Thank you! I think I started with the scale because they're cheap! But I pretty much only do that scale now because it's easy for me to picture real life sizes since a man would be about 1 inch tall in that scale.
The slightly rough surface finish on the main parts you refer to was termed 'spark erosion finish' when the kit was new. It was done that way to assist paint adhesion as some hobby acrylic paints then tended to bead up on smooth plastic surfaces. Some Revell kits of Japanese planes were also done in that way, including 'busy' rivet patterns. Nichimo's kit builds up very nice. Aftermarket decals for this kit are numerous. Resin wheels and photo etch sets are available also.
One trick I have used in the past with single surface vacuform kits and also for rib tapes on ailerons, elevators and rudders is to cut solid black decal sheets into narrow strips and apply them before painting or over a base coat to achieve the translucent effect. Though most recently I used the same technique as you. I built the Roden F. I version of the Triplane some years ago and it fitted where it touched and the I struts were all separate, trying to line them up was a nightmare, not helped by losing one to the carpet monster. I have the Revell Dr. I to build at some point, which looks like a nice kit. Alex Imrie wrote some years ago that Dr. I pilots described their aircraft as green, but the modern trend tends to be to paint Dr. I aircraft models a dusty olive drab, like they are B-17s that have flown 25 missions over Germany, so I like your grass green look 😊. Another very enjoyable video!
That decal trick isn't a bad idea! Certainly it's better than spending 7 and a half hours and 90 yards of masking tape! It's funny you mention the discrepancy between pilot descriptions and modern trends. I feel like the same applies to the RFC. All of the accounts that I've read (at least the ones I can remember) describe British planes being painted a "chocolate" color, but again I feel like I always only see olive drab. Maybe chocolate was green back then with rationing and all? Anyway, you hit the nail on the head when it comes to nightmarish Roden kits! I have a love hate relationship with that company, and I'm always getting sucked back in to build another of their kits when I know the molds are awful, the fit invariably bad, and the construction planned by a sadist! I honestly don't know why I have fun every time I build one, but I do. . . and they mostly turn out nice. Oh well. . .
@@professorbellbuildsRoden kits, I can't tell you how often I take one out, fondle it lovingly, have images in my head of a beautifully completed model and then put it away till another day. Setting P.C.12 to one side my current approach to P.C.10 is that its base is definitely a BROWN colour (discussions of how it first may have looked in 1916 aside) that in certain light conditions can exhibit a subtle "green shift". This is something I have noticed on the aircraft in the RAF Museum at Hendon and the Shuttleworth Collection at Old Warden. To replicate this in model form I apply, for want of a better phrase, a khaki brown (but more brown than khaki) base to which I then add green, before lightly over-spraying the brown. If I am lucky this results in the "chameleon" like effect that I am looking for depending on background and light conditions i.e. direct sunlight, cloud cover, shade or artificial light. My thinking in respect of this is heavily influenced by an article in the '14-'18 Journal of The Australian Society of World War One Aero Historians, Vol 1 - 2019 by Colin A. Owers and references letters written by the late Jack Bruce on the topic. One of these to R. Rimell on 30/12/85 "The colour used on (RAF) Museum aircraft was accurately matched against colour samples provided from Canada, where what appears to be the only copy of the appropriate British Standard with surviving colour examples exists." Unfortunately no mention is made of spectrographic analysis, so caveats apply as to conditions of the original colour examples etc. The article is well worth reading if you can get hold of it. Finally, from an American perspective the Monogram book on US Army Air Service & Air Corps Aircraft Color Guide Vol 1 1908-1941 by Robert D. Archer published 1995 has a colour chip for KHAKI (P.C.10) and DARK GRAY (4. x .2) as well as the French colours used on SPAD aircraft. The P.C.10 chip under artificial light appears to be a dark green, but under natural light is more brown. The grey is the colour used on plywood and metal components and is quite dark, with a hint of blue to it, X-2 battleship grey or gray in US use. Apparently the Signal Corps having selected the D.H.4 for domestic production based its finishes on the original British requirements. Thus there is some correlation between P.C.10 and the olive brown color (colour) often known as "khaki" used by the Air Service during and after WW1 which becomes Olive Drab, No. 22 in due course, though not to be confused with the WW2 era Dark Olive Drab, No. 41 - which I think may have brought us full circle 🙂.
