Not unless you take it to a dealership or service center and have them plug in the buds computer system but even then that might cost you more than the PV3 itself. If you owned a PV3 you would be able to do this not only to your bike but any friends bikes as well. As it does not require custom tuning to clear and reset a CVT belt maintenance code. The PV3 is definitely a cheap solution when you consider everything. This means you can do all the work from home and not spend a fortune. You can do it multiple times and you can now even provide a service to anyone else that has that type of vehicle.
Awesome I'm glad I was able to help you out. Thank you for subscribing to the channel and being a part of 10,000 subscribers. We will have a giveaway video here soon
Great video Bill again. I will say my wife's is well over the 12000 mark we just reset the code on hers when it came on but she doesn't ride it too hard. No performance loss yet as we can notice. Her light didn't come till after she had over 12000 on it. Unless it looses performance we are going to try and run it till the light comes on again see if it can actually be run that long.
Just keep in mind if the belt has a catastrophic failure and explodes it will destroy the transmission cover and possibly the transmission housing itself. I've seen it about 10 times on these bikes so far. It happens a lot on side by sides as well. The belt when it blows up usually causes a lot of damage and will be more expensive to fix than replacing the belt itself.. so as long as you have that in the back of your mind and understand the price that it will cost to fix everything.. let me know how long the belt lasts
My comment is not directed for you to purchase a belt for me. I don't care where you purchase the bill. The profit margin is not huge on these things so it's not about the money. I just want to make sure you understand the consequences of running the belt longer than expected. You may not think that it feels like it's down on power or feels like it's slipping. I can assure you if the belt cracks or dries up or anything like that it can cause catastrophic failure. I've had people call me that have been on the side of the highway in a wreck because the bottom of the CVT transmission case exploded violently when the belt blew up. That bike was totaled. It had 14,000 miles on it. The person did the same thing. They reset the belt code and kept riding. Don't get me wrong we've seen the belt go longer than 12,000 miles we've seen the belt go as long as 15,000 miles but it's a Gamble.
@@BLRTUNING @Tom Mc lemore my belt has 15,500 and some change on it but im going to replace it asap transmission maintenance came on at 8,500 had the dealership to look at it and it was good
@@BLRTUNING I have seen these belts for way longer than what brp says they will. This is not my first cvt belt game. I have had them explode on the 4x4s and the dune buggies and carried extra belts and tools to replace them on the spot. If that thing exploded like that there was more going on than just a bad belt in my opinion. Some of these people are trying to make these things do way more than they are intended to do. My comment had nothing to do with buying a belt from you or not?? Not sure where you got that from was just sharing our experience with it so far. Sorry I want do that any more. I don't really care when people change there belt.
@@angeldomena3723 yes it can read and clear diagnostics codes. It can also reset your CVT transmission belt code. It is a very useful tool to have. It'll keep you from having to take the bike into the dealership or service center just to find out what a code means. It can read the code and then you can do a quick Google search to find out what that code exactly means and fix the issue on your own. This is a very handy tool just to keep in the toolbox even if you don't use it for the tuning work. The fact that it can do the custom tuning work is an added bonus. We keep these all over our shop and use them on a daily basis. Don't forget you can also pick up a CVT belt if you need one. We have those brand new Dynojet Power series belts in stock. Anyways I look forward to seeing your order come through. Remember on our website if you click on the option that says use shop to pay and then select guest checkout you won't have to fill out any information as far as creating an account. From there you can just enter a debit card or credit card. If you have any issues feel free to reach out to me and let me know. Thank you have a great day blrtuning.tech@gmail.com
In the ryker manual for the maintenance schedule it mentions replacing fuel filter which is about the same time the CVT belt is listed for. Have you changed your fuel filter and do you have a video that shows you how?
Yes these belts will outlast the stock factory belt and can handle much more abuse. These are designed for 200 horsepower four-wheel drive side by sides. So they can definitely take quite a bit more abuse. On a stock factory belt at the drag strip with the drag radial on the back the stock OEM belt was slipping after one of drag racing. The dynojet belt has lasted multiple nights at the drag strip and is still on the Ryker today. No slipping whatsoever. A true testament to how much abuse it can handle versus the OEM belt. Also they come in at a better price point than the OEM belt. On our website shipping is always included. There's no extra charge at checkout. You'll see on our website you can purchase it with the CVT belt changing tool and we also have a package where you can purchase it with the spark plugs as well. Here's the link to our CVT belt section of our website. To get back to the home page on our website just click on the Can-Am ryker icon at the top of the screen. www.blrtuning.co/collections/cvt-belts
So you have had time to test those belts out. How much longer do they last compared to the OEM belt. Just curious how those looked when you took it off compared to the OEM that is if you have replaced one of those yet you sell. Thanks Bill
When we ran the factory OEM belt at the drag strip after we were done at the track the belt was slipping. On the new Dynojet power series belts that we tested out for 2 years for Dynojet the belt was still grabbing hard. These Dynojet power series belts grab harder than the stock factory belt. If you're making more horsepower and torque than these are the ideal way to go or if you ride the bike really hard. They can take a lot more abuse. They were originally designed for side by sides that make 2 to 300 horsepower and are four wheel drive. So this belt spinning the rykers single tire is not even putting any stress on that belt. We still recommend changing the belt based on factory specs so at 12,000 mi. However with that being said we've had people run 18,000 miles with these belts. If you'd like a belt we usually have them in stock, if we don't have them in stock we have more on the way. We sell out of them on a weekly basis. We have a 12,000 mi bundle on our website where you can get the CVT belt, new spark plugs that are upgraded iridium plugs, as well as the CVT belt changing tool. You can also just buy the belt by itself and you can add the tool to your order. Here's a link to our website. We ship anywhere in the US. www.blrtuning.co/products/can-am-ryker-900-rally-sport-cvt-replacement-belt-dynojet-power-series
@@BLRTUNING thanks Bill this will be going on the wife's we ride mostly mountain curves and cruising around. She hardly ever spins a wheel but she does outrun most 2 wheelers we ride with in the mountain curves. The OEM belt is at 18000 and still pulling strong but 18000 is as far as I want to take the OEM belt with her riding it for safety reasons. I only let it go this long because I ride it every now and then to feel if it lost any performance as she wouldn't know how to tell. Will be measuring it when I take it off to see how close it is to brp specs. Someone had to be the giny pig lol. So I would say she could comfortably go another 18000 on those belts then. I have talked with another guy that run the gates carbon and got longer life out of it as well. He goes 18000 on his with the gates as well. Just for information purposes. I am with you if someone doesn't know what they are doing and willing to suffer the consequences then they need to stick to the 12000 brp recommended. I am not advocating anyone go what we are doing without some knowledge of how these belts work and how the person rides the bike.
