Deep inlay with full CAM process in Vectric Vcarve
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ก.ย. 2024
- This is the whole process of creating an inlaid cutting board using offcuts from my backyard deck. I show the complete step-by-step including CAM setup (with depths, bits and feeds & speeds) in Vectric Vcarve.
My tutorial on deep V-carved inlays: • Deep inlays VCarving d...
Build of the blanks: • Deep inlay with full C...
CAM for the pocket: • Deep inlay with full C...
Machining of the pocket: • Deep inlay with full C...
CAM for the plug: • Deep inlay with full C...
Machining of the plug: • Deep inlay with full C...
Assembly and clean-up: • Deep inlay with full C...
Making everything watertight: • Deep inlay with full C...
Finishing: • Deep inlay with full C...
Thank you for sharing.
Toujours un plaisir de retrouver tes vidéos
Thank you for an awesome video! Especially explaining the tool paths for the plug.
Beautiful piece of craftsmanship Stephan. I would have liked you to have paused a little longer on your selections in Vectric as I am always open to what it can do. My limited use of Photoshop has fascinated me with it's capabilities as does Vectric. I love exposing the different textures of various wood and putting them together, always an interesting outcome like you cutting board. I don't believe I will ever have enough clamps.🙂
Awesome project. Thanks for sharing!!
Very nice work! Not your first one I can tell.
Great build and great video!
Such a nice piece 😍
Nice video. Reminded me that I hate working with Padauk, pipe clamps are a love/hate relationship and your final board is ALWAYS 1” too wide for your planer.
Thanks. I agree with all of that. :D
When I was thinking of using floorboards for cutting boards, I asked the manufacturer who said they are always treated. Might be worth checking for these if you haven't already.
Yes I checked with the supplier. Those are specifically untreated so you can decide your finish (or no finish at all if you're happy for them to tuen grey quite quickly).
It's a pity that you don't provide parameters for the diameters of the cutters you use
The craftsmanship of machines is amazing. 😅
Praise to our robotic overlords!
Very nice! Congrats from south Brasil.
Awesome job!
Great video Stephen, I especially liked the fact that you showed the clamping, so many tutorials don't and I'm sure it throws people. I also liked that you showed the filling of some tiny holes (again, many don't). I'm interested as to why you cut the beech down width ways before glueing it back together again, was this just becasue you wanted uniform widths when you turned it end grain?
Thanks. Indeed I try to avoid too large pieces so it looks better and it's more stable (by alternating the pieces).
Good evening Stephan. Your works are very beautiful. Speaking of padouk worked in end grain mode: in the finishing phase with oil or varnish, the color of the padouk becomes very dark, and the red of the wood is almost not perceived, which does not happen with face grain processing. Do you have any suggestions or do you know of any products to bring out the red of padouk when processed in end grain mode? I have some photos to show you the problem but I don't know how to get them to you.
Thanks for sharing your works.
I use clear mineral oil, that's what gives me the best results but it's indeed darker, unfortunately. I never use varnish as those are in contact with food.
Excellent vidéo! Mais je suis surpris que tu utilises la colle CA à la fin, étant donné qu'elle n'est pas Food Safe. Pourquoi pas continuer avec la Titebond III et saw dust comme tu as fait sur le inlay?
Merci! Effectivement ça serait mieux mais il faut attendre 24h entre chaque application. Quand c'est pour une vidéo...
very Nice,,, Great job!!!!
Another nice board! I would love to do a board in Padauk, but it is very expensive in the USA, and a little difficult to find.
It's pretty common here for (higher end) decks. It drives me a but mad because we have to get padauk from Asia or Africa while we have plenty of oak here in central Europe but but it's all bought for export to China so we can hardly get some. :(
Hello amazed by this excellent tutorial and beautiful work, thank you very much for sharing.
I see some very small vectors (5 or 10) Is it not necessary to remove them? or the software ignores them? From Colombia thank you very much
Thanks! If they're too small for the bit, the software will ignore them on the female side BUT they light show up on the male side, so, indeed, better do some cleanup. :)
Hi , very nice video . Tell me please what is the brand of CNC you nave .Thank you.
Thanks. My CNC comes from SOROTEC in Germany. Very satisfied with it. :)
Excelente trabajo, talvez me podrías ayudar con el link de la página donde compras los diseños para Aspire?
Gracias. Usé los modelos que vienen con Aspire (en la biblioteca) y compro algunos diseños baratos en www.etsy.com/
I like how you don't say a word in this video. It's really annoying when they talk. Subscribed.
Bonjour, super boulot, aurais-tu un lien pour acheter les petits pieds que tu mets en dessous de la planche stp ?
Merci! C'est ceux-ci: www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B01LD3L9PW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1QXJ8JQ1XG0TA&psc=1
Is that the widest bit to do that project of getting off the glue and leveling?
There are wider levelling bits but on end grain they get dull quickly and do vibrate a lot. So I prefer using a thinner solid bit and go faster.
Good morning Stefan , very nice job ! I can see that you are using V Carve 11. This new version includes now an option for inlay calculations. Have you ever tried this option? the tool path path is pretty easy for the female part but I am still afraid with toolpath for the male part.
thank you
Hello! As far as I remember, this option is for straight inlays with an offset, I'm not sure it worls for v-carved inlays.
