Haha The more work I do on the ski, the more I see how superior a product the Kawasaki is over all other brands! Thank you for teaching me how to wrench on boats, jet skis, cars, busses, tractors, lawnmowers, and everything in between!
Great job. I did exactly like you did for my 310R 50hrs with no problems. You gave me the confidence to do it! Thankyou again. Next video please do the bearings and seals. Can't wait. Thanks again.
Very well done! Please keep them coming. The new 310 Ultras are really starting to make their way on to the water. It's nice to have a reliable source for basic how to's! Subscribed!
The most important thing is to make sure you have no dings or gouges on the leading edge of the impeller as this will cause cavitation and vibration. If the impeller is worn down and your gap is larger than spec you will loose speed but not necessarily damage anything. The main bearings should be changed every 150 hrs or so according to the manual, even though I am personally currently running more than that on my stock bearings and they seem fine...If i was trying to get the absolute top speed you want fresh pump bearings every season
@@JDsWaterWorld do you think OM balances props very well, are there any markings showing it had been balanced? If not may be should be done before first ride 🤷♂️
The stock impeller is probably the best one you can get for this ski- stainless steel, oval edge, very well made, extremely high quality- I imagine it’s undergone a very rigorous quality inspection. That being said I have no clue how or if they balance them but I have never had an issue with pump vibration. You can hear the impeller clanging in the housing on pretty much every PWC
I haven’t done this on my 2022 yet, but every previous Ultra and 12F I had, I always found it easier to remove the ride plate, which brought the reverse gate with it. With that out of the way you don’t have to mess with the step, and if the pump is really stuck you can easily pry it.
Removing the ride plate does make the pump more accessible, but also adds about 45 minutes to the job plus you have to reapply silicon to the edges of the plate, and locktite to all those bolts. You are correct about the rear step and reverse bucket.
Oh man that sucks! Well once you get the pump off, you will need a vice, a Kawasaki impeller tool, and a breaker bar. If you email me I can send you pictures of the pages from the service manual on how to change it. I unfortunately have no plans to make a video on this unless I have an issue with my impeller…
Hey JD! serious question and I think you would be the only one to know. I have an stx 15f and I hate the reverse bucket and reverse maneuverability on that ski. Do you think the new 2022 ultra 310 buckets would bolt onto my ride plate? for years the ultra and stx platform shared the same reverse bucket I am curious if they are interchangeable. since you have both skis you could test it out on your LX, if it fits on that ski it will fit on the STX. maybe make a video about it being a viable upgrade if it does work? Thanks in advance.
Do you have a recommendation to get OEM Kawasaki parts? So far I’m looking for exhaust filter parts and pump cone o ring. Do you know of a maintenance kit? A kit that has all items for required maintenance (25 hr, 50 hr, etc)?
I have bought parts from www.4-tecperformance.com they have good prices and decent shipping. Unfortunately there are no maintenance kits that I know of- you must order the parts you need Al a carte.
On my hoses and fittings, I like to use a waterproof grease. Not real heavy, very lightly. Go around the nipple and then slide the Hose on , that will keep any corrosion away And make it very easy when doing your maintenance.
My Kawasaki ultra 310 shakes after stopping from full throttle. The steering shakes/ vibrates. I had to remove a piece of wood that was stuck around the impeller about a month ago. What can be the issue? The impeller looks fine and I’m pretty sure I got all of the wood out..
You need to check the impeller for damage, also the bearings, the through-hull bearing, and the driveline damper..any of these could have become damaged from the price of wood..seems like something off balance with driveline concrete the shaking
How prone are ultra 310 to having jet pump shaft play and ruining the engine? Kawiperformance has the shaft claiming its stronger than oem and will prevent it from ruining the engine.
That issue was apparently only on the STX models; I actually purchased an upgraded shaft and bearing kit for my STX1100 from Kawi Performance. If you have to replace the shaft, theirs is a good alternative to oem, but the oem for the 310 is completely fine
Yes, I had viewers and subscribers vote if they wanted fuel pump/filter video or supercharger pulley and they voted for the latter. I will be doing a video on changing the fuel filter soon though- which does require the pump assembly to be pulled
JD when u accelerate in FPO mode what does your boost meter say it gets to? Mine hits about 12PSI then comes down a bit once at / near top end…. that normal? 15 hours on ski.
Have you greased the pivot bushing on the tensioner? That sounds about right- once the governor kicks in it pushes the revs down and you lose boost. What is your max rpm?
