Great video. Im looking at doing the exact same set-up. The watt meter is very handy. What size wire did you use from the "battery to the controller" and "controller to the anderson plug (to the solar)". Im opting for a 100/20 Victron MPPT with a lithium 120 AH battery and a 275w (approx) house solar panel. Thanks in advance.
Excuse me mate I was just wondering if you can/could plug an Anderson plug straight into your solar input that runs from a dual Battery isolator Without a dc-dc charger as I don't use/have a smart alternator as my Prado is a 99 model. I just installed it to an Anderson plug in the back so I can plug in my portable battery box. My concern is that I run a lithium battery now and heard that the alternator will burn out trying to charge lithium ? Is that the case even know it goes through isolator and battery has BMS .thanks in advance. Cheers Bruce.
Good informative video, I made one similar around the same time frame, I used the 15a load output on the victron controller for driving the loads. That way I could monitor the loads on the victron ap, via bluetooth dongle. With the app I could set a custom low voltage disconnect for the loads to protect my battery. I also used the victron bluetooth temp sensor that integrates with the controller to prevent the victron from trying to charge the battery in cold weather. I liked the plug and play monitor with the anderson connectors, unfortunately I smoke mine when I wasn't paying attention to his maximum voltage and plug it into my 36 V folding sewer panel.
Great idea if you're always below 180 watts to use the Victron to power then it's all monitored and protects the battery. My lithium phosphate is rated to 100 watts continuous (although I would not go past 500 watts really) so that wouldn't be an option for me.
I prefer a bigger box to ensure it's water proof then in case you're using it outside you won't have issue with rain. In this case, you have a hole right in the top of the box, let alone the Victron just sitting there.
With the box, is there any additional ventilation you have added. I have a similar set up but tend to lift my lid when in use for air flow? Am I just being paranoid, my box is in a boot and tend to have windows cracked a bit allowing outside air in. Any suggestions for ventilation?
Was just about to comment on red andersons for PV feeds when I saw these comments, makes life easy with no accidents from people unfamiliar with set up.
where exactly would you use this? You could not mount this on the outside of a RV because the charge controller is not waterproof. If you do not use a lithium battery and they are lead acid then you have to vent this battery or mount it outside.
I'm thinking of using the 75/10 Victron to trickle charge, or is it maintain, an AGM starter battery on a boat. The panel is only 55W, but I might be able to add another 20W panel. A few questions: 1. Would the 75/10 be at its limit? 2. I think my alternator puts out 14.4V, and I've read AGM batteries take 14.6-14.8 to fully charge. If that's true can solar finish off the charging of an AGM starter battery? 3. The Victron solar controller has another 2 terminals on the unit, are they for loads, e.g. lights etc? 4. I have all the lights and stuff running off a leisure battery, the starter just does the engine. But if I can run lights off solar as well, then I would. I can't work out how I would wire it all up.
Hello, can this controller handle a 12V Renology 160W Solar Panel , 2 Renology 12V-100ah Bateries. I'm planning to Install it for a Wireless PTZ CCTV Setup with a 12V-500Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter. I will be using 123.5Watts tops (2 CCTV Cameras (75Watts) + 1 Wifi AP (8.5Watts + 2 (20Watts) IR-led Enumerator). Will this setup do the job? How many hours should I get from this setup? Thanks
I am in the design phase to transform a Sprinter 211 cdi, new (2021), L1H1, all a little tight !!!!, but perfect for use here in Europe and exploring small towns, easy to park ... etc But now I got to the point of doing the electrical project, which I'm not used to doing, I'm a civil engineer, I understand 110 / 220v AC circuits. I wish you could help me with that part. I'm Brazilian, but I also live a lot here in Portugal, where I'm going to do the conversion. Well, I started making a spreadsheet, with the equipment, the necessary power and time of daily use, I have no intention of filling the motorhome with things, not least because it is a Sprinter L1H1, and I would like to have a simple electrical installation, but I would not like have gas inside, so I would prefer a stove with only one induction zone. To heat the water it would be a D6 truma, which is diesel. But from the calculations I made and compared with others I saw on the net, it seems that it ends up consuming a lot of energy, making the electrical part more expensive. I don't want to spend so much just because of induction. I don't know what other electrical equipment I would still need for everything to work, still using the car's alternator and an external 220v point when stopped at a camping site. In your opinion, which a good configuration sufficient to have a quick meal, with induction and stay out of the network for a day or two? Well, the result of the spreadsheet was: 220V equipment notebook - 65w - 1 hour of use - 5.4 Ah induction cooker - 1800w - 0,4 hour of use - 60 Ah 12V equipment USB - 50w - 1 hour of use - 4.2 Ah refrigerator - 45w - 8 hours of use - 30 Ah lights - 15w - 3 hours of use - 1.3 Ah water pump - 42 w - 0.5 hours of use - 1.8 Ah exhaust fan wc - 40 w - 1 hour of use - 3.3 Ah I will be very grateful if you can help me by presenting an wiring electrical diagram with the necessary equipment. I appreciate if you answer. my address is: joaolp55 @ gmail com Thanks
I am just about to put together a similar setup. I was wondering whether there was any particular reason that you haven't used the load output from the Victron charge controller instead of taking the load for all the accessories (usb outlets etc..) direct from the battery?
