Tim, just to let you know... To Solution Anneal Inconel, you do it like you would copper: Heat it up to betwixt 1700-1850°F/925-1010˚C and quench it in water. You can also Precipitation Harden it by bringing it up to 1325°F for 8 hours, furnace (You can use a Kiln for this also) cool to 1150°F, hold at 1150°F for a total aging time of 18 hours, followed by air cooling. Seems like an Interesting, yet deceptively simple way for heat treating it... then there's that quote I heard somewhere that says "Simple is often better" So there is that :)
Well I figured there was an offhand way of annealing Inconel due to it's nickel content... That and nickel also work hardens... Similar to copper, then you have the titanium content which can also be Precipitation Hardened... I just didn't know the exact temperatures until I looked it up.... And Tim Must be doing something right as it's really tough to form under a press and power hammer... Not personal experience mind you just what I've read around the interwebs, I'm sort of a research geek that way :)
Jynx474, since you like a little extra knowledge, Inconel 718 was designed to have higher strength than stainless steels at elevated temperatures up to 1200°F, while keeping enough ductility to be able to absorb a mechanical shock. It is strengthened from its anneal state by the formation of a gamma prime precipitate, which begins to occur between 1100°F and 1200°F. The gamma prime precipitate will dissolve back into the nickel matrix if the material is heated above about 1350° to 1400°F. The heat treatment on the web and in the material specifications is designed to put the material in a condition for a particular end use; i.e. a part of a turbine engine. The anneal is used to allow an equalization of the grain structure from the hot or cold work condition and can be anywhere between 1850°F and 1925°F. The quoted 1700°F temperature is included to allow for putting the gamma prime back into solution without having unwanted grain growth. The higher the temperate used to anneal and the longer it is at temperature about 1850°F (more like 1825°F), the bigger the grains will get, which will won't allow for maximum hardness. The precipitation process also can be understood by knowing the 1325°F for 8 hours step allows the initiation and growth of the gamma prime particles, by lowering the temperature to 1150°F and holding it for a long time, the formed particles are allowed to congregate and grow in size, but it is not hot enough to allow for much new particle initiation. This helps the alloy to retain some measure of ductility, while adding strength through the gamma prime pinning the matrix. Although it can seem like a super stainless steel, Inconel 718 was not designed to be used at ambient temperature and the properties are definitely not optimized for making blades. If the material where to be work hardened, annealed at a low temperature (below 1800°F so that it retains its worked structure), and then is hardened at 1325°F for much longer than 8 hours to form many, large gamma prime precipitates, it still would only attain a hardness of maybe 40-45 HRc. Unfortunately, I don't believe Tim's equipment is capable of holding the temperature tolerances needed to manipulate the strengthening mechanism in this alloy. Typical industrial heat treatment furnace usually hold a +/- 25°F and as tight as a +/- 10°F tolerance over the entire part. Additionally, nickel based alloys almost always prefer a water quench after an annealing. Unlike steels where they change structure from martensitic to a ferritic as they cool, most nickel alloys can make all sorts of undesired phases as they slow cool. Definitely not simple!
@@danielhunt6545 This. This is why I love the internet. I can read about the properties of things I'll never touch from people who have. This isn't something you just hear at the coffee table at your local morning café.
To anneal INCONEL alloy 718 heat to 1700-1850°F and quench in water, hardening is done at 1325°F for 8 hours, cool to 1150°F and hold for 18 hours, followed by air cooling.
The shop I work runs inconel daily and we do our own heat treat in house. You had asked about hardening the blade yeaterday and the basics of it are to take it to 1400 f for like 12+ hours. It's called precipitate hardening and you need a furnace. Lots of info online about this
@@codygrimm8791 Inconel is just weird; the usual treatment (specified in the datasheets, even) is to dissolve everything up by heating it to 1750F-1950F, quench (which will leave it soft), and then harden by going to the 1400F or so temperature for long enough for different phases to precipitate out of solution; the multiple different phases then are what stops dislocations from moving in the metal and gives it it's strength. Decidedly not iron-like.
Thank you for displaying my soon to be handled Hudson Bay. I was also impressed that you got my name right. It’s amazing how often that gets mispronounced.
Always good to see and learning from your videos timmothy. You always teach me something new in your videos. Because you always test your self on forging and metals. Can't wait to see what you do next. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend timmothy. Forge on. Keep planning. Keep designing. Keep testing. Keep making. God bless.