@@BLRTUNING I also seen they make a duro series belt too. Wonder how it compares to the OEM. She does not do any hard takeoffs and the performance is stock. I have upgraded the handling quite a bit for her with expensive upgrades that is how she outruns everyone in the turns lol.
Question, I purchased my 22 Ryker 900 ACE and the dealer told me it was shaft driven. Does a shaft driven Ryker still have a CVT belt too? Sorry for the stupid question.
Yes the drive shaft goes from the transmission back to the rear wheel. The transmission gets turned from the motor using a CVT belt to turn the lower wheel which then goes to the drive shaft. So it is a CVT transmission and then the rear wheel is shaft driven from the CVT transmission. So yes it's still uses a CVT belt. If you ever decide to upgrade your belt I highly recommend checking out the dynojet power series belts. We have them available on our website. They grab harder than the stock factory belt and they will Outlast the stock factory belt. www.blrtuning.co
If it says belt maintenance required or something along those lines then yes or transmission maintenance required then yes most likely belt needs replaced. We carry dino jet power series belts on our website. They're currently on sale for this month www.blrtuning.co
For that type of work you would have to go to your dealership or service center they have to use the buds computer system in order to remove the code and reset the belt life. The dinojet pd3 which we carry on our website does all that for you.. that's the beauty of owning a pv3. You don't have to use it to tune your vehicle. If you don't want to have your vehicle making more horsepower and more torque you can simply keep it put away in a drawer somewhere for safekeeping and use it as a tool for working on the bike. It's a very worthwhile investment. I can't tell you how many trips to the dealership I have saved myself just by owning a pv3 and being able to do this type of clearing the codes and reading the codes myself at home. Here's a direct link to the Dynojet pv3. Just in case you want to take a look at it on our website. www.blrtuning.co/products/can-am-ryker-pv3-25-11-by-dynojet
Hopefully my videos will help you with the tech part. If you ever have any questions don't hesitate to reach out to me. You can always get a hold of me via email as well. From there we can exchange contact information and be able to talk more on a personal level than here on youtube. blrtuning.tech@gmail.com
Hey I made that mistake and dropped those clam shell nuts ...of course I don't see them anywhere. Where can I buy more and what is the proper name for them so I can search? Thanks
Sorry for the late reply I'm not sure where you would purchase them. Perhaps find a couple others on the bike that are the same size and take them to a hardware store near you so they can find you the right ones. I wish I had a better answer.
Yes absolutely if you order a pv3 for your Can-Am ryker directly through our website and select custom tune with it it will be pre-installed on your pv3. You won't have to use a computer or anything like that all you will do is plug it into your bike select the custom tune and hit flash tune let the process complete and that is it you are done. Remember if you want to mount it to your vehicle we do carry the mounting system for it as well. You can select a handlebar mount or a body panel mount. This way you can install the pv3 onto the vehicle and leave it mounted on the vehicle and use the custom gauge screen. The custom gauge screen will allow you to view and monitor things like air to fuel ratio, engine coolant temperature, battery voltage, throttle position, rpm, there is tons of stuff that you can monitor and view through the gauges using four gauges at a time per screen. Remember everything will come with a QR code that you can scan with your smartphone camera and it will take you straight to the install video. If you place an order for a pv3 with a custom tune please send us an email directly afterwards so we can make contact with you and get all the details about the tuning work that you're after. You'll see various options for the custom tuning work if you don't see one that lists your exact parts then select the very bottom option that says I don't see my parts I need a custom tune. When you send us an email please leave away for me to contact you if I need to. A phone number is awesome or just an email address something like that. We need to know if you have a nickname for your vehicle, we need to know the year make and model of your vehicle, we need to know a list of all of your modifications as far as performance parts. This means exhaust, headers, ram air intake system, K&N high flow replacement filter, modified air box, modified air inlet scoop. These are the parts I need to know about to build the custom tune correctly... Below is the email address to send us an email so we can make contact with each other. blrtuning.tech@gmail.com You can purchase the pd3 on our website remember you can always click the little ryker icon to get back to the home screen.... www.blrtuning.co
So, I recently installed mine. I did the break-in procedure and everything. Is it normal for it to be a bit jerky at low speeds (Especially in reverse)?
Yes a CVT transmission is not the smoothest for sure. The bike has to climb up to a specific RPM before the belt grabs so at low RPM you might feel the belt grab and then let go and then grab and let go again over and over. So yes that would be perfectly normal. When you first go to take off and you're revving up the throttle slowly you may even feel or hear a clunk sound from the transmission. That's just the belt grabbing and engaging. All the noises for the most part are perfectly normal. If you start hearing any kind of rattling sound that gets louder as you give it the gas that would be the rollers and that would mean that the rollers have broken or the helix is damaged. Other than that CVT transmissions are not quiet and they are not usually smooth.
Thank you for responding so quickly. Yeah, I’ve always noticed a little jerking with the stock belt. It’s just a lot more prominent now, I guess because the grip is so much stronger with the Dyno Belt.
Howdy. Are you still offering free tuning codes for folks that buy the PV3 using your code? I need to replace my belt and might as well invest in this now to reset my code and do future work
You can order a PV3 through our website and you can purchase it with a custom tune. If you purchase with a custom tune we can offer 10% off by using discount code: BLUEDRAGON This link will take you to the Pv3 on our website be sure to check the box that says yes I want a custom tune. www.blrtuning.co/products/can-am-ryker-pv3-25-11-by-dynojet
We charge for tuning but we do offer a discount if you're ordering the PV3 with a tune... The tune is built specifically for your modifications on your bike. The PV3 can clear the CVT belt maintenance code without a custom tune though. If you decide to go that route. If you want more horsepower and more torque then tuning would be the biggest performance modification that you can do to these bikes as they are very locked down from the factory.