Stephan, fantastic as always! Could you share what bits you are using and the settings for those bits? I'm still struggling with getting Zank math to line up with tapered ball nose end mills...
Thanks! I V-carve with a 6mm 10° tapered ball nose .25mm which I configure as an Engraving bit. That's what gives me the best results: www.dropbox.com/s/5e2fv6tuewpwis7/Screenshot%202023-01-29%20at%2010.55.11.png?dl=0
@@stephanforseilles That looks like the Huhao H18010105 that I've been using for a while as well. Are you using the "normal" Zank math (i.e pocket of 7mm and plug with start depth of 6 and flat depth of 2 yields a plug that goes in 6mm and sticks out 2) or are you using some kind of table to correlate start depth/flat depth and observed plug insert depth?
Would love to know your female and male depth settings.
I can't really remember for that one but by go to values are around:
-Pocket: SD 0, FD 10mm
-Plug: SD: 8mm, FD 2mm
I have a full tutorial on depth with lots of schematics.
Mamma mia que bella!!!
Perhaps an oversight, but you forgot to mention that the plug has to be mirrored, off of the relief.
Of course, no body can remember everything, and time constraints also come in to play as well.
How many times have I forgotten to mirror the plug and remembered at the time of glue up... It's part of the learning curve I guess. :D
Bonjour Stephan peux-tu me dire comment tu renseignes les infos de ta fraise vbit 10° dans Vcarve, fraise engraving ou conique, si engraving le tip est bien le diamètre de la fraise donc 0.5 à remplir ? en conique vcarve demande le rayon de la fraise. Et dans les deux champs de recouvrement tu mets combien en pourcentage ?
Bonjour, elle est encodée comme 'engraving', 5° par face, 0.5mm (ou 0.25mm) flat diameter. Je met 40% en stepover et 100% en clearance stepover. Je mettrais bien une capture d'écran mais pas possible dans les commentaires. :(
Dis moi, ou puis-je trouver les tubes filetés pour les serre joint dormants ?
Dans les magasins de bricolage, ce sont des tuyaux de chauffage pré-filetés.
how did you know the plug was 20mm when you planed it after gluing it
That's what I had foreseen in my CAM and... I measured with callipers to make sure. ;)
couldnt you zero the machine off the top surface of the cutting board and then run a clearance tool path and a cut depth of 0mm
Hello Stephan,
Awesome work on the inlays!
I looked up a few of your videos to find which V-Carve bit you are using and can’t find it.
I see in your tool-paths it says “CNCFR V10 .25 8 800”.
Can your provide a link?
Especially, an affiliate link so that I can support you and your awesome work in some way.
Cheers!
Thanks! I buy them from a french company, www.cncfraises.fr/carving/392-fraise-2-dents-10-degres-2d-3d-v-carving-inlay-queue-6-mm.html
I don't know of any shop in the US but I'm pretty sure they exist!. You can find cheap versions on Aliexpress but they're less rigid and wear out quite quickly. They're good however for learning and testing! nl.aliexpress.com/item/33034695014.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef79d23t6PZh&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld
Stephan that 10 degree VBit is that a bullnose bit?
Yes, it has a .25mm rounded nose.
Very nice board Stephen! The solid sound of the inlay is reassuring that the plug is in there adequately. Do you use those plug carving settings for all your inlays regardless of size?
Thanks! I adapt the depth to the inly. When I have large areas I use at least 7mm over 8mm to ensure sufficient solidity. For more delicate inlays, I use 4/5mm.
Bonjour Stéphan, sur quel site as-tu acheté ton fichier?
Bonjour. Ici: svgsnake.com/product/pirate-skull-svg-pirate-svg-pirate-skull-cross-sword-svg/
Merci!
Please help
I am starting with my first end grain cutting board.
My table is 30mm thick but after grinding the two faces with my cnc the next day the table buckles or curves 2.5mm
I don't know what to do and I don't know why it happens
if someone can help me i appreciate it
Thank you
Hello. There might be several reasons, the first coming to mind is that the wood is not dry enough. With humidity and temperature differences, it will bent. You could also make sure the wood acclimates to your shop because if it comes from a place with different temperature and humidity (outside, for example), it can warp for several days. So take it in the shop and wait a couple of days before working on it. Last thing: 30mm is not very thick for end grain, I generally do at least 40mm (finished board). I hope that helps!
@@stephanforseilles Hello, thank you very much for answering, I will work with your recommendations
Do you sell your programs for the projects.
No. I gladly give away my Vcarve files when there is no copyright but in that case there is one on the design which I bought on ETSY.
❤❤ что за программа
Nice work as always! What v-bit are you using and where can one be purchased?
Thanks! This is my go-to for detailed inlays: www.cncfraises.fr/carving/392-fraise-2-dents-10-degres-2d-3d-v-carving-inlay-queue-6-mm.html
@@stephanforseilles thank you!
@@stephanforseilles So it appears they do not ship to the USA. Do you know of another company that supplies these bits?
You made a deck out of padouk ! ! ! What are you? Rich or something? ;o)
Well it's about the cheapest of the hard woods around here. I had originally made this deck in a kind of pine that was supposed to be treated for 20 years but I had to remove everything after less than 10. Not again. :)
@@stephanforseilles I guess it's all about location!
🤦 𝐩𝓻Ỗ𝓂Ø𝓈Ｍ
HAHA very misleading title