This may be better than the reaction rod for barrel nut work. After having luck with the reaction rod for a while which I thought at the time was the best tool for the job until I ended up shearing a barrel index pin and didn’t realize that in fact the reaction rod gives absolutely zero support to the receiver so it leaves all the torque going directly to the barrel index pin and when that gives way your receiver will spin around with the barrel nut and the reaction rod is basically a paper weight at that point. I always thought the Bev block was inferior but after all it may be better as it offers some support to the receiver & sometimes you just need that little extra support to keep the receiver in place. I’ve never tried it however but the concept of the Bev block does make sense. If so had to choose between it and the reaction rod, Id hands down choose the Bev block However now for barrel nut work all I use is my Midwest Industries tool. It is the ultimate for barrel nut work & muzzle device work.. It also keeps the receiver solid and stable so working on things like changing out or removing bolt assist a cinch, something I wouldnt attempt to do with my reaction rod just because there’s a chance the receiver/barrel works its way out a bit and a small chance it slides right off... and without the barrel connected, obviously the reaction rod is too loose of tolerance & no means to hold the upper receiver in place .... the MI tool Like the reaction rod and Bev block it also utilizes the barrel extension lugs but it is a lot more snug and precise of a fit and there’s a section on the top that slides into the charging handle void as well so it solidly supports the receiver as well and keeps the receiver in place so the torque doesn’t transfer to the barrel index pin. The combination of the full support of the receiver as well as the barrel extension lugs gives the ultimate stability to the entire receiver/ barrel assembly allowing safe removal of even the most stubborn of barrel nuts & even without the barrel attached can hold the receiver very solidly in place. Midwest Industries absolutely nailed it. With that said Magpul was onto something with the Bev block as well, again I never tried it but it does appear it lacks stability and has a lot of play , while it does offer receiver support, it doesn’t spread out the support as much as I’d like but it is one step in the right direction over the reaction rod. I’m a huge Geissele fan and while the reaction rod seemed like a god send at the time, for me it got exposed as far as barrel removal work. To the point where even those clamshell Vice blocks are a better alternative for that purpose. Basically you’re gambling whenever applying a lot of torque trying to break free a barrel nut with the reaction rod.
looks better for the barrel index pin slot than a normal reaction rod since you have the extra rigidity from the bolt carrier among other things. also dual purpose, would go with this over a reaction rod.
I own a Bevblock. It works well to prevent twisting of the upper receiver when you really need to whale on a nut. I still prefer the rod - The kley-zion barrel spline socket rod; the reaction rod alternative, half the price and just as good. I would patronize Geissele when I can though - they really deserve it.
After watching this review, seems like the Botach rod is the way to go for all types of uppers (like F1) and barrels. Then, have a cheap polymer vice block to work on lowers. Informative, thank you.
Great review. I bought one about 2 years ago. If you work on left-handed uppers, such as a Stag Arms LH upper, the Brownell's "clamshell" style does NOT fit correctly. The BEV Block works GREAT for LH uppers. I, too, noticed the sloppiness of the lower-side of the BEV Block, but it still works.
Midwest reaction rod locks into the barrel extension, while stabilizing the upper receiver through the channel for the charging handle and gas tube, and is made of steel. Seems to work better than every other product out there.
...the 'Brownells' clamshell was originally the product of Peace River Classics from Central Florida...I have an original with Peace River molded into the clamshell...when Peace River Classics went T U in the late 90s/early 2000s Brownells bvought their non firearm assets (I own a Peace River Classics Glenwood AR - one of a limited 1 of 100 issue - it was intended as a 'kinder, gentler alternative to the 'eeevil black ARs' in advance of the '94 AWB...a long story they failed to deliver on the orders and as I said, went T U - the rifles are now collector items)
I bought one of these a while back and after using it and comparing other options, I will say it is a flawed design. The lugs have a very sloppy fit into the barrel extension so when torquing a barrel nut, the receiver can rotate enough to put pressure on the underside where it mates to the lower receiver. The best barreling tool I've found is the Midwest Industries MI-URR. It indexes the receiver and barrel so there is no way to damage the index pin slot in the upper. It's worth the extra cost to get real tools, this is a gimmick that's actually worse than a $10 receiver clamp block
@@glockparaastra Because of how much play there is in the upper when attached to the BEV, it's a pain in the ass to use if for changing a muzzle device. Really easy to slip off if the barrel moves. Best tool would be a barrel vise block, so you can support the end of the barrel when torqueing. Second best would be the MI-URRR. Use the BEV if you want to have a bad time. 😅
@@montanaplease Check out the Wheeler Delta Receiver Action Rod. It's like the Midwest, but made of aluminum. Should be fine for hobbyist use. There's also the Botach Action Rod.
