This is not reality. Those bearing hubs don't come off that easy if you live in climate that has cold weather, salt and snow. You need a bearing buster bar, 4" bolts 1/2 inch thick washers and nuts to force the hub out. Also a slide hammer and pry bar.
This video never states it is for front wheels and brakes. The torque spec for front brake caliper slide pins are 53 ft-lb, and for the rear brake caliper slide pins, it is 24ft-lbs. Well I am doing the rear wheel bearings and have now just snapped my slide pins trying to torque to 53. So disappointing. Please state which end of the vehicle you are working on, so this doesn't happen to others
You should put anti seize on the hub before replacing it into the knuckle. The next guy will thank you. Especially if you live in a salt belt like we do. These wheel bearings need replacing every 50-70k miles typically
So much of this is horrible advice but I'll help ya, never impact a axle nut like you did initially, you clearly didn't replace the axle nut when saying it should always be replaced, it doesn't need replaced btw when you use blue loctite on axle nuts, antisieze all hub bolts and wheel sensor bolts. Not to mention TRQ parts are just repackaged garbage from Korean and Chinese suppliers. Never had a good experience especially when a hub fails in 4 months and you won't warranty them. Spend the extra money and get quality parts, it'll save you money and the time of having to replace parts twice. If a customer brings me any TRQ parts I provide no warranty on labor and they always come back with the same issue.
Damnit I wish I could of seen the struggle when you tried to remove the wheel bearing after all the bolts were off
This is not reality. Those bearing hubs don't come off that easy if you live in climate that has cold weather, salt and snow. You need a bearing buster bar, 4" bolts 1/2 inch thick washers and nuts to force the hub out. Also a slide hammer and pry bar.
The good thing about that T40 bolt he pulled out the rotor is that the metal strips quicker than gold digger
This video never states it is for front wheels and brakes. The torque spec for front brake caliper slide pins are 53 ft-lb, and for the rear brake caliper slide pins, it is 24ft-lbs. Well I am doing the rear wheel bearings and have now just snapped my slide pins trying to torque to 53. So disappointing. Please state which end of the vehicle you are working on, so this doesn't happen to others
Does the axle actually slide off that easily every time?
I’m worried it won’t separate nicely?
You should put anti seize on the hub before replacing it into the knuckle. The next guy will thank you. Especially if you live in a salt belt like we do. These wheel bearings need replacing every 50-70k miles typically
Great video!
I am finding a front axle nut torque of 184 ft/lbs (2019 Explorer FWD 3.5L)
is the rear hub the same process?
Y'all have videos on brake conversions
+Jonathan Couch We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
What kind of 90 angle impact driver or drill/screwgun was that? Milwaukee or makita?
So much of this is horrible advice but I'll help ya, never impact a axle nut like you did initially, you clearly didn't replace the axle nut when saying it should always be replaced, it doesn't need replaced btw when you use blue loctite on axle nuts, antisieze all hub bolts and wheel sensor bolts. Not to mention TRQ parts are just repackaged garbage from Korean and Chinese suppliers. Never had a good experience especially when a hub fails in 4 months and you won't warranty them. Spend the extra money and get quality parts, it'll save you money and the time of having to replace parts twice. If a customer brings me any TRQ parts I provide no warranty on labor and they always come back with the same issue.
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