy boat ? i think no.
I guess I could use this to fill in the gouges the operator made in the table from not setting offsets correctly.
AWESOME!
How do you remove it from the base metal slab?
This deserves so many more views
That was exactly my question… How do you get it off the print bed?! 😑😑😑
possible ways of upgrading:
- gas chamber
- layer made entirely to help cutting the piece from the printbed. think about the inner perimeter of an arc (like a "viaduc" an old type of water conveyer)
- something to flatten the bed after cutting the thin pillar layout.
What's difference with the conventional CNC milling starting from a cylinder material except 'more chips'?
For the entirety of this video, I had two words in my head:
“Duty Cycle”
Do you think that they wouldn't have taken that into consideration? I was more worried about print bed warping because print adhesion is too high, like with some PETGs.
Yeah this makes me want to try hooking up the MIG welder to the 3D printer but its a crappy little 1970s 110v machine with a low duty cycle (that I've hit many times on even small projects). Thankfully it has a thermal shutdown.
It's a time lapse. Probably threw out the shots during the pauses to keep to video going
@you did what on video? 100% duty cycle is a pretty normal thing.
@@davesnothere8859 it really isn't though, talking some pretty expensive equipment for that.
what about breaking strength compared to classical manufacturing ?
That's awesome. That would save thousands of dollars from fixing mess ups right on the machine.
and how the f*ck you gonna take the octopus off from the print plate?
With hard work!
Band-saw
flip over and mill again... )))
@@maksguzz2147 It's too easy, you need to use a file to remove excess material. :)
@@ShcherbynaM I worked in a lab with a metal printer and this is the correct answer. Use a band saw to remove the part then mill the build plate for reuse.
It's cool to be able to do this, I just wonder how strong the material is after "print" and how viable it would be in practical applications.
Well SpaceX 3d prints their rocket engine parts...
I suppose it'd be down to the material. If it's all welded together, shit, might be a good as drop- forged
It's no different than having a welder buildup metal by stacking beads before sending it to a machinist to finish the part. If the settings are dialed incorrectly (based on the material properties), having a computer do the work (vs a human welder), the quality and repeatability would be just as good (if not better) than having a master welder perform the work.
@@artrock8175 Problem is that the process might have weak points in it because of the grains of the metal and possible porosity because of the welding, even if done by a machine. I take it from my experience working in a CNC machine shop, machines are stupid and automation isn't always that good.
@@deadredherring I can't argue with that! xD I personally wouldn't trust a structural part made in the way shown in the video.
Nice job 👍
Is it possible to switch automatically between welding and milling ?
I mean weld several layers then Mille them , welding again and so one .
By this way undercut shape can be generates !
Rly cool! Have you tried to make a tool change every “layer”? This way more complex geometries should be possible. But I guess “overhangs” are not possible at all, right?
Tilt the table or printhead / bit
It's limited but allows significantly more control for over hangs you have to go with electrolytes solutions and alout slower
Nice now how do you remove it from the print bed
you silly boy you flex the print bed off coarse lol
flip it upside down and mill off duh.
@@cornnatron3030 that doesn't really jive my friend. What would be the point in printing the top section just to have to mill off a huge chunk from the underside that was never meant to be part of the print? If you were to mill away that entire chunk it's sitting on printing on it's surface would be a complete waste of time. You would just add on the small bit that doesn't fit within that block and use the entire chunk to mill from. Printing your entire stock on top makes no sense. Unless you had a way to remove it while preserving the base block you're wasting time and a whole lot of power. I won't even get into the structural integrity of a solid block of weld versus a forged block. This whole concept looks amazing but it seems pretty useless when you think about it.
Provided you don't have a massive lathe to Chuck that into and the worlds biggest parting tool. 😂
@@cornnatron3030 or even use a bandsaw... and then clean the table with the cnc.. and reuse it again with slightly lower table
how long did it take to print and then machine? The only limit is your imajination !
This is actually a really good idea, it would be way cheaper and possibly quicker, depending on the shape, to do this instead of using like a solid block of whatever material.
