He Messed Up When He Built His DIY FENCE This Way...
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ค. 2022
- Today we're reacting to another DIY fence build video. This one is a long build but there are some good and some bad. So in this video, I'll react to this DIY fence build and I'll give my critiques as a professional fence installer. Let's dig into it!
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I'm Joe Everest, The Fence Expert. On this channel, I'm going to teach you everything there is to know about fences. We're going to show you how to build a fence, everything about fence posts, different fence installation methods and much, much more. If you're wanting to become a fence builder, or if you're just trying to build a DIY fence, my channel will help you out. So subscribe and ring the bell icon, that way you don't miss any of my fence videos!
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I'd like to see more videos of you giving explanations while building a fence. I like your reactions but you should post one of you, personally building fences and gates.
You got a lot of companies don't know how to do fence an been doing them for a long time😂😂😂 1 pro fence in Alabama
I like the idea!
Fence in video looks great, worth it if it was any cheaper than paying someone else to do it.
I refuse to pay 10k for a fence when i can get the materials for 4.5k and DIY. These prices are nuts!!
I agree
I paid a guy a down deposit and he ran with my money
If you use post set dry pour method, use the commercial bags that are labeled as post set dry pour
Good to see your comments Joe. Glad that your input was helpful rather than to belittle the guy whose video you commented on. Many of us are very similar DIYers and some of us could not even do what he did. It is good to learn both from his video and your comments on what went right, and what can be done another way to improve it.
I agree, I think that is the part that made this video interesting. It's bad taste to ever bash another contractor or especially someone who claimed it to be DIY. Really awesome that he was able to comment suggestions on what to do different in a positive way.
Hi, I'm a new viewer. After several of your videos, they are interesting. I replaced a chain-link fence with one of these treated wood picket fences about 15 years ago. Around 140' of fence. One thing I did that I haven't seen, I layed the edge of a treated 2X12 on the ground and in most places it's in the ground for a good seal. The bottom of the pickets were attached to the 2X12. We have dogs that will take advantage of a gap. Of course, this was years ago when wood was cheaper and like you said, pickets were $1.63. I used a string to keep the picket level but, like you advised, I didn't touch the string. HOT TIP: To get the cemented metal post out (South Texas former farmland), I got a 4' piece of threaded 3/4" galvanized pipe and 2 1' threaded pieces. I put a "T" on one end of the long piece and a cap on the other. I drilled 3 3/16" holes, splayed out, in the cap. I put the 2 1' pieces on the "T" and caped one end and put a water valve and male hose fitting on the other end of the "T". Using hose water pressure, I could pull an old metal post, with the cement, out in around 45-60 seconds.
What do you recommend for a post to hold the hinge end of a 10' gate? It will be a cheap metal farm gate.
Hmm that' sounds interesting... I had a hell of a job pulling out a broken (rot) 6x6 fir post with a ton of concrete out of a deep hole ...using a jack all and a come along. It was murder... I like your idea better...!
Great video man. As we offer wooden and simple privacy fences at our business. We build them all customs and don’t use pre built anymore since covid so this was very helpful.
Do you use a fence wholesaler to get your materials or do you use a big box store? I just started my fence company and am trying to find a wholesaler vs home depot but not having great luck yet.
@@Rwinnett2012for wood just go to your local lumber yard, for all other fence a simple Google search should at least point you in the right direction.
@@pl9915 I landed with a fence company who does wholesale and they have been amazing. Best move! Better quality, easy to work with and answer any questions I have, no matter how basic.
Better than average DIY . I once saw picket reveal go from 8” to 24” along 100’ fence line. He ran rails level on a sloped line! Dry pack baby!
lol. I'm doing my fence now with post master type posts and I have very uneven ground and slopes, I ran a string from corner to corner and was like wth is this 8 ft tall nonsense, then it hit me to just run a string down and up to the next post with the elevation change and keep the rails and pickets the same height along the fence and it'll come out lookin like it's following the terrain, which is a pretty good look.