@@professorbellbuilds that makes two of us, as I have that kit to build as well. I probably should have said that I add green paint to the brown paint (making a rather yucky colour) before over-spraying the previously applied brown colour, just to clarify.
I'm not sure if this would work for your purpose, but instead of masking for all those lines you should try painting them on with a paint pen or even a Sharpie marker. The felt tip can be cut to size. A metal pocket straight edge, or even a piece of photo etch sprue, can be used as a guide. Good luck.
@@professorbellbuilds Hi again, I'm glad you liked that suggestion but there might be problems. Many paints are not compatible with others, so you should run tests using scrap kits or plastic sheets and try any combination of paints that you think of. Also keep detailed notes that you can refer to in the future. I'm having second thoughts about the Sharpie marker because it is ink and not paint, so it might not adhere to bare plastic very well. A thin primer coat of flat clear paint might be in order. Lastly I don't know what tools you have but I've seen good air brushes that are able to lay down a line that is about 1 1/2 mm wide with the advantage of soft feathering on the edges and strong black in the center. This will better simulate shadowing. I hope you find this useful because I really like to see those tiny masterpieces.
I’m looking at getting into this hobby but was on the fence watching the same ‘insert manufacturer here’ and ‘insert another here’ video that to be frank are just boring. Your style is unique, you throw in some nice info, hints and tips and I watched every second of this video as I wasn’t bored. Going to look at doing eduard kits now and hope you keep up the good work ❤
Thank you! It's a fun hobby. My favorite part is getting interested in the subject I'm building and doing research and learning more about it, the period it came from and the folks who designed and used it. If you're a nerd like me, you'll have lots of fun! Can I make a recommendation for your first kit?
@@professorbellbuilds please do. I ultimately want to make Russian WW2 aircraft as I love them, especially the IL2. What should I start with to build up the skills?
@@dc1316 If that's the case, I'd recommend the Airfix P-40b. I always do 1/72 scale, and I can personally recommend that kit. It's well detailed out of the box, the fit and finish are great, and it will give a good foundation. Also, if you're mostly interested in Russian WWII aircraft, the P-40b was used by the Soviets because of the lend lease program (of course the Airfix kit doesn't provide the paint scheme or decals for a soviet version. . . alas). Anyway for your first kits, I'd stick with Airfix and Tamiya. They're both reputable manufacturers, and you shouldn't run into too much frustrating stuff like fit issues, etc. Let me know how it turns out!
That is a fantastic little model tbh m8.I'd like to put mine alongside it!🔎I'm not sure whose would be better though😉. Mine has realistic looking streaking camo but yours has the Eduard photoetch parts. (Mine was an Airfix kit and I had to scratch build my 'realistic extras'). Mmm🤔
that DR1 streaking isn't easy .... you did a nice job ... i am working on the old Revell 1/28 DR1 from the 1960s -- Werner Voss' airplane ... light blue with the green streaking.
You'll have to let me know how it turns out. I always liked Voss's Dr1 with the face cowling. If you've got the patience for it, I think the oil paint method is the best, though I don't know how well it will do in such a large scale. . . Like I said, you'll have to let me know how it comes out. I've never been brave enough for the bigger scales!
I very much enjoyed your video. I like your your style of keeping it real, telling what was difficult, what went wrong etc. 1/72 biplanes are my absolute favorites. It's much more relaxing to watch a video of someone else building a kit a than to build it yourself. There's less cursing, moaning and sighing. When I built this kit, I left out the PE parts for the airframe, managing to them is only half victory, if you later knock them off. The profipack is sadly not available now, but I've got a Smer re-boxing, so I might torture myself with the left over PE parts from the profipack. Do you by the way have Eduards 1/72 Fokker D. VII, it's said to be an excellent model. I'm now building an Airfix Gloster Gladiator, very nice kit with solid engineering for the upper wing, and soon an Airfix B.E.2c. Do you have those in your stash?
Thanks for the kids words! Maybe I'm a masochist, but the torture with little parts is one of the parts I like best! It's funny you should mention those kits. I've been coveting the D. VII and Gladiator from airfix for a while. As for the B.E.2c, I've already built one (I actually won a prize for it at my local model con), and I had such a good time with it that I bought another one. I've got big plans for that kit. . .
