Matt i just found this site and have been binge watching! You make it look so easy. Im turning 55 in march and just starting to learn how to weld. I so what to attempted a build from scratch!
When I draw a spring up with the center bolt I put a bit of anti seize on the threads. If you don't there is a good chance the nut will gaul (friction weld) to the bolt. New bolts are available in a variety of lengths and diameters. I usually use a new bolt when assembling a spring pack..
hi matt you need a porto power. i use that to spead springs. awesome build your doing. just like they did it back in the day with old parts and pieces great job
Hey Matt, I possibly have a 1937 ford pickup rear end I am looking at. Kind of following your lead on the sweetheart roadster for my 28 Ford pickup project. In this video you stated the one you had was a 36. Will this 37 rear end I am looking at work? I saw right off some suspension differences the 37 has coil springs on top of the axle. I was thinking this could be modified and I can do the similar things with the springs since I have all that. Please just let me know you opinion. Thank you Matt, Puget Sound, Washington State
A 37 rear may have dual leaf springs different from a car rear so that could cause some extra work. One nice thing is that it may be an open drive which will eliminate the use of a torque tube. Make sure it isn't a big truck (floating axles) rear as they aren't the best for a small car like a model a and have really low gearing. The bottom center webbing of the rear should have a stamping of a small (normally single digit) number and a two digit number that you divide into each other. That will be your gear ratio. If it has the wrong spring setup and a super low ratio I'd keep looking for a better rear.
Hey Matt thank you for the feedback. I can say this one has the single leaf just like the one you are doing on the sweetheart roadster. It does have the torque tube. Thank you for the info on stamping for gear ratio's that is valuable. I will have to check that. I went ahead and picked up the rear-end and also have the top-loader 3 speed transmission that went with it. I think I will be able to do something similar to what you did on the sweetheart roadster "except" since I have the stock 28 Model A frame I need to lengthen the frame or another form of adjustment to move the axle back to the original location. I had an idea to build a frame to support the bed of the truck and am thinking this is a perfect opportunity to move the axle back and relocate the spring plus get some drop of the rear of the truck doing so. I will hopefully get a video soon. Been super busy at my main job so not much time in the garage.
Matt I have a question for you. I picked up a 35 rear end for my two door sedan build. Will the spring behind set the rear wheels far enough forward to make it look funny? I plan to do the rear frame mod in the how to build an early ford book should I set the spring perch back the distance that the spring behind pushes the wheels forward? Maybe it’s not that big a deal and I’m over thinking it. Lol
Great question! The spring behind setup will put your rear wheels too far forward in the wheel well and may look odd. If you're building a frame or modifying the frame you can adjust things to make that work, but you can't just bolt it up and expect the wheel base to be correct. If you're dead set on the 35-36 rear you can modify the frame to get the wheels back in the center of the wheel well. I forget the measurement, I usually just mock it up and then measure and modify to match. It IS a big deal! The stance and the side profile of a hot rod is CRUCIAL and if you're wheels aren't centered in the wheel well it looks really odd and hurts the overall look of the build no matter how nice the paint, engine, etc. is. Good luck with the project man! -Matt/ITG
Hi Anthony, This car I am building to keep so it won't be for sale anytime soon. I have a Ford Model T roadster we're starting on shortly that we will build, drive, and sell if you're interested in an early T. Thanks for the interest.
Love you Chanel but not your music , Rockabilly Rules . Today I bought a 36 front axle and a 36 Rear end so this is good for me, Are you going to hook up the tuque tube to a Flathead because my Flathead is out of my 39 truck with a 4 speed , I mite have a problem at the back of the gearbox ?????
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I don't cry alot but stepping in a mocked up build and let the imagination run away... that tears me up.
Cool roadster Matt!
Matt I've been watching your builds and I got to say you certainly are knowledgeable with these early fords
Matt i just found this site and have been binge watching! You make it look so easy. Im turning 55 in march and just starting to learn how to weld. I so what to attempted a build from scratch!
Bravo sei un vero genio condratulacione
I know there's a long way to go... But it really coming together..
