Thanks for the video! Some constructive suggestions: 1) Remove the coolant drain plug before removing the rad cap. That way coolant will not gush out all over you. 2) Rock the bike from side to side while straddling it. That will drain more coolant from the engine. 2) Leave the rad cap off when starting the engine. That way air can be burped from the system 3) To burp the system, quickly rev the engine and snap shut the throttle. Do this 3 or 4 times. Then shut off the engine and refill the rad to the bottom of the filler neck. Restart the engine and do the throttle burping again. Repeat until the coolant level does not fall anymore in the rad after burping. 4) You can re-use the copper washer, but anneal it each time. Annealing involves heating the washer red hot with a propane torch, then allow it to air cool. Do not quench the washer in water. That will harden it and make it brittle. You want the washer to be soft and compliant. If you want the washer to look shiny again, use some steel wool to remove any oxidation.
I’ve just got around to changing the coolant on my 2017 UK NC750X DCT after 4 years ownership,it was my Lucky day Adrian when I found your home maintenance videos on You tube. I try to do all the work myself at home in Yorkshire & your superb easy to follow step by step guides are invaluable. As a result you are my go to when I need advice on how to tackle any jobs on my NC. You are an Absolute Star Sir & I look forwards to the notifications bell knowing something New is ready to view,keep up the Amazing work my Friend- John D.
Hi, I would like to thank you for the many informative and interesting videos. I like to watch them and I am always happy when there is a new video of you. thank you from Germany
Great ! To avoid dirtying the engine I undone the screw under before opening the radiator. I also press the hoses to expel the air while filling Thanks a lot for your work and sharing it with us
Love the videos. I was in the market for a long distance commuter and these maintenance videos convinced me the NC was a smart purchase, so easy to maintain. Anyway just something I noticed, the manual calls for a ethylene glycol antifreeze containing silicate-"FREE" corrosion inhibitors. You have a silicate based coolant, I'm not sure if it's worst thing in the world might be bad for the pump. I get the idea of using the red colour though, I use my phone light from behind the reservoir to make it easier. On the subject of deviating from the manual you might want to check the valve clearance video again. You got your cylinder numbers around the wrong way and based on the cam wheel, you were 180 out from the top dead centre of the cylinder you where going for. But hey I'm not a mechanic either, don't trust me. Electronics is more my thing, less grease more zap.
If your going from the green/blue coolant to the OAT pink stuff(both are ethylene glycol) be worth flushing through with clean water as they don't like mixing with each other( they form a gooey substance), just pour water through the radiator, hoses and wash out the overflow bottle, that'll be plenty good enough to get 99% of any leftover blue coolant. Love how easy these bikes are to work on.
I also changed from the green that came with the bike to red without cleaning the 1% left in the system. Haven't experienced any gooey substances. The service manual says any ethilene glycol silicate free will do, and the red I bought said on the bottle that it can be mixed with any other ethylene glycol. What I did notice today after 1 year was some tiny black flakes in the bottom of the expansion tank. Should I be worried with these?
i will be changing the coolant on my 700 xd in the next few weeks.its a job i have never tried before and now find myself a wee bit confused as to where to drain the old coolant from.do i drain from bleed screw detailed in the video or from the water pump,thanks.
Great instructions. I was only able to put in 1.3 litres, even after closing an revving and topping up (NC700X DCT). Let's see after the first drive. Used Castrol Radicool SF.