Dry is fine for fence definitely people that say otherwise are funny characters 😂 🇨🇦
I've actually thought about doing the fence within a fence too. It's for dogs that like to bolt. Kinda like what you would find at a fenced dog park.
For setting the pickets, a piece of unistrut works great in place of a straight away
Quickly becoming a fan of this very informative and professional channel. Great content, thank you guys!!
Thank you so much! Welcome to the #fencefam!
I used a level for each 6-inch picket, in both directions: across the top, and up and down. I used 3 coated screws per picket.
Recently installed a little over 200 feet of new treated pine privacy fence. Pickets were $1.96 for 5.5"x6' BTW. Yard was fairly even so I used a transit to establish my top rail level around the entire yard, set the bottom rail 6" off the ground, and put the center rail exactly between them. I used a block to maintain a 4" reveal at the top and trimmed the bottoms to follow the ground.
Sounds like a solid fence!
Around here, in the Gulf South region, we don't have to worry about frost lines. We have to worry about water line, or rather water tables. In some areas, you can dig 2 to 3 feet down and be fine, and in other places, you only get 2 inches before the ground is saturated and your holes start to fill up with water. So, dry packing is typically how we do it, because you're going to get enough water in there anyway. But now, the Parish (county) is mandating that we no longer plant the 4x4 posts in the concrete. We are now suppose to pour footings and use the Galvanized Post Base or Post Connectors. They want the concrete to be at least one inch above the dirt/grass line when using the adjustable base with the 1 inch riser, or 2 inches if using the post base with the thin bottom and have a slight crest or angle so that water does not stand. Their ruling has several meaningful reasons; 1. the posts will not be sitting in water and rotting. 2. the posts will not rot at the dirt/grass line and snap off. 3. Should a storm or hurricane break a post, or termites damage the post, it is easier to remove the screws/bolts at the base and replace it. Also we will not have to deal with as much old concrete being thrown into the land fills, and we are using up too much of our land-fills too fast in this area. 4. It will cut down on the amount of new concrete being used/produced etc. The same thing goes for deck footings as well. Pretty much anything wood is not going into the ground any more, unless of course it is a pile that is being pounded down until it hits bedrock, but that's a different story all together.
examples:
www.homedepot.com/s/4x4%2520post%2520base?NCNI-5
www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-ABA-ZMAX-Galvanized-Adjustable-Standoff-Post-Base-for-6x6-Nominal-Lumber-ABA66Z/100375370
Fence looks great, but in time, those pickets will gnarl up on top. I need to replace my fence. I appreciate your videos. When I go to replace mine, it won’t be perfect, but hopefully will be better because you shared your knowledge.
Agreed, always happy to help! Let me know if I can help in any way!
Thank you for breaking down this video. It is incredibly helpful. In reference to the moisture content, I live in a very dry climate but it does snow here. Any additional recommendations on moisture content on the boards before installing such as percent on a moisture meter. Should I leave the lumber sitting on my back porch for a few days to acclimate before installing?
Great video! Looks like you saves me a world of hurt here... seen this guys videos and assumed he was on the level. 😊
Keep up the great content!
I think the fence looks great but I would use metal posts all around instead of wood posts, and rot boards (aka kick boards) on bottom of each section and gates. But that’s just me. If my fence comes out this good I’ll be very happy!
The only thing to add... check underground utilities. Fiber lines cost a lot,
Great point!
Will they charge you if you mess it up?
@@Masticas. Yes. I found out the hard way. Just call 811 and they will mark all underground things to avoid for free.
They can but in my area things need to be downed to code depth. Your area may be different. That's the only way that you can get them to pay for it. If you've already called for locate, always important to call for locate the reason I know this is out of concrete work amongst other things@@Masticas.
I knew a guy who would set post eye level. I always talked S, one day he called me out, I trew a string line. It was on point, maybe one or two off, but only maybe 1/8-1/4 , if that. He would set a post:mark hole with digger and then site them back and forth with the post hole digger. He was an OG too. I learn so much from your videos
Thanks for the knowledge
Sid
Getting ready to build a fence myself. My biggest concern is that, just in a 65' run, I have massive changes in ground heights. I learned a couple things from your reaction of this video, so that helps. In my opinion, you can tell it's a DIY fence, but if mine turns out as well as his, I'll be happy with it.
