I guess that is the burden of full time salt life. I always like to get mine in fresh water and run hard as soon as possible after a coastal trip. Flushing is good but cant beat running in clean fresh water. I have been meaning to share a nice upgrade for your Ultra lx. The reboarding step from the STX 160 line is a great upgrade. If you have seen how they rest on the rear bumper vs under it, it makes accessing sooo much easier. Like your lxs. It is a straight bolt on upgrade. I was going to order one from Kawi for my 2020 310lxbut found one from an STX that was parted out after an accident. Your dad will appreciate it. Longer so it rests on bumper so he can catch it easier and it extends deeper in the water making it easier to use. Thanks for the video as always.
Hey man I can find the video that shows how to use the maintenance menu to lower the rear box in order to hook the arm back up. After installing a pump wedge.
Towards the end of this video at the link below I show you how to put the ski into maintenance mode: th-cam.com/video/sZA7SyJ0EmU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=oKh_-MUepSxQfRnW
Make sure to properly adjust the brass quick connect on your KSRD arm or you will damage the actuator and adjust the nut on your steering or your handlebars will be cocked
@@JDsWaterWorld yeah I got the steering linkage all adjusted but I couldn’t get that brass one to reach the box after installing the wedge. I ended up loosing the nut and was able to turn it out some. But trying to get the backing nut tighten is dam near impossible. Lol cause it so cramped and not being able to figure out how to make the maintenance mode work properly. Didn’t help. I did notice the amount of slop on the jet pump housing seems excessive. I know it should be free moving. But this seems to have a 1/8th extra play in it
Just finished my last ride before hooking into a heap of maintenance on my 300x, your vids are always my first stop before attempting anything. Keep up the great work.
I am impressed with the impeller. Mine has suck up cedar and 1 inch rock and both time the ridding was done and had to limp back and had to dig out the stuck items with steel rod. TN river. I can still able to hit top speed. This weekend suck up wood so I just FPO out of it. I rather sacrifice a little speed than be stuck and ruin the day.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment Billy! You know I had to do it anyway and realized there’s not a single video about rebuilding the Ultra 310 Jet pump, so figured it would be helpful to others!
The best way is to search your part numbers on eBay and then submit "best offer" for 10-20% below asking price. There are lots of Japanese powersports guys on eBay and they are willing to wheel and deal usually
I have not ridden yet, actually just finished this the other day. I imagine I will see a substantial improvement…yeah the salt is brutal..my impeller had no nicks or anything either..the biggest issue is the pump housing swells from corrosion between the liner and pump body..just make sure you wash it really well after every salt ride..even though I flush really well, the corrosion won…
Speaking of, I was curious about the wavesrx flush vs. your original flush video. Is their product superior to salt away? Wanted to know if I should switch when the gallon runs out.
If you ride in salt water every 150 hrs or so for peak performance. Fresh water, interval could be double that. If you don't care about peak performance you can get 500/600 hours on a pump
Hello man, love your work, and will be good help to my engine rebuilt. Thanks a lot. Can I ask you look a guy with lot experience in this kind a engine, I have 2007 kawasaki 250X ultra 1500 jt, and the crankcase it is finish the OEM parts 1401-3745, It is the some from the 2008 model? OEM number is 3746 but I will like to know if the crankcase are similar? I need to buy used one but there is more possibility with other models, can you help with the info. Thank,
"Foggy oil" under bearings usually refers to a thin, inconsistent layer of oil that isn't providing proper lubrication, and can actually dissolve the protective coating on the bearing surfaces, leading to increased wear and potential damage to the bearing itself, essentially "eating away" at the bearing material, reducing its lifespan significantly.
Never heard of that. " Fogging Oil" is a commercially available aerosol charged oil designed for use as an engine preservation lube and as in my video, can be used as an assembly lube without issue
As always JD a great how to video. 1 question i do have shop manual but thought I'd ask on the side port phillips screws is there a torque valve you? Or just snug. A+++ advice from the man 👍
Thanks for showing us how it's done JD! Trailblazer for the rest of us! Thank you for all the time and work it takes to film, edit and post all of this!!
@@JDsWaterWorld If we ever ride I already planned to give you my neck mount. You are too valuable of a resource to not have both hands in view. Long live JD!
This guy is in love with grease!!
Gotta have that grease!!
Good job
I guess that is the burden of full time salt life. I always like to get mine in fresh water and run hard as soon as possible after a coastal trip. Flushing is good but cant beat running in clean fresh water. I have been meaning to share a nice upgrade for your Ultra lx. The reboarding step from the STX 160 line is a great upgrade. If you have seen how they rest on the rear bumper vs under it, it makes accessing sooo much easier. Like your lxs. It is a straight bolt on upgrade. I was going to order one from Kawi for my 2020 310lxbut found one from an STX that was parted out after an accident. Your dad will appreciate it. Longer so it rests on bumper so he can catch it easier and it extends deeper in the water making it easier to use. Thanks for the video as always.
Hey man I can find the video that shows how to use the maintenance menu to lower the rear box in order to hook the arm back up. After installing a pump wedge.