@@professorbellbuilds I don't mind PE parts most of the time, or even enjoy working with them, but but the tiniest ones are so tricky, there's so little contact with the plastic. Another thing that is PITA, is when they interfere with the fit of the plastic. The Eduard 73491 is a good example of that, there are many parts that are unusable in the first place, and others I had to remove later. The PE bulkhead is much too small, the seat will cover it almost entirely, this is evident even on Eduard's website in the photographs. I ended up thinning the kit bulkhead and seat. So if you are planning to get the fret, be warned. There's another fret available from SBS, but I haven't used it. The Yahu instrument panels - if you are familiar with those - are also a bit too big, not designed for Airfix, and fitting them require removin some plastic. Congrats on the prize, I bet it looked very nice. I also bought another B.E.2c, one nice thing about these small 1/72 kits is that they require so little space, as a box and built. If I were you, I would get the Fokker D. VII quite soon, as Eduard have raised their prices. I don't know if local retailers there in the States have already applied that increase to those kits already in stock, but at least new ones they order from Eduard will cost more. I've got several of them, there are so many tempting schemes.
@@professorbellbuilds Not too many Eduard 1/72 Fokker D. VII build videos on TH-cam, or Airfix Gladiator videos that actually show the rigging process. Would be nice to see your method.
I just made the same mistake putting the horizontal stabiliser on upside down. I wish I'd watched your video first. Ah well there are two kits in my box
Hah! you meant to say no gophers YET! I hadn't even thought about it. Of course in Nevada we have all sorts of burrowing creatures beyond the gopher. I bet you haven't got ground hogs, or prairie dogs either. I even used to walk amongst the famous yellow bellied marmots! Here's something else weird though, our rabbits don't dig warrens in the US. By the way, aqualungs? How high is your water table?
Nice build out. For history of aviation I do like to build some WW1 planes, no matter what scale they are a real challenge This three wing guy seemed to be the most challenging of all. I have to confess, I cheated and did the Red Barron scheme, all red :-)
Oh, C'mon! That's not cheating. Richthofen's an icon. I chose to do an albatros DIII for my Red Barron model though. I wanted to represent the plane he was most successful in.
Great build. This kit is for the brave! I don't think I could handle all those tiny PE parts but the result is very good. If I may, I have a suggestion: Instead of showing an entire sequence at extremely high speed, show parts of it (say, start, middle, finish) with moderate speed and use transitions (e.g. fade-in - fade-out) in between.. you'll have approximately the same video length but the result won't be as hectic and hard to follow... Show the important steps of the build. Cleaning the flash for example, albeit an important task, is not as important to show. Cheers!
Thanks for the kind words, and the tip! I'm new to video editing, and limited by "the free version" editing software, but as they say, practice makes perfect.
@@professorbellbuilds Personally, I liked the higher speed, but, yeah, slowing down on certain complicated sections is a good idea. I particularly liked the PE sections.
I am a beginner, and I am currently in the process of building the same model, and so far, I am struggling to hold everything still and not to break them. Unfortunately, though, I have already broken the seat and the structure underneath it, and just those have already riled me up that I just couldn't continue without cursing at myself. So, my question for you is how can I not break the entire structure without cursing at myself?
Well. . . prayer helps. For one, you should be aware that this is a pretty advanced kit, so if you remind yourself of that, it will probably make the screw-ups easier to take. Is it the photo etch that's giving you the trouble?
Dont beat yourself up about the read stabilizer upside down. Not sure what the instructions look like but I have seen people make that mistake 4 or 5 times lol
Thank you! It was actually the first time I had tried it. I think I might try a different way in the future though. All that masking was a real pain in the neck!
@@professorbellbuilds Okay, so maybe I enjoy sarcasm a tad too much, but the masking wasn't your prob. You seem to have time enough to mask, film it and edit your vid for YT. So time doesn't seem to be your prob. It makes no sense to preshade, when you're going to cover it under 1 thick spray of paint. Now that's a waste of time ! And paint. Even with an airbrush you can practise subtlety, like say, a thin transparent coat for starters over your preshade, let it settle and check out the effect. Preshade doesn't have to be black either. A darker hue of the overall colour to start with can do wonders.