Guessing to use the bolt carrier you had to remove the bolt. Just guessing but could you put the bcg in backwards for the same effect and then not have to disassemble your bcg? Should interface with the oring I’m guessing.
Nice review. Didn't notice if you felt this is sufficient enough to hold an upper for installing a barrel or not. Can you please give us your thoughts?
The upper wobble will make it hard to get an "acurate" torque measurement , you need it to be as stable as you can get it otherwise you might as well be guessing , the lower block reversal is nothing new
I have the tapco block and it cost little over $10. I love magpul but the price of these is ridiculous. And for the magpul one to wobble that is just unacceptable. I’ll stick with my tapco one.
Wouldn't the 65 Grendel use the same head as a 556? And basically use the same head for any ar15 upper? The black itself would be to small for a 308 in general looking at mine there is a big difference I would think that magpul would come out with a 308 bev block that would fit better
Can the bev block be used to help keep the upper receiver secured whilst installing a barrel? Or does the barrel have to be installed first like in the video for the bev block to be effective whilst doing work on the upper ?
Does this put any dangerous pressure on your upper or BCG when torquing down a barrel nut or muzzle device? My understanding is that you always want to keep torque pressure on your steel barrel, which is why reaction rods are so widely used by serious gunsmiths. A reaction rod doesn’t direct any pressure whatsoever into your upper. I feel like this bev block would spread torque pressure to both the upper (ouch) and the BCG (big ouch). But maybe that’s why it works? Diffuses all that pressure by redirecting it to so many different parts (barrel, upper, and BCG).
Rick Bell It sounds like you can. I have read plenty of people using it for the 7.62x39, which the the 6.5 Grendel's exterior dimensions are the same (the difference between 7.62x39 and Grendel would not be relevant to the BEV Blocks interface with the barrel extension). I am planning on using one on my Beowulf build (which is the same exact bolt as the Grendel)
This may be better than the reaction rod for barrel nut work. After having luck with the reaction rod for a while which I thought at the time was the best tool for the job until I ended up shearing a barrel index pin and didn’t realize that in fact the reaction rod gives absolutely zero support to the receiver so it leaves all the torque going directly to the barrel index pin and when that gives way your receiver will spin around with the barrel nut and the reaction rod is basically a paper weight at that point. I always thought the Bev block was inferior but after all it may be better as it offers some support to the receiver & sometimes you just need that little extra support to keep the receiver in place. I’ve never tried it however but the concept of the Bev block does make sense. If so had to choose between it and the reaction rod, Id hands down choose the Bev block However now for barrel nut work all I use is my Midwest Industries tool. It is the ultimate for barrel nut work & muzzle device work.. It also keeps the receiver solid and stable so working on things like changing out or removing bolt assist a cinch, something I wouldnt attempt to do with my reaction rod just because there’s a chance the receiver/barrel works its way out a bit and a small chance it slides right off... and without the barrel connected, obviously the reaction rod is too loose of tolerance & no means to hold the upper receiver in place .... the MI tool Like the reaction rod and Bev block it also utilizes the barrel extension lugs but it is a lot more snug and precise of a fit and there’s a section on the top that slides into the charging handle void as well so it solidly supports the receiver as well and keeps the receiver in place so the torque doesn’t transfer to the barrel index pin. The combination of the full support of the receiver as well as the barrel extension lugs gives the ultimate stability to the entire receiver/ barrel assembly allowing safe removal of even the most stubborn of barrel nuts & even without the barrel attached can hold the receiver very solidly in place. Midwest Industries absolutely nailed it. With that said Magpul was onto something with the Bev block as well, again I never tried it but it does appear it lacks stability and has a lot of play , while it does offer receiver support, it doesn’t spread out the support as much as I’d like but it is one step in the right direction over the reaction rod. I’m a huge Geissele fan and while the reaction rod seemed like a god send at the time, for me it got exposed as far as barrel removal work. To the point where even those clamshell Vice blocks are a better alternative for that purpose. Basically you’re gambling whenever applying a lot of torque trying to break free a barrel nut with the reaction rod.
