Morgan, I have a tip for next time. Wipe the 3d print piece with a thin layer of Vaseline and it will come out of the mold much much easier. A very thin layer so it doesn't effect details. Brush it on and wipe it off. Also you can put the Vaseline on the back of your cured mold which will allow you to pour the other half of the mold and have the two halves not stick to each other so they can be peeled apart fairly easily.
A good source of plastic corrugated material is to collect campaign signs after elections that you can then cut up for re-use and keep out of the waste stream. I pick up a few every year from friends and family and use them for all sorts of craft projects.
Coming back and rewatching this after seeing some of your more recent videos, it's nice to see that "I'm going to make X in a way you're not technically supposed to, let's see what happens" has always been a part of your channel :-D
This is kind of a "When Fandoms Collide" thing. I love sewing, historical sewing, costuming. But I also have a weak spot for watching people make 3D prints. It's cool that you can combine new technology with more traditional techniques.
Yeah! I love learning how things were traditionally made, and experimenting with modern equipment at my disposal! I look forward to playing with 'Worbla' someday, to make something historically inspired!
It's kind of like the show "How It's Made". I love watching that, but sometimes I want to know How WAS It made, before robots, before computers, before electricity.
Try 3D printing in wax, then use lost wax process. Can do higher temperature metals - zinc alloys, aluminum, gold & silver. Or make a wax copy in the rubber mold, then use it in lost wax.
A lot of online videos show a centrifuge. Some use a vacuum (the plaster seems to be porous enough for the vacuum to suck the metal into smaller features. I just poured directly into the plaster, but it is poor on fine detail. Using a taller mold (3" high spru tube on a 1/2" cubical object) to increase the pressure seems to help as did getting the metal much hotter than just melting. I did zinc alloy at dull red glow.
14:14 "With this hand, I will lift your sorrows. Your cup will never empty, for I will be your wine. With this candle, I will light your way in the darkness. With this ring, I asl you to be mine" HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA this came to my head when you said "my cup is empty" :D
Thank you for showing this. Not only was it interesting to learn, but the blue stuff splattering made me laugh. Haven't been feeling fantastic the last couple days so thank you. Plus you sound an awful like like me when something doesn't go quite right, or cleanly, thank you for that as well.
two comments: gloves are a great way to avoid getting noxious chemicals on your hands :) Also, I've used packing tape over cardboard to mask mold boxes. Releases just fine.
Metal casting is so pretty, I want all the jeweley! The process is so fascinating I could watch it all day... (PS you were using too much hot glue, that's why it took so long to set)
I haven't seen anyone mention it but a really easy retaining wall, especially for this part, is a round plastic Dixie cup with the bottom cut out and the rounded top hot glued to a hard smooth surface.
I love it. Totally impatient to start the project but doesn't have all the required tools of materials. So quickly ransacks home in search of suitable, or almost suitable replacements. Yep, do that regularly. By the way, you just created the sewing equivalent of a mock up!
This may be an old video. BUT! I feel you on the "im just impatient" thing. Currently hand-sewing the hem of a chemise because i dont want to wait for my sewing machine to come back from the shop.
I have a project coming up where I'll be working with similar components. After searching for a bit, your video answered a few of my random questions that no one touched on. I appreciate it! Subbed- Thank you.
Hey! To quickly cool hot glue I always put it in the freezer lol its fast, and maybe you could have put a rubber band or string round the outside to keep the shape before you glued it it could help :>
Lol, there are so many things I could have done better with this project, I have gotten lots of great advice! Thank you for your hint about the freezer!
I’m so allergic to pewter. I wish I wasn’t. I just think it’s so pretty. These look totally cool and they were a great first try with you 3D printed plastic. I hope to see more pewter casting :)
I will almost certainly do more pewter projects! I typically do at least one a year, so I might be a few months before my next one. It's a bummer that you are allergic! I wish I had an alternative metal to recommend that also melts at such a low temperature that it's easy to do at home :/
Eh I’m allergic to everything. But it really is fun to watch you make this stuff. Do you plan on replicating any famous jewelry this way? That would be fun
Berkley Pearl have you ever found out what metals you are actually allergic to? Copper, antimony, bismuth, sometimes silver are added to tin to make non-lead pewter. A certain pink digestive system helper is a form of bismuth I thought, so I would guess antimony and nickel are the metals your body reacts to. Like my mom, my skin will just eat away at fake golds until the base metal is reached, but there's no bad issue from that. I think diet has a large play as well. Allergies are an extremely interesting topic to me.