@Author: Thanks for the video! Is the large bottom pipe supposed to be so brown? (Rusted?) Is it just on the surface or is that going deeper, eventually leading to the pipe replacement? (I'm guessing it's the exhaust). Also, do you need to "fully flush out" the old coolant to clear the system? Thank you
I just did a complete flush I filled the reservoir and then I fill the radiator to the top I let it run for three minutes gave it a couple revs Open it back up put a dab more closed it do you think that is enough Around the bike the fan went on make sure the thermostat kick the fan on I think I’m good
Hey bud Quick question I wasn’t aware that the radiator cap had to be open to get the air out so I did so this morning my other question I never measured the exact amount of coolant I pretty much emptied everything and refilled it to the fill line and the radiator fill line This morning I opened it up and I let it run gave it a couple blips I started to notice coolant was rising up the radiator neck so I shut the bike is that normal she took 1 and almost 3/4 of 1 quart Honda coolant I just wanna make sure that it’s not overfilled The coolant level when the bike is a temperature is at the upper line of the Reservoir
Gday mate i recieved the cb 500 today and while stuffing around fitting centre stands and bleeding brakes i noticed the overflow bottle looked like it was empty , i have only run the engine for a short period of time but i intend to do this hopefully tommorow or very soon .I dont know if it is empty or what but i dont want to cook my engine ,looking at the service record the bike has travelled 3000 kmin the last 3 years debating f to do an oil change or not but it looks clean .It has been near the sea as some parts have minor corrosion on them from what i would say is salt air, when you changed the coolant did you go for any specific brand ? i like the idea of the red coolant seems to stand out more against the white bottle might do that as well , I can see why now i became a carpenter and not a mechanic .
It’s a pain to get to the overflow bottle on the CB. Sure it should be filled to the “full” mark but it shouldn’t be a problem if it’s a bit low - so long as the radiator is full (when cold). Taking the cap off the radiator is also a pain as cowling has to be removed first!
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff ive done the coolant replacement the coolant that was in there was blue ,this is normally green thats how long it has been sitting in there ,with that in mind i did an oil change and filter as well seeing the last service was in 2016 , fitted the centre stand and found out they have changed the mufler it is of a 500r so no stopper for the stand more manufacturing fitted the bark busters but they have changed the handlebars so more fafing around to get them to fit i wonder what else i will find ?
mine nc is 4 years old, too lazy to change coolant. TBH don't think is necessary but good training video anyway. BTW what cruise control do you have there? where to get it?
Last week I topped off my NCX reservoir with a bit of coolant to bring it up to the full line. Only after doing this did I realize it was LOW silicate coolant... not silicate-free. Do you think this matters, or should I drain the entire system? Thanks as always for the video!
I just finished the whole process The day before yesterday I got up this morning I checked the coolant in the reservoir it went down a little so I just filled it up and I also checked the radiator cap that was still filled to the neck I just added some coolant to the top fill one and buttoned everything back up is that normal and ok ?
You need to remove rhs flow coolant pipe off the rad bottom and push it down to drain it. Recommend flushing system with water before coolant type change.
Last question does the ctx have an over fill just in case it’s over filled because the manual says at working temp the reservoir should be between low and full mine is on full
Ok I got back from my ride I’m just a hair under the full mark on the reservoir tank I’m guessing that’s OK I did not know it had to be done with somebody sitting on the bike straight so I had my girlfriend sit on the bike I open the radiator open the reservoir I’ll let the bike run couple minutes gave it a few pumps of the throttle and Tried to get all the air out and then I buttoned it up Hopefully she is OK but right now I’m running temperature it’s right under the top fill line
Hello, can I ask a question, my NC700s shows that the coolant reservoir tank is slightly a bit under the LOWER line. When I unscrew and remove the radiator cap, the coolant is right there on the top, looks like the radiator is completely full with collant. Since I am not really comfortable draining a complete cooling system, can I just fill up the coolant reservoir to UPPER line, would that do the business? Thank you for the video.
I bought a second hand 2014 750S around April this year. I changed the coolant today, red color - Penrite Race Coolant Inhibitor. Just a question because this video was 4 years ago if you ever had any problems with your 750x with the red coolant? Thanks.
my dear friend color isnt an issue. you just upgraded your cooling sysrtem from INTor IAT to HOAT ... much more sophisticated and safer coolant for all engine parts.!!!!! and raised the boiling point about 20%!!!! i wonder why manufacturers put this INT crap ... well done!!!