When I have uneven ground, I run a string at the top. Then I put the pickets in line, but turn them over, so that the dog ears are on the ground, then I use the string to make a mark. I cut about 3/4 inch "above" (towards the dog eared portion) that line in order to give the necessary length so that the boards are not sitting on the ground, and then install the pickets. Hope this is clear enough.
@@jmackinjersey1 Pretty fab idea, I like it and that had not occurred to me. how do you use the string to mark the line? Chalk would be the usual way but you don't mention that. what you describe is a lot of extra work and I can see pros would not opt for your labor intensive method. First off you have to custom cut each picket. That right there is something a pro would avoid. Also you are basically building the fence twice, once upside down, then tear it all down, cut it all, and build it again. Pros can't afford that.
Screws instead of nails hold better overtime and easier to replace if need to also .
Been watching your videos like crazy. I am adding a 10' fence extension to once side of my fence (forward more on the house) with a gate. Went back and forth many times on hiring vs DIY but after so many delays just getting quotes I am hoping to give it a go myself. Fingers crossed- I do woodworking and a familiar with the tools at least but that outside stuff is a whole new ball game. haha - Honestly it will be wrestling the posts (I am 5') that will be my biggest hurdle
Take your time and you should be fine, the trouble a lot of folks get into is that they try and rush through the project.
Time for a follow up...how did it turn out? Did you bite the bullet and build it yourself or decide to hire it out? Hope it turned out great either way!
I also would like to know
This is Awesome! I’m learning a great deal. Thanks!
Very welcome, always happy to help! Thanks for watching!
When i set my fence, and i probably didnt do it correctly, i put the cement out in dry and compacted it every few inches. I let the ground wet the cement. It lasted for years until a hurricane came through and dropped a few trees on it.
I did it this way on some really uneven ground (cabin location):
1. used steel pipe posts and straps. Everything else was wood. ( I did have to rent a drill to make a hole in a giant underground boulder for one of the posts, and that more than justified the choice of steel. Obviously, cemented in ... but it (obviously) doesn't have to be squared up.
2. installed the bottom rail following the average ground contour as much as possible
3. installed the top rail
4. put in the pickets and let the tops run wild (there was quite a hump in one section)
5. installed the top rail
6. cut off the tops so everything was even
Edit: The gate latch was a problem because a normal gate latch didn't have anything to latch to. I settled for a 3/8" pipe within a 3/4" pipe to to pin the gate to the ground. That let me lift the pin from either side to open the gate.
Fences should follow the contour of the ground, the top is irrelevant unless you plan on custom cutting every board.
I been dry packing for years, never had a post fail before its time. Also, when I board, I'll nail about 6 or 8 ot the tops, then come by and nail the bottome and middle rails, saves my back. A 2x6 on top of the post makes a quick guide, but can be quite sketchy, as it may fall on you while you are nailing.
I appreciate you sharing your experience!
I’ve been using Shawn kings dry packing method as of late. Been working really good for us👍
He’s got it figured out!
Have you been doing it without a concrete vibrateor? Been wanting to try it but don't want to invest in equipment I won't use...
@@reb0265 vibrator is total overkill unless you're setting at like 4' deep or something crazy.
Frost line depth, pfft... 18 inch rammed dirt no concrete, flashing tape wrap to prevent rot for a 3ft fence is fine. 6ft fences feel like you're in a shoebox.
I'm in the process of doing a fence for my daughter's house We are doing 250 liner feet. We ran into some know issues - a large pine tree. Being a woodworker I did not want to harm this tree - its about 3 feet in diameter and 125 feet tall and straight as an arrow. Lot of good lumber some day. The other know issue(s) is a 3-4 feet slope from the back yard down to the house over a short distance. Yes towards the house. That's the way they rolled in the 1870's. So from the back corner of the garage to the back of the property line, across the property to the other side of the property line and up to the house there is about a 6 foot change in elevation. Started off with panels but changed to pickets.