Depending on the type of plastic that was used for the print, there are ways to smooth out the 3D print so that there isn't as much texturing on your pewter cast. If it's ABS, you can use acetone to smooth it out and remove some of the texturing.
for take the air out without a vacuum maybe you could do as when we bake a cake and you need to share even the filling, so knocking on the table the little box. hope i explain properly. English is not my first language, hello from Finland, I think it was very good result
I know this is a year later, but if you watch "Tips for Making Silicone Molds for Pewter Casting using Smooth-on Mold Max 60" by Jimmie Porter At Stuart Arts, he gives to really good tips!
It might be helpful when making silicone molds to coat your 3d printed parts in a thin layer of petroleum jelly before pouring silicone on them. I do a lot of silicone casting and I find it to be very very helpful against fairly rough 3d printed surfaces. Also, a vacuum chamber is a very useful tool. It's actually impressive how much air gets stuck in there. But it is important especially with certain silicones, not to leave it in too long as the vacuum can damage the silicone material.
I couldn't do the maths if my life depended on it. I want to expand into pewter at some point. I wonder, is there any reason why you didn't use silicone putty?
I strongly considered disassembling the cute little lego Minecraft house we were gifted for this project - but figured my husband wouldn't appreciate me messing with his things :D I should get some legos of my own!
I’m late to this video as I’ve only recently subscribed so you maybe already know this, but 3D molds can be filed and smoothed to show less texture before you cast a mold. Great video though!
Late to this video - but I have done similar - and realised after all the messing around with the casting box/ ,pouring spout, vents etc that I should have just 3d printed it all! Then just pour in the mould making material etc!
Sorry I'm (very) late. You can use 3d prints to make molds for silver but the silicone can't take the temperature. Treat them like a lost wax and use plaster.
Could you not have just cast it flat and not had a pour spout? Im just curious as to why you couldn't have poured the pewter onto an imprint style mold and not had to fuss with the pour spout.
Unfortunately Don, I don't know! I have not worked with lead, but I understand that it is supposed to be similar to tin and pewter. It's certainly worth experimenting with the find out!
I just eyeball the part B - not necessary to do detailed measurements. The amount you use just determines how fast it cures. Just leave enough part b for the part a you have left.
cheap suggestions..legos, Lincoln logs to make the silicone mold bases. however, i understand you wanted to do something right this minute and not have to go anywhere.
Adelaide Beeman-White Family lore goes that we are related to the Donner brother that stayed in the east and didn't travel west with his brothers. But who knows *shrug*
@@MorganDonner - That would be Tobias Verris Donner, born 3 Nov 1798 in Salem, Rowan, North Carolina; married Nancy Bettis; died 26 Aug 1853 in Menard, Illinois. A free account at FamilySearch.org might show you someone's already done the work that can link your paternal grandfather to Tobias. The work's definitely been done linking Tobias back several generations to Sebastian Tanner, born around 1489 in Bern, Switzerland, and Barbara Zwyer. Tanner became Danner in the mid 1500s. In the mid 1600s, the family relocated from Bern to the Grand Duchy of Baden, Mannheim, Baden-Wuerttemberg. It was Michael Danner Sr., born in 1696, who sailed from Rotterdam to Philadelphia with his wife Anna Marie Bend on the ship "James Goodwell" in 1727. He went on to survey the York Road, which linked York, Pennsylvania, to the port of Baltimore. With his sons Jacob and Henry, he also laid out the Monocacy Trail. In 1734, Michael was given the title "King's Commissioner of Highways, Pennsylvania." He named a number of locations in Pennsylvania after places he'd known in Baden-Wuerttemberg. Tobias is descended from Michael's surveyor son Jacob, who was born in 1727, the year his parents emigrated, in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. Jacob married Elizabeth Bechtel, became a pastor of Beaver Dam Church (Church of the Brethren) in Frederick County, Maryland, and died in 1799 in Brownsville, Maryland. It was Jacob's son George (born 27 Feb 1752 in Rowan, North Carolina; died 27 Jun 1844 in Sangamon, Macon, Illnois) who spelled the name Donner. Among the seven children of George Donner and Mary Margaret Huff were Tobias and Tobias's brothers who went west. All that's on the open web. A good starting point for the historical material: www.wikitree.com/genealogy/Donner-Family-Tree-52
You don't need a backing plate or that little funnel you made to pour the Pewter you were all set without it ,All you had to do was pour the Pewter on top of the mold !