In most charge controllers, the load output is more of a gimmick, especially ones with a USB style load output. On the Victron, the load output is actually decent and the Victron software would manage the output to prevent discharge of the battery. The main limiting feature on the Victron "load" outputs is the cable size. You're still limited to the load allowed by 10ga cable. Anything that requires larger wire will require it to be wired directly to the battery, which is still the best option as long as you keep an eye on your battery voltages or use a Victron Battery Connect to isolate the loads from discharging the battery too low.
I will also add that using the load outputs is redundant. The charge controller will already be wired to the battery for charging purposes and whatever the battery is powering will also have outputs. Using the load output from the charge controller is simply adding a second possible output in the system. AS I said before, if this is your goal, the Victron is the right unit as its outputs are rated the same as the unit (15 amps) and it has software to manage the loads.
That model of Victron already has a fused output to the battery. You can see the yellow 20A fuse to the left of the power cables coming out of the controller.
@@tonygoinggonzo Are you sure that fuse is enough? From the Victron manual, the PDF version says this: "9.1.3. Blown fuse The 10A, 15A and 20A solar chargers are equipped with an accessible fuse. The most likely scenario when this fuse blows is when the battery accidentally has been connected in reverse polarity." Also, what about adding a fuse between the solar panels and the controller?
@@drayxoda Yes, you ideally want a fuse or circuit breaker between the solar panels and the controller, usually 40A or so depending on the size of wire. The 20A fuse I mentioned is the one built in to the controller, for the connection to the battery.
@@BruceschultzAU There is a separate bluetooth adaptor for Victron Controllers that don't come with the bluetooth inbuilt. It plugs into the white plug underneath the fuse that you can see here 0:58.
difference is that the XT60's require soldering and that's extra time wasted. The larger plugs have crimp connectors, whack'em with a hammer and you're done!
Actually a real slick setup, thanks for posting!
Great Idea. Pls more of them. Greetings from Germany
Thats a great idea,nice work.
Very nice work. Thanks for the video
Great video. Im looking at doing the exact same set-up. The watt meter is very handy. What size wire did you use from the "battery to the controller" and "controller to the anderson plug (to the solar)". Im opting for a 100/20 Victron MPPT with a lithium 120 AH battery and a 275w (approx) house solar panel. Thanks in advance.
Great video, what AWG do you use for the wires which run from controller to battery?
Excuse me mate
I was just wondering if you can/could plug an Anderson plug straight into your solar input that runs from a dual Battery isolator Without a dc-dc charger as I don't use/have a smart alternator as my Prado is a 99 model.
I just installed it to an Anderson plug in the back so I can plug in my portable battery box. My concern is that I run a lithium battery now and heard that the alternator will burn out trying to charge lithium ? Is that the case even know it goes through isolator and battery has BMS .thanks in advance.
Cheers Bruce.