Hi Bill. When I try and do a burnout my Ryker will stop it saying uts going into belt saver mode? When I was in stop and go traffic on hwy 30 in rainier my Ryker would constantly jerk when trying to stay at a slow speed? Is any of this normal?
I've never used the belts that they carry so I would not be able to comment on that. I have used the Dynojet Power series belts. We were testing them last summer at the drag strip and they have held up tremendously well. Better than OEM.. these are the same belts that are used on side by sides that are making 200 plus horsepower. They are designed for high performance machines.
So I have a question, you seem to be very knowledgeable with Rykers. My wife had a 2020 Rally Edition. It had issues when going through curves, felt like it was cutting the power through the curve, very annoying when trying to ride more spirited. So we traded that for a 2022 Rally, it seems to be doing the same thing, we have a case open CanAm, but as of yet, there is no resolution. So, have you heard of or dealt with this? If so, have you been able to determine the cause or have a solution? I'm leaning towards, the YAW sensor, thoughts?
@@BLRTUNING I believe that as well, I ride a ZX6R, so I love the curves and my wife does as well. But, it sucks when she is trying to ride more aggressively and the bike won't let her. Do you know of a solution? Thank you for any help sir.
We are located in Vancouver Washington. When you purchase a belt from us we do offer install for $100 ... A dealership will usually charge around $350 not counting the price of the belt. Our Dynojet power series belts are around $180... You can always order a belt through our website if you are not local to us and we can ship one out to you along with the CVT belt changing tool. The TH-cam installation video will walk you through the process. You can always scroll to the bottom of our website and click on the contact icon You should see a phone number and email address. Send us an email or give us a call. www.blrtuning.co
Great video! Cool idea for the next video is a primary clutch and secondary clutch removal and cleaning? Im sure it would be much appreciated for those who have never played around with cvt transmissions! Maybe play around with weights and or springs for those people who are making more power?
@@BLRTUNING still much appreciated! I am waiting for my belt removal tool to arrive and I will be diving into the clutches and hopefully pulling the primary clutch off. Will also see if a CVTech trailbloc primary clutch will mount up! Just have to verify crank shaft taper
@@michaeldavidblunt well just don't forget we do carry the new Power series belts on our website. There's a link in the description below this video.. if you want something a little heavier duty than the OEM.
I replaced my belt because it was squealing loud on take offs and stopping. But on the test drive from replacing it, it still sqeaks. Do you have any suggestions? Will the secondary clutch get out of sync and drag it through the primary? Thanks in advance! ?
It could be damage done to the rollers in the secondary clutch might not have anything to do with the belt. Typically these don't squeal aftermarket or stock when it comes to the CVT belt once they're worn out they just slip
@@BLRTUNING That's a probability for sure! Changing the belt did nothing to fix the squeal. The bike only has 800 miles, so I'm taking in. Thank you for the heads up!
@@benfrank1583 My Can-Am dealer said they couldn't replicate the issue in their test drive. So they wouldn't do anything else. But of coarse it squealed on the way home, and ever since. I know the secondary is hanging on to its grip, when it should be in idle. Bill is probably right about a roller or somthing sticking. But my dealer wants video of it happening, before they will open the bike up at all. They told me that the warranty won't cover the diagnostic fees, and they are trying to "save me money". I guess I need to drive an hour to the next dealer and see if they will help. The bike has just over 800 miles, so this is a bit frustrating!
No it will not throw a coat if you change the belt. However once your service belt maintenance code comes up on your dash you will have to take it to a dealership or service center and have them plug their buds computer system in it to clear that code unless you have a pv3.
No because as it gets thinner and thinner it rides down further and further in the groove on the pulley causing the bike to lose top end and torque. Also the pulley would not be able to pinch it correctly like it's supposed to therefore it would cause additional wear on the belt. It's kind of a crazy thing the way these CVT belts work. Basically once they're worn out they start deteriorating even quicker and quicker as about gets more worn and more worn. This is what a lot of people mistakenly do by not replacing the belt when they actually needed to then we see the belt explode and cause even more damage and more money's worth of damage than a new belt itself.
Nope there's no difference. The rally comes with different suspension and different wheels and tires and the max Mount is already installed other than that no differences whatsoever. You do get the extra drive mode for the rally model which just allows a little bit more tire slip..
The street tires that come on the 900 Ace will outperform the all-terrain tires that come on the rally if you're on the street. So just keep that in mind. If you don't plan on taking it in the dirt don't get the rally. Or get the rally and put the wheels and tires from the 900 on it... If you only plan on driving on the road
@@daontetrotter1 I don't recommend anything but the factory rated tire. Those are the only tires that would be keeping the bike covered under any insurance claims also. And remember if you're going to run a rear tire from an automobile like a car or truck you have to make sure it's not steel braided. Imagine a steel braided tire coming unglued down the freeway and the steel braids whipping you in the back of the head. Not fun there's a reason the Kenda tires are what are put on the bike. BRP has a deal with Kenda and those are the only tires that are certified by BRP therefore I cannot recommend running anything different..