I've never messed with that type of material before but since it worked hardens. I wonder if you can use the same method they use on bronze to harden the edge when they make knives and swords with bronze.
The bend is possibly because of one of inconel's properties, the oxide layer is very hard (and resistant) and maybe you removing it let out some tension that caused the bar to cup like that?
This seems likely to me, knives and swords often bend when I grind the scale off one side after heat treat. More often than not they'll straighten back to their "pre-grinding" form once the other side also has the scale removed.
Love the content. Inconel is the worst alloy for making a knife. We used it for cruise missle engines; high temp and corrosive enviroments/fuels. Many much better materials to make cutting blades from. Cannot beat high carbon steels. keep up the cool episodes.
Inconel® 718 is typically purchased in the mill- or solution-annealed condition. In some instances, it has a stress-relief operation performed on it prior to fabrication and heat treatment. ... Solution anneal at 1040-1065˚C (1900-1950˚F) followed by rapid cooling (usually in water) ---This is what google told me hope this helps Tim!!
You really need to look up Inconel in a metallurgy textbook, man... You're doing the opposite of what you need to for annealing it. it's NOT steel... it's weird $#!^... you treat it like a non-ferrous alloy to anneal it. Heat red, and quench. Wait until you try to harden it by holding it at forging temperature for TEN HOURS then soaking at barely red for another few hours.
I am sure he is busy with actual work but I do find it a bit odd that he hasn't done any research on the metal. Like it's giving him so much trouble over multiple projects and he just asks his viewers, and decides that he is just going to try stuff and see what happens. Like it's not a big deal but it's a bit weird.
I once thought I'd be a smart ass and TIG weld stainless infill to replace the chintsy wooden inlay on a rather nice folding knife I had. By the time I was done with one scale, the whole piece had shrunk about 5mm in length. Never underestimate the ability of metal to distort when stresses are added or removed.
Also your fly cutter pressing down plus the overhang equaled bent inconel. The overhang was your downfall. Use machinist blocks to support the overhang next time.
Tim, Try pickling the Inconel by getting it nice and hot (up to 1010 degrees Celsius) and quenching it straight into water that should soften the Inconel up so that it is easy to work with. You might have to do this a few times as your working on the knife.
Although i haven't worked with specifically inconel. I have run into issues with forgings where if you machine enough off one side it turns into a banana. the solution it to take small cuts and flip it back and forth a few times until you get under the stressed layer. Which for the work that i have done is usually less than 40 thou. However i haven't worked on inconel so this my be useless information.
You can't get subscribers if you just do the work with no commentary. This way he learns, communicates with the community, engages people into an interesting series. I'm learning as he's learning and I think it's rad!
I think it definitely warped while milling. There's an inconel part that I build that does something kinda similar. It's a square bodied sheet metal part, about .080" thick, that we cut and flat grind to fit to a flange. While grinding on a disc grinder, the long straight sections of the body would heat up in the center, expand, and once cooled and checked for flatness on a granite slab you'd have a .030 gap in the center. Crazy stuff.
I use to weld it alot, almost always butt welds. Most people have a extremely hard time with it due to the fact of how watery it is and how hard it is to see the edges of the puddle. It also cracks extremely easy if you come off the heat to fast.
Yeah wow crazy stuff, sometimes your dambed if you do and dambed if you don't lol. Tim if you haven't considered it yet, you might want to think about investing in a Plasma Cutter at some point. It's a really handy thing to have, might be a lot more easier for cutting out your knives and such ratherthanusingan angle grinder. Plasma's are great for cutting pretty much any type of metal and don't heat up the material like an Oxy does, but if you do, get one that cuts a good thickness of material, if you only get one that onky cuts thin stuff you will regret it. Anyway just a thought, love ya work🙂
That must have been due to surface residual stress that was released on the removal of surface on the machined side while contracted on the backside.. and bowed it
Yeah I've had to work this stuff for making aircraft components. Calling inconel a steel is a bit of a mental trap because you start thinking about it in terms of how you would approach a corrosion resistant or high strength steel. Inconel really has to be worked according to spec since the other elements in the material change it so much.
Is it possible that the outer layer is very stressed? Could be removing it on one side is what make it go the way of the boomerang. Maybe machining it flat isn't gonna work too well.