Hi! i just adjusted the valves, and as you know i then also took off the radiator and got the collant out. I refilled my bike with red coolant (silicate free) ofcourse. But when i refilled it, there was some "greenish" coolant floating to the radiator-top. Im afraid of everything people say about the mixing of coolant. What should i do? Change it again? Or am i ok? How much of the old "green?" coolant that was in there originally is BAD for my bike when mixed with red?
It wasn't apparent that you weren't using a different type, after all it says on the bottle 8 year or 50k miles yet you were changing at a 2 years interval, it seemed like you were switching.
Hİ, have you ever clean the fins of the radiator ? Because my radiator is filled with road dirt and I am worried about the cooling capacity decrease due to reduction on heat transfer area.
I’m no expert but I don’t see how a radiator flush is necessary. I used to use it in the very old days before glycol and when engine blocks were cast steel. A flush helped remove rust!
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Makes a lot of sense, cheers Adrian, you've saved me at least £150 so far, if you ever come to London I'm buying you and Wendy dinner.
Don’t know if later models had led headlights. Not that it matters. Only the desperate or insane ride at night in Oz unless it’s in the middle of a city. There is way too high a chance of hitting a kangaroo and completely ruining your day, not to mention your body and bike.
jess pereira - top up? Should never be required if you don’t have coolant links. Replace? I can’t advise as I’m no expert. But I replace each two years.
@@emynet6758 no. Cioè usi acqua corrente per buttare fuori tutto. Poi con aria compressa fai uscire l'acqua rimasta dentro. Poi miscela al 50% di liquido concentrato con acqua distillata (o liquido già pronto ma preferisco la miscela), e si riempie il circuito.
I just love your vids. Reminds me of my cuzzies super annoying Aussie twang that I like to snub out with a nice head butt. Anyway, enough of the pleasantries, can you help me get a NC 750X DCT manual. And Service manual? I am a Pommy living in Japan. I bought a 2016 NC 750X DCT here in Tokyo, but my dealer tells me I cannot get English manuals? OK, I'm a whining pom, ....so....golly! Honda is one of the major global bike manufactures, and despite selling motorbikes in all corners of the world, they still do not offer English manuals online?
Yes. It’s an excellent way for the bike shops to get extra cash from us. In Oz the warranty laws don’t allow dealers to insist on “Honda parts”, only that the part is of equivalent. Anyway warranties are there to promote the dealer cash flow not protect the buyer. I’ve always done all my own maintenance from new. But we all must do what we feel is best for us.
Just took ownership of one of these machines "fully serviced" my buttocks. coolant hasn't been changed in 6 years and it looks like there's too much oil in it... oh and the brake fluid has never been changed either...
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff yeah, pretty much why I checked it, only picked the bike up on saturday, did some tidying up and fitted a centerstand, cracked-loose some ceased bolts to change the tail bulb for an LED one. new heated grips and all the juices are for today/tomorrow depending when stuff arrives.
Honda brake fluid seems a lot darker than Castrol brake fluid i usually use in my bikes, so might find it has been changed if a dealer has done it. I much prefer using Castrol and seeing it nice and light in colour.
@@urbanfireblade maybe it starts out a little darker, but darker or not, it was dark brown (like cola dark) opaque and had started to crystallise, so I flushed the lot.
Thanks for the video! Some constructive suggestions:
1) Remove the coolant drain plug before removing the rad cap. That way coolant will not gush out all over you.
2) Rock the bike from side to side while straddling it. That will drain more coolant from the engine.
2) Leave the rad cap off when starting the engine. That way air can be burped from the system
3) To burp the system, quickly rev the engine and snap shut the throttle. Do this 3 or 4 times.
Then shut off the engine and refill the rad to the bottom of the filler neck. Restart the engine and do the throttle burping again.
Repeat until the coolant level does not fall anymore in the rad after burping.
4) You can re-use the copper washer, but anneal it each time. Annealing involves heating the washer red hot with a propane torch, then allow it to air cool.