?? just what would happen if the belt broke would it bend or break anything I ask cause the belt is a big thick boy to start with and the ones I have seen taken off still look new and 10K milage is nothing for a belt like that. the old v belts would break and be in the streets but the newer serpentine belts hold up much better, is this can am just covering its ass over nothing
A lot of people don't understand how the belt wears out. It gets thinner on the sidewalls of the belt and becomes more of a V shape riding lower and lower in the pulleys. This means less and less power and less and less top end as the belt wears down. The belt will always be thick even a worn-out belt will still sometimes show almost the same thickness as far as inside to outside thickness but left to right thickness the width of the belt is where it gets worn out. It also becomes glazed over to where it can no longer grip hold of the pulley like it did originally. If a belt explodes it can cause tons of damage. The last one that we worked on that had a belt blow up on them because they didn't change it when they were supposed to destroyed the transmission housing and part of the actual case that the transmission sits in. You're talking like $2,000 in damage just because they didn't want to change a $200 belt. If you like doing burnouts and riding hard then you need to change the belt earlier than what is recommended by can-am. Can-Am recommends every 12,000 miles. That would be normal everyday driving from a person that weighs 180 lb or less that is doing the speed limit and driving like a normal person. That is where they're 12,000 mile Mark is registered for that type of writing with that type of body weight. I'm a 220 lb aggressive Rider. The belt that I'm showing me taking off in this video is completely destroyed. The bike would not go past 90 miles an hour if you ripped the throttle at about 60 MPH you could physically feel the belt slipping. It was overdue for changing but I was trying to make sure that I could show in video what a worn out belt looks like. It's completely glazed over and no longer grabs traction on the pulley. It's definitely not worth the risk of pushing it past what it's supposed to be done at. The damage we've seen is crazy. If it blows up on you on the freeway it could be the last time that you ride the bike. These Dynojet power series belts that I'm showing off are also used on 200 horsepower all wheel drive side by sides. They are very heavy duty and they are way stickier and grippier than the factory OEM belt. They are designed to take the abuse that some of us decide to put these bikes through. Even still we will change the belt every 12,000 miles has recommended or sooner. Having this heavier duty belt means we can get away with riding it a little harder and actually having the belt last the way we want it to. We carry the belts on our website if it's time to change your belt then it is what it is. It's not worth waiting until it explodes on you trust me I've seen it multiple times... I'm not saying all this so you'll go by a belt for me. If I don't get a sale from you that's perfectly fine do your research there's lots of belt options out there. All I'm saying is change the belt at 12,000 miles if you ride it like normal at about 8,000 or 9,000 miles if you abuse the hell out of it like I do. www.blrtuning.co
Doing the custom tuning on these bikes is by far the biggest performance modification you could possibly do. These bikes are very locked down from the factory. It's about a 30% increase in torque and about an extra 10 horsepower along with removing the top speed limit cap and raising the rev limit. These bikes Cruise really good once they are tuned. If you have any questions about custom tuning you can reach out to me through any of my contact information that's in the link in the description below this video or go over to our website and scroll down to the bottom of the page. www.blrtuning.co
@@BLRTUNING yes sir it’s not self adjusting itself when I turned the disc and when I ride it It’s not coming up the pulley It’s not coming all the way out
Check out our website the belt now fits the 600 as well and has been documented that it is indeed working perfect. So we have relisted it on our website as fitting all models and all years. Sorry for the late reply to your comment. www.blrtuning.co/products/can-am-ryker-900-rally-sport-cvt-replacement-belt-dynojet-power-series
I'm assuming that's a typo and I'm guessing you mean Helix... Try putting the back tire up in the air. So you can rotate it. You could also try moving the gear shift forward and reverse lever in between forward and reverse. Just keep in mind never start the vehicle when it's in this position as it can destroy stuff. When you have it in between forward and reverse it will act kind of like a false and neutral. You should then be able to rotate the upper clutch assembly in reverse. Spending it counterclockwise if you are looking at the face of it. This should get the Helix to come back out to being flush.
@KruellaDaDevil this could be a damaged Helix, the rollers in the primary clutch could be damaged, it could also be the spring behind the helix is broken. So definitely take a look at everything. These are all considered whear parts. When they wear out you're supposed to replace them. They are not permanent parts on the bike. The clutch has a lot of components to it that need to be replaced every once in a while.
@@BLRTUNING the rollers aren’t there anymore! I have them but they aren’t on the bike! Hadn’t been there in since I changed the belt last year! I’m worried now!
Thanks for taking the time to provide these videos!
No problem hopefully one of those videos ends up helping you out.. thanks for subscribing to the channel.
Any way to reset without spending 400 plus dollars on the Dynojet OBDii device? I don't plan to do any tunning, I just need to reset the cvt
Not unless you take it to a dealership or service center and have them plug in the buds computer system but even then that might cost you more than the PV3 itself. If you owned a PV3 you would be able to do this not only to your bike but any friends bikes as well. As it does not require custom tuning to clear and reset a CVT belt maintenance code. The PV3 is definitely a cheap solution when you consider everything. This means you can do all the work from home and not spend a fortune. You can do it multiple times and you can now even provide a service to anyone else that has that type of vehicle.
Thank you Bill, got it done with your help!
Awesome I'm glad I was able to help you out. Thank you for subscribing to the channel and being a part of 10,000 subscribers. We will have a giveaway video here soon
Thank You you have a great way of explaining,
No problem glad my video can help. If you haven't already please consider hitting the subscribe button it helps out tremendously. Have a wonderful day
Can u make a video of its frame design please
Great video Bill again. I will say my wife's is well over the 12000 mark we just reset the code on hers when it came on but she doesn't ride it too hard. No performance loss yet as we can notice. Her light didn't come till after she had over 12000 on it. Unless it looses performance we are going to try and run it till the light comes on again see if it can actually be run that long.
Just keep in mind if the belt has a catastrophic failure and explodes it will destroy the transmission cover and possibly the transmission housing itself. I've seen it about 10 times on these bikes so far. It happens a lot on side by sides as well. The belt when it blows up usually causes a lot of damage and will be more expensive to fix than replacing the belt itself.. so as long as you have that in the back of your mind and understand the price that it will cost to fix everything.. let me know how long the belt lasts
Informative feedback on that first comment. I'd take your advice and replace sooner than . Later? Too risky.
Top of the line video Bill thanks again.
My comment is not directed for you to purchase a belt for me. I don't care where you purchase the bill. The profit margin is not huge on these things so it's not about the money. I just want to make sure you understand the consequences of running the belt longer than expected. You may not think that it feels like it's down on power or feels like it's slipping. I can assure you if the belt cracks or dries up or anything like that it can cause catastrophic failure. I've had people call me that have been on the side of the highway in a wreck because the bottom of the CVT transmission case exploded violently when the belt blew up. That bike was totaled. It had 14,000 miles on it. The person did the same thing. They reset the belt code and kept riding. Don't get me wrong we've seen the belt go longer than 12,000 miles we've seen the belt go as long as 15,000 miles but it's a Gamble.