That's exactly what's happening, think of it as a piece of zone hardened glass (compressive stress) where there's equal compressive forces on the outside if you remove the stressed material off one side it then becomes unequal and the opposite side thats still stressed will pull on the material and bend distort it
Inconel melts at around 1400C. It’s not quite as sexy as blacksmithing it but, given all the trouble with the shaping, I wonder if it would be worthwhile to try an investment casting process. You could get it 99% of the way to final shape in cast form and then just grind off the last percent or so.
I love your videos showing such exotic materials and doing some crazy stuff with it that nobody does... for reasons but still. But it would be nice if you read a little into the material properties and what inconel does and what it does not. There is no "normalization" with inconel. It has has no such phase changes as steel has. Work hardening can still be relieved by glowing but that's a recrystallization. Not work hardening.
Did it expand due to the heat from machining, or did the crown appear because you removed the work-hardened surface of one side, which caused it to pull in the other direction? Do we know for sure what happened?
I have no idea how Inconel works. I was a machinist and sometimes I'd have to work on metal that had a lot of heat or tension worked into it beforehand (I assume forging could do this). If you didn't normalize the metal before machining then any cut you did would release a whole bunch of tension and the piece would bend, sometimes crazy amounts. This....might have happened with your knife?
Something tells me you're gonna have to anneal a lot between grinding to get that thickness down and be able to sand it. Looks like it work hardens reaaaaallly easy at a fairly low temp.
I wonder if the warp was a stress relief thing. Whether the tensile stress in the side you machine off was removed leaving only the residual surface tensile stress on the other side which caused it to bend? Hmmm
Toyota used inconel for exhaust manifold studs on some cars in 80's and 90's. Generally they held up very well but sometimes the threads would take damage from someone over tightening or replacing the original nut with a ferrous one that would then damage the threads on the stud, the stuff is weird like that. I couldnt say what alloy they use but I can usually weld to it with std steel mig wire, I suspect it would work with stainless as well, otherwise its been a nightmare every time i've had to extract a damaged one. 1/8" is all the further it ever wants to drill, 1/4-3/8 might happen but you're sharpening bits to gain fractions of a mm at a time and going after it with die grinder and small stones for an hour has been the only way forward i've found with the stuff a few times. It seems to cut reasonable if it can be quench annealed but thats not an option when its seized in alum. Methods of hardening involve holding it at a high temp for a long period of time in a specified atmosphere, so I'd assume just heating it with the presence of air has to do with why the outside layer stays somewhat machinable and why the bar took a curve after some of that layer was taken off. Not sure how much id expect of it for cutting edges, seems more suited to the same high temp situations stainless would be used but with capability of holding up tensile strength at higher temps yet. It just seems to get very tough as in abrasion resistant to the point of stopping carbide but at the same time it can still be bent as we just seen, so what good is a seriously hard knife edge that can still be bent thus blunting the blade? Will it be harder to roll the edge on an inconel blade than it is to damage a good stainless or tool steel blade, will be interesting to see.
I was like, and then um, you know the thing... I mean listen, we all know what we know and we all know that.. So its all there when you want it if you want it. Man...
If this knife goes up for sell, I wish I could afford it. Only because she to the cost, I'd put on my wall. There's people putting various swords on their wall, and I'll have this small knife.
Okay so there is no confusion on my part. I work with o-1 1095 1084 d2 a2 ect. Don’t know anything about this super material Tim is using so I will keep my comments to myself from now on and that way there will not be any confusion. Sorry form not knowing anything about this aerospace material. Later.
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Tim, just to let you know... To Solution Anneal Inconel, you do it like you would copper: Heat it up to betwixt 1700-1850°F/925-1010˚C and quench it in water.
You can also Precipitation Harden it by bringing it up to 1325°F for 8 hours, furnace (You can use a Kiln for this also) cool to 1150°F, hold at 1150°F for a total
aging time of 18 hours, followed by air cooling.
Seems like an Interesting, yet deceptively simple way for heat treating it... then there's that quote I heard somewhere that says "Simple is often better"
So there is that :)
Crazy, sounds almost like the complete opposite of most conventional steels! Hope Tim reads this and you help him out
Well I figured there was an offhand way of annealing Inconel due to it's nickel content... That and nickel also work hardens... Similar to copper, then you have the titanium content which can also be Precipitation Hardened... I just didn't know the exact temperatures until I looked it up....