@@professorbellbuilds Please, professor, honestly: do you see the frame shining through the top layer of paint ? It could be the camera, the light, but I'm guessing there's no frame shining through. And that's not because of your preshade. It's because you hid the preshade cumpletely. What comes after the preshade is just as important. Otherwise it's simply a zero operation. You have not respected your preshade. That's how you lost time. A fine transparent spray would have suggested the light shining through the linen. And for that matter: it would shine through if it were clear doped fabric, fair enough. But would it shine through after the pilots had their fancy ways with it ?
@@trikkke11 I just checked, and honestly: I do see it shining through the top layer, or rather dimly lurking beneath the surface. It's more pronounced on the underside of the wings, and most pronounced on the underside of the top wing as I had intended. I figured that would let the most light through with the white upper surface. The camera may be hiding the detail since I'm just using my cell phone, but it's definitely there. It could also be that I was going for an effect more subtle than you prefer. The problem with going too light on the paint is you run the risk of letting the plastic shine through in addition to the pre-shading. I think to get the more pronounced effect that you're talking about I would have wanted to first paint ,or prime with white, then add the shading, then give the light mist as you recommend. Though I'm not sure that would technically be preshading. . . what would you call it? Intrashading? Perioshading? That actually might be a good idea, especially if I were to use a dark brown for the preshading as you suggest. I've got a plan for a RAFC plane that I might just give it a go on, especially since one could expect the Egyptian sun to shine through the wings a whole lot more. Anyway, hopefully I can also do a camera upgrade and those ultra fine details will show up better. A buddy of mine offered to let me borrow his camera which is supposed to be of far better quality than my phone.
Professor Bell you made a hell of a job ! But your camera ( in the oil painting process ) is a disaster…. Would you please repeat it, at least in a piece of plastic ? 🙏 It’s a favor we appreciate 😊
I could give it a go, but the problem is that right now my camera is my phone. . . I'm not sure the results would be much better. What specifically did you want to see and I'll see if I can get something put together for you. Was it just the oil wash?
Thanks for the critique. It's partially due to my being new to filming myself, partially to my being even newer to video editing, and also I'm using the free version of the editing software. Hopefully as I become more competent and when I can one day afford the purchased version I'll improve. If you don't mind can I ask what you mean specifically so I can work on it? Was it that I had too many close ups, or that they were jarring when they appeared, or that I was too close all the time?
Some of the Pilot's of this period where ordered to smear bear grease over their face and up their nose ! Not to use it could result in a Court Marshall.....as it was used to prevent catching a cold.....So any other oil that that got plasterd in wouldn't have made a hell of a lot of difference.....l think you will find it is what incourage a lot of moustache's.....So your runny noise didn't dribble into their mouth ! It's why some evidence of face madk's are known to have been worn !!
I've heard of the bear grease, but I thought it was to prevent frostbite. I do know that the pilots also encouraged the fashion of hair slicked straight back! I've also seen a video of Hermann Goring getting out of his cockpit, and he removes a face mask. It was a fascinating time for flight!
Am pleased to see that you do the tyres the right colour,SO many modellers get that wrong😃
You picked a great kit with spectacular results. Kudos. 👍👍👍
Thank you! It was a really fun build.
I REALLY enjoyed your build, Professor! What a beautiful result. I like the 'miniature' aspect of 1/72, and WW1 aircraft lend themselves to this.
Thank you! I think I started with the scale because they're cheap! But I pretty much only do that scale now because it's easy for me to picture real life sizes since a man would be about 1 inch tall in that scale.
Great video. I wish you much success with your channel.
Thank you! If we're lucky it can start financing my addiction to the hobby!
Great work there
Thank you! I really like the Eduard profi packs!
That is a lovely result mate. Well done. Subbed.👍👍😉
Thank you!
The slightly rough surface finish on the main parts you refer to was termed 'spark erosion finish' when the kit was new. It was done that way to assist paint adhesion as some hobby acrylic paints then tended to bead up on smooth plastic surfaces. Some Revell kits of Japanese planes were also done in that way, including 'busy' rivet patterns. Nichimo's kit builds up very nice. Aftermarket decals for this kit are numerous. Resin wheels and photo etch sets are available also.
Gorgeous
Thanks! Me or the plane?
@@professorbellbuilds Both my good sir.
@@williamroberts1819 Aw Thanks!