Keep the vids coming!!!👍👍
Man, Its looking real Good here. Like a Hot Rod.
When I draw a spring up with the center bolt I put a bit of anti seize on the threads. If you don't there is a good chance the nut will gaul (friction weld) to the bolt. New bolts are available in a variety of lengths and diameters. I usually use a new bolt when assembling a spring pack..
hi matt you need a porto power. i use that to spead springs. awesome build your doing. just like they did it back in the day with old parts and pieces great job
Thanks for the tip Nick!
Hey Matt, I possibly have a 1937 ford pickup rear end I am looking at. Kind of following your lead on the sweetheart roadster for my 28 Ford pickup project. In this video you stated the one you had was a 36. Will this 37 rear end I am looking at work? I saw right off some suspension differences the 37 has coil springs on top of the axle. I was thinking this could be modified and I can do the similar things with the springs since I have all that. Please just let me know you opinion. Thank you Matt, Puget Sound, Washington State
A 37 rear may have dual leaf springs different from a car rear so that could cause some extra work. One nice thing is that it may be an open drive which will eliminate the use of a torque tube. Make sure it isn't a big truck (floating axles) rear as they aren't the best for a small car like a model a and have really low gearing. The bottom center webbing of the rear should have a stamping of a small (normally single digit) number and a two digit number that you divide into each other. That will be your gear ratio. If it has the wrong spring setup and a super low ratio I'd keep looking for a better rear.
Hey Matt thank you for the feedback. I can say this one has the single leaf just like the one you are doing on the sweetheart roadster. It does have the torque tube. Thank you for the info on stamping for gear ratio's that is valuable. I will have to check that. I went ahead and picked up the rear-end and also have the top-loader 3 speed transmission that went with it. I think I will be able to do something similar to what you did on the sweetheart roadster "except" since I have the stock 28 Model A frame I need to lengthen the frame or another form of adjustment to move the axle back to the original location. I had an idea to build a frame to support the bed of the truck and am thinking this is a perfect opportunity to move the axle back and relocate the spring plus get some drop of the rear of the truck doing so. I will hopefully get a video soon. Been super busy at my main job so not much time in the garage.
Matt I have a question for you. I picked up a 35 rear end for my two door sedan build. Will the spring behind set the rear wheels far enough forward to make it look funny? I plan to do the rear frame mod in the how to build an early ford book should I set the spring perch back the distance that the spring behind pushes the wheels forward? Maybe it’s not that big a deal and I’m over thinking it. Lol
Great question! The spring behind setup will put your rear wheels too far forward in the wheel well and may look odd. If you're building a frame or modifying the frame you can adjust things to make that work, but you can't just bolt it up and expect the wheel base to be correct. If you're dead set on the 35-36 rear you can modify the frame to get the wheels back in the center of the wheel well. I forget the measurement, I usually just mock it up and then measure and modify to match. It IS a big deal! The stance and the side profile of a hot rod is CRUCIAL and if you're wheels aren't centered in the wheel well it looks really odd and hurts the overall look of the build no matter how nice the paint, engine, etc. is. Good luck with the project man! -Matt/ITG
Did you consider channeling the body over the chassis ? It's still seriously tall
It is a "highboy" and that's the look Matt is after. It will probably be a little lower when he's all done. There were lots of highboys back then.
@@jongolliher3806 I get that . I just like the look of lower cars
Hey i know kinda off the wall question. But will you be selling this build and if so what do you think your timeline will be?
Hi Anthony, This car I am building to keep so it won't be for sale anytime soon. I have a Ford Model T roadster we're starting on shortly that we will build, drive, and sell if you're interested in an early T. Thanks for the interest.
Love you Chanel but not your music , Rockabilly Rules . Today I bought a 36 front axle and a 36 Rear end so this is good for me, Are you going to hook up the tuque tube to a Flathead because my Flathead is out of my 39 truck with a 4 speed , I mite have a problem at the back of the gearbox ?????
Why not use a 32 spring, since your using a 32 frame
What’s with all the garbage background garbage noise,,,,,,,