Hi, can you tell me if you can charge the battery through an input anderson with a normal charger with that Victron still connected
Enjoy your video can build me that unit I have a 200w mono panel would that 15 amp control work thanks
Great stuff me like
'
Good informative video, I made one similar around the same time frame, I used the 15a load output on the victron controller for driving the loads. That way I could monitor the loads on the victron ap, via bluetooth dongle. With the app I could set a custom low voltage disconnect for the loads to protect my battery. I also used the victron bluetooth temp sensor that integrates with the controller to prevent the victron from trying to charge the battery in cold weather. I liked the plug and play monitor with the anderson connectors, unfortunately I smoke mine when I wasn't paying attention to his maximum voltage and plug it into my 36 V folding sewer panel.
Great idea if you're always below 180 watts to use the Victron to power then it's all monitored and protects the battery. My lithium phosphate is rated to 100 watts continuous (although I would not go past 500 watts really) so that wouldn't be an option for me.
Love it :)
I prefer a bigger box to ensure it's water proof then in case you're using it outside you won't have issue with rain. In this case, you have a hole right in the top of the box, let alone the Victron just sitting there.
Just put a cover over it, done deal.
@@kdigiacomo Yes that is a good idea, then you can leave it outside the box still but get to it easily and still have it waterproof.
I have the same controller would thes suit my lifpo4 battery
Title: agm battery box and victron solar controller
Video: agm battery box and victron solar controller
Dislikers: No , we expected something else.
With the box, is there any additional ventilation you have added. I have a similar set up but tend to lift my lid when in use for air flow? Am I just being paranoid, my box is in a boot and tend to have windows cracked a bit allowing outside air in.
Any suggestions for ventilation?
Nice job.
Would have used a red anderson plug for the unregulated solar panel.
I do the same and was about to comment as such. All my PV circuits are Red, all Regulated (Battery) circuits are Grey. Less confusion.
Was just about to comment on red andersons for PV feeds when I saw these comments, makes life easy with no accidents from people unfamiliar with set up.
great
where exactly would you use this? You could not mount this on the outside of a RV because the charge controller is not waterproof. If you do not use a lithium battery and they are lead acid then you have to vent this battery or mount it outside.
How do I order one of this?
I'm thinking of using the 75/10 Victron to trickle charge, or is it maintain, an AGM starter battery on a boat. The panel is only 55W, but I might be able to add another 20W panel. A few questions:
1. Would the 75/10 be at its limit?
2. I think my alternator puts out 14.4V, and I've read AGM batteries take 14.6-14.8 to fully charge. If that's true can solar finish off the charging of an AGM starter battery?
3. The Victron solar controller has another 2 terminals on the unit, are they for loads, e.g. lights etc?
4. I have all the lights and stuff running off a leisure battery, the starter just does the engine. But if I can run lights off solar as well, then I would. I can't work out how I would wire it all up.
Hello, can this controller handle a 12V Renology 160W Solar Panel , 2 Renology 12V-100ah Bateries. I'm planning to Install it for a Wireless PTZ CCTV Setup with a 12V-500Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter. I will be using 123.5Watts tops (2 CCTV Cameras (75Watts) + 1 Wifi AP (8.5Watts + 2 (20Watts) IR-led Enumerator). Will this setup do the job? How many hours should I get from this setup? Thanks
A bit late buy yes you your setup will be fine. 200ah battery bank for your particular use will be fine.
@@ultraball69 thanks. I really appreciate you response and wish you best of luck.
@@TheJaimecasado no prob glad i could help.
I am in the design phase to transform a Sprinter 211 cdi, new (2021), L1H1, all a little tight !!!!, but perfect for use here in Europe and exploring small towns, easy to park ... etc
But now I got to the point of doing the electrical project, which I'm not used to doing, I'm a civil engineer, I understand 110 / 220v AC circuits.
I wish you could help me with that part.
I'm Brazilian, but I also live a lot here in Portugal, where I'm going to do the conversion.
Well, I started making a spreadsheet, with the equipment, the necessary power and time of daily use, I have no intention of filling the motorhome with things, not least because it is a Sprinter L1H1, and I would like to have a simple electrical installation, but I would not like have gas inside, so I would prefer a stove with only one induction zone.
