Star Trek-themed inlaid cutting board (full tutorial)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- This is my most complex inlay project yet. I had a problem with one of the blanks so I had to 'patch' the finished board, which I had never done.
My CNC is a EuroMakers Aureux 3X, similar to a Shapeoko or X-Carve. CAD/CAM is made with Vectric Vcarve Desktop.
If you're interested in making deep inlays (especially with 'light' hobby CNCs), I have got several tutorials on my channel.
Very nice work! I like that you also show that something goes wrong. And how you have corrected it
Fantastic work. How deep is that female pocket and when doing the plug, what do you use as your start depth/flat depth.?
Hello . I generally do, for the pocket SD 0 FD 8mm and for the plug SD 7.5mm and FD 3. I have a detailed tutorial on my channel if you're interested.
@@stephanforseilles Thanks Stephan....I just subscribed
你好,请教一个问题,为什么要先切掉薄薄一层.?Hello, may I ask a question? Why do we need to cut off a thin layer first?
Were do you get the 6mm 10 deg bits from. Can find any
Mate I am new to this and Vcarve THIS IS BRILLIANT. How do I do 1/50th of this. How do you learn to be somewhat proficient at this? Would you share any of your secrets with someone who really wants to learn? Would you share some of your files? Kind Regards Jason A
Thanks! I started from scratch with a tiny CNC, watched thousands of YT videos and created a lot of burning wood for my stove... :D I've put a couple of tutorials on my channel.
Haha! Yeah, looks like first test of the Cloaking Device... Well done, though, good instructional video!
hi Stephan... what is the depth of your female material and the height of male material. And do you have any offset for the male and female measurements... I mean that if you have 20 mm female square, what must be the male part... Thanks already and good lucks with the woods...
Hi! There is an offset indeed but it's created using a start depth. I've made a tutorial explaining my method in details: th-cam.com/video/RY0zLv3wcyc/w-d-xo.html
I saw that at 25:22 your bit gets mixed with glue. I have the same problem, do you know why this appens?
It could be that it was not 100% dry. As it's in an airtight place, it could take much longer.
So question on corners with vcarving with tapered ball noses / vee bits. How sharp are your outside corners? For example, on an "E", every corner should be 90-deg. I know the angled bit will get really close to 90-deg. But given that there is a tip, can it actually get to a 'perfect' 90-deg corner on the outside corner, or will it be a slightly rounded edge? For example, I am testing cutting out on the inside and outside of a square. When cutting outside of the square shape, I can get what appears to be 90-deg corners. When I am cutting the inside of the square, it appears the corners have a slightly rounded edge to them. I am using a tapered ball nose, 5.09-deg, 0.25mm tip, 3.175mm diameter.
The second question is, if you are getting a slight rounded edge on the 'outside' corner, how well does the inlay fit because the opposide side will be an 'inside' cut and be an exact 90-deg angle.
Thanks for your help as always! And if you have a Patreon channel I'd love to support you and your work / helping others.
Indeed you'll get rounder corners at the radius of your bit, here 0.25mm, but that's small enough not to be a problem with wood and glue. As the outside corner is rounder and the insite that fits is quare, the inside pice will conform when you hammer it or press it in place.
I don't have Patreon, just making those for fun and the joy of spreading the love for inlays and CNCs. :)
Sin el último dibujo hubiese quedado muchisimo mejor
A real labor of love, must have taken some milling time with that tiny spindle. Very nice work, I know how much work goes into this as I have the shapeoko 3. I need to up my game! May I ask how many hours/days this job was from start to finish?
Thanks Craig! If I include the design and carving, I''d say about 15 to 20 hours. Spindle works ok (it's 1050W) but I'm more limited by the CNC's rigidity.
there are no mistakes, just happy little accidents
Nice Bob Ross reference.
Where do you get your bits? I'm having a hard time finding a 20 degree vbit.
Hello, mostly amazon amzn.to/3s6Y61Z and Aliexpress for the V-bits. Most of the straight ones I get from cncfraises.com
High Level ! C'est propre
This is phenomenal work! Thank you for taking the time to explain it all so clearly, and help so many people with answers - very gracious of you. I am getting some tearout, especially in the more detailed areas. Are you able to share your feed rate/speeds? And is end grain better for this level of detail vs edge grain? Lastly, any rule of thumb on how much detail is too much (e.g., I noticed you fattened the some parts). Thank you so much!!
Thanks! End-grain is definitely much better for details! Typical speed for the 10°/15° bits would be 500mm/min, 5mm passes. For the details, I always try not to have them so narrow that my bit cannot reach flat depth. You can calculate with trigonometry or just measure your bit with callipers at flat depth. ;)
@@stephanforseilles Many thanks!!
@@stephanforseilles would you share your vector file?
Belle pièce :)
Great video! Very helpful. I'm reminded of Bob Ross, "There are no mistakes, just happy accidents."
Very nice work!! I think I noticed that you used a ball nose but instead of a vbit. Do you think it is better to use for more intricate detail work??