Do not quench the washer in water. That will harden it and make it brittle. You want the washer to be soft and compliant.
If you want the washer to look shiny again, use some steel wool to remove any oxidation.
Thank you!! Every dealership wanted $330 (parts+ labor) to do this on my 2018 Nc750x. Unbelievable. California craziness…
oh my! should start a garage there.
Your videos are elegant and very informative- thank you for all that you do!
Just picked up a nc750x, your videos are great for helping me get to know the bike! Appreciate it a lot!
I’ve just got around to changing the coolant on my 2017 UK NC750X DCT after 4 years ownership,it was my Lucky day Adrian when I found your home maintenance videos on You tube. I try to do all the work myself at home in Yorkshire & your superb easy to follow step by step guides are invaluable. As a result you are my go to when I need advice on how to tackle any jobs on my NC.
You are an Absolute Star Sir & I look forwards to the notifications bell knowing something New is ready to view,keep up the Amazing work my Friend- John D.
John, you are too kind. But thanks. Glad to hear someone else doing their own maintenance.
Thanks to this tutorial I changed my coolant today... Bike has 71000km and showing no signs of dying anytime soon 😉
William Daniels - well done. Nothing like the feeling of doing the job yourself.
Its just broken in. Sir.
Hi, I would like to thank you for the many informative and interesting videos. I like to watch them and I am always happy when there is a new video of you. thank you from Germany
Your videos are well made with simple instructions. Make more! Thank you for London.
Great !
To avoid dirtying the engine I undone the screw under before opening the radiator.
I also press the hoses to expel the air while filling
Thanks a lot for your work and sharing it with us
Love the videos. I was in the market for a long distance commuter and these maintenance videos convinced me the NC was a smart purchase, so easy to maintain.
Anyway just something I noticed, the manual calls for a ethylene glycol antifreeze containing silicate-"FREE" corrosion inhibitors. You have a silicate based coolant, I'm not sure if it's worst thing in the world might be bad for the pump. I get the idea of using the red colour though, I use my phone light from behind the reservoir to make it easier.
On the subject of deviating from the manual you might want to check the valve clearance video again. You got your cylinder numbers around the wrong way and based on the cam wheel, you were 180 out from the top dead centre of the cylinder you where going for.
But hey I'm not a mechanic either, don't trust me. Electronics is more my thing, less grease more zap.
Thanks for all your videos - much enjoyed and appreciated
Thank you for this, perfectly clear.
If your going from the green/blue coolant to the OAT pink stuff(both are ethylene glycol) be worth flushing through with clean water as they don't like mixing with each other( they form a gooey substance), just pour water through the radiator, hoses and wash out the overflow bottle, that'll be plenty good enough to get 99% of any leftover blue coolant. Love how easy these bikes are to work on.
Yes I should have done that. But haven’t experienced the problem you described.
I also changed from the green that came with the bike to red without cleaning the 1% left in the system. Haven't experienced any gooey substances. The service manual says any ethilene glycol silicate free will do, and the red I bought said on the bottle that it can be mixed with any other ethylene glycol. What I did notice today after 1 year was some tiny black flakes in the bottom of the expansion tank. Should I be worried with these?
Thanks for the complete video. I'm going through them before I service my 2016. Very helpful!
Hey thank you for the video. Do you have any suggestion on how much to tighten the drain plug bolt when I reinstall it?
No really. I just tighten till it’s firm using a small spanner.
Appreciate the reply, sounds good
Could you share the workshop manual for NC750X? Please 😊
If you join the Facebook group “Honda NC750X Owners Group” you can download a manual from the “files” section.
Great! Your video is extremely detailed. Thank you
i will be changing the coolant on my 700 xd in the next few weeks.its a job i have never tried before and now find myself a wee bit confused as to where to drain the old coolant from.do i drain from bleed screw detailed in the video or from the water pump,thanks.