And Tim Must be doing something right as it's really tough to form under a press and power hammer... Not personal experience mind you just what I've read around the interwebs, I'm sort of a research geek that way :)
Jynx474, since you like a little extra knowledge, Inconel 718 was designed to have higher strength than stainless steels at elevated temperatures up to 1200°F, while keeping enough ductility to be able to absorb a mechanical shock. It is strengthened from its anneal state by the formation of a gamma prime precipitate, which begins to occur between 1100°F and 1200°F. The gamma prime precipitate will dissolve back into the nickel matrix if the material is heated above about 1350° to 1400°F.
The heat treatment on the web and in the material specifications is designed to put the material in a condition for a particular end use; i.e. a part of a turbine engine. The anneal is used to allow an equalization of the grain structure from the hot or cold work condition and can be anywhere between 1850°F and 1925°F. The quoted 1700°F temperature is included to allow for putting the gamma prime back into solution without having unwanted grain growth. The higher the temperate used to anneal and the longer it is at temperature about 1850°F (more like 1825°F), the bigger the grains will get, which will won't allow for maximum hardness.
The precipitation process also can be understood by knowing the 1325°F for 8 hours step allows the initiation and growth of the gamma prime particles, by lowering the temperature to 1150°F and holding it for a long time, the formed particles are allowed to congregate and grow in size, but it is not hot enough to allow for much new particle initiation. This helps the alloy to retain some measure of ductility, while adding strength through the gamma prime pinning the matrix. Although it can seem like a super stainless steel, Inconel 718 was not designed to be used at ambient temperature and the properties are definitely not optimized for making blades. If the material where to be work hardened, annealed at a low temperature (below 1800°F so that it retains its worked structure), and then is hardened at 1325°F for much longer than 8 hours to form many, large gamma prime precipitates, it still would only attain a hardness of maybe 40-45 HRc. Unfortunately, I don't believe Tim's equipment is capable of holding the temperature tolerances needed to manipulate the strengthening mechanism in this alloy. Typical industrial heat treatment furnace usually hold a +/- 25°F and as tight as a +/- 10°F tolerance over the entire part. Additionally, nickel based alloys almost always prefer a water quench after an annealing. Unlike steels where they change structure from martensitic to a ferritic as they cool, most nickel alloys can make all sorts of undesired phases as they slow cool. Definitely not simple!
@@danielhunt6545 This. This is why I love the internet. I can read about the properties of things I'll never touch from people who have. This isn't something you just hear at the coffee table at your local morning café.
To anneal INCONEL alloy 718 heat to 1700-1850°F and quench in water, hardening is done at 1325°F for 8
hours, cool to 1150°F and hold for 18 hours, followed by air cooling.
I feel like martin deserves his own touch mark as well ,all the work he's doing for those axes
@@johnarnettsways.8758 ? Did you mean to reply to me? If so I wasn't meaning he should put it on the finished axes
@@johnarnettsways.8758 you’re missing the point on the comment you replied to. Literally has nothing to do with “edge retention “
The shop I work runs inconel daily and we do our own heat treat in house. You had asked about hardening the blade yeaterday and the basics of it are to take it to 1400 f for like 12+ hours. It's called precipitate hardening and you need a furnace. Lots of info online about this
Just by the comments alone there seems to be a lot of conflicting info. Do y'all run the same type of inconel?
This really sounds like an annealing cycle to me. Are you running sheet? If so the end goal is to soften the metal for stamping
@@codygrimm8791 Inconel is just weird; the usual treatment (specified in the datasheets, even) is to dissolve everything up by heating it to 1750F-1950F, quench (which will leave it soft), and then harden by going to the 1400F or so temperature for long enough for different phases to precipitate out of solution; the multiple different phases then are what stops dislocations from moving in the metal and gives it it's strength. Decidedly not iron-like.
Thank you for displaying my soon to be handled Hudson Bay. I was also impressed that you got my name right. It’s amazing how often that gets mispronounced.
Always good to see and learning from your videos timmothy. You always teach me something new in your videos. Because you always test your self on forging and metals. Can't wait to see what you do next. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend timmothy. Forge on. Keep planning. Keep designing. Keep testing. Keep making. God bless.