@@BLRTUNING @Tom Mc lemore my belt has 15,500 and some change on it but im going to replace it asap transmission maintenance came on at 8,500 had the dealership to look at it and it was good
@@BLRTUNING I have seen these belts for way longer than what brp says they will. This is not my first cvt belt game. I have had them explode on the 4x4s and the dune buggies and carried extra belts and tools to replace them on the spot. If that thing exploded like that there was more going on than just a bad belt in my opinion. Some of these people are trying to make these things do way more than they are intended to do. My comment had nothing to do with buying a belt from you or not?? Not sure where you got that from was just sharing our experience with it so far. Sorry I want do that any more. I don't really care when people change there belt.
You’re the man Bill😎👍🏻✨
Thank you
Thanks Bill.. Im going to order mines right now🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Also does it read codes?
@@angeldomena3723 yes it can read and clear diagnostics codes. It can also reset your CVT transmission belt code. It is a very useful tool to have. It'll keep you from having to take the bike into the dealership or service center just to find out what a code means. It can read the code and then you can do a quick Google search to find out what that code exactly means and fix the issue on your own. This is a very handy tool just to keep in the toolbox even if you don't use it for the tuning work. The fact that it can do the custom tuning work is an added bonus. We keep these all over our shop and use them on a daily basis. Don't forget you can also pick up a CVT belt if you need one. We have those brand new Dynojet Power series belts in stock. Anyways I look forward to seeing your order come through. Remember on our website if you click on the option that says use shop to pay and then select guest checkout you won't have to fill out any information as far as creating an account. From there you can just enter a debit card or credit card. If you have any issues feel free to reach out to me and let me know.
Thank you have a great day
blrtuning.tech@gmail.com
Have you ever cleaned the drive pulley shelves? Can you demonstrate that next time please if so
You can use alcohol to clean them but they do make a cleaner for it as well. Next time I pull the clutch apart I will do a video on it
@@BLRTUNING freaking awesome. Thanks man
Thanks you video help me out a lot .
Glad my video helped you thank you for subscribing to the channel
In the ryker manual for the maintenance schedule it mentions replacing fuel filter which is about the same time the CVT belt is listed for. Have you changed your fuel filter and do you have a video that shows you how?
I have not done the fuel filter yet
@@BLRTUNING how about now?
@@benfrank1583 still haven't had any issues
Is there an advantage to your aftermarket belt? Thanks for the video!
Yes these belts will outlast the stock factory belt and can handle much more abuse. These are designed for 200 horsepower four-wheel drive side by sides. So they can definitely take quite a bit more abuse. On a stock factory belt at the drag strip with the drag radial on the back the stock OEM belt was slipping after one of drag racing.
The dynojet belt has lasted multiple nights at the drag strip and is still on the Ryker today. No slipping whatsoever. A true testament to how much abuse it can handle versus the OEM belt. Also they come in at a better price point than the OEM belt. On our website shipping is always included. There's no extra charge at checkout.
You'll see on our website you can purchase it with the CVT belt changing tool and we also have a package where you can purchase it with the spark plugs as well. Here's the link to our CVT belt section of our website. To get back to the home page on our website just click on the Can-Am ryker icon at the top of the screen.
www.blrtuning.co/collections/cvt-belts
Great how to video.
Thanks
Great work man!
Thanks
So you have had time to test those belts out. How much longer do they last compared to the OEM belt. Just curious how those looked when you took it off compared to the OEM that is if you have replaced one of those yet you sell. Thanks Bill
When we ran the factory OEM belt at the drag strip after we were done at the track the belt was slipping. On the new Dynojet power series belts that we tested out for 2 years for Dynojet the belt was still grabbing hard. These Dynojet power series belts grab harder than the stock factory belt. If you're making more horsepower and torque than these are the ideal way to go or if you ride the bike really hard. They can take a lot more abuse. They were originally designed for side by sides that make 2 to 300 horsepower and are four wheel drive. So this belt spinning the rykers single tire is not even putting any stress on that belt. We still recommend changing the belt based on factory specs so at 12,000 mi. However with that being said we've had people run 18,000 miles with these belts. If you'd like a belt we usually have them in stock, if we don't have them in stock we have more on the way. We sell out of them on a weekly basis. We have a 12,000 mi bundle on our website where you can get the CVT belt, new spark plugs that are upgraded iridium plugs, as well as the CVT belt changing tool. You can also just buy the belt by itself and you can add the tool to your order. Here's a link to our website. We ship anywhere in the US.
www.blrtuning.co/products/can-am-ryker-900-rally-sport-cvt-replacement-belt-dynojet-power-series
@@BLRTUNING thanks Bill this will be going on the wife's we ride mostly mountain curves and cruising around. She hardly ever spins a wheel but she does outrun most 2 wheelers we ride with in the mountain curves. The OEM belt is at 18000 and still pulling strong but 18000 is as far as I want to take the OEM belt with her riding it for safety reasons. I only let it go this long because I ride it every now and then to feel if it lost any performance as she wouldn't know how to tell. Will be measuring it when I take it off to see how close it is to brp specs. Someone had to be the giny pig lol. So I would say she could comfortably go another 18000 on those belts then. I have talked with another guy that run the gates carbon and got longer life out of it as well. He goes 18000 on his with the gates as well. Just for information purposes. I am with you if someone doesn't know what they are doing and willing to suffer the consequences then they need to stick to the 12000 brp recommended. I am not advocating anyone go what we are doing without some knowledge of how these belts work and how the person rides the bike.
@@BLRTUNING I also seen they make a duro series belt too. Wonder how it compares to the OEM. She does not do any hard takeoffs and the performance is stock. I have upgraded the handling quite a bit for her with expensive upgrades that is how she outruns everyone in the turns lol.
The dura series belt would be more comparable to the factory belt.
@@BLRTUNING so in your believe does the power series just offer performance or do you believe under normal casual riding it will last longer?