I used 3 1/2" coated deck screws on some of the good ole "green" boards on a fence I build a couple years ago warped so hard it actually snapped some of the screws. Never thought of ring shank nails..🤔
I have uneven ground and would really like to have a stone retainer wall to make the actual fence even all of the way around the yard. I think a few loads of dirt to level the yard a little bit where it needs it would really make it so much easier to mow. I have been gathering leaves from a few neighbors to start a compost mound. Have you ever installed a 6 foot wooden or composite privacy fence this way?
You gotta worry about drainage, you don't want to turn your yard into a reservoir by blocking the runoff spots.
I use a string line and never had a problem. I just make sure that at anytime the pickets are not touching the string. Only issue I've had is to be extra careful on windy days because the string line will move. Lastly, when I set up string ling. I make sure to set it up "tight" to avoid any possible sagging if it is set up for a long period of time.
The string line can also sag ever so slightly even if you pull it tight too.
I know 6x6 posts cost more but if the posts are the first thing to fail seems to be the thing to do. We put in 6x6 corner posts for wire field fence. Wanted those puppies to last. Going to be replacing the field fence with pickets over a period of time so we can set the posts one year and finish the rest the next year.
The reveal tip you gave is correct, nothing worse than twisted pickets because you exceed six inches from top of picket to top edge of horizontal.
I've used screws to attach rail to post long enough to hold together until nailing off with ring shanked nails then remove screws for next set of rails
Sounds like a solid process!
I (having lived overseas and talked to some shippers) am pretty sure the issue with import cedar is not weight, but volume. They charge by the container, and since the ship is floating, it's not a huge deal if one container is heavier than another.
That said, having all the containers on a 500 container ship be a couple thousand extra pounds, would limit how many containers it could handle, so maybe it would make it a 460 container ship? Each container also has a max weight, so maybe one stuffed with wet pickets would be over that. Also, traveling through hot areas, it's likely they'd mold, so that may be another factor
In the U.K. the posts would be set 6ft apart with 12ft x 1.5ins x 4ins rails with the mid rail starting with a half length so that the rails dont all join on one post. You are right string lines DO sag no matter how tight they are and pushing the palings up to the string can easily distort the top line.
My fence had a short section at both ends and looks good its a hog wire panel fence so both short panels are numbers that result in the vertical wire lands centered on a post so multiples of 8" in our case
For offense dry set is fine but not for actual footings for a deck or anything structural like that, for the most part is more than enough especially if you're using 42 inch depth of hole which includes an extra 6 in for the stone bottoms 🇨🇦
I always do my top 2x4 flat on top of the 4x4 post with the other two 2x4s cut to the inside and toe nailed into place.
Great video! Well done for DIY!
Agreed!
Posts can last 2x as long as pickets a lot of times in my area because the UV is hell on pickets. But it still can be a gamble compared to replacing the posts.
One Nails down the line and then second nail if you put both Fasteners in the substrate at the same point you can't Flex it to places easy
Did my long backyard fence on my own. Just wanted to knock it out. The first picture you show is similar 😂. After hard work in my business and stressful day. When I see it I just laugh at it. I honestly don't do this with my customers but having slanted fence 🤣. My gf looks at it 🤨🙄😏 in other words fix it.
Anything that may lower my property value is appreciated nowadays😂
love this guy as a fence expert. Have watched quite a few of his videos. Very informative. Just hated him when he was the pittsburgh steelers quarterback. haha
😂😂😂
Hi Joe is it always best and smart to put the post 2 feet deep not one. What is the best way to correct a poor 1 foot post on the entire fence. What can I do.
As a professional in this industry what is your preferred material for fence pickets that provide durability, longevity, resistance to bowing and rot?
In our region the common choices are Treated Pine or Cedar, with cedar being the quality choice. That being said, I’ve heard great things about Redwood!
@@JoeEverest You haven't heard great things about the price of redwood.
