Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/Clean Up... Ugh! CA glue...
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2024
- While there are many videos on how to remove scratches from perspex using fine sandpaper and polishing compound, I found that this aggressive method works much faster and removes heavy glue residuals (eg. CA glue) with little manual effort.
The ROS just takes the grunt out of my muscles giving me more drinking time.
I only spend about 10-15 seconds on each sanding grit and buffing wheel compound, however, that time is governed by the size of the "restoration".
I use "Plastx Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish" that I bought at an auto retailer like "Autobarn/Supercheap Auto", however, any fine polishing compound can be used.
I have found that the small buffing wheel (used on the lathe) can be mounted in a cordless drill for those jobs too hard/big for presenting to the grinder/buffer.
I use tripoli and white diamond waxing sticks on the buffers, bought in a kit from the Beall Tool Company (USA).
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Best. Narration. Ever.
nice too see people who can repair things, not very usual these days, keep the good work
This video was very helpful, but you are so funny to listen to 😂 thanks for the chuckles
Thanks lizm'... thank my script writer "De Bortoli Wines"...
I don't have perspex to polish but watched anyway for the entertainment value.
I could listen to this guy all day
Thanks for "watching" JG... now go and put some new batteries into your hearing aid.
Thanks. I got some epoxy on my Perspex, this confirms my plan to clean it.
Liked just because you opened with “just in case you happen to be chicken shit”
Superb video - always living and learning - thanks (from Scotland)
Glad it may be of help "Scottie".
Nice repair. I appreciated the humor aswell!
Awesome 👍 I thought you were taking the piss when you scratched the hell out of it😂 Great vid, cheers mate 🤙
Thanks DJ... Not sure what types of compounds out there that translate to the ones I use (Tripoly, white diamond and carnauba wax), but there are so many I don't know equivalents... I can only spruik the ones I've had success with, though many others will do as good a job.
The main message is that you don't need to write off scratched/damaged acrylic (plexiglass and probably even glass)...
Juust an FYI if interested... the beall Tool Company has been bought out be Lee Valley (Canada) and the products should be available on their WEB site soon... according to their PR team..
I've got small cloth wheel like you have from amazon, also with a brown compound, i've tried to apply it the way you did, and it didn't applied at all on the cloth. Cloth it self started even to loose it hairs from the pressure i've applied.
Hi Holms... sorry to hear you are not having the success that I've had... Unfortunately I can only go from the experience I've had using the products and equipment I had on hand... I didn't have to go out and purchase anything new.
Outside the "PlasticX" compound, I originally (years ago) bought my buffing equipment from the Beall Tool company (a long way from USA to Australia)
www.bealltool.com/products/buffing/buffer.php
and their respective waxes (tripoli and white diamond), explicitly for woodworking. Recently I bought some buffing pads on a budget and now they're either in the rubbish bin or given to people I don't like too much (sorry recipients)... they were a bucket of shit compared to the Beall products. Your equipment may be different, however, I have no idea what you are actually using.
What you see in the video is contains actual footage the first time tried this method and as you can see it works. I have no affiliation with Beall but it worked for me... I have no idea what other supplier combination will do the trick and can only quote what has worked for me.
Sorry for the negative reply, but unfortunately I can only call it as I see it. I have used this method several times now with similar (exactly the same good) results.
Good luck.
Hey Alex do you have a shop if Jersey where you do work? I have a slingshot and the windshield got stained your the wrong chemical by mistake to clean it. I want to see if it possible to buff it your it’s not glass. It’s plastic I guess plexiglass
Hi David, I'm just a hack woodworker and not really into glass or perspex/plexiglass... I just stumbled across this as I buff/polish a lot of my timber.
I'd be apprehensive in recommending anything to do with a windshield as it might cause unknown grief... All I can suggest is that try on glass/bottle starting with a heavy abrasive (talk to an automotive shop) and go up the grade.. the compounds have abrasives so it should work, but then it may put scratches that can't be removed.
Sorry, but I am no way knowledgeable enough to provide further experience advice.
@@alexkara9696 no worries thanks sir. And it was polycarbonate not plexiglass jajajajjaja.
what are the brown and white things that are used on the cloth parts before polishing ?
They are called Tripoli and White diamond bar that are from my wood buffing kit bought from
www.bealltool.com/products/buffing/buffer.php
Those bars may be available from other outlets, however, I don't know what the would be called and what "cutting grade" they would be... The bars contain cutting compounds often used to polish metals.
Thanks a lot.
But l have big acrylic sheet 1.5×2meter.