Any Vbit less than 30° has a flat nose anyway (event if not out of the box, they have one after 5 minutes of carving). I use a .25 round nose because I couldn't find a flat nosed that has such a small angle. But I configure it as a flat-nosed v-carving bit.
@@stephanforseilles So with a 0.25mm radius tapered ball nose bit, did you set it up to have a 0.5mm flat tip?
@@stephanforseilles This is a really important point. I have decided to attempt to use a .25 round nose as well since it avoids the more serious problem I have with the V-bit after the very end breaks off -- the tool length changes. This will not happen with the round nose and will save a lot of projects for me.
@@danielsmullen3223 Indeed round noses are much stronger! I think I will stick to those too, when I can find them.
superbe comme toujours , bravo et merci !
Merci!
I know your feeling when you see it…. Great job, congrats to share it, amazing really good.
Love your videos! Is there a list you can give me of the bits you used in this? Manufacturer, type, size ect. please. It’s really hard to see them in the video on my phone. Thanks!
Thanks! I've made this tutorial, it's in French but I've added English subtitles. I hope it helps. th-cam.com/video/VXQvz7v-ifA/w-d-xo.html
Awesome work. I wonder if you have a video or thoughts about what type of image to use? It needs to be an SVG, but should I search for line art, or something else? Is this something you just learn with experience? I'm sure some images work great, whereas others are impossible. How can I tell the difference?
Thanks! SVG works better but Vcarve can 'trace' well-contrasted bitmaps too. Indeed with a bit of experience (= after messing up a lot of projects :D ) you can easily spot images that have too narrow parts and will not carve easily/properly. I spend quite a bit of time correcting images (widening some strokes, removing some others, etc).
Very, very nice work. Would you consider sharing the VCarve files for this design or any other design that incorporates a TBN so I might see how you've done it?
Sure let me know how I can send them to you.
What bit are you using? I was using a 15 degree Amana vbit and it broke on my first detailed inlay. It was ceramic, yours looks metal, would love to know the brand! Great video by the way, stopping those thin male pieces from splintering and breaking is really difficult.
Thanks! I mostly use those V-bits: www.aliexpress.com/item/33034695014.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.72f64c4dh7W2bT
What was the machining time for the smaller letters on the female part of the inlay? Just ordered a 10 degree tapered ball nose bit to use for this and wondering how long it will take
It's quite long ago and it will depend much on which CNC you use. I'd say about an hour.
Hi, Thank you for the video. One question How did you call this bit: th-cam.com/video/sW82qnea4VA/w-d-xo.html
in your tool database as a v-bit ? can you make a picture and show us.
Thank you again
Thanks, here is the setup for that bit: www.dropbox.com/s/9sug88j6x6it9r8/VBit.png?dl=0
@@stephanforseilles BIG THX
Wondering if you have links to any of the bits you use? Looks like you buy off-brand ones that aren't $60 a pop?
Indeed, they're quite cheap. I use those ones, mainly: www.aliexpress.com/item/33034695014.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.46c54c4d81JlEA
stephan, great informative video's about inlay's, you explain it in a way that just makes sense, I've recently purchased a hammer 47-82 cnc machine which is running off eding control software which I notice you use as well, my problem is that any projects I do appear to be larger by a ratio of 1.2 and all text gets cut back to front and my X and Y axis appear to be reversed, have you had issues with eding or was your software okay straight out of the box ! any help would be greatly received, keep up the great work, it is most inspiring,
kind regards
Neil
Thanks Neil. Eding works perfect for me but you probably have to adjust some parameters like the step/mm (or step/in) ratio, direction of movement, etc. Normally this is explained by the supplier of the CNC or even given through a macro that specific to the machine.
@@stephanforseilles thanks for the info. Will have a search and see what I can find. Keep lucky
I am only 2 mins into the video. Why are you not using a stop block on your sledge? I am sure you did on another video of yours.
At around 2 min I just cut the borders square with the sledge. Just after, for cutting stripes (where I use the fence), it would be usedull to use the sledge but it depends on the board. If it's thicker, I can't get the blade high enough to go through with the thickness of the sledge's base.I think I used 18mm chipbpard, a bit too thick but that's what I had at hand. :)
Would not call that a tutorial.
This one one more tutorialesque: th-cam.com/video/RY0zLv3wcyc/w-d-xo.html
I like it
Do you rezero your X and Y every time you remove and replace the board from the setup? I am about to do a board on my Shapeoko and I know I can keep the board in the same place with a fixture but I'm worried if my machine resets or powers off that I will lose my X and Y and have a hard time keeping the logo aligned with multiple inlays and tool paths. I've done lots of single material inlays this will be my first attempt at inlays that require running the female side multiple time. Any recommendations?