@@TheLarryBrown very true, it doesn't make it this far inland so I have no idea how it's priced. That being said, there is often a corollary between price and quality in building materials.
Good Pod.
Question Joe; Living here in Glasgow, Scotland, GB and I am going to be re-doing the fence at the back end of the garden. With us getting such mixed weather, quite a good lot of rain... would it be a good idea to paint say 'bitumen' paint to the bottom say two and a half feet of each post to help prevent water penetration OR would I be better off buying concrete posts ?
I look forward to hearing from your good self as you know loads more about fencing than I do.
Those prices were definitely 1.5 - 2 years ago when it came back down. I remember they were half that before 😷
Is it better to put the 2x4 in front of the post or inside of the post with a brackets?
Hello Joe, I'm about to start building a wood fence myself. Question, do I use screws for the fence or do I buy a nailer and use nails?
PS. Long time, like 2 weeks since I work and not a professional. That said, I'm 62 years old and have replaced all my fences in 3 different houses, they have turned out looking good and they are still up. Although, replacing one currently. I screwed up, some what. In trying to match the rails for my neighbor's side/benefit. The railing ended up more separated than I would have liked. Not real bad, should be fine, but I would have brought them closer. Lesson for next time, if I Ever build one again. Hoping not too, getting to old for this stuff...😂
In most cases yes nails should work. However had to use screws after a professional installed. My 60 lb dog would jump off the fence to try to get higher towards a squirrel in a tree. A little game the dog and squirt played ended up pushing the boards off the posts after a few months.
What is your tip/trick when the ground is tragically uneven from one side to the other…..like a 6”-8” drop-off from driveway onto lawn ?
depends on if you want the stepped look or you follow the terrain. I don't like the stepped look so I just set my posts all at the same height no matter how the terrain looked and set my rails to follow the slope up or down and then keep the pickets at the same height above the top rail and cut if necessary.
🤣🤣”for safety’s sake”
The only way i have ever been that cheap materials wise was if i was using pressure treated lumber.
In those cases i dont warranty the fence for warping. I agree with you on metal post. I insist on them ease of use and i can warranty them to last.
I use e version of the dryset method. I also built alot of pipe fence so water isnt always an option when hour building fence 20 miles from home
2x4x8s are usually 8’ 1/4” so you’d have to cut them all anyway. 7:00
How big of a gap would you leave for the kiln dried pickets? I was debating on vertical vs horizontal fence and staining pine pockets because the cost of cedar and how hard it is to get it
Kiln dried you would actually want to leave a 1/4” or so between the pickets. A lot of the import/kiln dried boards are having issues with swelling and buckling.
What do you recommend in terms of maintenance? Like do you recommend a coating or sealer after it goes up and then if so how often to reapply? Also do you recommend putting the fence in the middle of some sort of dirt zone so it's easier to edge and mow?
Thanks for the video commentary. I work in healthcare and we do the same thing where we watch how others do things and offer useful commentary. You do an even better job where when something should be done differently you are constructive and not snarky but where there's nothing set in stone and it's a matter of personal preference in the method you mention that too!
Staining will maintain the color of the fence, but I don't think much more than that. Just my opinion. I think your best move for maintenance is to make sure the base of your posts are clean. That is, make sure there's not a bunch of debris like leaves or grass up against it keeping the wood wet and making it rot faster.
I found his video insightful as to what my DIY projects might realistically look like.....
What height do you prefer to set your bottom rails?
We like to keep the rails at 6” from each end of the picket and the center rail centered. Great question!
Great show. Thank you!
Very welcome, always happy to help!
Pickets are $1.48 at Lowe’s by me. We are healing 😂
Enjoyed your review !!!!!
Awesome video as usual.
Thanks Michael!
Would you recommend using 17 gauge round steel post for a 7ft wood fence? Or would I have to shorten my distance between posts and add more?
We would have posts spaced at 6’ intervals and use either a 20 weight posts or a postmaster post.
I come to you from the future - 2023😂. I’d love those lumber prices right now! I miss 2020 prices.