Now that's what I call metal 3d printing. Need to build one of these ASAP!
Hi yes, I'd like one metal octopus for inconspicuous reasons please?
This guy: ok it will be done tomorrow
*tomorrow*
That'll be $15,450.
I could imagine this in the corner of a repair shop used to make 4 or 5 things a year worth it. Instant access to a part and no skills required to create. Time and limited production application for this. I could see it.
@@davesnothere8859 I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that anything 100% made out of welding material isn't recommended for anything integral.
@@pseudonymous1382 there a company in Australia that uses it to make ship propellers. Aml3d
@@davesnothere8859 you can probably throw away the print platten afterwards, actually it's welded not printed... cannot imagine, that it'll be usefull for anything
@@sexyfacenation I'm aware of metal 3D printing. That's extruding actual steel, not entirely made out of welding material. Still, I'd be concerned about the layers potentially sheering since they're all in one plane like the grain on a plank of wood.
Can’t think what use an octopus can be used for?
That is the most amazing thing I have seen in a long time !!!
bonus points if you use the cnc mill to completely remove the print and then start again
super cool. if it could swap between adding and subtracting for every layer you could do true precision 3D metal printing with internal and external fine tolerances.
you would need to predict deformation due to heat. and model your maching in to that if you want to hit fine tolerances
Okay. Can't it be done with a big chunk of metal and a cnc Carver at the first place? Instead for welding on a metal and carving it again?
It's a pity with objects tapering to the base this will not work. I suppose for a TOR print you should print 3 thin columns (anchors) higher than the highest point, then turn the structure over by placing the anchors in the same places and continue printing the one below the waterline. 👍
using mig welding, combined with cnc, work just like 3d printing machine, that nice and idea, more look like DIY.
laser sintering is 10x better tech
pls provide movie, when you take it off the plate.
Imagine doing this by hand with a tig welder and a Bridgeport mill
I've seen a guy make a replica of the statue of liberty im sure given enough time it can be done.
not even want to imagine that :-))
Imagine grabbing a Hot glue gun and speed-Printing a benchy by Hand
i dont think it really needed infill but looks awsome.
Wow this has potential, what if you lower the volume, or infill rather, and what if you have another axis of movement, maybe some cool stuff could be made, maybe using a robot arm, who knows, plastic needs time to cool and a fan and all that stuff and isn't a viable material in a lot of applications, but big cnc welding machines could be very useful
How do you get the model off the bed? Lol
You don't
Plasma/Acetylen or HHO cutter maybe
other idea would be first print or realtive thin baseplate, and use Vacuum or electromagnetic system for the holding force (in the center) and 4 clamps on the corners.
put wax/ grease on the bed
Wire EDM
Just rotate the plate across X or Y axis and use band-saw
What is the music in the video?
The right eye of the octopus doesn't look good, but I guess that is an issue with the CNC machine having only a vertical milling bit.
Yes, if only they use 5 axis CNC machine
Cant wait to buy me one of those and print a brand new FGC2!
How many spools of wire did you go through lol
Where did the head come from?
This is just a plain old MIG gun, nothing more
I can imagine endless use of this machine.
Just make ur own tools.
They use an EDM to cut the print off the plate if anyone is wondering
I want one.. It looks like a MIG welder attachment building it up.. What was the cycle time, complete ?
Ça peux être super pour fabriquer des blocs moteurs sans moule en sable ! En faisant de la soudure puis de la cnc puis à nouveau de la soudure par dessus, le seul problème serait la gravure du dessus intérieur des pièces...
How is the porosity and what alloys can it print in?
Assuming this is based off a TIG welder- no porosity (when done properly), and pretty much any alloy you can get the wire feed for.
Question. What machining center did you use and were did you attach the welder to the spindle or what and how did you probe the bed do you have like a Renshaw and how did you manage your post prossing in the cam software relating specifically when switch from the additive [mig welding] to the subtractive [machining] and tips or trick to setting this up would be amazing.
I liked it just as well with the lumps
How long did that take?
I need it!! I just have to figure out how to hide it from my wife🤔🤫
Second house?