Towards the end of this video at the link below I show you how to put the ski into maintenance mode: th-cam.com/video/sZA7SyJ0EmU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=oKh_-MUepSxQfRnW
Make sure to properly adjust the brass quick connect on your KSRD arm or you will damage the actuator and adjust the nut on your steering or your handlebars will be cocked
@@JDsWaterWorld yeah I got the steering linkage all adjusted but I couldn’t get that brass one to reach the box after installing the wedge. I ended up loosing the nut and was able to turn it out some. But trying to get the backing nut tighten is dam near impossible. Lol cause it so cramped and not being able to figure out how to make the maintenance mode work properly. Didn’t help. I did notice the amount of slop on the jet pump housing seems excessive. I know it should be free moving. But this seems to have a 1/8th extra play in it
Just finished my last ride before hooking into a heap of maintenance on my 300x, your vids are always my first stop before attempting anything. Keep up the great work.
Awesome man thanks for the comment! Anything you ever want to see just let me know, I’m always trying to find new ideas for tutorials!
I am impressed with the impeller. Mine has suck up cedar and 1 inch rock and both time the ridding was done and had to limp back and had to dig out the stuck items with steel rod. TN river. I can still able to hit top speed. This weekend suck up wood so I just FPO out of it. I rather sacrifice a little speed than be stuck and ruin the day.
Hahah. Yeah the stock impeller is a great design and built very well!
The 310 has so much power are there more aggressive pumps to ad more thrust? Higher degree impeller or smaller diameter jet pump? Thoughts…
Great content JD, truly appreciate you taking the time to show us how to do the maintenance and replacement of the jet pump. Thanks again,
Billy D
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment Billy! You know I had to do it anyway and realized there’s not a single video about rebuilding the Ultra 310 Jet pump, so figured it would be helpful to others!
I just found your page, and I am binge watching your videos. How do you directly order from Japan? Would you share that link? Thank you in advance.
The best way is to search your part numbers on eBay and then submit "best offer" for 10-20% below asking price. There are lots of Japanese powersports guys on eBay and they are willing to wheel and deal usually
@@JDsWaterWorld Thank you.
Any time! I respond to most questions, so ask away!
So is this for the '22? Was it failing or is this preventative?
Nevermind, kept watching you answered my question. I'm way behind on my 100 hours per year, for shame.😢
Yes my pump was worn out and needed to be replaced, it did not “fail” per say but was at the wear limit that most people ignore
@@JDsWaterWorld Noted, when I hit 200 I'll start to make preparations. Have you ridden since the swap? If so, have you seen a performance improvement?
I have not ridden yet, actually just finished this the other day. I imagine I will see a substantial improvement…yeah the salt is brutal..my impeller had no nicks or anything either..the biggest issue is the pump housing swells from corrosion between the liner and pump body..just make sure you wash it really well after every salt ride..even though I flush really well, the corrosion won…
Speaking of, I was curious about the wavesrx flush vs. your original flush video. Is their product superior to salt away? Wanted to know if I should switch when the gallon runs out.
Thanks for another great DIY sharing.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Hi How many hours should u rebuild the jet pump bearings
If you ride in salt water every 150 hrs or so for peak performance. Fresh water, interval could be double that. If you don't care about peak performance you can get 500/600 hours on a pump
Hello man, love your work, and will be good help to my engine rebuilt. Thanks a lot.
Can I ask you look a guy with lot experience in this kind a engine, I have 2007 kawasaki 250X ultra 1500 jt, and the crankcase it is finish the OEM parts 1401-3745, It is the some from the 2008 model? OEM number is 3746 but I will like to know if the crankcase are similar? I need to buy used one but there is more possibility with other models, can you help with the info. Thank,
You know I dont really have a lot of experience with the 250s…I really have no clue, sorry
"Foggy oil" under bearings usually refers to a thin, inconsistent layer of oil that isn't providing proper lubrication, and can actually dissolve the protective coating on the bearing surfaces, leading to increased wear and potential damage to the bearing itself, essentially "eating away" at the bearing material, reducing its lifespan significantly.
Never heard of that. " Fogging Oil" is a commercially available aerosol charged oil designed for use as an engine preservation lube and as in my video, can be used as an assembly lube without issue
As always JD a great how to video. 1 question i do have shop manual but thought I'd ask on the side port phillips screws is there a torque valve you? Or just snug. A+++ advice from the man 👍
I hate those Philips..they really should be hex bolts but yeah just snug! Thanks for the comments as always!!
Have you considered the Riva Lucky 13 pump cone?
I do not run any Riva components at this point
Thanks for showing us how it's done JD! Trailblazer for the rest of us! Thank you for all the time and work it takes to film, edit and post all of this!!
Ever thought about asking your wife to film so you can use both hands? Or is she too busy with your little ones? Great video as always!
Hahahahah no my wife would not
Maybe if I ever make any money from this channel I’ll invest in some camera mounts lmao 🤣
@@JDsWaterWorld If we ever ride I already planned to give you my neck mount. You are too valuable of a resource to not have both hands in view. Long live JD!
@@Razorpee AMEN!