You should always follow the service manual not some idiot on TH-cam 🤓
Great instructions. I was only able to put in 1.3 litres, even after closing an revving and topping up (NC700X DCT). Let's see after the first drive. Used Castrol Radicool SF.
Very informative as always. Thanks Adrian.
Thanks, where to find instructions of the end of your tutorial?
It's part of the workshop manual. It's not free but worth the money.
@Author: Thanks for the video! Is the large bottom pipe supposed to be so brown? (Rusted?) Is it just on the surface or is that going deeper, eventually leading to the pipe replacement? (I'm guessing it's the exhaust). Also, do you need to "fully flush out" the old coolant to clear the system? Thank you
where do you think could be the best place to adapt a temp gauge valve?
I just did a complete flush I filled the reservoir and then I fill the radiator to the top I let it run for three minutes gave it a couple revs Open it back up put a dab more closed it do you think that is enough Around the bike the fan went on make sure the thermostat kick the fan on I think I’m good
Yep. You’re good
It took 1 1/2 bottles of the pro Honda hp 50/50 mix
Hey bud Quick question I wasn’t aware that the radiator cap had to be open to get the air out so I did so this morning my other question I never measured the exact amount of coolant I pretty much emptied everything and refilled it to the fill line and the radiator fill line This morning I opened it up and I let it run gave it a couple blips I started to notice coolant was rising up the radiator neck so I shut the bike is that normal she took 1 and almost 3/4 of 1 quart Honda coolant I just wanna make sure that it’s not overfilled The coolant level when the bike is a temperature is at the upper line of the Reservoir
Yes. That’s normal
Gday mate i recieved the cb 500 today and while stuffing around fitting centre stands and bleeding brakes i noticed the overflow bottle looked like it was empty , i have only run the engine for a short period of time but i intend to do this hopefully tommorow or very soon .I dont know if it is empty or what but i dont want to cook my engine ,looking at the service record the bike has travelled 3000 kmin the last 3 years debating f to do an oil change or not but it looks clean .It has been near the sea as some parts have minor corrosion on them from what i would say is salt air, when you changed the coolant did you go for any specific brand ? i like the idea of the red coolant seems to stand out more against the white bottle might do that as well , I can see why now i became a carpenter and not a mechanic .
It’s a pain to get to the overflow bottle on the CB. Sure it should be filled to the “full” mark but it shouldn’t be a problem if it’s a bit low - so long as the radiator is full (when cold).
Taking the cap off the radiator is also a pain as cowling has to be removed first!
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff ive done the coolant replacement the coolant that was in there was blue ,this is normally green thats how long it has been sitting in there ,with that in mind i did an oil change and filter as well seeing the last service was in 2016 , fitted the centre stand and found out they have changed the mufler it is of a 500r so no stopper for the stand more manufacturing fitted the bark busters but they have changed the handlebars so more fafing around to get them to fit i wonder what else i will find ?
crispernator - all part of the fun of bonding with the bike 😁
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff i was going to change the muffler but after all this mucking about i may just keep it on for good .
mine nc is 4 years old, too lazy to change coolant. TBH don't think is necessary but good training video anyway. BTW what cruise control do you have there? where to get it?
is the nc700 and 750 follows the same instructions for everything you have published so far?
J - sorry don’t know. I’ve no experience with the 700.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff I'm changing the coolant on my 2012 NC700 today, so I might be able to help answer this question.
Last week I topped off my NCX reservoir with a bit of coolant to bring it up to the full line. Only after doing this did I realize it was LOW silicate coolant... not silicate-free. Do you think this matters, or should I drain the entire system?
Thanks as always for the video!
Mike K - I’m no expert but I don’t think it matters for a top up quantity.
That's what I was thinking as well. Thanks.
I just finished the whole process The day before yesterday I got up this morning I checked the coolant in the reservoir it went down a little so I just filled it up and I also checked the radiator cap that was still filled to the neck I just added some coolant to the top fill one and buttoned everything back up is that normal and ok ?
You need to remove rhs flow coolant pipe off the rad bottom and push it down to drain it. Recommend flushing system with water before coolant type change.