Question, I purchased my 22 Ryker 900 ACE and the dealer told me it was shaft driven. Does a shaft driven Ryker still have a CVT belt too? Sorry for the stupid question.
Yes the drive shaft goes from the transmission back to the rear wheel. The transmission gets turned from the motor using a CVT belt to turn the lower wheel which then goes to the drive shaft. So it is a CVT transmission and then the rear wheel is shaft driven from the CVT transmission. So yes it's still uses a CVT belt. If you ever decide to upgrade your belt I highly recommend checking out the dynojet power series belts. We have them available on our website. They grab harder than the stock factory belt and they will Outlast the stock factory belt. www.blrtuning.co
@@BLRTUNING sounds good, thank you for the information
Dear bill was riding my bike day transmision light came on. Does this mean belt need replacing
If it says belt maintenance required or something along those lines then yes or transmission maintenance required then yes most likely belt needs replaced. We carry dino jet power series belts on our website. They're currently on sale for this month
www.blrtuning.co
Thanks as always but how do you take the code off without a pv3?
For that type of work you would have to go to your dealership or service center they have to use the buds computer system in order to remove the code and reset the belt life. The dinojet pd3 which we carry on our website does all that for you.. that's the beauty of owning a pv3. You don't have to use it to tune your vehicle. If you don't want to have your vehicle making more horsepower and more torque you can simply keep it put away in a drawer somewhere for safekeeping and use it as a tool for working on the bike. It's a very worthwhile investment. I can't tell you how many trips to the dealership I have saved myself just by owning a pv3 and being able to do this type of clearing the codes and reading the codes myself at home.
Here's a direct link to the Dynojet pv3. Just in case you want to take a look at it on our website.
www.blrtuning.co/products/can-am-ryker-pv3-25-11-by-dynojet
Thanks much keep up the great work I'm going to look into it I'm not too techy but I'm good with my hands thanks again God bless brother
Hopefully my videos will help you with the tech part. If you ever have any questions don't hesitate to reach out to me. You can always get a hold of me via email as well. From there we can exchange contact information and be able to talk more on a personal level than here on youtube.
blrtuning.tech@gmail.com
Great Job as usual.
Thank you buddy. We are working on getting a better performance belt like this one for the 600 models...
@@BLRTUNING Great that will make the 6er clan happy.
Hey I made that mistake and dropped those clam shell nuts ...of course I don't see them anywhere. Where can I buy more and what is the proper name for them so I can search? Thanks
Sorry for the late reply I'm not sure where you would purchase them. Perhaps find a couple others on the bike that are the same size and take them to a hardware store near you so they can find you the right ones. I wish I had a better answer.
Hi Bill if I purchase the Dyno from your website and the tune does it come installed already?
Yes absolutely if you order a pv3 for your Can-Am ryker directly through our website and select custom tune with it it will be pre-installed on your pv3. You won't have to use a computer or anything like that all you will do is plug it into your bike select the custom tune and hit flash tune let the process complete and that is it you are done. Remember if you want to mount it to your vehicle we do carry the mounting system for it as well. You can select a handlebar mount or a body panel mount. This way you can install the pv3 onto the vehicle and leave it mounted on the vehicle and use the custom gauge screen. The custom gauge screen will allow you to view and monitor things like air to fuel ratio, engine coolant temperature, battery voltage, throttle position, rpm, there is tons of stuff that you can monitor and view through the gauges using four gauges at a time per screen. Remember everything will come with a QR code that you can scan with your smartphone camera and it will take you straight to the install video. If you place an order for a pv3 with a custom tune please send us an email directly afterwards so we can make contact with you and get all the details about the tuning work that you're after. You'll see various options for the custom tuning work if you don't see one that lists your exact parts then select the very bottom option that says I don't see my parts I need a custom tune. When you send us an email please leave away for me to contact you if I need to. A phone number is awesome or just an email address something like that. We need to know if you have a nickname for your vehicle, we need to know the year make and model of your vehicle, we need to know a list of all of your modifications as far as performance parts. This means exhaust, headers, ram air intake system, K&N high flow replacement filter, modified air box, modified air inlet scoop. These are the parts I need to know about to build the custom tune correctly...
Below is the email address to send us an email so we can make contact with each other.
blrtuning.tech@gmail.com
You can purchase the pd3 on our website remember you can always click the little ryker icon to get back to the home screen....
www.blrtuning.co
So, I recently installed mine. I did the break-in procedure and everything. Is it normal for it to be a bit jerky at low speeds (Especially in reverse)?
Yes a CVT transmission is not the smoothest for sure. The bike has to climb up to a specific RPM before the belt grabs so at low RPM you might feel the belt grab and then let go and then grab and let go again over and over. So yes that would be perfectly normal. When you first go to take off and you're revving up the throttle slowly you may even feel or hear a clunk sound from the transmission. That's just the belt grabbing and engaging. All the noises for the most part are perfectly normal. If you start hearing any kind of rattling sound that gets louder as you give it the gas that would be the rollers and that would mean that the rollers have broken or the helix is damaged. Other than that CVT transmissions are not quiet and they are not usually smooth.
Thank you for responding so quickly. Yeah, I’ve always noticed a little jerking with the stock belt. It’s just a lot more prominent now, I guess because the grip is so much stronger with the Dyno Belt.
@Doomfreak90 The Dynojet belt does grab harder than the stock factory belt. So yes everything about it will be more pronounced than the factory belt.
In other words…… Traffic’s gonna really suck. 😂
Howdy. Are you still offering free tuning codes for folks that buy the PV3 using your code? I need to replace my belt and might as well invest in this now to reset my code and do future work
You can order a PV3 through our website and you can purchase it with a custom tune. If you purchase with a custom tune we can offer 10% off by using discount code: BLUEDRAGON
This link will take you to the Pv3 on our website be sure to check the box that says yes I want a custom tune.
www.blrtuning.co/products/can-am-ryker-pv3-25-11-by-dynojet
yep that’s what I did already! I saw in the video description you are offering to share tuning codes. I’m curious about that is what I meant to say!