My frost line is 8 feet deep :)
If u are right handed u should be nailing up from right to left
Handling the picket with left hand and using gun in right hand
In sydney Australia we sit on solid sandstone and many fences on near the beach are steep and undulated
With many posts core drilled
Into solid rock.
At top dog fencing we use and recommend steel posts
And always nail up using a string line pulled tight with pickets set at every second post to pronounce picket line angle changes
We call pickets on a standard fence, pailings and once they have a gap between them then u can call them pickets
Great points!
he did a good job...all of the mistakes that he did make, are ones we all have done has a beginner.... builders always push the limits
"when shipping from overseas they're dry in a kiln to reduce weight" - I assume there's also a degree of protection from bugs/microorganisms too - sterilization benefits from kiln drying?
Absolutely
I am replacing an old fence. It’s likely going to be terrible getting the old posts out. What are the thoughts on doing 10’ sections? This would save posts and concrete, plus make it easier to avoid the old posts (flush cut the ones that aren’t rotten).
Have you found any info?
I've done 10' sections but I doubled up the 2×4s top and bottom and left a 1/4" gap between the pickets to let the wind through. That's in south eastern New Mexico and it's windy as hell but the ground is hard caliche. I used 4×4 posts in the ground 24". If the ground is soft where your at I'd definitely go with 6×6s and go down 30" or more if there's poor drainage. If you go with 4×4s I'd suggest 6×6s on the corners. Hope this helps.
@@stevesmith2171 perfect, thanks for the help
People that make videos like the guy building the fence have no business making videos. The guy clearly has no idea what he is doing and the way he used that circular saw was extremely dangerous.
Tape measure and level in your pocket at all times.
Agreed, I appreciate the feedback!
Gotta love my 5" frost line.
That would definitely be nice!
What is the ideal measurement off the top from the (2x4) for pickets with a rot board on bottom?
We like a 6” reveal!
Do you wear summer shorts ,t-shirt and tennis shoes for this project? And the the little area fenced off is for your Harley 🏍
You said that you do not recommend reusing wooden posts. Is that the same case for metal posts?
Great tips.
Two things I would do differently is I would not reuse existing 4x4's, helped my dad with his new fence and it failed on the section with reused 4x4's after 5yrs. The other is make a move able jig to keep slates the same height string moves with wind
Agreed on both!
How do you remove fence cut off metal fence posts that was NOT cut below ground?
Tar wood posts and set in dry aggregate or tar in a way to make concrete a mould for the next post when it need replacement.
Or use steel lifetime posts
A third option would be a purpose-made product such as PostSaver.
@@JoeEverest PostSaver ? Is that basically ice and water shield? Seems legit. I have replaced too many treated or cedar posts and took your advice to build with hidden steel posts ( Like the posts on the highway reflectors 😉).
It is, it actually seals to the post itself in addition to the sleeve.
Thanks for your video, Joe. I have a couple of questions for you. I'm going to DIY and replace pickets and rails on a 152 ft section of our fence. We have metal posts mounted in concrete and connected together with a strip footing. The posts are straight and solid. I'm retired and trying to save some money by using pine pickets and rails. If I get treated pine or apply a stain, will they not hold up over time or do I need to bite the bullet and get cedar only? If I follow your picket reveal rule, will that help prevent the pine from warping or is it a waste of money using pine instead of cedar? I'm 76 and if the pine last 10 to 15 years, I'd be happy.
I appreciate any help you can give me.
Gary
The issue isn’t really will it last, the posts are typically what need replaced and you already have that covered. Staining the pickets with a quality oil-based stain will help them to look great for years, in addition to helping to prevent them from warping and twisting!
@@JoeEverest Thanks Joe. I really appreciate your help!
I would’ve put the top stud as high as possible on the 4x4 and raised the pickets higher off the ground .
Man I really enjoy your video Can you make a video showing how to diy a wood jig to Aline the peeks
You bet, I’ll add it to the content board!