One trick I have used in the past with single surface vacuform kits and also for rib tapes on ailerons, elevators and rudders is to cut solid black decal sheets into narrow strips and apply them before painting or over a base coat to achieve the translucent effect. Though most recently I used the same technique as you. I built the Roden F. I version of the Triplane some years ago and it fitted where it touched and the I struts were all separate, trying to line them up was a nightmare, not helped by losing one to the carpet monster. I have the Revell Dr. I to build at some point, which looks like a nice kit. Alex Imrie wrote some years ago that Dr. I pilots described their aircraft as green, but the modern trend tends to be to paint Dr. I aircraft models a dusty olive drab, like they are B-17s that have flown 25 missions over Germany, so I like your grass green look 😊. Another very enjoyable video!
That decal trick isn't a bad idea! Certainly it's better than spending 7 and a half hours and 90 yards of masking tape! It's funny you mention the discrepancy between pilot descriptions and modern trends. I feel like the same applies to the RFC. All of the accounts that I've read (at least the ones I can remember) describe British planes being painted a "chocolate" color, but again I feel like I always only see olive drab. Maybe chocolate was green back then with rationing and all? Anyway, you hit the nail on the head when it comes to nightmarish Roden kits! I have a love hate relationship with that company, and I'm always getting sucked back in to build another of their kits when I know the molds are awful, the fit invariably bad, and the construction planned by a sadist! I honestly don't know why I have fun every time I build one, but I do. . . and they mostly turn out nice. Oh well. . .
@@professorbellbuildsRoden kits, I can't tell you how often I take one out, fondle it lovingly, have images in my head of a beautifully completed model and then put it away till another day. Setting P.C.12 to one side my current approach to P.C.10 is that its base is definitely a BROWN colour (discussions of how it first may have looked in 1916 aside) that in certain light conditions can exhibit a subtle "green shift". This is something I have noticed on the aircraft in the RAF Museum at Hendon and the Shuttleworth Collection at Old Warden. To replicate this in model form I apply, for want of a better phrase, a khaki brown (but more brown than khaki) base to which I then add green, before lightly over-spraying the brown. If I am lucky this results in the "chameleon" like effect that I am looking for depending on background and light conditions i.e. direct sunlight, cloud cover, shade or artificial light. My thinking in respect of this is heavily influenced by an article in the '14-'18 Journal of The Australian Society of World War One Aero Historians, Vol 1 - 2019 by Colin A. Owers and references letters written by the late Jack Bruce on the topic. One of these to R. Rimell on 30/12/85 "The colour used on (RAF) Museum aircraft was accurately matched against colour samples provided from Canada, where what appears to be the only copy of the appropriate British Standard with surviving colour examples exists." Unfortunately no mention is made of spectrographic analysis, so caveats apply as to conditions of the original colour examples etc. The article is well worth reading if you can get hold of it. Finally, from an American perspective the Monogram book on US Army Air Service & Air Corps Aircraft Color Guide Vol 1 1908-1941 by Robert D. Archer published 1995 has a colour chip for KHAKI (P.C.10) and DARK GRAY (4. x .2) as well as the French colours used on SPAD aircraft. The P.C.10 chip under artificial light appears to be a dark green, but under natural light is more brown. The grey is the colour used on plywood and metal components and is quite dark, with a hint of blue to it, X-2 battleship grey or gray in US use. Apparently the Signal Corps having selected the D.H.4 for domestic production based its finishes on the original British requirements. Thus there is some correlation between P.C.10 and the olive brown color (colour) often known as "khaki" used by the Air Service during and after WW1 which becomes Olive Drab, No. 22 in due course, though not to be confused with the WW2 era Dark Olive Drab, No. 41 - which I think may have brought us full circle 🙂.
@@marktuffield6519 Hmmm. . . well I see I need to do quite a bit more research before embarking on my Se5a (incidentally a Roden kit)!
@@professorbellbuilds that makes two of us, as I have that kit to build as well. I probably should have said that I add green paint to the brown paint (making a rather yucky colour) before over-spraying the previously applied brown colour, just to clarify.
I'm not sure if this would work for your purpose, but instead of masking for all those lines you should try painting them on with a paint pen or even a Sharpie marker. The felt tip can be cut to size. A metal pocket straight edge, or even a piece of photo etch sprue, can be used as a guide. Good luck.
Why didn't I think of that! That's brilliant, thank you! Of course now, I have to build another WWI biplane to give it a go. . .