Your 2nd part is saved and cherished. Thank you for this. Wendi, UK
You may have to anneal it multiple times between grinding. Joy. Edge retention and brittlness is another unknown. Keep the glasses on.👍
I've never messed with that type of material before but since it worked hardens. I wonder if you can use the same method they use on bronze to harden the edge when they make knives and swords with bronze.
That’s freaking wild with the colors. Glad you noticed it was warped and got it fixed. Loving the new outro. Keep the forge lit buddy.
I'm so happy I'm just sharpening axes right now.
Martin?
The ducks nest on my forge is made from 3/8” incolnel.
That part of your forge may outlast the Great Pyramid...
I love these experimenting with different material videos you do!
So much content recently! Thank you and keep up the good work!
I have goten good at lip reading ever since Martin started showing up on videos
The bend is possibly because of one of inconel's properties, the oxide layer is very hard (and resistant) and maybe you removing it let out some tension that caused the bar to cup like that?
This seems likely to me, knives and swords often bend when I grind the scale off one side after heat treat. More often than not they'll straighten back to their "pre-grinding" form once the other side also has the scale removed.
Love the content. Inconel is the worst alloy for making a knife. We used it for cruise missle engines; high temp and corrosive enviroments/fuels. Many much better materials to make cutting blades from. Cannot beat high carbon steels.
keep up the cool episodes.
Inconel® 718 is typically purchased in the mill- or solution-annealed condition. In some instances, it has a stress-relief operation performed on it prior to fabrication and heat treatment. ... Solution anneal at 1040-1065˚C (1900-1950˚F) followed by rapid cooling (usually in water) ---This is what google told me hope this helps Tim!!
When you said you were going to mill it I literally said out loud, “no no no no no!”
Please explain what happened?
@@benabusthethird9751 seriously though
You really need to look up Inconel in a metallurgy textbook, man... You're doing the opposite of what you need to for annealing it. it's NOT steel... it's weird $#!^... you treat it like a non-ferrous alloy to anneal it. Heat red, and quench. Wait until you try to harden it by holding it at forging temperature for TEN HOURS then soaking at barely red for another few hours.
I am sure he is busy with actual work but I do find it a bit odd that he hasn't done any research on the metal. Like it's giving him so much trouble over multiple projects and he just asks his viewers, and decides that he is just going to try stuff and see what happens. Like it's not a big deal but it's a bit weird.
Oh good. I watched part one a couple hour ago and was disappointed that I didn't see the end result. The algorithm sent me here. Am not disappointed.
I once thought I'd be a smart ass and TIG weld stainless infill to replace the chintsy wooden inlay on a rather nice folding knife I had.
By the time I was done with one scale, the whole piece had shrunk about 5mm in length. Never underestimate the ability of metal to distort when stresses are added or removed.
Oh yeah,warped a 20x24x3/16" plate the other night. Sequence welding might be a thing!
$60 for another plate.
Also your fly cutter pressing down plus the overhang equaled bent inconel. The overhang was your downfall. Use machinist blocks to support the overhang next time.
Tim, Try pickling the Inconel by getting it nice and hot (up to 1010 degrees Celsius) and quenching it straight into water that should soften the Inconel up so that it is easy to work with. You might have to do this a few times as your working on the knife.
You need to secretly put a microphone over by Martin. Maybe we can catch him secretly talking to himself 🤣
Good stuff. Inconel is rocket combustion chamber material. To make a forged knife from this stuff is legendary...
Im fascinated by the red heat visible in the dark and blueing colours in 20Klux sunlight , I'll have to try it on a bit of steel .
Although i haven't worked with specifically inconel. I have run into issues with forgings where if you machine enough off one side it turns into a banana. the solution it to take small cuts and flip it back and forth a few times until you get under the stressed layer. Which for the work that i have done is usually less than 40 thou. However i haven't worked on inconel so this my be useless information.
This is why you should look up material properties before you work with an exotic material like inconel
You can't get subscribers if you just do the work with no commentary. This way he learns, communicates with the community, engages people into an interesting series. I'm learning as he's learning and I think it's rad!
Tim says "Now lets focus and get this knocked out...ooooo SQUIRREL!!"
ULTIMATE PROJECT IDEA... Tungsten Carbide. It would be expensive but i want to see!
Im loving this series!!! I used to weld inconel and im familiar with this metal in some ways.