If your machine has a homing procedure, then you can either save the position as a preset or write down and jog to the absolute coordinates of your 0. But if it doesn't have a home procedure/switches and you need to restart the controller in between passes, then you'll have to mark the 0 and jog there. Best is to mark it with a very fined point pencil and use your sharpest V-bit to jog there as precisely as possible. In any case it's better to have a jig un place to make sure your put your board in the same position: 0 might be easier to find but any change in alignment will make a disaster. :)
And a small trick of you lose the mark of 0 (or if it was removed by the carving itself): in Vcarve, I'll change my 0,0 coordinates in material setup until I reach a very distinctive feature of the drawing (like the tip of a pointy letter, etc) and use that as my new 0.
Great job and thanks alot for sharing your knowledge. Was this design custom made or did you just come up with an idea and put it up for sale later?
Thanks! I came up with the idea as it's a gift for a Trekkie friend.
🖖May you forever ove long and prosper.
How long did it take you to learn ow to do this? from never using cnc before?
About a year.
Just found your channel. Great information and I am a new subscriber. Can you share the speeds and feeds your using with each endmill please.
Thanks! I vary them a lot depending on the circumstances. If you look at my latest video, I included a screen capture of the whole CAM part so you can see all feeds and speeds. For the next one I'll try not to forget to write them down and I'll overlay on the video!
@@stephanforseilles Thanks So Much
Do you have a link to buy the 6mm 10 degree roundtip?
I mostly use those ones: www.aliexpress.com/item/33034695014.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.72f64c4dh7W2bT
Very cool. How thick are your final cutting boards?.
Thanks. Around 35-40mm for the smaller ones and 50-55mm for the larger ones.
Very impressive. Is that an exacto blade at 10:10 or something else?
Almost. Actually a cheap knock-off from Amazon. :)
Stephan, as I've said before, this is absolutely stunning. I feel I've tried just about everything I can think of when it comes to making inlays with a tapered ball nose end mill, and nothing seems to work. Would you consider sharing the VCarve files for this design or any other design that incorporates a TBN so I might see how you've done it?
Sure, I can email you some VCarve files!
@@stephanforseilles Fantastic! alexander@pixelarmoury.com is a good address :) Thank you so much!
@@stephanforseillesgday mate love you work, any chance of some helpful hints and guidance?
Regards Jason A
Hi Stefan
I work with the tool selection in millimeters rather than inches
What choice can I get on the thinnest tool from the list?
Hello! I work in mm too, all is in mm in my videos. Are you talking about the tools list in VCarve? I never use the default tools, I always create mine from scratch and you can select in or mm so you can go as little as possible. But I've never seen CNC bits with a diameter smaller than 3.175mm (1/8").
@@stephanforseilles
VCARV /POCET?
Thanks for the feedback!!
When I build a tool track for working in thin / small lines, it gives me a note that the tool I chose is not good. I am interested in doing a male and a male VCARV /POCET?
@@טוניכהן-ג3פ You need to use a carving or a v-bit or else it will not be able to carve lines that are smaller than the diameter of the tool.
@@stephanforseilles
Thanks
I have Vcetrick 10.5 and I work with V milling
Sometimes I design a male male he gives me a note that the tool I have chosen is not suitable
I also saw that you use another tool for cleaning a large area at work in your video I see but do not understand so much because it is very fast
And can not learn so easily the editing of the project, im I can send you a picture of a comment I get while editing the project it will be good so you can understand what problem I have
10° tu utilises des fraises de plus en plus pointues 😊
Toujours aussi magnifique
Merci. Oui la 10°... Difficiles à trouver... c'est pour ça que souvent j'utilise du 15 ou 20. Mais le 10° permet d'aller profond même sur des détails fins.
could you have epoxied the spot where you put the ship?
Indeed I could have put food-grade epoxy. But fo a cutting board never put epoxy on top because I'm afraid it would quickly get scratched by the knives.
Bonjour et bravo pour ce résultat. Avez vous une référence pour commander la fraise connique de 10° que vous utilisez dans ce projet ?
Bonjour je l'avais trouvée sur Amazon mais malheureusement elle n'a plus l'air disponible, j'ai du me rabattre sur des 15. 🥲
@@stephanforseilles merci pour la réponse mais sans être exigeant, vous auriez une réf, un lien, où des mots clé pour chercher ce type de fraise , même en 15° ?
@@toutikini voilà ce qui ressemble le plus amzn.to/3cm53aW
@@stephanforseilles merci
Great project.
Great work, Stephan. I watched every single vid and it helped me understand how aspire works. Even more than the Vectric tutorials.
For the male,it should be mirror?
Indeed you have to mirror your layout for the plug.
Nice ! the ship looks great :)
Thanks!
How large of a glue gap do you use?
0.5 to 1mm.
That I want one pls
I can give you the VCarve files if you want to make yourself one. ;)
what woods are you using in this video ?
Base is beech inlays are oak, padauk and walnut.
@@stephanforseilles Thanks. Live long and prosper my friend.
Is that a tapered 1/32" bit you are using? Outstanding fix on the gap! I'll remember that tip.
Thanks. It's a 10 degree V-bit with a 0.25mm tip.