Excellent video, answered all my questions about the BEV.
And BAM! Bought this yesterday for my first build. Sounds like I made a good decision. Great vid, off to go check out more.
+David Bock thanks for watching
How did it go do you still recommend this tool?
I get most of my gunsmithing specific tools from Real Avid and have been pretty happy with them.
looks better for the barrel index pin slot than a normal reaction rod since you have the extra rigidity from the bolt carrier among other things.
also dual purpose, would go with this over a reaction rod.
I own a Bevblock. It works well to prevent twisting of the upper receiver when you really need to whale on a nut. I still prefer the rod - The kley-zion barrel spline socket rod; the reaction rod alternative, half the price and just as good. I would patronize Geissele when I can though - they really deserve it.
After watching this review, seems like the Botach rod is the way to go for all types of uppers (like F1) and barrels. Then, have a cheap polymer vice block to work on lowers. Informative, thank you.
Great review. I bought one about 2 years ago. If you work on left-handed uppers, such as a Stag Arms LH upper, the Brownell's "clamshell" style does NOT fit correctly. The BEV Block works GREAT for LH uppers. I, too, noticed the sloppiness of the lower-side of the BEV Block, but it still works.
Just baught and used one today. Money well spent and was impressed with it.
It was strong enough of the barrel nut? It looks pretty weak.
Just used my bev block and it works like a charm.
Nice to hear
Nice tool and great video. if the tool is polymer I would recommend you use vice grips mate, your vice will chew it up
Midwest reaction rod locks into the barrel extension, while stabilizing the upper receiver through the channel for the charging handle and gas tube, and is made of steel. Seems to work better than every other product out there.
Too bad zero in stock ANYWHERE
...the 'Brownells' clamshell was originally the product of Peace River Classics from Central Florida...I have an original with Peace River molded into the clamshell...when Peace River Classics went T U in the late 90s/early 2000s Brownells bvought their non firearm assets (I own a Peace River Classics Glenwood AR - one of a limited 1 of 100 issue - it was intended as a 'kinder, gentler alternative to the 'eeevil black ARs' in advance of the '94 AWB...a long story they failed to deliver on the orders and as I said, went T U - the rifles are now collector items)
I bought one of these a while back and after using it and comparing other options, I will say it is a flawed design. The lugs have a very sloppy fit into the barrel extension so when torquing a barrel nut, the receiver can rotate enough to put pressure on the underside where it mates to the lower receiver. The best barreling tool I've found is the Midwest Industries MI-URR. It indexes the receiver and barrel so there is no way to damage the index pin slot in the upper. It's worth the extra cost to get real tools, this is a gimmick that's actually worse than a $10 receiver clamp block
Midwest makes some nice stuff. I may know a thing or two about their products ;-)
Is it good enough to change a muzzle brake? Not sure how much torque is used compared to barrel nut. Saves me having to go to a gunsmith.
@@glockparaastra Because of how much play there is in the upper when attached to the BEV, it's a pain in the ass to use if for changing a muzzle device. Really easy to slip off if the barrel moves. Best tool would be a barrel vise block, so you can support the end of the barrel when torqueing. Second best would be the MI-URRR. Use the BEV if you want to have a bad time. 😅
Midwest does not exist.
Non in stock doing a 30 min search.
The BEV probably next best thing
@@montanaplease Check out the Wheeler Delta Receiver Action Rod. It's like the Midwest, but made of aluminum. Should be fine for hobbyist use.
There's also the Botach Action Rod.
Guessing to use the bolt carrier you had to remove the bolt. Just guessing but could you put the bcg in backwards for the same effect and then not have to disassemble your bcg? Should interface with the oring I’m guessing.
Probably not very well. The opening in the rear of the carrier is bigger than the one the bolt goes in.
I must've lost the pins that came with it. Guess I'll have to use the clevis pin I use to install the pivot pin
Great device. Thanks for review.
Great demo
Nice review. Didn't notice if you felt this is sufficient enough to hold an upper for installing a barrel or not. Can you please give us your thoughts?
Thanks. Yup barrel installation no problem
+Learning Firearms Thanks!
I think, I want this!
Great review
The upper wobble will make it hard to get an "acurate" torque measurement , you need it to be as stable as you can get it otherwise you might as well be guessing , the lower block reversal is nothing new
The torque range for a barrel nut is like 20-30 ftlb. Aim for the middle and you'll be fine; the wobble won't affect your torque amount that much.