Great tutorial I now have a dct again 👍👍
Thanks bro! Your channel always helpful
Last question does the ctx have an over fill just in case it’s over filled because the manual says at working temp the reservoir should be between low and full mine is on full
All water cooled systems have an overflow.
Ok I got back from my ride I’m just a hair under the full mark on the reservoir tank I’m guessing that’s OK I did not know it had to be done with somebody sitting on the bike straight so I had my girlfriend sit on the bike I open the radiator open the reservoir I’ll let the bike run couple minutes gave it a few pumps of the throttle and Tried to get all the air out and then I buttoned it up Hopefully she is OK but right now I’m running temperature it’s right under the top fill line
Hi, I would like to thank you for listening to my request comment and the many informative videos. Thank You
Was there a sealing washer on the engine drain bolt?
Yes. Brass washer.
Hello, can I ask a question, my NC700s shows that the coolant reservoir tank is slightly a bit under the LOWER line.
When I unscrew and remove the radiator cap, the coolant is right there on the top, looks like the radiator is completely full with collant.
Since I am not really comfortable draining a complete cooling system, can I just fill up the coolant reservoir to UPPER line, would that do the business?
Thank you for the video.
Yes it will.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff thank you for the answer, safe ride
Another clear video, thanks 😊
Thanks for the video I’m getting ready to buy one of those bikes
I bought a second hand 2014 750S around April this year. I changed the coolant today, red color - Penrite Race Coolant Inhibitor. Just a question because this video was 4 years ago if you ever had any problems with your 750x with the red coolant? Thanks.
No problems. Done 97,000km to date.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff thanks mate. gives me peace of mind..
I'm curious to know what you have mounted at the base of your front forks. I've never seen that bar before, is that stock or something you added?
Richard M - I’ll do a video of it in the next couple of days. Subscribe if you haven’t already so you catch it when it’s published.
my dear friend color isnt an issue.
you just upgraded your cooling sysrtem from INTor IAT to HOAT ...
much more sophisticated and safer coolant for all engine parts.!!!!!
and raised the boiling point about 20%!!!!
i wonder why manufacturers put this INT crap ...
well done!!!
Hi! i just adjusted the valves, and as you know i then also took off the radiator and got the collant out. I refilled my bike with red coolant (silicate free) ofcourse. But when i refilled it, there was some "greenish" coolant floating to the radiator-top. Im afraid of everything people say about the mixing of coolant. What should i do? Change it again? Or am i ok? How much of the old "green?" coolant that was in there originally is BAD for my bike when mixed with red?
Sorry. I don’t know.
Surely if you are switching between types of coolant you should flush it?
funkycowie - why? It’s just a different colour. I’m not colour prejudice.
It wasn't apparent that you weren't using a different type, after all it says on the bottle 8 year or 50k miles yet you were changing at a 2 years interval, it seemed like you were switching.
Hİ, have you ever clean the fins of the radiator ? Because my radiator is filled with road dirt and I am worried about the cooling capacity decrease due to reduction on heat transfer area.
Haven’t had a dirt problem since fitting the front fender extender.
Hi Adrian, what are your thoughts on a radiator flush? My bike is on 50,000 k.
Please say you think it's unnecessary...
I’m no expert but I don’t see how a radiator flush is necessary.
I used to use it in the very old days before glycol and when engine blocks were cast steel. A flush helped remove rust!
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Makes a lot of sense, cheers Adrian, you've saved me at least £150 so far, if you ever come to London I'm buying you and Wendy dinner.
Again a great videos.i love them.
hey mate one question? isnt your bike full led? it looks like halogen lamps on front
Yes halogen. In Aus the led had not been approved for this model by Aus regulators in 2016.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff how odd!! Yes i saw people struggle a lot with car mods in australia aswell. What about 2017 or 2020 models?
Cheers from europe
Don’t know if later models had led headlights.