We charge for tuning but we do offer a discount if you're ordering the PV3 with a tune... The tune is built specifically for your modifications on your bike. The PV3 can clear the CVT belt maintenance code without a custom tune though. If you decide to go that route. If you want more horsepower and more torque then tuning would be the biggest performance modification that you can do to these bikes as they are very locked down from the factory.
Hi Bill.
When I try and do a burnout my Ryker will stop it saying uts going into belt saver mode?
When I was in stop and go traffic on hwy 30 in rainier my Ryker would constantly jerk when trying to stay at a slow speed? Is any of this normal?
I don't think that it's normal. How many miles are on the bike? Perhaps maybe your belt is worn out. Is the bike tuned with the Dynojet pv3?
@@BLRTUNING 600 miles on it and its always clunking on takeoff. I have a 7yr warranty.
@@NFLHITMAN I would definitely be taking it back something's not right
Do you like the Dyna Jet brand better than the belts sold by Treal?
I've never used the belts that they carry so I would not be able to comment on that. I have used the Dynojet Power series belts. We were testing them last summer at the drag strip and they have held up tremendously well. Better than OEM.. these are the same belts that are used on side by sides that are making 200 plus horsepower. They are designed for high performance machines.
You can purchase them on our website.. www.blrtuning.co
Hey Bill. Got a couple questions…. Gonna email you.
Okay I'll keep an eye out for the email
So I have a question, you seem to be very knowledgeable with Rykers. My wife had a 2020 Rally Edition. It had issues when going through curves, felt like it was cutting the power through the curve, very annoying when trying to ride more spirited. So we traded that for a 2022 Rally, it seems to be doing the same thing, we have a case open CanAm, but as of yet, there is no resolution. So, have you heard of or dealt with this? If so, have you been able to determine the cause or have a solution? I'm leaning towards, the YAW sensor, thoughts?
Definitely the yaw rate sensor
@@BLRTUNING I believe that as well, I ride a ZX6R, so I love the curves and my wife does as well. But, it sucks when she is trying to ride more aggressively and the bike won't let her. Do you know of a solution? Thank you for any help sir.
Replace the yaw rate sensor
Where are you located? I have a Can-Am 2019 that probably needs a belt.
Thank you
But where are you located?
We are located in Vancouver Washington. When you purchase a belt from us we do offer install for $100 ... A dealership will usually charge around $350 not counting the price of the belt. Our Dynojet power series belts are around $180... You can always order a belt through our website if you are not local to us and we can ship one out to you along with the CVT belt changing tool. The TH-cam installation video will walk you through the process. You can always scroll to the bottom of our website and click on the contact icon You should see a phone number and email address. Send us an email or give us a call.
www.blrtuning.co
gracias¡¡¡¡
Great video! Cool idea for the next video is a primary clutch and secondary clutch removal and cleaning? Im sure it would be much appreciated for those who have never played around with cvt transmissions! Maybe play around with weights and or springs for those people who are making more power?
It's a work in progress. We couldn't show too much in this video... Still testing some things out
@@BLRTUNING still much appreciated! I am waiting for my belt removal tool to arrive and I will be diving into the clutches and hopefully pulling the primary clutch off. Will also see if a CVTech trailbloc primary clutch will mount up! Just have to verify crank shaft taper
@@michaeldavidblunt well just don't forget we do carry the new Power series belts on our website. There's a link in the description below this video.. if you want something a little heavier duty than the OEM.
I replaced my belt because it was squealing loud on take offs and stopping. But on the test drive from replacing it, it still sqeaks. Do you have any suggestions? Will the secondary clutch get out of sync and drag it through the primary? Thanks in advance!
?
Yes it definitely sounds like you need clutch work not just a belt replacement
It could be damage done to the rollers in the secondary clutch might not have anything to do with the belt. Typically these don't squeal aftermarket or stock when it comes to the CVT belt once they're worn out they just slip
@@BLRTUNING That's a probability for sure! Changing the belt did nothing to fix the squeal. The bike only has 800 miles, so I'm taking in. Thank you for the heads up!
@@SPROCK3TMONST3R did the clutch go bad? What happened?
@@benfrank1583 My Can-Am dealer said they couldn't replicate the issue in their test drive. So they wouldn't do anything else. But of coarse it squealed on the way home, and ever since. I know the secondary is hanging on to its grip, when it should be in idle. Bill is probably right about a roller or somthing sticking. But my dealer wants video of it happening, before they will open the bike up at all. They told me that the warranty won't cover the diagnostic fees, and they are trying to "save me money". I guess I need to drive an hour to the next dealer and see if they will help. The bike has just over 800 miles, so this is a bit frustrating!
If I change my belt on my Ryker and don’t have a tuner will it throw a code
No it will not throw a coat if you change the belt. However once your service belt maintenance code comes up on your dash you will have to take it to a dealership or service center and have them plug their buds computer system in it to clear that code unless you have a pv3.
Thanks bud
I wonder if (in an emergency) could you sand the sides of the belt and continue to use the old belt until it is replaced with a new one?
No because as it gets thinner and thinner it rides down further and further in the groove on the pulley causing the bike to lose top end and torque. Also the pulley would not be able to pinch it correctly like it's supposed to therefore it would cause additional wear on the belt. It's kind of a crazy thing the way these CVT belts work. Basically once they're worn out they start deteriorating even quicker and quicker as about gets more worn and more worn. This is what a lot of people mistakenly do by not replacing the belt when they actually needed to then we see the belt explode and cause even more damage and more money's worth of damage than a new belt itself.
Bill is there any minor differences in the ace & the rally? In particularly the lip under the seat on the rally
Nope there's no difference. The rally comes with different suspension and different wheels and tires and the max Mount is already installed other than that no differences whatsoever. You do get the extra drive mode for the rally model which just allows a little bit more tire slip..
The street tires that come on the 900 Ace will outperform the all-terrain tires that come on the rally if you're on the street. So just keep that in mind. If you don't plan on taking it in the dirt don't get the rally. Or get the rally and put the wheels and tires from the 900 on it... If you only plan on driving on the road
I'm thinking about putting a different tire than the kenda on the rear. Any suggestions?