@@professorbellbuilds Hi again, I'm glad you liked that suggestion but there might be problems. Many paints are not compatible with others, so you should run tests using scrap kits or plastic sheets and try any combination of paints that you think of. Also keep detailed notes that you can refer to in the future. I'm having second thoughts about the Sharpie marker because it is ink and not paint, so it might not adhere to bare plastic very well. A thin primer coat of flat clear paint might be in order. Lastly I don't know what tools you have but I've seen good air brushes that are able to lay down a line that is about 1 1/2 mm wide with the advantage of soft feathering on the edges and strong black in the center. This will better simulate shadowing. I hope you find this useful because I really like to see those tiny masterpieces.
@@Ron50MSure, it's certainly worth a test run.
I’m looking at getting into this hobby but was on the fence watching the same ‘insert manufacturer here’ and ‘insert another here’ video that to be frank are just boring.
Your style is unique, you throw in some nice info, hints and tips and I watched every second of this video as I wasn’t bored.
Going to look at doing eduard kits now and hope you keep up the good work ❤
Thank you! It's a fun hobby. My favorite part is getting interested in the subject I'm building and doing research and learning more about it, the period it came from and the folks who designed and used it. If you're a nerd like me, you'll have lots of fun! Can I make a recommendation for your first kit?
@@professorbellbuilds please do. I ultimately want to make Russian WW2 aircraft as I love them, especially the IL2.
What should I start with to build up the skills?
@@dc1316 If that's the case, I'd recommend the Airfix P-40b. I always do 1/72 scale, and I can personally recommend that kit. It's well detailed out of the box, the fit and finish are great, and it will give a good foundation. Also, if you're mostly interested in Russian WWII aircraft, the P-40b was used by the Soviets because of the lend lease program (of course the Airfix kit doesn't provide the paint scheme or decals for a soviet version. . . alas). Anyway for your first kits, I'd stick with Airfix and Tamiya. They're both reputable manufacturers, and you shouldn't run into too much frustrating stuff like fit issues, etc. Let me know how it turns out!
@@professorbellbuilds thanks for taking time to reply, will check them out 🫡
Thank you!!😊😊
My Pleasure!
That is a fantastic little model tbh m8.I'd like to put mine alongside it!🔎I'm not sure whose would be better though😉.
Mine has realistic looking streaking camo but yours has the Eduard photoetch parts.
(Mine was an Airfix kit and I had to scratch build my 'realistic extras').
Mmm🤔
that DR1 streaking isn't easy .... you did a nice job ... i am working on the old Revell 1/28 DR1 from the 1960s -- Werner Voss' airplane ... light blue with the green streaking.
You'll have to let me know how it turns out. I always liked Voss's Dr1 with the face cowling. If you've got the patience for it, I think the oil paint method is the best, though I don't know how well it will do in such a large scale. . . Like I said, you'll have to let me know how it comes out. I've never been brave enough for the bigger scales!
I very much enjoyed your video. I like your your style of keeping it real, telling what was difficult, what went wrong etc. 1/72 biplanes are my absolute favorites. It's much more relaxing to watch a video of someone else building a kit a than to build it yourself. There's less cursing, moaning and sighing. When I built this kit, I left out the PE parts for the airframe, managing to them is only half victory, if you later knock them off. The profipack is sadly not available now, but I've got a Smer re-boxing, so I might torture myself with the left over PE parts from the profipack. Do you by the way have Eduards 1/72 Fokker D. VII, it's said to be an excellent model. I'm now building an Airfix Gloster Gladiator, very nice kit with solid engineering for the upper wing, and soon an Airfix B.E.2c. Do you have those in your stash?
Thanks for the kids words! Maybe I'm a masochist, but the torture with little parts is one of the parts I like best! It's funny you should mention those kits. I've been coveting the D. VII and Gladiator from airfix for a while. As for the B.E.2c, I've already built one (I actually won a prize for it at my local model con), and I had such a good time with it that I bought another one. I've got big plans for that kit. . .