@@JDsWaterWorld Have not greased it yet. Dealer said 25 hours before doing that?? It’s pulling 13PSI at about 7600-7700 RPM then slows a bit at max speed (105kmh) ish…. That’s in FTO mode with just rider on er. She rips and I haven’t noticed any loss of performance but just curious if others are seeing similar numbers
I know the boost meter jumps to 15 psi on hard accel but exactly as you say drops to around 12 at 65 mph or so after the limiter kicks in. I don’t think you have any issue, but you know doesn’t hurt to check all the hose clamps. The manual states to inspect the belt for proper wear at 10hrs- that’s when I greased my bushing- some say to do it when the ski is new before even taking it out.
@@JDsWaterWorld Thanks. Dealer inspected belt and changed oil at 8 hours when I had it in for that update. I doubt they took the time to grease everything. I’ll watch you video and do it myself then it’s done. Thanks for your help!
![Jet Pump Rebuild Tutorial for The Kawasaki Ultra 310 Jet Ski [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ds9c8Rmktxg/mqdefault.jpg)
![Jet Pump Rebuild Tutorial for The Kawasaki Ultra 310 Jet Ski [4K]](/img/tr.png)
Very well done.makes me want to buy another Kawi just to do the maintenance,with the help of your videos of course.
Haha The more work I do on the ski, the more I see how superior a product the Kawasaki is over all other brands! Thank you for teaching me how to wrench on boats, jet skis, cars, busses, tractors, lawnmowers, and everything in between!
Great job. I did exactly like you did for my 310R 50hrs with no problems. You gave me the confidence to do it! Thankyou again. Next video please do the bearings and seals. Can't wait. Thanks again.
Bob I’m thrilled you found my videos useful, thank you for taking the time to comment! I will do the bearings and seals soon!
Great info. I should have used your vid instead of paying to have mine done.
Hahah well I didn’t show how to unassemble the pump and replace the bearings..I’ll have to do that video someday when mine needs replacing
Very good instructional video. Injoyed watching the detailed inspection.
Glad you liked it!
Very well done! Please keep them coming. The new 310 Ultras are really starting to make their way on to the water. It's nice to have a reliable source for basic how to's! Subscribed!
Chuck thanks for watching and subscribing! If you have any special video requests, let me know!
Great job JD showing us how to maintenance and service to pump area! Thanks for sharing
Billy D
Thanks Billy! So I can’t remember if I’ve asked you already, but have you ever had to change the bearings in Gina’s 310?
Awesome video JD! Your videos are the best for the new Kawasaki ski owners!!!
I just ordered an exhaust filter and gaskets from the Greenhulk store, so will be doing a video on that next week!
@@JDsWaterWorld Awesome! I'm looking forward to it!
Thank you!
Any time, thanks for the comment!
Great video as always !!
Glad it was helpful. I have a few more detailed tutorials coming as well!
Very informative video
Glad you think so!
Love your videos jD …. I get my kawa next week !
Awesome congrats! You’re going to love it…the more I work on my ski, the more I love it- the quality is outstanding! Thank you for watching!
@@JDsWaterWorld thanks for spending the time on doing these videos, team green baby.
Seas are rough around the UK wish me luck lol
What model are you getting? Haha these Kawis are made for the chop!
Same as you 310-LXS
Almost went for the 310x after the kevin @ the W.J review on it the other day…. Just got to be green …..
Haha that’s pretty much the reason I got the LX-S too I’m crazy about that Kawi Lime Green!
Thanks
Looks like nice and easy to do, as long as no bad news on the gapping, I like digging in to my machines 😼
The most important thing is to make sure you have no dings or gouges on the leading edge of the impeller as this will cause cavitation and vibration. If the impeller is worn down and your gap is larger than spec you will loose speed but not necessarily damage anything. The main bearings should be changed every 150 hrs or so according to the manual, even though I am personally currently running more than that on my stock bearings and they seem fine...If i was trying to get the absolute top speed you want fresh pump bearings every season
@@JDsWaterWorld do you think OM balances props very well, are there any markings showing it had been balanced? If not may be should be done before first ride 🤷♂️
The stock impeller is probably the best one you can get for this ski- stainless steel, oval edge, very well made, extremely high quality- I imagine it’s undergone a very rigorous quality inspection. That being said I have no clue how or if they balance them but I have never had an issue with pump vibration. You can hear the impeller clanging in the housing on pretty much every PWC
@@JDsWaterWorld ahhh, make sense, if out of balance, vibration would be noted and unusual wear on prop.
God bless!
I haven’t done this on my 2022 yet, but every previous Ultra and 12F I had, I always found it easier to remove the ride plate, which brought the reverse gate with it. With that out of the way you don’t have to mess with the step, and if the pump is really stuck you can easily pry it.
Removing the ride plate does make the pump more accessible, but also adds about 45 minutes to the job plus you have to reapply silicon to the edges of the plate, and locktite to all those bolts. You are correct about the rear step and reverse bucket.
