Laugavegur Day 5: Þórsmörk to Skógar (28km) | Fimmvörðuháls

I started the hike at 8am and finished at 10pm.
My total "moving time" was 8.5 hours, but "elapsed time" 14 hours.
I spent a lot of time with filming and time-lapse photos.
And towards the end of the hike I just needed more and more breaks as I felt exhausted.
I burned over 3511 calories...
Fimmvörðuháls is the name of the plateau between Þórsmörk and Skógar.
The plateau elevation ranges beween 1000 and 1056m.
To me it felt and looked "the highest" at the start and at the end of the plateau, because that's where you have the views "down".
But if my Garmin/GPS is right, the highest point is on the southern side of the plateau, looking down towards Skógar/ocean.
The first 2km of the hike was just getting from the "Volcano Huts" to the "Langidalur" hut.
So staying at Langidalur gives you a little bit of head start in the morning.
The actual trail head is at the "Básar" hut, another 2km from Langidalur. You can also choose that as your starting point.
I could have saved 4km in the morning by staying at Básar.
But I had picked the "Volcano Huts" because of the day-off and the dayhikes I wanted to do.
Just after Básar the actual "uphill" part starts, from 250m elevation up to 1000m.
Then it is around 3km on the plateau which is very exposed to wind and can of course have snow or snowfields to cross.
I would say that part is the most dangerous, because in bad weather you can lose orientation very easily.
With normal visibility and not too much snow it is no problem though.
At the end of the plateau it is 1km steep downhill until you reach the small "Baldvinsskáli" hut where you can find shelter in bad weather.
From there the long downhill part starts, it is another 13km to Skógar.
The trail is technically not "difficult", but I would say it is more difficult than all the previous days of the Laugavegur.
So let's call it "medium difficult".
Some parts are very rocky, or very steep, also some exposed sections.
You need a least some basic balance, "sure-footedness" and good physical fitness.
I go hiking in the Alps a lot, but very rarely a hike is longer than 15km.
So 28km with heavy luggage was very challenging for me!
Just to give you an orientation in case you plan to do this hike as a "beginner".
Physical fitness is important because the hike is very long and in parts steep.
It is 10km from Básar to Baldvinsskáli and then another 13km to Skógar.
If you are a beginner I suggest you try to stay 1 night at Baldvinsskáli, you have to book many months ahead though.
A few more extra words about the "chains section", just before the last steep climb up to the plateau.
I read a lot about that section and that people worry about it.
In my case it was no problem, because the weather was very good.
Just a bit windy and I had to make sure to not lose balance with that heavy backpack.
Going uphill I found the chains pretty useless.
There was no tension on them, in parts they were just lying on the ground.
So you can't really use them to pull yourself up.
I simply ignored the chains and made sure I focus on my steps and on using my hands if possible.
Going downhill I can imagine the chains can give you some "safety" or at least a feeling of safety if you grab them with one hand.
But I cannot "guarantee" that they safe you if you fall, there is simply not enough tension.
If there is snow or ice on the "chains section" it is dangerous!
You will need crampons and experience!
Just be smart and don't risk your life!
Also be extra careful in or after rain, as rocks can be slippery.
On the plateau it was a bit more busy with people, not sure why.
Many hikers with small backpacks, sometimes just in jeans and trainers.
They didn't really look as if they were hiking all the way to Þórsmörk.
Also it is way too far for a tourist dayhike from Skógar.
So maybe there was a jeep or minivan bringing them up to Baldvinsskáli?
I don't know.
Before the plateau it was not busy and same than on the other Laugavegur days it was easy to be "alone".
Also after Baldvinsskáli there were just 6 other people all the way to Skógar. Maybe because it was late in the day.
It was amazing to hike along the Skóga river with all those waterfalls, but without all the day tourists.
Strava:
/ strava
Official trail information:
www.fi.is/en/h...
www.fi.is/en/h...
Weather forecast:
en.vedur.is/we...
www.featherytr...
#iceland #laugavegur #fimmvörðuháls
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Credits:
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Videos, editing and production:
Matthias Grallert
Typo corrections:
R.Shida
Music:
Just the sound of nature, my footsteps and occasionally some coughing and sniffing ;-)

[@mgrallert]

I messed up: I wanted to show you the "chains section downhill" view a bit longer in the video.
But now you will have to pause the video, if you are interested in that specific info (sorry...):
7:30: the view with the text
7:38: the view without the text

[@ianwoods4020]

Thanks for the information and replies

[@oleksandrvdovin7886]

Absolutely beautifully! I want to repeat. Where did you get drinking water? How was the mobile and internet connection on the route? Did you use a navigator or was it marked and clear well? And how did you get to Reykjavik from the last point? Thank you.

[@mgrallert]

Hi!😀 I got drinking water in the huts on the way. On day1 you come past "Hrafntinnusker" hut, day 2 "Hvanngil" hut, day 3 filled up from a river (most water is fine to drink, unless it is "smelly"), day 4 "Baldvinsskáli" hut. I actually wasn't that thirsty. Mobile/internet connection was surprisingly good, just before Emstrur not so good. At the huts I always had connection. The trail is marked super well, can't get lost. But I also used a map on my phone, gps works without mobile connection. From Skógar to Reykjavík I used 2 buses: first "Straeto" bus nr 51 16:00 from Skógar to Hvollsvöllur, then changed to "Reykjavík Excursions" 17:40 to Reykjavík ... 👍

[@oleksandrvdovin7886]

​@@mgrallertthank you for your answer. Your videos are very beautiful. Good luck!

[@ianwoods4020]

Can you camp in a tent at Baldvinskalli hut 14kms between Porsmork and Skogar? I can not hike so far with 15/20 kgs on my back

[@mgrallert]

Hi! Yes should be allowed. Baldvinsskáli is an official "FÍ" hut (Iceland Touring Association) and camping is allowed at all of their huts. They even mention Baldvinsskáli here: www.fi.is/en/mountain-huts/camping . But to be 100% sure I would send them an email, they are usually quick responding. There is a second hut up there, called "Fimmvörðuháls hut". I don't know about camping there, but if you look up Baldvinsskáli and Fimmvörðuháls huts on Google Maps you find many photos with tents around both huts. One "warning" though: It is VERY exposed up there and can get super windy, wind is very common on the Fimmvörðuháls. So I would be hesitant to camp there. If I was you I would try to book a "bed" in one of the huts, just to be safe against bad weather. Even if you have booked/payed a bed, you can still decide to camp outside "for fun" 😁

[@ianwoods4020]

@@mgrallert Hi thanks for the reply, I will email them to make sure, My Lan shan tent has held up in 50 to 60 MPH winds before in Snowdonia and in Hardangervidda national park in Norway, , but that is with 6x strong delta pegs in the ground, I can imagine I would be often relying on rocks on this trail, and best that I take my Panacea pole tent, and book the hut if it is exposed up there!, thank for the information, I will take note of the huts!

[@mgrallert]

@@ianwoods4020 Yeah, Iceland camping is mostly rocky ground... Btw: I am planning to do 7 days Hardangervidda next August. Thanks for reminding me, that it can be very windy there...😮

[@ianwoods4020]

@@mgrallert Fantastic, I hope to get there again this year, but maybe in the wetter season of September