Not that it matters. Only the desperate or insane ride at night in Oz unless it’s in the middle of a city.
There is way too high a chance of hitting a kangaroo and completely ruining your day, not to mention your body and bike.
So do you fill the reservoir 1st then the radiator??
Doesn’t matter which is done first.
how often does one top up with coolant or go for a complete change?
jess pereira - top up? Should never be required if you don’t have coolant links.
Replace? I can’t advise as I’m no expert. But I replace each two years.
Hi🙋♂️ How much is the liquid capacity of the radiator?
1.4 L,
Brilliant 👍🏻
Quando si mette un nuovo liquido di colore diverso dal precedente, è consigliabile lavare bene il circuito con acqua corrente.
non credo con acqua normale, meglio riempire con acqua demineralizzata fargli fare un giro di motore e poi lo scarichi e riempi con il nuovo.
@@emynet6758 no. Cioè usi acqua corrente per buttare fuori tutto. Poi con aria compressa fai uscire l'acqua rimasta dentro. Poi miscela al 50% di liquido concentrato con acqua distillata (o liquido già pronto ma preferisco la miscela), e si riempie il circuito.
The drain plug referred to in this video is actually the engine air bleed screw. The drain valve for the coolant system is located on the water pump.
hi, where is the waterpump located? Can you take a image of the location? Thanks.
Great video. Thank you.
Íntegra ????
Excellent
You are Godsend!
I just love your vids. Reminds me of my cuzzies super annoying Aussie twang that I like to snub out with a nice head butt. Anyway, enough of the pleasantries, can you help me get a NC 750X DCT manual. And Service manual? I am a Pommy living in Japan. I bought a 2016 NC 750X DCT here in Tokyo, but my dealer tells me I cannot get English manuals? OK, I'm a whining pom, ....so....golly! Honda is one of the major global bike manufactures, and despite selling motorbikes in all corners of the world, they still do not offer English manuals online?
Pete Long - I suggest you join the Facebook group “Honda NC750X Owners group”. Once joined you will find resources in the “file” section
Thank you very much. Of course I was only kidding about the head butt thing. You are doing a fantastic job, and I super enjoy your vids. Thank you.
Pete Long - kidding? Really? That’s a relief. I can stop sobbing into my pillow now!
I’ve approved your membership of the NC forum.
Thank you Sooooo much. I am looking forward to head butting my brains out on my next trips to Aus :-)
You need to use Honda coolant. Useing non Honda coolant will void your warrenty.. if you have the extended one.
Yes. It’s an excellent way for the bike shops to get extra cash from us.
In Oz the warranty laws don’t allow dealers to insist on “Honda parts”, only that the part is of equivalent.
Anyway warranties are there to promote the dealer cash flow not protect the buyer. I’ve always done all my own maintenance from new.
But we all must do what we feel is best for us.
Good vidéo
Thanks for the video
Great Video, as ALWAYS on your channel!!!
thanks!
U should have flushed the engine for the old coolant - with clean ( distilled best ) water...
No need if coolant is clear.
Just took ownership of one of these machines "fully serviced" my buttocks. coolant hasn't been changed in 6 years and it looks like there's too much oil in it... oh and the brake fluid has never been changed either...
kaelin000 - hmmm. Good to do all that stuff yourself so you know it will all be perfect before you ride. Good luck.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff yeah, pretty much why I checked it, only picked the bike up on saturday, did some tidying up and fitted a centerstand, cracked-loose some ceased bolts to change the tail bulb for an LED one. new heated grips and all the juices are for today/tomorrow depending when stuff arrives.
Honda brake fluid seems a lot darker than Castrol brake fluid i usually use in my bikes, so might find it has been changed if a dealer has done it. I much prefer using Castrol and seeing it nice and light in colour.
@@urbanfireblade maybe it starts out a little darker, but darker or not, it was dark brown (like cola dark) opaque and had started to crystallise, so I flushed the lot.
Por favor saquen los subtitulos , molestan a la vision.