@@JDsWaterWorld Yeah true on the loctite. I guess I am just used to doing it this way. Either way, good job checking in on the bearings 👍
Can you post how to remove and replace the impeller? I sucked in a rock and chipped the fins on mine…4 hrs…
Oh man that sucks! Well once you get the pump off, you will need a vice, a Kawasaki impeller tool, and a breaker bar. If you email me I can send you pictures of the pages from the service manual on how to change it. I unfortunately have no plans to make a video on this unless I have an issue with my impeller…
You are very OCD with that beautiful grease, I love it and am the same way🤙🤙🤙🤙
Hey JD! serious question and I think you would be the only one to know. I have an stx 15f and I hate the reverse bucket and reverse maneuverability on that ski. Do you think the new 2022 ultra 310 buckets would bolt onto my ride plate? for years the ultra and stx platform shared the same reverse bucket I am curious if they are interchangeable. since you have both skis you could test it out on your LX, if it fits on that ski it will fit on the STX. maybe make a video about it being a viable upgrade if it does work? Thanks in advance.
As far as I know the new bucket will not bolt up at all, the ride plate and mounting brackets are different to accommodate the KSRD.
Great video! Too bad you can’t pull part of the shaft back a few cm’s. That would make changing the supercharger belt easier on the other side.
Yeah that would have been too easy! On my STX you can replace the driveline damper puck by just pulling the pump - no need to move engine
Do you have a recommendation to get OEM Kawasaki parts? So far I’m looking for exhaust filter parts and pump cone o ring.
Do you know of a maintenance kit? A kit that has all items for required maintenance (25 hr, 50 hr, etc)?
I have bought parts from www.4-tecperformance.com they have good prices and decent shipping. Unfortunately there are no maintenance kits that I know of- you must order the parts you need Al a carte.
On my hoses and fittings, I like to use a waterproof grease. Not real heavy, very lightly. Go around the nipple and then slide the Hose on , that will keep any corrosion away And make it very easy when doing your maintenance.
So I found that greasing these hoses allows them to work their way off..ask me how I know…
My Kawasaki ultra 310 shakes after stopping from full throttle. The steering shakes/ vibrates. I had to remove a piece of wood that was stuck around the impeller about a month ago. What can be the issue? The impeller looks fine and I’m pretty sure I got all of the wood out..
You need to check the impeller for damage, also the bearings, the through-hull bearing, and the driveline damper..any of these could have become damaged from the price of wood..seems like something off balance with driveline concrete the shaking
Do you have a part number for the jet pump cone O-ring?
I do not, but if you go to Riva Racing and click on OEM parts you can find it on the microfiche. I normally would look it up for you but I’m too lazy
Does this video semi follow along with the 2016 310x Special Edition
Yes, everything is the same, except for the reverse bucket
@@JDsWaterWorld i noticed that right away since its a manual control bucket
How prone are ultra 310 to having jet pump shaft play and ruining the engine?
Kawiperformance has the shaft claiming its stronger than oem and will prevent it from ruining the engine.
That issue was apparently only on the STX models; I actually purchased an upgraded shaft and bearing kit for my STX1100 from Kawi Performance. If you have to replace the shaft, theirs is a good alternative to oem, but the oem for the 310 is completely fine
Did you put the ski in maintenance mode?
Yeah, don’t I explain how to do it in this video?
Do Yk how to remove the fuel pump?
Yes, I had viewers and subscribers vote if they wanted fuel pump/filter video or supercharger pulley and they voted for the latter. I will be doing a video on changing the fuel filter soon though- which does require the pump assembly to be pulled
JD when u accelerate in FPO mode what does your boost meter say it gets to? Mine hits about 12PSI then comes down a bit once at / near top end…. that normal? 15 hours on ski.
Have you greased the pivot bushing on the tensioner? That sounds about right- once the governor kicks in it pushes the revs down and you lose boost. What is your max rpm?
@@JDsWaterWorld Have not greased it yet. Dealer said 25 hours before doing that?? It’s pulling 13PSI at about 7600-7700 RPM then slows a bit at max speed (105kmh) ish…. That’s in FTO mode with just rider on er. She rips and I haven’t noticed any loss of performance but just curious if others are seeing similar numbers
I know the boost meter jumps to 15 psi on hard accel but exactly as you say drops to around 12 at 65 mph or so after the limiter kicks in. I don’t think you have any issue, but you know doesn’t hurt to check all the hose clamps. The manual states to inspect the belt for proper wear at 10hrs- that’s when I greased my bushing- some say to do it when the ski is new before even taking it out.
@@JDsWaterWorld Thanks. Dealer inspected belt and changed oil at 8 hours when I had it in for that update. I doubt they took the time to grease everything. I’ll watch you video and do it myself then it’s done. Thanks for your help!