WARNING: this can DESTROY your PCB! 😫 Avoid leaking capacitors with an NBA Jam sound board cap kit 🏀
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
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Episode #97
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Tools & parts used in this video (contains affiliate links)...
- Fluke 117 Digital Multimeter amzn.to/3CKpACT
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- Chemtronics Chem-Wik 10-5L Rosin Desolder Braid/Wick www.digikey.co...
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- NBA Jam Sound PCB Cap Kit www.arcadepart...
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Radial Capacitor Tip: if you are not going to reuse the cap then clip the capacitor pins closest to the body of the capacitor. At that point all you have to worry about is removing pins, which are easier to deal with.
I just came here to make the same suggestion. Also, you don't need to remove the cut pin from the via before using the solder wick.
Thanks - that makes sense for axial caps, but with radial caps there’s often not enough clearance between the base and the PCB to cut the leads.
Sorry, the comment was meant to refer to axials, not radials.
Just a warning to anyone working on William's boards from this era, they hate heat and pads will fall right off if you aren't careful. Keep your temps low and use quick chip low temp solder on the pads first if possible.
Now you tell me!
@@overtimearcade I did say that on discord when we were talking about the desoldering iron last month
You’ve gotta tell people three times before they remember it!
@@overtimearcade I ain't got no time for that! ⌚
Who even wears a watch anymore??
Dad was an engineer for branch of Namco for decades. Now I’m 50 and as retirement is closer I’m dabbling more than ever in repair and restoration of these spectacles. Axial vs radial other than design necessity axial tend not to leak to spare the pcb when temps rise. Never let anyone tell you it just fine with a radial. Unless it’s a new revision
Working as an engineer for Namco sounds like a lot of fun! And thanks for the info on radial vs axial caps... too bad I think a lot of the component manufacturers are phasing out axial caps!
My favorite video in quite a while. Combination of the subject matter… The hosts professionalism… And the in-depth step-by-step. 🏀 👍
Why thank you, kind sir! There’s more where that came from!
Mike recently did cap jobs for my nba jam and mk2. The mk2 hasn’t started to leak, but the nba jam did. His recent posts of leaking caps are from my nba jam. I guess I’m not surprised it had leaked since I bought it back in 07 and it was definitely well routed. My mk2 pcb I’ve had since 2000 and just home use so that probably spared it.
Oh cool! Were they both fully working before being recapped?
@@overtimearcade yes they were working before.
There was a reply to Mike's post with a tip of adding solder and a warning that said that people who don't know what they're doing shouldn't be attempting this due to the traces. It's a pretty good idea to not richard around with these if you aren't aware of what you're getting into. 800 that iron is CRANKING!
It turned out fine in the end. 800°F is what I always set my iron to. I know people who run theirs significantly higher. Some like it HOT!
Mike mentioned upon my question, that the axials did NOT leak, it was bleed over from the radial. Axials don't leak as far as I know.
Good to know! I’m sure any cap *can* leak though, even if it’s more prevalent with radial packages.
They can and do leak.
I notice you do a ton of maintenance on your machines that you probably lose track on whats been done and when. You rven considered putting a service log in each game that you can write the date and whats been done like recaped sound board and such. When i worked on slot machines those come in handy most casinos kept them and it really helps when troubleshooting to see what other techs already done to narrow down finding faults and not just replacing the same parts thats already been done. Found many damaged harnesses this way that looked fine on the surface but had connectors that became loose over time.
Good tip! For me, my TH-cam channel serves as my service logs! 😅
My favorite solder iron is my hakko desoldering iron best investment i made. It makes quick work of most jobs and can get really hot if ever needed. Worth every penny with the time i save on most projects i do.
Yep, I’ve had one for years and have featured it in many videos. I recently started using it only for specialized job, and for cap kits & quick tasks I’ve been using the Chem-Wik solder wick. I just grabbed the cheap junk this time by mistake!
@@overtimearcade yeah the good wicks are awsome.
The Chemtronics stuff in particular is like magic.
Nicely done 👌
Thanks! 🙏
“Delivers the facial!” Gotta love that one!
BOOMSHAKALAKA!!
Typewriter brushes are the best at removing flux. They are static free and made of boar hair.
Thanks - got a link to one you’d recommend?
@@overtimearcade excuse, they are horse hair.
Where do you buy them from? Amazon or somewhere else?
@@overtimearcade I posted a link but youtube deleted it. Amazon doesn't have them, you can get them from torrington brush.
I see you're still teasing us with that galaga in the background.
Prepare to be mightily disappointed! 😂
Ive got a T2 which is a similar sound pcb i think. Will probably do this to mine too. T2 game pcb is not working at the minute so the game is down anyway.
Good call. Looks like T2 uses the A-14732-40009 sound board, which is similar to the MK1 and NBA Jam sound boards, but they’re all a little different.
I am curious, when you are soldering I thought it was best practices to use flux even when you are removing anything from the PCB. Is that true?
AH, I just got to your part of the video where you mentioned not having the Infused Flux Wik. I watch other YT channels where they apply Flux every time they solder. Makes sense now.
If you watch the episode linked below, I’ve recently been using a new (to me, at least) technique for quickly removing old components. It relies on that nice flux-infused wick to clear the old solder out afterwards. But this time I just screwed up royally! 😂
first!,...and im "GREEN"
ANGELINA! Always first in my book!
@@Angelina-bi1ld I don't have enough stuff for sale that would make an auction worthwhile, although I do have some random spare parts listed for sale here: forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/spare-parts-spring-cleaning-sale.535256/