@@professorbellbuilds I don't mind PE parts most of the time, or even enjoy working with them, but but the tiniest ones are so tricky, there's so little contact with the plastic. Another thing that is PITA, is when they interfere with the fit of the plastic. The Eduard 73491 is a good example of that, there are many parts that are unusable in the first place, and others I had to remove later. The PE bulkhead is much too small, the seat will cover it almost entirely, this is evident even on Eduard's website in the photographs. I ended up thinning the kit bulkhead and seat. So if you are planning to get the fret, be warned. There's another fret available from SBS, but I haven't used it. The Yahu instrument panels - if you are familiar with those - are also a bit too big, not designed for Airfix, and fitting them require removin some plastic. Congrats on the prize, I bet it looked very nice. I also bought another B.E.2c, one nice thing about these small 1/72 kits is that they require so little space, as a box and built. If I were you, I would get the Fokker D. VII quite soon, as Eduard have raised their prices. I don't know if local retailers there in the States have already applied that increase to those kits already in stock, but at least new ones they order from Eduard will cost more. I've got several of them, there are so many tempting schemes.
@@thekinksfan5102 Thanks for the tip! That may justify another purchase soon. . .
@@professorbellbuilds Not too many Eduard 1/72 Fokker D. VII build videos on TH-cam, or Airfix Gladiator videos that actually show the rigging process. Would be nice to see your method.
@@thekinksfan5102 Duly noted 🤝
I just made the same mistake putting the horizontal stabiliser on upside down. I wish I'd watched your video first. Ah well there are two kits in my box
Lucky! That's ok, it's not a big deal to fill the holes. . .
22:19;no Gophers in France,Britain or Germany mate,Stateside only like Chipmunks and Skunks.We DO have Moles though!🤓
Where I live they use aqualungs!
Hah! you meant to say no gophers YET! I hadn't even thought about it. Of course in Nevada we have all sorts of burrowing creatures beyond the gopher. I bet you haven't got ground hogs, or prairie dogs either. I even used to walk amongst the famous yellow bellied marmots! Here's something else weird though, our rabbits don't dig warrens in the US. By the way, aqualungs? How high is your water table?
Nice build out. For history of aviation I do like to build some WW1 planes, no matter what scale they are a real challenge This three wing guy seemed to be the most challenging of all. I have to confess, I cheated and did the Red Barron scheme, all red :-)
Oh, C'mon! That's not cheating. Richthofen's an icon. I chose to do an albatros DIII for my Red Barron model though. I wanted to represent the plane he was most successful in.
Great build. This kit is for the brave! I don't think I could handle all those tiny PE parts but the result is very good. If I may, I have a suggestion: Instead of showing an entire sequence at extremely high speed, show parts of it (say, start, middle, finish) with moderate speed and use transitions (e.g. fade-in - fade-out) in between.. you'll have approximately the same video length but the result won't be as hectic and hard to follow... Show the important steps of the build. Cleaning the flash for example, albeit an important task, is not as important to show. Cheers!
Thanks for the kind words, and the tip! I'm new to video editing, and limited by "the free version" editing software, but as they say, practice makes perfect.
@@professorbellbuilds Personally, I liked the higher speed, but, yeah, slowing down on certain complicated sections is a good idea.
I particularly liked the PE sections.
@@supercededman Thank you, that's a good idea. I'll definitely incorporate that as I keep posting these builds!
Well done. Where did you get that Swiss Army knife?
it was a gift from my wife
I am a beginner, and I am currently in the process of building the same model, and so far, I am struggling to hold everything still and not to break them. Unfortunately, though, I have already broken the seat and the structure underneath it, and just those have already riled me up that I just couldn't continue without cursing at myself. So, my question for you is how can I not break the entire structure without cursing at myself?
Well. . . prayer helps. For one, you should be aware that this is a pretty advanced kit, so if you remind yourself of that, it will probably make the screw-ups easier to take. Is it the photo etch that's giving you the trouble?
Cool this has Lothar's plane
I agree, the problem is that you only get to choose one!
Dont beat yourself up about the read stabilizer upside down. Not sure what the instructions look like but I have seen people make that mistake 4 or 5 times lol
Great job on the wing frame shining through. I don't get it: I see so many modelers preshading, only to hide it under the next thick spray ?!
Thank you! It was actually the first time I had tried it. I think I might try a different way in the future though. All that masking was a real pain in the neck!
@@professorbellbuilds Okay, so maybe I enjoy sarcasm a tad too much, but the masking wasn't your prob. You seem to have time enough to mask, film it and edit your vid for YT. So time doesn't seem to be your prob. It makes no sense to preshade, when you're going to cover it under 1 thick spray of paint. Now that's a waste of time ! And paint. Even with an airbrush you can practise subtlety, like say, a thin transparent coat for starters over your preshade, let it settle and check out the effect. Preshade doesn't have to be black either. A darker hue of the overall colour to start with can do wonders.