What taqnic can be used for polishing.. sir
Ishi, Have a look at this blog I wrote a while back...
www.lumberjocks.com/LittleBlackDuck/blog/130613
I used a cordless grill, however if you have a corded with greater speed, you'd get better results... or just polish much longer than this lazy bugger was prepared to do.
@@alexkara9696
good morning
Thank you..it us very useful blog..sir
If it hes helped, I have a good excuse for a vino... no disrespect meant.
@@alexkara9696
Sorry but could I have your e- mail.
I have my own "DIY" at home( water bubble wall) and I need help if you interested . Thank you
@@esmael.58 YOU
Almost as good as glass? It all depends on the final application. Lexan/Perspex is stronger than glass.
Alex ya bloody legend! Here I am, looking at videos on how to buff out scratches on our acrylic caravan windows and I stumble upon this bloody ripper of a vid mate! Made by a bloke I worked with 20 smeggin years ago! This is nutzzzzzzz! Rack ya brains young chap. Box Hill. Coding in COBOL - VisionPLUS! This has just blown my mind! :-) Hope you're well mate and still playing with ya model tanks! Cheers, Stevo. :-) P.S. I'm gonna binge watch some of ya other vids. By the way, you ain't changed a bit ya funny codger.
G'Day Steve, The name rings a bell, COBOL and Vision Plus brings back nightmares... Gotta be more than 20 fucking years... Been here in downtown Churchill for 10... worked for Yanks for 8 and sold my soul to CSC for longer than I care to remember. A few Stephens have crossed my path Moore than some... Gotta try to clear the cobwebs and try to access memory above that that 16MB magical line that alcohol cannot affect... must swap whories once this fucking C19 goes into slumber.
Can be PM's at "alex@karapens.com" but don't pass that around or all my nemesisses will come debt collecting.
BTW, I'm sure if you remember moi, you'd remember Paul (Wally)... still keep in touch. Just to see if Unca Alzhi is having a snooze, would I be way off track if I mentioned an upside down wrist(ish) tattoo?
This link may also be of some assist in cleaning acrylic when you can't take the job to the tool,
www.lumberjocks.com/LittleBlackDuck/blog/130613
@@alexkara9696 Yeah mate, you're on the money about the tatt! Hehe, can't believe you remember that. BTW, we bought some land at Golden Beach, near Sale - which is kind of close to Churchill. Great area. Ok, i gotta get up and polish me caravan windows. Have a top day and i'll drop you an email sometime sir. Cheers big ears. 😀
Lexan or poly-carbonate ?? do you have any idea what is best for that particular material??
Sorry I haven't replied Marco, however, I treat both the same even though they may be way different. The polish I use is for paint on metal so I don't think it would matter too much.... Either way, if your media is stuffed, you probably couldn't stuff it up any more.
@@alexkara9696 Thank you very much for your time, I did follow your advice and it actually worked....
Glad it worked for you (as well)... If you see some of my videos, none are rehearsed and very (very, very, very) few are re-shot... So what you see is what actually happens. I would have had egg on my face if it didn't work the first time as I'm not the type to experiment a lot.
My motto is "If at first you don't succeed, give up!"
Just what I needed, thanks mate.
Glad it was of help...
This fella cracks me up. 🤣😅😂
Saved me time and money
Thanks, glad it has helped.
COULD YOU PLEASE EXPLAIN SAND PAPER GRIT AND GRIENDER POLISHING SPECS
Depending on how bad the damage is, I usually start at 180 grit (may go down as low as 100 for really bad damage) and work my way up to roughly 600 (100 → 150 → 180 → 240 → 320 → 400... ( → optionally 600 → 1,000).
Then I use the Beall Buffing system (without the wax),
www.bealltool.com/products/buffing/buffer.php
using their "tripoli" and "white diamond" compounds finishing with a car polishing compound.
I use the following,
www.automegastore.com.au/meguiars-plastx-clear-plastic-cleaner-and-polish-296ml?gclid=Cj0KCQiAhMOMBhDhARIsAPVml-HHPRaQH-rAInIWk2zrF5qMQWs86oHE4MpJ3da6UsKnmA_Zfgbs4fIaAkOvEALw_wcB
however, any good car polishing compound will work.
I made do with what I had as I had the Beall buffing system for my woodworking and the "PlasticX" for my pen making.
Now I'm not going to say this is the best way as this is the first way I tried... it worked and I have stuck with it.
Awsome thanks!
Very useful thank you
Glad it may have helped...
Nice
Could you say "whatever" just a few more times???
i would like to contact you
Lol