Question, when quoting a customer to do a femce, how much do you quote per foot just the installation part?? I am about to finish up a fence for a neighbor who already paid a crew to install a fence just like one in this video, they got all the posts in and then the horizontal 2x4s up and roughky 50 foot of the slats installed then they dipped out on her, so if they did everything that they got done so far correct then ill only be installing the slats, somewhere in the range of 350 feet of it to do, but since she already oaid that forst crew i want to quote her a good price to help her out, any information on how i shoukd quote her would be appreciated, thank you!!!
If she already has purchased and has wood onsite, I'd just do it time and any material (+10%). Guesstimate how many hours you think you can finish in and add 10 more just in case you want to give her a flat #. I hope she didn't pay them in full.
dry pack works good on chin link.
since you are a fence expert im sure that you will use a gauge other then a line to set the height. remember we don't do this for a living ..thanks
Hello !! I like your videos alot!! Want to know what is the tool name that you mention on this video to use instead of the string??
It’s called the Straightaway by MR Fence Tools
Thank you for your response!!🙏
@@gustavocervantes5435 very welcome, always happy to help!
The last fence I did, we eyeballed the blanks, and we drank probably a 30 pack that day, me and my bother in law, and we did a hell of a lot better than that.
We recently paid, 4 dollars a picket for cedar pickets.
Hello is a reveal mandatory . Ya know like the pickets being all the way to top rail . Rather than leaving 6 inches . I want to put a board on top of it all and rail being at tool helps for adhering . Is a reveal mandatory for some reason . Thanks
At top not tool . Typo
the neighbor behind me built a privacy fence, with the unfinished side facing towards me, and the rails are completely crooked and not even close to level.... so they get to look at the pickets of a nice fence, and I have to look at a stupid crooked mess...
Physics tells you couldn't pull that tight enough to get all the SAG out of it
Trick to using the string line is only touch the hairs of the string with the board.
I built a 40" long jig that rides along the top 2x4 then you push the plank up to the jig where it hangs out at 6" above the top rail. Works for slopes as well. I also pre drill my 2x4s and use 3.5" stainless screws. End cut sealer on rails and posts if not getting stained.
Nice, sounds like a very solid process! I appreciate you sharing it!
I use a rubber sealant on the bottom 2 ft of my posts which gets buried in concrete below grade to keep them from prematurely rotting. Do to the poor quality of lumber nowadays your 4x4s inevitably check split after installation which creates paths for water to get in and start rotting out the posts. I flex seal my posts.
I use a rubber sealant on the bottom 2 ft of my posts which gets buried in concrete below grade to keep them from prematurely rotting. Do to the poor quality of lumber nowadays your 4x4s inevitably check split after installation which creates paths for water to get in and start rotting out the posts. I flex seal my posts.
I use a rubber sealant on the bottom 2 ft of my posts which gets buried in concrete below grade to keep them from prematurely rotting. Do to the poor quality of lumber nowadays your 4x4s inevitably check split after installation which creates paths for water to get in and start rotting out the posts. I flex seal my posts.
I use a rubber sealant on the bottom 2 ft of my posts which gets buried in concrete below grade to keep them from prematurely rotting. Do to the poor quality of lumber nowadays your 4x4s inevitably check split after installation which creates paths for water to get in and start rotting out the posts. I flex seal my posts.
I see absolutely nothing wrong with the fence. It is serving it purpose which is to vertically mark property boundaries and obscure view. I have built 4 fences and 3 gates around properties of mine only thing that has ever mattered to me is post depth and vertical straightness.
My Neighbor completed wood fence about 200 feet with post 18" deep after 2 years it started leaning toward my property and on my 4' chain link on my side of property line the sections that leaned over I just pushed them toward his property and they all just fell over post and all. Only about 40 feet of that fence is still standing.
String level doesn't go in the middle of the string line ,it goes on the edge.
I wonder why stuff is so expensive?
(DEMOCRATS) 💸💸💸Bidenomics...Mr Potato Head & his cackling hyena.
This seems to be more of a video of a guy that likes hearing his own voice jab other guys work. I thought we were gonna build a fence?