Excellent!!
How does it compare to the Brownell's 080-000-659WB
Action Block & Lower Vise Block Set which costs $59.99?
So you are saying this does not work on a 6.5 Grendel?
I have the tapco block and it cost little over $10. I love magpul but the price of these is ridiculous. And for the magpul one to wobble that is just unacceptable. I’ll stick with my tapco one.
With Magpul all you are paying for is the name.
Not the same thing.
Good video. Thank you 👍
Wouldn't the 65 Grendel use the same head as a 556? And basically use the same head for any ar15 upper? The black itself would be to small for a 308 in general looking at mine there is a big difference I would think that magpul would come out with a 308 bev block that would fit better
They should have it drilled out and could use it for a bore guide
Thank you for this! :D
And if I don't have a barrel installed on the upper yet?
What work would you be doing with an upper where you wouldn't have the barrel installed?
will this work on a bren 2?
I want to replace the flash hider on my AR15 with a different brake. Besides the BEV Block, Vise and wrench, do I need anything else?
Other than a new crush washer, that's all the tools you'll need.
will it be useable for 9mm barrels?
So using the bolt carrier isn't neccessary, it just adds rigidity, correct?
Correct
Can the bev block be used to help keep the upper receiver secured whilst installing a barrel? Or does the barrel have to be installed first like in the video for the bev block to be effective whilst doing work on the upper ?
+InterceptingFist you can use it to install a barrel but you’ll need the extension to lock in to
Just remember to twerk to the exact specifications.
I was literally reading your comment at the same time he said it!
I don't want to see him twerking. Torque is the word you're looking for.
Will it work on a .50 Beuwolf?
Nah, get the MI-URR - MI Upper Receiver Rod 👍🏼
Never heard of it :-)
Learning Firearms now you have
You haven’t watch Midwest video on their Upper receiver rod then. Might see a familiar face :-)
So this won't work on a 6.5 grendel
Yes this will work for a 6.5 Grendel.
Don’t like having to put bolt into gun. It could cause head space issues if torqued to hard
No not really. It index’s on the barrel extension and won’t change headspace. Numerous manufactures use this type of system.
Will it work with a 300blk barrle?
Yes, but you should learn more before you work on a firearm.
can this be used for 308 lower?
+david montenegro only ar15s. There are other products on the market for ar10/308
What they don't tell you, is that it doesn't work with all barrels - namely BCM barrels.
+Seth Arnold works fine on the ones we've had in the shop
Learning Firearms
Doesn't work on my enhanced LW fluted barrel. Called Magpul and they said that they were aware that it didn't fit.
Seth Arnold I noticed that, I was thinking maybe something was off when it didn't fit my 16 bcm mid but it works with my other rifles. wonder why
Dam I'm glad I read this comment, I bought a bcm barrel, and was thinking about buying this.
Fstfoxxx they updated it, and now it is fixed. They sent me a new one no charge. You should be G2G
Does this put any dangerous pressure on your upper or BCG when torquing down a barrel nut or muzzle device?
My understanding is that you always want to keep torque pressure on your steel barrel, which is why reaction rods are so widely used by serious gunsmiths. A reaction rod doesn’t direct any pressure whatsoever into your upper.
I feel like this bev block would spread torque pressure to both the upper (ouch) and the BCG (big ouch). But maybe that’s why it works? Diffuses all that pressure by redirecting it to so many different parts (barrel, upper, and BCG).
I have a question...I am doing my first upper build,a 6.5 Grendel and was wondering if this bev block will work on it. Any help is appreciated
Rick Bell It sounds like you can. I have read plenty of people using it for the 7.62x39, which the the 6.5 Grendel's exterior dimensions are the same (the difference between 7.62x39 and Grendel would not be relevant to the BEV Blocks interface with the barrel extension). I am planning on using one on my Beowulf build (which is the same exact bolt as the Grendel)
Rick Bell that was my question. I thought all AR 15 barrel extensions were the same lug pattern. No matter what caliber.
Am I wrong?
Dude, does this work with the SCAR weapon system?
5.56 version of course.
25 seconds of intro footage was ridiculous. but good review
This video is 8 years old, back then Long intros were cool lol. But yeah we don’t do those anymore
Bro you need to seriously consider a diet and workout plan
OMG really???
Bro you need to STFU and not tell others what to do. Mind your own business.
manners & respect is what you need, yer an ass.