To heat the water it would be a D6 truma, which is diesel.
But from the calculations I made and compared with others I saw on the net, it seems that it ends up consuming a lot of energy, making the electrical part more expensive.
I don't want to spend so much just because of induction.
I don't know what other electrical equipment I would still need for everything to work, still using the car's alternator and an external 220v point when stopped at a camping site.
In your opinion, which a good configuration sufficient to have a quick meal, with induction and stay out of the network for a day or two?
Well, the result of the spreadsheet was:
220V equipment
notebook - 65w - 1 hour of use - 5.4 Ah
induction cooker - 1800w - 0,4 hour of use - 60 Ah
12V equipment
USB - 50w - 1 hour of use - 4.2 Ah
refrigerator - 45w - 8 hours of use - 30 Ah
lights - 15w - 3 hours of use - 1.3 Ah
water pump - 42 w - 0.5 hours of use - 1.8 Ah
exhaust fan wc - 40 w - 1 hour of use - 3.3 Ah
I will be very grateful if you can help me by presenting an wiring electrical diagram with the necessary equipment.
I appreciate if you answer.
my address is: joaolp55 @ gmail com
Thanks
What dose it mean when the green light is blinking??
I think it means that you have 12v power but no solar input.
🤗🤗👍👍🤗🤗👌Gut
I am just about to put together a similar setup. I was wondering whether there was any particular reason that you haven't used the load output from the Victron charge controller instead of taking the load for all the accessories (usb outlets etc..) direct from the battery?
In most charge controllers, the load output is more of a gimmick, especially ones with a USB style load output. On the Victron, the load output is actually decent and the Victron software would manage the output to prevent discharge of the battery. The main limiting feature on the Victron "load" outputs is the cable size. You're still limited to the load allowed by 10ga cable. Anything that requires larger wire will require it to be wired directly to the battery, which is still the best option as long as you keep an eye on your battery voltages or use a Victron Battery Connect to isolate the loads from discharging the battery too low.
I will also add that using the load outputs is redundant. The charge controller will already be wired to the battery for charging purposes and whatever the battery is powering will also have outputs. Using the load output from the charge controller is simply adding a second possible output in the system. AS I said before, if this is your goal, the Victron is the right unit as its outputs are rated the same as the unit (15 amps) and it has software to manage the loads.
@@epfd217 Thanks for the reply. Good advice.
Hi , do you fuse the positive wire from Victron to battery?
That model of Victron already has a fused output to the battery. You can see the yellow 20A fuse to the left of the power cables coming out of the controller.
@@tonygoinggonzo Are you sure that fuse is enough? From the Victron manual, the PDF version says this:
"9.1.3. Blown fuse
The 10A, 15A and 20A solar chargers are equipped with an accessible fuse. The most likely scenario when this fuse blows is
when the battery accidentally has been connected in reverse polarity."
Also, what about adding a fuse between the solar panels and the controller?
@@drayxoda Yes, you ideally want a fuse or circuit breaker between the solar panels and the controller, usually 40A or so depending on the size of wire. The 20A fuse I mentioned is the one built in to the controller, for the connection to the battery.
Got to watch out when you buy those though there's non Bluetooth one and then the adapter is another $50
What adaptor ?
@@BruceschultzAU There is a separate bluetooth adaptor for Victron Controllers that don't come with the bluetooth inbuilt. It plugs into the white plug underneath the fuse that you can see here 0:58.
Don’t really need those big connectors do you? XT60 is perfectly fine. Smaller and much cleaner look. The ones you are using are for fork lifts etc.
difference is that the XT60's require soldering and that's extra time wasted. The larger plugs have crimp connectors, whack'em with a hammer and you're done!
Just need to replace the battery to lithium
hi i have the same victron but when i connect it to my leisure battery it bliws the victron fuse .any ideas
Did you connect it backwards or accidentally tried to connect your battery to where the solar panels are supposed to go?
The built in fuse is reverse polarity protection. Sounds like the battery was connected backwards