As an architecture student who has made many models with card and a craft knife, for the love of god use a nice sharp blade and a cutting mat and a metal ruler!!! It will be so much safer and more successful!! Fascinating to see pewter though!
Good job I have one request can you ship this silicone to Egypt Cairo please. I can send money to buy silicone and send me because it is not available in Egypt please
Listen, I get that a lot of female TH-camrs use self-deprecating humor to seem more relatable but, honestly, hearing you put yourself down is _excruciating_ . Especially as many folks are trying to avoid negative self-talk for their own mental health, I would ask you to please consider trying not to model that behavior during your tutorials, especially since your experiments are always in fact phenomenal and the point is largely to inspire anyway, right?
Morgan, I have a tip for next time. Wipe the 3d print piece with a thin layer of Vaseline and it will come out of the mold much much easier. A very thin layer so it doesn't effect details. Brush it on and wipe it off. Also you can put the Vaseline on the back of your cured mold which will allow you to pour the other half of the mold and have the two halves not stick to each other so they can be peeled apart fairly easily.
A good source of plastic corrugated material is to collect campaign signs after elections that you can then cut up for re-use and keep out of the waste stream. I pick up a few every year from friends and family and use them for all sorts of craft projects.
Thank you for the tip!
Can also buy coroplast at homehardware shop. At specialised place like polyalto.com you can buy diffrent thickness 😉
Such a good idea!
Coming back and rewatching this after seeing some of your more recent videos, it's nice to see that "I'm going to make X in a way you're not technically supposed to, let's see what happens" has always been a part of your channel :-D
"They're not expensive. I'm just impatient." Story of my life. :D
This is kind of a "When Fandoms Collide" thing. I love sewing, historical sewing, costuming. But I also have a weak spot for watching people make 3D prints. It's cool that you can combine new technology with more traditional techniques.
Yeah! I love learning how things were traditionally made, and experimenting with modern equipment at my disposal! I look forward to playing with 'Worbla' someday, to make something historically inspired!
It's kind of like the show "How It's Made". I love watching that, but sometimes I want to know How WAS It made, before robots, before computers, before electricity.
Try 3D printing in wax, then use lost wax process. Can do higher temperature metals - zinc alloys, aluminum, gold & silver.
Or make a wax copy in the rubber mold, then use it in lost wax.
Do you need a centrifuge for lost wax casting?
A lot of online videos show a centrifuge. Some use a vacuum (the plaster seems to be porous enough for the vacuum to suck the metal into smaller features.
I just poured directly into the plaster, but it is poor on fine detail. Using a taller mold (3" high spru tube on a 1/2" cubical object) to increase the pressure seems to help as did getting the metal much hotter than just melting. I did zinc alloy at dull red glow.
Lost wax casting is a pretty complex process, comparatively, and much less repeatable, but I agree that it's the best way to preserve detail!
14:14 "With this hand, I will lift your sorrows. Your cup will never empty, for I will be your wine. With this candle, I will light your way in the darkness. With this ring, I asl you to be mine" HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA this came to my head when you said "my cup is empty" :D
Never realized it as a child, but those are actually really beautiful wedding vows.