@@trikkke11 Yes, sarcasm generally doesn't come through in print. I take it then that I did not do a great job on the wing frame shining through?
@@professorbellbuilds Please, professor, honestly: do you see the frame shining through the top layer of paint ? It could be the camera, the light, but I'm guessing there's no frame shining through. And that's not because of your preshade. It's because you hid the preshade cumpletely. What comes after the preshade is just as important. Otherwise it's simply a zero operation. You have not respected your preshade. That's how you lost time. A fine transparent spray would have suggested the light shining through the linen.
And for that matter: it would shine through if it were clear doped fabric, fair enough. But would it shine through after the pilots had their fancy ways with it ?
@@trikkke11 I just checked, and honestly: I do see it shining through the top layer, or rather dimly lurking beneath the surface. It's more pronounced on the underside of the wings, and most pronounced on the underside of the top wing as I had intended. I figured that would let the most light through with the white upper surface. The camera may be hiding the detail since I'm just using my cell phone, but it's definitely there. It could also be that I was going for an effect more subtle than you prefer. The problem with going too light on the paint is you run the risk of letting the plastic shine through in addition to the pre-shading. I think to get the more pronounced effect that you're talking about I would have wanted to first paint ,or prime with white, then add the shading, then give the light mist as you recommend. Though I'm not sure that would technically be preshading. . . what would you call it? Intrashading? Perioshading? That actually might be a good idea, especially if I were to use a dark brown for the preshading as you suggest. I've got a plan for a RAFC plane that I might just give it a go on, especially since one could expect the Egyptian sun to shine through the wings a whole lot more. Anyway, hopefully I can also do a camera upgrade and those ultra fine details will show up better. A buddy of mine offered to let me borrow his camera which is supposed to be of far better quality than my phone.
28:19;
Model show=👍🏻;a good idea,why not!
That farting sound=😳👎🏻;a DEFINITE no-no.Elbow it immediately and NEVER repeat it again.A good career move😉
26:04;in short,it gave you the shits!
try Olive Drab and raw sienna
I might just. The Fokker streaking is kinda weird, but it would be neat to master it. Have you built your share of Dr.1's?
yes i have. but mostly Eduard brand. both 48 and 72 scale@@josephbell4896
27:39;😂The Prof IS funny
I tried this kid like 10 years ago is no way I can do it now because I’m blind as balls, but it is small as F
It is certainly not large! I think the whole thing can fit in the palm of my hand. Which variation did you choose when you built it?
Nice video of your fingers🤣
I have heard they're lovely fingers. I'd considered hand modeling before I cut my thumb. . .
Professor Bell you made a hell of a job !
But your camera ( in the oil painting process ) is a disaster….
Would you please repeat it, at least in a piece of plastic ? 🙏
It’s a favor we appreciate 😊
I could give it a go, but the problem is that right now my camera is my phone. . . I'm not sure the results would be much better. What specifically did you want to see and I'll see if I can get something put together for you. Was it just the oil wash?
the constant close-ups are very irritating.
Thanks for the critique. It's partially due to my being new to filming myself, partially to my being even newer to video editing, and also I'm using the free version of the editing software. Hopefully as I become more competent and when I can one day afford the purchased version I'll improve. If you don't mind can I ask what you mean specifically so I can work on it? Was it that I had too many close ups, or that they were jarring when they appeared, or that I was too close all the time?
To small!
wait until I get into the 1/700 stuff!
Some of the Pilot's of this period where ordered to smear bear grease over their face and up their nose !
Not to use it could result in a Court Marshall.....as it was used to prevent catching a cold.....So any other oil that that got plasterd in wouldn't have made a hell of a lot of difference.....l think you will find it is what incourage a lot of moustache's.....So your runny noise didn't dribble into their mouth !
It's why some evidence of face madk's are known to have been worn !!
I've heard of the bear grease, but I thought it was to prevent frostbite. I do know that the pilots also encouraged the fashion of hair slicked straight back! I've also seen a video of Hermann Goring getting out of his cockpit, and he removes a face mask. It was a fascinating time for flight!