@@daontetrotter1 I don't recommend anything but the factory rated tire. Those are the only tires that would be keeping the bike covered under any insurance claims also. And remember if you're going to run a rear tire from an automobile like a car or truck you have to make sure it's not steel braided. Imagine a steel braided tire coming unglued down the freeway and the steel braids whipping you in the back of the head. Not fun there's a reason the Kenda tires are what are put on the bike. BRP has a deal with Kenda and those are the only tires that are certified by BRP therefore I cannot recommend running anything different..
The reason I asked is because I heard some of the spyders have yokohama tires from the factory and I heard they perform better but I see your point
?? just what would happen if the belt broke would it bend or break anything I ask cause the belt is a big thick boy to start with and the ones I have seen taken off still look new and 10K milage is nothing for a belt like that. the old v belts would break and be in the streets but the newer serpentine belts hold up much better, is this can am just covering its ass over nothing
A lot of people don't understand how the belt wears out. It gets thinner on the sidewalls of the belt and becomes more of a V shape riding lower and lower in the pulleys. This means less and less power and less and less top end as the belt wears down. The belt will always be thick even a worn-out belt will still sometimes show almost the same thickness as far as inside to outside thickness but left to right thickness the width of the belt is where it gets worn out. It also becomes glazed over to where it can no longer grip hold of the pulley like it did originally. If a belt explodes it can cause tons of damage. The last one that we worked on that had a belt blow up on them because they didn't change it when they were supposed to destroyed the transmission housing and part of the actual case that the transmission sits in. You're talking like $2,000 in damage just because they didn't want to change a $200 belt. If you like doing burnouts and riding hard then you need to change the belt earlier than what is recommended by can-am. Can-Am recommends every 12,000 miles. That would be normal everyday driving from a person that weighs 180 lb or less that is doing the speed limit and driving like a normal person. That is where they're 12,000 mile Mark is registered for that type of writing with that type of body weight. I'm a 220 lb aggressive Rider. The belt that I'm showing me taking off in this video is completely destroyed. The bike would not go past 90 miles an hour if you ripped the throttle at about 60 MPH you could physically feel the belt slipping. It was overdue for changing but I was trying to make sure that I could show in video what a worn out belt looks like. It's completely glazed over and no longer grabs traction on the pulley. It's definitely not worth the risk of pushing it past what it's supposed to be done at. The damage we've seen is crazy. If it blows up on you on the freeway it could be the last time that you ride the bike.
These Dynojet power series belts that I'm showing off are also used on 200 horsepower all wheel drive side by sides. They are very heavy duty and they are way stickier and grippier than the factory OEM belt. They are designed to take the abuse that some of us decide to put these bikes through. Even still we will change the belt every 12,000 miles has recommended or sooner. Having this heavier duty belt means we can get away with riding it a little harder and actually having the belt last the way we want it to. We carry the belts on our website if it's time to change your belt then it is what it is. It's not worth waiting until it explodes on you trust me I've seen it multiple times...
I'm not saying all this so you'll go by a belt for me. If I don't get a sale from you that's perfectly fine do your research there's lots of belt options out there. All I'm saying is change the belt at 12,000 miles if you ride it like normal at about 8,000 or 9,000 miles if you abuse the hell out of it like I do.
www.blrtuning.co
What kind of headers do you have on ur bike
For now that is classified information.
You and treal are killing me lol I’ve been fucking with the treal owner to hurry up and make some headers for the Ryker
@@johnfink1322 you're not the only one
Any torque values for all of the hardware you removed?
Doing the custom tuning on these bikes is by far the biggest performance modification you could possibly do. These bikes are very locked down from the factory. It's about a 30% increase in torque and about an extra 10 horsepower along with removing the top speed limit cap and raising the rev limit. These bikes Cruise really good once they are tuned. If you have any questions about custom tuning you can reach out to me through any of my contact information that's in the link in the description below this video or go over to our website and scroll down to the bottom of the page.
www.blrtuning.co
Bill
Can you help me I did everything but my belt isn’t adjusting itself and black piece is pushing itself back in flush
What tool are you using to loosen the tension on the pulley is it the same tool I'm showing in the video?
@@BLRTUNING yes sir it’s not self adjusting itself when I turned the disc and when I ride it
It’s not coming up the pulley
It’s not coming all the way out
When I open up case my belt was loose sitting inside of it
Put new belt in and it won’t tighten
Are those belts as durable as the brp belts?
They are heavy duty made for high performance machines
I'm gonna try changing my belt whenever I get my bike back from the shop. I had an exhaust leak & coolant reservoir was leaking as well
I need the 600cc
Check out our website the belt now fits the 600 as well and has been documented that it is indeed working perfect. So we have relisted it on our website as fitting all models and all years. Sorry for the late reply to your comment.
www.blrtuning.co/products/can-am-ryker-900-rally-sport-cvt-replacement-belt-dynojet-power-series
Not "POLICE" LMAO
I can’t get my helium to flush
I'm assuming that's a typo and I'm guessing you mean Helix...
Try putting the back tire up in the air. So you can rotate it. You could also try moving the gear shift forward and reverse lever in between forward and reverse. Just keep in mind never start the vehicle when it's in this position as it can destroy stuff. When you have it in between forward and reverse it will act kind of like a false and neutral. You should then be able to rotate the upper clutch assembly in reverse. Spending it counterclockwise if you are looking at the face of it. This should get the Helix to come back out to being flush.
@@BLRTUNING thank u! Imma try it in the morning! My bike stop accelerating and it’s driving me crazy
@KruellaDaDevil this could be a damaged Helix, the rollers in the primary clutch could be damaged, it could also be the spring behind the helix is broken. So definitely take a look at everything. These are all considered whear parts. When they wear out you're supposed to replace them. They are not permanent parts on the bike. The clutch has a lot of components to it that need to be replaced every once in a while.
@@BLRTUNING the rollers aren’t there anymore! I have them but they aren’t on the bike! Hadn’t been there in since I changed the belt last year! I’m worried now!
Yes definitely inspect the rollers. If they are missing time to do a Google search and find a place to purchase them.
Ghetto watch
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