Thank you for the great video, made the install that much easier. Hardest part of the whole process is get 22mm and find the rear jack point. Transform and GripActivated!
Great vid. Would have been nice for you if the machinist who made your adapters had just helicoiled the top adapter to eliminate the need for a nut and washer. Stainless or 7075?
I asked the machinist, and the stock was 303 Stainless. As far as changing the design, yah.... you'd have to reach out to him, or perhaps make some drawings based of whats on the forum. I'm sure anything is possible :)
Overall I would say the car rotates better, and some understeer. The real limit I have are tires, and I'd love to buy a set of cheap Cruze wheels and run real tires... but thats high effort for a car might might show up 1-2 times per season to AutoX. So... overall, I am not sure the investment was worth it? For me, I just like modding my cars so it kept me busy. Clearly this whole swaybar setup is marginal on how it was implemented on the Cruze to begin with. Just my raw opinion on the matter.
I just got a 2022 EV as my daily - was wondering your overall impressions. I’d describe the car as fun but underdamped - it has a suspension for 140 hp and 200 at the wheel. Does this make it feel more solid? I’m leaning towards more roadworthy tires as well despite the range hit. Thanks for doing the video.
The Bolt does not come with a rear sway bar from the factory. This is purely a performance (handling) modification. For those trying to get rid of a bit of understeer in their Bolt.
Swaybars like this always helped reduce understeer on my mk4 VWs with torsion beams; the one for my '05 Passat wagon made it corner perfectly balanced.
This won't last, here's why. You're locking the bar to the coil spring mounts with no play. Bushing always tie a sway bar into place because the rear end moves. Without play the stress on the bar will eventually break the bar at the weakest point - the mounting holes. There have to be bushing between the bar and the car, it's mandatory.
No bushings are used with this style of bar on a torsion beam axle. It's very common with this suspension style. If you did use bushings it would render the bar completely useless. 5+ years with lots of autox and mine still works great.
@@Zac88GT Bushings would not render it useless. Think about what you're saying, bushings have minimal effect on overall movement. An axle moves inches, the bushing moves fractions of an inch. You want that small movement to reduce stresses on the bar at the bolts.
@@mosfet500 you need to do a little more research on this. Every swaybar like this on a torsion beam axle is rigidly mounted and solely supported by the axle. Ideally it would have more than just the one bolt per side, but it's adequate. The intention is to stiffen the existing axle tube which naturally acts as a swaybar. It's does add some unsprung weight, but it's simple and effective. Bushings are used in links for other applications because the bar is actually mounted to the frame and there's relative movement between the bar and mounting points.
@@Zac88GT If you're happy then I'm happy. I would rather not put an aftermarket item on my car and several people have had them break, check the forums. If you know anything about design and forces you would understand that the stress is at the bolt location. Besides, have you thought about what would happen if you got rear ended and the bar got pushed into the battery? Even if it was not the problem juist the fact that it was on there could create problems insurance wise, these guys are constantly looking for a way out of paying you. If it does break and punctures the battery you're out of warranty and your car is toast.
@mosfet500 only one person has had their bar break, and it was also the only person that didn't use the proper solid mounting adapters. I'm well aware of the forces and their locations. Risk of puncture in an accident does not worry me whatsoever, the damage required for that to happen would be catastrophic on it's own.
Thank you for the great video, made the install that much easier. Hardest part of the whole process is get 22mm and find the rear jack point. Transform and GripActivated!
Glad to help, and enjoy performance driving your Bolt :D it's a fun little car to throw around I think.
Such a great help. This video made my install so easy! Many thanks! 🙏
Thanks for the video. I put rear swaybars on my mk4 VWs, and this is the same concept. I'll be putting one of these on my impending' 23 LT2 Bolt euv.
Great vid. Would have been nice for you if the machinist who made your adapters had just helicoiled the top adapter to eliminate the need for a nut and washer. Stainless or 7075?
I asked the machinist, and the stock was 303 Stainless.
As far as changing the design, yah.... you'd have to reach out to him, or perhaps make some drawings based of whats on the forum. I'm sure anything is possible :)
Thanks
Great video. How much of a difference can you feel now compared to before you installed the sway bar?
Overall I would say the car rotates better, and some understeer. The real limit I have are tires, and I'd love to buy a set of cheap Cruze wheels and run real tires... but thats high effort for a car might might show up 1-2 times per season to AutoX.
So... overall, I am not sure the investment was worth it? For me, I just like modding my cars so it kept me busy. Clearly this whole swaybar setup is marginal on how it was implemented on the Cruze to begin with.
Just my raw opinion on the matter.
I just got a 2022 EV as my daily - was wondering your overall impressions. I’d describe the car as fun but underdamped - it has a suspension for 140 hp and 200 at the wheel. Does this make it feel more solid? I’m leaning towards more roadworthy tires as well despite the range hit. Thanks for doing the video.
I would say... the main thing I noticed doing this was reducing the "bounciness" of the rear end this car exhibits.
I wonder if this would be beneficial for light towing with the Bolt.
Potentially, I will say it reduced the "bouncyness" of the rear end of this car quite a bit.
Is this necessary for the bolt? What is the fiction of the bar? Why doesn’t it come standard from factory?
The Bolt does not come with a rear sway bar from the factory. This is purely a performance (handling) modification. For those trying to get rid of a bit of understeer in their Bolt.
Swaybars like this always helped reduce understeer on my mk4 VWs with torsion beams; the one for my '05 Passat wagon made it corner perfectly balanced.
This won't last, here's why. You're locking the bar to the coil spring mounts with no play. Bushing always tie a sway bar into place because the rear end moves. Without play the stress on the bar will eventually break the bar at the weakest point - the mounting holes. There have to be bushing between the bar and the car, it's mandatory.
No bushings are used with this style of bar on a torsion beam axle. It's very common with this suspension style. If you did use bushings it would render the bar completely useless. 5+ years with lots of autox and mine still works great.
@@Zac88GT Bushings would not render it useless. Think about what you're saying, bushings have minimal effect on overall movement. An axle moves inches, the bushing moves fractions of an inch. You want that small movement to reduce stresses on the bar at the bolts.
@@mosfet500 you need to do a little more research on this. Every swaybar like this on a torsion beam axle is rigidly mounted and solely supported by the axle. Ideally it would have more than just the one bolt per side, but it's adequate. The intention is to stiffen the existing axle tube which naturally acts as a swaybar. It's does add some unsprung weight, but it's simple and effective. Bushings are used in links for other applications because the bar is actually mounted to the frame and there's relative movement between the bar and mounting points.
@@Zac88GT If you're happy then I'm happy.
I would rather not put an aftermarket item on my car and several people have had them break, check the forums. If you know anything about design and forces you would understand that the stress is at the bolt location.
Besides, have you thought about what would happen if you got rear ended and the bar got pushed into the battery? Even if it was not the problem juist the fact that it was on there could create problems insurance wise, these guys are constantly looking for a way out of paying you.
If it does break and punctures the battery you're out of warranty and your car is toast.
@mosfet500 only one person has had their bar break, and it was also the only person that didn't use the proper solid mounting adapters. I'm well aware of the forces and their locations. Risk of puncture in an accident does not worry me whatsoever, the damage required for that to happen would be catastrophic on it's own.