I had a precious metals machine when I was little. Loved it so much. This kind of brought back memories of that
Fill in the little loops completely then after casting drill holes and you can have the end loops as thin as your drill bit dictates
Thank you for showing this. Not only was it interesting to learn, but the blue stuff splattering made me laugh. Haven't been feeling fantastic the last couple days so thank you. Plus you sound an awful like like me when something doesn't go quite right, or cleanly, thank you for that as well.
two comments: gloves are a great way to avoid getting noxious chemicals on your hands :)
Also, I've used packing tape over cardboard to mask mold boxes. Releases just fine.
Another mold material idea is those cheap Dollar tree cutting mats. This was really cool to watch and the results were very nice.
My dad always used Lego to make molds with when he cast pewter
Thats a great idea!
I use LEGOs as well.
Metal casting is so pretty, I want all the jeweley! The process is so fascinating I could watch it all day...
(PS you were using too much hot glue, that's why it took so long to set)
Neppy22 Ah, good to know for next time!
Would an old food container, like from sour cream or something work for the molding? And could you use jump rings instead of cast loops somehow?
I think both of those would work! I am really excited to revisit 3D print to pewter again soon!
Great outcome, and I must admit that I am more surprised at just how resilient the silicon was to take the molten pewter. Well done.
I haven't seen anyone mention it but a really easy retaining wall, especially for this part, is a round plastic Dixie cup with the bottom cut out and the rounded top hot glued to a hard smooth surface.
I love it. Totally impatient to start the project but doesn't have all the required tools of materials. So quickly ransacks home in search of suitable, or almost suitable replacements. Yep, do that regularly. By the way, you just created the sewing equivalent of a mock up!
Sand your 3D print first...or resin print your item FDM printers make lines where resin printers do not..looks beautiful ❤️
Excellent experimentation. I could see trying something like this to make cosplay accessories. Thanks for the fun video.
You and your video content are so interesting !
This may be an old video. BUT! I feel you on the "im just impatient" thing. Currently hand-sewing the hem of a chemise because i dont want to wait for my sewing machine to come back from the shop.
I have a project coming up where I'll be working with similar components. After searching for a bit, your video answered a few of my random questions that no one touched on. I appreciate it! Subbed- Thank you.
Those questions were not random.
It’s your first one. I call it a win.
Hey! To quickly cool hot glue I always put it in the freezer lol its fast, and maybe you could have put a rubber band or string round the outside to keep the shape before you glued it it could help :>
Lol, there are so many things I could have done better with this project, I have gotten lots of great advice! Thank you for your hint about the freezer!
You make it look so easy!
Morgan during this video is a whole a** mood.
Clear acrylic is nice if you have a saw to cut it because you can see if you have air bubbles.
omg I'm so in love with that you talking and measuring stuff in gramms and centimeters etc x"D
I got here through Bernadette, i love your vids too
I’m so allergic to pewter. I wish I wasn’t. I just think it’s so pretty. These look totally cool and they were a great first try with you 3D printed plastic. I hope to see more pewter casting :)
I will almost certainly do more pewter projects! I typically do at least one a year, so I might be a few months before my next one. It's a bummer that you are allergic! I wish I had an alternative metal to recommend that also melts at such a low temperature that it's easy to do at home :/
Eh I’m allergic to everything. But it really is fun to watch you make this stuff. Do you plan on replicating any famous jewelry this way? That would be fun
Berkley Pearl have you ever found out what metals you are actually allergic to? Copper, antimony, bismuth, sometimes silver are added to tin to make non-lead pewter. A certain pink digestive system helper is a form of bismuth I thought, so I would guess antimony and nickel are the metals your body reacts to. Like my mom, my skin will just eat away at fake golds until the base metal is reached, but there's no bad issue from that. I think diet has a large play as well. Allergies are an extremely interesting topic to me.
This is REAAAAAALLY cool!
Yes I love your friend!!!
Depending on the type of plastic that was used for the print, there are ways to smooth out the 3D print so that there isn't as much texturing on your pewter cast. If it's ABS, you can use acetone to smooth it out and remove some of the texturing.