I love Martin's smile
I think it definitely warped while milling. There's an inconel part that I build that does something kinda similar. It's a square bodied sheet metal part, about .080" thick, that we cut and flat grind to fit to a flange. While grinding on a disc grinder, the long straight sections of the body would heat up in the center, expand, and once cooled and checked for flatness on a granite slab you'd have a .030 gap in the center. Crazy stuff.
1300-1400f for 8 hrs then 1100 to 1200 for atleast 12 hrs more is better from what i remember
This is super exciting! What a strange metal
Cant wait to see the finish...
Inconel looks like a material that would work well for not being brittle, but id imagine doesnt keep an edge (dulls quickly).
This is such a fun project, Tim. I can’t wait to see what you can do with it!
supercool project! wild material! :)
I welded that stuff once and it's similar to titanium but has a dirty puddle.
I use to weld it alot, almost always butt welds. Most people have a extremely hard time with it due to the fact of how watery it is and how hard it is to see the edges of the puddle. It also cracks extremely easy if you come off the heat to fast.
I don't have much need for an axe, but hey if you started making ball peen or mini sledgehammers I sure would buy one!
Grind it while it's red hot. Watch the sparks but it is way faster.
Had that when milling. Mostly on coldrolled steel. Get it red hot and let it cool down really slow.
I believe in you Tim, you got this
Yeah wow crazy stuff, sometimes your dambed if you do and dambed if you don't lol.
Tim if you haven't considered it yet, you might want to think about investing in a Plasma Cutter at some point. It's a really handy thing to have, might be a lot more easier for cutting out your knives and such ratherthanusingan angle grinder. Plasma's are great for cutting pretty much any type of metal and don't heat up the material like an Oxy does, but if you do, get one that cuts a good thickness of material, if you only get one that onky cuts thin stuff you will regret it. Anyway just a thought, love ya work🙂
That must have been due to surface residual stress that was released on the removal of surface on the machined side while contracted on the backside.. and bowed it
Martin looks like the frickin terminator today!!
Great stuff as always mate 👍👍
inconel will stretch a mile, if you stop, it won't stretch another inch. ANNEAL
I'm Canadian. And you sir, have a truely incredible Canadian accent
There’s a bunch of tension built up in material. When you face thin material it tends to warp.
Can you stress relieve inconel before machining?
i think the bending from the mill was internal stresses and surface tension from forging. i don't think the material normalizes very easily.
Yeah I've had to work this stuff for making aircraft components. Calling inconel a steel is a bit of a mental trap because you start thinking about it in terms of how you would approach a corrosion resistant or high strength steel. Inconel really has to be worked according to spec since the other elements in the material change it so much.
Is it possible that the outer layer is very stressed? Could be removing it on one side is what make it go the way of the boomerang. Maybe machining it flat isn't gonna work too well.
That's exactly what's happening, think of it as a piece of zone hardened glass (compressive stress) where there's equal compressive forces on the outside if you remove the stressed material off one side it then becomes unequal and the opposite side thats still stressed will pull on the material and bend distort it
I've made a ring out of inconel.
P.s. The quench is a argon at 1000psi.
Inconel melts at around 1400C. It’s not quite as sexy as blacksmithing it but, given all the trouble with the shaping, I wonder if it would be worthwhile to try an investment casting process. You could get it 99% of the way to final shape in cast form and then just grind off the last percent or so.
I love your videos showing such exotic materials and doing some crazy stuff with it that nobody does... for reasons but still.
But it would be nice if you read a little into the material properties and what inconel does and what it does not. There is no "normalization" with inconel. It has has no such phase changes as steel has. Work hardening can still be relieved by glowing but that's a recrystallization. Not work hardening.
Did it expand due to the heat from machining, or did the crown appear because you removed the work-hardened surface of one side, which caused it to pull in the other direction? Do we know for sure what happened?
I have no idea how Inconel works. I was a machinist and sometimes I'd have to work on metal that had a lot of heat or tension worked into it beforehand (I assume forging could do this). If you didn't normalize the metal before machining then any cut you did would release a whole bunch of tension and the piece would bend, sometimes crazy amounts.
This....might have happened with your knife?
Something tells me you're gonna have to anneal a lot between grinding to get that thickness down and be able to sand it. Looks like it work hardens reaaaaallly easy at a fairly low temp.
Knew inconel would be interesting.