@@ndcollins Great idea!! BUT! then I have to figure out how to hide the second house from her 🤦♂️. Maybe I hide it at your house so we can share it 😎👍
@@jggraphx or get a storage unit with electrical hookups :-)
Simp, be a man and own the house.
Divorce her an marry me coz I'd bloody luv a machine like that. I have a big ol lathe too I like to make all sorts from....... Only joking about divorce I am sure your good lady is gold.
how many times to weld and machine?
That's an interesting concept, good job!
Where is this
the future is bright, that is if we can keep the planet alive long enough to have a future
Metal printing or deposition ?
now how the f do you get it off the bed?
Why does it need to be solid? I thought the whole idea behind 3D was weight savings
Did you use gas?
But how do you get it off?
Makes you wonder if this could be a serious benefit to companies...if machining an irregular part...could it be more beneficial to just weld up a boss on a $3k chunk of steel rather than buy a $4k-5k chunk of steel and mill 90 percent of it away. hmmmm...I guess ultimately it depends on the end use..dissimilar metal properties and opportunity for porosity might remove all possibility of its potential benefit unless heat treatment or coatings are done afterwards. Cool! Looks like lulzbots logo.
If you want to do something like this and cannot weld simple parts together then you simply cast it.
@@mrMara5a true, it would make sense if you had production runs to make of the part, but for one off stuff I think the cost to design and manufacture a mold is too high. Although, with 3D printing technology anymore you are probably correct..
This already exists, check out the DMG MORI lasertec 65 hybrid
I need a welding mask to watch this. Cool video thank you
Good god all those angles..thats a lot of programming. ...!
The video editing was annoying to watch but the tech is cool. How many different pan screens do you need for a 3 minute video
I dont understand why this method isnt being used for plastic fdm printers. Huge nozzle head for quick build and a tiny end mill to clean up and get accurate edges and height.
I like how it dosent show them getting the build off the plate as if it ur problem
Parece solda??
Does the weld flatform need to be isolated from the table? Since from what I know, the welder can cause some mini weld spot inside the machine, as long as there's small enough gap between metal.
Se por algum motivo o cabo de aterramento se soltar, todo o sistema eletrônico da máquina sofrerá perda total. never weld anything on top of a CNC machine table
I'm new to 3-D printing world I need help to thing a metal 3-D printer affordable
Cool Thought of that once could’ve used 10% infill would use less wire and weight a ton less.
or you could print gears in place and made it articulated. this is really a start not a finished idea.
Wow this is amazing. I want to build one
How do you get it off?
interesting, how supports looks like
I don't think this technology is gonna work with support... unless they could find some heat resistant, water (or chemical) soluble material to be used as support and base plate.
Putting this on a 4 or 5 axis machine would be amazing
Banana for scale next time please. Nice add-on by the way.
WOW that is great. Well done !
so a tall weld?
That is beautiful, and a fantastic proof of concept! I would think with a three-axis mil it could be made absolutely perfect. All that said something similar could be cast out of metal for a tiny fraction of the cost and time. But we as humans are heading in the right direction 👍
Casting one example would probably be around the same cost, if you factor in the cost of milling a negativeand the metal price, but it realy depends on what you are welding with, and how you cast. the electric bill wont be that high for the 3d printer, only about €4 being on the high side.
Proof of what concept though?? We already have actaul metal 3d printers that are better in every way imaginable compared to this fancy welder on a cnc machine...
Beautiful. This kind of metal 3D printing makes much more sense to me than the kind you have to bake later and it shrinks.
I had this idea a while ago, I was talking to my boy about it.
@MichaelKingsfordGray
What?
Excellent. Ever heard of casting? 😁
I want it, where to buy and how much the price
Vanargand Aaaaahahahahahah just made my day!
Should have used some 3D Lac. Seriously Awesome.
Sad that you can't do overhangs :(
With a five-axis machine, you can. You can even weld upside down, though with some challenges.
Как его оторвать теперь?
Welding on CNC can cause flash beads on components - unless correctly earthed ?
Hail Hybrid! 🐙
How to remove from the base plate?
You don't.