I like this kind of stuff for making jewelry it's cool.
I love these videos!!!! It’s so interesting!!!
Like. How do you have time for all this?
Hi there Good job have good day and happy day be safe.
Happy holidays to all.
Enjoyed watching, I wondered if you could start with a silicone cupcake form instead of the cardboard box?
Ooo, I need to get more silicone molds to try that!
for take the air out without a vacuum maybe you could do as when we bake a cake and you need to share even the filling, so knocking on the table the little box. hope i explain properly. English is not my first language, hello from Finland, I think it was very good result
I like your video! I recently got some new Craftsman Accu-cut they are perfect for cutting craft stuff like the cardboard.
Use plaster Paris for support around silicone on large pieces ad gause for strength in plaster Paris that surrounds mold
Did you not need a releasing agent? It would come off easier with it.
Is it possible to have a link to the print file for the original piece?
I know this is a year later, but if you watch "Tips for Making Silicone Molds for Pewter Casting using Smooth-on Mold Max 60" by
Jimmie Porter At Stuart Arts, he gives to really good tips!
Dollar stores have great foam core fot this sort of mold creation.
Soooo cool! Thank you for the video! :)
It might be helpful when making silicone molds to coat your 3d printed parts in a thin layer of petroleum jelly before pouring silicone on them. I do a lot of silicone casting and I find it to be very very helpful against fairly rough 3d printed surfaces.
Also, a vacuum chamber is a very useful tool. It's actually impressive how much air gets stuck in there. But it is important especially with certain silicones, not to leave it in too long as the vacuum can damage the silicone material.
I couldn't do the maths if my life depended on it. I want to expand into pewter at some point. I wonder, is there any reason why you didn't use silicone putty?
..why cut up carton to make a tiny carton box? Why not use a matchbox (those big matches is the regular size isn't big enough) instead?
Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol dissolves a hot glue bond like a charm.
Another good mold material are Lego bricks--keep a bagful and you can make custom molds over and over. BTW--nice idea of using 3d prints for molds.
I strongly considered disassembling the cute little lego Minecraft house we were gifted for this project - but figured my husband wouldn't appreciate me messing with his things :D
I should get some legos of my own!
Very satisfying!
I’m late to this video as I’ve only recently subscribed so you maybe already know this, but 3D molds can be filed and smoothed to show less texture before you cast a mold. Great video though!
"I don't have one, so we just aren't going to do it." - Story of my life.
Late to this video - but I have done similar - and realised after all the messing around with the casting box/
,pouring spout, vents etc that I should have just 3d printed it all! Then just pour in the mould making material etc!
A large matchbox would work nicely as a mold box.
You may want to brush the mold with a very light layer of some talc powder. it gives the finished product a smoother surface.
I usually use graphite powder, but I will definitely give talc a try sometime! Thanks for the suggestion!
Morgan Donner I brush it on with a really light coat. Don't load it on, it will fill in the design. Feel free to contact me with any questions!
What about using soapstone
Try foamboard next time. I've seen people use that too!
Ooo, good idea!
morgan make more pewter works.
The bottom of a tetra pak or a milk container cut of should have worked fine, I guess... Might be worth a try
Ooo, good point! Thanks for the tip!
Does this work with silver?
Sorry I'm (very) late. You can use 3d prints to make molds for silver but the silicone can't take the temperature. Treat them like a lost wax and use plaster.
Could you not have just cast it flat and not had a pour spout? Im just curious as to why you couldn't have poured the pewter onto an imprint style mold and not had to fuss with the pour spout.
Baby powder on the mold before pouring the pewter helps
7:10 me every time I look at a glue gun
Can u use this on lead
Unfortunately Don, I don't know! I have not worked with lead, but I understand that it is supposed to be similar to tin and pewter. It's certainly worth experimenting with the find out!
What is this metal name??
It's pewter. Specifically the 98%tin blend from Rotometals.