I work for the company that invented inconel. It's some TOUGH stuff
Awsome man!
Don't know Jack s##t about this metal so I'm glad your doing it and not me . Cheers mate . :)
More Martin!
you removed the surface tension from one side lol
This is exactly what I was thinking.
I wonder if the warp was a stress relief thing. Whether the tensile stress in the side you machine off was removed leaving only the residual surface tensile stress on the other side which caused it to bend? Hmmm
I first hear about inconel watching a show on rocket engines from nasa. I want a BBQ with burners made from this stuff.
I agree
Toyota used inconel for exhaust manifold studs on some cars in 80's and 90's. Generally they held up very well but sometimes the threads would take damage from someone over tightening or replacing the original nut with a ferrous one that would then damage the threads on the stud, the stuff is weird like that. I couldnt say what alloy they use but I can usually weld to it with std steel mig wire, I suspect it would work with stainless as well, otherwise its been a nightmare every time i've had to extract a damaged one. 1/8" is all the further it ever wants to drill, 1/4-3/8 might happen but you're sharpening bits to gain fractions of a mm at a time and going after it with die grinder and small stones for an hour has been the only way forward i've found with the stuff a few times. It seems to cut reasonable if it can be quench annealed but thats not an option when its seized in alum. Methods of hardening involve holding it at a high temp for a long period of time in a specified atmosphere, so I'd assume just heating it with the presence of air has to do with why the outside layer stays somewhat machinable and why the bar took a curve after some of that layer was taken off. Not sure how much id expect of it for cutting edges, seems more suited to the same high temp situations stainless would be used but with capability of holding up tensile strength at higher temps yet. It just seems to get very tough as in abrasion resistant to the point of stopping carbide but at the same time it can still be bent as we just seen, so what good is a seriously hard knife edge that can still be bent thus blunting the blade? Will it be harder to roll the edge on an inconel blade than it is to damage a good stainless or tool steel blade, will be interesting to see.
Green beetle did an iconel knife and sent it off for heat treat if I'm not mistaken
2mins in... you've made an inconel banana!
I was like, and then um, you know the thing... I mean listen, we all know what we know and we all know that.. So its all there when you want it if you want it. Man...
Pretty interesting
You should look into getting a surface grinder with a magnetic vice for hard material like that when you want to face
I don't think Inconel will stick to a mag vice but I've never tried it.
is it from the heat or because one stressed side was cut away , like a toughned glass ?
you should save those scraps and make some inconel steel damascus
Think you could make canister Damascus with carbide cutter bits?
Man I kept thinking it was going to snap over the vise.
New sub, thanks for the content! This is great stuff!
Coolant. Coolant. Coolant. Coolant. Coolant.
Wonder what would happen if you quenched it?!
If this knife goes up for sell, I wish I could afford it. Only because she to the cost, I'd put on my wall. There's people putting various swords on their wall, and I'll have this small knife.
If he sold the knife, he could also make the video into an NFT to accompany the knife. Then you'd have the knife and the real movie forever.
Tim. With a blade that thick. It would make a great bushcraft knife. How would you make sure the edge doesn’t get too hard through work hardening it?
2:05 is that due to compressive internal stresses in the matrial being relieved on one side only?
Yo boss You definitely definitely need some sort of surface grinder and I’m pretty sure you can make it yourself since you have a milling machine
If he can get the edge sharp and to a rwh of 55 it'll be a decent/heavy blade with thin handle scales
Okay so there is no confusion on my part. I work with o-1 1095 1084 d2 a2 ect. Don’t know anything about this super material Tim is using so I will keep my comments to myself from now on and that way there will not be any confusion. Sorry form not knowing anything about this aerospace material. Later.
Get one of the tiny bits you cut off.. sharpen it, see if its hard enough to use as a knife with no further treatment.. if so. You know what to do.
You should work hard in the edge with light taps of a hammer then finish grinding the bevel
Take the scrap pieces and see if we can forge Weld thin together
you guys should forge an "even bigger hammer"
"I'm so happy I'm sharpening axes right now"
Tells you all you need to know about working this stuff lol l.
When you face mill alloys they like to stress internally and turn into Pringles.
Fine
Definitely should had used a surface grinder
I smashed the subscribe button with a hammer.... Long story short, you owe me a new laptop! :-p
wow.
Which is worse - Inconel or Hastalloy C?