What is per k/g prize?
th-cam.com/video/Kq2AEeG6n_A/w-d-xo.html
It's nice; but in one side doesn't made the hole like the another side
I just eyeball the part B - not necessary to do detailed measurements. The amount you use just determines how fast it cures. Just leave enough part b for the part a you have left.
cheap suggestions..legos, Lincoln logs to make the silicone mold bases. however, i understand you wanted to do something right this minute and not have to go anywhere.
This may be a stupid question, but are you related to the namesake family of the ill-fated “Donner Party”?
Adelaide Beeman-White Family lore goes that we are related to the Donner brother that stayed in the east and didn't travel west with his brothers. But who knows *shrug*
@@MorganDonner - That would be Tobias Verris Donner, born 3 Nov 1798 in Salem, Rowan, North Carolina; married Nancy Bettis; died 26 Aug 1853 in Menard, Illinois. A free account at FamilySearch.org might show you someone's already done the work that can link your paternal grandfather to Tobias.
The work's definitely been done linking Tobias back several generations to Sebastian Tanner, born around 1489 in Bern, Switzerland, and Barbara Zwyer. Tanner became Danner in the mid 1500s. In the mid 1600s, the family relocated from Bern to the Grand Duchy of Baden, Mannheim, Baden-Wuerttemberg.
It was Michael Danner Sr., born in 1696, who sailed from Rotterdam to Philadelphia with his wife Anna Marie Bend on the ship "James Goodwell" in 1727. He went on to survey the York Road, which linked York, Pennsylvania, to the port of Baltimore. With his sons Jacob and Henry, he also laid out the Monocacy Trail. In 1734, Michael was given the title "King's Commissioner of Highways, Pennsylvania." He named a number of locations in Pennsylvania after places he'd known in Baden-Wuerttemberg.
Tobias is descended from Michael's surveyor son Jacob, who was born in 1727, the year his parents emigrated, in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. Jacob married Elizabeth Bechtel, became a pastor of Beaver Dam Church (Church of the Brethren) in Frederick County, Maryland, and died in 1799 in Brownsville, Maryland. It was Jacob's son George (born 27 Feb 1752 in Rowan, North Carolina; died 27 Jun 1844 in Sangamon, Macon, Illnois) who spelled the name Donner. Among the seven children of George Donner and Mary Margaret Huff were Tobias and Tobias's brothers who went west.
All that's on the open web. A good starting point for the historical material: www.wikitree.com/genealogy/Donner-Family-Tree-52
Man why does hot glue only stick well when you don't want it to?
Can you PLEASE make a barbie mold and make the mold into a dress mannequin for her that pins can be put in to?
Maybe try "Lego" to make mold boxes.
I went ahead and got some Legos for the next time I want to make a mold like this! I'm excited to try it out!
@@MorganDonner It worked great for me...good luck :)
Altoid boxes would make good molds
All you have to do is buff it it will remove all the imperfection
with don't you just full it up with rice to find out how much you would have to make the 60
You don't need a backing plate or that little funnel you made to pour the Pewter you were all set without it
,All you had to do was pour the Pewter on top of the mold !
Why didn't U just used a 8 oz plastic cup
Try talcum powder on your pieces before you pour the silicone 😉
As an architecture student who has made many models with card and a craft knife, for the love of god use a nice sharp blade and a cutting mat and a metal ruler!!! It will be so much safer and more successful!! Fascinating to see pewter though!
to make the mold
If you want printed plastic to not have printing marks, it needs to be sanded.
the Pewter become discolored with high temperature it has to be around 400 t0 450 of heat look it up to much heat all you doing is burning the metal.
Yeah, railroad board is the WORST. Even corrugated is easier.
The beginning is already giving me anxiety.
Good job I have one request can you ship this silicone to Egypt Cairo please. I can send money to buy silicone and send me because it is not available in Egypt please
Listen, I get that a lot of female TH-camrs use self-deprecating humor to seem more relatable but, honestly, hearing you put yourself down is _excruciating_ . Especially as many folks are trying to avoid negative self-talk for their own mental health, I would ask you to please consider trying not to model that behavior during your tutorials, especially since your experiments are always in fact phenomenal and the point is largely to inspire anyway, right?
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